BuyingTime Daily - October 3, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Omega blinked first. The Swatch Group has quietly bumped U.S. prices on the Speedmaster and Seamaster lines to account for Trump’s latest 29% Swiss watch tariff. It’s a 6–10% increase layered atop April’s hike, meaning that Moonwatch you were eyeing at $7,300 is now $7,800. Meanwhile, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, and TAG Heuer are playing the waiting game, for now. The great pricing standoff has begun.
Over at Girard-Perregaux, a big swing: the new GP4800 automatic movement arrives to replace the 1990s-era 3000 series. It boasts a free-sprung balance, silicon escapement, and 55-hour reserve. Designed to fit across multiple case sizes, this modern calibre attempts to cement GP’s status as a serious in-house player again—if the market decides to care.
If you’re in Manhattan on October 6, Guillaume Tetu, the mad genius behind Hautlence, will speak at the Horological Society of New York. Expect tales of robot watches, spinning escapements, and a whole lot of indie spirit.
Elsewhere, Audemars Piguet launches a jaw-dropping Royal Oak RD#5 tourbillon flyback chrono in titanium, as thin as your patience during a boutique waitlist call. $326,820 if you’re asking.
G-Shock goes full monochrome on the OG square, Gérald Charles reveals a Tiger’s Eye stunner for Seddiqi, and Moser taps Pierre Gasly for two high-octane Streamliner Tourbillons (one includes a helmet and 2026 race experience). Jaeger-LeCoultre quietly drops a grained sector dial Master Control Calendar, Longines finally updates the Spirit Pilot, and Marathon refreshes the SAR tool watch lineage with the OSAR-D.
Movado, Ochs und Junior, and Porsche Design remind us that elegance, astronomy, and automotive custom builds still have their place. And if you want to time your espresso shot in style, Brew just launched a watch for that, LED animation included.
On the business front, Breitling CEO Georges Kern warns brands that hiked prices without delivering value may be in for a reckoning. Then again, he also turned Breitling into a $4 billion juggernaut, so maybe take the man seriously.
Finally, watch the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar auction on Grailzee tonight. As of last check, it sat at just $5,200—a steal for a triple calendar moonphase with boxes, papers, and 2025 warranty. Is someone about to make the Friday night score of the week? See it Now on Grailzee. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Omega pumps prices but Rolex sticks
Swatch Group raised Omega prices in the United States to offset new tariffs on Swiss watches, increasing models like the Speedmaster from $7,300 to $7,800 and the Seamaster Diver 300M from $6,800 to $7,300. The adjustments reflect a 6–10% hike following a 29% tariff imposed on August 8, on top of a previous 10% increase in April. While Omega has moved, other major brands such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, and TAG Heuer have not yet adjusted prices. The changes highlight how brands are responding differently to a rapidly shifting trade environment.
In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre
Girard-Perregaux introduced the GP4800 automatic movement to replace the longstanding 3000-series calibres from 1994. With modern architecture, a free-sprung oscillator, a silicon escapement, and a 55-hour power reserve, the calibre is designed for versatility across case sizes while honoring the brand’s Three Gold Bridges heritage. The launch signals an effort to reassert GP’s movement-making prowess amid a crowded field of suppliers and changing market dynamics. Its success will depend on how collectors and partners value in-house innovation versus third-party alternatives.
Feature Time
Happenings: Guillaume Tetu To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Guillaume Tetu, Founder and Chairman of Hautlence, will speak at the Horological Society of New York on October 6, 2025, sharing how to build an independent brand in today’s watchmaking renaissance. The talk traces the path from design to market launch, with highlights including the HL2’s rotating escapement, the Sphere, the Retrovision ’85 robot watch, and the Helix. Tetu will also outline what’s next for Hautlence, drawing on his broad industry and entrepreneurial experience. The lecture will be held at the General Society Library in Midtown Manhattan, and free tickets are required.
More Than Meets the Eye: Behind the Playful Colors of the Zenith x USM Collaboration
Zenith and USM celebrate major anniversaries with a collaborative limited edition unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025. The four colorways—green, gentian blue, golden yellow, and pure orange—pay homage to USM’s furniture design while weaving in Zenith’s watchmaking DNA. Limited to 60 pieces, each watch comes with a USM Haller-inspired box that stores up to twelve timepieces. Priced at $11,800, the set blends design heritage and craftsmanship from both Swiss houses.
The Latest Time
Audemars Piguet
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 Is The Most Jumbo Of Them All
To mark its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet unveils the 39mm titanium Royal Oak RD#5 at just 8.1mm thick, combining a flying tourbillon with a new flyback chronograph. The 150-piece limited edition debuts low-force pushers inspired by smartphone buttons and a novel rack-and-pinion reset system to improve user feel. Powered by the self-winding Calibre 8100 with a 72-hour power reserve, it offers an expansive view through the exhibition caseback. Priced at CHF 260,000, RD#5 closes the experimental RD series while pointing toward practical future innovations.
G-Shock
G-Shock’s Original Watch Finally Gets the All-Metal Monochrome Makeover It Rightfully Deserves
The GMW-B5000BT-1JF reimagines G-Shock’s original 5000 Series in all-metal with a stark monochrome aesthetic, even dropping the signature red dial outline. A negative display with gray digits over black reinforces the modern, stealthy look. The stainless steel case and bracelet house a Tough Solar quartz movement with world timer, stopwatch, and Bluetooth phone syncing. It’s available for pre-order in Japan around $600, with a U.S. release expected.
Gérald Charles
Introducing: The Gérald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye for Seddiqi
Created for Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye is limited to 20 pieces and showcases a mesmerizing Tiger’s Eye stone dial. The proprietary Brown Colormix finish on the stainless steel case complements the dial’s chatoyancy. Inside is the ultra-thin automatic calibre GCA2000 with a 50-hour power reserve, paired to a sand-colored vulcanized rubber strap. Priced at AED 94,000, it’s available exclusively through Seddiqi during Dubai Watch Week 2025.
H. Moser & Cie.
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly Limited Editions
Moser teams with F1 driver Pierre Gasly on two Streamliner Tourbillon versions in 5N red gold, each with a 40mm case and chocolate fumé dial. The rubber strap model is limited to 100 pieces at $98,500, while the ultra-limited 10-piece red gold bracelet version is $148,500 and includes a helmet replica and a 2026 experience with Gasly. The automatic flying tourbillon movement and refined Streamliner design emphasize elegance with personal motorsport touches. The collaboration adds a high-octane chapter to both Moser’s and Gasly’s legacies.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
First Look: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with Grained Sector Dial
JLC’s Master Control Calendar gains a two-tone grained sector dial for improved legibility and a vintage-cool aesthetic. The 40mm stainless steel case houses the automatic calibre 866 with a 70-hour power reserve and “1000 Hours” Control certification. Displaying date, moon phase, and day and month apertures, it’s matched to a black calfskin strap. Limited to 500 pieces at EUR 16,400, it blends traditional craftsmanship with modern performance.
Longines
Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot Offers An Update Five Years In The Making
After five years, the Spirit Pilot line returns with a more wearable 39mm time-only model and a Flyback chronograph. The cleaner dial removes the five stars and the date, addressing enthusiast feedback. The time-only model uses COSC-certified L888.4 with a 72-hour reserve, while the Flyback runs a hand-wound L792.4 with 68 hours. Priced at $3,100 and $5,500 respectively, both deliver strong finishing and thoughtful refinements.
Longines Updates Its Spirit Pilot Collection with Refined Designs and a New Movement Read More >
Marathon
OSAR-D Unit
Building on the SAR-D’s mission-ready legacy, the OSAR-D improves legibility and reliability for Search and Rescue operations. Enhanced MaraGlo lume, larger indices, and a clearer date window bolster function in adverse conditions. Available in 36mm, 41mm, and 46mm sizes with black or Arctic white dials, the lineup meets varied operational needs. The full range is now ready for customers seeking dependable tool watches.
Movado
The Movado Museum Imperiale Brings Elegance to the Everyday
Movado expands its Museum Imperiale with five models that balance refined design and daily wear. Minimalist dials with the signature dot and fluid bracelets complement 33mm and 40mm cases powered by Swiss automatics. Strong water resistance and luminous hands add practicality to the elegant package. Prices are $1,995 in steel and $2,195 with gold PVD, extending a storied design lineage.
Ochs und Junior
Introducing: Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025
This poetic 40mm Grade 5 titanium watch divides the dial into brass “day” and blue-patinated “night,” with a hammered 24k gold sun and platinum moon. Astronomical functions include sunrise and sunset times, day and night length, and moon phases, powered by Ulysse Nardin’s UN-320 automatic movement. Rhodium-plated components and blue markers accent the hand-finished design. Available for pre-order until January 6, 2026, it’s priced at CHF 11,000 (export) or CHF 11,891 (incl. VAT).
Porsche Design
Porsche Design Custom-Built Chronograph 911 Turbo S
Echoing the 911 Turbo S, this made-to-order chronograph features a titanium case with black titanium carbide coating and a COSC-certified flyback movement. Owners can customize colors to match their Turbo S, aligning car and watch aesthetics. A high-contrast black dial and tachymeter scale emphasize legibility and speed measurement. Starting at $11,292, it brings Porsche personalization to the wrist.
Praesidus
First Look: The Praesidus x The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 Limited Edition
Inspired by WWII A-11 field watches and honoring the 533rd Bomb Squadron, this 38mm stainless steel limited edition mixes period cues with modern execution. A matte black dial, embossed numerals, and rhodium-plated hands glow with Super-LumiNova for nighttime readability. Powered by the Landeron 21 and shipped with a Bonkip steel bracelet and khaki canvas strap, it’s limited to 250 pieces. Priced at EUR 695 / USD 675, pre-orders target delivery before December 20, 2025.
Seiko
Introducing: Seiko Teams Up With Bamford For The Very Vibrant SBSA315 Limited Edition
Limited to 2,025 pieces, the 42.5mm SBSA315 riffs on the SKX007 with a translucent blue dial exposing day and date discs. Silver and orange LumiBrite accents, a unidirectional bezel, and a NATO strap with luminous orange stripe amplify its playful tool-watch vibe. The automatic 4R36 runs for 41 hours and offers 100m water resistance. Available November 2025 at Seiko Boutiques for $460.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Brew
Introducing: Brew Presents The World’s First Analog-Digital Espresso Timer Watch With The Metric Digital Blend
Brew’s Metric Digital Blend pairs a retro-styled analog dial with a digital LED screen that runs a dedicated thirty-second espresso timer. The stainless steel case measures 37.5mm by 43mm and 13mm thick, with square markers and a playful coffee animation that appears at zero. A custom hybrid quartz movement powers the blend of fun and functionality aimed squarely at espresso lovers. Priced at $425, it’s a creative, conversation-starting take on everyday timing.
HP Hercules Watches
To The Top Of Everest With The HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double Barreled
Inspired by 1953 Himalayan mountaineering, this hand-wound field watch is built for altitude with a 40mm case, sapphire crystal, and 100m water resistance. Its textured, snowflake-like dial comes in colors referencing glacial phenomena and sits over a chronometer-certified movement made with Manufacture Horlogère Vallée de Joux. A double-barrel architecture ensures precision and reliability on long expeditions. Made to order for EUR 5,995 with a calfskin or suede strap and a 4–6 week lead time.
Longines
This New Chronograph Is the Best You Can Buy for Around $5,000. It’s Not Even Close
The Spirit Pilot Flyback arrives in a more wearable 39.5mm case that’s just 13.4mm thick, with a cleaner, more functional design and a countdown ceramic bezel. Inside is the hand-wound Cal. L792.4 with 68 hours of power and COSC certification, delivering standout performance for the price. Exceptional finishing and improved legibility elevate it beyond rivals like the Black Bay Chrono and Classic Avi. At $5,500, it’s positioned as a category leader among modern flybacks.
There’s a New Contender for the Best Everyday Watch on the Market
The time-only Spirit Pilot refines the formula with a 38mm steel case, a simplified dial that drops the date and five-star emblem, and strong everyday versatility. It runs the chronometer-certified L888.4 automatic movement with a 72-hour reserve for worry-free daily wear. Offered in signature black with gilt accents and multiple strap options, it balances style and practicality. Priced at $2,700 on rubber, it’s a compelling mid-tier daily driver.
Nomos
First Look: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation Series
A slim, sporty 40mm stainless steel worldtimer limited to 175 pieces, this edition features a black galvanised dial with high-contrast lume and a rotating city disc for quick time-zone jumps. It’s powered by the in-house DUW 3202 automatic with a 42-hour reserve and includes a practical water-level indicator. With 100m water resistance, it’s ready for travel and daily wear alike. Priced at EUR 3,940, it showcases the brand’s blend of function and clean design.
Norqain
Hands-On With The Norqain Wild One Skeleton 42mm Purple
This limited edition combines Norteq carbon fiber and rubber for lightness, durability, and impact resistance, paired to a curved-end rubber strap for comfort. The open-worked dial showcases purple luminous accents for bold legibility and a distinctive look. A COSC-certified NB08S automatic with a 41-hour reserve powers the 200m water-resistant case. It’s a striking, sporty choice for those who want a standout daily.
Papar
Hands-On: Papar Cenote Dive Watch
Papar’s titanium dive watch leans into playful design without losing practicality, adding whimsical color-changing hour markers to a clean 40mm, 10.9mm-thick case. Available in sand-dial titanium or rose gold PVD over black, it wears light and comfortable while keeping a cohesive aesthetic. The Miyota 9015 automatic delivers dependable performance, and water resistance is rated to 200m. At $995, it’s a distinctive alternative for collectors who prize creativity.
Watching Time
Talking Time
The Business of Watches Podcast: Breitling CEO Georges Kern Talks Growth Despite Challenges Facing The Watch Industry
Breitling CEO Georges Kern discusses the company’s significant growth since 2017, with its valuation rising from under a billion to over $4 billion. Despite current economic and political challenges in the luxury watch industry, he believes in an eventual rebound and emphasizes the importance of having the right products for new clients. Kern also addresses pricing strategies and warns brands that raised prices without justification may face difficulties. Listen Now>
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar 40MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (Q4138431)
Auction Report: Moonphase Madness? JLC Triple-Date Chrono Sits at $5,200 with Hours to Go
As the clock ticks toward Friday night’s close, a complicated beauty from Jaeger-LeCoultre is currently flying under the radar—and possibly toward a last-minute bidding frenzy. The 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar (ref. Q4138431) is live on auction and, as of Thursday night, it’s sitting at just $5,200. Yes, you read that right—$5,200 for a watch that retails at $15,400. That’s roughly one third the price of admission for a complete triple-calendar chronograph with moonphase from one of Switzerland’s most respected maisons.
This 40mm stunner boasts a silver dial, steel case, and enough complications to keep your horological heart fluttering: day and month windows, a pointer date subdial with moonphase, and two cleanly arranged chrono registers. Think dressy, brainy, and quietly flexy. It’s said to be in like new condition, and the sale includes boxes, papers dated 2025, a leather strap, and that sweet factory warranty.
So what’s the catch? There may not be one. But as always, Friday night bidding can get spicy. Will someone swoop in and snag this underpriced marvel, or are we watching the deal of the week sail past most collectors like a stealthy silver moonphase? Tune in later tonight—or better yet, place a bid and see what happens. The horological gods favor the bold.
If you’ve ever dreamed of owning a Jaeger-LeCoultre complication without the usual wallet trauma, now’s your moment. But act fast—Friday night waits for no collector. See it Now on Grailzee >