BuyingTime Daily - October 8, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – October 8, 2025
The Swatch x Omega Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold has officially landed—and yes, it’s pointing at you. This limited Hunter’s Moon release features a Bioceramic case, moon phase hand in the form of an actual hand, and just enough blacklight Easter eggs to make even hardcore MoonSwatch fans raise an eyebrow. It’s priced at $450 and available only through October 21, so expect lines, photos, and mild chaos.
Ever wanted a Tudor with your company logo at six o’clock? Apparently, you’re not alone. Since 2015, Tudor has quietly offered a customization program through authorized dealers, allowing select dial personalization (but don’t get greedy—no dial colors or bezel swaps). Wait times stretch up to nine months, so patience is part of the luxury.
Maison Alcée wants to put you to work—with love. Their Persée Clock kit includes 233 components and a Jura-sourced supply chain so enthusiasts can literally build their own horology. It’s DIY meets haute mech, with GPHG accolades to boot.
As the microbrand scene continues to swell, definitions of “vintage” are getting fuzzier (hello, 1990s), and collectors are being warned against “Frankenwatches.” The good news? A few killer GMT options under $30K are hiding in plain sight.
Meanwhile, remember those bizarre textured Rolex cases from the Bahamas? They’re back. Known as “John Bull Specials,” these barked and orange-peel finishes were crafted by Günter Miethe at the John Bull boutique between 1987 and 2001—and they’re now pulling premiums above $20K. Turns out the aftermarket isn’t always a downgrade.
Armin Strom debuts a One Week Manufacture Edition Blue with seven days of hand-wound reserve and sharp design execution. Doxa teams up with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons for a cherry-red SUB 250 that leans into regional flavor. Girard-Perregaux celebrates 50 years of the Laureato with not one but two gold-accented tributes, powered by the new GP4800.
Grand Seiko gets poetic with the Spring Drive “Violet Dawn,” channeling icy sunrises in a 37mm steel case. Greubel Forsey brings the Hand Made 1 and 2 together for a mechanical reunion tour—just 6,000 hours of craftsmanship between them. Hermès adds a baby-blue dial to its Cut line, and Oris partners with Cervo Volante on an eco-forward Big Crown Pointer Date.
In review mode, A. Lange & Söhne gets minimalist with the Saxonia Thin Onyx in honey gold or platinum. Lorcacontinues its refined neo-vintage chronograph line, while Montblanc releases a glacier-inspired 38 mm diver with oxygen-free case sealing. Parmigiani Fleurier keeps it quiet and golden with the Toric Petite Seconde “Dune.”
And yes, Swatch gets one more mention for its Snoopy MoonSwatch redux—because you can’t say no to a moon phase hand that points fingers.
Finally, our featured auction spotlight is the Ulysse Nardin Freak “Blue Phantom,” currently sitting at $8,000 with no box or papers but plenty of attitude. Expect competitive bidding before it closes tonight. See it now on Grailzee.
News Time
Swatch x Omega Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold Hunter Moon
Swatch and Omega mark the Hunter’s Moon with the Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold, adding a playful moon phase display that features a human hand pointing at the wearer. The third MoonSwatch model pairs a navy Bioceramic case with a bold tachymeter and a dial rendering of Earth as seen from the Moon. Super‑LumiNova keeps key details legible at night, while hidden touches like Snoopy and a blacklight message add whimsy. Priced at $450, it’s available October 7–21, 2025, at select Swatch stores.
Feature Time
Custom Tudor Dials: What’s the Deal?
Tudor has offered customized dials since around 2015, letting buyers add limited personal touches such as logos or text on the lower half of the dial. Caseback engravings and edge‑of‑dial text are possible, but colors for hands, bezel, or dial cannot be changed. Most Tudor models are eligible except some very recent releases and colored Black Bay Chrono variants. Orders go through authorized dealers, require full upfront payment, and typically take six months to deliver, or up to nine months if caseback alignment is specified.
Maison Alcée The Clockmaker
Maison Alcée reimagines high‑end horology as a hands‑on craft with the Persée Clock, a 233‑component kit designed for enthusiasts to assemble themselves. Co‑founded in 2019 by Alcée Montfort and Benoît, the brand prioritizes a hyper‑local supply chain, sourcing over 90% of components from the Jura region. The Persée earned the Audacity Prize at the 2023 GPHG, and the company offers a workbench and instructional resources to deepen the maker’s connection to the piece. With design variations and future complications planned, Maison Alcée invites families and individuals into a meaningful, creative horological experience.
Microbrands, Frankenwatches, and What Even Is a Vintage Watch? | Q&A
This newsletter surveys the state of microbrands, praising their originality while questioning their long‑term sustainability in a crowded market. It explores how the definition of “vintage” is shifting to include watches from the 1980s and 1990s as collectors reassess their value. The discussion also examines “Frankenwatches,” emphasizing originality and integrity in collecting. Behind‑the‑scenes insights round out the piece with practical recommendations, including GMT picks under $30,000.
The John Bull Special: Günter Miethe’s “Bahamas” Rolex Textures
From 1987 to 2001, master watchmaker Günter Miethe at John Bull—the Bahamas’ sole authorized Rolex dealer—hand‑engraved distinctive “barked” and rarer “orange peel” textures on Rolex cases and bracelets. Although aftermarket modifications typically reduce value, these John Bull Specials have become highly desirable to collectors and often command premiums over standard models. The textured trend began with a custom order of 50 Submariners, evolved into a broader practice, and has since taken on vintage charm. Select original pieces have fetched over $20,000 at auction as the aesthetic gains renewed recognition.
The Latest Time
Armin Strom
Introducing: Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition Blue
A 41 mm stainless steel case and a deep blue PVD‑coated mainplate set a modern tone for this limited edition. The hand‑wound calibre ARM21 delivers a seven‑day power reserve with meticulous finishing visible throughout. Luminous hands and a black minute ring keep legibility high without sacrificing style. Limited to 100 pieces at CHF 32,000, it blends daily-wear practicality with high craftsmanship.
Doxa
Introducing: The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition
Created for the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, this 40 mm cushion‑case diver is limited to 75 pieces. A cherry‑red sunray dial pairs with sand‑gold hands and a patented bezel marked in Eastern Arabic numerals. The Sellita SW300 offers a 56‑hour power reserve and 250 m water resistance. Delivered on a steel bracelet with an extra black rubber strap, it retails for AED 12,000 exclusively at Seddiqi boutiques.
Girard-Perregaux
50 Years of Girard-Perregaux Laureato: New Anniversary Model
Marking the 1975 debut, the new Laureato Fifty blends steel and yellow gold while preserving the signature octagonal bezel. Inside is the GP4800, engineered for improved shock and magnetism resistance and inspired by the Three Bridges aesthetic. It captures the evolution of the integrated‑bracelet sports watch while honoring the original’s lines. Design and mechanics align to underline the model’s half‑century legacy.
Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty
This 39 mm limited edition in steel and 3N yellow gold carries a sunray grey Clous de Paris dial and 150 m water resistance. The new Calibre GP4800 runs at 4 Hz with a 55‑hour reserve, paired to a tapered steel‑and‑gold bracelet. Limited to 200 pieces at $28,320, it updates proportions and movement tech while retaining the Laureato’s identity. It’s a polished, modern expression of the archetypal integrated sports watch.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko SLGB005 Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive “Violet Dawn”
Limited to 1,300 pieces, this 37 mm Ever‑Brilliant Steel model features the ultra‑precise Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2 at ±20 seconds per year. Water‑resistant to 10 bar and anti‑magnetic to 4,800 A/m, it’s built for durability. The dial gradients from deep violet to icy tones, evoking a winter sunrise. Priced at $11,100, it showcases Grand Seiko’s union of technical mastery and dial artistry.
Greubel Forsey
Just Because: The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 & Hand Made 2 Reunited
Hand Made 1, a 43.5 mm white‑gold tourbillon, is 95% crafted by hand and demands roughly 6,000 hours per piece. Hand Made 2 reduces size to 40.9 mm and elevates refinement, reaching 96% handmade components with a quieter elegance. Together they demonstrate the limits of artisanal watchmaking in a world of automation. The result is a compelling contrast between demonstrative grandeur and restrained perfection.
Hermes
Introducing: The Hermès Cut Now Sports a Light Blue Dial
A compact 36 mm stainless steel case and cushion‑inspired profile give the Cut a distinctive silhouette. The light blue dial features luminescent Arabic numerals and a seconds hand with an orange counterweight. Powered by the H1912 automatic from Vaucher, it offers a 50‑hour power reserve and 100 m water resistance. Priced at EUR 5,400 without diamonds or EUR 10,500 with a diamond bezel, it comes on a misty blue textured rubber strap with optional bracelet.
Oris
First look: The new Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante
A burnt maple gradient dial nods to aviation heritage, shifting from reddish‑orange to a deeper hue. The 40 mm steel case houses the Oris 754 with a 41‑hour reserve under a domed AR sapphire crystal. A mahogany deer‑hide strap from Cervo Volante underscores sustainable sourcing and includes a deer leather travel pouch. Priced at CHF 2,250, it’s available now.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx
A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx pairs a lustrous black onyx dial with an ultra‑slim 6.2 mm case in either honey gold or platinum. Inside is the hand‑wound calibre L093.1 with a 72‑hour power reserve, finished to the brand’s exacting standards. Gold hands and markers underscore the minimalist elegance, while the refined casework keeps the focus on proportion and poise. It’s a restrained, high‑craft dress watch that highlights Lange’s finishing and discipline.
Girard-Perregaux
Hands-On Debut: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Watch With New Movement And Design
The Laureato Fifty marks 50 years with the new in‑house GP4800 automatic movement, boosting precision and resistance to environmental factors. A 39 mm steel and 18k yellow gold case frames a refined gray dial and a recontoured integrated bracelet for comfort. Running at 4 Hz with a 55‑hour power reserve and 150 m water resistance, it blends modern utility with heritage design. Limited to 200 pieces, it’s priced at $28,320 USD.
Lorca
Hands-On: Lorca Model No.2 Chronograph Watch
Lorca’s Model No.2 Chronograph channels mid‑century aesthetics with a monochrome palette and a distinctive radial guilloché bezel featuring a 120‑click bidirectional action. The manual‑wind Sellita SW510 M (élaboré grade) offers accuracy and a 63‑hour power reserve. Dial options include gloss black, silver sunburst, and the color‑shifting “Golden Gray,” all paired to a supple nine‑link bracelet. At $2,750, it delivers vintage flavor without the baggage of historical quirks.
Montblanc
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen 38 mm
This compact 38 mm diver extends Montblanc’s Iced Sea line with a glacier‑textured dial created via the traditional gratté‑boisé technique. The oxygen‑free case interior helps prevent oxidation and fogging, while 300 m water resistance readies it for real‑world diving. It’s powered by the MB 24.17 automatic and offered on an interchangeable steel bracelet or rubber strap. The result is a unisex tool watch that balances rugged performance with refined detailing.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune
Guided by Le Corbusier’s principles, the Toric Petite Seconde “Dune” showcases discreet luxury through proportion, texture, and light. Its 40.6 mm rose gold case frames a hand‑grained 18k gold dial with refined lance‑style hands and a recessed small seconds. Inside, the PF780 delivers a 60‑hour power reserve with exquisite finishing. Limited in production, it’s an elegant study in artisanal craft and quiet sophistication.
Swatch
New Snoopy MoonSwatch has tons of hidden details… but is it enough?
Swatch’s limited Snoopy MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold returns with playful twists for the Hunter’s Moon, priced at £335. A cartoon hand on the moon phase points at the wearer, and blacklight reveals hidden UV details like Snoopy’s thought bubble. While it retains the Earthphase specs and navy Bioceramic case, the design novelty may divide opinions. Collectors will likely chase it during the brief October 7–21, 2025 window.
Watching Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
Ulysse Nardin Freak “Blue Phantom” 44.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (020-81)
Auction Report: Into the Blue: Auction Spotlight on the Ulysse Nardin Freak ‘Blue Phantom’ (Ref. 020‑81)
Current Bid: $8,000
The auction closing Thursday evening, October 9, 2025, at 7:32 pm features a head-turning horological oddity: the Ulysse Nardin Freak “Blue Phantom” (Reference 020‑81). This listing includes the watch only—no box, no papers—and is represented by the seller as being in very good condition, a note that usually implies light signs of wear and no major cosmetic or mechanical defects. For collectors of the rare, the daring, or the mechanically bizarre, this is one worth watching.
The Freak Blue Phantom houses a 44.5mm white gold case with a matching bezel, giving it an imposing but elegant presence on the wrist. The dial is deep blue, with silver-toned, gear-inspired hands and Arabic numerals that enhance its already avant-garde design language. But calling it a dial feels a little wrong—this isn’t a traditional display. Instead, the time is indicated by the movement itself, which rotates around the dial once per hour. The minute hand is literally a rotating gear train and escapement, a kinetic sculpture in constant motion. Time is set by turning the top bezel after unlocking a tiny latch, while the watch is wound by rotating the caseback bezel. A small window on the rear offers a peek at the mainspring so you can tell how much juice is left.
This Blue Phantom version of the Freak, released around 2008, continued Ulysse Nardin’s pioneering work in silicon-based escapement components, which started with the original Freak in 2001. The watchmaking world didn’t quite know what to make of the Freak when it launched—but it quickly became a benchmark for experimental haute horlogerie. The Blue Phantom elevated this concept further, blending silicon technology with dramatic white gold architecture and a more refined, finished execution than earlier Freaks. It’s bolder, thicker, and unapologetically futuristic.
Technically, this is a manual-wind watch with a 7-day power reserve. The movement, often referred to as caliber UN-202, is pure theater. You don’t so much wear the Freak as you observe it throughout the day. The absence of a crown, the rotating time display, and the dual-bezel system for setting and winding all make it feel like a mechanical alien in the best way possible.
As for valuation, the original retail price was north of $95,000. Secondary market listings today vary wildly depending on condition and whether box and papers are included. A few online dealer listings price the watch between $38,000 and $45,000 for examples in decent but incomplete condition, while full-set models in mint condition are sometimes advertised closer to $70,000–$80,000. WatchAnalytics pegs the average value around $30,000–$32,000. Without box and papers, a piece like this might reasonably be expected to hammer in the mid-$30,000s, but competitive bidding or a rabid Freak fan could drive that number north of $40K.
One caveat to keep in mind: servicing a Freak isn’t your average watchmaker’s Tuesday afternoon. The unique movement architecture and use of silicon components make repairs both expensive and brand-dependent. And with no service records or documentation, bidders should proceed with care and request detailed photos of the movement, caseback, and bezels to confirm working condition. If the watch runs smoothly and the winding and setting bezels function as intended, it could be a superb buy. But if it hasn’t been serviced recently or shows wear internally, the cost of putting things right may undercut a seemingly “good deal.”
In short, the Freak Blue Phantom is not a watch for the faint of heart or the risk-averse. But for collectors who understand what they’re looking at—and don’t mind rolling the dice on a box-less beauty—it offers a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological rebellion that helped shape 21st-century watchmaking. If you’re in, be prepared to bid with confidence… and maybe a bit of courage. See it Now on Grailzee