BuyingTime Daily - October 30, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 30, 2025
Dubai is about to become the center of the horological universe — again — and this time Rolex is stepping out from behind the curtain. CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour will take the stage at Dubai Watch Week in a talk boldly titled “The Time to Act is Now,” which sounds either like a motivational keynote or the moment he reveals they’re making titanium Day-Dates for everyone. With Audemars Piguet, Hublot, and 90-plus brands joining, the fair is shaping up to be a public, free-to-enter flex for Dubai as the new watch capital.
Meanwhile, Citizen continues to remind everyone that they’ve been quietly mastering materials since bell-bottoms were a thing. Their new Attesa Platinum Shine series in recrystallised titanium — with satellite GPS, solar tech, and durability for days — proves they still lead the titanium frontier, a legacy reinforced in a deep dive tracing their innovations back to the 1970 X-8. Leave it to Citizen to make space-age metallurgy feel like everyday practicality.
Back in Geneva, a new Rolex patent suggests an annual calendar that flips day, date, and month at midnight — instantly. Think Sky-Dweller, but with a wink toward the brand’s 1950s triple-calendar heritage. Expect jaws to drop at Watches & Wonders in April. In collector-culture land, a survey of the priciest names in watchmaking unsurprisingly crowns Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin, while independent masters like Philippe Dufour and Rexhep Rexhepi continue to zip past the establishment in enthusiast heart rates.
Speaking of independents, Berneron’s founder Sylvain Berneron says he’s designing not just watches, but stories on the wrist — a poetic line that feels earned when you look at his work. And the late Thomas Engel, chemist, inventor, and Breguet obsessive, gets a well-deserved portrait as the sort of scholar-collector who made watch enthusiasm feel like a science, not a spectacle.
On the release front, Breguet celebrates its 250th birthday with magnetic-pivot precision and classical moonphase romance, Herbelin militarizes its Cap Camarat, Hermès creates a miniature-painted platinum tourbillon inspired by an antique jacket (because of course they did), Louis Erard doubles down on integrated bracelets, Omega counts down to Milano Cortina 2026 with a snowy 38mm Speedmaster, and Raymond Weil preps for its own milestone with an oval-case capsule collection. It’s a good week for brands proving they know exactly who they are.
Reviews highlight the Bell & Ross BR-03 Compass with built-in navigation tricks, a hand-hammered Casio G-Shock MR-G that might be the dressiest stealth watch of the year, a luminous sailor-ready Delma Oceanmaster, a crisp-spec Hanhart panda chrono, the slim and architectural Möels & Co 528 S2, and a refined Raymond Weil Toccata. For those seeking drama, Roger Dubuis answers with a pink-gold skeleton flyback that’s louder than a racetrack pit lane, while Seiko goes vintage-panda in a Europe-only Speedtimer that collectors are already emailing friends in Paris about.
The internet is busy arguing about Submariners again, debating whether Grand Seiko has conquered Switzerland (spoiler: ask a spring drive fan), and ranking which watches you should never buy — usually the ones already in someone’s watch box.
In auction land, Wednesday’s A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia stalled below reserve at $10,200. However, tonight’s real theater is the no-reserve 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II “Batgirl” (126710BLNR), a full-set early example currently sitting at $14,000. If you’ve ever wanted a midnight-blue bezel without waiting in a boutique, tonight might be your moment — just try not to bid against yourself in the final six seconds. Happy hunting, and happy timing.
News Time
Rolex CEO set to speak at Dubai Watch Week
Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour will join industry leaders at Dubai Watch Week for a session titled “The Time to Act is Now — A Note to the Watch Industry,” moderated by Abdul Hamied Seddiqi. The event runs November 19–23 at Burj Park by the Burj Khalifa and marks the fair’s 10th anniversary. With free public access, it will feature new products from 90 brands, spanning established houses and micro-brands, along with discussions led by executives including Audemars Piguet’s Ilaria Resta and Hublot’s Julien Tornare. Organizers aim to cement Dubai’s role as a global watch hub with expanded programming and activities.
Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium
Citizen debuts the Attesa Platinum Shine collection, three limited editions that showcase the brand’s titanium know-how with a new platinum-hued, recrystallised titanium bracelet and near scratch-proof Duratect coating. The lineup includes advanced Eco-Drive solar movements, headlined by the satellite-linked F950 for rapid, accurate time signal reception and world time functionality. All models share an engraved dial motif echoing the bracelet’s texture and bring robust specs like water resistance to daily wear. Though priced above $1,000, the collection emphasizes high value through materials, finishing, and technology.
New Rolex Patent Shows Annual Calendar Mechanism
A newly surfaced Rolex patent outlines an annual calendar that instantly switches the date, day, and month at midnight, improving legibility and ease of use. The mechanism recognizes 30- and 31-day months via a program wheel and employs dual discs for weekdays and months, recalling the brand’s 1950s triple calendars. Rolex is expected to unveil the system at Watches and Wonders on April 14, 2026, potentially as a Sky-Dweller evolution or a vintage-inspired revival. The approach balances energy efficiency with a visually engaging display that could influence future models.
Feature Time
Expensive Watch Brands: The Priciest 25 Names to Know
A survey of ultra-high-end watchmaking spans the “Holy Trinity” of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin, alongside independents like Philippe Dufour and F.P. Journe. Patek Philippe dominates value and collectability, with typical prices from $20,000 to $400,000 and record-setting auction results. Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke approach can near eight figures, while Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak reshaped the luxury sports category. Rising independents such as Petermann Bédat and Rexhep Rexhepi continue to diversify the top tier of collecting.
In-Depth: 55 Years After Bringing it First to Market, Citizen is Still the Master of Titanium
Citizen’s titanium leadership dates back to the 1970 X-8 Chronometer and decades of solving the material’s manufacturing challenges. The brand’s Super-Titanium advances deliver lightweight, hypoallergenic, and scratch-resistant cases with refined finishing. Recent exhibits showcased limited editions with artisanal washi paper dials and the accessible Zenshin 60 Automatic line. The throughline is high quality at competitive pricing, cementing Citizen’s role as a titanium pioneer.
Interview With Sylvain Berneron, Founder and CEO of Berneron Watches
Sylvain Berneron details a design-driven vision that merges traditional craft with modern form, aiming to create watches that tell stories as well as time. The discussion explores how Berneron carved a niche in a competitive market through quality, detail, and clear identity. He shares inspirations behind recent collections and the philosophy shaping future work. Collectors gain a window into both the creative process and the brand’s trajectory.
Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel
Thomas Engel’s path from wartime Leipzig to pioneering polymer chemist mirrors his meticulous, research-heavy approach to collecting. Known as a “modern Edison” with more than a hundred patents, he applied a problem-solving mindset to horology, emphasizing provenance and scholarship. His focus on Breguet and relationships with dealers and scholars yielded notable acquisitions and insights. Engel’s legacy also includes the book Breguet: Thoughts on Time, bridging connoisseurship and academic rigor.
The Latest Time
Breguet
The Return of THE Breguet: The Maison Pays Tribute to Its Founding Principles with Two New Classique Models
Breguet marks its 250th anniversary with two Classique references that underscore the brand’s historic strengths in precision and design. The Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225 employs a high-frequency escapement with a magnetic pivot for exceptional accuracy. The Classique Phase de Lune 7235 echoes pocket watch-era layouts and is driven by a slim self-winding caliber. Both models feature Breguet gold construction and hand-guilloché dials, with the 7235 limited to 250 pieces.
Herbelin
Herbelin’s Cap Camarat Gets Military Makeover
Herbelin expands Cap Camarat with a square, 39 mm, 316L steel case paired to a khaki dial and matching FKM rubber strap. The marinière stripe motif, luminous hands, and applied markers keep legibility high, with the date at 6 o’clock. A Swiss Sellita SW200-1 delivers a 41-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire back. Water resistance to 100 m and assembly in-house reflect more than 75 years of French watchmaking at an accessible €950.
Hermes
Introducing: The New Slim d’Hermès Tourbillon Neo Brandebourgs
This limited edition Slim d’Hermès blends minimalist platinum casework with a dial inspired by a 19th-century military jacket. Designed by Daiske Nomura, the hand-engraved and miniature-painted dial depicts two colorways, with a tourbillon at 7 o’clock framed by the intertwined “Hs.” The ultra-thin H1950T automatic movement provides a 48-hour power reserve in a 39.5 mm case. Limited to 24 pieces with alligator straps, it retails for EUR 130,000.
Louis Erard
Introducing: Louis Erard 2340. A New Chapter in Integrated Bracelet Watch Design.
The 2340 debuts as a core integrated-bracelet design named for Le Noirmont’s postal code. Its bracelet combines 92 components in brushed titanium and polished steel for comfort and visual depth, paired with a 40 mm case that mixes titanium mid-case with polished steel elements. Three dial variations feature oblong textures and floating markers, powered by the Sellita SW300-1 with a ~56-hour reserve. Priced at CHF 2,990 (about USD 3,750), it is not limited, signaling a long-term collection pillar.
Omega
The 2026 Winter Olympics are 100 Days Away, and Omega Has a New Speedmaster to Celebrate
To mark 100 days until Milano Cortina 2026, Omega unveils a 38 mm Speedmaster with a snowy white dial and blue accents reflecting the Games’ identity. The gradient chronograph hand adds a wintry flourish, while the Caliber 3330 automatic supplies over 50 hours of power reserve. At $6,800 and not limited, it’s designed for daily wear without shouting “special edition.” Omega’s Olympic timing heritage since 1932 informs a design that stands on its own.
Introducing: Omega Counts Down 100 Days Until The Winter Olympics With The Speedmaster 38mm Milano Cortina 2026 - Read More >
Raymond Weil
Ahead of Its 50th Anniversary Year, Raymond Weil Introduces the Toccata Heritage Capsule Collection
A nine-style capsule mixes quartz and mechanical references, softening previous rectangular signatures with an oval case suited to a wide range of wrists. Quartz models capture classic flair in steel and gold PVD variants with multiple dials and strap options. Mechanical versions take a subtler palette, highlighted by a rose gold PVD piece and a movement that visually “ovals” through the display back. Priced from $1,450 to $2,625, the collection underscores the brand’s accessible approach as it approaches its 50th year.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bell & Ross
New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-03 Compass :
Bell & Ross introduces the BR-03 Compass, a limited edition with a 42 mm rounded-square steel case and a bi‑colour bezel that displays 0–12 and 12–24 hours. Its dial integrates a peripheral compass marked with cardinal points, while SuperLuminova-coated hands preserve legibility in low light. Powered by the BR‑Cal.303 (ETA 2893 base), it features a double‑headed GMT hand for multi‑zone tracking. The red GMT hand can be aligned with the sun to use the built-in compass, blending tool-watch function with distinctive design.
Casio G-Shock
Casio G-Shock MRGB5000HT-1 Watch Review: Discreet Hand-Hammered Luxury Meets Practicality
The MR-G MRGB5000HT-1 fuses traditional Tsuiki hand-hammering by Kazuya Watanabe with cutting-edge functionality in a limited run of 500 pieces. Crafted in hardened DAT55G titanium, it retains the classic digital G-Shock look while elevating durability and finish. Tech includes Bluetooth, Tough Solar charging, and atomic timekeeping, emphasizing reliability in a premium package. Hand-assembled in Japan, it targets collectors who value artistry, resilience, and understated luxury.
Delma
Hands-On: The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing
Built for sailors, the Oceanmaster Lume pairs a 44 mm cushion case and 500 m water resistance with a fully luminous dial for night use. A unique 360° nautical bezel aids course setting and maneuver timing, expanding the watch’s toolset beyond typical divers. Inside is the Sellita SW200‑1 automatic for dependable performance and easy servicing. Offered in vibrant pastel tones and priced accessibly, it balances functionality, durability, and distinctive style.
Hanhart
Does the Hanhart 415 ES Panda deliver top spec for money?
This 39 mm stainless steel chronograph channels vintage aesthetics with a white “panda” dial, black sub‑registers, and a scratch‑resistant ceramic bezel. At 13.5 mm thick and 100 m water resistant, it remains wearable and versatile, aided by a tool‑free clasp adjustment on the bracelet. The hand‑wound Sellita SW510 M provides a robust 58‑hour power reserve and crisp chronograph action. With competitive pricing on strap or bracelet, it offers strong specifications and craft for enthusiasts.
Moels & Co
Hands-On With The Möels & Co 528 S2 Vistamare
Möels & Co’s 528 S2 Vistamare adopts a slim 42 × 32 mm rectangular steel case at just 8.7 mm thick, paired with the hand‑wound La Joux‑Perret D101 and a 50‑hour reserve. Its Astra dial layout arrives in five colorways, bringing a retro‑modern character that stands out on the wrist. Water resistance is 50 m, and strap options include Epsom leather or rubber for range across styles. Available for pre‑order at £1,350 before rising to £1,650, it targets collectors seeking an original design language.
Raymond Weil
Raymond Weil Toccata
The Toccata refines classical dress-watch codes with an elegant oval case in multiple sizes and PVD finishes in steel, rose, or yellow gold tones. Dials are clean and sunray‑finished, with unobtrusive layouts that suit formal settings. A slim profile is maintained across mechanical and quartz versions, while strap choices span calf leather to a five‑link bracelet. Priced from $1,195 to $2,625, it channels the ambience of concert halls with accessible luxury.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph Pink Gold
A bold 45 mm pink gold case frames the RD780 calibre with flyback functionality, rotating disc minute counter, and a second braking system for precision. Skeletonised lugs and an infinity symbol on the dial heighten the dramatic aesthetic typical of the Maison. Practicality is supported by a sporty rubber strap with a quick‑release system for easy changes. Priced at £120,500 as a limited edition, it underscores Roger Dubuis’ fusion of high horology and radical design.
Seiko
Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition
This Europe-only, 2,700‑piece Speedtimer solar chronograph takes cues from 1960s Seiko racing watches, sized at a compact 39 mm in stainless steel. The V192 solar movement offers a six‑month reserve and adds a 24‑hour sub‑dial and date for daily practicality. A cream “panda” dial with gray registers delivers vintage charm without sacrificing legibility, and 100 m water resistance broadens use. Bundled with a steel bracelet and tan racing strap, it’s a versatile, characterful everyday chrono.
Watching Time
When the Previous-Generation Rolex is the Better Buy
How Grand Seiko Defeated the Swiss At Their Own Game
Why I sold the Rolex Submariner 16610LN
A NEW Era In Watchmaking BEGINS! - TIME at The Bench. Episode1!
10 Watches You’ll Lose Money On
The Five Watches You Should NEVER Buy!
If I Could Only Keep One Watch… It’d Be This One
My Top 5 ‘Exit’ Watches – The One To END It All.
Talking Time
The SUPERLATIVE Podcast: Tamas Piros On Modernizing The Watch Collector’s Experience With WatchAnchor - Listen now
The Business of Watches Podcast: Frederique Constant CEO Niels Eggerding On Why He’s Fighting To Keep FC’s Perpetual Calendar Under $10,000 - Listen now
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, t2015 A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (216.032)- was bid to only $10,200, but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
No Reserve - 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II “Batgirl” 40MM Black Dial Jubilee Bracelet (126710BLNR)
Auction Report: “Final Call — No Reserve on the 2019 Rolex GMT‑Master II ‘Batgirl’ 126710BLNR (40 mm) Full Set”
This evening, at precisely 8:20 p.m. ET on October 30, 2025, a no-reserve auction will culminate for the 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II “Batgirl” reference 126710BLNR, offered by the seller in what is represented as “very good” condition. The watch, dated June 27 2019 on its papers, has been resized but the removed links are included — an important detail for collectors eager to restore the bracelet to full original length. The full complement of boxes (inner and outer), additional items, and papers accompany the watch, making this a full-set offering that tends to command premium interest.
The 126710BLNR occupies a particularly desirable position in the pantheon of modern Rolex sports watches. What began as the “Batman” blue/black-bezel GMT-Master II (ref. 116710BLNR) in 2013 evolved in 2019 into the Jubilee-bracelet version, reference 126710BLNR — informally dubbed “Batgirl” by the collector community to distinguish the Jubilee bracelet variant. Rolex’s own spec sheet confirms that this model features a 40 mm Oystersteel case, black dial, and a bi-colour Cerachrom insert bezel in blue and black ceramic along with a 24-hour GMT hand and bidirectional rotating bezel for dual-time functionality. Over the years the “Batgirl” has emerged as a must-have for many enthusiasts for its blend of sport-watch utility, everyday wearability, and scarcity (especially in the earlier production years). The Jubilee bracelet gives this piece a distinctive, somewhat dress-sport feel that differentiates it from the Oyster-bracelet “Batman” version, and that variation has driven collector interest.
From a valuation standpoint, the current market for the 126710BLNR is robust. According to WatchCharts, the model shows a market listing average around US $18,000 and listings have ranged from approximately $16,000 to upward of $22,000 in recent periods. WatchGuys cites a similar benchmark, listing an average price of around US $18,178 as of May 2025. The model’s market volatility is relatively low — about 5.7 % as of late October 2025, indicating a tighter spread of prices compared with many other steel luxury watches. Given these data points, the auction underway tonight presents a compelling opportunity: given no reserve, the final price could dip below typical market levels, but full-set provenance and condition may support a healthy result.
Turning to the particulars of the piece at hand: the date of the papers, June 2019, means this is from early in the 126710BLNR production run — an advantage in provenance and potentially collector desirability. The inclusion of boxes and removed links means the watch is offered as a comprehensive set, which tends to enhance value by reducing buyer risk (i.e., missing links or missing box/papers often lead to discounts of 10-20% or more). The resizing itself is not a concern provided it was done professionally (and appears to have been given the link history is included). The condition described as “very good” suggests light wear consistent with use but no major damage or polish abuses; naturally, the Bennisson inspection and images should bear that out for serious bidders.
The tension is: will the hammer fall in the mid-$16,000s (which would represent a relative bargain compared with ~$18k market averages) or will competitive bidding push it toward or beyond the $20k threshold seen in some listings? Given today’s market environment where steel Rolex sports models remain highly desirable but not universally appreciating at stratospheric rates, this could be a high-value entry into a high-quality piece.
In summary: this is a standout opportunity for any collector or investor in modern sports watches to pick up the 2019 126710BLNR “Batgirl”, fully boxed and backed with papers, at a no-reserve auction ending tonight. The market data suggests a fair value around $18k, meaning anything significantly under that may represent value; conversely, anything significantly above $20k would signal full-set and condition premiums in action. Keep an eye on the final hammer and note that the no-reserve mechanics means there is no floor price — price discovery will be driven purely by bidder demand.
Current bid: $14,000
Wow, the part about Citizen's continued titanium innovation really stood out to me, and I completly agree they quietly lead that tech frontier, I suppose.