BuyingTime Daily - October 20, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – October 20, 2025
WatchTime New York kicked off its 10th edition at Gotham Hall with champagne, chatter, and more lume than a moonlit runway. Over forty brands joined the celebration—everyone from Artisans de Geneve to Citizen—proving that a decade in, the show still draws serious wrist energy. Even Kari Voutilainen and Bertrand Meylan turned up for the anniversary dinner, which segued into a weekend of whiskey tastings and collector camaraderie.
Meanwhile, the Swiss watch industry is still trying to decide if it’s climbing or coasting. Rising gold prices and a stubbornly strong franc aren’t helping, but the pre-owned market—now a $22.8 billion global force—is making the whole game feel more fluid. Platforms like Chrono24 and Chronext have normalized secondhand luxury, and younger buyers don’t seem to care if a watch’s first owner isn’t them.
Richemont’s TimeVallée keeps expanding, opening another U.S. outpost in Los Angeles with CH Jewelers, while Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato quietly turns 50, reminding everyone it was doing integrated-bracelet chic before it was a hashtag. Over at Audemars Piguet, the new Manchester AP House proves that nothing says “haute horlogerie” like darts and DJ decks in a Georgian townhouse.
On the lighter side, the “Coolest Flex” right now might just be a Casio, at least according to the Box + Papers crew, who note that Tyler, the Creator’s affordable wrist game is quietly reshaping taste. Casio itself leans into nostalgia with a reissue of Marty McFly’s calculator watch, packaged like an ’80s VHS and timed for Back to the Future Day.
Fresh metal keeps rolling in too. Breguet celebrates its 250th year with a spread of new releases, Oris teams up with RedBar for a fiery red dial diver, and Studio Underd0g partners with Fears for a Mimosa-colored cushion case that’s equal parts brunch and bravado. Apple’s Ultra 3, now with 3,000 nits of brightness, continues to gamify your pulse, while Grand Seiko’s Snow Blue Tentagraph proves that serenity still sells.
The collector crowd is buzzing about Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665—because nothing says “2025 flex” like twin regulators syncing in real time—and yes, the Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” is back in the spotlight, this time under the hammer. With full stickers, September papers, and market comps hovering near $18K, it’s another reminder that some heroes never fade, they just get relisted.
Good hunting, and happy timing.
News Time
10th Edition of WatchTime New York Kicks Off With Friday VIP Jubilee
The 10th Edition of WatchTime New York opened with a lively VIP cocktail at Gotham Hall, marking a decade of the show. Over forty brands participated, including newcomers like Artisans de Geneve and Citizen, drawing collectors and industry personalities. An anniversary dinner brought together notable figures such as Kari Voutilainen and Bertrand Meylan. The weekend promised more community activities, including whiskey tastings and special programming.
Which way now for the Swiss watch industry?
Entering 2025, the Swiss watch industry showed cautious optimism after expectations for a post-pandemic boom went unmet. A shift toward the U.S. market buoyed growth, but new tariffs raised concerns, especially for entry and mid-level segments. Rising gold prices and a stronger Swiss franc continued to push prices higher, challenging perceptions of value. Engaging Gen Z and women, and the growing acceptance of pre-owned, emerged as key themes for future resilience.
TimeVallée continues US expansion
Richemont-owned TimeVallée opened a new Los Angeles showroom with CH Jewelers, expanding to 50 stores worldwide. The space curates around 30 brands, including Baume & Mercier, Chanel, and IWC, aiming to serve a diverse local clientele. Despite speculation about a slowdown, the network plans further openings in multiple markets. The concept emphasizes a tailored luxury retail experience shaped to local preferences.
Pre-owned Watches: Growing Variety in a Thriving Market
The pre-owned watch market has surged roughly 400 percent over two decades, evolving from skepticism to mainstream acceptance. Certified programs and authenticity guarantees from brands and retailers have built trust, with global trading volume at about $22.84 billion in 2024 and expected to rise. Longevity, repairability, and value retention make pre-owned pieces compelling to a wide audience. Prices have stabilized at elevated levels after pandemic-era spikes, as platforms like Chrono24 and Chronext standardize the experience.
Feature Time
The Coolest Flex Right Now Is a Cheap Watch
Affordable watches are having a moment, proving style doesn’t require a luxury budget. Celebrities like Tyler, the Creator show how a simple Casio can be both cool and culturally resonant. With broader access and enthusiasm in the community, newcomers can collect without overspending. The Box + Papers newsletter explores how to blend function, taste, and cost.
The Flyback: So Many New Watches Edition!
This roundup spotlights a surge of new releases across brands and styles. Highlights include the Möels 528 Series 2 with a handwound movement, fresh Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon variants, and Formex’s colorful Essence Ceramica. H. Moser’s Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly brings F1 inspiration, while Kollokium’s Projekt 02 features topographic dial art. Seiko’s revival of the Rotocall taps into nostalgia with a playful digital classic.
Complete history & Highlights of Girard Perregaux’s Laureato
Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato turns 50, tracing its lineage from a pioneering quartz chronometer to refined in-house mechanicals. Born in 1975’s wave of radical integrated-bracelet design, it blended dress polish with tool-watch pragmatism. Today’s Laureato Fifty adds a new automatic movement, better water resistance, and crisp detailing. It reaffirms the model’s lasting appeal among enthusiasts.
Interview with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin
This interview previews Bulgari’s vision under CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, set to publish on October 20, 2025. Expect perspective on strategy, design direction, and brand positioning in a shifting luxury market. It reflects a forward-looking view across product and culture. See the full discussion at the link below.
Vinyl, darts, and design: how Audemars Piguet reimagined the watch boutique for Manchester
AP’s new Manchester AP House turns shopping into an immersive hangout in a renovated Georgian townhouse. The space mixes minimal interiors with local cultural references, from the worker bee motif to Factory Records nods. Guests find a bar, a games room, and even DJ turntables to set the vibe. It’s a relaxed, experiential setting to explore the brand’s pieces.
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: Olivecoat reimagines the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Jaeger-LeCoultre collaborates with Filipino webcomic artist Olivecoat to retell the Reverso’s story as a digital comic. The project blends Eastern visual language with Western narrative structure to humanize the brand’s icon. It seeks to reach new audiences by emphasizing emotion and relationships over pure mechanics. A printed collector’s edition will complement the online debut.
5+ New Watches Debuting at WatchTime New York 2025
WatchTime New York’s 10th anniversary brings debuts from Armin Strom, Oris, Frederique Constant, Hautlence, and Parmigiani Fleurier. Standouts include Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 and Oris’s Big Crown Calibre 113 with a 10‑day reserve. Frederique Constant leans into vintage moonphases, while Hautlence spotlights a spherical display. Parmigiani’s Tonda PF 36mm underscores refined craftsmanship.
Go back to the future with Marty McFly’s calculator watch
Casio marks the film franchise’s 40th anniversary with a reissue of Marty McFly’s calculator watch. Design cues nod to the DeLorean’s taillights and time-circuit buttons, housed in nostalgic videocassette-style packaging. Priced at £115, it channels retro-futurist charm with modern collectability. The drop coincides with Back to the Future Day on October 21.
I’m Obsessed With Investment Watches—You Can’t Go Wrong With These Picks
This feature explores watches as personal milestones rather than mere assets. It recounts memories, like a honeymoon Rolex, to show how timepieces can carry meaning. Recommendations span budgets and tastes, including classics from Cartier and Audemars Piguet. The guiding principle is emotional resonance and lasting wearability.
Buying Guide: Symmetrical Beaties, Six Of The Finest Two-register Chronographs
Six compelling two-register chronographs are profiled for design and performance. The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon in dark red offers stealth and legibility. Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono Blue is warm and balanced, while IWC’s Portugieser is elegantly laid out. Angelus, Hanhart, and TAG Heuer round out the list with craft, heritage, and iconic flair.
Introducing Vieren and Canada’s first female Swiss watch brand founder
Founded by Jess Chow, Vieren marks five years as a female-led Swiss brand with a modern ethos. It emphasizes certified Swiss-made automatics, gender-neutral design, and ethical production. Anniversary pieces invite global artists to reinterpret the debut watch as a creative collaboration. The brand aims to balance timeless craft with contemporary purpose.
The Need for a Watch Strap Inspired Veblenist
After failing to find a replacement strap for a vintage Speedmaster, Howard Riady founded Veblenist in 2017. The Chicago atelier crafts distinctive straps in exotic leathers and unique finishes, plus watch boxes and trays. Offerings serve both high-end mechanicals and Apple Watch wearers, with prices from $110 to $265. The name nods to “Veblen goods,” highlighting the allure of luxury objects.
The Latest Time
Alpina
Introducing: Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial
A robust 39mm steel sports watch built for outdoor use, it carries 200 meters of water resistance and a luminous California dial in autumnal green or brown. The gradient dial and mix of Roman and Arabic numerals improve legibility in changing conditions. Inside is the AL-525 automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph with a 38-hour power reserve. At EUR 1,695, it blends everyday wearability with adventure-ready specs.
Benrus
Introducing: The Benrus Type 2 Mil Spec Re-Edition
A faithful modern take on a 1970s military tool, it uses a 39.5mm sandblasted steel case with an asymmetrical profile for crown protection. Water resistance is rated to 365 meters, while a matte black dial with bold Arabic numerals and Super‑LumiNova ensures clarity. The ETA 2892A2 automatic offers a 42-hour reserve and central timekeeping. Priced at CHF 1,590 or USD 1,790, it honors its Navy roots with real-world durability.
Breguet
All The 2025 Breguet Watch Releases So Far
Marking its 250th anniversary, Breguet unveils a diverse lineup that underscores heritage and craft. Highlights span the elegant Reine de Naples, the globetrotting Marine Hora Mundi 5555, and a technically rich Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255. Each piece showcases distinct details and limited production in Breguet gold. Upcoming releases promise more facets of the maison’s long history.
Frederique Constant
Introducing: Frederique Constant Classics Carrée Moonphase Automatic
Art Deco lines meet practical romance with the collection’s first moon phase display. Silver-toned or navy sunray dials feature a herringbone texture inside a polished rectangular case measuring 42.30mm x 30mm. A sapphire back reveals the automatic calibre FC-333, and water resistance is 30 meters. On an alligator‑embossed leather strap, it’s priced at CHF 1,695.
Furlan Marri
Introducing: The Blue Sector edition of the Furlan Marri Cornes de Vache
Vintage spirit meets modern spec in a 37.5mm steel case with signature cow‑horn lugs. The blue sector dial has applied markers and curved hands, powered by the La Joux‑Perret G100 automatic with a 68‑hour reserve at ±7 s/d. Two quick‑release leather straps, in sand and light blue, are included. Priced at CHF 1,250 before taxes, it channels emotive design with daily practicality.
Moritz Grossmann
Introducing: Titanium or Tremblage… The New Versions of the Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon
Two new expressions—Tourbillon Titanium and Tourbillon Tremblage—carry forward the 2013 original’s mechanics. The Titanium model uses a 44.5mm case and guilloché dial, while the Tremblage pairs hand‑engraved salmon tone with 18k white gold. Both run the in‑house Calibre 103.0 with a flying tourbillon and 72‑hour reserve. Limited to 12 pieces (EUR 165,700) and 8 pieces (EUR 207,900) respectively.
Ollech & Wajs
Ollech & Wajs reimagines 1960s Caribbean dive watch
The OW C‑1000 Yellow revives a pioneer 1,000‑meter diver in a compact 39.5mm case. A high‑visibility yellow dial transitions to light grey at depth, with oversized triangular markers and Super‑LumiNova. It’s fitted with a domed sapphire, screw‑down crown, and the OW Soprod Newton Precision P092 movement. Delivered on a black RAF strap, with additional options for the brand’s tool‑watch devotees.
Oris
Introducing: Oris x RedBar Divers Limited Edition
A 39mm steel diver with a striking red fumé dial commemorates RedBar’s 2025 Global Meetup return to NYC. The automatic Oris 733 offers a 41‑hour reserve behind luminous markers and hands. Limited to 250 pieces, it’s priced at $2,950 and appears online and at Windup Watch Fair. A community‑minded release aligning with Oris’s inclusive, sustainable values.
sjoo Sandstrom
Sjöö Sandström: Royal Steel Chronograph Motikon Edition
A special edition collaboration with Motikon brings two turquoise‑forward chronographs. The 40mm steel case is water resistant to 100 meters and houses the Swiss automatic SS G17 with a 60‑hour reserve. One version is fully turquoise, the other contrasts with black subdials. Pricing is approximately $5,800 on bracelet and $5,600 on rubber.
Studio Underd0g
Introducing: The Studio Underd0g x Fears 02Series Mim0sa (Live Pics)
A playful 38mm cushion‑case collab with a bubbly crystal texture and yellow‑to‑orange dial gradient. Layers of Super‑LumiNova and the hand‑wound Sellita SW210 keep it lively inside and out. Orders open for nine hours on October 23, 2025 at $1,300, targeting fans who missed earlier runs. It balances cheeky cocktail vibes with classic mechanical charm.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Apple
Apple Watch Ultra 3 Review: Advancing The Gamification Of Life
Apple’s Ultra 3 adds a brighter 3,000‑nits OLED display and smoother always‑on performance while keeping the rugged design intact. New satellite communication boosts safety for emergencies and remote adventures. Battery life and durability remain standouts, and WatchOS leans into playful, motivating visuals like the Waypoint face. At $799, it straddles everyday utility and serious outdoor use.
Armin Strom
First Look: The new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 (Incl. Video)
This limited edition pays tribute to Huygens’ 1665 resonance discovery with a retro‑futurist aesthetic. A 43 mm steel case frames the AFR21_ZG movement, where two independent regulators synchronize through a clutch spring. Openworked architecture reveals the mechanics and finishing up close. Limited to 25 pieces, it’s priced at CHF 82,000 before taxes.
Breguet
Hands-On: The Breguet Classique Souscription Watch Is Proof That Classics Never Truly Age
Breguet’s Classique Souscription embraces a pure one‑hand display and grand feu enamel dial. Its 40 mm proprietary 18K “Breguet gold” case and hand‑wound VSOO movement elevate simplicity into luxury, with 96 hours of power reserve. Traditional movement architecture and meticulous handwork underscore the maison’s heritage. Priced at $59,400, it’s a refined statement of timeless design.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Snow Blue Tentagraph SLGC007
Inspired by Shizukuishi’s snowy vistas, the pale blue Mount Iwate‑pattern dial adds serenity to the high‑beat chronograph. The Calibre 9SC5 brings precision and a 72‑hour reserve, housed in high‑intensity titanium for strength and lightness. Recessed counters, luminescent hands, and sapphire crystal refine legibility and durability. It’s a balanced evolution of the original Tentagraph concept.
MB&F
Hands-On: MB&F LM101 EVO Celebrates 20 Years Of Outside-the-Box Thinking
The LM101 EVO shifts toward daily wear with an 80 m water‑resistant titanium case and improved legibility via black subdials. A rubber strap with a spring‑loaded butterfly clasp boosts comfort without diluting MB&F’s avant‑garde spirit. Green and salmon dials spotlight the balanced architecture overseen by Max Büsser and Kari Voutilainen. At CHF 62,000, it blends bold design with practical upgrades.
sunrex
Hands-On: Sunrex Banana Reef Solar Chronograph Watch
A vintage‑inspired solar chronograph, it pairs a DLC‑coated cushion case and domed crystal with mid‑century cues. The Seiko/Epson VS75A runs up to four months on a full charge and adds split‑timing utility. Gold‑toned hands, faux‑aged lume, and a “Pepsi” 24‑hour sub‑dial deliver character without fuss. Around $480, it offers retro charm minus battery swaps.
Yema
First Look: Yema Rallygraf Alpine Cup Series Hand-Wound Chronograph
Limited to 100 pieces, this 41 mm hand‑wound chronograph honors Alpine racing in crisp white with Alpine‑blue bi‑compax registers. The Sellita SW510 M BH b delivers a 60‑hour reserve in a slimmer, modernized case profile. A numbered caseback and French‑made blue leather strap add collectible details. Priced at EUR 2,190, deliveries begin in early November 2025.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39MM Black Dial Leather Strap (Q1308470) - was bid to $14,700 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” 40MM Black Dial Oyster Bracelet (126710BLNR)
Auction Report: Batman Returns (With Receipts)
The 2025 Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” 126710BLNR on Oyster is the modern sweet spot of the travel lineup: a 40 mm Oystersteel case, black dial with Chromalight, blue 24-hour hand, and the now-iconic black/blue Cerachrom bezel. Inside is the Caliber 3285 with Rolex’s Chronergy escapement and a 70-hour reserve—reliability and accuracy that helped this reference become the default do-everything steel GMT.
“Batman” lore matters for value. The black/blue bezel debuted in 2013 on ref. 116710BLNR; Rolex updated it in 2019 as 126710BLNR with the Jubilee bracelet, then quietly restored the Oyster bracelet option in 2021—precisely what you have here. Collectors still debate Jubilee (“Batgirl”) versus Oyster (“Batman”), but both variants remain core catalog offerings.
As of October 2025, the U.S. retail for 126710BLNR is listed around $11,100, with an aggregated secondary market average near $16,200 for full-set examples in excellent condition. Fresh 2025 “new” listings with stickers are trading higher—commonly in the high-teens; one current Chrono24 listing is posted at $19,200—so ultra-fresh sets still command a premium over the blended average.
Your example is described as new with protective stickers on the bracelet and a complete kit with inner/outer boxes, extras, and papers dated September 13, 2025. That’s strong provenance and timing, placing it at the top of the condition curve. Given today’s comps, a rational hammer for a pristine 2025 full set on Oyster sits roughly in the $16,000–$18,500 band, with spirited bidding and the “as-new” glow pushing it toward $19,000 before premiums. If you want to be competitive without overpaying, a disciplined ceiling just under the current “Buy-It-Now” style asks—call it the high-$18Ks—keeps you within market reality while acknowledging the box-fresh factor.
For context, you’re buying enduring specs rather than annual novelty. The 3285 brings the 70-hour reserve and modern architecture over the older 3186, and the Oyster bracelet returns the sportier wrist feel many prefer for daily wear; none of that is going out of style next year. If the hammer strays much north of $19K, you’re paying a scarcity tax you don’t need to—examples circulate constantly, and this reference remains current production. The auction closes at 9:52 pm on Monday, October 20, 2025, so set your guardrails now and let the bidders with FOMO do the subsidizing.
Good hunting. See it Now on Grailzee >