BuyingTime Daily - October 2, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 2, 2025
The watch world is winding up in style this week as Audemars Piguet makes a dramatic return to Watches & Wonders in 2026, putting Geneva back on every collector’s calendar. After a long absence, AP has decided that rubbing shoulders with Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Chanel is worth the trip—and let’s be honest, that roster is looking pretty irresistible. Meanwhile, Toronto played host to its own budding timepiece fair, complete with pizza dials, indie stars, and the inaugural Timepiece World Awards. It might not be Geneva yet, but the energy is there.
Rolex, ever the sporty traditionalist, is now the title sponsor of SailGP, bringing its logo to high-speed catamarans and embracing sustainability with a flair usually reserved for champagne launches. Not to be outdone, Vacheron Constantin dropped a seven-year project—La Quête du Temps—that’s part automaton, part celestial sculpture, and entirely impossible to explain at a dinner party. And in case anyone forgot the TAG Heuer Monaco is cool, the brand just unveiled a carbon-fiber revolution in oscillator tech under the hood. Yes, carbon springs are officially a thing now.
The independent scene continues to thrive, with Dutch horology proving size doesn’t matter. From Grönefeld to Christiaan van der Klaauw, the Netherlands is making a strong case for being the Silicon Valley of celestial complications. Speaking of silicon, Ulysse Nardin’s new Blast watch uses the stuff like stained glass, while Awake’s lacquered silver-leaf dials shout out Vietnamese artisanship in the most luminous way possible.
Rolliefest 2025 wrapped up in New York with more flex than a red carpet premiere. Rolex was the center of gravity, but Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe found plenty of wrist time too. The event felt like a horological Coachella—minus the flower crowns and plus a few grand complications. Meanwhile, A. Lange & Söhne reminded us all what high watchmaking is with a platinum 1815 Tourbillon that quietly flexes with enamel dials and mechanical purity.
From field-ready titanium tanks by Hamilton and Nodus to mid-century aviation tributes by Timex, the entry-level market is alive with character—and actual value. At the other end of the spectrum, Roger Dubuis gave us a $398,500 Excalibur loaded with knights and mysticism, and Christiaan van der Klaauw launched a planetary display inside a meteorite case. Because of course he did.
And in this week’s auction madness: someone picked up a brand-new Omega Speedmaster Moonphase with a meteorite dial for just $12,900 on Grailzee. That’s about $6,400 off retail for a watch released this summer. The buyer walked away with the full kit—links, cards, boxes, and papers dated July 1st. It’s the sort of cosmic bargain that makes you believe in horological miracles. Flip it? Frame it? Either way, we salute you.
Until tomorrow—keep winding.
News Time
Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026
Audemars Piguet will return to the Geneva fair in 2026 after last exhibiting at SIHH in 2019, underscoring Watches & Wonders’ role as the industry’s premier trade event. Its comeback aligns with an expanded roster that brings the total exhibitors to 66, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, and Cartier. The move reflects AP’s selective approach to global showcases and the value of presenting alongside elite peers. The fair will run April 14–20, 2026, at Palexpo.
Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025
The Toronto Timepiece Show drew approximately 4,600 attendees and showcased over 75 brands in a spacious venue, blending established names with microbrands. Enthusiasts engaged directly with brand reps, tried on watches, and capped the weekend with the Timepiece World Awards across 11 categories. Winners included Isotope Mercury Shadow for Time Only, while People’s Choice ended in a tie between the Isotope Moonshot and Christopher Ward C12 Loco. Organizers confirmed the show will return in 2026.
Feature Time
Business News: Why Rolex Is Doubling Down On Race Sponsorship With SailGP
Rolex has expanded its sports sponsorship footprint by becoming the title partner of SailGP, marking its most significant new commitment in years. The Geneva event featured identical high-tech catamarans racing before more than 8,000 spectators, each prominently carrying the Rolex logo. SailGP’s structure promotes fairness and inclusivity with standardized boats, spending caps, and a mandate for at least one female crew member per team. Sustainability is also central, with the Impact League rewarding teams that reduce emissions and advance inclusivity.
The Evergreens: The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco
First launched in 1969, the Monaco broke with tradition through its sharp, square case and early automatic chronograph technology. Its rise to icon status was cemented by Steve McQueen in “Le Mans,” pushing it firmly into pop culture lore. Over the decades, the line has evolved with vintage references, modern re-editions, and technical concepts that continue to test new materials and forms. Through these iterations, the Monaco remains a testament to TAG Heuer’s appetite for design innovation.
Photo Report: Inside Rolliefest 2025 — The ‘Met Gala’ of Watches (200+ Photos)
Rolliefest 2025 brought together a vibrant community of collectors for two days across landmark New York venues, including the Met and One World Observatory. Although Rolex was a central theme, attendees showcased breadth across brands like Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, and Longines. Highlights included a dinner around the Temple of Dendur, a sky-high brunch, and a Waldorf Astoria farewell cocktail. The event emphasized camaraderie as much as horology, celebrating rare watches and the friendships around them.
Vacheron Constantin La Quête du Temps
Seven years in the making and comprising 6,293 components, La Quête du Temps is a monumental automaton that tells time and tracks celestial events through the movements of an androgynous Astronomer figure. Debuting at the Louvre, it pushes past conventional watchmaking into kinetic sculpture and fine art. The piece integrates a perpetual calendar, retrograde moon phases, and other complex mechanisms with artisanal decoration. It underscores Vacheron Constantin’s ambition to merge technical mastery with narrative and aesthetic depth.
Photo Report: The 2025 Toronto Timepiece Show
Returning for its second year, the Toronto Timepiece Show gathered over 80 brands and thousands of enthusiasts at the Meridian Arts Center. The mix spanned classic sports models, independents, and playful novelties like a pizza-themed chronograph. Standouts ranged from a special Hublot worn by a Canadian indie watchmaker to a Philippe Dufour Simplicity. The debut of the Timepiece World Awards added prestige and momentum to the growing event.
Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage
Cartier’s reputation as a serious watchmaker has grown, with approachable models that capture the maison’s design codes. This guide highlights four accessible paths: the vintage Must de Cartier Tank, the solar-powered Tank Must SolarBeat, the elegant Ronde Must, and the historically important Santos Galbée. Each offers a distinct flavor of Cartier’s aesthetic, from pure form to contemporary tech. Together they show how to experience Cartier’s luxury without excessive spending.
Vox Populi: It’s Complicated
Watchonista’s community shares the complications that matter most, revealing how function intersects with emotion. A GMT might symbolize distance and connection, while a chronograph brings tactile joy in operation. Practical tools like dive bezels and wind-speed indicators serve professional needs, yet whimsical wish-list features—like memory or weather “magic”—spark imagination. The result is a portrait of complications as personal, meaningful, and delightfully diverse.
Eleven Incredible Watches to See at WatchTime New York 2025
To mark its 10th anniversary, WatchTime New York will exhibit eleven standout pieces from October 17–19 at Gotham Hall. Highlights include the vivid Chronoswiss Opus Purple Rain, Gerald Charles’ architecturally striking Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, and Greubel Forsey’s hand-finished Hand Made 2. Konstantin Chaykin’s Wristmons Panda and MB&F’s HM8 Mark 2 Purple showcase playful creativity, while L. Leroy’s Osmior Bal du Temps demonstrates classical excellence. The show invites hands-on engagement with watchmakers and their latest innovations.
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring: opening the age of carbon for the oscillator
TAG Heuer’s TH-Carbonspring marks a step-change in oscillator technology, offering resistance to magnetism and shocks while reducing weight. After a decade of development, it debuts in Monaco and Carrera models that integrate carbon fiber cases and spiral dial motifs. The approach promises enhanced chronometric performance and long-term durability. Backed by four patents and a five-year warranty, TAG Heuer signals readiness for broader adoption.
Dutch Watchmaking: Innovators Behind Van der Klaauw to Grönefeld
Despite its size, the Netherlands has shaped horology from Huygens’ pioneering pendulum to modern independents pushing boundaries. Christiaan van der Klaauw elevates astronomical complications, while the Grönefelds champion precision engineering. Wybe van der Gang’s overbuilt designs, Michiel Holthinrichs’ advances in 3D metal printing, and Stefan Ketelaars’ artisanal path round out a dynamic scene. Together, they form a creative ecosystem that rivals larger watchmaking nations.
Awake Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Watches Celebrate One Year Of Vietnamese Lacquering
Awake’s five-piece Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Vignette series spotlights Hanoi master lacquerers and the centuries-old Vietnamese technique. Each dial blends lacquer with pure silver leaf, creating luminous textures that take more than ten hours per piece. The 39 mm recycled steel cases house La Joux‑Perret’s G101 automatic and add an innovative chiaroscuro-inspired glow. Priced at €2,000, the collection marries heritage craft with contemporary design.
The Latest Time
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Wows With 1815 Tourbillon
A. Lange & Söhne unveils a platinum 1815 Tourbillon limited to 50 pieces, marrying classical tourbillon architecture with modern precision features like stop-seconds and Zero-Reset. The grand feu enamel dial and black-polished components showcase the brand’s meticulous finishing. Powered by the hand-wound caliber L102.1, it balances traditional Saxon details with contemporary engineering for precise setting and reliability. With a 39.5 mm case and elegant proportions, it exemplifies refined high horology.
Bremont
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey
Bremont’s Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey is a 400-piece limited tool watch shaped by the brand’s military design language and its Martin-Baker partnership. A 42 mm Grade 2 titanium case and shock-resistant construction emphasize robustness, while luminous numerals and a meteorite-inspired dial add drama. The BB14-AH automatic movement delivers a 68-hour power reserve. At $6,600, it combines utility, distinctive materials, and everyday wearability.
David Candaux
Hands-On: David Candaux DC12 MaveriK
The DC12 MaveriK introduces a lightweight 39.5 mm titanium case and an in-house movement with three new patents, including a dual balance system for stability. A manual wind with the “Magic Crown” mechanism prioritizes ergonomics and user experience. Decorative dial work keeps legibility high while showcasing depth and finishing. Not limited in number, it targets collectors who want cutting-edge technical solutions in an elegant package north of $100,000.
Favre Leuba
Favre Leuba Unveils the Chief Skeleton
The Chief Skeleton is Favre Leuba’s first fully skeletonized watch, housed in a 40 mm cushion case and offered in seven variants. Open-worked architecture exposes calibers FLS01 and FLS02 with a 41-hour power reserve, while luminous markers glow blue for nighttime visibility. Water resistance of 100 meters and multiple strap options expand versatility. Pricing starts at $4,500 in steel and $4,600 in DLC.
Glashütte Original
Glashuette Original PanoMatic Lunar Anniversary Edition
To mark 180 years of watchmaking in Glashütte, this platinum PanoMaticLunar pairs an aventurine dial with the brand’s asymmetrical display, Panorama Date, and moon phase. The new automatic Caliber 92-14 offers a 100-hour power reserve behind meticulous finishing. Limited to 180 pieces, the shimmering dial evokes the night sky’s depth and texture. A blue Louisiana alligator strap and 40 mm case underline restrained luxury at $39,500.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Ushers in the Dawn with the Sunrise Tentagraph SLGC006
Inspired by dawn over Mount Iwate, the Sunrise Tentagraph SLGC006 features a 43.2 mm High-Intensity Titanium case and a ceramic bezel. The Caliber 9SC5 delivers a 72-hour power reserve and high accuracy in a robust, 100 m water-resistant package. Pink-gold accents and a textured dial capture the morning light’s warmth. Limited to 300 pieces and priced at $22,600, it debuts in October 2025.
Hamilton
Introducing: In Game and On the Wrist, The Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7”
Hamilton’s 38 mm Khaki Field “Black Ops 7” ties into the game’s release with a textured black dial, sapphire crystal, and 100 m water resistance. The automatic H-10 movement offers an 80-hour power reserve for extended wear. Limited to 5,000 pieces, it arrives on a khaki green NATO strap to reinforce its tool-watch credentials. Priced at CHF 795 or EUR 925, it bridges gaming culture and field-watch tradition.
ID Geneve
Introducing: The ID Geneve Circular C SDG Limited Edition
ID Geneve partners with the United Nations on a 17-piece limited edition championing the Sustainable Development Goals. Recycled stainless steel and regenerative, self-healing carbon emphasize material innovation with purpose. A 41 mm case and ETA automatic movement keep the package practical, while 10% of sales go to SDG initiatives. Priced at $10,500, it merges sustainability, design, and philanthropy.
Nodus
Introducing: The Nodus Sector II Field Titanium Goes ‘Tropical’
The Sector II Field Titanium ‘Tropical’ leans into rugged utility with a 38 mm Cerakote-coated titanium case and 100 m water resistance. A regulated Seiko TMI NH-38 movement provides a 41-hour power reserve at 21,600 vph. The brown “tropical” sector dial and BGW9 Grade A lume enhance legibility and character. Limited to 75 pieces at $550, it’s a compact, tough field watch with distinctive style.
Panerai
Panerai Unveils the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
Panerai’s Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 reinterprets a military classic with a 44 mm steel DLC case and the historic “Marina Militare” dial signature. Super-LumiNova treatment creates a three-dimensional, “non matching” effect that nods to early models. Inside, the P.6000 caliber delivers three days of power reserve. Priced at $8,800, it anchors an exhibition celebrating Panerai’s evolution from military supplier to luxury brand.
Roger Dubuis
Hands-On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights of the Round Table ‘The Enchanter Merlin’ Watch
Limited to 28 pieces, this 45 mm statement piece stages twelve unique gold knights around a highly dimensional dial. Materials such as ruthenium and diamonds heighten the watch’s theatrical contrast and depth. The Poinçon de Genève-certified RD821 automatic movement underscores haute horlogerie standards. At $398,500, it’s a showcase of craftsmanship and storytelling at the pinnacle of design.
Sinn
Sinn Spezialuhren 556 Collection
Sinn expands the 556 range with four guilloché pastel dials—Sand, Ice Blue, Mauve, and Sage—balancing practicality and refinement. The 38.5 mm steel cases are rated to 200 m and house the Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour reserve. Each colorway is limited to 300 pieces. Pricing runs from €1,450 on canvas-Alcantara up to €1,800 on a micro-adjust steel bracelet.
Timex
Timex’s Affordable Pilot’s Watch Goes Sky-High with a Pair of Midcentury Throwbacks
Timex x Pan Am Waterbury Ace arrives as a chronograph ($269, quartz) and an automatic ($349) inspired by midcentury aviation and Pan Am iconography. The automatic features an exhibition caseback and leather strap with airplane icon, while both use signature coloring and a plane silhouette at 12 o’clock. Pre-orders are open for the vintage-styled duo. It’s a nostalgic, attainable nod to the golden age of flight.
Ulysse Nardin
New Release: Ulysse Nardin Blast [Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green] Watch
This 10-piece limited edition elevates silicon marquetry with 103 green slivers composing a dial that evokes printed circuit boards. The 45 mm 18k white-gold case, bowl-shaped sapphire, and hand-wound UN-176 movement showcase the brand’s art-meets-tech ethos, including a flying tourbillon and seven-day reserve. It’s a vivid, technical tribute to silicon’s role in horology and technology. Priced at $155,000 USD, it’s both futuristic and artisanal.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Celadon
Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix
Celadon’s Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix centers an exquisite blue and white handmade dial that evokes traditional Delft Blue pottery. The jump-hour display removes hands from the dial’s center, leaving an unobstructed view of two phoenixes symbolizing imperial elegance. A manually wound movement and a finely finished steel case complement the artisanal enamel work. Starting at $34,900, it blends high craft with distinctive horology.
Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite
The Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite pairs a 44 mm case made from solid meteorite with a kinetic display of all eight planets and an asteroid belt composed of Martian meteorite fragments. Aventurine glass and hand-painted planets create a dazzling, maximalist presentation. The CKM-01 movement delivers a 60-hour power reserve and displays the solar system in motion. Around $725,000, it merges astronomical spectacle with top-tier craftsmanship.
Crafter Blue
Actually Affordable: Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II Dive Watch
The Mechanic Ocean Mark II brings a 41 mm steel case, 300 m water resistance, and the reliable Miyota 9015 to an approachable price point. Two luminous dial options, a precise unidirectional bezel, and blocky lugs give it strong tool-watch character. A robust rubber strap and thoughtful finishing elevate daily wear. At $449, it’s a compelling value in the affordable dive segment.
G-Shock
Hands-On: Casio G-Shock MR-G MRGB2000RG3A Watch
This MR-G blends traditional Japanese craft with G-Shock ruggedness, featuring a large titanium case, Sallaz-polished facets, and a recrystallized titanium bezel. The kurogane-iro dial and layered textures nod to samurai armor while delivering legibility and depth. Module 5625 adds solar charging, Bluetooth connectivity, and multi-time-zone capability with impressive accuracy. Priced at $3,800 USD, it’s a premium, comfort-forward take on the MR-G ethos.
L. Leroy
L. Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps
Osmior Bal du Temps unites a minute repeater with a flying tourbillon to demonstrate 240 years of L. Leroy savoir-faire. A single blue hand indicates time on a refined silver-toned dial, emphasizing purity and balance. Calibre L601SQ features a variable-inertia balance and high-end finishing for precision and beauty. Offered in platinum, 18k 5N red gold, or Grade 5 titanium, it epitomizes modern Haute Horlogerie.
Panerai
Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
A black DLC-coated steel case, caramel accents, and a single-layer dial channel Panerai’s military roots. The 44 mm cushion profile and crown-guard bridge remain iconic, while the hand-wound P.6000 offers a three-day reserve. Its minimalist layout heightens legibility and period charm. Retailing at £7,200, it deftly mixes tradition with modern execution for dedicated Paneristi.
Pequignet
Pequignet Royale Paris Coral Dial
Pequignet showcases French Haute Horlogerie with a textured coral dial featuring power reserve and small seconds. The 39.5 mm steel case frames the in-house Calibre Royal, boasting a remarkable 96-hour power reserve. Polished hands filled with blue Super-LumiNova elevate legibility and visual flair. Paired with a black Cordura strap, it underscores French watchmaking’s rising profile.
Sherpa Watches
Sherpa Ultradive Tuxedo
Ultradive Tuxedo revives the compressor-case concept for robust water resistance and vintage charm. The alternating black-and-silver “tuxedo” dial balances elegance with high contrast for easy reading. A 40 mm steel case meets ISO 6425 standards, and the Mantramatic MM01 (based on SW200-1) runs at 28,800 vph with a 38-hour reserve. On a vulcanized rubber strap, it’s priced at €6,500 for versatile, refined utility.
Timex Atelier
Hands-On Debut: Swiss-Made Timex Atelier Marine M1a Watch
The Marine M1a introduces a Swiss-made 41 mm diver with 200 m resistance, available on steel bracelet or black rubber. A black enamel dial and the Catena SA 100 automatic (36-hour reserve) anchor the package. Priced competitively to attract newer collectors, it nods to icons like the Submariner while staking Timex Atelier’s value proposition. Quick-change ergonomics add daily-wear flexibility.
Tudor
Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna — Nailing It On The First Try?
Tudor adds a moonphase to the understated 1926 line, pairing a polished 39 mm case with a lunar display at six. The chronometer-grade automatic movement underlines precision, while a Jay Chou collaboration brings a striking black-on-gold dial. Some critique centers on moonphase visibility and conservative design choices. Aimed at the Asian market around Mid-Autumn Festival, it raises questions about Tudor’s next creative steps.
Urwerk
Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion
UR-150 Blue Scorpion channels its namesake with a vivid blue palette, satellite hour display, and retrograde minute system. The 42.5 mm case forgoes a bezel to emphasize futuristic lines and finishing. Calibre UR-50.01 powers a cam-and-rack retrograde with a 43-hour reserve and rich surface treatments. Limited to 50 pieces at CHF 90,000, it’s design-forward, mechanically inventive, and unmistakably Urwerk.
Versace
Watch Review: Versace V-Contempo GMT
The square V-Contempo GMT combines a gunmetal-toned steel case with a bold burgundy dial and luminous hands. Its Swiss Landeron 24 automatic GMT is simple, reliable, and cost-effective. While an oversized date window divides opinion, overall comfort and personality are strong. At $2,150 USD, it marries fashion-first aesthetics with practical travel functionality.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2
A head-to-head compares two vintage-inspired divers: Lorier Neptune at $599 and Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 at €840.95. One camp favors Lorier’s microbrand charm and acrylic crystal for pure retro feel, while the other praises Baltic’s bolder design and updated details at a higher price. The debate underscores how personal preference shapes value in this category. Readers are invited to vote on their pick.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
No Reserve - 2025 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase 43MM Meteorite Dial Steel Bracelet (304.30.43.52.01.001)
Auction Report: Out of This World Deal on an Omega Moonphase
One lucky bidder just scored the horological equivalent of a lunar touchdown. At a no-reserve auction Wednesday night on Grailzee, a brand-new Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.30.43.52.01.001) sold for just $12,900—a stunning steal compared to its $19,300 retail price. That’s nearly 33% off for a watch that just hit the market this summer, with full papers dated July 1st, 2025.
The winning buyer walked away with more than just a bargain. The watch was in pristine, unworn condition (save for a resizing), and included boxes (inner and outer), all cards (Pictogram and Master Chronometer), removed links, and a full set of paperwork. Fitted for up to an 8-inch wrist, it’s ready to wear right out of the box—or flip at a tidy profit.
What makes this piece even more special? The meteorite dial, which gives each watch a one-of-a-kind textured pattern, set beneath luminous hands and crisp applied indices. The black ceramic tachymeter bezel, triple-register chronograph, and 43mm stainless steel case make it both functional and formidable. Oh, and there’s a moonphase complication tucked into that subdial at 6 o’clock—because why not?
This wasn’t just a win. It was a celestial bargain. See it Now on Grailzee >