BuyingTime Daily - October 27, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
“Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe” summary for October 27, 2025:
Luxury watchmakers are redefining what “premium” means. With gold pushing past $4,300 an ounce, brands are shifting towards materials like ceramic, titanium and sapphire—touting durability, modern aesthetics and cost-efficiency over pure precious-metal heft. Ceramics are prized for their scratch-resistance and color stability, titanium for its lightweight hypoallergenic feel, and sapphire for exclusivity and engineering challenge.
In surprising company-news, former Audemars Piguet product leader Michael Friedman is launching a new independent brand called Pattern Recognition, with its debut model—named “B-Theory”—featuring a curved astronomical tourbillon, lunar display and a low-double-digit production run. Prices are set at CHF 120,000 on strap / CHF 150,000 on titanium bracelet, aiming for a 2026 release.
On the auction front, the unique F.P. Journe “FFC Prototype”—formerly belonging to Francis Ford Coppola—will go up in New York this December with bids opening at US $1 million. The piece features an inventive human-hand time indicator, steel bridges, rotating minutes ring and a black-treated titanium hand—another example of rare craft crossing into art.
Collectors and owners should remain alert: theft and fraud in the luxury timepiece space are growing. Registering watches with specialist databases like The Watch Register, keeping full ownership documentation and collaborating with insurers/authorities all improve the odds of recovery and deter bad actors.
On the boutique front, Van Cleef & Arpels has opened its first stand-alone store in Hamburg at Neuer Wall 40, spanning two floors and 500 m²—the brand’s largest German location to date. Heritage pieces from 1906–1953 will be on display in the “Salon 1906” section until January 2026.
In cultural crossover news, actor-director Aziz Ansari used a 1978 Rolex Daytona (“Pretty Baby”) as a symbolic anchor in his new film Good Fortune, pairing a vintage chronograph’s mythos with identity and obsession themes. It’s a fun reminder that watches don’t just tell time—they tell stories.
For those hunting new releases, the landscape is broad: from boutique tool-watches to limited-edition high horology. Entries from brands like Hublot, Urwerk and others are leaning into sculptural cases, high-tech materials, and mechanical narrative. Meanwhile an accessible ceramic-cased field watch from a younger brand highlights that innovation isn’t just for the ultra-luxury end.
Today’s takeaway: the watch universe continues to shift. Material choice, independent launches, auction-driven rarity and collector safeguards are all playing larger roles. For industry watchers and buyers alike, staying attentive to these dynamics is the key to both enjoyment and value.
News Time
Ceramic, sapphire and titanium valued more than gold watches
As gold prices climb past $4,300 per ounce, luxury watch brands are shifting to materials like ceramic, titanium, and sapphire to protect margins and meet modern tastes. These alternatives bring durability and distinctive aesthetics while lowering material costs. Ceramic offers high-end appeal at attainable price points, titanium delivers comfort and hypoallergenic benefits, and sapphire showcases exclusivity through complex engineering. The result is a redefinition of luxury that emphasizes innovation and sustainability over precious metal mass.
Former AP product leader unveils his own independent watch company
After a two-year hiatus, former Audemars Piguet leaders François-Henry Bennahmias and Michael Friedman are launching new ventures, with Friedman introducing Pattern Recognition and its debut model, the B-Theory. The curved astronomical tourbillon blends historical and modern techniques, featuring a central flying tourbillon and a personalized lunar display. The watch targets a 2026 release with pricing at CHF 150,000 on a titanium bracelet or CHF 120,000 on a strap. Production will be limited to the low double digits.
Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Prototype appears at auction with bids starting at $1 million
Francis Ford Coppola’s singular F.P. Journe FFC Prototype, which uses a stylized human hand to indicate time, will be auctioned in New York on December 6–7, 2025, with bids opening at $1 million. Conceived through collaboration with François‑Paul Journe, the piece marries artistic vision with advanced mechanics. Its design includes steel bridges, a rotating white minutes ring, and a black‑treated titanium hand. Additional pieces from Coppola’s collection, including F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe, will also be offered.
Francis Ford Coppola’s One-of-One F.P. Journe Watch Could Fetch $1 Million - Read More >
Theft And Fraud Continue To Be A Threat In The Luxury Space—Here’s One Way To Protect Your Collection
The rising value and visibility of luxury watches and jewelry have led to increased theft and fraud targeting collectors. Registering watches with specialized databases like The Watch Register can help verify serial numbers, prevent fraudulent transactions, and aid in recovery of stolen timepieces. Collaboration with law enforcement and insurers strengthens recovery efforts. Maintaining detailed records, including serial numbers and ownership documents, significantly improves the chances of getting stolen items back.
Van Cleef & Arpels opens first Boutique in Hamburg
Van Cleef & Arpels has inaugurated its first Hamburg boutique, spanning 500 square meters across two floors and becoming the brand’s largest location in Germany. The façade pays homage to the city’s architecture while the interior offers a bright, welcoming atmosphere with a bar lounge and private salons. The Salon 1906 will display heritage pieces from 1906 to 1953, including the 1946 Secret Watch Ludo, until January 2026. The boutique at Neuer Wall 40 is open Monday through Saturday.
Feature Time
Aziz Ansari Puts A 1978 Rolex Daytona Center Stage In ‘Good Fortune’
Aziz Ansari’s directorial debut, Good Fortune, uses a 1978 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, nicknamed “Pretty Baby,” as a symbolic anchor for its characters’ emotional arcs. What begins as a birthday gift becomes an obsession, mirroring shifting identities and desires. To ground the story in horological realism, Ansari partnered with Cameron Barr of Craft + Tailored to get the details right. Set in Los Angeles, the film explores how objects like watches can reflect transformation and belonging.
Buying Guide: Sculpting Time With 6 Highly Expressive Case Designs
This guide spotlights six watches that push case design into sculptural territory, where form elevates function. Highlights include Hublot’s MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash and David Candaux’s DC12 MaveriK, both marrying technical innovation with bold aesthetics. Urwerk’s UR-150 Blue Scorpion and Holthinrichs’ Signature LAB Series 1.24 reimagine proportion and surface with satellite displays and 3D‑printed titanium. Artya’s Purity Curvy HMS Mirror and Credor’s Locomotive round out a set that prizes creativity, mechanics, and limited production.
Eclectic Dreams: Six Recent Releases from Inventive Independent Watchmakers
Six independents showcase fresh thinking and craftsmanship across limited releases. Kollokium’s Projekt 02 FFF&F Edition stands out for its artistic dial, while Louis Erard’s 2340 line channels a refined sport‑chic look. Bremont’s Terra Nova Jumping Hour blends toughness and Art Deco, De Bethune’s DB28xs Yellow Tones mesmerizes with heat‑tempered titanium, and Hautlence’s Sphere Series 3 leans avant‑garde. Urwerk’s UR‑10 Spacemeter adds a cosmic twist by tracking Earth’s motion through space.
In-Depth: The Technical Evolution of Patek Philippe
From 1839 to today, Patek Philippe’s progress reveals a disciplined pursuit of precision, longevity, and clarity. Innovations span the shift from pocket to wristwatches, the keyless winding system, and judicious use of silicon components. Iconic milestones like the Calatrava and a deep bench of in‑house movements laid the groundwork for future advancements. Every decision reflects structural integrity and restrained design, ensuring function and finishing endure together.
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Monaco Legend Group’s Fall 2025 Auction
Monaco’s fall auction scene mixed vintage rarities, modern icons, and record prices, including a Rolex ref. 6062 that achieved €4.25 million. The atmosphere balanced high‑stakes bidding with lively collector conversations and quiet connoisseurship. Standouts ranged from Cartier’s Tank Allongée to a spread of Patek Philippe and rare Daytonas, each with layered histories. The visual report captures the glamour and depth that make Monaco auctions a magnet for enthusiasts.
The ABCs of Time - The Difference Between Mechanical and Quartz Watches
Mechanical and quartz watches diverge in both origin and operation, with mechanics rooted in a mainspring and escapement, and quartz driven by crystal vibrations. Quartz’s accuracy and low maintenance reshaped the market during the 1970s crisis, while mechanical pieces sustained a culture of artistry and hand‑finishing. Enthusiasts prize mechanical watches for their tangible craft and emotional resonance. Both approaches now coexist, serving distinct preferences for precision, value, and heritage.
The Agonizing Joy Of Choosing A Holiday Watch
Packing for a long European trip turns a watch choice into a balancing act of style, stealth, and practicality. Flashier options like the Rolex Sea‑Dweller and Tudor BB58 draw too much attention, while an SKX173 feels too modest for extended wear. The Casio F‑91W is worry‑free but lacks mechanical appeal. The Seiko SRPL93 “Gene Kranz” ultimately wins for its understated toughness, affordability, and carefree charm.
The Unlikely Watch Collector: Bad Bunny
Bad Bunny’s collection mirrors his boundary‑pushing persona, mixing rare vintage, gem‑set showpieces, and subversive choices. A wooden‑dial Rolex Day‑Date 18038 sits alongside a diamond‑studded Patek Philippe Ref. 3980, each telling a chapter of identity and ascent. Wearing a vintage Audemars Piguet ladies’ watch challenges gendered watch norms and broadens style language. The result is a personal narrative rendered in steel, gold, and memories from Vega Baja to global stardom.
These three affordable vintage Seikos deserve your attention | OPINION
Three Seikos show how thoughtful design and history remain accessible to collectors. The Skyliner offers elegant lines and strong manual winding, with notable references from the mid‑1960s. The Lord Marvel, Japan’s first luxury watch, shines in later high‑beat iterations. Stone‑dial Credor models add rarity and finesse, often appearing at reasonable prices for the patient hunter.
The Latest Time
Airain
Introducing: The Airain Type 20 “70 Ans” Tribute to the French Flyback Chronograph
Airain honors the historic French flyback chronograph with a 39mm stainless steel reissue in Horizon Blue. A hand‑wound column‑wheel flyback movement delivers period‑faithful function with modern reliability. Design cues like the bi‑compax dial and bidirectional bezel preserve the robust tool‑watch character. Pre‑orders open October 21 at EUR 3,850, with first deliveries expected in early April 2026.
Alpina
Introducing: The new Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Edition Europe
To celebrate 140 years, Alpina revives Art Deco charm in a slim rectangular case measuring 32.5 x 39mm. A matte black dial with beige details and small seconds nods to vintage elegance, while the AL‑530 automatic movement offers a 38‑hour reserve. Limited to 100 pieces exclusively for Europe, it pairs refinement with daily wearability. A black ostrich leather strap completes the period‑inspired look at EUR 1,850.
Beaucroft
Beaucroft Element Rebel Black
Beaucroft’s Element Rebel Black is a stealthy field watch built for toughness, using a Nitron MC tungsten carbide carbon coating. The 39.5mm case houses a Miyota 9039 automatic and is water resistant to 200 meters. A matte black dial and mint‑green seconds hand add crisp legibility, while a custom FKM rubber strap from Under The Cuff allows tool‑free adjustments. Priced at £695, it is available for pre‑order with deliveries slated for early December 2025.
Breguet
Breguet Reverses Polarity with the Classique 7225
Marking the brand’s 250th anniversary, the Classique 7225 runs at a blistering 10 Hz for accuracy within one second per day. Its cal. 74SC uses a magnetic pivot to reduce friction and improve shock resistance. The 41mm 18k gold case, slim profile, and “observation seconds” dial design echo early 19th‑century tourbillon pocket watches. Priced at CHF 75,000, it blends heritage with forward‑looking tech.
Earthen Co.
Hands-On: The Earthen Co. Summit Watch Does Affordable Ceramic Case Design Right
The Summit brings high‑tech ceramic to the entry level with a 38mm white case, 10mm thickness, and 100m water resistance. Its clear pilot‑inspired dial emphasizes legibility with bold numerals and a practical handset. A Miyota 9039 automatic keeps things robust and reliable. Paired with a sailcloth rubber strap, it delivers versatility at $899.
Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Marks Half a Century of Sophisticated Sporty Looks
Limited to 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty combines steel and 3N yellow gold in a 39mm case with the iconic octagonal bezel. A sunray‑gray Clous de Paris dial, gold‑plated hands, and date aperture underscore its refined sportiness. The new self‑winding caliber GP4800 brings a 55‑hour power reserve and enhanced efficiency, visible through the sapphire back. Priced at $28,320, it balances heritage, craft, and versatility.
Hanhart
Introducing: The new Hanhart Silva with Rose & Pistachio Dials
Hanhart refreshes its minimalist Pioneer line with 38.5mm stainless steel cases and playful pastel dials in Rosé and Pistachio. High‑contrast hands and markers prioritize readability, while the Soprod P024 automatic offers at least 38 hours of power. Water resistance is 50 meters, and buyers can choose between calfskin or Milanese straps. At EUR 990, it blends heritage practicality with contemporary color.
This Legendary Tool Watch Brand Changes Gears With a Fun Daily Wearer - Read More >
Longines
High-Frequency Heritage Revived in the Longines Ultra-Chron Classic
Longines reinterprets its 1967 Ultra‑Chron with the 5 Hz L836.6 caliber, offering a 52‑hour reserve and chronometer certification. The curved silver dial and vintage logo nod to mid‑century originals, in 37mm or 40mm stainless‑steel cases. Modern upgrades include a silicon balance spring for magnetic resistance. Pricing is $3,900 on leather and $4,000 on bracelet.
Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic - Read More >
Ulysse Nardin
The Year’s Most Impressive Dive Watch Just Got Better Looking
The ultralight Diver Air, at just 46 grams, gets a vivid makeover in collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi for its 75th anniversary. Recycled titanium and carbon fiber keep weight low while preserving performance. Electric blue accents, new strap choices, and a 30‑piece cap heighten collectability. It’s a striking mix of sustainability, engineering, and limited‑edition flair.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Artya
ArtyA Purity Wavy Central Tourbillon
ArtyA’s Purity Wavy Central Tourbillon centers a dramatic tourbillon under a sapphire case that shifts color with the light. The automatic movement, developed by Télôs, delivers a robust 72-hour power reserve while keeping the focus on the kinetic sculpture at the dial’s heart. Multiple limited versions, from clear to iridescent sapphire, emphasize the line’s avant‑garde character. It blends cutting‑edge materials with high horology to create an unmistakable statement piece.
Christopher Ward
This Christopher Ward GMT Has Me Questioning My Rolex Wishlist
Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Extreme GMT makes a compelling case against defaulting to the usual luxury suspects. The design and feature set promise strong everyday versatility with enthusiast‑grade specs and finishing. It positions itself as a savvy choice for those seeking quality and style without luxury‑brand pricing. The review explores why this GMT could reset expectations for value in the segment.
Montblanc
Montblanc 1858 Split-Second Chronograph Limited Edition
This 44 mm limited edition pays homage to 1930s military monopusher chronographs, pairing retro charm with modern execution. The hand‑finished MB M16.31 calibre enables rattrapante timing via a single pusher for start, stop, and reset. Just 100 pieces will be made, underscoring its collectability and craftsmanship. Priced at €60,000, it’s aimed squarely at enthusiasts who prize heritage and horological complexity.
Movado
Movado Heritage 1917 Automatic 35mm Watch Review: A Modern Way Of Enjoying A Classic
Movado brings a 1917 design into the present with a sleek 35 mm square case and Swiss automatic movement. A gold‑plated bezel and charcoal sunburst dial add minimalist elegance and strong legibility. Comfort is emphasized with a single‑link bracelet and a compact, unisex footprint. At $1,795 on steel, it bridges heritage cues with contemporary wearability.
Seiko
Impressions on the new Seiko Rotocall
The 2025 Rotocall revives a cult 1982 digital watch favored by NASA astronauts, complete with its rotating bezel control. It retains the octagonal case and segmented LCD, delivering eight core functions in a tactile, nostalgic package. Priced at JPY 71,500, it forgoes solar power and illumination, positioning itself more as a historically faithful reissue than a spec‑monster. Collectors will appreciate the design integrity and conversation‑piece charm despite its modest modern feature set.
Urwerk
Hands-On: The URWERK UR-10 Spacemeter Watch Recreates Unique 19th-Century Astronomical Display
URWERK blends classic hands with three subdials that visualize Earth’s rotation and orbital velocity, inspired by 19th‑century horology. A slim titanium‑and‑steel case and refined winding system prioritize comfort and durability. The automatic mechanism tempers rotor speed to reduce wear, reflecting the brand’s engineering focus. Limited to 50 pieces at $94,000, it’s a high‑concept watch for collectors who love technical storytelling.
Watching Time
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Talking Time
SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode
In Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, insights from Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris are shared, including discussions with the brand’s materials engineer. The episode also covers the new Cartier Santos in titanium and the launch of the Petermann Bédat Reference 1825, exploring market opportunities for highly finished time-only watches.
Erik and Max discuss the second most valuable watch auctioned after Paul Newman’s, exploring lesser-known Rolexes with intriguing stories. They highlight various models and their unique characteristics, including nicknames and provenance, while providing links to additional resources for each watch mentioned.
The latest podcast episode discusses insights from a watch enthusiast survey, highlighting that collectors spend less than expected and many play guitar. The hosts debate integrated bracelets and critique the “three-watch collection” rule. They also touch on Omega’s new Speedmaster, rebranding missteps, and the importance of clear communication in the watch industry. The conversation is a mix of humor and honesty, emphasizing that watch collecting should be enjoyable and not hindered by trends.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy 40.2MM Aventurine Dial Leather Strap (PFH279-1062500-HA2121)- was bid to $22,333 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2013 Rolex Submariner Date “Hulk” 40MM Green Dial Oyster Bracelet (116610LV)
Auction Report: Rolex Submariner Date “Hulk” 116610LV (2013) — The Green Giant Returns
A full-set 2013 Rolex Submariner Date “Hulk” (116610LV) is never subtle, and that’s the point. The watch that turned the Sub into a green-on-green cult object arrived in 2010, pairing a green sunburst dial with a matching green Cerachrom bezel and the then-new “Super Case.” It ran a decade before Rolex retired it in 2020 in favor of the 41mm ref. 126610LV with a black dial and green bezel—the “Starbucks,” if you insist—locking in the Hulk’s status as the only green-dial Submariner of the ceramic era.
Under the hood is Rolex’s workhorse Caliber 3135: chronometer-certified, 48-hour power reserve, 300 m water resistance. It’s the last Submariner generation before the 3235 update, and for many collectors that’s a feature, not a bug—proven, plentiful parts and any competent Rolex specialist can keep it happy. The case and bracelet are 904L “Oystersteel,” with the Cerachrom insert essentially shrugging off scratches and UV.
Market check heading into your October 27, 2025, 10:26 pm ET close: WatchCharts pegs the current market price for the 116610LV around the mid–$17Ks as of this past weekend, with a gentle drift down over the past quarter. Chrono24 dealer listings for complete sets span roughly $18K on the low end to the mid–$20Ks for late, clean examples—CPO and sealed-sticker unicorns float higher, but transaction reality for honest, lightly worn HULKs tends to clear under the splashy asks. Your 2013 full set in very good condition, resized with the extra link present, sits right in the sweet spot of what actually trades.
History and positioning matter here. The Hulk follows the 50th-anniversary “Kermit” 16610LV of 2003 (black dial, green aluminum insert) and precedes the 126610LV “Starbucks”/“Cermit,” giving you a neat three-act arc of green Subs. That lineage is precisely why the 116610LV remains sticky with collectors—it’s the only chapter with green dial and green bezel, and it marks the Sub’s leap into ceramic color with all the modern conveniences.
Valuation call for tonight: assuming honest case lines, original dial/hands/bezel, and no service drama, the fair range for a 2013 full-set Hulk is roughly $17,500–$21,000 all-in; stretch to the low-$20Ks if condition is excellent and the set is truly complete. That corridor is consistent with WatchCharts’ model price and the lower band of active dealer asks on Chrono24; if bidding sprints north of $22K without a compelling condition story, you’re paying tomorrow’s nostalgia today.
Due diligence before you click “bid more”: confirm the bracelet (Glidelock) has minimal stretch and that the case hasn’t been over-polished; check the color uniformity of the sunburst dial and the bezel’s pearl; verify that the 2013 warranty card matches the serial; and ask for movement timing or recent service receipts—Cal. 3135 is tough, but fresh gaskets and regulation are real money. If all that checks, this Hulk is exactly what it says on the tin: a modern, wearable blue-chip Rolex with a fanbase and a floor. If it doesn’t, remember there are always more green giants stomping across the secondary market tomorrow.
Tonight’s bottom line: the Hulk’s hype peak has cooled from the 2021 froth, but liquidity and demand remain durable. Bid to value, not to nickname—there’s plenty of green in the market already.
Current bid: $6,000