BuyingTime Daily - October 7, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch market has pulled off the horological equivalent of a standing ovation with jazz hands: it ended the year exactly where it started. The WatchCharts Overall Market Index closed October 1 at 40,020—just twelve points shy of last year’s figure, proving that after months of tariff tremors, price hikes, and collector anxiety, we’ve somehow returned to zero net change. But zoom in, and there’s a pulse: +1.9% over six months, +1.5% in the last three, and +0.6% over the past 30 days. It’s not a rocket ship, but it’s moving. Long-term, the index is still up a muscular +68.2% since inception. So maybe we’re not popping champagne, but no one’s crying in their loupe either.
Meanwhile, Burgas Customs made a dramatic sweep, seizing nearly 17,000 counterfeit wristwatches on a route from China to Turkiye. That’s a lot of fake luxury about to meet a controlled-demolition ending. In contrast, one very real—and very historic—Rolex is heading to auction: the Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze during her 1927 English Channel swim attempt is estimated at $1.3 million. It’s not just a watch; it’s a waterproof time capsule that helped shape the Rolex mythos.
Hard-stone dials are making their disco-era comeback, with H. Moser, Piaget, Chopard, and yes, Rolex, re-embracing colorful stones like lapis and tiger’s eye. Aesthetic nostalgia never looked so good. Speaking of history, Abraham-Louis Breguet gets his due in a retrospective that reminds us why he remains the GOAT of horology, while Montblanc’s Minerva atelier shows off its high-art chops with a Versailles-themed Star Legacy piece, complete with tourbillon and music box.
New releases abound: Aquastar returns with a slick Benthos Professional diver; Benjamin James goes bold with a burnt orange agate dial; and Breitling updates its Premier line for the ladies. Cartier drops a titanium Santos that blends tool-watch pragmatism with Parisian elegance, while Hamilton plants its Khaki collection squarely in the outdoors with a rugged “Step Outside” campaign.
Luxury meets legacy with Louis Vuitton reviving the Monterey, originally designed by Gae Aulenti, now limited to 188 yellow-gold pieces. Maghnam stirs the avant-garde pot with two futuristic designs under €10,000. And Raymond Weil gets poetic with a Japan-exclusive moonphase inspired by NASA imagery.
In hands-on territory, Patek Philippe’s Reference 5316/50P continues to impress as a platinum tour de force, while Unimatic’s Modello Uno Prodiver 600m keeps it clean, functional, and frill-free in titanium for under two grand.
Finally, on the auction block, a 2014 Patek Philippe 5960P-016 is sitting at $45,000—far below its typical range. With platinum heft, black dial swagger, and that legendary annual calendar chronograph layout, it’s a modern classic with some bidding life left in it.
News Time
WatchCharts Overall Market Index is Flat Year-Over-Year
Flatline or Comeback? Watch Market Ends Year Right Where It Started
It’s been a wild ride, but the WatchCharts Overall Market Index has officially completed a full circle. After tumbling to a low of 38,781 in March, the index staged a slow, determined rally through the summer, climbing steadily to hit 40,020 on October 1st—just 12 points shy of where it was one year ago. That’s right: despite all the drama, tariffs, and price hikes, the secondary watch market is exactly flat year-over-year. Not down. Not up. Just… holding.
Short-term momentum, however, tells a different story. The past 6 months have seen a +1.9% gain, and the last 3 months a respectable +1.5%. Even the 1-month change is in the green at +0.6%, signaling that collector sentiment might be firming up after a volatile year. But zoom out further, and the index still carries scars: it’s down -5.8% over two years and up a mere +0.2% over the last 12 months.
Still, if you’ve been in the game for a while, the long-term picture is far rosier. Since inception, the index has climbed a whopping +68.2%, with an annualized average growth rate of +7.5%. That’s a stronger return than most hedge funds—and with better wrist presence.
So where do we go from here? October starts with the index at its highest point in over a year. If you’re a collector who rode the dip and held the line, pat yourself on the back. The watch market may not be soaring, but it’s alive, steady, and ticking upward—for now.
Customs Officers Seize Nearly 17,000 Counterfeit Wristwatches
Officers from the Burgas Customs Territorial Directorate intercepted 16,995 counterfeit wristwatches during an inspection of a container transiting from China to Turkiye. The Customs Agency confirmed a violation of intellectual property rights, and the brand owner affirmed the infringement. The seized goods will be destroyed under customs control at the owner’s expense. Burgas Customs has confiscated nearly one million counterfeit items this year, underscoring ongoing enforcement against illicit trade.
The Rolex Worn by the First British Woman to Swim the English Channel Could Fetch $1.3 Million
Mercedes Gleitze’s vintage Rolex Oyster, worn during her 1927 “vindication swim,” is headed to Sotheby’s Geneva with estimates exceeding $1.3 million. Gleitze had successfully crossed the Channel earlier that month and attempted the second crossing to validate her achievement, wearing the watch tied around her neck. Though she abandoned the swim after over ten hours due to poor conditions, the watch’s performance cemented Rolex’s waterproof claims. The piece bears an engraving commemorating the swim and marks a pivotal moment in the history of tool watches.
This 1970s Watch Trend Proves We Still Love A Pretty Face
Hard‑stone dials from the 1970s are enjoying a revival, with brands like H. Moser, Piaget, Chopard, and Rolex reinterpreting natural materials in contemporary designs. Lapis, jade, tiger’s eye, and coral are no longer period curiosities but celebrated for their vibrant colors and craftsmanship. These reissues blend art and utility, elevating the aesthetic dimension of modern watchmaking. The renewed focus highlights how material storytelling can feel fresh decades later.
Feature Time
Who Is Abraham-Louis Breguet? — Get To Know The World’s Most Famous Watchmaker
Abraham‑Louis Breguet, born in 1747, transformed watchmaking with inventions like the tourbillon and the first wristwatch. Trained in mathematics and physics, he earned royal patronage in France and built a workshop renowned for technical and aesthetic excellence. His innovations ranged from guilloché dials to the subscription watch, expanding access to fine timepieces. Despite exile during the French Revolution, he returned to Paris and continued to innovate until his death in 1823, leaving a lasting horological legacy.
Inside The Manufacture: Minerva Is The Watchmaking Jewel Within Montblanc And Showcases Its Talents With A New Art Piece
Minerva, Montblanc’s historic atelier in Villeret, is famed for meticulous, small‑batch craftsmanship, including in‑house balance springs. The manufacture focuses on refined chronograph movements and elegant finishing, delivering a bespoke experience to collectors. Its latest showcase is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles Limited Edition, a narrative‑driven art piece with advanced mechanics and rich decoration. Presented with an exquisite music box, the release emphasizes storytelling, artisanal detail, and elevated ownership experience.
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Aquastar
Introducing: The Aquastar Benthos Professional
The Aquastar Benthos Professional updates the brand’s classic Benthos 500 with a more wearable, contemporary package. It features a 904L steel case with a sleek black DLC treatment and a ceramic dive bezel with X1 Super‑LumiNova for visibility. Water resistance is rated to 300 meters, and the reliable ETA 2824‑2 offers a 38‑hour power reserve. Pre‑orders start at $1,290, rising to $1,590 after the campaign.
Breitling
Breitling Unveils the Lady Premier
This article introduces the Breitling Lady Premier, outlining its aesthetic direction and where it fits within the Premier family. The piece touches on case size, dial presentation, and everyday versatility, along with movement details and bracelet or strap options. It also notes the model’s blend of vintage inspiration and modern execution. A full breakdown of specifications and availability appears in the story.
Cartier
The Ultimate Expression of the Cartier Santos Is in Titanium
Cartier adds a full‑titanium Santos that blends lightweight comfort with the line’s signature elegance. A bead‑blasted matte finish contrasts with polished accents, and a crisp white dial emphasizes legibility. This execution presents a sportier yet refined character versus earlier titanium uses at the brand. The titanium model is priced at $11,500 and is slated for availability starting November 1, 2025, alongside a black‑dial stainless steel version at $8,650.
Hamilton
Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign
Hamilton’s campaign places the Khaki line in real‑world environments to underscore utility and purpose. The Khaki Aviation X‑Wind Automatic Chronograph features a drift‑angle calculator for pilots, while the Khaki Field Automatic speaks to trail and hike scenarios. The Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic brings 300m water resistance for diving. Shot in the Swiss Alps, the visuals frame these watches as companions for everyday adventure.
Louis Vuitton
Introducing: Louis Vuitton Brings Back The Monterey
Louis Vuitton revives the Monterey, originally designed by Gae Aulenti, in a refined 39mm yellow‑gold format with a white Grand Feu enamel dial. Limited to 188 pieces, it runs on the in‑house LFT MA01.02 automatic movement and adopts a cleaner aesthetic than past versions. The enamel work and simplified lines shift the focus to craftsmanship and legibility. Priced at $59,000, it will be available through LV boutiques and select retailers worldwide.
Maghnam
Hands-On With The Futuristic Maghnam Noor And Mohareb
Maghnam debuts two inventive designs that lean into avant‑garde mechanics at accessible prices. The Noor uses a Grade 5 titanium shell to conceal the dial, revealing the time at the press of a button. The Mohareb draws from warrior motifs, with a double‑retrograde layout and modular, customizable elements. Priced at CHF 8,700 (Noor) and CHF 6,500 (Mohareb), both aim at enthusiasts seeking distinctive concepts under €10,000.
Raymond Weil
Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase
This 35mm limited edition of 100 pieces pairs a two‑tone silver and slate‑blue dial with a moonphase display based on NASA imagery. Vintage cues like a chamfered bezel and classic lugs meet modern durability via sapphire crystal. The RW4280 automatic movement provides a 41‑hour power reserve. Priced around ¥462,000 (CHF 2,500), it blends historical inspiration with a contemporary twist.
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Benjamin James
Hands-on with the Benjamin James Scarifour Burnt Orange Agate
This hands‑on piece focuses on the Benjamin James Scarifour in Burnt Orange Agate, highlighting its design language and distinctive dial material. The coverage centers on craftsmanship, case finishing, and on‑wrist impressions, with attention to how the color and textures play in different lighting. It also contextualizes the model within the brand’s broader approach to materials and value. Key specifications and pricing details are discussed in the full story.
Patek Philippe
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Reference 5316/50P Is The Brand At Its Best
The Reference 5316/50P blends historical significance, intricate design, and real-world wearability into a single, pinnacle expression of the brand. Launched in 2023, it pairs a retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater with a 40.2mm platinum case. A sapphire dial improves legibility while preserving a refined aesthetic, underscoring Patek Philippe’s incremental design discipline. Produced in extremely small numbers and priced around $1.2 million, it has rapidly become one of the most coveted pieces in the catalog.
Unimatic
Hands-On: Unimatic’s Modello Uno Prodiver 600m Is All Titanium, No Frills, And Better For It
The Modello Uno Prodiver 600m is a limited edition titanium dive watch that pairs minimalist design with serious function. It delivers 600 meters of water resistance, bold legibility on a matte black dial, and a sandblasted case with drilled lugs for practicality. Inside, the Sellita SW200‑1 automatic movement offers 41 hours of power reserve, while an unobtrusive date keeps the dial clean. Priced at $1,900, it presents strong value and a sleek, tool‑forward aesthetic, though limited availability may affect long‑term market presence.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
2014 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Black Dial Leather Strap (5960P 016)
Auction Report: Patek’s Platinum Powerhouse Lurks Below Retail
The bidding has begun on a 2014 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 5960P-016, and as of late Monday night, it’s sitting at $45,000—well below its historical sales range of $51,000 to $108,000, according to EveryWatch. That suggests either a sleepy virtual auction room or an opportunity brewing. There’s still time on the clock, and a lot of headroom left before we hit even the lower end of fair market value.
The 5960P holds a special place in modern Patek lore. Introduced in 2006, it was the brand’s first in-house self-winding chronograph movement and the first to combine a chronograph with an annual calendar. This particular reference, clad in platinum with a sharp black dial, is one of the later variations, showcasing the model’s evolution into a stealth-luxury powerhouse. It wears larger than its 40.5mm case suggests thanks to the hefty platinum case and wide dial aperture, yet it remains perfectly proportioned for daily wear—assuming your daily includes boardrooms or black-tie affairs.
The dial layout, with its signature mono-counter chronograph and full triple-window calendar display, manages to balance utility and elegance, while the day/night indicator sneaks in just enough playfulness to keep it interesting. This example comes with its box, papers, and some additional items, and the seller claims it’s in very good condition.
There’s a certain satisfaction in seeing a modern classic like the 5960P come up for auction—especially when the bidding starts with a wink. Keep your number pad warm. This one’s not done yet.