BuyingTime Daily - October 16, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 16, 2025
It’s been an interesting day in the watch world, starting with LVMH’s watch division, which remains as opaque as ever. While TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith delivered some visible wins this year—Formula 1 partnerships, splashy anniversaries—the numbers remain fuzzy thanks to LVMH’s habit of bundling watches with jewelry. Revenue ticked up 1% in Q3 after a small dip in H1, but it’s anyone’s guess what’s really driving that. China’s rebound helps, but investors still want to see proof that the watch brands are more than just glossy billboards for the mothership.
Meanwhile, there’s new blood in U.S. watch distribution. CHP Caliber has launched as a boutique-style consultancy that’s trying to bring back the small-shop feel for entry-level luxury. Think Delma, Tsar Bomba, and Exaequo at approachable prices, placed in a handful of well-chosen retailers. It’s a refreshingly analog approach in an era when everyone’s chasing e-commerce scale—human connection as a business model.
JCK and Luxury are already looking ahead to 2026 with their “Timepieces at Luxury” showcase in Las Vegas. Expect the usual suspects—Accutron, Citizen, Movado, Shinola—in a dedicated horology space that promises more depth and less noise. With registration opening in January, it’s the first real signal that watch trade events are ready to regroup post-tariff chaos.
Then there’s the inevitable bit of political theater: “GetTrumpWatches” customers are revolting online, leaving furious reviews about delayed deliveries and refund limbo on watches priced between $499 and $2,999. A 2.8-star Trustpilot rating and timing the sales push during a government shutdown—chef’s kiss. Somewhere, a Timex exec is grinning.
On the creative side, Richard Mille is keeping things stripped down—focusing on rugged simplicity rather than sci-fi maximalism—and the new “Best Watches Under $500” list proves you don’t need a mortgage to wear something respectable. The Seiko SSK003, Casio EFK100, and Tissot PRX all make the cut, joined by workhorses from Citizen, Orient, and Timex that punch well above their weight.
In fresh releases, Angelus teams with Massena LAB for a yellow-gold telemeter chronograph straight out of 1952, Arnold & Son charts its own Longitude, Blancpain polishes its Villeret “Golden Hour,” and Urwerk shocks everyone by putting hands—yes, real central hands—on a watch again. Chopard, Czapek, and Monta all add their own refined updates to the mix, while Casio goes full Back to the Future with a calculator-watch reissue that would make Marty McFly proud.
And for those who prefer their horology with GPS and flashlight, Garmin’s Instinct Crossover AMOLED proves that not every smartwatch has to look like a fitness tracker. It’s the tool watch for people who actually use their tools.
Finally, in the auction lane, tonight’s headliner is the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5146G-010—the grey-dial, white-gold classic that keeps the calendar faithful swooning. It’s sitting at $22,000 on Grailzee with papers but no box, and the hammer falls at 9:58 p.m. ET. Expect it to flirt with the $30K mark before the dust settles. See it now, bid like a grown-up, and let the calendar remind you what day your watch addiction peaked. - Michael Wolf
News Time
What’s happening at LVMH’s watch division?
LVMH’s watch division, which includes TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, is hard to evaluate because results are bundled with the larger, more profitable jewelry segment. In H1 2025, Watches and Jewelry revenue fell 1% to €5.1 billion, then ticked up 1% year-over-year in Q3 to €7.1 billion. High-profile moments like TAG Heuer’s new Formula 1 partnership and brand anniversaries helped visibility, but limited brand-level financial disclosure clouds the real performance picture. Despite signs of recovery in global luxury, particularly China, skepticism remains about the underlying watch results.
A new name in watch distribution is bringing boutique energy to the US market
CHP Caliber has launched in the United States as an independent consultancy focused on entry-level luxury watches priced between $500 and $2,500. Partnering initially with smaller retailers, it aims to revive a boutique, community feel while promoting brands like Delma, Tsar Bomba, and Exaequo. The company plans to select 10 to 15 Northeast retailers to host curated collections and is pursuing additional partnerships. The strategy centers on intimate brand–retailer relationships that build long-term customer connections.
JCK and Luxury to launch Timepieces At Luxury for 2026
JCK and Luxury will debut “Timepieces at Luxury” in 2026 at The Venetian in Las Vegas, running May 27 to June 1. The dedicated horology area will showcase established brands such as Accutron, Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Frederique Constant, Movado, and Shinola in a focused setting for new product and technology discovery. The space opens to Luxury retailers on May 27–28, then to all JCK attendees May 29–June 1. Registration is slated to begin in January 2026.
Furious MAGA Customers Say They Got ‘Scammed’ by Trump Watches
Customers who purchased Donald Trump watches from GetTrumpWatches report widespread dissatisfaction, with numerous Trustpilot reviews alleging delays, missing refunds, and poor service. Prices ranging from $499 to $2,999 have heightened frustration as some buyers say they waited months without resolution. The company’s overall 2.8-star rating underscores persistent complaints, despite a handful of positive experiences. The backlash intensified as Trump promoted the watches during a government shutdown, further fueling criticism.
Feature Time
Richard Mille Is Keeping It Simple & Tough: A Closer Look
Richard Mille is leaning into a minimalist and robust design philosophy centered on simplicity and durability. The brand blends advanced materials with cutting-edge engineering to craft timepieces that are both striking and exceptionally resilient. This approach aims to satisfy enthusiasts who value form and function in equal measure. The result keeps Richard Mille at the forefront of luxury watchmaking while aligning with modern expectations for wearability and strength.
The 9 Best Watches Under $500
This feature proves you do not need to overspend to get a stylish, well-made watch. Highlights include the Seiko SSK003 for budget-friendly GMT capability, the Casio EFK100 for classic looks at a value, and the retro-modern Tissot PRX. Others span the rugged Marathon GPQ-D, elegant Baltic HMS 003, Citizen’s Eco-Drive Brycen Super Titanium, and the refined Orient Bambino Version 8. The G‑Shock DW‑6900 brings proven toughness, while the Timex Marlin Chronograph Tachymeter adds vintage Americana charm with modern practicality.
The Latest Time
Angelus
Introducing: The Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold
A 10-piece limited edition, this mid-century styled chronograph features an 18k yellow gold case and a black domed dial with a 20km telemeter. It runs a hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement, caliber A5000 by La Joux-Perret, delivering 42 hours of power reserve. The 37mm case is complemented by a black Saffiano calfskin strap and meticulous finishing throughout. Pricing is available upon request, with the classic version previously at CHF 32,300.
Arnold & Son
First Look: The New Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium 5°W Edition
Limited to 38 pieces, this 42.5mm grade 5 titanium watch adds an 18k red gold notched ring and a North Atlantic–inspired palette. The Lizard Point Grey dial features a power reserve and small seconds, with golden indices and Super-LumiNova. Water-resistant to 100 meters, it houses the COSC-certified A&S6302 automatic movement with a 60-hour reserve and refined decorations visible through the display back. Priced at CHF 25,900.
Blancpain
Introducing: Blancpain Expands The Villeret Collection With Three New ‘Golden Hour’ Iterations
Blancpain updates the Villeret line with the Ultraplate and two Quantième models, delivering slimmer leaf hands, a new “JB” symbol at 12, and refined moonphase aesthetics. Practical upgrades include quick-change leather straps and improved ergonomics. Offered in 40mm and 33.2mm sizes in steel or red gold, the collection blends classicism with thoughtful modern touches. The Ultraplate begins at $13,100, with additional pricing depending on configuration.
First Look: Blancpain Updates its Villeret Collection with the 2025 Golden Hour Series Read More >
Blancpain Villeret New Models 2025 Read More >
Casio
Casio Time Travels Back to the ‘80s for One of Its Best Retro Watches Yet
The Back to the Future x Casio Vintage CA-500WEBF-1A channels the 1985 film’s calculator watch worn by Marty McFly. It keeps the digital display and full keypad while upgrading to a modern quartz movement. DeLorean-inspired design cues include a time-circuit–styled keyboard and a flux capacitor caseback engraving. Packaged in VHS-inspired packaging, it’s expected to retail around £115 (about $154).
A Classic 1980s Seiko Digital Watch Unexpectedly Returns to Take Casio to School
Seiko revives its Rotocall digital watch with the hallmark bidirectional bezel for mode switching and a choice of steel bracelet or NATO strap. The design stays true to the 1980s original while improving water resistance and overall durability. Three colorways nod to the historic palette, and the model joins the permanent catalog. Pricing is around $643 with availability beginning next month.
Chopard
Introducing: Two New Versions of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry
Two ultra-limited editions, in 18k ethical yellow or white gold, feature honeycomb straw marquetry dials and the L.U.C 98 calibre with an eight-day power reserve. The 40mm cases blend satin-brushed and polished finishes, while the jumping hour complication remains a centerpiece. Hand-crafted straw dial work matches each precious metal variant in tone and character. Limited to eight pieces per version, they are boutique exclusives priced at EUR 73,400.
Czapek & Cie
Introducing: The new Czapek Antarctique Plique-a-Jour Enamel
Celebrating a decade since the brand’s 2015 rebirth, Czapek unveils a luminous plique-à-jour enamel dial over a skeletonized in-house calibre SXH7. The stainless steel case offers 120 meters of water resistance and an integrated bracelet with “Easy Release” for rapid strap swaps. Limited to just 10 pieces, the watch embodies artisanal dial work paired with contemporary mechanics. Priced at CHF 61,200 before taxes.
Monta
Hands-On Debut: Monta Triumph V2 Watch
Monta’s modernized field watch iterates on classic lines with a 40mm steel case, improved legibility, and 200 meters of water resistance. A black matte dial, Caliber M-22 automatic movement, and a three-link bracelet with an adjustable clasp highlight a balanced tool-watch spec. The silhouette nods to icons like the Explorer while remaining distinctly Monta. At $1,850, it’s the brand’s most affordable model.
Petermann Bedat
First Look: The new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 Three-Hand Watch
A limited run of 200 pieces over four years, the Reference 1825 pairs a 38mm rose gold case with a translucent green enamel sector dial. The in-house, hand-wound calibre 233 features Geneva stripes and painstaking polishing, visible through the caseback. A small seconds at 6 o’clock and an alligator strap complete the refined presentation. List price is CHF 75,000, excluding taxes.
TAG Heuer
New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time: Two Time Zones Is Only Half The Story
A 44mm grade 2 titanium case anchors this dual-time Carrera, sporting a split-color ceramic bezel made from a single piece. The Caliber TH20-02 automatic chronograph GMT drives a skeletonized dial with a fourth 24-hour hand. A teal rubber strap underscores the modern, athletic aesthetic. Priced at $9,300 USD, it’s a bold addition to the Extreme Sport lineup.
Urwerk
Introducing: An Urwerk with Central Hands...? Meet the new UR-10 Spacemeter
Urwerk departs from its signature satellite indications with centrally mounted hands on a round dial, yet preserves brand DNA through astronomical measurement sub-dials. The watch tracks Earth’s daily rotation and solar orbit, with a caseback showing a 24-hour scale and a dual-flow turbine system. Sandblasted titanium construction and limited production underscore its exclusivity. Retail is CHF 70,000, with only 25 pieces produced per year.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Hands-On: Garmin Instinct Crossover AMOLED Smartwatch
Garmin’s Instinct Crossover AMOLED blends a rugged analog-digital hybrid design with a bright full-color AMOLED display for everyday wear and serious training. Part of the durable Instinct line, it adds enhanced GPS, a two-color LED flashlight, and 100-meter water resistance in a lightweight, fiber-reinforced polymer case with a steel bezel. Battery life extends up to 14 days, and comprehensive fitness tracking supports a wide range of sports and activities. Priced at $649.99, it’s a capable, tough smartwatch that pairs easily with the rest of a watch rotation.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 39MM Grey Dial Leather Stap (5146G-010)
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2022 Patek Philippe Nautilus 40MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (5811/1G 001), got bid to $78,500 but did not meet the reserve - make an offer]
Auction Report: Patek Philippe 5146G-010 Annual Calendar, Slate-Grey Serenity in White Gold
Patek’s Annual Calendar is a young classic, and this 39 mm white-gold 5146G-010 with the slate-grey dial shows exactly why the complication still feels modern. The watch pares down the visual noise and elevates the useful stuff: power-reserve arc at 12, month at 3, day at 9, and a moonphase with date neatly stacked at 6. Inside is Patek’s workhorse annual-calendar caliber 324 S IRM QA LU, an automatic movement that manages the whole show and needs correction just once a year when February flips to March, with about 45 hours of power reserve.
This reference sits at an important inflection point in Patek’s history with the complication. Patek invented the wrist-worn annual calendar in 1996 with the ref. 5035; in 2005, the brand replaced it with the larger, cleaner 5146 you see here, adding the power-reserve and standardizing the moonphase/date layout that became the family’s signature. The 5146 also shifted the dial language from Roman numerals to applied markers and Explorer-style 3-9-12 for a more contemporary read. It’s the connoisseur’s everyday calendar—highly legible, elegant, and quietly technical.
The example on the block is described as very good and includes papers but no box. Papers matter on a modern Patek; missing the box isn’t fatal, but it does shave a little off the top compared to a full set. Market context today is reassuringly tight for the 5146G: WatchCharts pegs the pre-owned estimate around the high-20s as of this week, while active and recent listings for the exact 5146G-010 and broader 5146G range typically transact in the high-20s to low-30s, with occasional outliers into the mid-30s depending on recency, completeness, and service history. A quick scan shows recent asks and sales spanning roughly $25.7k to $32k on Chrono24, a $28.7k model estimate on WatchCharts, and multiple retailer asks hovering around $33k–$36k. In short: expect healthy liquidity without meme-watch whiplash.
On the wrist, the 39 mm case and slim profile are exactly why collectors keep circling back to the 5146: dressy enough for black tie, casual enough for a Tuesday. The grey dial in this -010 execution is the sweet spot—tonal, restrained, and wonderfully forgiving under different light. If you’re a spec hawk, you’re getting white gold, automatic winding, annual calendar with moonphase, power reserve, and 30 m water resistance, which is plenty for life’s champagne risks and zero for dishwashing.
Bidding strategy? With very good condition and papers present, I’d frame a rational lane at $28k–$32k, nudging higher only if the papers confirm a recent service or the watch is exceptionally crisp. The lack of a box probably keeps it honest, but the grey-dial G models have enough steady demand that you won’t be stranded if you ever decide to move it on. If you land it near the WatchCharts fair estimate, you’ve bought right; if you push toward the low-30s, make sure the example is as clean as the photos suggest.
Provenance, place in the line, daily practicality—this one ticks the boxes. The 5146 is the reference that made Patek’s annual calendar feel like a lifelong companion rather than a museum piece, and the -010 grey dial is the grown-up choice. Auction closes at 9:58 p.m. ET on Thursday, October 16, 2025—set your snipe and let the calendar do what it was built to do. See it Now on Grailzee >
Current bid: $22,000