BuyingTime in 30 Seconds
Watchmaking’s borders keep expanding. FHH and GIA are joining forces on education, while Watches and Wonders prepares to welcome more brands in 2027. Chinese makers challenge familiar assumptions, and Jeff Koons explains the thinking behind his Hublot collaboration. Eight new releases range from Blancpain’s miniature Lady B to stone-dial Nivadas, a Gulf-inspired Studio Underd0g, and Ressence’s moving maze. Our comparisons explore affordable collecting and the Bulova–Hamilton field-watch rivalry. Yesterday’s Vacheron Saltarello reached $45,500 without selling; today’s diamond-set Roger Dubuis takes the spotlight ahead of Sunday’s auction close. Plus: two podcasts, seven videos, and a closer look at the difference between having a recognizable name and having something distinctive to say.
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe
A Watch Needs A Point Of View
The watch industry has no shortage of products. What it occasionally lacks is a convincing explanation of why another one needs to exist. A different dial color can be attractive. A longer power reserve can be useful. Another anniversary can provide an excuse for a party. But the watches that hold our attention usually offer something more coherent: a recognizable point of view that connects their appearance, mechanics, history, and intended audience.
Today’s issue is full of different answers to that challenge. Consider Blancpain’s miniature Lady B. In a market accustomed to treating mechanical seriousness as something measured in millimeters across the wrist, Blancpain is making a statement through smallness. The dimensions are part of the idea. So is the automatic movement inside. The appeal depends on the relationship between jewelry, engineering, and the Ladybird’s history—not on whether this is the most versatile watch you could buy for the money.
At another scale entirely, Jeff Koons’s collaboration with Hublot takes a familiar artistic language and asks whether it can remain persuasive when transferred to the wrist. A Balloon Dog is recognizable almost immediately. That gives the collaboration attention before anyone has examined the movement or tried on the watch. The more interesting question comes afterward: does the translation reward a closer look? Successful collaborations need that second encounter. Recognition gets somebody through the door; execution gives them a reason to stay.
Ressence’s Type 9 with Jules Wittock approaches the same problem from a different direction. Here, the artwork changes because the watch is running. The moving display participates in the composition, turning timekeeping into part of the artistic experience. That is a particularly satisfying connection between form and function. The watch’s identity comes from something it does as well as something it resembles.
Personality does not require a gallery pedigree, either. Studio Underd0g’s Chan3ad collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi finds its subject in a Gulf fish and the meal associated with it. That could have become a novelty dial with a strained explanation. Instead, the supplied details connect color, numerals, chronograph hands, and strap material to a specific cultural reference. It is playful, but there is thought behind the joke. Collectors can usually tell when a story has shaped a design and when it has been attached afterward.
The broader industry is becoming more interesting for similar reasons. The feature on seven Chinese watch brands challenges the habit of treating an entire country’s output as a single category. CIGA Design, Memorigin, Shanghai Watch, and the other makers discussed have different ambitions and different visual languages. Looking at them individually is more useful than deciding in advance what “Chinese watchmaking” is supposed to mean. Curiosity becomes especially rewarding when it leads us beyond the brands we already know how to pronounce.
The expansion of Watches and Wonders makes that question of identity more pressing. A larger exhibition offers more discovery, but it also creates more competition for attention. A brand needs to communicate what makes it worth remembering after the visitor has walked past another dozen displays. Meanwhile, the FHH–GIA educational partnership could help give both professionals and collectors a better vocabulary for evaluating what they see.
That brings us to Thomas J. Sandrin’s conversation on SUPERLATIVE. Brand identity, trust, and informed choice are practical concerns. They influence which claims we believe, which retailers we return to, and which watches continue to interest us after the launch coverage has disappeared.
Price still gets a vote, of course. Yesterday’s Vacheron Saltarello attracted a $45,500 bid and remained unsold. Today’s Roger Dubuis offers gold, diamonds, and an exposed mechanical landscape, but its auction outcome will depend on what buyers are prepared to pay. Distinctiveness can make a watch desirable without making every asking price reasonable.
My preference is for watches that know what they are trying to be. That can mean a modest field watch, an elegant Grand Seiko, a tiny Blancpain, or an extravagant skeletonized Excalibur. Learn the specifications and understand the price. Then ask whether the object has enough character to remain interesting once the announcement, the anniversary, and the argument have passed.
-Michael Wolf
News
FHH Teams With GIA’s School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts
The Fondation Haute Horlogerie is partnering with GIA’s School of Gemology and Jewelry Arts to broaden access to watch and jewelry education. The collaboration brings together FHH’s horological expertise and GIA’s international educational infrastructure, with plans for training, certifications, and resources that connect two closely related disciplines.
The initiative is intended to reach industry professionals as well as collectors and enthusiasts, including through the FHH Academy’s Watch Advisor certification. Online and in-person learning, supported by multilingual resources, could make specialist knowledge accessible to a wider audience. For retailers in particular, understanding both the movement inside a watch and the stones surrounding it is a useful combination.
Watches And Wonders 2027 Adds More Names To The Conversation
Watches and Wonders 2027 is set to expand to 75 brands, with ten newcomers including Berneron and Porsche Design. Scheduled for April 5–11 at Geneva’s Palexpo, the event will place a broader mix of independent and established watchmakers alongside familiar anchors such as Rolex, Cartier, and Patek Philippe.
The expanded roster promises more opportunities to compare different approaches to contemporary watchmaking in one place. Berneron’s presence adds another independent voice, while Porsche Design brings its industrial design perspective to the exhibition. Activities beyond the halls, including the “In The City” program, will extend the week’s watch conversation into Geneva itself.
Feature
Seven Chinese Watch Brands Worth Getting To Know
Chinese watchmaking encompasses far more than a single price bracket or design philosophy. This feature introduces CIGA Design, No Identity, Memorigin, OLTO-8, Bodberry, Aision, and Shanghai Watch, showing how differently these makers approach the wrist. The range stretches from CIGA Design’s globe-inspired Blue Planet to Memorigin’s tourbillon focus and Aision’s use of Hong Kong street-sign typography.
Other approaches include experimental displays, durable tool-watch construction, playful artistic references, and the reinterpretation of an established domestic heritage. Together, the seven brands offer a useful invitation to judge individual watches on their design and execution. Collectors willing to look beyond familiar geographic assumptions will find a much more varied conversation than the label “Made in China” often suggests.
Jeff Koons On Turning Hublot Watches Into Wearable Sculpture
Jeff Koons’s Hublot collaboration begins with one of contemporary art’s most recognizable forms: the Balloon Dog. In this conversation, the artist discusses translating its inflated shapes and sense of volume into the much smaller dimensions of a watch. The development process required attention to how the dial, hands, crown, and surrounding case work together as a sculptural object.
The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog collection offers red, blue, and silver interpretations, each limited to 200 pieces and priced at $25,000. The more elaborate MP-14 Origin moves into a different technical and financial category, combining a central tourbillon with a blue sapphire dome in a 20-piece edition priced at $488,000. Koons’s comments provide context for both, exploring curiosity, authenticity, and the experience of interacting with art rather than simply recognizing an artist’s signature.
New Watches
Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years Of Ladybird With The Mini Lady B
Blancpain’s new Lady B revisits the Ladybird story through a remarkably compact watch measuring 19mm by 13.2mm. Available in polished stainless steel or 18-karat red gold, it pairs a simple hours-and-minutes display with the manufacture’s automatic caliber 615 and a 38-hour power reserve. A double-wrap calfskin strap passes through the case, creating a distinctive silhouette without conventional projecting lugs.
The design draws inspiration from the 1956 Ladybird “Bullet,” placing miniature mechanical watchmaking at the center of its appeal. With 30 meters of water resistance and proportions closer to a piece of jewelry than a contemporary sports watch, the Lady B has a clearly defined purpose. Price: US$12,600 in stainless steel or US$19,200 in red gold.
Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A Khaki Field Mechanical
Hamilton’s latest Call of Duty collaboration gives the Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm a black PVD-coated steel case and a heavily textured black dial. Super-LumiNova X2 markings support legibility, while the khaki-green textile strap maintains the familiar field-watch character. Inside is the hand-wound H-50 movement, with an 80-hour power reserve.
The Modern Warfare connection appears in a sound-wave graphic engraved on the caseback and the watch’s association with Captain John Price. The result gives gaming enthusiasts a recognizable collectible while retaining the straightforward layout that has made the Khaki Field a durable part of Hamilton’s identity. Price: US$795.
Kurono Tokyo Dresses Its Calendrier In Saxe Blue
Kurono Tokyo’s Calendrier Small Batch Release combines a Saxe-blue dial with vertically embossed detailing, recessed calendar subdials, and applied chrome Arabic numerals. The 38mm stainless-steel case surrounds a triple-calendar display, with day and month indications complemented by a date window at six o’clock. A Miyota 9122 automatic movement supplies approximately 40 hours of power reserve, and the watch is rated to 50 meters of water resistance.
The polished case, box-shaped sapphire crystal, and black calfskin strap give the piece a dressy presentation without excessive dimensions. Online sales begin September 24 at 23:00 JST, with a free Kurono account required and purchases limited to one per customer; the production total has not been disclosed. Price: US$2,389, excluding VAT.
Christopher Ward Brings Mechanical Timing Back To The Sealander
The C63 Sealander Chronograph marks Christopher Ward’s return to mechanical chronographs with a 41mm stainless-steel case and a Sellita SW510-1 automatic movement. The movement offers a stated 56-hour power reserve, while the case provides 100 meters of water resistance. A matte black ceramic tachymeter bezel and recessed subdials establish a familiar sporting layout.
Several dial colors broaden the choice, with luminous indexes and contrasting chronograph details helping distinguish the timing functions. Buyers can select a curved-end rubber strap or the steel Bader iLink bracelet, which includes adjustment without tools. Price: US$2,625 on rubber or US$2,765 on the Bader bracelet.
Nivada Grenchen Marks Its Centenary With Seven Stone-Dial F77 Models
Nivada Grenchen’s F77 MKII 100 Years Collection gives its compact sports-watch design seven different natural-stone personalities. Labradorite, jade, azurite, shungite black, smoky quartz, black opal, and Ice Agate join the collection, with the last limited to 100 examples. Natural variation means the dial itself becomes an important part of choosing an individual watch.
The familiar 38mm stainless-steel case is paired with a new La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement offering a 68-hour power reserve. A sapphire display back reveals the movement, while the collection’s September 24 launch offers bracelet and strap configurations. Price: US$1,590 on Velcro or rubber, or US$1,790 on a bracelet.
Studio Underd0g And Ahmed Seddiqi Take The 03SERIES Fishing
The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi 03SERIES Chan3ad draws its inspiration from the Gulf’s kingfish, translating the subject into a blue-grey gradient dial with a pale pink center. Eastern Arabic numerals appear on the tachymeter scale, while yellow chronograph-hand tips reference the lemon served alongside the fish. Even the black salmon-leather strap contributes to the theme.
Beneath the playful presentation is a hand-wound Sellita SW510-M monopusher chronograph movement with a 63-hour power reserve. The steel case measures 38.5mm across and 13.6mm thick, with 50 meters of water resistance. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch is offered exclusively through Ahmed Seddiqi boutiques, with an optional Milanese bracelet also available. Price: approximately US$2,615, converted from AED9,600.
Grand Seiko’s SBGW325 Revisits An Early Manual-Winding Milestone
Grand Seiko’s Elegance SBGW325 pays tribute to the SBGW003, the first manual-winding model in the 9S family, introduced in 2001. Its polished 37.3mm steel case frames a deep navy dial with raised silver-colored Arabic numerals, faceted Dauphine hands, and a contrasting gold-toned seconds hand. The combination gives the watch a distinct identity within Grand Seiko’s dress-watch range.
The modern caliber 9S64 provides a 72-hour power reserve and a stated accuracy standard of +5/−3 seconds per day. Two straps accompany the watch: hand-dyed blue crocodile and light grey cow leather, both equipped with quick-release spring bars. Limited to 600 pieces, the SBGW325 is scheduled for an October release through Grand Seiko boutiques. Price: US$5,800.
Ressence And Jules Wittock Put A Maze In Motion
Ressence’s Type 9 collaboration with Belgian artist Jules Wittock places an engraved maze on the watch’s rotating display. As the orbital time indications move, the relationship between the lines changes, making the artwork part of the watch’s operation. The design is offered in emerald-green and black versions, with luminous hands and indexes supporting nighttime legibility.
The grade 5 titanium case measures 39mm across and 11mm thick, and the watch weighs 42 grams. A customized ETA 2892 base movement powers the ROCS 9 display module, providing a 36-hour reserve beneath the crownless exterior. Production is limited to 30 pieces per color, with the maze designed to reveal a hidden message when the display aligns at midnight. Price: approximately US$24,300, excluding tax, converted from CHF20,000.
Comparisons
The Watches Under $750 That Keep Earning Wrist Time
This guide examines affordable watches that have proved their worth through repeated wear. The selection spans familiar names such as Casio, Citizen, Seiko, Timex, and Hamilton alongside smaller makers, offering a broad view of what a budget below $750 can buy.
The useful distinctions go beyond movement type and water-resistance figures. Comfort, dial legibility, luminous performance, strap options, and finishing all influence whether a watch becomes a regular companion. By focusing on those details and acknowledging compromises, the guide offers a practical way to approach affordable collecting without assuming that a lower price requires lower expectations.
Bulova A-11 Jimmy Versus Hamilton Khaki Field: Two Routes To Military Style
Bulova’s A-11 Jimmy brings military-watch history into a modern 37mm automatic package. A matte black dial, white Arabic numerals, luminous hands, beige nylon strap, and double-domed sapphire crystal establish its character. The Miyota 9039 movement supplies a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch carries a 50-meter water-resistance rating.
At $795, the Bulova sits $70 above the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 250 considered in this comparison. Hamilton counters with an 80-hour hand-wound movement and 100 meters of water resistance, while using an acrylic crystal. The choice depends on which combination matters more to the buyer: automatic winding and sapphire, or longer running time and greater water resistance in a manually wound field watch.
Review
Chopard Brings Back The Original Men’s Happy Diamonds Spirit
Chopard’s Happy Diamonds Heritage revisits the men’s watch that introduced the concept in 1976. The defining attraction remains the freely moving diamonds, held in gold settings between sapphire crystals so that movement on the wrist animates the display. Black onyx and yellow gold provide a strong visual backdrop for the stones.
The 34mm cushion-shaped model uses an in-house manually wound movement visible through a caseback window, while a smaller 24mm version uses quartz. Priced at $48,400 and $24,000 respectively, the watches occupy the intersection of fine jewelry and watchmaking. Their appeal rests on a distinctive form of motion: the wearer’s gestures become part of the performance.
Hands-On With Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4
The supplied hands-on review describes an Apple Watch generation focused on refinement, expanded material choices, and more detailed daily health information. Series 12 and Ultra 4 retain familiar overall forms while adding the S11 chip and updated sensing capabilities. Ceramic Series 12 options in Pearl White and Night Blue introduce another premium choice, with prices starting at $899 for 42mm and $949 for 46mm.
The review reports roughly 50 hours of battery life for Ultra 4, alongside faster charging and a Readiness score that brings together movement, sleep, and other measurements. New finishes and band combinations broaden personalization, while additional audio and software functions aim to make the watch more useful throughout the day. The article’s central question is how much these accumulated improvements change the experience of wearing an Apple Watch.
Podcast
Scottish Watches #815: Rolex, AP, Tudor, Moser, IWC, And More
Scottish Watches works through a busy stretch of releases from some of the industry’s most closely followed names. The episode ranges across Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, H. Moser & Cie., and IWC, giving listeners an opportunity to hear the announcements discussed together rather than as isolated launches.
The conversation also touches on Circula and the enthusiast events that help connect brands, retailers, and collectors. For listeners trying to keep up with the volume of recent watch news, the episode offers a broad survey with the show’s familiar conversational approach.
SUPERLATIVE: Thomas J. Sandrin On What Gives A Watch Brand Its Identity
Ariel Adams welcomes WatchDNA founder Thomas J. Sandrin for a conversation about how collectors discover brands and decide whom to trust. Sandrin draws on his experience with the Swatch Group and Hamilton to explain the thinking behind a platform intended to make brand histories, personalities, and differences easier to understand.
The discussion examines the changing role of retailers, the influence of social media, and the difficulty of separating informed expertise from confident presentation. It also considers why seeing a watch in person and building relationships remain valuable even when research begins online. The episode is particularly relevant to anyone wondering how a brand can stand out in an increasingly crowded market.
Video
Christopher Ward Keeps Getting Accused. Here’s Why — Doug’s Watches
Doug’s Watches examines the recurring criticism surrounding Christopher Ward and the way such arguments influence perceptions of a growing brand. The subject raises broader questions about reputation, consumer expectations, and how watch enthusiasts evaluate a company’s decisions. Treat this as commentary on the debate, with the strength of individual claims left for viewers to assess.
Don’t Sleep On Franck Muller — Subdial, Drop #294
Subdial turns its attention to Franck Muller in its latest numbered drop, inviting viewers to reconsider a name that can sit outside today’s most predictable collecting conversations. The presentation offers a chance to look closely at the watches and judge their appeal on their own terms. It is a useful prompt to revisit a brand whose distinctive identity remains part of its attraction.
I Know What Omega Is Releasing Next—It’s Huge — Chisholm Hunter
Chisholm Hunter looks ahead to what may be coming from Omega, building its discussion around anticipation for the brand’s next move. The appeal is the preview and the argument behind it, rather than treating the headline itself as confirmation of an announcement. For Omega followers, it offers another perspective to consider as the release conversation develops.
Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models — Fratello
Fratello shares a selection of favorite vintage Rolex watches, bringing personal taste into a category often dominated by reference numbers and pricing. The presentation invites viewers to consider how proportions, dial details, and historical character contribute to a watch’s lasting appeal. It is also a reminder that enthusiasm for vintage Rolex can begin with an individual design rather than a market ranking.
Rolex Diamond Watches: From Subtle To Stunning
This video explores diamond-set Rolex watches across the Daytona, Day-Date, and GMT-Master II families. The range illustrates how gemstone decoration can alter the character of otherwise familiar designs, from restrained accents to a much more conspicuous presentation. Viewers interested in the overlap between sports watches and jewelry will find several different expressions of that idea.
The Rolex Padellone Problems No One Is Talking About — One Man Reviews
One Man Reviews takes a critical approach to the Rolex Padellone conversation, focusing on concerns that the presenter believes deserve more attention. The video offers a counterpoint to enthusiastic coverage and invites viewers to assess the reasoning behind the criticism. As with any strongly framed review, its value lies in the specific arguments rather than the force of the headline.
The Tudor North Flag Deserved Better — Walking With Watches
Walking With Watches revisits the Tudor North Flag and makes the case for giving it another look. The subject is Tudor’s distinctive watch—not the regional flag mistakenly described in the supplied summary. This retrospective invites collectors to reconsider a model whose individual character may be easier to appreciate outside the pressure of a launch cycle.
Auction Results
Vacheron Constantin Saltarello Reaches $45,500—And Stays With The Seller
The September 17 auction of the yellow-gold Vacheron Constantin Saltarello Jump Hour, reference 43040/000J, ended with a high bid of $45,500. That figure did not meet the reserve, so the watch remained unsold.
The supplied auction report notes that similar models have sold for at least $55,000. Against that benchmark, the final bid was $9,500 lower, a gap of approximately 17.3%. Differences in condition, completeness, and the terms of prior sales matter when making comparisons, but the immediate result is straightforward: yesterday’s bidders and seller did not arrive at the same number.
Auction Report
Gold, Diamonds, And A Reality Check: Roger Dubuis’s Excalibur Takes The Stage
Today’s featured auction brings a 2026 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier, reference RDDBEX0953, into the spotlight. The 42mm rose-gold watch combines a skeletonized display with a factory diamond-set bezel, giving its visible mechanics an equally conspicuous frame. The USA-based example is described as unworn and includes its box, papers, and hangtags. The listing rates the dial, case, bezel, and bracelet or strap category as excellent, while allowing for the possibility of minor handling marks.
Roger Dubuis established his namesake manufacture in 1995, and the Excalibur collection arrived in 2005, becoming a defining vehicle for the brand’s increasingly architectural approach to watchmaking. Its fluted bezel, distinctive triple lugs, and exposed movement construction make it recognizable at a distance. This reference carries that identity into a diamond-set execution while retaining the Poinçon de Genève certification associated with its hand-finished mechanics. The example’s 2026 date should be understood as the listed year of the watch, rather than the beginning of the Excalibur story.
Inside is the automatic RD720SQ, a micro-rotor movement running at 4Hz with a 72-hour power reserve. The open construction makes the mechanism part of the visual experience, rather than something reserved for occasional inspection through a caseback. Roger Dubuis specifies 100 meters of water resistance and a quick-release strap system, adding practical features to an intentionally extravagant design. The bezel’s 60 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 1.08 carats, reinforce the presentation without obscuring the skeletonized movement.
For a concrete pricing reference, an advertised 2026 unworn example of the same RDDBEX0953, with box and papers, was listed by Prestige Time at US$42,500 when checked. That is an asking price, not a confirmed sale or an independently established auction value, but it gives bidders a useful comparison when considering the total cost of this lot. A defensible winning price will depend on the reserve, applicable fees, warranty position, and the availability of comparable watches—not simply the original retail positioning. The auction ends at 12:55 p.m. EDT on Sunday, September 20, 2026.
Current bid: $750
Losing Time
Today’s Big Losers at Auction on Grailzee
Four failed sales. Four Audemars Piguets. Apparently, tonight’s most exclusive AP complication was finding a buyer willing to agree with the seller.
The 2024 Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm with blue dial and steel bracelet carried a $39,250 ask, but bidding stopped at $19,450—a $19,800 shortfall, or 50.4% below asking. The seller wanted nearly forty grand. The room barely offered twenty. That’s less a negotiation than two people having entirely different conversations.
The 2024 Code 11.59 Chronograph 41mm with green dial and textile strap performed “best,” which deserves quotation marks large enough to see from Le Brassus. Against a $38,000 ask, its $25,300 high bid fell $12,700 short, or 33.4% below asking. In tonight’s AP lineup, attracting two-thirds of your asking price qualified as a relative triumph.
The 2013 Jules Audemars 39mm with black dial and leather strap faced the harshest verdict. Its $20,500 ask met an $8,000 bid, leaving a $12,500 gap—61.0% below asking. A prestigious name on the dial apparently did very little to persuade bidders that the seller’s valuation belonged in the same room.
Then came the Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Limited Edition 44mm, asking $34,000 and attracting a $17,000 high bid. That’s a $17,000 miss, or exactly 50.0% below asking. Limited edition, meet limited enthusiasm. For something called the Grand Prix, it only made it halfway to the finish line.
Combined, the four sellers sought $131,750. The highest bids totaled $69,750, leaving a $62,000 gap—47.1% below the combined asking prices. Three of the four watches failed to attract even 51% of their asks. That is a pretty emphatic rejection of the prices on offer.
Is AP’s secondary market crashing? Four unsuccessful auctions cannot establish that, and a bid below asking is not proof that a watch’s market value has fallen by the same percentage. Asking prices express sellers’ hopes; bids reveal what this particular room was prepared to pay. None of these watches sold, so these are failed price negotiations, not completed transactions establishing new market lows.
Still, the value proposition deserves scrutiny. These results suggest that the AP name alone couldn’t support the premiums these sellers expected. They also span two Offshores, a Code 11.59 and a Jules Audemars—not the entire AP catalog, and certainly not a representative test of the core Royal Oak market.
Last night’s defensible conclusion is that seller expectations were dramatically ahead of bidder appetite. Whether that reflects inflated asks, a thin auction audience or broader market weakness requires more evidence. But if you’re selling one of these references, “it’s an AP” may need a stronger supporting argument. Preferably one priced somewhere near the buyers.
Closing Time
The best part of a varied watch world is that your next discovery does not have to resemble your last one. This weekend, give an unfamiliar maker a closer look, revisit a design you once dismissed, or spend a little more time with a watch you already own. And if the Roger Dubuis has your attention, remember that bidding ends Sunday at 12:55 p.m. EDT.
Thank you for spending part of your day with BuyingTime. Enjoy the weekend—and wear something that makes checking the time worthwhile. See you Monday.