BuyingTime Daily - October 13, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – October 13, 2025
The Trump Tariffs are back, and this time they’ve got your Rolex in the crosshairs. A growing number of watch buyers are shifting toward the pre-owned market as luxury Swiss imports—Rolex, especially—are hit with hefty new tariffs. The result? Retail prices climb, grey market heat rises, and consumers start hunting value in vintage instead of new. It’s the kind of policy whiplash that keeps flippers, collectors, and retailers on edge while fundamentally changing how people shop for high-end timepieces.
Speaking of vintage heat, Jason Statham made waves at London Fashion Week sporting a rare Rolex Submariner 5514 “Comex”, a dive watch with legitimate tool credentials and underwater legacy. His expanding collection is a masterclass in stealth collecting—no hype pieces, just solid references with serious pedigree.
For those still studying the canon, a roundup of 10 must-know Rolex references reads like a greatest hits album: from the 6538 Big Crown to the Explorer 1655, the Sea-Dweller 1665, and the Daytona 6263. Whether you’re building your own collection or just brushing up, it’s a reminder of how deep the Rolex bench really is.
Glashütte Original gets artistic with the Senator Meissen series, featuring ultra-limited porcelain dials crafted at the legendary Meissen factory. Meanwhile, Hublot taps Daniel Arsham for a titanium-sapphire sculpture of a watch—the MP-17 Arsham Splash—making conceptual art wearable for just $69K.
In New York, UBS’s House of Craft wrapped up with a well-attended Wrist Check Podcast and an “Icons of Time” show-and-tell session. Over in Switzerland, La Joux-Perret opened its doors to media, showcasing its 150,000-movement operation, its work with Arnold & Son, and solar quartz innovation for LVMH.
On celebrity watch patrol, Timothée Chalamet, Tom Brady, and Romeo Beckham sported a diverse lineup of watches that would make any collector jealous—Urban Jürgensen, Patek Philippe, and vintage Audemars Piguet, respectively. Meanwhile, Tudor’s Black Bay gets the “one watch collection” treatment in a thoughtful feature on minimalist collecting.
Budget buyers weren’t left out, either. Picks from Tissot, Citizen, Blancpain x Swatch, and Orient prove that horological joy can be had well below five figures.
In the new releases department, Aera, Ebel, Kurono Tokyo, Longines, and Hublot all dropped fresh models ranging from salmon dials to orange ceramic showstoppers. Highlights include the Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar and the Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, proving that heritage styling continues to pull weight.
Hands-on reviews include the elegant A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the upgraded Citizen Tsuyosa 60, and the playful-yet-mechanical Hvilina L&MR Mechanical Lion, which arrives with train-themed whimsy. Moser’s Flying Hours and NORQAIN’s Skeleton Chrono bring futuristic energy, while TAG Heuer’s Connected Calibre E5 doubles down on wearable tech for golfers, runners, and health trackers.
Finally, in the “watch thoughts” corner: underrated white dials, Grand Seiko visits, Omega teasers, and Halloween lume overload are lighting up forums and feeds. Just another manic Monday in watch world.
News Time
How Trump’s Tariffs on Rolex and More Luxury Swiss Watches Are Driving Pre-owned Demand
Trump’s tariffs on luxury Swiss watches, including Rolex, are pushing buyers toward pre-owned models as newly imported pieces face higher prices. This shift reflects a broader luxury trend in which rising retail costs are steering consumers to second-hand options for value and uniqueness. The policy’s ripple effects continue to reshape buying behavior and market dynamics across the category. Collectors and casual buyers alike are reassessing where the best value sits in a changing landscape.
Feature Time
Jason Statham Adds Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner to Collection
Jason Statham has added a rare Rolex Submariner 5514 “Comex” to a collection that already includes the Explorer 1655, Submariner 5513, and Daytona Ref. 6263. The 5514, historically issued to professional divers and linked to underwater exploration, is highly prized among vintage collectors. Statham showcased the watch at London Fashion Week, underscoring his affinity for professional tool watches with real provenance. The piece reinforces his status as a discerning collector of significant vintage Rolex references.
Every Man Should Know These 10 Rolex References
This feature highlights 10 milestone Rolex references that shaped design and functionality, from the Submariner 6538 “Big Crown” to the Explorer 6350 tied to Everest. It spans icons like the Submariner 5513 and Sea-Dweller 1665 with a helium escape valve to the Daytona 6263 and GMT-Master 1675 for jet-set travelers. The Explorer II 1655 and Submariner 1680 mark tool-to-luxury evolution, while the Daytona 16520 modernized the chronograph in the late ’80s. Together they illustrate Rolex’s steady push for precision, innovation, and aspirational design.
Glashütte Original Senator Meissen Watches & Visiting The Meissen Porcelain Factory
Glashütte Original’s Senator Meissen series pairs German watchmaking with Meissen’s hand-crafted porcelain dials, cut from razor-thin discs and meticulously painted. Limited two-tone dials are capped at 150 pieces, with a colorful variant limited to eight, emphasizing artistry and rarity. Inside is the in-house Calibre 36-16 with a 100-hour power reserve, set in 18k red gold. Pricing at €29,900 and €35,900 reflects a meeting of two historic crafts in horological form.
daniel arsham sculpts his first hublot wristwatch to capture movement of rippling waters
Hublot and artist Daniel Arsham present the MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire, limited to 99 pieces. A splash-shaped aperture reveals the Meca-10 manual-wind movement, merging mechanical depth with Arsham’s “collapsed time” aesthetic. The titanium case and sapphire crystal bezel emphasize light and transparency, giving the watch an architectural presence. Priced at $69,000, it is available exclusively via Hublot boutiques and select retailers.
Photo Report: UBS House of Craft NYC [Day 3]
The event’s final day featured a live Wrist Check Podcast crossover on watch enthusiasm and the move to cable TV. TanTan Wang interviewed collector and beverage director Jhonel Faelnar on the overlaps between wine and watch collecting. Hodinkee readers gathered for the Icons of Time exhibition, sharing notable pieces and community stories. Photographers Clarence Chan and Christian Park captured the highlights from a packed closing day.
Dispatch: A Visit To The La Joux-Perret Manufacture In La Chaux-de-Fonds
La Joux-Perret produces roughly 150,000 movements annually, supporting independent and high-end brands with calibers like the G100 and L100. The Manufacture has kept its identity while expanding capacity, and collaborates closely with Arnold & Son and Angelus, both GPHG nominees. A notable sustainability angle includes Solar Quartz movements for LVMH that can run up to 15 years without a battery change. The visit spotlights how tradition and modern engineering coexist within a lean team of around 120.
The 7 Best Watches of the Week, From Timothée Chalamet’s Urban Jürgensen to Romeo Beckham’s AP
Celebrities showcased a wide range of styles, from Timothée Chalamet’s Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 to Romeo Beckham’s vintage Audemars Piguet Bamboo at the Singapore Grand Prix. Tonatiuh wore a Zenith Defy Skyline Sapphire, while Tom Brady sported a Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time and Ryan Reynolds a Panerai Radiomir. Jacob Elordi’s Cartier Panthère and Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra rounded out the week’s highlights. The roundup underscores how contemporary celebrity culture is elevating watch storytelling and brand narratives.
The Tudor Black Bay and the Myth of the One Watch Collection
The “one watch collection” idea stems from collectors’ anxiety over watches going unworn and a desire to simplify. While the concept can be idealistic, it clarifies what truly matters in daily wear. Tudor’s Black Bay, with its burgundy bezel and chronometer-certified movement, emerges as a pragmatic all-rounder. It balances understated design with versatile performance, inviting genuine community connection without the need for a louder statement piece.
Buying Guide: Six Of The Best Budget-Friendly Watch Deals
This guide features six value-driven picks across styles and price points. Standouts include the Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80 for Swiss craft at an approachable price and Citizen’s Zenshin 60 Super Titanium for lightness and durability. The Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms offers playful design and entry-level appeal, while Batavi’s Marina Chronograaf adds accessible chronograph functionality. Orient’s Bambino 75th Anniversary and Seiko 5 Sports SKX variants round out reliable, stylish choices for budget-conscious enthusiasts.
The Latest Time
Aera
C-1 Chrono
Aera’s limited C-1 Chrono channels the golden age of motoring with a modern reverse panda dial and hand-painted racing red hands. The 42 mm case uses 904L stainless steel, and hand-applied Super-Luminova ensures strong low-light legibility. It runs the Sellita SW510 BH automatic with a 56-hour power reserve and 10 ATM water resistance. Limited to 300 pieces, each watch includes two integrated straps and a two-year warranty extendable to three upon registration.
Ebel
Introducing: The New Ebel 1911 Chronograph Ice Blue
The Ebel 1911 Chronograph Ice Blue pairs a 44 mm stainless steel case with a galvanic sunray ice-blue dial and warm brown registers for distinctive contrast. Inside, the automatic Sellita SW510-1a provides a 48-hour power reserve, chronograph functionality, and a quick-set date. Water resistant to 100 meters, it comes on either a brushed and polished bracelet or a black perforated calfskin strap. Priced at EUR 3,950, it blends contemporary styling with versatile performance.
Hublot
First Look: The New, Eye-Catching Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Orange Ceramic
Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Orange Ceramic debuts in a bold, 42 mm tonneau-shaped case crafted from vivid orange ceramic. Limited to 200 pieces, it features an automatic chronograph with a 50-hour power reserve, shown through an openworked dial with matching accents. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and priced at CHF 32,900. Additional configurations, including a non-limited dark Frosted Carbon version, highlight Hublot’s continued innovation with cutting-edge materials.
Kurono Tokyo
Introducing: The Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial
Designed by Hajime Asaoka to mark Kurono Tokyo’s 60th anniversary, the Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial features a 38 mm polished steel case and a matte salmon dial with vertical strokes. A black onyx cabochon crowns the elegant profile, while the Miyota 9122 automatic provides a 40-hour power reserve and triple calendar functionality. Limited in production, online orders begin October 17, 2025, at USD 2,380. The piece balances refined aesthetics with practical calendar complications.
Longines
New Release: Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Watch
The Ultra-Chron Classic revives Longines’ 1967 high-frequency icon with mid-century lines in 37 mm and 40 mm stainless steel. A sunburst bezel, textured silver dial, and sharp indices underscore the vintage character, while the L836.6 high-frequency automatic delivers a 52-hour reserve and chronometer-certified accuracy. Offered on black alligator leather or a stainless steel bracelet, it suits daily wear with a refined presence. Pricing is $3,900 on leather and $4,000 on bracelet through authorized dealers.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Hands-On: At The Audrain Newport Concours With The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Watches With Onyx Dials
A. Lange & Söhne’s limited Saxonia Thin with onyx dials accompanied the brand’s presence at the Audrain Newport Concours, underscoring shared values between fine automobiles and high horology. Offered in platinum and 18k Honey Gold, the pieces emphasize refined design and sophisticated movements rather than overt promotion. The brand’s strategy focuses on building genuine relationships with enthusiasts in authentic settings. The watches showcase restrained elegance and craft while strengthening personal connections within the collector community.
Citzen
Value Proposition: How Good is the Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic?
Citizen’s Tsuyosa 60 Automatic upgrades the successful line with a calibre 8310 offering a 60-hour power reserve and a more refined presentation. A 40 mm stainless steel case and new textured dial preserve the sporty-elegant character at an accessible price. The bracelet is improved, and the watch maintains everyday versatility with a clean, modern aesthetic. Starting at EUR 379 or USD 575, it presents strong value against pricier competitors.
H. Moser & Cie
Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Flying Hours Watches
The Pioneer Flying Hours refines Moser’s orbital hour display with enhanced legibility and minimalist execution. Hour discs sit below the surface, jumping the current hour instantly, while the Caliber HMC 240 automatic powers the complication. The range spans a stainless steel model with a white fumé dial and a limited red gold and black DLC titanium edition. With notable water resistance and pricing from $34,500 to $46,000, it blends distinctive mechanics with sporty elegance.
Hvilina
A Tribute to the Railway Revolution: Hands-On with the Hvilina L&MR Mechanical Lion
Inspired by the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, the L&MR Mechanical Lion combines a slightly oversized pink gold–plated case with a richly guilloched dial. Design touches include a railroad minute track, alternating Roman markers, and the playful “Beware of the trains” inscription tied to early locomotive lore. It uses the Miyota 9029 automatic with a 42-hour reserve and includes a unique winding key. Limited to 300 pieces per color at €467, it delivers distinctive character and thoughtful detailing.
Norqain
Hands-On: NORQAIN Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Watches
NORQAIN’s Independence Skeleton Chrono 42 mm pairs a titanium case and 100 m water resistance with a sculptural, openworked dial. The NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre NK24/1 offers a 62-hour reserve, a 30-minute chronograph, and a flyback function. Nature-inspired forms and bold colors such as jade green and purple deliver strong visual identity. Retailing from $7,290 to $7,490, it bridges sport performance and artistic expression.
TAG Heuer
Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5
The Connected Calibre E5 advances TAG Heuer’s smartwatch line with 45 mm and new 40 mm options in steel or titanium and a redesigned in-house OS. Health tracking, a dedicated wellness app, and sport-specific tools improve daily utility. Golfer-focused features such as auto-scoring and course mapping join a runner’s coach and training plans. Priced from $1,600 to $2,400, it blends traditional watch sensibility with robust connected capabilities.
Watching Time
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Talking Time
The Worn & Wound Podcast Ep. 419: We Pick Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner and Cartier Tank - Worn & Wound
The podcast discusses alternatives to popular luxury watches, specifically the Rolex Submariner and Cartier Tank, exploring the ongoing debate among watch enthusiasts about substitutes for iconic timepieces. The hosts invite listener feedback on their alternative picks and personal experiences with watch collecting.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
No Reserve - 2025 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase 43MM Meteorite Dial Steel Bracelet (304.30.43.52.01.001)
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Star Wheel 41MM Aventurine Dial Textile Strap (15212NB.OO.A002KB.01) got bid to $41,800 but did not meet the reserve - make an offer]
Auction Report: Fire in the Frame: The 2025 Rolex “Carmine Concept” Daytona — Auction Report & Valuation
Tonight’s auction, closing at 9:21 PM on October 13, 2025, features one of the boldest reinterpretations of a Rolex Daytona to hit the aftermarket: the Carmine Concept 40mm skeletonized chronograph. Officially labeled “ASREF5,” this piece is an all-in aftermarket creation. According to the seller, every visible element—case, bezel, dial, strap, box, and even the paperwork—is non-OEM and part of a bespoke design by Carmine Concept, a customization outfit known for radical makeovers of high-end luxury timepieces.
The watch begins with a red carbon case and a matching black tachymeter bezel that immediately sets it apart from anything issued by Rolex. It’s light, aggressive, and visually explosive. Inside, a fully skeletonized dial reveals the mechanics beneath the surface, with luminous hands, three subdials, and hour markers adding enough functional cues to still resemble a Daytona—at least in layout. Whether or not the movement is stock Rolex or has been altered is not disclosed by the seller, which raises important questions for anyone who expects technical transparency. The strap is a red textile unit, chosen for comfort and a splash of sport styling, and the entire package is delivered with an aftermarket box and custom papers, meaning nothing in this listing comes with Rolex factory provenance.
Carmine Concept, a sub-brand under Skeleton Concept, has made a name for itself by pushing Rolex customization to the visual edge. They take standard Daytonas—often reference 116500 or other modern variants—and completely reimagine them. The case materials shift from stainless steel or gold to forged carbon, the dial is often milled out, and skeletonization reveals bridges and movement parts that Rolex never intended to be on display. These watches are not for the purist. They’re for the statement buyer, the red carpet collector, the Instagram alpha. There’s a following for them, albeit a niche one, and that market can yield high prices when the right buyer is in the room.
Current comparables in the market help set some context. A “Carbon Concept” Daytona from Skeleton Concept is listed at around $58,000 on platforms like Luxehouze. Other variants float around $47,000 to $60,000 on eBay and boutique resellers. Even a 2 Chainz-branded Skeleton Concept collaboration surfaced recently with a $57,000+ ask. While these are all asking prices and not confirmed sales, they suggest that this aesthetic and level of modification does carry value in certain circles. The challenge is that the resale audience is far narrower than for unmodified Rolexes, and values are almost entirely determined by taste and novelty, not horological purity.
There are risks, naturally. Rolex will not service a watch that’s been skeletonized, carbon-cased, or reworked in this way. The warranty is void, the serviceability questionable, and resale murky. The box and papers are aftermarket, so there’s no traditional documentation trail. The movement, while assumed to be a Rolex caliber, may have been partially disassembled or modified, which could complicate maintenance down the line. Authentication is another minefield; without Rolex documentation or a trusted intermediary to verify the original watch underneath, the buyer is placing a lot of trust in the seller’s word—and in the work of the customization studio.
Pricing this piece is an exercise in triangulation. A stock modern Daytona hovers around $30,000–$35,000 on the secondary market. Add another $15,000–$25,000 in customization costs from a high-end atelier like Skeleton Concept, and you’re in the neighborhood of $50,000 to $60,000. That’s consistent with most listings for similar skeletonized Daytonas. If this auction follows that trend, the hammer price will likely fall between $50,000 and $65,000, with upside potential if multiple bidders get emotional. There’s also the possibility it sells under that range if skepticism takes over or condition concerns arise in the final minutes.
Bidders should remain clear-eyed. Ask for macro images. Clarify what parts were altered in the movement. Don’t overestimate resale flexibility. This is a watch for someone who wants to wear something no one else has—or who wants to live a little dangerously in a world of safe steel and gold.
Final thought: if you’re in it for the aesthetics, and not for the asset value, this might be your moment. But if your dream Daytona involves the words “factory sealed” or “original stickers,” this Carmine Concept is more of a fantasy than an investment. Let the red carbon flames guide your bid—but don’t get burned. See it Now on Grailzee >