BuyingTime in 30 Seconds
Bonhams recruits Reg Brack to expand its American watch business, Phillips raises the stakes for online auctions, and Watches of Switzerland brings watches and jewelry together in a new retail format. New releases range from IFL’s colorful Bulova customization to Grönefeld’s elaborate Quadrivium, with gold, guilloché, aviation history and celestial displays competing for attention. Our features consider military heritage, affordable collecting and the practical demands of owning too many mechanical watches. Friday’s Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 reached US$51,000 but missed its US$52,400 reserve. Tonight, an unworn 2025 Harry Winston Midnight Moon Phase in rose gold takes the spotlight with an US$18,445 reserve and a 7:45 p.m. EDT closing time.
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe
What Are We Really Paying For?
Put today’s watches next to one another and the usual explanations for luxury pricing begin to look incomplete. There is a Grönefeld filled with intricate mechanical choreography, an Armin Strom that extends its use of rose gold deep into the movement, a quartz-powered Bulova carrying a pop-art interpretation of Edvard Munch, and a Harry Winston whose appeal rests heavily on diamonds, proportion and decorative craft. Each asks for a different kind of appreciation. Each also asks the buyer to decide what that appreciation is worth.
That is the thread running through today’s issue. We often discuss watches as though there were a single ladder of merit, with better movements, more prestigious names and higher prices carrying us steadily upward. Actual collecting is less orderly. Someone captivated by a hand-finished bridge may have little interest in gemstone setting. Another collector may value a slim case and a beautiful dial more than a complicated mechanism. The useful question is whether we understand what we are buying—and whether the price makes sense for that particular pleasure.
Consider Watches of Switzerland’s expanding interest in jewelry. Its new Watches of Switzerland and Mayors showroom in New Jersey brings the two categories together while preserving their individual identities. That arrangement acknowledges something collectors already practice: a purchase can begin with engineering, aesthetics, a celebration or simply the desire to wear something beautiful. A customer does not necessarily organize those desires according to the industry’s departmental boundaries.
The Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 occupies the intersection particularly well. Its gold is both material and visual language, extending through the case, dial and movement architecture. Hand guilloché adds another reason to look closely. The Grönefeld Quadrivium presents a different argument, bringing constant-force regulation, a flying tourbillon and jumping seconds into a single performance. These are expensive watches with distinct ambitions. Understanding those ambitions is more useful than assuming their prices make them interchangeable.
At the other end of the budget, the affordable-watch roundup shows how much enjoyment remains available below US$600. A watch can offer an engaging design, useful timing functions and a recognizable personality without becoming a major financial event. There is also a quietly persuasive argument in the feature asking whether larger collections make mechanical watches inconvenient. Once a watch box fills up, readiness becomes a feature. Picking up a quartz watch that already tells the correct time can feel wonderfully sensible.
History offers another form of value, provided we distinguish the different ways brands use it. Tudor’s relationship with the Navy SEAL community gives its military associations a tangible setting. The feature on Vario, Timor and Ollech & Wajs asks how faithfully the past should be reproduced. Both stories reward a more precise conversation about heritage: which details came from actual use, which have been adapted, and which are imaginative additions?
The auction business brings all these motivations to a particularly clear test. Reg Brack’s arrival at Bonhams and Phillips’ ambitious New York online sale show how seriously auction houses are competing for collectors’ attention. Meanwhile, Marteau & Co.’s approach to independent watchmaking raises a further question: when a maker’s work succeeds in the resale market, should the maker share in that success?
Friday’s Patek result supplies a smaller but useful lesson. Bidders stopped US$1,400 below reserve. That gap was only about 2.7%, yet it was enough to prevent a sale. Admiration, bidding interest and an agreed transaction are three different things. Tonight’s Harry Winston presents another version of that distinction: an attractive jewelry watch, an unworn description, a respected name—and a reserve that still needs to be judged against available alternatives.
The pleasure of collecting grows when we become more specific about what pleases us. Craftsmanship matters. So do comfort, convenience, personal associations and the willingness to wear the thing after the excitement of buying it has passed. Today’s issue offers plenty of reasons to want another watch. The better opportunity is to understand which reason is yours.
-Michael Wolf
News
Watch Industry Veteran Reg Brack Joins Bonhams
Bonhams has appointed Reg Brack international director of watches for the United States, giving the experienced auction and market specialist responsibility for business development, collector relationships and national growth. Based in New York, Brack brings experience spanning Christie’s, Freeman’s, StockX and The NPD Group, combining traditional auction knowledge with an understanding of digital resale and market data.
An early focus is Bonhams’ December 8 Fine Watches sale, described as the first live watch auction at its New York flagship. With consignments being accepted, the appointment signals a more assertive effort to build the house’s American watch business and compete for important collections.
Phillips Launches Its Most Valuable New York Online Watch Auction
Phillips’ New York Watches team is presenting nearly 90 timepieces in what it describes as its most valuable online auction to date, with bidding continuing through October 9. Highlights include a Voutilainen 28Sport Limited Edition estimated at US$120,000–US$240,000, a Patek Philippe 5270J at US$80,000–US$160,000, and a platinum Rolex Daytona 116506 at US$70,000–US$140,000.
The selection brings independent watchmaking together with established collector favorites, including F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Its breadth also demonstrates how comfortable auction houses have become placing significant watches into online sales, where condition, presentation and specialist relationships remain central to buyer confidence.
Watches of Switzerland and Mayors Share a New Jersey Showroom
The Watches of Switzerland Group has opened a 4,505-square-foot showroom at The Promenade at Sagemore in Marlton, New Jersey, bringing Watches of Switzerland and Mayors Jewelers together under one roof. It is Mayors’ first expansion beyond Florida and Georgia and introduces a format with separate entrances and a connected interior.
The location combines watches from brands including Rolex, Tudor, Omega and Grand Seiko with jewelry from Messika, FOPE and John Hardy. A dedicated Rolex VIP lounge and private consultation spaces support a more personal shopping experience, while the shared setting gives customers a broader reason to visit.
Jewelry Becomes a Bigger Opportunity for Watches of Switzerland
Jewelry represents 13% of Watches of Switzerland Group sales, up from 8.5% in 2020, and the company sees room to expand that share. Its acquisition of Roberto Coin’s North and Central American business and its developing dual-store concept show how the strategy is moving beyond simply adding jewelry cases to watch stores.
Separate storefront identities paired with connected interiors allow the group to serve different shopping occasions while sharing staff and customer traffic. For a retailer closely associated with watches, the opportunity is to deepen relationships with existing customers and attract shoppers whose first interest may be gold, diamonds or a gift.
Features
Tudor Finds a Natural Setting at San Diego’s Navy SEAL Museum
A visit to the new Navy SEAL Museum in San Diego places Tudor’s military history within the experiences of the people who used its watches. Vintage Submariners and the brand’s longstanding relationship with the SEAL community give substance to an association that can otherwise become a familiar line in a product announcement.
The museum’s involvement with retired SEALs brings a personal perspective to that history. The feature also considers Tudor’s continuing connections with military units and the appeal of watches whose reputations were formed through practical service.
September’s Affordable Watches Offer Plenty Below US$600
September’s affordable releases demonstrate how much variety is available without moving into luxury pricing. Timex supplies three of the highlighted options: the US$229 Ironman Adrenaline, the Marlin Neo Classic Chronograph starting at US$279, and the Deepwater Meridian 200 HEV reaching US$499.
Tissot’s US$525 PRX Chronograph Quartz and Citizen’s US$595 Tsuyosa 60 37mm broaden the selection further. Across digital sports watches, quartz chronographs, divers and automatics, the appeal comes from matching useful features with a design the owner will enjoy wearing.
How Much of a Vintage Watch Should a Modern Reinterpretation Preserve?
Vario, Timor and Ollech & Wajs provide three approaches to the same design problem: how to use history without becoming trapped by it. Vario draws from entire eras to create watches that feel historically plausible, while Timor emphasizes the visual fidelity of its military reissues and updates the components behind the familiar appearance.
Ollech & Wajs makes room for both faithful revivals and newly assembled interpretations of its past. The feature argues that consistency matters more than any prescribed ratio of old and new: a brand needs to know which details define its identity and which can evolve.
Does a Bigger Collection Make Mechanical Watches Less Convenient?
Winding and setting a mechanical watch can be part of the pleasure of ownership—until a growing collection turns that ritual into a recurring chore. This feature examines how rotation habits change as more watches compete for wrist time and why quartz and solar models can become increasingly appealing.
Casio, Timex and Citizen illustrate the attraction of a watch that is ready when its owner is. Mechanical favorites from Orient, Seiko and Hamilton retain their charm, but the article makes a useful distinction between enjoying watchmaking and wanting every daily choice to require attention.
Six Discontinued Watches Collectors Would Welcome Back
This selection of missed watches ranges from the original proportions and presentation of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph to the compact, cushion-shaped Heuer Camaro. It also makes the case for the Nodus Trieste, the 36mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five, the Rolex Milgauss and the Seiko SKX family.
What connects them is the feeling that a particular combination of size, character and function disappeared with the reference. The exercise becomes more interesting than a nostalgia list because it asks what a revival would need to preserve—and whether a modern replacement really serves the same purpose.
Bulova’s A-11 JIMMY Connects a Field Watch to Jimmy Stewart’s Wartime Service
Bulova’s A-11 JIMMY revisits the straightforward field-watch design associated with World War II and Jimmy Stewart’s service as a military pilot. The project also connects with the film “JIMMY,” for which period watches from Bulova’s museum helped establish the historical setting.
The modern watch retains a legible black dial, white Arabic numerals and hacking seconds, pairing that familiar appearance with a Miyota 9039 automatic movement, sapphire crystal and modern luminous material. A 37mm case keeps the proportions approachable, while the 42-hour power reserve and 50-meter water resistance support everyday use. The announced price is US$795, with delivery scheduled for October 2026.
New Watches
Prices are in U.S. dollars. Converted figures are approximate and retain the tax basis of the quoted source price; they are not confirmed U.S. retail prices.
Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750: Rose Gold Through and Through
Armin Strom takes the Tribute concept into especially luxurious territory with rose gold extending from the case and dial into the movement’s bridges. Limited to eight pieces, the Tribute³ Au750 measures 38mm across and 9.38mm thick, with the brand’s distinctive off-center display, crown at 2 o’clock and small case lip at 6. Hand-applied guilloché patterns introduce different textures across the dial and movement, giving the restrained format considerable depth.
The manually wound caliber uses a motor-barrel architecture and offers a 100-hour power reserve. A gray nubuck strap and rose-gold buckle complete a watch whose attraction depends as much on close inspection as on its precious-metal construction. Price: approximately US$83,470, converted from CHF69,000.
IFL Watches Gives the Bulova Super Seville a Scream
IFL Watches brings a neon interpretation of Edvard Munch’s “The Scream” to the Bulova Super Seville, transforming the dial into a vivid piece of wearable pop art. The 300-piece edition uses a UV-reactive background and a stylized central figure to create an appearance that changes under black light. Beneath the artwork remains Bulova’s 37.5mm stainless-steel platform, with sapphire crystal and an integrated three-row bracelet.
The high-frequency Precisionist quartz movement supplies the practical foundation, while a date display preserves everyday utility. This is a customization whose main appeal is the contrast between a familiar watch shape and an unmistakably unconventional dial. Price: US$1,190.
Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis Turquoise Edition
Gerald Charles pairs its asymmetric Maestro case with Darkblast-treated grade 5 titanium and a turquoise-gradient dial in this 100-piece edition. The case measures 39mm by 41mm and 9mm thick, while the stated 64-gram weight supports the watch’s emphasis on comfort during active wear. A left-side screw-down crown, luminous hands and markers, and 100-meter water resistance reinforce its sporting intentions.
The Vaucher-produced GCA2001 automatic movement supplies a 50-hour power reserve and enhanced shock resistance. A turquoise Velcro strap with titanium hardware carries the dial color around the wrist, giving the watch a more overtly athletic character. Price: approximately US$22,450 before tax, converted from the quoted €20,000 price.
Grönefeld 1941 Quadrivium Combines Four Mechanical Attractions
The Grönefeld 1941 Quadrivium brings a 7.5-second remontoire, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds and a power-reserve indication into a 40mm case. Its newly developed movement contains 473 components and 49 jewels, with twin concentric barrels supporting a 50-hour running time. The display distributes its mechanisms across the dial while retaining the recognizable contours of the 1941 case.
Two editions of 28 pieces each are offered: the tantalum Première Edition and a Platinum Edition. Frosted dial surfaces, blued hands and carefully finished movement components give collectors plenty to examine beyond the complication list. Prices: approximately US$369,660 in tantalum and US$409,280 in platinum, converted from SGD473,100 and SGD523,800 respectively, including Singapore GST.
Hanhart Officially Connects the 417 ES With Steve McQueen
Hanhart’s 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 formalizes the connection between its chronograph and one of its most recognizable wearers through a collaboration with McQueen’s estate. The 39mm stainless-steel watch retains the compact character of the historic pilot’s chronograph while incorporating a modern hand-wound AMT5100 M movement. Sapphire crystal and 100-meter water resistance make the vintage-inspired design easier to live with today.
Production is limited to 300 pieces, with presentation materials that reference McQueen’s motorcycling history, including a limitation card inspired by his 1964 racing license. The result is intended for collectors who appreciate both the underlying Hanhart design and the personal story attached to it. Price: approximately US$3,244, converted from €2,890 including German VAT.
Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date Celebrates Alebrijes
Mido gives its Multifort TV Big Date a colorful Día de los Muertos interpretation, centering the dial on a calavera surrounded by fantastical Alebrijes creatures. Twelve lacquers and three shades of Super-LumiNova create an elaborate composition that takes on another personality in low light. The 40mm by 39.2mm case preserves the collection’s television-screen shape and provides 100-meter water resistance.
Inside, the automatic Calibre 80 delivers an 80-hour power reserve. Bracelet and strap options extend the styling possibilities, but the richly decorated dial is clearly the centerpiece of this cultural tribute. Price: approximately US$1,485, converted from the quoted £1,125 price.
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Marks 50 Years
Raymond Weil celebrates its 50th anniversary with a 500-piece Millesime Jubilee Chronograph that uses contrasting shades of blue and silver to give its vintage-inspired dial greater depth. A light-blue center, silver-grained hour ring and midnight-blue chronograph registers sit within a 39mm stainless-steel case. The absence of a date display keeps the bi-compax arrangement visually balanced.
The automatic RW5030 movement, based on the Sellita SW510, provides a 56-hour power reserve and can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. A glass-box sapphire crystal and midnight-blue calfskin strap complete the period-influenced presentation. Price: US$4,275.
Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa Celebrates an Aviation Centenary
Sinn’s 103 St Sa Lufthansa translates the airline’s visual identity into a limited run of 100 pilot’s chronographs. Yellow accents stand out against a restrained gray palette, while an engraved rotor and aviation-inspired details give the familiar 103 platform a specific commemorative character. The stainless-steel case measures 41mm across and approximately 17mm thick, retaining the substantial presence associated with this chronograph family.
A Sellita SW500 automatic movement powers the watch, which is supplied with olive-gray textile and black calfskin straps. Availability is expected around early November, giving aviation enthusiasts another distinctive Sinn collaboration to consider. Price: approximately US$3,244, converted from €2,890.
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune Looks to the Sky
Van Cleef & Arpels combines a day-and-night indication with a moon-phase display in a 42mm white-gold watch built around celestial theater. The black Murano aventurine glass dial creates a starry setting, while an on-demand animation rotates the display to reveal the moon’s phase. An automatic movement coordinates the daily and lunar indications, bringing mechanical complexity to a presentation designed to appear effortless.
The decorative work continues on the reverse with an engraved lunar surface, an enameled Earth and miniature painted planets. A black alligator strap and white-gold folding buckle complete the formal appearance of a watch intended to reward both technical curiosity and an appreciation for miniature art. Price: US$153,000.
Brellum Pandial 43 Power Reserve LE Chronometer Goes Black
Brellum limits its black-dial Pandial 43 Power Reserve LE Chronometer to 33 pieces, combining a busy instrument-style display with individually certified chronometer performance. The 43mm stainless-steel case houses the Valjoux 7750-based BR-750RM movement, offering chronograph timing, a date display and a power-reserve indicator. A tachymeter bezel and telemeter scale add to the watch’s traditional timing-tool character.
The movement provides a 46-hour reserve and is visible through a sapphire caseback, while 100-meter water resistance and a five-row steel bracelet support regular wear. At 15.9mm thick, this is a substantial chronograph whose attraction lies in its specification, finishing and very small production run. Price: approximately US$3,792 at the CHF3,135 export price, before applicable import charges and taxes; approximately US$4,101 at the CHF3,390 Swiss price.
Comparisons
Ianos Amfivios Versus Doxa Sub 300 Ti5
Two titanium dive watches approach the same assignment with different identities. The Ianos Amfivios emphasizes a utilitarian finish, distinctive dial architecture and the personality of a young Greek brand, while the Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 draws on established diving-watch history and a more familiar visual vocabulary.
The comparison considers the differences between grade 2 and grade 5 titanium, finishing, date placement and overall balance. The reviewer ultimately favors the Doxa’s execution, while acknowledging that the Ianos offers an appealing alternative for collectors drawn to less conventional designs.
Five Ceramic Watches for Collectors Who Dislike Scratches
Ceramic’s resistance to everyday scratching has made it an attractive case material across a wide range of prices and design styles. This guide brings together the Earthen & Co Summit MKII, Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince, Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold, and Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic.
The selection ranges from an accessible US$899 offering to ambitious high-end watchmaking. Beyond the material itself, the useful comparison concerns how each brand balances case size, movement, finishing and visual identity; scratch resistance is only one part of what makes a watch satisfying to own.
GMT Watches With Their Own Identity
A practical travel watch does not have to follow the visual formula of a Rolex GMT-Master II. This roundup explores alternatives from Seiko, Nodus, Jack Mason, Farer, Monta, Rado and Nomos, covering field-watch styling, distinctive bezel treatments and world-time displays.
The variety extends to how the watches operate, including independently adjustable local-hour hands, conventional GMT indications and city-ring systems. For buyers, the useful starting point is how they travel and read the time; the best-looking dial is more satisfying when its adjustment method also fits the owner’s routine.
Reviews
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar brings substantial calendar information into a case measuring 39mm across and 9.2mm thick. The automatic caliber 868 contains 332 components and delivers a 70-hour power reserve, while the dial coordinates day, date, month, year and moon-phase indications.
Steel and pink-gold versions pair their respective dial treatments with integrated three-row bracelets. The review focuses on the balance between complication and wearability, examining whether the finishing, proportions and bracelet execution make this a watch that can move comfortably beyond occasional formal use.
The Cartier Roadster Returns With Its Personality Intact
The Roadster’s appeal has always depended on the way Cartier combines automotive references with its own design vocabulary. The tonneau-shaped case, prominent crown and distinctive date magnifier give the watch an immediately recognizable silhouette, and the revived collection returns that identity to the contemporary sports-watch conversation.
Medium and large sizes, measuring 34.9mm and 38mm respectively, are offered across steel, two-tone and gold configurations. Automatic movements, 100-meter water resistance and prices starting at US$10,200 place the renewed Roadster firmly in the luxury category, with its success likely to depend on how effectively that distinctive shape translates to the wrist.
L. Leroy Vox Temporis Makes Sound Part of the Experience
The L. Leroy Vox Temporis combines a minute repeater and flying tourbillon with an unconventional time display in a 43mm officer-style case. A rotating dial passes beneath a fixed pointer, asking the owner to engage with time differently while the repeater offers an audible alternative.
The manually wound L601SQR movement contains 321 components and runs for more than 90 hours. Offered in titanium, red gold and platinum within a 15-piece edition, the watch also provides an opportunity to compare how case materials influence the character of a striking mechanism; the review particularly favors titanium’s acoustic performance.
Albishorn Type X-Graph Gives Imaginary Vintage a Technical Edge
Albishorn’s Type X-Graph imagines a historical watch that never existed, then builds that idea with a thoroughly modern specification. Its translucent anthracite dial reveals elements of the manually wound ALB04 M chronograph movement, while the unusual register positions and red pusher establish a strong visual identity.
The 39mm case houses a COSC-certified movement with a 65-hour power reserve, and water resistance reaches 100 meters. Limited to 99 pieces, the Type X-Graph invites close attention to its design decisions as well as its mechanics, making it especially relevant to readers interested in where heritage inspiration ends and original design begins.
Abinger Phantom Luna Packs Tool-Watch Capability Into Modest Dimensions
The Abinger Phantom Luna pairs a dark, tactical appearance with dimensions that should accommodate a wide range of wrists. Its 38.5mm case measures 10.8mm thick and 45mm from lug to lug, while the specification includes 200-meter water resistance, sapphire crystal and a 120-click unidirectional bezel.
A Miyota 9039 automatic movement supplies a 42-hour power reserve, and an FKM rubber strap keeps the presentation practical. The review considers whether the luminous treatment, compact proportions and UK assembly make the Phantom Luna a persuasive choice in the crowded affordable tool-watch category.
Dennison ALD Elements Brings Stone-Dial Glamour to Everyday Wear
Dennison’s ALD Elements combines lapis lazuli, onyx, tiger’s eye and amazonite in a mosaic dial whose natural variations make each example different. The cushion-shaped case measures 33.5mm by 37mm and only 6.05mm thick, giving the watch a distinctly slim, jewelry-like presence.
A Swiss Ronda 1062 quartz movement makes that profile possible, while steel and yellow-gold PVD versions offer different expressions of the same 1970s-inspired design. The bark-textured mesh bracelet adds another layer of surface interest, reinforcing the watch’s appeal as an object of color, texture and proportion.
Casio’s Sapphire MR-G Takes the G-Shock Square Into Rare Territory
The G-Shock MR-G MRGD5000 applies sapphire construction to one of watchmaking’s most familiar digital silhouettes. A titanium inner case supports the architecture, while a blue-toned display, gold accents and a rubber strap give the transparent exterior a distinctly luxurious presentation.
Only 20 pieces are planned, including six for the United States, with deliveries scheduled between December 2026 and June 2027. At US$80,000, this is an exploration of materials and collectibility at the far edge of the G-Shock range, retaining digital functions and 200-meter water resistance while asking how far the original square can travel.
Podcasts
Celebrity Watch Shopping With Tom Cruise — A Podcast About Watches
This episode uses Tom Cruise’s watch choices as the starting point for a conversation about celebrity taste and its influence on collecting. The broader attraction is the relationship between a recognizable public personality and the watches audiences come to associate with that person. Available as a video podcast, it offers a lighter counterpoint to today’s discussions of specifications, auction estimates and retail strategy.
Videos
Gallet’s Relaunch Explained — Time+Tide Watches
Time+Tide examines Gallet’s return within Breitling’s developing House of Brands and the role of more accessible tool watches in that strategy. The discussion considers how a historic name can establish a useful position today through product design, pricing and a clearly communicated identity. It is a timely companion to the issue’s broader questions about heritage and what buyers expect to receive for their money.
Inside Artisans de Genève With Founder John Isaac — Rob the American
A workshop visit offers a closer look at Artisans de Genève and the detailed work involved in personalizing luxury watches. The focus is on the relationship between an owner’s preferences and the craftspeople translating those preferences into a finished object. For viewers interested in customization, the appeal is seeing the process and understanding how far an individual commission can depart from the starting watch.
Is Panerai Listening? Smaller Luminors and Better Prices — IDGuy
IDGuy considers whether Panerai’s latest Luminor direction responds to collectors who want more manageable proportions and stronger value. The discussion examines how much a brand can adjust size and pricing while retaining the design features that make its watches recognizable. It is particularly relevant for enthusiasts who admire Panerai’s appearance but have found previous models difficult to wear.
A “Perfect” Watch That Few People Know — Chisholm Hunter
Chisholm Hunter makes the case for an overlooked watch, focusing on the details that can make a less familiar model especially rewarding. The presentation invites viewers to look beyond the references that dominate online conversation and consider how design, execution and personal preference come together. Its central question is one many collectors recognize: how much does widespread recognition contribute to our enjoyment?
Did Tim Mosso Still Love His Grail Watch One Year Later?
The pursuit of a grail watch receives plenty of attention; the experience of owning it can be more revealing. This video revisits Tim Mosso’s feelings after a year, considering whether the watch continues to deliver the satisfaction that made it so desirable. It is a useful reminder that the most meaningful review may begin after the acquisition story ends.
Rolex Surprises and Tudor Revivals — Britt Pearce
Britt Pearce reviews September’s watch news, including developments at Rolex and Tudor’s return to a cult-favorite design. The appeal lies in considering individual releases as part of a broader conversation about what collectors want from familiar brands. Expect an enthusiast’s perspective on the mix of surprise, nostalgia and expectation surrounding major launches.
The Swiss Watch Industry and the Counterfeit Problem — Andrew Morgan Watches
Andrew Morgan examines counterfeit watches and the challenge they present to brands, dealers and buyers. The subject extends beyond visual imitation to the trust required for a healthy secondary market. The video offers an opinion-led look at why authenticity remains central to the ownership experience, especially as buying increasingly takes place at a distance.
What It Takes to Acquire a Patek Philippe in 2026 — Zero to Sixty
This discussion looks at the practical challenges surrounding a Patek Philippe purchase, from availability and dealer relationships to the alternatives offered by the secondary market. It considers how patience, preparation and a clear budget influence the experience. For collectors contemplating a first purchase, the useful distinction is between wanting the brand and identifying a particular watch worth pursuing.
A Free Rolex at TPT — TimePieceTrading
TimePieceTrading builds this episode around the surprise of a Rolex giveaway and the reaction it produces. It offers a glimpse of the personality-driven side of watch retail and the way memorable moments become content. Alongside today’s more technical viewing, this is a look at watches as entertainment and shared experience.
The Downfall of Watch Flipping — Jenni Elle
Jenni Elle offers a critical perspective on watch flipping and the expectations that formed around easy profits, particularly in the Rolex market. The discussion is relevant to collectors sorting out the difference between buying a watch to enjoy and buying one because they expect someone else to pay more. It also raises questions about access, pricing and the effect speculative behavior has on the wider hobby.
Is This Rolex’s Most Iconic Daytona? — Subdial
Subdial’s Drop #297 uses a Daytona as the starting point for a discussion of recognizable design and enduring collector appeal. The presentation considers what makes a particular version stand out within a model family that already carries considerable cultural weight. It is an opportunity to look past the Daytona name and pay attention to the specific details that shape preference.
Xavier de Roquemaurel Explains Czapek’s GWD26 Releases — Deployant
Czapek’s Xavier de Roquemaurel discusses the brand’s GWD26 releases, offering context for their design and technical choices. Hearing the thinking behind a collection can help connect specifications with the experience the maker intends to create. The video should particularly interest viewers following independent brands and the development of a recognizable house style.
Why Rolex Does Not Chase Every Sale — Casual Watch Reviews
An ex-Rolex manager’s perspective informs this discussion of exclusivity, customer expectations and the way the brand’s retail experience is perceived. The video considers why immediate availability is only one part of the relationship between Rolex and prospective buyers. Its value is as a viewpoint on the system, rather than a promise that any particular purchasing strategy will produce a watch.
US$4,000 for a Submariner? — Watch Hospital NYC
Watch Hospital NYC raises a price question certain to catch collectors’ attention: what does a US$4,000 Submariner proposition actually involve? The discussion invites viewers to consider how the identity and circumstances of a particular watch affect the meaning of its headline price. It is another reminder that an appealing number is the beginning of an evaluation.
Auctions
Vintage Finds: Lucien Piccard, Mappin & Webb, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre
This selection explores the more approachable side of vintage collecting through a Lucien Piccard telephone watch, a Mappin & Webb dress watch, an Omega Admiralty and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner. The attraction lies in distinctive designs and overlooked references that can provide considerable character without the budgets associated with headline auction lots.
Condition, originality and accompanying material remain essential to the comparison. The feature combines individual finds with a broader reminder that good vintage buying depends on understanding the particular example, especially when unfamiliar references make quick price comparisons difficult.
Marteau & Co.’s The Encore Puts Independent Watchmaking Center Stage
Marteau & Co.’s largest auction to date runs online from October 8 through October 16, bringing together 40 watches across established independent names and emerging makers. Among the highlights is a complete set of F.P. Journe’s limited-edition 38mm stainless-steel watches, created to mark the end of the brand’s 38mm production.
The sale also expands the house’s roster with makers including Marco Lang, Sylvain Pinaud, Yosuke Sekiguchi, Ondřej Berkus and Reuben Schoots. Beyond the selection, Marteau’s distinctive proposition is to give participating independent watchmakers a share when their work resells, adapting an idea associated with artists’ resale rights to the watch market.
Auction Results
Patek Philippe’s Green-Dial 5905/1A Stops US$1,400 Short
Friday, October 2’s auction of the 2024 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph, reference 5905/1A-001, reached a high bid of US$51,000 but did not meet the US$52,400 reserve. The stainless-steel, green-dial watch therefore remained unsold.
The final bid was US$1,400, or approximately 2.7%, below the seller’s minimum. That is a relatively narrow gap, but it remains a failed sale rather than a completed US$51,000 transaction. The result shows where bidding stopped on this example; it does not establish a sale price for the reference.
Auction Report
Diamonds After Dark: Harry Winston’s Midnight Moon Phase Faces the Price Test
Tonight’s auction presents a 2025 Harry Winston Midnight Moon Phase 39, reference MIDQMP39RR002, in 18-karat rose gold with a diamond-set case and rosé-champagne dial. Located in the United States, the watch is offered with its box and papers and described as unworn, with the dial, case, bezel and band rated excellent; the listing allows for slight handling marks. The reserve is US$18,445, and bidding is scheduled to close at 7:45 p.m. EDT tonight, Monday, October 5, 2026. Its appeal is immediately apparent: warm gold, restrained proportions and a decorative lunar display from a house whose identity was built around exceptional jewelry.
Harry Winston’s New York business dates to 1932, while its first watch collection, Premier, arrived in 1989. The Midnight collection carries that jewelry heritage into a classical round-watch format, and this model expresses it through a circular guilloché wave motif and 161 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 1.12 carats. The 39mm case is 8.6mm thick, giving it a relatively slim profile. The HW5201 quartz movement provides hours, minutes, date and moon phase, and the standard configuration includes a taupe alligator strap with a rose-gold buckle. Its luxury proposition rests on design, materials and gem-setting, with quartz providing straightforward operation.
The strongest directly comparable price found is a public dealer asking price of US$17,650 for this exact reference, also described as a 2025 unworn watch with box and papers. That is an advertised price, not a confirmed transaction, and the matching description could represent the same watch offered through another channel rather than an independent comparable. Even so, it is a meaningful alternative to investigate: tonight’s reserve is US$18,445. The dealer also quotes an approximate MSRP of US$27,900, putting the reserve about 33.9% below that figure, although an advertised MSRP is less useful for assessing resale value than an available like-for-like offering.
For a buyer who wants a refined gold-and-diamond watch with an expressive dial, the Midnight Moon Phase has a clear attraction. The reserve nevertheless requires scrutiny because the exact-reference advertised alternative sits below it. Condition, availability, warranty coverage and final acquisition cost could explain a difference, but those details should support the price rather than be assumed. Tonight’s auction will test whether a bidder values this particular example enough to meet the seller’s minimum; the watch’s beauty is evident, while the strength of the deal depends on the terms.
Current bid: $3,200
Losing Time
Today’s Big Losers at Auction on Grailzee
Four watches, four failed sales, and four reminders that an asking price is a wish until someone agrees to pay it. The shortfalls below are measured against each seller’s ask.
The 2018 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40MM Silver Dial on Oysterflex (116519LN) carried a $45,000 asking price but attracted a final bid of $30,000. That’s a $15,000 shortfall, or 33.3% below ask. The seller and bidder were only one-third of the price apart—a relatively intimate disagreement by the standards of this group. The Daytona had the smallest percentage gap, though “closest to selling” still didn’t produce a sale.
The 2020 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38MM Grey Dial on Steel (26315ST.OO.1256ST.02) asked $45,275 and drew a high bid of $23,000, finishing $22,275 short, or 49.2% below ask. You have to admire the precision of that $45,275 valuation. Unfortunately, bidders disagreed with substantially more than the last $275.
The 2021 Rolex Day-Date 36MM Champagne Dial in Rose Gold on a President Bracelet (118235F) sought $50,000 but received a $21,400 bid. That left a $28,600 gap, or 57.2% below ask. The President bracelet brought the title; the bidding declined to approve the budget. Buyers offered less than half of what the seller wanted.
The 2023 Patek Philippe World Time “Tokyo Edition” Limited 40MM Purple Dial on Leather (5330G) delivered the biggest disconnect: a $105,000 ask against a $35,000 high bid. That’s $70,000 short, or 66.7% below ask. A watch capable of tracking world time apparently couldn’t get seller and bidder into the same pricing time zone.
Together, the sellers wanted $245,275, while final bids totaled $109,400—55.4% below the combined asking prices. These weren’t near misses awaiting a modest concession. Three of the four needed roughly half or more knocked off their asks to meet the bidding.
The conclusion: prestigious names and limited editions didn’t persuade these bidders to fund the sellers’ expectations. These results alone don’t establish fair market values or prove a broader market slump, but they do show a substantial pricing disconnect at these auctions. Aspirational pricing had an excellent showing. Actual transactions, less so.
Closing Time
Today’s watches offer very different reasons to look twice: a beautifully finished movement, a familiar design brought back to life, a dial made from natural stone, or diamonds arranged around a miniature moon. The pleasure comes from discovering which details continue to matter after the first impression.
Thank you for spending part of your day with BuyingTime. Enjoy the watches already in your rotation, approach the next one with curiosity, and we’ll be back tomorrow with more of the stories that make this world worth following.