BuyingTime Daily - October 10, 2025
Curating the Culture, Craft, and Commerce of Time Keeping
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — October 10, 2025
The week ends with a snapshot of an industry feeling the squeeze but still ticking. According to Deloitte, nearly three-quarters of watch executives believe brick-and-mortar retail will continue to dominate over the next five years, even as online channels expand. Tariffs, inflation, and soft demand in China have put pressure on margins, but the U.S. remains a relative bright spot. For now, the hum of physical boutiques still beats the click of a checkout button.
Meanwhile, a new player has entered the scene: Worldwatch.market, a neutral infrastructure project aiming to connect dealers, brands, and collectors without becoming another marketplace competitor. With transparency, education, and sustainability at its core, it could become the industry’s quiet backbone rather than its loudest voice.
Market watchers noted modest improvement in September. The WatchCharts index rose 0.6%, led by Patek Philippe(+2.3%) and Rolex (+0.2%), while Audemars Piguet dipped slightly. Tariff-driven price hikes continue to shape retail behavior—Patek’s U.S. prices are up nearly 15%—though many models still trade below retail.
On the culture front, the UBS House of Craft in New York opened its “Icons of Time” exhibition curated by Ben Clymer, bringing together twelve legendary watches, from Wally Schirra’s Omega Speedmaster to Douglas MacArthur’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Celebrities like Spike Lee added flair to a night of nostalgia and craftsmanship.
Product launches kept coming: Arnold & Son celebrated Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a 10-piece Nebula 40 Steel limited edition, while Breitling turned up the volume with a Carolina Hurricanes–themed Endurance Pro. Glashütte Original leaned into artistry with Meissen porcelain dials, Hublot splashed green lume across its MP-17, and Oris, Seiko, and TAG Heuer filled the season’s spectrum from earthy autumn hues to celestial moonphases.
Among reviews, Cartier’s titanium Santos earned praise for shedding weight without losing elegance, Christopher Ward impressed with its wafer-thin Twelve 660, and Timex reminded everyone that $399 can still buy a serious automatic diver.
At auction, Audemars Piguet took center stage with a Code 11.59 Starwheel Aventurine Dial—bid to $35,800 on Grailzee and closing Saturday night. Expect fireworks if collectors decide that wandering hours are once again worth chasing.
The week’s takeaway? Despite tariffs, inflation, and market fatigue, the watch world remains a stage for optimism, experimentation, and a few well-timed comebacks.
News Time
Business News: With Industry Under Pressure, Watch Buyers and Executives Continue To Favor Brick-And-Mortar Retail: Deloitte Study
Geopolitical tensions, tariffs, and inflation are squeezing the Swiss watch industry and pushing buyers back toward physical retail. A Deloitte study finds roughly two‑thirds of brands get under 10% of sales online, and nearly three‑quarters of executives expect offline to dominate for the next five years. Demand softness is acute in China, while a 39% U.S. tariff on Swiss watch imports is further disrupting trade. Brands and suppliers are focusing on cost control, innovation, and strategic collaborations to navigate the headwinds.
Industry News: Worldwatch.market Launches - A New Infrastructure for the Global Watch Trade
Worldwatch.market debuts as a neutral platform that links dealers, brands, and collectors without competing with existing marketplaces. It targets long‑standing inefficiencies with tools for inventory visibility, peer‑to‑peer communication, and collaboration. Founding members from across the industry back the project, which also promotes education and sustainability through nonprofit partnerships. The goal is to raise trust and transparency while strengthening the craft’s future.
October 2025 Watch Market Update
The WatchCharts index rose 0.6% in September, led by Patek Philippe at 2.3% and a smaller 0.2% uptick for Rolex. Over six months, Patek and Rolex gained 5.7% and 2.0% respectively, while Audemars Piguet slipped 0.2%. Retail prices climbed for several brands, with Patek’s U.S. prices up an average of 14.9% amid tariffs. Despite pockets of growth, many models still trade below retail, underscoring a complex market backdrop.
Feature Time
Photo Report: UBS House Of Craft NYC [Day 1]
“Icons of Time” opened with twelve landmark watches curated by Ben Clymer, including Wally Schirra’s Speedmaster and Douglas MacArthur’s Jaeger‑LeCoultre Reverso. Day one featured lively conversations with Spike Lee and Gary Striewski that added color and context to the exhibition. Guests also watched a live watchmaking demo showcasing traditional techniques. The exhibition continues through the week with additional special guests.
The Watches We Love: TAG Heuer Autavia
Released in 1962, the Autavia bridged automotive and aviation timing with a manual‑wind chronograph, rotating bezel, and high legibility. Its legacy is inseparable from early ambassador Jo Siffert, who helped cement the model’s motorsport status. Reinterpretations in 2017 and 2019 advanced materials and design while keeping the racing DNA intact. Though currently absent from the lineup, the Autavia is expected to return.
The Latest Time
Arnold & Son
Introducing the Arnold & Son Nebula 40 Steel Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition
This limited run marks 75 years of Ahmed Seddiqi with a refined 40 mm stainless steel Nebula showcasing the open-worked, hand-wound A&S5201 and a 90-hour power reserve. A garnet flange with Eastern Arabic numerals frames palladium-plated bridges and a gold-finished main plate. The watch includes a bracelet and two strap options for versatile wear, and water resistance to 30 meters. Only 10 pieces will be made, priced at AED 101,000.
Breitling
Breitling’s latest timepiece channels the spirit of the Carolina Hurricanes
A bold tribute to the NHL team, this Endurance Pro pairs a red inner bezel with a matching Diver Pro rubber strap for a vivid, athletic look. The 44 mm Breitlight case keeps weight low while housing a thermo‑compensated SuperQuartz movement for high accuracy. A red seconds hand and legible chronograph counters emphasize timing utility, with luminous hands and 100 m water resistance for daily versatility. It blends team pride with practical sport features.
Glashütte Original
Introducing: Glashütte Original Collaborates With Europe’s Oldest Porcelain Manufacturer Meissen For A Trio Of Hand‑Painted Porcelain Dials
Three limited editions unite watchmaking and porcelain artistry with hand‑painted Meissen dials in 40 mm red gold cases. Each is powered by the automatic Caliber 36‑16 with a 100‑hour power reserve, and presented on alligator straps. Two Mystic Maison designs are limited to 150 pieces each, while the Collage dial is a unique series of eight. Pricing starts at $30,300, rising to $36,400 for the Collage model.
Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Meissen Porcelain Limited Editions Read More >
Hublot
Hublot MP‑17 Meca‑10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire
Limited to 99 pieces, this fluid, organic 42 mm titanium design captures the motion of water with a skeletonized dial glowing in Arsham Green Super‑LumiNova. The in‑house, hand‑wound HUB1205 delivers a 240‑hour power reserve for extended wear. Water resistance is rated to 50 meters, and the watch is paired with a textured black rubber strap. Priced at 69,000 euros, it’s available exclusively through Hublot boutiques and authorized retailers.
Oris
Oris x Cervo Volante: Ready for Fall Colors with the Big Crown Pointer Date
This autumn‑ready Big Crown Pointer Date features a 40 mm stainless steel case and a burnt maple gradient dial for warmth and clarity. Powered by the Oris Caliber 754, it offers Super‑LumiNova hands and markers plus quick‑change deer leather straps. The collaboration highlights sustainability by upcycling high‑quality deer skins that would otherwise be discarded. Priced at CHF 2,250, it includes a matching pouch and strap options.
Seiko
Seiko’s Slick New GMT Dive Watch Is a Deep Sea Masterpiece | Gear Patrol
The Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT “Seashadow” is a 42 mm, 300 m tool watch limited to 500 pieces, with a stealthy black and gilt aesthetic. It’s powered by the automatic 6R54 and features a subtly integrated GMT hand for travel timing. A glossy black dial with luminous hands and markers ensures deep‑water legibility. This boutique‑only edition is priced at £1,600 and sold exclusively at Seiko’s Bond Street Boutique in London.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Cartier
Hands-On: The New Full-Titanium Santos de Cartier, and A Black Luminous Steel Model
Cartier advances the Santos line with its first full‑titanium execution, shedding weight and adding a modern, industrial edge. A steel alternative keeps the collection’s classic feel while introducing a striking black luminous dial for sporty legibility. Both maintain the signature Santos dimensions and quick‑change practicality. Pricing is EUR 11,400 for titanium and EUR 9,000 for steel.
Christopher Ward
Hands-On With The Ultra-Slim Christopher Ward Twelve 660
The Twelve 660 distills integrated‑bracelet sport watch design into an ultra‑thin, 38 mm profile just 6.6 mm thick. A manual‑winding Sellita SW210‑1 keeps the case svelte while preserving daily practicality. Refined bracelet work and multiple dial options bring versatility without losing the minimalist aesthetic. Despite manual winding, comfort, presence, and design clarity make a compelling case.
Echo/Neutra
This Affordable Automatic Chronograph Is Extra Tough Thanks to Some Clever Engineering
The Averau 42 Ceramic Chrono pairs a Grade 2 titanium inner case with a black ceramic outer shell for strength and scratch resistance. Its black dial with crisp white markings and red accents stays legible, while the automatic Sellita SW510B powers a robust chronograph. At $1,970, it punches above its weight among sub‑$2,000 automatics. The unique TiFrame construction helps it stand out from the crowded field.
Hublot
Hands-On Debut: Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire Watch
Limited to 99 pieces, the MP‑17’s organic form challenges traditional case geometry and turns the dial into kinetic art. Microblasted titanium and laser‑textured sapphire create a distinctive 42 mm, 15.35 mm‑thick presence. Inside, the HUB1205 delivers a 240‑hour power reserve that underscores the concept’s engineering depth. Priced at $69,000, it is as much an art object as it is a timekeeper.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
Breaking from its chronograph roots, TAG Heuer introduces a moonphase‑centric Carrera with a rotating disc that displays seven phases. The new Calibre 7 automatic provides 50 hours of reserve across one standard model and two limited editions. Legibility and precision echo the Carrera’s DNA, while the lunar complication adds poetic utility. It’s an elegant pivot that broadens the line without losing coherence.
Timex
Watch Review: Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic
This 44 mm diver packs a ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and 200 m water resistance around a Miyota 8215 automatic. Luminous markers and hands, a matte dial, and a date magnifier emphasize daily usability. Practical touches like a rotation reminder on the crown make it approachable for newcomers and enthusiasts alike. At roughly $399, it offers strong value against established entry‑level rivals.
Vario x RZE
RZE and Vario Team Up to Create the UltraHex Titanium Trench
Limited to 100 pieces, the 37 mm UltraHex Titanium Trench blends vintage cues with hardened titanium for everyday toughness. A forged carbon dial infused with lume elevates low‑light legibility and texture. The automatic Miyota 82S5 adds reliability, while 100 m water resistance keeps it versatile. Priced at $499 with worldwide shipping, it lands as a thoughtful, modern field watch collab.
Watching Time
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Last night’s result: The 2024 Ressence Type 3B Eucalyptus 44MM Green Dial Textile Strap (Type 3 EE Eucalyptus) was bid to $26,000 but did not meet the reserve.] See it HERE
2024 Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Star Wheel 41MM Aventurine Dial Textile Strap (15212NB.OO.A002KB.01)
Auction Report: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel — Aventurine Satellites
Here’s a fresh, full-set take on Audemars Piguet’s most poetic modern complication. The Code 11.59 Starwheel (ref. 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01) marries a 41mm black-ceramic mid-case to 18k white-gold bezel, lugs, and caseback, framing a starry aventurine dial where three rotating hour satellites sweep a 120-degree minute arc. This example is represented in very good condition and includes inner/outer boxes, papers, and an AP e-warranty activated in 2024—valid through 2029 under the brand’s 2-year warranty plus 3-year extension policy. It’s delivered on the original textile-style strap with a pin buckle. Auction closes Saturday, October 11, 2025 at 7:49 p.m. ET.
Mechanically, the Starwheel revival runs the in-house automatic calibre 4310 (70-hour reserve), a wandering-hours module atop AP’s 4309 base, beating at 4 Hz and visible through the display back. The Code 11.59 architecture keeps the proportions wearable and modern; water resistance is rated to 30 meters. Legibility is superb—the current hour rides the minute arc up top—while aventurine’s sparkle keeps the dial from feeling austere.
The lineage matters here. Wandering hours were devised in the 17th century and later adapted by AP into the first modern wrist-watch Star Wheel in 1991 (ref. 25720). The 2022 Code 11.59 Starwheel resurrects that history with a thoroughly contemporary case and dial execution—heritage with a clean break from the Royal Oak’s visual grammar.
What it’s worth: launch pricing landed around $57,900, and current secondary data shows typical trading in the mid-$50Ks, with dealer asks spanning roughly the high-$50Ks to mid-$70Ks depending on set and freshness. Recent marketplace snapshots show listings from about $59.5k to the low-to-mid-$70Ks for full-set 2023–2025 pieces. In short, a boxed 2024 example with active warranty sits right in the fat part of the curve.
How to play it: if this closes in the high-$50Ks to low-$60Ks, you’re buying at or below fair market with five years of manufacturer coverage still in force—compelling for a complication piece. Once bidding pushes into the upper-$60Ks and beyond, you’re brushing dealer-retail territory; weigh that against the immediate-delivery listings and your desire for this specific configuration and provenance.
Bottom line: a starry, story-rich AP that reads at a glance and wears daily. With the active e-warranty to 2029 and a complete kit, this one checks the right boxes—now it’s about where the hammer lands on Saturday night. See it Now on Grailzee >
Currently bid to $35,800