BuyingTime Daily - October 14, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
News Time
October 14, 2025
Rolex
The biggest story remains **Rolex’s 2025 price increases**, which drew renewed attention this past weekend following an internal pricing memo leaked to dealers. The memo confirmed that Rolex *will not* issue additional price hikes before year-end, despite the surge in gold costs. Analysts say Rolex is stabilizing prices after twice raising them in early and mid-2025, totaling increases of around 10–14% on gold and two-tone models.
Watches of Switzerland Group
**Watches of Switzerland** (WoS) awarded an additional **£1.8 million in shares** to its CEO Brian Duffy and CFO Anders Romberg, signaling confidence in the company’s recovery following UK luxury market volatility. This news also coincides with fresh rumors that WoS may seek to expand in the US after a slowdown in Europe
LVMH and TAG Heuer Developments
Sources close to LVMH Watch Group indicate that TAG Heuer is preparing a *modular smartwatch refresh* for early 2026, integrating hybrid analog–digital technology to compete with Apple and Garmin premium models. Insider leaks point to early testing under the internal codename “Eclipse”, expected to be unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026.
Independent Brands and Microbrands
Several independent watchmakers have made headlines:
- Bremont announced new investor backing to boost production capacity amid growing US demand.
- Baltic Watches teased a limited-run chronograph collaboration with a French motorsport brand, set for release next month.
- The resurgence of pre-owned luxury continues, with Chrono24 reporting record Q3 growth in Tudor and Omega resale volume.
Feature Time
Cartier: define a territory and stay within it
Cartier has sharpened a coherent identity by blending jewelry savoir-faire with watchmaking, aiming squarely at elegance and desirability. Its recent theme, “the art of metamorphosis,” highlights transforming materials into compelling objects while maintaining a distinct style. The Cartier Privé collection revisits icons like the Tank à Guichets, signaling craft and innovation across both accessible and bespoke pieces. By curating historic vintages alongside new creations, Cartier reinforces a living legacy that resonates across generations.
Icons of Time: A Conversation with Ben Clymer on Craft, Legacy and the Meaning of Time
The “Icons of Time” exhibition presents twelve landmark watches chosen by Ben Clymer to represent nearly a century of horological innovation. Clymer’s curation emphasizes storytelling, selecting pieces for their cultural impact and emotional resonance as much as technical merit. The show connects innovation and legacy, illustrating how icons become vessels for memory. It invites visitors to engage with craft, community, and the expanding cultural narrative around watch collecting.
Introducing: Ming Releases The World’s First 3D Printed Titanium Bracelet-Strap Hybrid With ‘The Polymesh’
Ming’s Polymesh debuts as a 3D-printed titanium bracelet-strap hybrid composed of 1,693 interlinked components without pins or screws. A fully articulated 3D-printed titanium tang buckle completes the design, enabling a drape that mimics fabric while remaining lightweight. Manufactured in grade 5 titanium through layered sintering, it showcases an advanced consumer application of additive manufacturing. Priced at CHF 1,500 in 20 mm, with 22 mm in development, it marks a notable leap in watch-accessory engineering.
Lunch With: Hublot CEO Julien Tornare
Julien Tornare underscores a love for mechanical watches “with a heartbeat” while steering Hublot’s next chapter at its 20-year mark. He prioritizes innovation that respects the Big Bang heritage, focusing on quality movements and creative materials, including two-color ceramics. Addressing market dynamics and collaborations, he aims to strengthen the brand’s position as a serious watchmaker. Looking toward 2030, he envisions bold concepts that redefine how we measure time.
The Market Evolution of Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar Chronographs
Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar chronographs trace an eight-decade arc from the trailblazing Ref. 1518 to the modern Ref. 5270. Each reference—1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, and 5270—advanced design and mechanics, setting collector benchmarks. The 1518 and 2499 stand as blue-chip pillars, while the 3970 and 5970 offer more approachable entry points. The 5270 blends tradition with contemporary demand, reaffirming Patek’s commitment to craft and innovation.
Wait A Minute! We Need To Clarify What Constitutes A New Model
This piece challenges how watch brands count “new models,” arguing that size or dial color variants are often inflated as distinct releases. It urges clarity similar to the car industry, where full redesigns count as new models but facelifts do not. By distinguishing true novelties from minor updates, brands can communicate offerings more honestly. Clearer definitions would temper hype and help collectors navigate product lines more accurately.
Who Was George Daniels? — Fighting Quartz In Times Of Crisis
George Daniels, famed inventor of the Co-Axial escapement, transformed mechanical watchmaking with innovations that improved efficiency and longevity. From humble beginnings in North London to crafting just 37 watches over six decades, he combined technical mastery with artistic refinement. His work earned top accolades and auction records, preserving mechanical watchmaking’s prestige during the Quartz Crisis. Daniels’ legacy anchors modern independent watchmaking and continues to inspire horologists worldwide.
The Latest Time
Christopher Ward
Introducing the C12 Brooklynite - the Second Collaboration by Christopher Ward and Worn & Wound - Worn & Wound
The C12 Brooklynite is a limited edition collaboration between Christopher Ward and Worn & Wound that honors the 10th anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair. Its dial and geometry take cues from Brooklyn’s Art Deco landmark, the Williamsburg Savings Bank Tower, translated into a modern, 12‑sided case design. Powered by an in-house movement and delivered with both a steel bracelet and black rubber strap, it blends architectural detail with everyday versatility. Limited to 100 pieces at $5,260, it debuts at Windup Watch Fair NYC with additional units online soon after.
Jack Mason
Jack Mason Steps Up Its Game With The New Pursuit Pro Tool Watches
Jack Mason’s new Pursuit Pro Tool Watches are built for serious use with a 40 mm stainless steel case, reinforced scratch‑resistant coating, and 200 m water resistance. Two variants, Shadow and Hunter, feature Super‑LumiNova for low‑light visibility and a countdown bezel for timing utility. Inside is the regulated La Joux‑Perret G101 movement with a 68‑hour power reserve and improved accuracy. Priced at $1,399, deliveries are slated for the end of October 2025.
Kiwame Tokyo
Introducing: Accessible Elegance from Japan, with New Brand Kiwame Tokyo
Kiwame Tokyo debuts with the Kurotsuki and Usuki, channeling refined 1940s design through clean dials and careful finishing. The Kurotsuki offers a glossy black dial with brushed applied numerals, while the Usuki contrasts an ivory dial with blackened numerals and a blued seconds hand. Both run the reliable Miyota 9039, keep compact dimensions, and include water resistance for daily wear. Priced at USD 650, the first batch sold out with a second release planned for early November.
Nomos
Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation Series
Nomos introduces three limited Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer models with galvanized black dials accented by vivid, instrument‑inspired colors. Each version—Trace, Vector, and Grid—pairs distinctive colorways with the brand’s Bauhaus‑driven clarity and a versatile 40 mm profile. The in‑house DUW 3202 powers the worldtimer functionality while keeping the watches slim and wearable. At €3,940, they combine sharp design, useful travel capability, and accessible pricing.
Orient
Introducing: The Retro-Futuristic Orient Revival World Map Watch
Celebrating 75 years, Orient’s Revival World Map reinterprets a 1969 classic with a vivid dial showing oceans in alternating blue rings and a colorful atlas for landmasses. The 40‑hour F6922 automatic provides hand‑winding and hacking, wrapped in a stainless steel case with gold‑plated accents and 200 m water resistance. Retro‑futurist charm meets practical specs for a daily diver with character. Limited to 1,500 pieces and priced at €473, it’s a value‑driven nod to the brand’s heritage.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Glashütte Original
Hands-On With The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase
The Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase refines classic Glashütte design with modern details in a balanced 40 mm case that is water resistant to 50 meters. Its in-house caliber 36-24 delivers a robust 100-hour power reserve and traditional German finishing cues. New dials add blued 18K gold Roman numerals, a moonphase, and the signature panorama date for a more elegant presentation. Priced at €12,200, it reads as a sophisticated daily wearer that bridges formal and casual settings.
Longines
Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic — Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967
The Ultra-Chron Classic modernizes Longines’ 1967 high-beat icon with a vintage-forward silver sunburst dial, applied markers, and crosshair layout. Offered in 37 mm and 40 mm, it adds contemporary practicality, including water resistance and a choice of a black alligator strap or five-row steel bracelet. The high-frequency automatic movement targets precise timekeeping while preserving period charm. Pricing is €3,800 on leather and €3,900 on bracelet.
Mondaine
Functional Design with Italian Flair: Hands-On with the Mondaine Doppio Solar
Mondaine’s Doppio Solar pairs clean, sporty design with a two-tone dial and the brand’s signature red seconds hand for instant legibility and character. A solar-powered movement supplies up to eight months of autonomy without additional light. The 91% recycled stainless-steel case and vegan leather strap made from grape byproducts underline the watch’s sustainability story. At $455, it delivers comfort, eco-conscious materials, and easy wearability, though the small, offset date window can be harder to read.
Watching Time
Hands-On With The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P
Hands-on Review! Christopher Ward Sealander Stone Dials and the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty.
Rip-Off Pricing In Luxury Watches
Rolex Un-Cool in 2025? Neo Vintage OMEGA over Rolex? | Q&A
The New Longines Spirit Pilot Is FINALLY The Tudor Killer I Knew Longines Could Make: 1 Week Review
Restarting My Watch Collection with £5,000 (Affordable Picks That Last)
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO
In episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 are shared, along with discussions on the leadership at Vacheron Constantin and the potential for brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin to gain market share from independent watchmakers.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
2025 Tudor 1926 Luna 39MM Black Dial Steel Bracelet (91560)
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Carmine Concept” 40MM Aftermarket Skeleton Dial Aftermarket Textile Strap (ASREF5), got bid to $12,500 but did not meet the reserve - by a mile - make an offer]
Auction Report: “Moonlit Debut: The 2025 Tudor 1926 Luna (91560) — A Modern Classic in the Spotlight”
Tonight’s auction features the just-released Tudor 1926 Luna (ref. 91560), the brand’s first-ever moonphase watch. Housed in a 39mm polished steel case with a matching bracelet, this new model blends classic dress styling with a poetic complication at 6 o’clock. The black sun-brushed dial is accented by gold-tone Arabic numerals, sword hands, and a date window at 3. The seller represents this example as new, with its caseback sticker intact, box and papers dated October 3, 2025, and all accessories included. The auction ends at 6:05 pm tonight, October 13, 2025.
There are a few factors worth weighing. The movement’s third-party origin may not satisfy movement purists. The 38-hour power reserve is merely average by modern standards. And since this is a just-launched model, the long-term trajectory of resale value is impossible to predict—especially as more examples enter the market or future dial variants follow. But none of those concerns detract from what Tudor has achieved here: an elegant, thoughtfully executed moonphase complication offered at a price point that feels reasonable in today’s luxury landscape. You don’t often see “new release,” “new complication,” and “new condition” converge in a single lot this quickly after a global debut.
Retailing at $2,800, the Luna is already commanding premiums on the secondary market, with some listings reaching $4,000+. As one of the first available examples, this lot could draw spirited bidding. A full-set, mint-condition piece like this should reasonably land between $3,200 and $4,500. It’s a compelling chance to own a piece of Tudor history as the brand enters the world of complications with elegance, restraint, and solid value.
The 1926 Luna is worth a long look under tonight’s metaphorical auction moonlight. Current bid: $1,400. See it Now on Grailzee >