BuyingTime Daily - October 23, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Here’s your edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for October 23, 2025 — light-hearted and watch-nerd approved.
We open with a breath of fresh horological air as Aubert & Ramel enters the scene with its very first wristwatch: the Ouréa. Crafted by two young Franco-Swiss talents, this 14-piece limited edition marries titanium and brass in a striking three-dimensional architecture, houses a 72-hour hand-wound movement made almost entirely in-house, and presents a glacial-pattern silver dial under a matte case. With a CHF 72,000 price tag and production spread over two years (starting with six platinum subscription pieces), it’s a declaration of independent craft over watch-making as mass business.
Over in the auction world, major waves are rippling as Sotheby’s readies its Big Fall watch sale. Among the highlights: a historically important Rolex Oyster once owned by Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English Channel, estimated at over US $1.3 million. Alongside that sits the ultra-rare full set of Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 pocket watches, expected to exceed US $10 million thanks to rarity, impeccable provenance, and sheer craftsmanship.
In charity watch news, IWC is offering a unique lot: the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL worn by Toto Wolff during the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix, up for auction at Bonhams in support of the Laureus Sport for Good foundation. This piece, part of a 100-unit edition featuring IWC’s advanced SPRIN-g PROTECT system, comes with a signed team polo and something very few watches boast: race-worn provenance and impact beyond the wrist. Estimated between CHF 80,000 and 200,000.
On the fashion front, the recent Paris Fashion Week 2025 SS26 shows weren’t just about couture — they doubled as a playground for serious watch-spotting. Classic vintage timepieces (hello, Rolex ref. 6590) rubbed shoulders with modern favourites from Serica and Cartier, and the mood sketched out a clear shift: smaller, rectangular cases styled front and centre, often layered with jewellery or worn solo in minimalist form. A fun reminder that watches live at the intersection of utility, design and personal style.
Elsewhere in new releases: Baltic has dropped the limited-edition Scalegraph Transat Café L’Or — a nautically-tuned automatic chronograph designed for sailing with a tacky twist (tachymeter in knots!). De Bethune dares with the DB28XS Yellow Tones, in a vivid yellow-titanium case and premium finishing. MB&F marks Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ 75th anniversary with twin ultra-limited LM Perpetual editions: one studded in diamonds, the other in titanium EVO mode. Mido brings cultural flair with a Dia de Muertos themed Commander Gradient Catrines Special Edition. Nodus refines pilot-watch value with the Sector II Pilot in black DLC finish and vibrant cockpit accents. Oris goes deep (literally) with its Aquis Pro 1000M diver — 1000 m water resistance, PVD titanium case, big presence. Panerai introduces the first-ever 40 mm ceramic case in its Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460. Seiko steps up sustainability with the Presage SPB529 featuring an up-cycled leather strap and warm Shiracha-toned dial. And Ulysse Nardin brings haute craft via its Freak S enamel editions with the in-house UN-251 calibre. Zenith wraps with the Defy Skyline Tourbillon in rose gold and brick-red dial — modern sport chic meets fine complication.
Finally, for the collector curious, a brief peek at one hot lot heading into tonight: the Richard Mille RM-028 “Les Voiles de St. Barth” (47 mm titanium diver, skeleton dial, yellow rubber strap, full set). With only 100 pieces ever made, full box/papers and strong condition, the preview suggests a defensible hammer range in the US $85-110 k arena — of course condition, set completeness and appeal of the size (47 mm isn’t for everyone) are all key to landing it.
And that’s your daily orbit around the watch universe — a mix of craft, commerce, design and auction drama. Stay tuned, stay curious, and keep your wrist ready.
News Time
First Look: New Independent Watchmaker Aubert & Ramel and their first watch, the Ouréa
Aubert & Ramel debuts as a new independent atelier with the Ouréa, a 14-piece limited edition showcasing artisanal construction and a 72-hour hand-wound movement. The three-dimensional design uses titanium and brass with a matte case and a glacial-patterned silver dial. Key components like the balance and escape wheels are made in-house, underscoring the project’s craft focus. Priced at CHF 72,000, production spans two years, beginning with six platinum subscription pieces.
The Most Exciting Watches Sotheby’s Is Auctioning This Fall
On November 9, Sotheby’s will auction a historically important Rolex Oyster once owned by Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English Channel, with estimates topping $1.3 million. The sale also includes the Olmsted Complications Collection of rare Patek Philippe pocket watches. A complete set of Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 pocket watches is expected to achieve more than $10 million. Collectors are drawn by the pieces’ rarity, provenance, and exceptional craftsmanship.
Toto Wolff’s IWC Is Being Auctioned For Charity At Bonhams
Toto Wolff’s IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, worn during the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix, is heading to Bonhams in support of Laureus Sport for Good. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch features IWC’s SPRIN-g PROTECT® system for advanced shock resistance and is estimated at CHF 80,000 to 200,000. The live sale concludes at the Laureus Charity Night in Zurich. The winning bidder also receives a signed warranty card and a personalized team polo shirt, with proceeds benefiting programs that support over 20,000 children annually.
Feature Time
Photo Report: Paris Fashion Week 2025
The SS26 shows in Paris doubled as a watch spotter’s dream, with everything from vintage Rolex ref. 6590 pieces to contemporary Serica and Cartier models on wrists. A clear trend toward smaller, rectangular cases emerged, often styled alongside jewelry for a more expressive look. Some attendees notably went watch-less, highlighting the fashion crowd’s range from minimal to maximal. Altogether, the report captures a lively cross-section of classic and modern tastes set against Paris’s high-fashion backdrop.
The Latest Time
Baltic
This Stunning Automatic Chronograph Outdoes Itself with a Nautical Retrofit
The Baltic Scalegraph Transat Café L’Or is a limited-edition nautical chronograph designed for the Transat Café L’Or sailing race. It replaces the usual “big eye” with a yacht timer and adds a tachymeter calibrated for knots to suit life on the water. A champagne dial that shifts with the light pairs with 100m water resistance and a bi-compax movement with date. Limited to 200 pieces, it ships with a steel bracelet and a rubber strap at $2,030.
De Bethune
Introducing: The Bold Colour of the new De Bethune DB28XS Yellow Tones
De Bethune’s DB28XS Yellow Tones showcases a vivid yellow polished titanium case achieved through thermal oxidation, set at a compact 38.7mm. The hand-wound calibre DB2115V14 offers a six-day power reserve, marrying avant-garde design with high-end finishing. Yellow titanium elements across the dial amplify the bold aesthetic while maintaining comfort on the wrist. Priced at USD 115,000, it comes with both alligator and canvas straps.
MB&F
Introducing: Two MB&F LM Perpetual for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary
To celebrate the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, MB&F presents two ultra-limited LM Perpetual models: a diamond-set Baguette in steel and the sportier EVO in titanium. Both are powered by Stephen McDonnell’s integrated perpetual calendar with a 72-hour power reserve, showcasing signature three-dimensional architecture. The Baguette dazzles with 48 baguette-cut diamonds and a turquoise dial, while the EVO leans into lightweight durability with vivid blue accents. Production is capped at five and seven pieces respectively.
Introducing: MB&F LM Perpetual EVO & LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds For The 75th Anniversary Of Seddiqi Read More >
Mido
Introducing the Mido Commander Gradient Catrines Special Edition
Mido’s Commander Gradient Catrines Special Edition honors Día de Muertos with a vibrant La Catrina dial and interchangeable straps. The transparent acrylic dial and Super-LumiNova enhance depth and visibility, while cultural motifs bring character to the design. Inside, the automatic Caliber 80 delivers up to 80 hours of power reserve. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case, the watch is priced at $1,390.
Nodus
The Best Bargain in Pilot’s Watches Now Looks Better Than Ever
Nodus updates the Sector II Pilot with a black DLC finish that boosts durability and a stealthy aesthetic. A blacked-out dial with neon green cockpit-inspired accents keeps legibility high, while the Seiko NH36 movement is in-house regulated for notable accuracy. Water resistance to 100m and a comfortable bracelet with quick-release and micro-adjust add utility. At $625, it remains a standout value among pilot’s watches.
Oris
Oris makes a splash with its most advanced dive watch yet
The Aquis Pro 1000M arrives as Oris’s most advanced dive watch, developed alongside professional divers. A blue gradient wave dial and Super-LumiNova ensure clarity underwater, supported by the Rotation Safety System to prevent accidental bezel moves. The gray-PVD titanium case measures 49.50mm and comes with interchangeable rubber straps. Powered by the Oris 733 automatic, it offers a 41-hour reserve and serious 1000m water resistance.
Pound for Pound, This Could Be the Most Capable Dive Watch on the Market | Gear Patrol Read More >
Panerai
First Look: The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, The First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai
Panerai debuts its first 40mm ceramic watch, the Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460, with a sandblasted black case and titanium caseback for strength and lightness. The sandwich dial features Super-LumiNova, small seconds at 9, date at 3, and a GMT hand for travel utility. Water-resistant to 300m, it runs the automatic P.900/GMT with a three-day reserve. It ships on black calfskin with an extra rubber strap and is priced at EUR 15,300 or USD 15,800.
Seiko
Introducing the Seiko Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap Limited Edition SPB529
Seiko’s Presage SPB529 blends Japanese craft with sustainability by featuring an upcycled leather strap. Its Shiracha-toned dial evokes autumn warmth, complemented by gold markers and a polished case. The Caliber 6R55 delivers over 72 hours of reserve, balancing style with performance. Limited to 3,000 pieces, it’s priced at $1,050.
Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak S gets an enamel upgrade
Ulysse Nardin unveils two enamel-enhanced Freak S models in turquoise blue and deep red, limited to 50 pieces total. The in-house caliber UN-251 runs on six gear planes and employs a vertical differential for heightened precision. A patented Grinder winding system provides a 72-hour reserve, while the rotating hour disc is crafted by UN’s enamelling workshop in Le Locle. Housed in 45mm titanium, the red version comes on white rubber and the blue on anthracite, both priced at CHF 153,000.
Zenith
New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon: Rose gold meets brick red
Zenith adds a rose-gold Defy Skyline Tourbillon with a brick-red dial inspired by the brand’s Le Locle architecture. A 41mm case offers 10 bar water resistance, with a sunburst dial engraved with stars and the El Primero 3630 movement inside for a 50-hour reserve. The model ships on a rose-gold bracelet or brick-red rubber strap. Pricing lands at €97,400.
First Look: The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Rose Gold with Brick-Red dial Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
Gerald Genta
Hands-On: Gérald Genta Minute Repeater Watch
Crafted in yellow gold with a sleek cushion-shaped case, this limited edition minute repeater pays tribute to Genta’s design legacy while embracing modern minimalism. A black onyx dial with slender gold hands and indices keeps the aesthetic clean and elegant. The manually wound Caliber GG-002 is developed in-house, delivering a bright, clear chime and meticulous finishing. Limited to 10 pieces per year and priced at CHF 320,000, it blends traditional horology with contemporary design.
Panerai
Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM 01460
The Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM 01460 pairs a 40 mm scratch-resistant ceramic case with a black sun-brushed sandwich dial and luminous markers. Its dual time function is powered by the in-house P.900/GMT, offering a three-day reserve for practical travel-ready performance. Water resistance to 300 meters underscores its tool-watch credentials without sacrificing sleek styling. It’s a meaningful evolution within Panerai’s lineup, balancing heritage and innovation.
RZE
RZE Resolute 36 Review: A Distinctly Refined Field Watch
The Resolute 36 refines the field watch formula with surface-hardened grade 2 titanium and a slim 36 mm by 9.5 mm profile. A multi-layered sector-style dial and polished bezel bring sophistication, while the case and bracelet keep weight to just 36 grams. Powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic, it offers 100 meters of water resistance and daily reliability. At $599, it balances durability, comfort, and elevated detail.
Hands-On: The RZE Resolute 36 Read More >
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Bovet Dimier Recital 17 L.E. 45.3MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (R170001) - was bid to $15,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2014 Richard Mille RM 028 Diver Les Voiles de St. Barth L.E. 47MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (RM028)
Auction Report: Richard Mille RM 028 Les Voiles de St. Barth (47 mm Titanium, Skeleton Dial, Yellow Rubber Strap)
As the gavel draws near this evening, with the auction set to close at 11:00 pm on October 23, 2025, we turn our attention to the offering of this very special timepiece: the Richard Mille RM 028 “Les Voiles de St. Barth” edition in 47 mm titanium, skeleton dial, yellow rubber strap, full box and papers dated 2014. The seller represents this example as being in “very good” condition and reports that it is accompanied by the original presentation box and documentation, dated 2014. Given that this is from a limited edition of only 100 pieces worldwide, and given the strong provenance and full set, this piece warrants careful consideration.
The RM 028 collection from the maison of Richard Mille marks the brand’s foray into serious diving watches. Crafted in a robust 47 mm titanium case with an integrated unidirectional 60-minute bezel and water resistance rated to 300 m, the RM 028 is big, bold and built for the deep. The skeletonised dial gives a clear view of the automatic calibre RMAS7, which powers the watch with approximately 55 hours of power reserve. For the limited edition “Les Voiles de St. Barth”, the model is further distinguished by bright-yellow accents—the crown portion, bezel markings and rubber strap—visually paying homage to the azure seas and bright sunshine of the Caribbean regatta.
This edition was created in tribute to the prestigious annual regatta Les Voiles de St. Barth held in the Caribbean around the island of St. Barthélemy; Richard Mille became a principal partner of the event from 2010 onward, and the RM 028 appeared as part of the brand’s nautical offering. The limited production run of 100 pieces further enhances its desirability, and editions with full sets and strong condition tend to attract serious collector interest.
Value‐wise, secondary market listings show a fair picture. A listing of this very model was offered at approximately US$70,200. More broadly, other RM divers such as the RM 028 (non-St. Barth variants) have been advertised in the US in the range of US$70,000 to US$130,000 depending on condition, set completeness and provenance. While some commentary notes that certain Richard Mille diving models may trade in the US $130,000-190,000 range through grey-market channels, that is with caveats and often for newer or more sought variants.
Given all that context, the current lot is very compelling: we have the full set (box and papers), the rare yellow strap variant tied to a specific sailing event, and a claimed very good condition state. From an auction perspective, the limited-edition nature should add a premium over similar non-special-edition RM 028s. On the flip side, the diver’s large 47 mm diameter may limit appeal to a subset of buyers, and condition (despite being described as very good) will always be key—micro-scratches, strap wear, bezel marks, or service history will impact value. In the hours leading up to auction close, bidders should verify authentication details (correct serial/edition number out of 100), confirm box/papers match the watch, inspect the strap condition (since rubber can degrade), and ideally review service history (for water-resistance assurance given dive orientation).
In summary, this piece represents a fine opportunity to acquire one of Richard Mille’s rarer diver models, linked to a select 100-piece edition and full provenance. Assuming condition matches the seller’s representation, I would view a successful hammer price in the region of US $85,000-110,000 as defensible given current comparables and the edition’s rarity; a lower result might reflect condition, missing accessories, or weaker interest in large diameter divers at auction. With the close of bidding just hours away, any bidder should move decisively—but also with full due diligence.
Current bid: $7,500