BuyingTime Daily - October 6, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The stage is set for Dubai Watch Week 2025, with a record-breaking 90 brands, and a keynote from Rolex CEO Jean‑Frédéric Dufour promising industry insight at the highest level. Free to attend and community-oriented, the event’s expanded venue and schedule underscore Dubai’s growing relevance as horology’s next big cultural epicenter. With Breitling and Audemars Piguet leaders joining the new executive roundtable, we’re expecting bold opinions and bolder watches.
Speaking of bold, IWC is heading to space. The brand is now the official timekeeper for Vast’s Haven‑1 commercial space station. Mechanical watches in microgravity? Count us in. We’re eager to see how their prototypes perform in orbit—a test of both engineering and ambition.
Back on Earth, A. Lange & Söhne has released two new Saxonia Thin models with glossy onyx dials, while also flexing its technical muscles with the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in pink gold. Armin Strom went verdant with a guilloché-green Tribute 1, and Audemars Piguet closed out its RD series with the mind-bending Royal Oak RD#5: a flying tourbillon flyback chrono in a case just 8.1 mm thick.
Citizen dropped two new Series 8 models inspired by the geometry of cities, while G-Shock’s latest GBD-200 looks like the offspring of an OG square and a Timex Ironman—just $172 for peak durability and tracking tech. Meanwhile, Hublot continues to 3D-carbon everything in sight with its Square Bang Tourbillon, now boasting 4 days of power reserve and a $110,000 sticker. Not to be outdone, IFL Watches went playful, turning the Citizen Tsuyosa into a pastel jigsaw puzzle with one-of-a-kind, hand-painted dials.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has issued a refined Master Control Calendar with a granular two-tone dial, while Orient Star leans elegant with a mother-of-pearl moonphase and silicon tech under the hood. Seiko tapped into vintage vibes with a solar panda chronograph that screams affordable cool at under €900. Unimatic unveiled a Japan-exclusive U2-JDM with a quirky California dial, and a tough-as-nails attitude.
To wrap it up, RZE introduced a titanium solar field watch—the Urbanist BubbleGum—that lives up to its name with a light pink dial and a bouncy new strap. And if you’re still wondering whether we need watches in 2025, the answer is yes. Not just because they tell time, but because they tell stories—of heritage, design, milestones, and the occasional spacewalk.
See you tomorrow in orbit… or at the boutique.
News Time
Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote | SJX Watches
Dubai Watch Week 2025 runs November 19–23 at a new venue by Dubai Mall and will feature 90 brands, a 50% increase over 2023. Rolex CEO Jean‑Frédéric Dufour will deliver a keynote on the industry’s future, anchoring a program of 50+ sessions spanning luxury branding, independents, and sustainability. A new chief executive roundtable brings leaders from major houses, including Breitling and Audemars Piguet, into direct conversation. Entry is free with registration, underscoring the event’s open, community-forward positioning.
To Boldly Go: IWC Becomes the Official Timekeeper of Space Habitation Technology Company Vast
IWC has been named the official timekeeper for Vast’s Haven‑1 commercial space station, aligning fine watchmaking with future space habitation. The collaboration will focus on adapting mechanical timekeeping for the rigors of long‑duration missions and microgravity. IWC plans to test prototypes on Earth before launch, with the goal of validating performance in orbit. The partnership signals escalating cross‑industry innovation as spaceflight moves into a new commercial phase.
Feature Time
Why We Still Need Watches
Watches remain relevant in a digital age because they combine style, practicality, and tradition in a way smartphones do not. They offer quick, unobtrusive access to time while serving as personal accessories that enhance individual style, from classic mechanical pieces to modern smart and hybrid designs. Many also carry sentimental weight, marking milestones and achievements, and showcase artisanal craftsmanship that connects wearers to longstanding horological heritage. Even beyond timekeeping, features like health tracking or simple daily utility make them enduring companions.
The Latest Time
A. Lange & Söhne
New Release: A. Lange & Sӧhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Dial Watches
A. Lange & Söhne revisits the minimalist Saxonia Thin with two limited editions featuring glossy black onyx stone dials in Honey Gold or platinum, each limited to 200 pieces. At 6.2 mm thick and 40 mm across, the watches balance refined proportions with everyday practicality. Inside is the hand-wound Caliber L093.1 with a 72-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback. Elegant materials, restrained design, and high-end finishing define this release.
Armin Strom
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Green, A Verdant Recasting of Visible Mechanics
The Tribute 1 Green reinterprets Armin Strom’s modern dress watch with a vivid green dial and off-center time display. Its 38 mm steel case measures just 9.38 mm thick and features brushed and polished surfaces, plus an unconventional crown at 2 o’clock. The hand-wound AMW21 delivers an impressive 100-hour power reserve and crisp chronometric performance. Limited to 50 pieces, it blends artisanal guilloché touches with contemporary mechanics.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Final Watch of Its RD Series: The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5
Marking the finale of AP’s RD series, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” RD#5 integrates a flying tourbillon with a flyback chronograph in an ultra-slim 8.1 mm profile. New Caliber 8100 improves energy management, enabling ultra-sensitive pushers and a rare jump-minute counter. Limited to 150 pieces, it celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary with a technical and aesthetic milestone. The design sets the stage for AP’s next era of high-complication thinness.
Citizen
Citizen Releases Two New Series 8 Limited Editions Inspired by Cityscapes
Citizen expands Series 8 with limited editions that channel urban light and architecture. The 880 Mechanical Limited Edition features a gradient dial and GMT-capable Cal. 9054, while the 890 models use geometric dials powered by Cal. 9051. All offer 200 m water resistance and robust daily-wear specs. Editions are limited, with pricing positioned under $1,700 depending on the model.
G-Shock
This Sporty Watch Is Like G-Shock Mashed-Up Its Legendary Original with a Timex Ironman
The G-Squad GBD-200-1A1JF mixes the classic square DNA with modern training features. A compact 45.9 mm case improves wearability while maintaining the rugged aesthetic. GPS sync, distance and calorie tracking, and 200 m water resistance make it gym and pool ready. It launches at roughly $172, emphasizing value for everyday athletes.
Hublot
Hands-On: Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve 3D Carbon Watch
Hublot’s Square Bang Tourbillon pairs a 42 mm 3D carbon square case with the manual-wind HUB6023 and a 96-hour reserve. The watch is lightweight, ergonomic, and showcases an open architecture with a prominent tourbillon. Quick personalization comes via the One-Click strap system and patterned rubber strap. Priced at $110,000 USD, it joins Hublot’s core collection rather than a limited run.
IFL Watches
IFL Watches Gives The Citizen Tsuyosa A Playful Puzzle Makeover
IFL transforms the Citizen Tsuyosa into a colorful, hand-painted art piece with unique puzzle dials. Each of the 200 watches is one-of-a-kind, symbolizing community and connection among enthusiasts. Offered in 37 mm pastel pink and 40 mm turquoise, they keep the Tsuyosa’s automatic spec and 50 m water resistance. Priced at $890 USD, the collection officially launches on October 6, 2025.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone
This 40 mm limited edition (500 pieces) refines the Master Control Calendar with a richly textured sector dial in silver and grey. Powered by cal. 866 with a silicon escapement, it delivers 70 hours of reserve and the signature jumping date pointer that clears the moon phase. At 10.95 mm thin, it blends classic mid-century cues with modern engineering. Priced at about US$15,300, it comes on a calfskin strap for versatile wear.
Orient Star
Orient Star’s Manual-Wind Moon Phase is Slick and Silicon
The M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase leans into a cleaner aesthetic with a solid dial and refined complications. A mother-of-pearl moon disc adds depth, while the new F8A62 movement brings a 70-hour reserve and a silicon escape wheel. The watch is offered in a grey gradient limited edition and a white dial variant. Pricing lands around $3,040 to $3,280, depending on configuration.
Seiko
Seiko’s Affordable New ‘Motoring’ Chronograph Is Dripping with Vintage Rolex Panda Vibes
Seiko’s Prospex Speedtimer ‘Motoring’ channels retro racing with a cream panda dial and steel bezel. The limited edition uses a solar quartz chronograph with 100 m water resistance for reliable daily use. It includes both an Oyster-style bracelet and a tan rally strap for instant style changes. European pricing is €860, with the UK at £730.
Unimatic
Unimatic’s First Japan-Exclusive Watch Utilizes a Coveted, Uncommon Dial Detail
The Unimatic U2-JDM debuts as a Japan-exclusive with a California dial mixing Roman and Arabic numerals. A 38 mm brushed steel case houses the NH35A automatic with a 41-hour reserve, rated to 300 m water resistance. The design merges military and dive-watch influences and ships on a black nylon strap. Limited to 100 pieces, it targets collectors who value distinctive dial layouts.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial
A striking solid 18k pink gold dial elevates the technically sophisticated Richard Lange Jumping Seconds. The regulator-style display is paired with deadbeat seconds, a constant-force mechanism, and a low-power reserve indicator within a compact 39.9 mm white gold case. Limited to 100 pieces and priced around US$108,000, it highlights Lange’s precision engineering and finishing at the highest level. Collectors will appreciate the rare combination of aesthetic warmth and mechanical rigor. [1]
RZE
Hands-On: RZE Urbanist BubbleGum Solar Field Watch
The Urbanist BubbleGum brings playful color to a rugged, city-ready solar field watch with a light pink dial and white handset. Its titanium case keeps weight down, while the new elastic strap improves comfort and everyday wearability. Powered by the Miyota 2070 solar quartz movement, it offers a four-month reserve, 100 m water resistance, and a cambered sapphire crystal over a tidy chapter ring that reveals the solar cells. At $295, it blends utility, durability, and a fun aesthetic for both urban life and outdoor escapes. [2]
Watching Time
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: Quest of Time
In episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock and its companion wristwatch, Tudor’s first moon phase complication, and Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour’s keynote at Dubai Watch Week. They also cover Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026 and Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform. Listen Now >
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 38MM White Gold Dial Leather Strap (5088/100P-001)
Auction Report: Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 38MM White Gold Dial Leather Strap (5088/100P-001
Current Bid: $14,000 Ends 10:34 pm EDT October 6, 2025
The seller represents this timepiece as being in very good condition. It includes a box and archive papers.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts (5088/100P-001) features a 38mm platinum case with hand-engraved and black enameled flanks and a single diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock, paired with a matching smooth bezel. Its hand-engraved and black enameled white gold dial presents an elegant design and a time only configuration sporting white gold dauphine-style hands. It is complemented by a leather strap fastened with a platinum buckle, for a classic and elegant fit. Bod now to add this exquisite Patek Philippe to your collection!
Buyers shipping the watch to NY will be required to pay applicable sales tax of up to 8.875% in addition to the purchase price of the watch to the seller.