BuyingTime Daily - October 17, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 17, 2025
London is about to get a shot of color as Elliot Brown brings its Chromatic Collection to WatchPro Salon 2025. The brand, known for its rugged, no-nonsense durability, is going playful this time with wave-patterned dials in shades of cotton candy and beachside orange. Meanwhile, Panerai takes a deep dive into its own past with “Depths of Time,” an exhibition now open in New York that traces its journey from Italian naval supplier to global luxury player. It’s equal parts history lesson and brand flex before the show heads south to Miami next month.
In Florida, Weston Jewelers is dreaming even bigger — literally — with plans for a five-story flagship in downtown Fort Lauderdale, anchored by Rolex and topped with a rooftop restaurant. The space aims to be a temple to Swiss timekeeping wrapped in green glass and gold-standard aspiration. Across the Atlantic, LVMH’s strong luxury earnings lit a fire under Swatch Group, whose shares surged 11% Thursday on hopes that Chinese consumers might finally be ready to spend again.
Ligure brings art to the wrist with its Karl Schmid diver, blending creative expression with 200 meters of water resistance, while Chrono24 is reminding everyone that buying pre-owned Rolex is still the shortcut to instant gratification — if you know what you’re doing. In auction circles, all eyes turn to Monaco this weekend as F.P. Journe, Patek Philippe, and a gold-clad Rolex 6062 take center stage at Monaco Legend’s fall sale. Expect fireworks and some spirited late-night bidding.
Material matters were also in the spotlight: Fratello debated steel versus gold versus titanium, and Hublot celebrated its in-house UNICO chronograph — a movement that’s as over-engineered as it is over-styled, and proud of it. The week’s product drops ran the gamut, from Aera’s minimalist C-1 Chrono to Breguet’s sparkling Reine de Naples duo for its 250th anniversary, and De Bethune’s yellow-titanium marvel that looks like it came from another planet.
On the collector front, Formex, Isotope, Nomos, Norqain, Serica, Ulysse Nardin, and Unimatic all had something new to show, proving once again that creativity in 2025 is spread evenly from Switzerland to the microbrand frontier. And in our own auction spotlight, a near-mint Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar (Q1308470)— complete with papers dated October 2024 — headlines Grailzee’s Saturday night sale, a reminder that elegance and engineering can still fit into 39 millimeters of steel.
As for prices, Rolex hasn’t blinked — no hikes despite tariffs and gold volatility — because when you already own the mountain, you don’t need to climb it.
News Time
Elliot Brown’s colorful chromatics will shine at WatchPro Salon 2025
Elliot Brown will showcase its Chromatic Collection at WatchPro Salon 2025 in London, adding bold, summer-ready colorways to the Bloxworth Heritage Diver, Holton Professional, and Beachmaster lines. The pieces feature wave‑textured dials, 200 m water resistance, a triple‑sealed screw‑down crown, and Swiss Ronda 713 quartz movements. Limited dial colors channel British summertime, from candy floss pink to beach‑ready orange. Founded in 2013, the brand focuses on durable, affordable watches for outdoor lifestyles and appears alongside 30+ makers on October 31 and November 1.
Panerai exhibition runs in New York before moving to Miami
Panerai’s flagship in New York is hosting “Depths of Time” through November 9, 2025, before the exhibit moves to Miami. The immersive showcase traces Panerai’s journey from an 1860 supplier of naval instruments for the Royal Italian Navy to a modern luxury watchmaker. Visitors can see historic instruments, technical drawings, archival photos, and rare prototypes that reveal the brand’s evolution. CEO Emmanuel Perrin frames the show as a rare, behind‑the‑curtain view of Panerai’s path from secrecy to global renown.
Weston Jewelers to open America’s biggest multibrand store
Weston Jewelers plans a five‑story, 40,707‑square‑foot flagship in Downtown Fort Lauderdale by the end of 2027, anchored by Rolex. Three floors are dedicated to retail, complemented by a fine dining restaurant on the rooftop. A defining feature will be a signature Rolex green glass wall, with curated spaces for Swiss watches and designer jewelry. The family‑owned retailer aims to create a luxurious destination for longtime clients and new visitors alike.
Why LVMH optimism triggered an 11% jump in Swatch Group shares
LVMH’s positive results and signs of luxury demand recovery in China catalyzed an 11% surge in Swatch Group shares, adding to a six‑month climb of over 23%. Despite a tough first half of 2025 with lower sales and margins, Swatch maintained manufacturing capacity and is seeing inventory normalizing in China. Management’s decision to retain skilled personnel signals a long‑term recovery stance. Improving Chinese consumer spending could lift factory utilization and margins as conditions stabilize.
Feature Time
A Deep Dive In Art: Hands-On with the Ligure Karl Schmid
Ligure’s Karl Schmid edition fuses wearable art with true diver capability, drawing its dial from Schmid’s 1988 “Spirituelles Werk.” The 41 mm Tartaruga case, blue ceramic bezel, and engraved caseback frame vibrant triangular motifs and subtle color fades. Despite the artistry, it keeps 200 m water resistance and luminous hands, and it’s limited to 88 pieces. The watch ships with a metal bracelet and two‑tone silicone strap for versatile wear.
Auctions: A Live Preview Of This Weekend’s Fall 2025 Monaco Legend Auction
This Monaco Legend Auction spans heavy‑hitters from F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe, with estimates reaching into the multi‑million‑euro range. Two yellow gold Patek 1518s and a rare yellow gold Rolex ref. 6062 headline the top tier, while mid‑budget and entry picks keep the sale broad and accessible. The event runs October 18–19 and promises a notable moment for collectors across price bands. Expect both trophy watches and sharp value plays under one roof.
Buying a Used Rolex Watch – What You Need to Know
Buying pre‑owned Rolex can mean instant availability, global selection, and strong value retention. Pricing varies widely, from around $1,000 for some vintage pieces to $7,000–$50,000 for many core models, with premiums for rarities. Authenticity, condition, and complete sets remain key, ideally backed by documentation. Reputable marketplaces offer secure transactions and guarantees to help buyers navigate with confidence.
CORDER’S COLUMN: Why hasn’t Rolex hiked prices?
Despite soaring gold prices and elevated tariffs, Rolex has held retail prices steady since May 2025. Analysts suggest the brand may be betting on tariff normalization, drawing on gold reserves bought at lower cost, and leveraging effective hedging. With demand still exceeding supply, Rolex appears to favor long‑term stability over short‑term price moves. The strategy underscores confidence in managing volatility without disrupting the market.
Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials
This discussion breaks down the pros and cons of steel, gold, titanium, ceramics, and more through real‑world wear. Steel stands out for durability, versatility, and value, while gold offers prestige and warmth, and titanium brings lightness and comfort. Ceramics and exotic options add scratch resistance and distinctive aesthetics. The hosts’ wrist checks illustrate how material choices shape the experience on the wrist.
The Story Of Hublot’s In-House UNICO Automatic Chronograph Watch Movement
Born from a push toward vertical integration, Hublot’s UNICO advances chronograph architecture with a hybrid clutch system to boost precision and reduce drag. Modern materials like silicon and ceramic support durability and performance while keeping the mechanism visually engaging through open dials. The Big Bang era under Jean‑Claude Biver set the stage for UNICO’s identity as an innovative, contemporary engine. It stands as a flagship expression of Hublot’s technical and design ethos.
The Latest Time
Aera
Introducing: The Aera C-1 Chrono
Aera’s C-1 Chrono blends minimalist design with classic chronograph cues in a 42 mm 904L stainless steel case. A matte black dial, white sub‑dials, and a red central hand strike a clean, legible balance. It runs the Sellita SW510 BH Élaboré Grade with a 56‑hour power reserve and 100 m water resistance. Each of the 300 numbered pieces ships with calfskin and FKM rubber straps in a British‑made leather pouch.
Breguet
Introducing: The New Breguet Reine de Naples 9935 & 8925 for the 250th Anniversary
Marking its 250th anniversary, Breguet unveils two jeweled Reine de Naples models that emphasize regal aesthetics and fine craftsmanship. The 9935 adds a crescent‑style moon phase within a 28.5 × 36.5 mm gold case, while the smaller 8925 offers a refined, time‑only execution. Diamond‑set cases and bracelets underscore the maison’s haute joaillerie savoir‑faire. Both are powered by sophisticated mechanical movements that marry elegance with performance.
De Bethune
De Bethune fires up DB28 lineup with yellow titanium model
De Bethune introduces the DB28xs Yellow Tones, a 39 mm Grade 5 titanium watch treated by thermal oxidation for its vivid hue. Microlight engraving and mirror polishing create dramatic plays of light across the compact case. A hand‑wound calibre with a titanium balance, De Bethune hairspring, and six‑day power reserve anchors the technical side. Patented triple shock protection and floating lugs enhance resilience and comfort.
Formex
First Look: The New Formex Essence 41mm Automatic COSC in Steel
Formex expands the Essence line with a 41 mm steel model featuring an integrated titanium container and multiple dial choices. The COSC‑certified SW200‑1 powers the watch with 41 hours of reserve, coupled to Formex’s patented Case Suspension System. A micro‑adjust butterfly‑clasp bracelet and quick‑release strap options add everyday versatility. Pre‑orders begin Oct 16 with deliveries expected mid‑November.
Isotope Watches
Introducing: The Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana — A Mirror-Polished Optical Illusion
Limited to 100 pieces, the Flyway Fata Morgana showcases a mirror‑polished titanium dial inspired by the shimmering “Fata Morgana” mirage. At 36 mm, it offers a Clous de Paris bezel and the choice of Landeron 24 (40‑hour) or La Joux‑Perret G101 (68‑hour) Swiss movements. The design emphasizes shifting light and texture while maintaining 100 m water resistance. It’s a distinctive, art‑driven take on a compact modern daily watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models
Jaeger‑LeCoultre presents two halo pieces: the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 and Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. The 945 features a domed Grand Feu enamel sky chart with sidereal time, plus minute repeater and a rotating tourbillon. The 948 integrates a rotating globe, layered dial of the Northern Hemisphere, and a worldtimer with tourbillon. Produced in very small numbers, both marry complex mechanics with museum‑grade finishing.
Nomos
First Look: The Square Nomos Tetra Origins Series Goes For Earthy Tones
The Tetra Origins Series introduces four earthy colorways—Ochra, Terra, Salvia, and Basalt—on fine‑grained dials. A slim 29.5 mm square case at 6.5 mm thick keeps proportions elegant and wearable. Inside is the in‑house DUW 4001 hand‑wound calibre with Nomos Swing System and 43‑hour power reserve. Vegan leather straps and minimalist layouts complete this permanent addition to the line.
Norqain
Introducing: The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange
Norqain revives its skeletonized flyback chronograph with a high‑visibility orange theme. The 42 mm steel case houses the exclusive 8k automatic column‑wheel calibre, COSC‑certified with a 62‑hour reserve. Water resistance is 100 m, and buyers can choose an integrated steel bracelet or orange rubber strap. It’s a bold, performance‑driven update to the Independence Skeleton platform.
Serica
Introducing: Serica Extends The Parade With Two Linen-Inspired Models
Serica expands the Parade with the 1174 “Linen” in Slate blue and Tobacco green, each with a textured, cross‑weave‑inspired dial. The compact 35 × 41 × 8.2 mm case keeps purity of form and 100 m water resistance. A Swiss Soprod M100 automatic movement powers hours and minutes with a 42‑hour reserve. Both versions come on alligator‑embossed calf straps at $1,790.
Ulysse Nardin
First Look: Old Meets New On Board the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel
The Freak S Enamel fuses traditional champlevé artistry with modern silicon technology on vibrant enamel discs. Its signature carousel movement displays time via the rotating mechanism, set in a 45 mm titanium case. Twin inclined silicon balances and the Grinder winding system deliver innovation and a 72‑hour reserve. Limited to 50 pieces per color, it underscores the Freak’s avant‑garde identity.
Unimatic
Introducing: Unimatic Gives Its Modello Due A Second Time Zone With The U2-GMT
Unimatic’s Modello Due U2‑GMT adds an independently adjustable GMT hand to the 38 mm platform, limited to 300 pieces. The Seiko NH34A automatic GMT powers a clean, highly legible dial with Super‑LumiNova on the GMT hand. Rated to 300 m, the watch pairs tool‑watch capability with restrained design. A time zone conversion chart on the caseback is a quirky functional touch.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Dennison
Hands-On: The Dennison Dual Time Capsule Collection II
Dennison’s Dual Time Capsule Collection II reimagines the classic dual‑time format with a clean stainless steel case and vibrant, abstract‑inspired dial options. A newly introduced “bark” mesh bracelet adds period charm while keeping the look contemporary. The series is limited, priced under $1,000, and emphasizes straightforward functionality with modern wearability. Additional iterations, including a gold‑plated version, are slated for the future.
Krayon
Hands-On: Krayon’s Anyday Watch Is Both Novel And Useful
The Krayon Anyday introduces a practical calendar display that elevates day‑to‑day utility without cluttering the dial. Housed in a polished 39 mm white gold case on a blue‑grained calfskin strap, it remains elegant and refined. A crescent indicator shows both date and day of the week across the month using layered sapphire, aluminum, and titanium discs for clarity. Powered by the in‑house Caliber C032 with a 72‑hour reserve, the movement’s architecture references the sine wave of daylight in Neuchâtel.
Seiko
The New Seiko Rotocall Makes Casio Look a Little Old-Fashioned
Seiko’s Rotocall is positioned as a fresh, forward‑leaning take that may make rival offerings feel dated. The review highlights how its design and functionality push the line in a more modern direction. Features and execution are framed as a step‑change for the segment, with an emphasis on everyday usability. It signals a competitive statement within the brand’s broader tool‑watch landscape.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the Patek Philippe 5146G-010 Annual Calendar, Slate-Grey Serenity in White Gold- was bid to $22,900 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39MM Black Dial Leather Strap (Q1308470)
Auction Report: Elegance in Miniature — The 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar (Q1308470)
As the gavel is poised to fall at 8:44 pm on Saturday, October 18, 2025, this auction presents a compelling opportunity to acquire one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most refined complications in its most wearable form. The lot is described by the seller as “like new,” and notably includes both inner and outer boxes, additional items, and full papers dated October 16, 2024 — essentially making this a nearly pristine, full-set offering.
The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, reference Q1308470, is a technical marvel translated into a dress-watch silhouette. Its 39 mm stainless steel case manages to contain the perpetual calendar—with day, date, month, year, leap years—as well as a moonphase, yet remains remarkably svelte and elegant. The black dial, sun-brushed and classically restrained, presents all of the calendar indicators in a legible and balanced layout. On leather (typically black alligator), this timepiece is nothing short of ideal under a cuff or in formal settings.
Under the hood, the Q1308470 is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house caliber 868 (or 868/1 in some references), an automatic movement engineered for this ultra-thin configuration. It provides the full suite of perpetual functionality, though the power reserve is modest by modern standards—around 38 hours is frequently cited in dealer specs. Some sources also list water resistance of 30 m (or similar), a reminder that this is very much a dress piece rather than a sports utility watch.
From a historical and market perspective, the Q1308470 occupies a special niche. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long been lauded for delivering significant complication at more accessible price points than some of its haute horlogerie peers. In its steel configuration, the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual was seen by many as a paradigm change: a fully featured perpetual calendar in a relatively modest dress package. While the brand’s gold variants command much higher premiums, the steel reference has proved popular among collectors who want serious mechanical substance in a relatively wearable case.
Market comparators show that examples of the Q1308470 have traded on platforms like Chrono24 and WatchCharts in a range often between USD 13,000 and USD 18,000, depending on condition, completeness, service history, and geographic source. One Chrono24 listing positions this same reference in “new” condition for about USD 13,884. WatchCharts suggests a “fair price” zone in the low to mid-teens, with occasional higher peaks when full sets or low-population inventory arises. On the retail side, some dealers and listings price this model well above that range (e.g. AuthenticWatches lists ~$24,995), which may reflect markup, low availability, or aspirational pricing rather than realized sale outcomes. Other retailer sources list prices closer to $24,000 for new/full set condition.
Given that this particular lot includes recent papers (October 2024) and appears to have been lightly used (if at all), it stands among the more desirable specimens. The thorough documentation and original packaging materially enhance its appeal to serious buyers or collectors who prize completeness. Still, achieving the upper echelon of market value will depend on condition down to the dial, lugs, strap, movement state, and whether the watch has been serviced or modified.
With that in mind, a conservative but realistic estimate for strong bidders might land in the USD 14,000 to USD 17,000 bracket, with upward flexibility should two determined collectors compete. If the watch is truly “like new,” unpolished, and exhibits exemplary cosmetics and mechanical condition, it could push toward the higher end of that band or slightly beyond. In contrast, if wear, service ambiguity, or minor cosmetic issues emerge under scrutiny, downward adjustments would be prudent. See it Now on Grailzee >
Current bid: $8,000.