BuyingTime Daily - October 9, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe
October 9, 2025
The annual Deloitte report paints a complicated portrait of the Swiss watch industry: tariffs, a strong franc, and sluggish exports to China and Hong Kong have put pressure on performance. But optimism brews under the surface, as the U.S. market rebounds and brands lean into design, sustainability, and tech-enabled development—yes, AI is officially part of the horological conversation. The rise of women and younger buyers in both new and pre-owned segments is also reshaping how brands tell their stories and set their prices.
Meanwhile, Mark Zuckerberg crashed UFC 320 headlines not by throwing punches, but by wearing a $2.5 million F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine. That’s right: Zuck brought out the most expensive watch in his collection—and possibly the nerdiest. The flex lit up watch circles and reminded everyone that Silicon Valley collectors are a growing force in the ultra-high-end.
Less glamorous was the watch crime of the week: a man is facing deportation after swiping a £65,000 Patek Philippe from a coffee exec. Authorities are spotlighting this as part of a growing wave of targeted thefts, especially in urban centers. Gentle reminder: wear your grails wisely—or at least don’t flaunt them in line at Tim Hortons.
In features, the investment value of collectible watches continues to gain steam. As traditional assets wobble, emotional and financial returns are combining to make horology a new kind of asset class—one with less volatility and more visible flair. On a different note, women over 60 are rediscovering classic analog styles that prioritize comfort and legibility. Think Jaeger‑LeCoultre Rendez‑Vous, not pixelated step trackers.
IWC launched its “Curated” collection—vintage grails restored by museum experts and made available at select boutiques. It’s a brilliant play on provenance and brand heritage, with pieces like the Ingenieur SL and Da Vinci Perpetual leading the charge.
In indie land, AXIA Time teamed with the National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency (yes, that’s a thing) for a 100-piece tool watch that reads like a love letter to cartography. Bangalore Watch Company dropped a meteorite-dial version of the Apogee Visitor, Citizen unveiled a punchy new GMT for the Series 8 line, and Garmin’s new Fēnix 8 Proredefines “bright idea” with a screen hitting 4,500 NITs.
Kollokium went full architecture nerd with the Projekt 02 FFF&F, Lang & Heyne returned with a luxe Hektor Edition II, and MeisterSinger gave its single-hand Kaenos a luminous DLC makeover. Montblanc, of course, decided to one-up everyone by channeling Louis XIV into a guilloché‑laden Exo Tourbillon inspired by Versailles.
Seiko freshened up the Prospex Alpinist, giving it new dials and a longer power reserve. Sinn went tactical with the EZM 3 SW Diver, and TAG Heuer launched both a next-gen Connected E5 smartwatch and a New Balance collab that might appeal more to runners than horologists. Also on the tech-savvy front, Timex rebooted its legendary Ironman in outdoor-ready olive and orange.
Victorinox entered the GMT chat with the Air Pro, offering a rugged pilot’s watch with triple-time-zone tracking. In reviews, Bulgari’s Bronzo leaned into luxury nostalgia by giving the ‘90s Aluminum model a bronze case. Maurice Lacroix upgraded its Aikon with a new movement and ceramic bezel, while Orion’s Hellcat 36 returned with new dials and a sleek case—more refined, but still spirited.
And finally, over in auction news, last night’s auction report special - the Ulysse Nardin Freak “Blue Phantom” got bid to $25,500 but didn’t meet the reserve. Last night, all eyes were on the mesmerizing Ressence Type 3B EE Eucalyptus, a 44mm oil-filled vision of horological magic. If you’ve ever wanted a watch that looks like it’s floating in a glass of absinthe, this one’s for you.
The time universe keeps expanding—float with it.
News Time
Annual Deloitte report finds Swiss watch industry under pressure, but energized
Deloitte’s latest report points to a challenging year for Swiss watchmaking, with tariffs, currency strength, and softer exports to China and Hong Kong weighing on performance. Yet sentiment remains cautiously optimistic as the U.S. market strengthens and consumers anticipate price rises. Younger buyers and women are driving demand across both new and pre‑owned segments, pushing brands to connect emotionally while innovating in design and sustainability. AI is increasingly used behind the scenes, signaling a shift in how products are conceived and refined.
Mark Zuckerberg stole the spotlight at UFC 320 wearing a $2.5 million F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine, the most expensive timepiece from his collection
At UFC 320, Mark Zuckerberg showcased an ultra‑rare F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine valued at $2.5 million, drawing major attention to his watch collection. The piece underscores the technology mogul’s interest in high horology and complicated works of art. Its presence in a mainstream sports event highlights the cultural cachet luxury watches continue to hold. The moment also fueled broader conversation about modern collectors and their public watch choices.
Watch ripper who stole £65k watch from coffee boss faces deportation
Authorities are seeking to deport a thief linked to high‑value watch robberies after stealing a £65,000 Patek Philippe from a Tim Hortons executive. The case spotlights a rise in targeted watch crimes and the risks faced by wearers of luxury pieces in public spaces. Law enforcement is responding with heightened efforts to identify organized groups and deter future incidents. The episode serves as a reminder to consider discretion and security when wearing valuable timepieces.
Feature Time
From Passion to Investment: How Collectible Watches Are Outperforming Traditional Assets
Collectible watches are increasingly viewed as a legitimate asset class, offering both emotional appeal and financial upside. Demand for rare and culturally relevant pieces fuels record auction results and a vibrant secondary market. Successful collectors focus on rarity, condition, provenance, and brand prestige while staying mindful of risk. Technology is improving transparency and access, bringing more informed buyers into the space.
7 elegant watches women over 60 are choosing this year (and why comfort matters most)
Classic analog watches are resurging among women over 60 for their simplicity, elegance, and ease of use. Key considerations include clear, legible dials, lightweight cases to reduce strain, and adjustable bands for all‑day comfort. Options span from budget‑friendly pieces like the Speidel Easy‑to‑Read to heirloom‑worthy models such as Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Rendez‑Vous. Trying a range of sizes and straps helps ensure the best personal fit and style.
IWC. Curated. Presents A Gateway To Historic Watches Picked By IWC Museum’s Experts
IWC’s new Curated collection offers historically significant watches, restored and certified by the brand’s museum experts. Each piece carries documented provenance, extended warranty coverage, and careful restoration by skilled watchmakers. Highlights include the Gérald Genta‑designed Ingenieur SL and the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1985. Select IWC boutiques in Switzerland, the UK, Dubai, and Japan will showcase and sell these pieces.
The Latest Time
Axia Time
From Seabed To Space With The AXIA Time NGA Argos Collaboration Watch
A limited edition collaboration honors the National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency with a design that nods to mapping and exploration. The Swiss-made dive watch brings 300m water resistance, a compass bezel, and a topographic map dial. A Swiss automatic movement powers the piece, balancing practicality with a clean, purposeful aesthetic. Only 100 pieces will be made, priced at $1,150 USD.
Bangalore Watch Company
Introducing: The Meteorite Dial Of The Bangalore Watch Company Apogee Visitor
The Apogee Visitor uses Muonionalusta meteorite for its dial, showing off natural Widmanstätten patterns. A 40mm Cerasteel unibody case, twin crowns, and 100m water resistance emphasize utility with space-inspired flair. Inside is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement for reliable performance. It’s priced at INR 216,000, roughly USD 2,500.
Citizen
First Look: A New and Bold Take on the Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Mechanical
This limited 1,600-piece GMT pairs a gunmetal and gold-coated case with a dial that fades from black to silvery-white like night city lights. The 41mm steel case improves drainage and houses calibre 9054 with a true traveler’s GMT. It’s both striking and functional, aimed at frequent flyers who want easy time-zone changes. Priced at USD 1,800.
Garmin
Garmin’s Fēnix 8 Pro is smarter and brighter than ever
A new MicroLED display reaches up to 4,500 NITs, making this one of the brightest smartwatch screens available. InReach satellite connectivity keeps users linked even without a phone, complementing an extensive suite of fitness and navigation features. Multiple sizes and materials, plus solar variants and up to 27 days of battery life, target serious athletes and adventurers. It’s a major leap in visibility and capability.
Kollokium
Introducing: The New Kollokium Projekt 02 FFF&F Edition
A sculptural, topographic dial built from 67 stacked plates gives the 39.5mm monobloc case a mesmerizing depth. A panoramic sapphire crystal amplifies the three-dimensional effect. The La Joux‑Perret G101 automatic movement brings a 68-hour power reserve, while an elastic textile strap completes the look. Limited to 199 pieces at CHF 3,333.33 (ex-VAT), with a public version set for 2026.
Lang & Heyne
Lang & Heyne Hektor Edition II
Limited to 99 pieces, the Edition II reimagines the sporty Hektor with more water resistance and luminous indices. A minimalist three-tier dial architecture—complete with a distinctive “petticoat” design—elevates the look. Inside, the hand‑wound LH 33.2‑2 offers a 48-hour power reserve. Priced at €19,999 plus VAT, exclusively in black dial.
MeisterSinger
Introducing: The New MeisterSingern Kaenos DLC Editions
MeisterSinger’s single-hand Kaenos gets a black DLC case and a luminous golden-yellow sandwich dial. The 40mm watch carries either the SW400 or SW200 automatic with about 38 hours of power reserve. A fitted calf leather strap debuts on the Kaenos, with an optional black strap available. Limited to 50 pieces each at EUR 2,790 for Kaenos and EUR 3,090 for Kaenos Open Date.
Montblanc
Montblanc presents a luxury watch inspired by the Palace of Versailles, a tribute to Louis XIV
This Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon blends royal blue and measured gilding with solar motifs inspired by the Sun King. A hand‑worked dial references the Galerie des Glaces through fine guilloché. The Suspended Exo Tourbillon heightens the visual spectacle and showcases Minerva heritage. Elegantly wearable and highly limited, it’s aimed at serious collectors.
Seiko
Seiko Just Updated Its Legendary Field Watch for the First Time in Over Half a Decade
The Prospex Alpinist gets fresh dials, a thinner case, and prominent Alpinist branding for the first time in years. A new power reserve of 72 hours and a display caseback underline the technical and visual updates. The green-dial variant nods to the beloved SARB017 while taking the line forward. Priced from $900 for the SPB507, with releases beginning next month.
Sinn
Sinn EZM 3 SW Divers Limited Edition
A matte white dial meets a fully Tegimented black DLC case for a high-contrast tool aesthetic. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide, it offers 500m water resistance, anti‑magnetic protection to 80,000 A/m, and Sinn’s Ar Dehumidifying Technology. The black DLC Tegimented H‑Link bracelet and red bezel markers boost legibility and robustness. A mission-focused diver with serious engineering throughout.
TAG Heuer
New Release: TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Smartwatches And TAG Heuer X New Balance Collaboration
The fifth‑generation Connected Calibre E5 introduces TAG Heuer OS for better legibility and faster connectivity. Offered in 40mm and 45mm, it adds advanced wellness features, with sleep tracking coming soon. A New Balance collaboration includes a performance‑oriented special edition and runners’ strap. Prices range from $1,600 to $2,400 for the watches, with $270 for the shoes.
Connected Calibre E5 is TAG Heuer’s ‘Most Advanced’ Smartwatch Ever Read More >
Timex
Timex’s Legendary Training Watch Gets an Outdoor Adventure Revamp
The Ironman Flix returns in an olive drab palette with hunter orange accents and a retro digital display. It keeps its 100‑lap memory, memo pad, and tactile button interface, now with wrist‑flick Indiglo backlight. A durable resin case and strap keep weight down and water resistance up. Limited edition pricing is $129 via Huckberry and Timex.
Victorinox Swiss Army
Victorinox Launches the Air Pro GMT Automatic Pilot’s Watch
A 43mm pilot’s GMT with twin crowns tracks three time zones via a clear, 3D dial and oversized luminous markers. The Sellita SW330‑2 delivers a 56‑hour power reserve, while the case is shock‑resistant and water‑resistant to 200m. Practical features and rugged construction target both travel and daily wear. Prices start at $1,700 USD online and at Reeds Jewelers.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bulgari
Hands-On: Bulgari’s Bronzo Takes The 90s Classic ‘Aluminum’ And Gives It Some Heft
The Bronzo reinterprets the late-90s Aluminum with a weightier bronze case and signature rubber bezel, adding visual warmth and a more substantial feel. Offered in chronograph and GMT versions, it keeps the recognizable design language while improving practicality and perceived value. Bronze‑toned hands, luminous dials, and 100 meters of water resistance pair with Sellita‑based automatic movements. A distinctive rubber strap enhances comfort and fit across wrist sizes.
Maurice Lacroix
Watch Review: Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Automatic 43mm
This 43mm Aikon features ceramic bezels and the new ML1000 movement with 60 hours of power and better accuracy. A carbon fiber dial with wavy striations, polished indices, and the quick‑swap ML Easy Change strap system raise everyday usability. The upgraded caliber is a meaningful step forward, though the dial’s bold texture may divide opinions. Pricing is $3,400 in steel and $3,700 for the black DLC titanium version.
Orion
Watch Review: Orion Hellcat 36
The Hellcat returns in a refined 36.5mm case with a polished bezel and stepped flank details for added elegance. New dial options, including black mother‑of‑pearl and deep purple, emphasize individuality without sacrificing clarity. Power comes from the Miyota 9039 with a 42‑hour reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback. Pricing ranges from $765 for the deep purple to $1,025 for meteorite variants.
Watching Time
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Last night’s result: the Ulysse Nardin Freak “Blue Phantom” 44.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (020-81) was bid to $25,500 but did not meet the reserve. See it HERE
2024 Ressence Type 3B Eucalyptus 44MM Green Dial Textile Strap (Type 3 EE Eucalyptus)
Auction Report: Liquid Green Brilliance: Ressence Type 3B EE Eucalyptus (44 mm)
A true spectacle of horological innovation, the 2024 Ressence Type 3B “EE Eucalyptus” is headed to auction, with the hammer scheduled to fall at precisely 9:22 p.m. on tonight (Thursday, October 9, 2025). With its mesmerizing oil-filled display, rare eucalyptus-green dial, and floating indications, this 44 mm titanium marvel offers something few watches in the world can: a literal suspension of disbelief.
The Ressence Type 3 series is defined by the brand’s trademark orbital convex system (ROCS), which magnetically couples to a mechanical movement housed in a separate lower chamber. The entire upper dial chamber is filled with oil—roughly 3.75 ml of it—which eliminates refraction and creates the illusion that the dial graphics are printed directly on the sapphire crystal. The visual result is hauntingly beautiful and utterly unique. The “EE” edition refers to its distinctive eucalyptus green coloration, applied not only to the dial but also to the backplate. Despite its complex construction and 44 mm size, the watch wears comfortably thanks to a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case and the absence of a crown. Instead, time and date are set via a rotating sapphire caseback.
Ressence introduced the eucalyptus green edition as part of a broader refresh of the Type 3 collection in 2024. Along with design tweaks and dial updates, this model showcases a matured evolution of Ressence’s core idea: a fusion of technology, legibility, and aesthetics. A winner of the prestigious “Horological Revelation” prize at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Type 3 continues to be one of the most distinctive and critically acclaimed mechanical watches of the past decade.
Market value for this model has hovered around $47,200 at authorized dealers such as Tourneau and Exquisite Timepieces. On the secondary market, examples have traded between $33,000 and $38,000 depending on condition, box and papers, and seller reputation. While one speculative listing has appeared on eBay for an absurd $132,000, this should be taken with a shaker of salt. A more realistic range for this auction, assuming a clean example with full set, would fall between $40,000 and $60,000. That said, with Ressence being a niche independent brand and the oil-filled movement requiring specialized servicing, collectors should factor in the long-term ownership considerations before leaping in.
Still, for someone seeking an art-forward, conversation-starting timepiece from one of horology’s boldest innovators, this Type 3B EE Eucalyptus is nothing short of a mechanical sculpture. With its floating indicators, minimalist design, and calming green hue, it feels less like a tool watch and more like a wearable Zen garden.
If you’re bidding, move quickly—because like all Ressence watches, the longer you stare, the more hypnotic it becomes.
See it now on Grailzee. See it Now on Grailzee >