BuyingTime Daily - October 29, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 29, 2025
The luxury watch world is spinning fast today, and everyone’s talking about the Vanguart Orb, the new darling of celebrity wrists from John Mayer to Michael Jordan. With its sculptural case, tourbillon, and dual-mode winding system, the Orb has graduated from indie curiosity to status symbol, commanding up to $210,000 for a ticket into its cult circle. Meanwhile, Rolex and Cortina are celebrating seventy years of the GMT-Master with an exhibition that’s pure jet-set nostalgia—complete with the triangle-tipped hand that’s guided travelers since Pan Am ruled the skies.
Fratello kicks off its “Dress Watch Season” with a polite duel between the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (34mm) and Grand Seiko SBGH368, a battle between Teutonic minimalism and Japanese precision. Over at Hamilton, National Geographic Explorer Albert Lin leads the “Step Outside” campaign, reminding us that watches aren’t just accessories—they’re field gear for modern explorers. And speaking of exploration, Phillips is about to test the limits of horological excess with the J. Player & Son No. 11’901 Supercomplication, a 77 mm British behemoth packing every function short of a coffee maker.
Independent spirit continues to thrive, with Chronoswiss getting a well-earned spotlight for balancing tradition and individuality. A pop-culture detour shows a Casio x Back to the Future model flipping for triple retail, proving nostalgia is still the most powerful movement in collecting. There’s even a wholesome twist—a 9-year-old reviews About Time: A Children’s Guide to the History and Science of Time, giving hope that the next generation might prefer balance wheels over smartwatches.
Among new releases, Breguet celebrates 250 years with the magnetically driven Classique 7225; Fortis goes black-hole tough with its DLC-coated Stratoliner; Parmigiani Fleurier doubles down on elegance with a two-tone Tonda PF Micro-rotor; and TAG Heuer pushes carbon to its limits in the Carrera Tourbillon Extreme Sport. Rolex turns desk clocks into luxury décor, Serica adds linen dials to its refined Parade, and Vacheron Constantin delivers celestial poetry with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time.
On the review desk, Zenith dazzles with its Defy Zero G Blue Sapphire—part chronometer, part optical illusion. And at auction, yesterday’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Navy” flirted with $14,200 before falling short of reserve, while tonight’s headliner, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37mm (216.032), could quietly reward a patient bidder. The balance between hype and heritage continues to tick, reminding us why this universe of gears and glamour never sleeps.
News Time
Why The Vanguart Orb Is The Hottest Luxury Watch Right Now
The Vanguart Orb has become a status symbol among the ultra-wealthy, seen on wrists like John Mayer, Ed Sheeran, and Michael Jordan. Launched in 2024 by Swiss indie brand Vanguart, it draws on a team that has built movements for Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Beyond its striking design, the Orb packs serious engineering with a tourbillon, skeletonized movement, and dual‑mode winding selector. Priced between $180,000 and $210,000, it has quickly developed a cult following among collectors.
Time Zone to Time Zone: Rolex and Cortina Celebrate the GMT-Master
Running from October 24 to November 2, 2025, this exhibition traces the GMT‑Master’s evolution from a 1955 cockpit tool to a global icon. It highlights hallmark features like the triangle‑tipped 24‑hour hand and bi‑color rotatable bezel, as well as the 1982 shift to the GMT‑Master II with independent hour hand adjustment. The display covers milestones such as Cerachrom bezels, the return of the Jubilee bracelet, and improved visibility via Chromalight. Visitors can view a documentary and examine multiple iterations that underscore the watch’s cultural impact.
Feature Time
Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 — A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (34mm) Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368
The opening match of Fratello’s Dress Watch season pits the classic A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (34mm) against the modern Grand Seiko SBGH368. The feature compares elegance, craftsmanship, and design language to show how each watch approaches dress watch ideals. Enthusiasts can expect a friendly head‑to‑head that highlights the strengths and character of both pieces. Scheduled for October 29, 2025, it invites readers to engage and pick a favorite.
Hamilton Steps Outside With National Geographic Explorer Albert Lin
Hamilton’s “Step Outside” campaign partners with National Geographic Explorer Albert Lin, whose work blends advanced technology with archaeological discovery. Lin’s explorations span from Biblical-era Jordan to Mongolia’s search for Genghis Khan’s resting place, underscoring resilience after his life‑changing injury. He views watches as tools and heirlooms that carry stories across generations, a perspective that aligns with Hamilton’s rugged yet forward‑looking designs. The partnership connects the brand to a mission of exploration and human history.
In-Depth: J. Player & Son Supercomplication – All 77 mm of It
The J. Player & Son No. 11’901 showcases English fine watchmaking at its zenith, packing a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, alarm, and split‑seconds chronograph into a massive 77 mm 18k gold case. Originally a Swiss‑prepped ebauche, it was finished to extraordinary standards with a vitreous enamel dial and hand‑painted lettering. The piece reflects a transitional moment when English artisans competed with increasingly mechanized Swiss and American factories through complexity and craft. Estimated at CHF400,000–800,000 at Phillips, it’s a landmark of horological history.
Independent Watchmakers Spotlight: The Evolution of Chronoswiss
Chronoswiss’s journey highlights a commitment to traditional craft fused with contemporary design. The brand’s evolution illustrates how independent makers can carve a distinct identity in a crowded market. This feature traces milestones, innovations, and the philosophy that underpins the company’s aesthetic. It’s a concise primer on the role of independents in modern watchmaking.
Marty McFly’s Back to the Future watch flips for 3x retail
A Back to the Future‑linked Casio collaboration has sold for triple retail, underscoring the enduring power of pop‑culture nostalgia. The flip reflects growing crossover interest between watch enthusiasts and movie memorabilia collectors. Demand is fueled by sentiment and scarcity rather than pure specs. The sale hints at a broader appetite for culturally iconic, accessibly priced collectibles.
Review: ‘About Time: A Children’s Guide To The History And Science Of Time’
A 9‑year‑old reader reviews a kid‑friendly guide that covers sundials, hourglasses, and the leap to analog and digital watches. The book explains quartz crystals and gear trains in an approachable way, supported by engaging illustrations. It encourages hands‑on curiosity, like making a sundial at home. The verdict: a fun, informative read for kids and adults alike.
The timeless link between watches and motorcycles
This feature celebrates the shared DNA of timepieces and motorcycles: craftsmanship, precision, and a passionate enthusiast culture. It explores why both objects symbolize freedom, adventure, and individuality. Visual and functional parallels help explain their overlapping fan bases. The piece invites readers to appreciate how these worlds reflect lifestyle and identity.
Timex’s Latest Affordable Watch Proves It’s Officially a Hype Brand Now
Timex’s reinvention continues with a collaboration that advances the brand’s fashion‑forward credentials. The Teeny Tiny Timex, created with Dimepiece, channels jewelry‑like wearability with a 20 mm polished recycled steel case and adjustable bracelet. Priced at $149 in steel and $159 in gold‑tone, it targets collectors seeking trend‑driven, functional accessories. It cements Timex’s shift from budget basic to cultural crowd‑pleaser.
The Latest Time
Breguet
Introducing: Breguet Classique 7225 250th Anniversary Timepiece. Harnessing Magnetism to Master Precision.
Breguet marks its 250th anniversary with the Classique 7225, an innovation that uses a magnetic‑pivot balance and a 10 Hz escapement for high-precision chronometry. Inspired by the historic No. 1176, it blends classic aesthetics with modern functionality, including dual small seconds and a longer 60-hour power reserve. An 18K Breguet gold case and dial with intricate guilloché showcase meticulous craft, while the manual-wind Caliber 74SC’s 361 components emphasize technical ambition. The anniversary presentation and lifetime repairability reinforce the brand’s heritage-meets-innovation ethos.
Exaequo
Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches
The Polyhedron Melting Watch interprets Dalí’s surrealism through a 62‑facet polygonal 925 silver case that reshapes the classic “melting” motif. Debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva, it comes in three dial variants, each limited to 101 pieces. A handmade Italian strap and sculptural geometry turn the concept into wearable art, balancing fluidity and angularity. Retail pricing is 2,250 CHF, underscoring its accessible indie-art positioning.
Fortis
Fortis Introduces First-ever DLC-coated Stratoliner watch
The Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black debuts Fortis’s matte graphite DLC at a hardness of 4,500 Vickers on a recycled-steel 41 mm case. Powered by the in-house Werk 17 column‑wheel chronograph, it delivers COSC‑level accuracy, 60 hours of reserve, and 200 m water resistance. A smoked sapphire back, Orbit Bezel, and stardust‑textured dial with Super‑LumiNova X1 reinforce its space‑tested tool‑watch identity. The hybrid FKM rubber and high‑resistance textile strap rounds out the $4,950 package.
Parmigiani Fleurier
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-rotor :
This two‑tone Tonda PF Micro‑rotor pairs stainless steel and rose gold with a deep Stone Blue hand‑guilloché dial. Inside, the ultra‑slim PF703 with a 22‑carat rose‑gold micro‑rotor keeps thickness to 7.8 mm while offering a 48‑hour reserve. The restrained detailing and seamless material harmony emphasize “private luxury,” focusing on tactile finishing and proportion. It’s a distilled expression of the collection’s refined elegance.
Introducing: A New Steel-and-Rose Gold Iteration of the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor - Read More >
Raymond Weil
First Look: The Elegant and Attainable Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Collection
The Toccata Heritage revives an elegant elliptical silhouette at 33 mm wide and just 6.95 mm thick. A hand‑wound RW4100 delivers 45 hours of power, while sunray dials, Dauphine hands, and minimal markings keep things refined. Stainless steel or rose‑gold PVD cases and multiple strap options tailor it to classic tastes. Priced from EUR 1,495 to 1,625, it targets renewed enthusiasm for compact, dressy designs.
Rolex
Hands-On: The Rolex Submariner Desk Clock Ref. 909010LN
Shaped like the iconic Submariner, this hemispherical desk clock features a fixed ceramic bezel and glossy black dial with oversized luminous markers. Its analog‑digital Caliber 8335 quartz movement includes a secular calendar accurate for up to 400 years. Priced at $10,270, it occupies a curious space as both functional timekeeper and luxury decor, mirroring watch‑like detailing without water resistance. The release signals Rolex’s interest in translating its watch codes into statement objects for the desk.
Serica
Serica Introduces the New Parade “Linen”
Debuting at Windup Watch Fair, the Ref. 1174 “Linen” expands the Parade line’s stadium‑shaped case and 100 m durability. Slate and Tobacco textured linen dials evoke vintage elegance with minimal branding and polished markers, letting case architecture and surface play lead. Powered by a reliable Soprod movement, the model is priced at $1,767 with mid‑November deliveries. It’s a 1970s‑tinged, refined daily wearer with distinctive dial character.
The Armoury
Unimatic and The Armoury Celebrate a Pair of Anniversaries with a New Limited Edition Modello Cinque
Marking 15 years of The Armoury and 10 of Unimatic, the U5S‑TA2 “10.5” brings a playful red‑and‑white palette to a compact 36 mm tool watch. A Sellita SW200‑1 and 41‑hour reserve add daily practicality, with 120 pieces produced. Each ships with a red TPU strap and black suede strap in a co‑branded case. Priced at $1,520, it’s available now with January delivery.
Timex
The Timex Expedition Capstone Refines What an Affordable Field Watch Can Be
The 39 mm brushed gunmetal case, 50 m water resistance, and bright lume deliver field‑watch function in a more refined package. Large numerals maximize legibility, while a quick‑release silicone strap boosts day‑to‑day usability. A dependable quartz movement keeps it grab‑and‑go reliable. It hints at elevated design direction for future Expedition variants.
Ulysse Nardin
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition
Limited to 30 pieces, this 44 mm diver pairs recycled titanium and low‑density carbon to weigh just 52 grams. It is rated to 200 m and features a skeletonized movement, vibrant blue accents, Super‑LumiNova, and a 90‑hour power reserve. Delivered on a blue elastic strap with an additional white rubber strap, it targets cutting‑edge wearability and performance. Pricing is by request, with estimates around CHF 36,000.
Union Glashütte
Introducing: The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition 2025
Inspired by the Lancia Delta Integrale, this 44 mm chronograph blends a matte blue‑grey dial, yellow numerals, and a black tachymeter for motorsport flair. The automatic UNG‑27.S1 offers a 65‑hour reserve with 100 m water resistance. Delivered on a blue‑grey rubber strap with an extra black calfskin strap, it is limited to 388 pieces. Pricing is EUR 3,300.
Unimatic
This Tool Watch Brand Changes Gears with a Classy, Racing-Inspired Sports Watch
The Modello Cinque U5S‑TA2 ‘10.15’ pairs a matte white dial and bold red minute track with a brushed 36 mm steel case. A Sellita SW200‑1b drives the watch, which is water resistant to 300 m for genuine tool performance. Two straps—red TPU and black suede—offer instant personality shifts. Limited to 120 pieces, it’s priced at $1,500 via The Armoury and $1,520 from Unimatic.
Vacheron Constantin
Meet the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time
Limited to 20 pieces, this white‑gold 43 mm artwork uses retrograde hands guided by a sculpted figure and an exquisitely rendered moon phase. The Caliber 3670 delivers a 144‑hour reserve, while a sapphire‑crystal dial bears a star map from 1755. Sidereal time and constellation motion are displayed on the back, extending the celestial theme. It is a poetic fusion of technical mastery and artistic craft.
Wearing Time - Reviews
TAG Heuer
Hands-On: Limited-Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring Watch Puts Material Expertise Front And Center
A forged‑carbon 44 mm case and carbon hairspring anchor this limited run of 50 pieces. The in‑house TH20‑61 offers 65 hours of reserve and improved shock and magnetic resistance, while a tourbillon at 6 o’clock dramatizes the openworked carbon dial. The monochrome aesthetic keeps focus on materials and engineering. At $42,100, it positions Carrera at the cutting edge of modern composites.
Zenith
Zenith Defy Zero G Blue Sapphire Watch Hands-On: An Expression Of Spectacle And Chronometry
Zenith’s Defy Zero G Blue Sapphire blends high-accuracy chronometry with dramatic design, using a gimbal-suspended regulation system to keep the balance wheel vertical for optimal timekeeping. The manually wound El Primero 8812 runs at 5 Hz with a 50-hour reserve, set beneath a starry lapis lazuli motif that amplifies the celestial theme. A 46 mm sapphire case in clear or blue offers visual spectacle with everyday practicality at 30 meters of water resistance, paired to blue rubber and alligator straps. Limited to just 10 pieces and priced at $207,500, it showcases modern luxury backed by historical craft.
Watching Time
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Talking Time
No new episodes today
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Navy” 42MM White Dial Leather Strap (26170ST)- was bid to $14,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2015 A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (216.032)
Auction Report: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37mm in Pink Gold (Ref. 216.032)
The 2015 A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37mm (216.032) is the distilled essence of modern Glashütte dress watchmaking: a compact 37mm case in 18k pink gold, silvery argenté dial with applied gold batons, and small seconds perfectly tucked at six. It’s powered by Lange’s hand-wound caliber L941.1 with 45 hours of reserve, a 3/4 German-silver plate and hand-engraved balance cock—hallmarks that made post-reunification Lange a benchmark for finishing. Factory specs list 7.8mm in thickness and 30m water resistance, and this exact reference is no longer in the current catalog.
Context matters with this model. The Saxonia lineage dates to 1994, grew to 37mm in 2007, and received its restrained dial redesign in 2011; the pink-gold/argenté 216.032 ran roughly 2011–2015 before Lange downsized the hand-wound Saxonia to 35mm in the subsequent refresh. That makes a crisp 37mm example like this one the sweet spot for collectors who prefer classic proportions without going small.
Your lot presents well on paper: very good condition, boxes and papers dated 2015, plus an OEM extra strap and additional items. That’s the full-fat package for a time-only Lange, and it helps liquidity. On value, live marketplace asks for the same reference currently cluster in the mid-teens to high-teens USD, with several complete-set listings around $15,000–$18,000 and some edging to ~ $17,800 depending on scope and condition. Recent public-auction data for 216.032 includes a May 2025 hammer in the ~$15,050 range, which tracks with today’s dealer asks. For the broader Saxonia family, aggregated indices show model dispersion, but a typical Saxonia sits around the mid-$20Ks depending on reference; this small-seconds 37 tends to trade below the line because it’s purist, not hyped.
History and appeal are straightforward. The design is Lange at its most minimalist—no outsized date, no complications to distract, just a balanced dial and that sculpted three-step case with brushed mid-band and polished bezel. The movement finishing is where the romance lives: gold chatons, screwed balance, and the engraved cock done by a single craftsperson, visible through sapphire. It’s the kind of watch that disappears under a cuff but announces itself the moment you flip it over.
Bid strategy for this example is conservative but confident. With a full set from 2015 and an extra OEM strap, a rational target window is $15,500–$18,500 all-in, shading up toward $19,000 if condition proves truly excellent (sharp hallmarks, clean bevels, no dial or hand oxidation, no caseback opener slips) and the set includes original purchase documents or recent service. Cross-check the movement number against the warranty card, look for a consistent patina on screws and chatons, and verify amplitude if a service claim is made. If bidding heats up beyond the high-teens, remember that comparable dealer listings exist—patience has real option value on a non-hype Lange.
The auction is scheduled to end at 8:34 pm ET on Wednesday, October 29, 2025. If you can inspect additional photos or a movement shot before committing, do it; otherwise this is a quietly great buy for someone who wants “real Lange” finishing without a date window or a six-figure invoice.
Current bid: $9,200