BuyingTime Daily - October 22, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – October 22, 2025
The watch world seems to be in full reflection mode this week — part self-celebration, part market recalibration. Phillips is preparing its “Decade One” sale, a two-day horological blockbuster marking ten years of Bacs & Russo. The catalog reads like a greatest-hits album: a steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518, a parade of Rolex Paul Newman Daytonas, and an array of independent rarities designed to make collectors forget their financial caution for at least one weekend. It’s more than a sale; it’s a decade-long victory lap and a reminder that auction fever never really cools — it just waits for the next headline lot.
Speaking of fever, the Swiss export numbers show something closer to a chill. September brought a 56% plunge in shipments to the U.S., knocking America from its long-held top-two perch behind the U.K. and Japan. A 39% tariff continues to wreak havoc on pricing and logistics, and while other regions saw growth, the American drop dragged global totals down 3.1%. Retailers are tightening inventories, and brands are holding their breath hoping the tariff tantrum is temporary.
Meanwhile, Rolex is the elephant in the boutique, quietly absorbing rising gold prices without another retail hike — at least not yet. After two increases earlier this year, the brand appears to be prioritizing stability and optics over short-term gain. With nearly half the cost of some gold references now tied directly to the metal itself, a future price correction feels inevitable. Until then, Rolex is betting patience plays better than panic.
On the creative front, Maison Alcée is teaming with Hodinkee for a new launch todaythat promises to showcase the French atelier’s watchmaking artistry with editorial flair. Across Lake Geneva, Antiquorum celebrates its 50th at the Ritz, reflecting on a half-century of pioneering auctions that shaped modern collecting. The brand-book corner also gets literary with five new releases from Ressence, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and others — proof that when the market softens, we all start reading again.
Hollywood offered its own horological parade at the Academy Museum Gala, where Robert Downey Jr. flashed a Gerald Charles skeleton, Channing Tatum went full-diamond with Tiffany, and Dwayne Johnson strapped on a Blancpain Métiers d’Art Damasquinée worth more than most Teslas. Clearly, the red carpet has become the new Basel.
In new releases, Elka and Ace Jewelers mark fifty years with bilingual limiteds in Hebrew and Eastern Arabic, Farer joins the integrated-bracelet club with the sleek Integra, IWC Schaffhausen kicks off the Year of the Horse in burgundy and gold, and Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a refined mid-size Reverso. Oris keeps it practical with a Sellita-powered Aquis Pro 1000m, Robot gets weird in the best way with its futuristic Robotic One, Speake-Marin paints the town violet with its Openworked Tourbillon, and Timex returns with another crowd-pleasing GMT collaboration that’ll sell out before you finish your coffee.
And in the auction trenches, Tuesday’s MB&F MAD Edition 1 bundle failed to meet its reserve, topping out at just $14,000. Tonight’s standout is the Bovet Dimier Récital 17 — a triple-time, double-moon, all-rose-gold spectacle currently bid to $12,000 with a likely landing closer to $35K. It’s proof that even in a cautious market, collectors will still chase mechanical theater when the curtain rises.
That’s today’s tick-by-tick tour through the watch universe — where tariffs bite, gold gleams, and the moonphase still runs on perfect time.
News Time
Auctions: Previewing Phillips’ Massive ‘Decade One’ Auction and Reflecting on Ten Years of Phillips with Bacs and Russo
Phillips is staging its “Decade One” sale on November 8–9 to mark ten years with Bacs and Russo, assembling a headline-grabbing catalog. Highlights include a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel, multiple Paul Newman Daytonas, and noteworthy independent creations. The sale both celebrates the last decade in watch collecting and positions to set fresh records with its breadth of historical and contemporary pieces. Collectors can expect a market temperature check across blue-chip classics and modern grails.
Swiss Watch Exports to the U.S. Plummeted 56% in September
Swiss watch exports to the U.S. sank 56% in September to CHF 157.7 million, the second straight monthly decline. The contraction is linked to a 39% U.S. tariff that has disrupted pricing and supply chains, pushing the U.S. down to the third-largest market behind the U.K. and Japan. While many other regions posted gains, the U.S. drop offset broader growth, resulting in a 3.1% global decline year-over-year for the month. Retailers and brands are bracing for tighter availability in the American market if tariffs persist.
Swiss watch exports to the United States slump by 55% in September Read More >
When will Rolex hike prices to cover rising gold price?
Rolex has not yet implemented additional price increases despite gold at record highs and elevated tariffs raising production costs, especially for gold Daytonas. Earlier hikes of up to 15% in January and 3% in May helped, but analysts note that nearly half the price of some gold references now stems from the metal itself. Possible explanations include expectations that tariffs may be temporary, strategic gold reserves bought at lower prices, or a deliberate effort to avoid market shocks in the U.S. The brand appears to be prioritizing stability and long-term positioning over short-term adjustments.
Feature Time
Maison Alcée x Hodinkee | Launching October 23
Maison Alcée is collaborating with Hodinkee for a launch event on October 23, 2025. The feature highlights their unique offerings and will be promoted through a dedicated story page. The project is trending toward publication, with no “used” or “rejected” flags set. Expect coverage that frames the partnership and what makes the release notable.
Meet Antiquorum: the World’s First Watch Auction House
Antiquorum marks its 50th anniversary with an auction at the Ritz Hotel Geneva, underscoring decades of innovation in watch collecting. Managing director Julien Schaerer recounts the house’s pioneering thematic auctions and market-shaping influence. The catalog includes rarities like the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” and historically significant pieces, spanning vintage to contemporary. The story emphasizes expertise, trust, and a balance of digital tools with horological passion.
Recommended Reading: Our Five Favorite New Books On Watches (And More)
This reading list spotlights five new horological titles. Highlights include Ressence’s “Ahead of Time” for the brand’s 15th anniversary and Vacheron Constantin’s “Time is Art” celebrating 270 years with rich photography. Daniel Bourn’s “The Collections Vol. 1” and Ben Bertucci’s “One of One — The Book” showcase rare and bespoke watch and car stories, while Audemars Piguet’s “The Watch — Stories and Savoir Faire” serves as a broad reference on watchmaking. Together, they offer a mix of history, design, and expert insights.
The 12 Best Watches at the Academy Museum Gala, From Channing Tatum’s Tiffany to Dwayne Johnson’s Blancpain
The Academy Museum Gala doubled as a showcase for standout timepieces on the red carpet. Robert Downey Jr. wore a Gerald Charles Maestro 8.0 Squelette, and Channing Tatum sported a diamond-set Tiffany Eternity. Dwayne Johnson appeared with a Blancpain Métiers d’Art Damasquinée valued at $146,500, while others highlighted Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre references. The selection underlines luxury watches’ growing visibility at major cultural events.
The Latest Time
Elka
New Ace Jewelers X Elka Diversity Series II Watches: A More Refined Package In Hebrew And Eastern Arabic
To mark Ace Jewelers’ 50th anniversary, Elka and the Amsterdam retailer created limited editions of 50 pieces per variant with either Hebrew or Eastern Arabic hour markers. Built on Elka’s slimmer, smaller N Series Case, the watches bring improved water resistance and refined proportions. Buyers can choose leather straps or a stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet. Pricing is €2,180 on straps and €2,230 on bracelet.
Farer
Farer Integra Watch Review: An Integrated Bracelet Watch That Overcomes Assumptions
The Integra introduces Farer’s take on the integrated-bracelet category with a 38.5 mm stainless steel case and a thin 10.3 mm profile. A cushion-shaped bezel softens the geometry, while 100 m water resistance and a screw-down crown add practicality. Four dial options include copper, blue, mother-of-pearl, and malachite, all powered by the Sellita SW300-1 with a 56-hour reserve. It ships with a steel bracelet and color-matched rubber strap, priced from $1,650 to $1,750.
IWC Schaffhausen
Introducing: The Burgundy-Toned IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse
This limited edition celebrates the Chinese Lunar New Year with a burgundy dial and gold-plated hands and indices. The 42 mm stainless steel case houses the in-house calibre IW 52011, delivering a 7-day power reserve and a gold rotor shaped like a horse. A galloping horse motif appears on the power reserve gauge, linking the design to the zodiac theme. Limited to 500 pieces, it comes with black alligator and additional burgundy straps at EUR 15,300.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
First Look: The new Mid-Size Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds
Maintaining classic Reverso proportions, the 40.1 x 24.4 mm stainless steel case adds contemporary refinement. A coin-inspired guilloché dial, applied Arabic numerals, and blued dauphine hands elevate the aesthetic. Inside, the hand-wound calibre 822 offers a 42-hour power reserve, paired with a Casa Fagliano black calfskin strap. It joins the permanent collection at about USD 8,000 / EUR 8,000 / CHF 6,800.
Oris
First Look: The New, More Accessible Oris Aquis Pro 1000m with Sellita Movement
Oris updates its pro-grade 1,000 m diver with a more serviceable Sellita automatic movement for affordability and practicality. The titanium case retains the patented Rotation Safety System, helium escape valve, and robust ergonomics. A wave-pattern dial and luminous indices maximize underwater legibility, while a micro-adjustable rubber strap improves comfort. Priced at CHF 3,400, it targets divers who want capability without excess cost.
Robot
New Robot Robotic One Watch: The Next Chapter For The Czech Brand
Designed by Marcus Eilinger, Robotic One embraces biomorphic and robotic cues in a distinctive 43.2 mm 904L steel case. The asymmetric silhouette, unusual pushers, and vertically brushed dial create a bold, futuristic character. Powered by the Caliber R11242 automatic movement with 55 hours of reserve, it arrives in a brushed silver scheme with blue and orange accents. At $9,000 USD, it aims to redefine the brand’s aesthetic while honoring its Czech roots.
Speake-Marin
An Horological Study in Color: Speake-Marin Presents the Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour
This limited-edition One & Two Openworked variant features a vivid violet baseplate and a flying tourbillon with micro-rotor architecture. Offered in 38 mm and 42 mm Grade 5 titanium Piccadilly cases, it includes an openworked power-reserve display and violet calfskin strap. The in-house SMA05 automatic movement delivers a 72-hour power reserve with extensive hand-finishing. Pricing is CHF 69,400 (38 mm) and CHF 69,900 (42 mm), excluding taxes.
Timex
The Third Time’s a Charm for Timex’s Viral GMT Watch
Limited to 1,000 pieces, the Timex x James Brand Automatic GMT Nocturne Edition introduces a forged carbon fiber dial to the line. A brushed stainless steel case, 200 m water resistance, and the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement bring robust specs. The black-and-white palette gets a jolt from red-orange accents on the GMT hand and 12 o’clock marker. At $749, it blends functionality, distinctive materials, and accessible pricing.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, MB&F MAD Edition 1 Set Bundle (4 watches) 42MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (M.A.D. 1), did not make its reserve. The high bid was $14,000 - make an offer]
Bovet Dimier Recital 17 L.E. 45.3MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (R170001)
Auction Report: Theatrical Travel — Bovet Dimier Récital 17 L.E. (R170001)
File this one under gloriously over-the-top and unapologetically niche. Although the listing calls it the “Récital 6 Orbis Mundi,” the reference R170001—and the dial architecture with twin world-time subdials and a double-hemisphere moon—match the Bovet Dimier Récital 17, not the Récital 6. The Récital 17 is the triple-time-zone Dimier with a hand-wound seven-day calibre, day/night and city indications on each satellite subdial, and that signature precision moonphase angled to mirror Earth’s axial tilt. The moon complication is engineered to need correction just once every 128 years, which is delightfully on brand for Bovet’s sense of horological theater.
The case here is 45.3 mm in rose gold with an openworked presentation—Dimier’s more modern, crown-at-3 o’clock take on Bovet—and it’s part of a limited run of 100 pieces worldwide. On wrist, the watch wears like a small stage set: local time centered; two independently set reference times at 3 and 9 o’clock with their own day/night and city rings; small seconds and power-reserve details tucked around the edges; and the double-dome moonphase floating over an aventurine-style star field. The seller notes very good condition with light wear and small case nicks, and the watch comes without box and papers. Based on published specs and retailer write-ups, the Récital 17’s original U.S. retail was about $61,855 in rose gold, with jeweled-bezel variants priced far higher.
Market context matters with a reference this esoteric. Recent professional listings for R170001 in rose gold—similarly lacking box and papers—have been offered around $37,895, giving us a live, apples-to-apples signpost for trading levels. Broader Dimier Récital asking prices show the Récital 6 Orbis Mundi, a different model, clustered notably lower in the low- to mid-$20Ks, which underscores the Récital 17’s stronger desirability among Bovet’s globe-trotting, moon-obsessed faithful. A separate reseller also highlights the 100-piece limitation on Récital 17 variants, which helps support values when provenance is clean.
History-wise, the Récital 17 landed in the mid-2010s as one of Dimier’s statement pieces, pairing Manufacture Dimier 1738 finishing with a seven-day hand-wound movement and the triple-zone layout. Watchonista and WorldTempus both emphasize the long-interval moonphase and the technical logic of the city/day-night satellites—a combination that makes the watch unusually practical for frequent flyers despite its operatic looks.
Given condition (very good but with nicks), missing kit (no box/papers), and current listings, my hammer-price expectation for this example lands in the $32,000–$40,000 window, with the upper end more likely if the photos show crisp edges, clean screws, and an unblemished dial furniture. The seller’s description aligns with typical honest wear for a 45 mm rose-gold Bovet that’s actually been worn, and the limited run should keep a floor under bidding absent hidden service needs. The auction closes at 9:18 pm ET on Wednesday, October 22, 2025; if you’re playing, have your ceiling in place and don’t get hypnotized by the moon discs in the last minute.
As a collecting note, set the moonphase only when the hands are in the lower half of the dial and use a current lunar calendar; it keeps the gear train happy on these high-precision displays. Then enjoy one of the more transportive travel watches of the past decade—a pocket watch masquerading as a wrist instrument, in the best possible way.
Sources & comps: Chrono24 listing for R170001 with current ask and full spec; Essential Watches archive for Récital 17 retail pricing and reference mapping; Watchonista and WorldTempus technical overviews of the Récital 17’s triple-time and 128-year moon; additional market color from Chrono24 Dimier overview and a retailer noting 100-piece limitation.
Current bid: $12,000