BuyingTime Daily - October 24, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 24, 2025
The week closes with Patek Philippe flexing harder than ever, reporting a 12.4% sales jump in the UK to £360 million for FY 2024–25—outpacing both Rolex and Audemars Piguet. While most luxury sectors are still catching their breath, Patek’s Bond Street boutique helped power a 7.5% turnover boost, with management calling results “excellent.” It’s proof that the very top of the pyramid still sells—especially when your average sale has a comma or two in it.
Meanwhile, collectors pondering a digital shortcut to ownership might want to pause before hitting “Buy Now.” A feature piece this week asks if it’s really safe to buy a Rolex online in 2025. Spoiler: not unless you love high-grade counterfeits, mystery serials, and existential dread. The moral? Stick to authorized sellers, demand full documentation, and if the price seems too good to be true—it is.
For something more wholesome, Maison Alcée and Hodinkee have teamed up to let you literally build your own clock. The Persée Fantôme Limited Edition arrives as a $9,990 kit with 233 components, a rosewood box, and a WhatsApp support group for when you inevitably install the escapement backward. Across the French countryside, Samuel Soleilhac has been quietly perfecting his Harmonie—a bi-rotor-wound, hand-finished debut limited to 18 pieces. Proof that the spirit of independent watchmaking is very much alive, even if it’s hand-filing bridges at 2 a.m. somewhere near Lyon.
Watchfinder & Co. is back with its “bargain” Rolex picks—words that rarely coexist. Highlights include the Oyster Perpetual Air King 114200 at £4,060 and a pistachio-green 41 mm OP at £9,500, both solid buys after recent cooling. Less persuasive are certain vintage gold Day-Dates, which seem to be holding out for nostalgia that hasn’t fully returned. And in Dayton, Ohio, collector Mitch Katz is showing how vintage watches, guitars, and cars can coexist harmoniously—assuming you have a 1937 Martin 00-18 and a 1973 Porsche 911S to match your Heuer Skipperera.
Among the new releases, Baltic launches a charming Transat Café L’Or limited edition at €1,750, while Bell & Ross goes full stealth with the BR-X3 Night Vision—carbon, lume, and cockpit energy included. Breguet doubles up with two 250th-anniversary Classiques, one reviving the magnetic pivot, another tipping its hat to Abraham-Louis himself. Even Casio got weird, miniaturizing the G-Shock into a ring-sized Nano that’s either the future of wearable tech or the end of horology as we know it.
Over in reviews, Garmin’s fēnix 8 Pro proves that smartwatches have officially entered the overachiever phase—GPS, topo maps, dive buttons, and a screen so bright it could guide planes. Mido’s Multifort 8 Two Crowns brought Swiss polish to cliff diving, while the new RZE Resolute 36 made the case for smaller, tougher, better-looking daily wearers under $600.
Finally, tonight’s headline auction centers on the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy 40.2 mm—a celestial spectacle with a gemstone bezel and an MSRP of $187,000. The current bid sits at $5,000, which is either a typo or the steal of the decade. Either way, we’ll be watching the stars—and the hammer—when it strikes at 10:08 p.m.
News Time
Patek Philippe sales growth outpaces Rolex & AP
Patek Philippe reported a 12.4% surge in UK sales to £360 million for FY 2024–25, handily beating Rolex and Audemars Piguet, which rose 2.4% and 7% respectively. The performance comes despite broader consumer headwinds, pointing to resilient demand at the high end. An expanded Bond Street boutique helped lift turnover by 7.5%, while directors called the results “excellent,” crediting stronger sales of higher-value pieces. The company expects recent investments to further improve performance in the year ahead.
Feature Time
Is It Really Safe To Buy A Rolex Online In 2025?
Buying Rolex online in 2025 offers convenience but also heightened risk due to increasingly sophisticated counterfeits. Serious buyers should stick to trusted, authorized dealers, verify serials, and scrutinize telltale physical details like weight and movement. Factory warranties and expert inspections provide additional protection against fakes and hidden issues. Vigilance, complete documentation, and awareness of fair market pricing are essential to avoid scams.
Maison Alcée Persée Fantôme Limited Edition For Hodinkee
This limited edition turns clockmaking into a hands-on experience, pairing education with craftsmanship. Each of the 25 sets includes a ruthenium-coated base, custom luminous syringe handset left unpainted for personal finishing, and a 233-component kit with a 150-page instructional book. A rosewood presentation box and a dedicated WhatsApp support group round out the experience. Priced at $9,990, it invites collectors to build and personalize their own clock.
Portrait: The Intriguing Soleilhac Harmonie
Self-taught watchmaker Samuel Soleilhac debuts the Harmonie, merging classic design cues with a novel bi-rotor winding system. Each watch receives over 100 hours of hand finishing, underlining a deep commitment to artisanal craft. The piece balances functionality and elegance, and will be limited to 18 units with deliveries expected in 2026. Soleilhac aims to expand with a collaborative team while continuing to innovate within traditional watchmaking.
The best and worst Rolex watches in Watchfinder’s “bargain” bucket
Watchfinder & Co. highlights newly priced Rolex pieces spanning attractive value and less compelling options. Standouts include the Oyster Perpetual Air King Ref. 114200 at £4,060 and the 2025 Oyster Perpetual 41 in pistachio green at £9,500 after a market cool-down. The popular Oyster Perpetual Celebration Ref. 124300 appears at £15,750, while a gold Day-Date ref. 18238 from 1995 lists at £16,000. The round-up weighs design, condition, and intrinsic value, especially for vintage gold models.
The Countdown | Collecting Vintage Watches, Guitars, and Cars
A visit to Stoll & Co. in Dayton, Ohio reveals an independent service center employing 40 watchmakers. Collector Mitch Katz shares how discerning condition standards guide acquisitions across vintage watches, guitars, and cars. Highlights include a Heuer ‘Skipperera’, Patek Philippe ref. 3940 Perpetual Calendar ‘First Series’, and Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 ‘Paul Newman’. Katz bridges passions with a 1937 Martin 00-18 and 1973 Porsche 911S, offering practical advice on collecting with context and care.
The Latest Time
Baltic
Introducing: The Baltic Scalegraph Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition
Baltic celebrates its role as Official Timekeeper of the Transat Café L’Or race with a 200-piece limited chronograph. The compact steel case frames a regatta-inspired blue tachymeter bezel and a metallic champagne bi-compax dial. Inside is the hand-wound Sellita SW511 BH with a 63-hour power reserve. It ships on a beads-of-rice bracelet with an extra off-white FKM rubber strap, priced at EUR 1,750 before tax or EUR 2,100 including EU taxes.
Bell & Ross
Introducing: The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision, The Instrument for Night Missions
Designed for nighttime aerial missions, the BR-X3 Night Vision pairs a carbon fiber and Super-LumiNova resin case for striking nocturnal visibility. Its techno-futuristic camo look is matched by a multi-layered dial and the brand’s signature square form. The Kenissi-developed automatic movement offers a 70-hour power reserve and chronometer certification. Limited to 250 pieces, it’s priced at EUR 13,900, CHF 13,000, or USD 14,100.
Breguet
Introducing: The Breguet Classique 7235 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary
Paying homage to the 1794 No. 5 pocket watch, the Classique 7235 showcases a hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” dial with blue Roman numerals and blued steel hands. The 39mm 18k Breguet gold case houses the calibre 502.3.DRL with hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phase, and power reserve. A 45-hour power reserve balances classic complication with daily practicality. Limited to 250 pieces, the price is CHF 65,000.
Breguet
Introducing: The new Breguet Classique 7225, The Return of the Magnatic Pivot
The Classique 7225 revives Breguet’s magnetic-pivot system and a 10Hz escapement for exceptional precision at +/- 1 second per day. A refined 41mm 18k Breguet gold case frames a hand-guilloché dial with small seconds and a power reserve indicator. The high-frequency Calibre 74SC reduces friction and enhances reliability. Priced at CHF 75,000, it blends historic craft with advanced engineering.
Casio
Casio Just Released What Could Be Its Most Divisive G-Shock Watch Yet
The Nano DWN-5600 shrinks the iconic G-Shock to a finger-worn format at one-tenth the size of the original. It retains signature durability with shock resistance and 200m water resistance, plus a stopwatch and backlight. Offered in black, yellow, and red, the adjustable band fits different finger sizes. Launching in November around $116, it’s a bold twist on G-Shock wearability.
Christopher Ward
Introducing: The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT
Built for travel, the 41mm steel C63 Sealander Extreme GMT is water-resistant to 150m and available in green or black with strong lume. It runs the Sellita SW330-2 automatic with a 56-hour power reserve and date at six. A floating rubber movement mount adds anti-shock protection for rough use. Pricing is $1,995 on steel or $1,785 on a V-Strap.
The Year’s Best Adventure Watch Is Seriously Tough and Shockingly Affordable - Read More >
Favre Leuba
Introducing: A new Green Dial for the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival
A sunburst green dial refreshes this 1960s-inspired chronograph, set in a 40mm steel case rated to 100m. A glossy black ceramic bezel, double-domed sapphire, and tachymeter and telemeter scales deliver vintage-meets-modern charm. The FLC01 automatic chronograph movement offers a 60-hour power reserve. Priced at CHF 3,950, it comes on a quick-release black leather strap.
Haim
A Watch with This High-End Feature Shouldn’t Be Anywhere Near This Cheap
The Haim Annum brings a full calendar and moonphase to an approachable price point. Based on a Miyota automatic, the proprietary movement drives month, date, day, and moonphase via four subdials with dedicated pushers. The 38mm steel case features mixed finishing, sapphire crystals, and an exhibition back. Retail is $2,150 with pre-orders at $1,650.
Isotope Watches
Introducing the Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana
The Flyway Fata Morgana plays with light and reflection, pairing a mirror-polished titanium look with heat-blued “Lacrima” hands filled with Superluminova. A compact 36mm, three-piece 316L steel case is water-resistant to 100m. Buyers can choose between Landeron (40-hour) or La Joux Perret G101 (68-hour) Swiss automatics. Limited to 100 pieces, pricing is £1,200 for Landeron or £1,496 for the La Joux Perret.
Sinn
Introducing the Sinn U50 B
The U50 B is a purpose-built 500m diver rendered in matte blue with crisp white markers for legibility. Its compact 41mm case uses high-strength, seawater-resistant submarine steel for extreme durability. Anti-magnetic construction and a secure unidirectional bezel underscore tool-watch credentials. Prices start at €2,350 on textile and €2,700 on the steel bracelet.
Sinn
This New Version of a Classic Chronograph Is a Total Smoke Show
Sinn’s collaboration 103 St Ty Hd H pops with a light blue dial accented in orange and white, plus a classic tricompax layout. A hand-wound Sellita SW510 M delivers 62 hours of power and is showcased beneath a sapphire exhibition back. The 41mm steel case is water-resistant to 200m for everyday robustness. Limited to 250 pieces, pricing is $4,970.
Urwerk
Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter — A Watch That Measures Time And Space
Limited to 25 pieces, the UR-10 Spacemeter blends timekeeping with astronomical measurements across three sub-dials. It tracks Earth’s daily rotation, its journey around the Sun, and orbital motion for a conceptual, instrument-like display. The calibre UR-10.01 sits inside a lightweight titanium case with steel accents. Priced at CHF 70,000, it captures Urwerk’s avant-garde approach to horology.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Garmin
Garmin fēnix 8 Pro review
The fēnix 8 Pro is a rugged, feature-packed smartwatch built for outdoor enthusiasts and athletes. Its 51mm case houses one of the best AMOLED screens available, delivering vibrant color and excellent clarity in all conditions. Advanced tools like multiband GPS, topo maps, and dive-rated buttons make it versatile for a wide range of activities, while a blend of buttons and touchscreen keeps it user-friendly. Though its size and depth of features may overwhelm some, it offers durability, precision, and polish at £1,120.
Mido
Watch Review: Wearing The Mido Multifort 8 Two Crowns At The Red Bull Cliff Diving Championship
The Multifort 8 Two Crowns pairs a sleek integrated-bracelet design with an octagonal crown that echoes the polished facets of the case. Measuring 38.4mm with 100m water resistance, it runs the Calibre 72 automatic with a 72-hour power reserve for real-world practicality. The gray dial variant stands out for its hint of green and strong legibility, though the compact size may feel small to some. Priced at $1,440 on rubber or $1,520 on bracelet, it delivers Swiss craft and solid value.
RZE
A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36
Marking the brand’s fifth anniversary, the Resolute 36 introduces a thinner, lighter 36mm case while preserving RZE’s modern, angular tool-watch identity. A refined dial with a sunray center and textured ring elevates the look, complemented by applied markers and multiple color options. Powered by the Miyota 9039, it wears comfortably across a range of wrists and emphasizes everyday versatility. At $599, it targets those seeking a smaller, elegant daily watch without sacrificing durability.
Wearing Time - Events
Elka Watch Co’s neo-vintage elegance to hit WatchPro Salon stage
Elka Watch Co will spotlight its neo-vintage design language and Swiss craftsmanship at WatchPro Salon 2025 in London, presenting the X Series, Classic D Series, N Series, and Arinis dive watches. Relaunched in 2022, the brand channels 1960s charm and 1930s classicism through contemporary execution. Highlights include the Arinis AF03w-1002, which nods to ancient civilizations while blending historical cues with modern functionality. The salon takes place at 60 Great Queen Street with over 30 watchmakers on October 31 to November 1.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2014 Richard Mille RM 028 Diver Les Voiles de St. Barth L.E. 47MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (RM028)- was bid to $9,600 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy 40.2MM Aventurine Dial Leather Strap (PFH279-1062500-HA2121)
Auction Report: A Celestial Rarity: The 2024 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy 40.2 mm (PFH279‑1062500‑HA2121) Under the Gavel Tonight
Tonight, at exactly 10:08 pm on October 24, 2025, this remarkable timepiece—the 2024 edition of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy, reference PFH279-1062500-HA2121—is going to auction. The seller represents it in like‐new condition, inclusive of outer and inner boxes, an additional strap, “additional items,” and the original papers dated July 17, 2024. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price for this model is quoted at USD 187,000.
From a horological standpoint this watch is nothing short of spectacular. It features a 40.2 mm rose gold case, delivered with a bezel set in multi-colored baguette gemstones—rubies, sapphires, tsavorites and amethysts—forming what the brand describes as a “moonbow” halo around an aventurine dial. The movement is the ultra-thin automatic calibre PF517 with a flying tourbillon positioned between 7 and 8 o’clock—a subtle homage to Michel Parmigiani’s own birth time of 7:08 am. The aventurine dial evokes a starry night sky, while the rainbow gemstone bezel references the lunar-rainbow phenomenon (“moonbow”), giving the watch a poetic narrative.
In terms of value and market context: though the MSRP is USD 187,000, actual market listings suggest that realistic resale prices are significantly lower. One listing states an asking price of USD 80,000 for the same reference. Another listing shows a retail guide price around USD 194,623 for a previous variant (PFH279‐1062500‐HA3221). Yet real auction data appears thin; one source reports a sale of the reference at USD 49,500 in July 2025. The disparity between MSRP and realized market (or listing) value appears steep—this suggests either a very niche collector interest, or a market hesitation around highly jeweled, limited production watches even from high-horology houses like Parmigiani Fleurier.
Given the condition—“like new,” full box and papers, additional strap—the provenance here is strong, which is a meaningful advantage. The fact that the papers are dated July 2024 means it is essentially a recent purchase, still within original warranty‐lifetime territory (assuming standard brand warranty applies). That adds to appeal. However some caveats: the very distinctive gemstone bezel and aventurine dial make this more of a statement piece than a daily wear timepiece; its market niche is narrower. Also, servicing costs for a flying tourbillon with gem‐set bezel and micro-rotor architecture may be substantial, which may dampen future resale desirability.
In my assessment: if I were advising a bidder, I would suggest that a winning price closer to USD 90,000-120,000 would represent a relatively strong outcome given current market listings and the MSRP. Beyond that level the bidder may be paying a premium for “newness” or provenance rather than liquid resale value. If the lot goes through below USD 80,000 it could arguably represent value for a collector willing to wear and appreciate the piece rather than treat it purely as an investment. Above USD 150,000 would be risky unless the buyer is absolutely committed and has no intention of reselling. The full box/papers status, additional strap, and recent date give this example strong credentials—but they cannot entirely offset the market’s real-world pricing evidence.
In sum: the 2024 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Moonbow Tourbillon Galaxy is an exceptional work of haute horlogerie and high jewellery combined. For the right collector it will stand out in any collection. From an auction perspective tonight, the key will be whether we see passionate bidding that values the story, rarity and condition above secondary-market comparables—or whether the market remains cautious at the price levels implied by retail. It will be fascinating to see where the hammer falls.
Current bid: $5,000