BuyingTime Daily - October 15, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – October 15, 2025
Watchfinder & Co. is doubling down on pre-owned luxury with a third Paris location, this time at La Vallée Village, where Mickey Mouse meets moneyed wristwear. With over 400 pieces on display from Rolex, Omega, and Cartier, the Richemont-owned reseller is capitalizing on France’s growing appetite for certified secondhand.
In pricing news, the post-tariff market shuffle continues. Patek Philippe just raised U.S. prices by 15%, but its value retention is down across the board—especially the Calatrava, which is now leading the retreat with a -4.3% drop. Meanwhile, Rolex keeps steady, unfazed by tariffs or economic gravity, with strong secondary premiums and ongoing waitlists that show no signs of thinning.
Provenance fans, rejoice: two solid-gold Omega Speedmasters once worn by astronauts Richard Gordon and Edgar Mitchell are up for grabs at RR Auction. With expected six-figure bids and deep space bragging rights, these timepieces mix NASA history with heavy-metal horology.
Luxury watch brands are increasingly pushing sales through their own boutiques, but a new Deloitte study reminds us: most shoppers still want to buy in person, preferably from multibrand retailers where they can try things on and chat it up. Younger buyers continue to favor vintage and pre-owned, and pre-owned continues to look like the sector’s fastest-moving train.
Porsche Design gets the deep-dive treatment this week with ten reasons collectors should pay closer attention. The blend of Bauhaus, turbo-charged aesthetics, and tool-watch seriousness might finally be getting its due. And speaking of masterworks, Vacheron Constantin unveiled its “La Quête Du Temps” automaton clock—a 6,293-component stunner with celestial maps and lapis lazuli for days.
Benzinger is repping the handcraft movement in London with its new GAP 2 and in-house movement, while Angelus, Bremont, Frederique Constant, and Longines roll out everything from vintage-style chronographs to new pilot watches. Even Luminox is dropping survival-ready aluminum field watches for your next Bear Grylls cosplay.
Mido quietly made one of the year’s best affordable sports watches in the Multifort TV Big Date Titanium, and Omegamodernized its Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon line with sleeker cases and fresh colorways—including a tribute to Jim Lovell’s lunar gaze.
Parmigiani Fleurier delivers a ruby-dialed Tonda PF 36 mm in two-tone, reminding everyone that elegance still has a place between smartwatches and skeleton dials. TAG Heuer gets extreme with new GMTs and F1-inspired tourbillons, while Timex and Yema crank up the retro racing vibes at entry-level prices that don’t require a loan.
Zenith rounds things out with two sapphire-cased Defy Zero G stunners priced firmly in supercar territory, and Gérald Genta returns with the spike-studded Oursin 36—a gold-on-onyx sea urchin that reminds us watchmaking should still be fun.
And in the Wearing Time segment, Trilobe makes a serious leap with its Trente-Deux, signaling a new era for French horology that’s both architectural and sporty. Somewhere between the moon, Paris, and Geneva, the watch world keeps spinning.
News Time
Watchfinder continues its European expansion with third Parisian point of sale
Watchfinder & Co. has opened a third French showroom at La Vallée Village, the luxury shopping destination near Disneyland Paris. It’s the first pre-owned watch retailer in that location and will feature more than 400 certified watches from brands like Rolex, Omega, and Cartier. The expansion reflects rising demand for pre-owned luxury in France and builds on Watchfinder’s Continental growth since its 2018 acquisition by Richemont.
Rolex prices are rising but Patek Philippe is falling
Despite a 15% U.S. price hike from Patek Philippe, Rolex prices have remained stable and continue to enjoy positive value retention across the portfolio. Patek’s overall VR has fallen to -4.3%, with the Calatrava seeing the steepest drops. Meanwhile, Rolex demand remains robust, with no post-tariff price increases and continued waitlists that sustain hefty secondary market premiums.
Two Solid-Gold Omega Speedmasters Owned by NASA Astronauts Are up for Auction
Two solid-gold Omega Speedmasters once owned by astronauts Richard Gordon and Edgar Mitchell are headed to RR Auction’s Space Exploration sale. Expected to exceed $100,000 each, the commemorative watches are notable for their rarity, provenance, and unique engravings. One marks Mitchell’s Apollo 14 mission, where Mitchell became the sixth person to walk on the moon. The sale includes more than 600 space-related lots and runs until October 16.
The latest on Watch Pricing
Luxury watch prices are climbing as brands push sales through their own boutiques rather than multibrand retailers, even though most consumers still prefer multibrand stores. A Deloitte study shows over 60% of shoppers want to buy in person to try pieces on and get personalized advice. Younger buyers are accelerating interest in vintage and pre-owned watches for affordability, sustainability, and uniqueness. Together these trends point to pre-owned as a critical growth engine for the industry.
Feature Time
Porsche Design Timepieces: 10 Reasons Why Watch Collectors Should Pay Close Attention Now
Porsche Design timepieces are drawing increasing interest for their distinctive blend of design philosophy, technical innovation, and brand heritage. The piece highlights ten aspects that set these watches apart, from unique aesthetics to thoughtful engineering choices. As tastes evolve in luxury watch collecting, these models are positioned as compelling additions for enthusiasts seeking style and substance. Their exclusivity and functionality further reinforce their appeal to modern collectors.
In-Depth: Up Close And Personal With The Vacheron Constantin La Quête Du Temps Clock With Automaton
Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête du Temps clock showcases 6,293 components and an automaton called the Astronomer, combining mechanical mastery with visual poetry. Seven years in development, it integrates retrograde displays, a perpetual calendar, and a celestial map of constellations. Luxurious materials like lapis lazuli and diamonds elevate the clock’s presence, while the automaton crafted by François Junod animates the narrative of time. The result is a modern tribute to traditional craft as the maison marks its 270th anniversary.
Benzinger showcases handcrafted mastery at WatchPro Salon 2025
Benzinger Watches underscores traditional artistry with in-house movements and meticulous techniques such as hand guilloché and engraving. Led by Jochen Benzinger, the atelier produces a small number of pieces each year, including the acclaimed GAP 1 featuring a decorated Habring2 caliber. Building on that success, the GAP 2 arrives with a handmade in-house movement that deepens the brand’s craft credentials. Benzinger will present alongside 30-plus watchmakers at WatchPro Salon 2025 in London, signaling sustained interest in handcrafted luxury.
The Latest Time
Angelus
Introducing: The Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold
This limited edition, capped at 10 pieces, channels mid-century chronograph aesthetics with modern execution. A 37 mm 18k yellow gold case frames a black domed dial with a distinctive telemeter scale. Inside is the hand-wound A5000 monopusher chronograph by La Joux-Perret, paired with sapphire crystal and a water-resistant case. Its Saffiano calfskin strap completes a refined, vintage-tinged package.
Bremont
First Look: The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel
Bremont’s new Terra Nova Jumping Hour adds a protective brushed steel cover and three apertures for hours, minutes, and running seconds. A customized Sellita caliber delivers the instantaneous jump and a 56-hour power reserve. The 38 mm steel case comes on a 3‑link bracelet or a brown nubuck strap. Vintage cues and strong legibility meet modern functionality in a robust field watch format.
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Unveils Two New Variations of the Classics Moneta Moonphase
Two elegant 37 mm additions lean into vintage charm: one with yellow gold‑colored PVD and silver‑toned dial, the other with a Milanese mesh bracelet and blue dial with moon phase. At just 7.65 mm thin, both are powered by the quartz FC‑206 with up to 60 months of battery life. Thoughtful detailing underscores the brand’s accessible luxury positioning. Pricing lands at $1,495.
Longines
Longines Expands Its Spirit Collection With Two New Pilot’s Watches
Longines adds the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback, each honoring the brand’s aviation heritage with modern engineering. The Spirit Pilot brings a 39 mm three‑hand design with 72‑hour power reserve and high legibility. The 39.5 mm Flyback chronograph pairs a flyback function with a countdown timer and a hand‑wound caliber under a display back. Both emphasize clarity, reliability, and adventure.
Luminox
Luminox adds another watch to Bear Grylls’ kit bag
The Bear Grylls Survival Land 3710 Series debuts with a lightweight, anti‑corrosive ALUMI‑NOX aluminum case. A 43 mm field‑style layout, sand‑textured dial, and Luminox Light Technology boost durability and visibility. Swiss Quartz RONDA 515, sapphire crystal, and 10 ATM water resistance reinforce performance. Offered in Sand and Anthracite, it’s priced around $636.
Mido
This Underrated Affordable Swiss Brand Quietly Launched Its Best Sports Watch Yet
The Multifort TV Big Date Titanium shifts away from the usual integrated‑bracelet playbook with Aquanaut‑inspired lines. A lightweight titanium case and bracelet lower heft while raising durability. An ETA‑based automatic delivers an 80‑hour power reserve and big date complication, paired with a refined dial of engraved horizontal lines. At $1,580, it’s a strong value in the sports segment.
Omega
Introducing: Omega Updates The Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon For 2025
Four refreshed models keep the 44.25 mm profile but refine cases, movements, and colorways. The Dark Side of the Moon 9900 Auto leans black‑and‑white, while the Grey Side brings a skeletonized grey design inspired by Jim Lovell’s lunar view. Black Black Auto maintains the stealth aesthetic, and Black Red Manual introduces a hand‑wound option with red accents. Collectively, they modernize the line while maintaining its core identity.
First Look: Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Collection (incl. Video) Read More >
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm: Contemporary Elegance in Two-Tone
A refined 36 mm two‑tone build in steel and 18k rose gold is paired with a deep ruby dial. Baguette‑cut diamond indices and a hand‑guilloché Grain d’Orge pattern underscore the elevated finish. The in‑house PF770 offers a 60‑hour reserve and 100 m water resistance. At $40,848, it balances grace with daily‑wear robustness.
Introducing: A Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial Read More >
TAG Heuer
Introducing: New GMT and Gold editions of the TAG Heuer Carrera Extreme Sport
Three 2025 additions include a GMT Twin‑Time with split‑color ceramic bezel and Grade‑2 titanium case, a luxe rose gold chronograph tuned for daily wear, and a 75‑piece Tourbillon honoring F1’s 75th anniversary. The GMT brings advanced dual‑time functionality with a teal accent. The rose gold model layers skeleton aesthetics over a black dial. The limited Tourbillon blends high‑end materials with striking design for collectors.
New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time: Two Time Zones Is Only Half The Story Read More >
Timex
Timex’s Beloved Q Lineup Gets a Pair of Slick, Affordable ‘70s-Inspired Retro Chronographs
Two Q Timex Chronographs channel ‘70s racing cues and the El Primero legend, with tri‑colored subdials and a tachymeter bezel. The 40 mm quartz models come in white dial on leather for $219 or blue dial on steel for $249. Water resistance is 50 m, with a minimalist vibe versus earlier Waterbury designs. They extend Timex’s accessible, stylish chronograph offerings.
Yema
This Affordable Retro Racing Chronograph Makes a Couple of Big Moves
Yema’s Rallygraf Alpine Cup Series blends French watchmaking with motorsport heritage. Retro trapezoidal sub‑dials, an under‑crystal tachymeter, and Alpine blue accents set the tone. A meca‑quartz model in panda and reverse panda starts at $550, while a fully mechanical version limited to 100 pieces is $2,390. Classic styling meets modern practicality for both casual and devoted collectors.
Zenith
First Look: The New Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire Limited Edition
Two tinted‑sapphire 46 mm models celebrate Zenith’s 160th anniversary, each limited to 10 pieces. The patented Gravity Control module keeps the balance and escapement horizontal regardless of orientation. A blue variant adds a lapis lazuli sub‑dial, while the openworked display reveals the El Primero 8812S. Priced at CHF 200,000 or EUR 220,000, they pair cutting‑edge mechanics with artisanal finishing.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Gerald Genta
Hands-On: Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 36 Black Onyx Watch
A modern take on a 1990s design, the Gentissima Oursin 36 features a sea urchin-inspired case with hand-applied spiked studs that spotlight craft and personality. The 36.5 mm, 18k yellow gold case is paired with a black alligator strap and a faceted sapphire crystal that adds visual depth. Inside is an in-house automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve, delivering everyday practicality beneath the bold styling. Priced at 29,000 Swiss Francs, it sits as an accessible luxury within the Gérald Genta lineup.
Trilobe
Hands-On: The Trilobe Trente-Deux, The Brand’s Sportiest (And Most Important) Watch Yet
The Trente-Deux advances Trilobe’s signature rotating disc display with a compact 39.5 mm case and a sporty, fluted bezel. It debuts alongside the brand’s move into its own facility in Ivry-sur-Seine, with the Calibre X-Nihilo showcasing about 80% in-house components. The geometric movement architecture and spring-loaded clasp underline a cohesive, modern design language. At €17,500, it positions Trilobe as a growing force in contemporary French watchmaking.
Watching Time
Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon with New Movements, in 4 Different Versions.
Hands On with Rolex’s First New Watch in 13 Years, the Land-Dweller!
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER HANDS ON ALL 4 NEW DARK & GREY SIDE OF THE MOON WATCHES!
Hands-On With The New Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Watches
These 8 Affordable Watches Are the Best Value for Money!
John Mayer Has Terrible Taste In Watches.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
2022 Patek Philippe Nautilus 40MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (5811/1G 001)
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2025 Tudor 1926 Luna 39MM Black Dial Steel Bracelet (91560), got bid to $2,050 but did not meet the reserve - make an offer]
Auction Report: End‑of‑Line Elegance — 2022 Patek Philippe Nautilus 40 mm “5811/1G‑001”
Tonight at 10:40 pm your hammer falls on a remarkable moment: the bidding for this 2022 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G‑001 will close, and a new chapter will begin for this elegant timepiece. The seller describes the watch as being in “fair” condition; it still retains a protective sticker on the case back, and it comes complete with box and papers bearing a 2022 date. That said, “fair” in the world of high horology suggests there may be visible wear or minor finish degradation, perhaps on the bracelet or case, and potential imperceptible micro‑scratches or surface polishing over time. Prospective bidders should take that into account when assessing overall value.
The model itself is a fascinating pivot in the Nautilus lineage. In October 2022, Patek Philippe introduced the 5811 as the successor to the much‑coveted 5711, but with a twist: the 5811 is crafted in white gold rather than stainless steel. Its case is 41 mm (measured 10 to 4 o’clock) with an integrated bracelet in the same white gold alloy. The dial continues the Nautilus tradition with a horizontal “teak” motif, here realized in a sunburst blue tone that subtly graduates to black at the periphery, a design echo nodding back to earlier references. A framed date aperture at 3 o’clock preserves the symmetry and utility collectors value.
From a historical perspective, the Nautilus was born in 1976 as Patek’s answer to the bold new genre of luxury sports watches, famously designed by Gérald Genta with a porthole‑inspired case shape and integrated bracelet. Over decades the Nautilus line evolved through references such as the 3700, 3800, and ultimately the 5711, which by the 2000s had become iconic. When Patek officially discontinued the steel 5711 in 2021, the market reacted dramatically, cementing the 5711’s status as legendary and placing scarcity premiums on surviving examples. In that light, the arrival of the white gold 5811 was widely seen not as a dilution but as a strategic repositioning—delivering the same proportions with precious‑metal exclusivity. The shift also effectively ended any realistic hope for a steel version of the 5811, leaving the 5711 as a defunct steel legend and the 5811 as a new, more precious chapter.
In terms of market value, the 5811/1G is commanding serious premiums. Its official retail price in the U.S. is quoted at about $89,767. WatchCharts reports a prevailing secondary market value near $152,700, representing roughly a 70 percent premium over retail. On Chrono24, listings for the model currently span from approximately $150,000 up to $170,000 for the finest examples. Some retailers, like Razny, have listed the watch for about $89,767, though such listings often reflect constrained availability or reservations rather than active inventory. Because the 5811 is in production (or was until recently), its secondary market is still forming, but early performance suggests strong demand and limited supply. WatchCharts also notes that this reference tends to sell more quickly than many other Patek models, with a median sale time of about 44.5 days in recent months.
Given all this, how should you, as a bidder, weigh the offer? The fact that this particular specimen is in “fair” condition means that it is unlikely to command the upper echelons of the 5811 market—any visible wear, polishing, or bracelet stretch can affect premium value. The presence of box and papers, and even the protective sticker, are definite advantages and essential to value retention. Condition plus completeness may place this watch somewhere in the mid to upper halves of the auction range for 5811s in similar states.
If the bidding remains below the levels of $145,000, there may be opportunity. Should it push past $160,000, you are entering territory reserved for immaculate, near‑unworn pieces. Because the auction ends tonight, aggressive but measured bidding may be called for — ideally targeting a ceiling below the top comparable examples to preserve margin and avoid overpaying.
As the gavel looms, this is not merely a watch; it is a symbol of transition in the Nautilus saga. Whoever wins this lot will take ownership not only of a finely crafted timepiece but also of a pivot point in Patek Philippe’s lineage. May your bid land appropriately and your investment prove enduring. See it Now on Grailzee >
Current bid: $70,000