BuyingTime - September 20, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
[Time Graphing today’s Watch Universe] By the Buying Time Team
Big government may be back, but in this horological universe, it’s Trump’s tariff policies that are really setting the tone. Patek Philippe has raised prices in the U.S. by 15%—again—making it the second hike in six months, thanks to newly intensified tariffs that now average a whopping 41% on Swiss watches. The gold Cubitus is now practically a diplomatic weapon. American buyers are eyeing Europe for better prices, collectors are panicking over value erosion, and retail partners are quietly pouring scotch into their coffee. Not to be outdone, Omega and Cartier are also nudging prices up, with the Moonwatch Professional headed to $9,000 and the Snoopy edition pushing $11,900. And in a rare move of horological humor, Swatch has launched a limited edition with the numbers 3 and 9 reversed—a cheeky nod to the 39% tariff rate. It’s available only in Switzerland and expected to disappear faster than a MoonSwatch drop.
While the price drama plays out, IWC has decided now is a good time to get into the vintage game—on their own terms. “IWC. Curated.” is their new program offering boutique-only access to restored historical pieces, authenticated and serviced by in-house specialists. If that sounds like vintage collecting with training wheels, well, that’s probably the point. Meanwhile, former Audemars Piguet boss François-Henri Bennahmias is back in action, launching “The Honorable Merchants Group,” a venture dedicated to ethical luxury and social impact, including—but not limited to—high-end watches and Swiss-made electric bikes. Because of course he is.
Patek Philippe is also facing some internal tension—not just from prices, but from questions of succession. Thierry Stern’s eventual successor will need to walk the line between technical mastery and brand strategy, with the ideal candidate likely coming from within the ranks of its master watchmakers, assuming they don’t choose someone with a marketing degree and a TikTok account.
The Emmys red carpet brought a brief but brilliant parade of watch flexing. Coleman Domingo sported an Omega Speedmaster, Tramell Tillman brought out his Audemars Piguet, and Noah Wyle proved once again that the Cartier Tank Américaine never goes out of style. Meanwhile, the internet is collectively swooning over a vintage Omega Constellation worn by Conrad Fisher in The Summer I Turned Pretty—a throwback piece with leather strap that has Gen Z questioning if maybe their dad’s old watch drawer is worth raiding.
Design trends are tilting thin again. The watch world, once obsessed with case girth, is now going back to slim elegance. Thin dress watches are having a moment, and while slim chronographs remain a bit chunky due to movement architecture, the pressure is on to streamline even the most complicated calibers. Swatch, for its part, continues to punch above its weight with the automated Sistem51 and limited-edition hits, proving that mechanical innovation and mainstream pricing aren’t mutually exclusive.
On the new release front, Breguet celebrated its 250th anniversary with a moon-phase beast called the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, priced at over $100K and filled with enough enamel to tile a small kitchen. Zenith, meanwhile, teamed up with Swiss furniture company USM to release a Defy Chronograph with dial colors matching modular cabinets, housed in a custom watch-storage chest. Because why shouldn’t your desk and your watch be color-coordinated? Other standouts include the all-black Octo Finissimo from Bulgari, the bright purple Opus from Chronoswiss, and Timex’s new $500 Marlin Jet Chronograph “Panda,” which might give Tudor collectors a mid-tier existential crisis.
Independent brands are thriving too. Akhor’s debut features a floating dial powered by a hand-wound, in-house caliber. Aera paid tribute to the SAS’s dusty-pink Land Rovers with a military-themed field watch. BA111OD brought Swiss moonphases down to an entry-level price point. And Stollenwurm decided twelve mythologically inspired watches made from platinum and tantalum was a perfectly reasonable first collection.
This week’s reviews show that high-end still means high drama. Greubel Forsey’s latest limited edition, the Balancier Contemporain Final Edition, weighs in at 220,000 Swiss francs and 256 meticulously hand-finished components. The Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde “Golden Hour” and “Dune” pair rose gold and platinum with gold dials inspired by Le Corbusier’s color theory, for when you want your architecture with a power reserve. The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 was hailed as the “ultimate dive watch” by a very nostalgic reviewer who may or may not have cried writing it. And the Oris New York Harbor LE II kept it cool with mother-of-pearl and oysters. Yes, literal oysters—the watch supports the Billion Oyster Project.
If you’ve been wondering what happens when a vintage watch loses its patina and you’re not emotionally prepared to accept it, AIS Collective has your back. The new BronzePen lets you reset and refresh the aging process on your bronze-cased watch. Think of it as Botox for tool watches.
For those who prefer to listen rather than read, the Worn & Wound podcast explored the idea of the “One Watch Collection,” an idea that’s offensive to anyone with more than one watch roll. And designer-turned-watchmaker Sylvain Berneron shared his refreshingly old-school business philosophy: build what you want, make it limited, and politely tell big investors to go pound sand.
And finally, mark your calendars—Dubai Watch Week is coming back this November with more than 90 brands, enough boutique drops to make your wallet cry, and just enough horological hot takes to make you feel like you need a fourth moonphase.
So yes, between tariffs, titanium, trolls, and tourbillons, it’s been a full week in the watch world. See you next weekend—assuming you haven’t sold your house to buy that new Patek.
- Michael Wolf
[Time News]
Patek Philippe hikes prices as Trump’s tariffs bite
Patek Philippe has raised prices by approximately 15% in the U.S. due to President Trump's tariffs, which now impose an average of 41% on Swiss watches. This price increase is the second in six months, affecting both retail partners and clients. The price of a gold Cubitus has risen significantly, leading to concerns that American consumers may seek better deals abroad, particularly in Europe where prices remain lower. Rising prices are causing anxiety among collectors and enthusiasts, with a survey indicating significant concern over value erosion. Read more
Omega and Cartier tweak prices to cover Trump's tariffs
Omega and Cartier are adjusting prices due to Trump's tariffs, with Swatch Group limiting increases to 6-10% and retail partners accepting lower margins. Omega's Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional will rise from $8,400 to $9,000, while the Snoopy edition will increase to $11,900. Cartier is expected to announce a price rise soon, and other brands like Patek Philippe have already raised prices by 15%. Read more
IWC Introduces IWC. Curated
IWC Schaffhausen has launched "IWC. Curated.", a program offering expertly restored vintage watches, allowing collectors to acquire significant historical pieces with authenticity certification. The program aims to meet the growing demand for vintage watches by providing direct access to carefully selected models, restored by specialists using original components. Initially available in select boutiques in Switzerland, the UK, Dubai, and Japan, the collection includes notable models like the Ingenieur SL and Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Read more
Swatch mocks Trump’s 39% tariffs on Switzerland with a special edition watch
Swatch has released a limited edition watch with reversed numbers three and nine, mocking the 39% tariffs imposed by President Trump on Swiss imports. Priced at 139 Swiss francs, the watch is available only in Switzerland and aims to raise awareness about the tariffs. Swatch plans to stop selling the watch once the tariffs are reduced, and it has reportedly seen high demand despite being a short-lived product. fastcompany.com
Former Audemars Piguet supremo François-Henri Bennahmias unveils ethical luxury watch and collectibles incubator
François-Henri Bennahmias has launched The Honorable Merchants Group, a venture focused on ethical luxury across various sectors, including watches and fashion. The group emphasizes integrity and long-term value, aiming to align profit with purpose. Initial investments include a Swiss electric bike company and a high-end collectibles management business. Bennahmias invites entrepreneurs to pitch ideas for potential support and investment, aiming to foster socially responsible innovation and growth. Read More
Former Audemars Piguet CEO Bennahmias Returns To Lead New Luxury Group: There Will Be Watches - Read more
ArtyA Geneva Purity Wavy HMS Mirror at WatchTime New York 2025
ArtyA has launched the Purity Wavy HMS Mirror, a limited edition titanium watch featuring the world's first one-way mirror caseback and the in-house Stairway to Heaven caliber. Limited to 99 pieces, it showcases an innovative design with a 40mm titanium case, water resistance up to 50 meters, and a unique openworked dial. Priced at CHF 25,900, it will be presented at WatchTime New York 2025, highlighting ArtyA's commitment to unconventional designs and technical excellence. WatchTime.com
Boris Becker Swapped Swiss Watches For Casio When He Was Jailed In 2022
Boris Becker, the German tennis legend, details his experience in prison for hiding assets in his upcoming autobiography. He describes the harsh reality of incarceration, including his decision to swap his expensive Swiss watches for a cheap Casio to avoid drawing attention. Once a wealthy athlete, Becker faced significant financial struggles, leading to the sale of parts of his watch collection during his divorce. His memoir, Inside, is set to be released on September 25, 2025. Read more
[Feature Time]
Luxury Brand Succession Challenges: How Would Patek Philippe Choose A New Leader?
Patek Philippe faces significant challenges in leadership succession due to its reliance on strong, singular leadership in a competitive luxury watch market. The transition from one leader to another is complex, often influenced by internal politics and the need for continuity in brand identity. Thierry Stern, the current leader, may struggle with the decision to promote from within or hire externally, as both options carry risks. The brand's future may benefit from selecting a leader from its experienced watchmakers, ensuring a deep understanding of its heritage and production values, rather than relying solely on marketing or sales expertise. ablogtowatch.com
The 13 Best Watches at the Emmys, From Noah Wyle’s Cartier to Tramell Tillman’s Audemars Piguet
This year's Emmys showcased stunning timepieces on the red carpet, with notable mentions including Coleman Domingo's Omega Speedmaster, Noah Wyle's Cartier Tank Américaine, and Tramell Tillman's Audemars Piguet. The event highlighted various luxury watches worn by celebrities, reflecting both style and significance in the context of their achievements at the awards. robbreport.com
Thin Is In! — The Return Of Slim Watches Across (Almost) All Categories
The trend of slim watches is resurging, with manufacturers responding to consumer demand for thinner designs across various categories. While the popularity of larger watches led to increased thickness, there is now a shift back to vintage-inspired proportions. Slim watches are not only aesthetically pleasing but also more ergonomic. However, challenges remain in creating slim chronographs due to the bulkiness of their movements. The article advocates for the development of slim chronograph calibers to further enhance the variety of slim watches available. fratellowatches.com
Thank you, Robert Redford – from all the right-wrist watch wearers out there
Robert Redford, a talented actor and director, is remembered for his influence on left-handed watch wearers, particularly for popularizing the Rolex Submariner on his right wrist. His choice of watch reflected his non-conformist style and versatility, as he wore it in several films, showcasing its suitability for various roles. Redford's personal connection to his watches added depth to his characters, making them integral to his on-screen persona. Read More
What do John Mayer and Daytona have in common? Answer: Rolex watches
John Mayer's association with the Rolex Daytona watch has significantly increased its demand and market value, particularly the rare 2016 model known as the "John Mayer." The watch's popularity surged after Mayer referred to it as a "sleeper hit" in a 2019 interview. The Daytona has a rich history linked to auto racing, dating back to the 1930s, and is awarded to winners of the Rolex 24 at Daytona race. Mayer's watch collection is estimated to be worth over $31 million. Read More
How to Collect Neo-Vintage Watches (Ben, Watch Brothers London)
Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London discusses his journey as a dealer of neo-vintage watches, focusing on models from the 1980s to 2000s, including Patek Philippe 3940. The conversation highlights the differences in collecting neo-vintage watches compared to other eras, and offers insights into the watch market. Listeners can follow the podcast for future episodes and support its creation through subscriptions. unpolishedwatches.com
The internet is obsessed with this watch from The Summer I Turned Pretty...
Fans of The Summer I Turned Pretty are captivated by a vintage leather-strapped Omega Constellation watch worn by the character Conrad Fisher. The watch's understated elegance resonates with viewers, sparking discussions on social media about its significance and desirability. Experts highlight its classic design and the resurgence of leather straps in fashion, attributing its popularity to a blend of nostalgia and romance. Read More
12 new wearable smartwatches for winter 2025
Twelve new wearable smartwatches for winter 2025 include the technologically advanced Apple Watch Ultra 3, Suunto Vertical with solar charging and GPS, Withings ScanWatch Nova for heart health monitoring, Samsung Galaxy Watch8 Ultra with AI capabilities, and unique options like Timestop D-20 for tabletop gaming. Other notable models are the rugged Coros Nomad, Nixon Base Tide Pro for surfers, and the fitness-focused Polar Loop without a screen, catering to various user needs and preferences. Read More
Why Are Watches So Expensive? The Real Reasons Behind Luxury Timepiece Prices
Luxury watches are expensive due to exceptional craftsmanship, premium materials, innovative technology, and brand heritage. The meticulous hand-assembly of movements, use of precious metals and gemstones, and advanced complications contribute to their high prices. Limited availability and the prestige of renowned brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe further enhance their desirability and value, making them sought-after investments for collectors and enthusiasts. Read More
Andersen’s mechanical tales
Svend Andersen, a prominent figure in independent watchmaking, trained in Denmark and gained fame with his Bottle Clock in 1969. He founded Andersen Genève in 1980, focusing on bespoke luxury watches. Known for innovations like worldtimers and a secular perpetual calendar, Andersen has mentored many future watchmakers. The brand recently celebrated its 45th anniversary with the Communication 45, showcasing craftsmanship and in-house production, while maintaining a low output of around 50 watches per year, emphasizing direct relationships with collectors. europastar.com
Deep Inside the Creative System of Swatch
Swatch's innovative Sistem51 movement, introduced in 2013, revolutionizes watchmaking with its fully automated assembly and 90-hour power reserve. The company continues to expand its mechanical offerings, driven by successful collaborations like the MoonSwatch and Scuba Fifty Fathoms. CEO Alain Villard emphasizes the importance of creativity and sustainability in their strategy, aiming to surprise customers while maintaining high quality. Swatch's recent growth reflects its ability to meet evolving consumer expectations and adapt to market demands. watchtime.com
Vacheron Constantin’s Bonkers New Automaton Clock Tells the Time on Earth and Across the Stars
Vacheron Constantin has unveiled a unique automaton clock that tells time on Earth and across the solar system, featuring an automaton called "the Astronomer" that performs 144 gestures to indicate time and celestial movements. The clock, named La Quête du Temps, took seven years to develop and includes a new movement with 15 patent applications. Additionally, a limited edition of 20 watches inspired by the clock will be available, showcasing intricate designs and advanced timekeeping features. robbreport.com
News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection
Florian Brossard is the new CEO of Schwarz Etienne, leading the brand's evolution with the introduction of the 1902 collection, inspired by its founding year. The collection features models like the Petite Seconde and Réserve de Marche, showcasing in-house movements and a blend of traditional and modern design elements. The watches are crafted from Grade 5 titanium, offering a lightweight yet refined aesthetic suitable for everyday wear. Prices start at CHF 18,500 for the Petite Seconde and CHF 19,500 for the Réserve de Marche, with more models planned for the future. fratellowatches.com
What Watch Collectors Really Want Right Now
The CollectorSphere Intelligence Report 2025 highlights the importance of collector feedback in the luxury watch industry, revealing insights from over 200 collectors. Key findings include a desire for brands to understand their clients better, dissatisfaction with unjustified price increases, and a shift in interest towards independent watchmakers. The report also identifies top brands for 2025 and discusses the significance of personal stories behind watches, emphasizing the need for a more human approach in marketing. robbreport.com
[Watching Trends]
Several key trends in watch innovations
Slim watches are making a comeback across categories. Brands are finally listening to wrists tired of hockey-puck cases, though chronographs still need to shed some weight. Expect more vintage-inspired proportions ahead.
Color is everywhere—bold dials, textured finishes, and unusual materials like titanium, bronze, and even meteorite. Watches are becoming wearable statements, not just tools or status symbols.
Independent brands are thriving. From Akhor’s floating dials to Aera’s dusty pink field watch, small makers are leading in innovation and storytelling, while big brands chase “authenticity” with curated vintage and heritage throwbacks.
Smartwatches still dominate mass sales, but mechanicals are winning hearts. Gen Z buyers want emotion, story, and permanence—plus a growing interest in sustainability. Solar power, recycled materials, and long-lasting mechanics are all part of the pitch now.
In short: thinner, weirder, more ethical, more expressive. And thanks to tariffs—definitely more expensive.
[The Latest Time]
Aera
Aera M-1 Dune: A Dusty Pink Tribute to SAS ‘Pink Panther’ Land Rovers
Aera has launched the M‑1 Dune, a limited edition watch inspired by the dusty pink Land Rovers used by the SAS in the late 1960s. It features a unique dusty‑pink dial, a durable 904L stainless steel case, and a manual‑winding Sellita SW216‑1 movement with a 42‑hour power reserve. Designed for functionality and style, it includes 100 m water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, and luminous hands for visibility in low light. Limited to 300 pieces, it honors military history while offering a modern field‑watch aesthetic. Read More
Akhor
Akhor: “All or nothing”
Akhor, a new independent Geneva watchmaker, debuts “Le Temps en Équilibre,” a collection with a patented dual‑disc design that creates a floating‑dial illusion. It is powered by the in‑house, hand‑wound AK10 calibre, developed for precision and to support future complications. The cushion‑shaped case is crafted with high‑quality materials, water‑resistant to 30 m, and offered in steel, gold, and a diamond‑set edition. The line blends Swiss craftsmanship with technical innovation to reinterpret traditional watchmaking. Read More
BA111OD
BA111OD Chapter 8 Brings Swiss Craftsmanship at Accessible Prices
BA111OD’s Chapter 8 collection introduces a three‑hand date model and a moonphase, offered in seven variations at competitive prices. Both use reliable Soprod automatics inside 41 mm steel cases, with elegant sandblasted dials that emphasize clarity and charm. The moonphase places a distinctive lunar display at 10 o’clock, while the three‑hand model leans into dressy versatility. Built in Neuchâtel, pricing starts at CHF 595 for the three‑hand and $1,240 for the moonphase. Read More
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross Mashes Up Signature Models For New BR-X3 watch
Bell & Ross unveils the BR‑X3, a titanium hybrid that blends the BR‑03’s geometry with BR‑X5 engineering and aerospace‑minded design. The Black Titanium uses Grade 2 titanium for lightweight strength, while Blue Steel pairs polished steel with anodized blue aluminum accents. Both house the COSC‑certified BR‑CAL.323 automatic with a 70‑hour reserve in a multi‑layer case that emphasizes durability and stealth. Prices are $8,300 for Black Titanium and $7,200 for Blue Steel. Read More
Breguet
A Voyage Between Sky and Sea: Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555
To celebrate its 250th anniversary, Breguet launches the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, limited to 50 pieces with a dial inspired by NASA’s “Black Marble” imagery. The 43.9 mm watch features two superimposed dials and the patented calibre 77F1 for seamless time‑zone switching and a 55‑hour reserve. Multiple layers of hand‑painted enamel add depth, with phosphorescent enamel highlighting city landmarks at night. Priced at $104,700, it showcases Breguet’s marriage of craftsmanship and technical innovation. Read More
Bulgari (Bvlgari)
This Legendary Sports Watch Just Went Full Stealth Mode
The Octo Finissimo goes all‑black in a DLC titanium case that amplifies its sleek, sport‑luxury identity. A matte dial with glossy hands and indices preserves legibility, while a textured rubber strap replaces the traditional bracelet. The ultra‑thin BVL 138 micro‑rotor automatic delivers a 60‑hour reserve in a 2.23 mm‑thick movement. Retailing for $15,500 with October availability, it fuses minimalist luxury with contemporary sport appeal. Read More
Chronoswiss
Purple Rain: Chronoswiss Celebrates 30 Years of the Opus
The “Opus Purple Rain,” limited to 30 pieces, commemorates 30 years of the skeletonized chronograph in a vibrant violet CVD‑coated titanium case. A fully openworked dial showcases the calibre C.741S skeletonized automatic chronograph with a 46‑hour reserve. Its UV‑reactive white leather strap turns violet in sunlight, adding theatrical flair to the technical showcase. With onion crown and fluted case band, it merges modern mechanics and bold aesthetics. Read More
G‑Shock
G-Shock's Beloved 'CasiOak' Gets a Trio of Refined Steel Treatments
G‑Shock’s G‑Steel 2100 Series introduces three refined metallic dials—champagne, fuchsia, and blue—created via advanced vapor deposition. The stainless‑steel “CasiOak” case pairs with bio‑based resin bands, and the solar‑powered watches include Bluetooth and multifunctional digital displays. These updates bring a premium twist to a fan‑favorite silhouette without sacrificing everyday toughness. At $280, they’re now available from G‑Shock. Read More
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar in Dawn Blue
The PanoMaticCalendar “Blue of Dawn” is limited to 150 pieces and pairs a platinum case with a skeletonized deep‑blue dial. The annual calendar integrates a Panorama Date, a retrograde month indicator, and a moon‑phase, all driven by calibre 92‑11 with a 100‑hour power reserve. White‑gold markers and blued hands maximize legibility on the 42 mm case. Offered on alligator leather or textile strap, it retails for $43,800. Read More
Grand Seiko
New Release: Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC006 Watch
The Tentagraph SLGC006, limited to 300 pieces, evolves Grand Seiko’s fully mechanical chronograph with a metallic “copper pink” dial inspired by Mt. Iwate. Its High‑Intensity Titanium case with 18k rose‑gold accents houses the Hi‑Beat 9SC5 movement, offering 72 hours of power and high accuracy. Retailing at $22,600, it blends Japanese craftsmanship with a distinctive, modern sports aesthetic. Despite its premium positioning, it aims squarely at collectors seeking precision with design personality. Read More
Hamilton
Hamilton expands Khaki Field legacy with new 40mm Power Reserve Mechanical
Hamilton adds its first on‑dial power reserve to the Khaki Field in a rugged 40 mm, hand‑wound format. The H‑23 movement’s 80‑hour autonomy, Super‑LumiNova hands, and black or white dial options enhance daily usability. Buyers can choose between a steel bracelet or green NATO strap, while a slipping spring mechanism boosts reliability and comfort. It’s a meaningful evolution of the classic field‑watch platform. Read More
Hermès
The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles
The H08 expands with two stylish colorways—led by a light gray dial—inside a titanium cushion case with sandblasted and rhodium‑plated finishes. Powered by the H1837 automatic with a 50‑hour reserve, it supports multiple strap options, including vibrant rubber. Its proportions suit a wide range of wrists and sustain the line’s urban‑sport character. Priced at £6,340, it balances durability with fashion‑forward design. Read More
• Introducing: Two New Colorways For The Hermès H08 Read More
Jaeger‑LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel
Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s 50‑piece Master Ultra‑Thin Tourbillon Enamel features an anthracite‑gray Grand Feu dial with a 180‑line hand‑guilloché sunray pattern. Its re‑engineered ultra‑thin Calibre 978 sits in a 40 mm 18k pink‑gold case on a black alligator strap. The timepiece balances artisanal dial craft with modern tourbillon performance and refined proportions. It’s a hallmark of the MU‑T line’s quiet elegance and technical focus. Read More
Louis Erard
A Canvas in Steel: Louis Erard’s Gravée Main
Gravée Main, limited to 99 pieces, showcases a fully hand‑engraved stainless‑steel case by Ukrainian engraver Maksym Shavlak with baroque floral motifs. The ornate exterior is balanced by a minimalist glossy black lacquer dial with anthracite Roman numerals. Powered by the Sellita SW261‑1 (28,800 vph, ~38 hours), it comes on black calfskin with a hand‑engraved buckle. Priced at CHF 5,450 (about $6,770), it blends artisanal case craft with everyday practicality. Read More
Nivada Grenchen
This Ultra-Rare Vintage Explorer's Watch Just Got the Faithful Upgrade It Deserves
Nivada Grenchen revives the Antarctic GMT after renewed interest sparked by a Hodinkee‑sold vintage piece. The modern 36 mm version features a roulette‑style inner rotating 24‑hour bezel and a distinctive checkered GMT hand, with sapphire crystal and 100 m water resistance. Super‑LumiNova enhances low‑light visibility while the crisp monochrome design preserves vintage charm. Limited to 225 pieces at $1,740, it’s a faithful and functional update. Read More
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier Expands the Toric Petite Seconde
Parmigiani extends the Toric Petite Seconde with “Golden Hour” in platinum and “Dune” in rose gold, both with bespoke hand‑wound calibres. Doric‑inspired design, hand‑grained gold dials, and 60‑hour reserves reinforce restrained luxury and refined proportions. The Platinum Golden Hour carries a cooler palette, while the Rose Gold Dune pairs with a sand‑toned nubuck alligator strap. Priced at $50,800 and $50,400, they present sophisticated modern classicism. Read More
RGM
Review: the RGM Model 222-RR "Ferguson"
RGM’s Model 222‑RR “Ferguson” highlights American watchmaking by re‑housing a Hamilton pocket‑watch movement in a modern steel case. Its distinctive Ferguson‑style dial emphasizes bold legibility and draws on the railroad era’s pragmatic design ethos. With substantial wrist presence and careful finishing, it appeals to collectors who value U.S. horological heritage. Pricing is $8,950 (921) and $9,950 (rarer 923). Read More
Shinola
This Gorgeous, Retro Racing-Inspired Chrono Just Became a Fixture By Popular Demand
Shinola permanently adds two popular Canfield Speedway Chronograph variants after strong demand, both inspired by retro racing and an Ohio dirt track. Each features a tachymeter scale, a 44 mm steel case with exhibition back, and a Sellita SW510.bha automatic with a 56‑hour reserve. One configuration pairs a black dial with leather ($2,995), the other a gradient blue dial with a steel bracelet ($3,295). They combine mechanical charm with everyday sturdiness. Read More
Stollenwurm
The Stollenwurm Rises: Myth and Metal Unite in a Watch of Twelve Legends
The Stollenwurm Series 1 draws on Swiss folklore to create twelve unique watches exploring the interplay of myth and metal. Using rare materials like tantalum and platinum, each piece represents a chapter tied to the ancient seven‑day cycle and celestial symbolism. A bespoke movement developed with Télôs Watch and TMH underlines the project’s technical seriousness. The series invites wearers to experience time as narrative and meaning. Read More
Timex
The $500 Timex Marlin Jet Chronograph "Panda" That Has Tudor Owners’ Attention
The Marlin Jet Chronograph “Panda” brings retro‑racing style with a 40 mm stainless‑steel case, glass‑box crystal, and an affordable quartz caliber. Enhanced drainage and a recycled steel bracelet add practical touches to its classic look. Aimed at enthusiasts who want the chrono aesthetic without mechanical upkeep, it undercuts pricier peers. Priced at AUD $570, it competes strongly with Seiko and Tissot offerings. Read More
Tissot
The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking
Tissot revives its 1985 Rock Watch with a modern 38 mm granite case carved from Swiss Alps stone and updated details. Each case is shaped and hollowed from a single block of granite, preserving the original’s quirky charm through a complex process. Nickel‑plated hands and a sapphire crystal add durability and clarity. Limited to 999 pieces at $1,225, it’s exclusive to Tissot’s Fifth Avenue boutique in NYC. Read More
Trilobe
Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection
Trilobe debuts its first in‑house movement, X‑Nihilo, alongside the brand’s signature rotating‑disc display for hours, minutes, and seconds. A 39.5 mm 316L steel case with integrated bracelet and 50 m water resistance makes it versatile, with dark blue or dark gray sunray dials. The movement features a skeletonized rotor and 42‑hour reserve, reinforcing the design’s mechanical credibility. At €16,500, it offers a nontraditional, design‑led option in the integrated‑bracelet market. Read More
Typsim
Typsim Guide XLH
Limited to five pieces globally, the Guide XLH pairs a 36 mm steel case and extra‑large screw‑down crown with 100 m water resistance. A boxy, lightly domed optical acrylic crystal sits over a negative‑relief gold‑gilt honeycomb dial with recessed Super‑LumiNova indexes. Baton hands with Super‑LumiNova enhance legibility, and the exclusive luminous compound is designed to develop a natural patina. Each piece includes a handmade waxed‑cotton strap from Seattle’s Substation and a chronometer‑grade movement, priced at $1,199. Read More
Vacheron Constantin
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's Métiers d’Art 'Tribute to the Quest of Time'
Vacheron Constantin adapts its automaton clock masterpiece into a wristwatch with a double‑retrograde display driven by a three‑dimensional titanium figure. The blue fumé double‑sapphire dial maps the constellations over Geneva on the brand’s founding date, underpinned by calibre 3670 with a six‑day reserve. Crafted in 18k white gold at 43 mm by 13.58 mm, it marries celestial artistry with advanced horological engineering. Limited to 20 pieces, pricing is on request. Read More
Zenith
Introducing: Zenith Defy Chronograph USM
Zenith partners with Swiss furniture maker USM on a Defy Chronograph USM that pairs the El Primero with dial colors inspired by USM’s Haller furniture line. Housed in a compact 37 mm steel case, each watch ships with a custom USM chest designed to store up to 12 watches. Limited to 60 pieces per color and priced at CHF 10,900, it blends design heritage, functionality, and playful modern color. It’s a cross‑disciplinary collaboration celebrating Swiss craft in both horology and industrial design. Read More
[Wearing Time - Reviews]
Hands-On: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain Final Edition Steel Watch
The Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain Final Edition is a limited stainless steel watch with a 39.6mm case, featuring a meticulously finished 256-component movement that includes a power reserve indicator. With only 33 pieces produced, it combines a visually appealing silver and blue design, a domed sapphire crystal, and a sporty leather strap, priced at CHF 220,000. The watch exemplifies high-end craftsmanship and exclusivity, returning to a production target of 300 watches per year. ablogtowatch.com
Hands-On: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde 'Dune' And 'Golden Hour' Watches
The Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde "Golden Hour" and "Dune" watches feature elegant designs with an 18k rose-gold case and 950 platinum case, respectively, both showcasing hand-grained solid gold dials. These watches reflect a refined luxury aesthetic, inspired by Le Corbusier's architectural polychromies, and are priced at $50,400 and $50,800. They combine classic watchmaking techniques with modern luxury, emphasizing craftsmanship and exclusivity. ablogtowatch.com
Watch Review: UNIMATIC Diving Heritage GMT Tropical Brown
The UNIMATIC Diving Heritage GMT Tropical Brown is a limited-edition watch featuring a 41.5mm Modello Uno case, automatic GMT movement, and a tropical brown color palette. It combines modern design with vintage aesthetics, offering versatility and comfort. The watch is water-resistant to 300 meters and comes with a durable TPU strap. Priced at €750, it is positioned as an affordable tool watch with a distinctive style. ablogtowatch.com
Watch Review: Luminox Series 3350 MIL-SPEC
The Luminox Series 3350 MIL-SPEC watch is designed for durability and legibility, featuring a 46mm Carbonox+ case, a Swiss ETA F06.412 quartz movement, and high-contrast dial with tritium gas tubes for visibility. Originally priced at $695, it now retails for $895, reflecting its upgraded materials and military specifications. The watch is praised for its rugged design and functionality, making it suitable for both military and casual use. ablogtowatch.com
Hands-On Debut: Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition II Watch
The Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition II features a vibrant teal mother-of-pearl dial and a semi-integrated stainless steel case, maintaining a 300-meter water resistance. Powered by the Oris 733 automatic movement, it combines style with affordability in servicing. Limited to 2,000 pieces, it retails for $3,000 and supports the Billion Oyster Project charity. ablogtowatch.com
Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II
This review compares the Doxa Sub 750T and the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II, highlighting their design, comfort, and value. The Doxa features a slimmer profile and vintage-inspired charm, while the Oris offers better construction and value, supporting a good cause with its purchase. Readers are encouraged to vote for their preferred watch based on these attributes. fratellowatches.com
I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600
The review details the author's journey in finding the ultimate dive watch, the Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600, which combines modern technical innovations with a vintage aesthetic. The watch, described as "neo-vintage," is highlighted for its superior features such as a sapphire crystal, 904L stainless steel construction, and a reliable Rolex 3135 movement, providing a water resistance of up to 1,220 meters. The author appreciates its ergonomic design and absence of the Cyclops lens found on other models, emphasizing the emotional connection to the watch, as it links back to family memories and the significance of deep-sea diving. The Sea-Dweller 16600 is celebrated not only for its specifications but also for its storytelling and the special moments shared with loved ones during its purchase. fratellowatches.com
[Watching Time]
[Watching Talk]
The Worn & Wound Podcast Ep. 416: The One Watch Collection
This episode features a discussion on the concept of a one watch collection, exploring the practicality and significance of owning a single watch. Zach Kazan, Kat Shoulders, and Liam O’Donnell each select a watch for this thought experiment. Additionally, Liam shares insights from a recent trip with Tudor, highlighting their involvement in a major cycling race in Canada. Listen
The Business of Watches Podcast: Sylvain Berneron On His Company’s Work Philosophy, Business Structure, And Future Watches
Sylvain Berneron, a designer with a background in automotive, has successfully transitioned to watchmaking with his brand, achieving high auction prices for his designs. He recently launched his second collection, Quantième, featuring innovative complications and a unique design. Berneron discusses his business philosophy, including limited production, strategic location in a Swiss industrial park, and his decision to decline offers from major brands and investors to maintain creative control and sustainability. Listen
[Watching Events]
Dubai Watch Week Returns For A Seventh Edition In 2025
Dubai Watch Week will return for its seventh edition from November 19-23, 2025, at Dubai Mall, Burj Park, featuring over 90 participating brands, making it the largest edition to date. The event is free and open to the public, promoting interaction among brands, media, and enthusiasts through workshops and discussions, while showcasing new models and exclusive releases. ablogtowatch.com
[Repairing Time]
AIS Collective unveils Swiss-Made solution to resetting patina on bronze watches
AIS Collective has launched the BronzePen, a Swiss-made tool designed to refresh and reset the patina on bronze watches. It features a soft brush and a specialized cleaning solution, allowing users to control the restoration process while preserving the unique character of bronze. Founded in 2019, AIS Collective aims to provide innovative watch care solutions and has previously achieved success with the ChronoPen. europastar.com
[BuyingTime at Auction]
The First Stainless-Steel Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is Headed to Auction
The first stainless-steel Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518 will be auctioned in November, estimated to fetch over CHF 8 million. This rare watch, one of only four known stainless steel models, previously sold for CHF 11 million in 2016, marking a significant moment in watch collecting history. Its return to auction represents a unique opportunity for collectors, highlighting its legacy and exceptional condition. Read more
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[BuyingTime on the sites]
A few interesting watches that caught our eye on various watch selling sites
