BuyingTime Daily - November 7, 2025
Timex buys Daniel Wellington, Universal Genève revives Nina Rindt’s legacy, and a rose gold Royal Oak hits auction—today’s watch world is firing on all cylinders.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – November 7, 2025
Timex just made its biggest fashion flex in years, acquiring a majority stake in Daniel Wellington, the minimalist Scandi brand that became an Instagram-era staple. The Swedish label will stay based in Stockholm but will tap into Timex’s distribution muscle and tech resources. Founder Filip Tysander is calling it a “perfect match,” while industry insiders wonder if a resurgence in fashion quartz is even possible in the smartwatch era.
In retail news, Watches of Switzerland keeps racking up wins, posting £845 million in first-half sales, a 10% jump thanks to a 20% boom in the U.S. market. UK sales barely budged at 2%, but new showrooms and strong jewelry growth have management confident in hitting £1.8 billion for the full year. The market responded with a 6% pop in shares, proving Rolex and friends still have plenty of shine left in the case.
Back in the atelier, the deep-dive feature on mainsprings might make you rethink your understanding of torque. Turns out balancing length, thickness, and coil tension inside a watch barrel is as much art as science, with brands constantly optimizing for power reserve versus torque. If you’ve ever wondered why one watch ticks for 72 hours while another quits in 40, this is your rabbit hole.
One of the most poetic releases of the week: Universal Genève reappears with a six-watch tribute to the Nina Rindt-era Compax, executed in grand feu enamel, vintage movements, and dreamy Bund straps by Satoru Hosai. At USD$167,326 for the set, it’s not for the faint of wallet—but the artistry, rarity, and charitable angle (proceeds support Geneva watchmaking apprenticeships) make it a grail worthy return.
On the other end of the spectrum, we saw an explosion of accessible creativity. Awake dropped its Sơn Mài Fragments trio—lacquered dials made with mother-of-pearl shards in mesmerizing green, blue, and pink—each limited to 100 pieces and priced at EUR 2,250. Bausele, Australia’s answer to the dive watch, crowd-sourced its new Elemental design and hit the sweet spot at $750. Meanwhile, Studio Underd0g is back with a cheeky collab with Massena LAB called Champagne & Caviar, which is either a parody of fine living or a cult classic in the making.
Citizen revealed the Rainell series for women, with Eco-Drive tech and dial textures meant to mimic raindrops. Hamilton continues the IP collab craze with its Call of Duty limited edition—5,000 units of military-themed wrist cred for gamers. Seiko revived its italicized “Alpinist” script to mark 30 years of field watch fidelity, while Hanhart smoothed the bezel and added flyback functionality in a rare mocha-dial 417.
In reviews, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in pink gold is a flex of engineering and aesthetics, now with double the power reserve. Bovet brought its worldtimer into wearable territory, while Christopher Ward’s Jump Hour Mk V blends vintage cues with proprietary innovation. For design fans, the Monovant Rheon and Straum x TRTS Jan Mayen added texture, stone dials, and Arctic flair to the mix.
Lastly, tonight’s auction spotlight lands on a rose gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm (ref. 15400OR) with black “Tapisserie” dial and matching gold bracelet. Described as “like new,” it lacks papers but includes boxes and booklet. With recent market prices climbing toward $70K for full sets, this listing offers strategic entry potential—especially for those betting on gold Royal Oaks maintaining their cult status. Auction ends at 9:14 pm ET. If your paddling hand is twitching, now’s the time.
News Time
Timex Group acquires Scandi watch brand Daniel Wellington
Timex Group has taken a majority stake in Daniel Wellington, the Swedish brand known for minimalist, Scandi-style watches. Daniel Wellington will remain independently run from Stockholm while collaborating with Timex on innovation and expanded distribution. Founder Filip Tysander praised Timex’s craftsmanship and said the partnership positions the brand to reach its full potential. The move comes as fashion quartz watches face pressure from smartwatches and intensified competition, while Timex’s broad portfolio supports future growth.
Watches of Switzerland sales rise 10% in H1 to £845 million
Watches of Switzerland Group reported first-half sales of £845 million, up 10% year over year, driven by 20% growth in the United States that offset a modest 2% rise in the UK. CEO Brian Duffy highlighted broad-based US brand momentum and a stable UK retail environment, alongside new openings such as an AP House and the reopening of the Newcastle showroom. Profit margins dipped slightly, but EBIT aligned with expectations and shares rose 6% after the update. The company expects full-year sales of £1.75–£1.8 billion, supported by a growing jewelry segment and rising traction in certified pre-owned, especially Rolex CPO.
Feature Time
In-depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel
This piece explores how mainspring length, thickness, and number of turns interact inside a finite barrel to influence torque and power reserve. A thicker spring boosts stiffness and torque but slightly reduces runtime, while a longer, thinner spring can extend power reserve at the expense of torque. The analysis emphasizes real-world constraints like coil arrangement and material properties, which can shift outcomes from theoretical models. Watchmakers continue to iterate for an optimal balance tailored to each movement’s goals.
Introducing: The Universal Genève Tribute to Compax – Inspired By Nina Rindt And Powered By Vintage Movements
Universal Genève unveils six chronographs honoring the Nina Rindt–era Compax, faithful to the classic 36mm profile in 18k white or rose gold. The grand feu enamel dials and restored caliber 281 deliver period-correct character with a 36-hour reserve. Bespoke Bund straps by Satoru Hosai underscore the artisanal focus and limited nature of the release. Offered in two sets at CHF 135,000, it signals a thoughtful prelude to the brand’s 2026 revival.
Nina Rindt and the Return of Universal Genève
Nina Rindt’s legacy with the Universal Genève Compax returns to the fore as she contributes to a modern tribute collection. The 36mm timepieces in 18k white or red gold house the hand-wound Calibre 281 and feature finely executed grand feu enamel dials. Limited to two sets of three, the watches come on Bund straps by Satoru Hosoi to blend elegance with motorsport heritage. Proceeds support apprenticeships at the Geneva Watchmaking School as the brand prepares a 2026 relaunch.
The Best Blue Watches We’ve Ever Reviewed (That Don’t Suck)
A curated lineup of blue-dial watches spans affordable to luxury, focusing on real-world wearability, design, and functionality. Highlights include the Orient Mako II for value and performance, and the Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Diver for legibility and solar reliability. The Casio Oceanus offers a refined tech-forward hybrid, while the Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor blends vintage cues with modern execution. The guide helps match diverse tastes and budgets without sacrificing quality.
Time for change for Rolex and other cookie cutter stores
Uniform watch boutiques risk blending into the background as luxury consumers crave distinctive, location-driven experiences. Jewelry houses like Cartier and Bulgari set the bar with immersive flagships that tell compelling brand stories. As post-boom demand normalizes, watch brands must evolve their showrooms to foster deeper emotional connections. Without this shift, even storied names could lose attention to more evocative retail environments.
Uncommon Objects: Rediscovering Rolex’s Discontinued Collections
Beyond icons like the Datejust and Submariner, Rolex’s lesser-known lines offer rarity and distinctiveness. The Prince served medical professionals with Art Deco elegance, while the Milgauss targeted scientists with anti-magnetism. Cellini King Midas and Orchid reveal a luxurious, design-led side of the brand, and the playful Chameleon enabled strap-based customization. These overlooked models trace a rich design lineage that broadens Rolex’s collector appeal.
The Latest Time
Awake
Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors
Awake blends Japanese Raden, Vietnamese lacquer artistry, and Swiss watchmaking in three limited colorways: Green, Blue, and Pink. Each 39mm recycled steel watch uses hand-laid mother-of-pearl fragments beneath natural lacquer, creating liquid-like depth with nearly 15 hours of dial work. Powered by the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement, they pair vibrant dials with handmade leather straps and a unique lumed layer under the hands and indexes. Limited to 100 pieces per color, they’re positioned to sell out quickly thanks to their distinctive craft-forward design.
Introducing: The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions - Read More >
Bausele
Introducing The Bausele Elemental Collection, An Australian-Built Diver Designed Through Community Collaboration
Developed with input from 400+ community members, the Elemental is a 40mm automatic diver that merges Swiss mechanics with an Australian design language. Its layered dial evokes the ocean floor, while the dual-scale bezel and 200-meter water resistance emphasize practical utility. More than a spec sheet, the watch tells a story about place and participation, standing out in the sub-$1,000 segment. Priced at USD $750, it delivers quality, narrative, and value for enthusiasts.
Citizen
Citizen Unveils L Rainell series of watches for women
The Rainell series reinterprets raindrop beauty with a sculptural 26.2 x 35.3mm case and shimmering, rainfall-inspired dials. Each piece features a sparkling three-row bracelet and finishes ranging from stainless steel to gold tone, while using recycled materials in line with Citizen’s sustainability goals. Powered by Eco-Drive, the watches run up to six months on a full charge and carry 50 meters of water resistance. Priced at $525–$575, they balance artistry, performance, and purpose.
Hamilton
Special operation on the wrist
Hamilton’s Khaki Field Auto 38 mm Special Edition Call of Duty channels the game’s military aesthetic with a 38mm steel case, luminous black dial, and khaki NATO strap. The H-10 automatic movement provides an 80-hour power reserve, and the caseback bears an exclusive Black Ops 7 insignia engraving. Limited to 5,000 pieces, it targets collectors at the intersection of gaming and watch culture. The launch is slated for November 14, amplifying anticipation among fans.
Hanhart
Introducing: A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date
Hanhart’s 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date updates a historic chronograph with a smooth polished bezel and mocha-brown dial. The 42mm steel case keeps the red HyCeram pusher and 100-meter water resistance, while Super-LumiNova X2 C1 ensures legibility. Powered by the Sellita AMT5100 M, it adds a flyback function and 58-hour reserve, offered on calfskin or steel bracelet. Limited to 200 pieces, it’s priced at EUR 2,690 (strap) or EUR 2,890 (bracelet).
Horologically Unique
Introducing: The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96
The HU-01 distills Calatrava 96 elegance into a 36mm, 9.1mm-thick package with the hand-wound Peseux ETA 7001. Available in glossy black or vintage white with Breguet numerals and leaf hands, it marries timeless cues with modern simplicity. Each edition is limited to 100 pieces, with pre-orders open through November 2025 for March–April 2026 delivery. Priced at SGD 1,800 (about EUR 1,200), it ships on an 18mm grained black leather strap.
Seiko
It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist
Marking the Alpinist’s 30th anniversary, Seiko improves power reserve and adds Diashield case coating while reviving the italic “Alpinist” script. The 39.5mm design wears slim and comfortable, and the cal. 6R55 now delivers up to 72 hours of autonomy. Alongside core models, an icy white limited edition debuts in select regions. Though prices rise slightly, the Alpinist remains a robust, stylish field watch with enduring appeal.
Studio Underd0g
Introducing: Studio Underd0g And Massena LAB Team Up For A Champagne And Caviar Chronograph
The 03Series Champagne & Caviar leans into playful luxury with a metallic sunray dial, champagne-toned center, and a caviar-tin subdial motif. A 38.5mm steel case houses a customized Sellita SW510M with a 63-hour reserve, paired to a calfskin strap. Limited to 200 pieces with a November 11 release, it’s priced at $2,200. The design’s cheeky theme won’t suit everyone, but collectors will appreciate its originality and execution.
Another Studio Underd0g Limited Edition Sees the 03SERIES Getting a Taste of the Good Life (Courtesy of Massena LAB) - Read More >
Universal Genève
Introducing: The Universal Genève Tribute to Compax – Inspired By Nina Rindt And Powered By Vintage Movements
Universal Genève revives a 1960s icon with six chronographs faithful to the 36mm originals in 18k white or rose gold. Grand feu enamel dials, restored caliber 281 movements, and Bund straps by Satoru Hosai reflect deep respect for heritage. Limited to two sets at CHF 135,000, the project channels proceeds to apprenticeships at the Geneva Watchmaking School. It’s a high-craft bridge to the brand’s planned 2026 relaunch.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold
This Zeitwerk evolves the brand’s groundbreaking mechanical digital display by integrating a date complication and extending power reserve from 36 to 72 hours. A constant‑force escapement ensures the jump mechanism remains precise, while a printed glass date ring preserves the watch’s balanced horizontal layout. The warm pink gold case elevates the refined architecture and houses a 516‑part, hand‑finished movement with a power reserve indicator. Priced around EUR 130,000, it’s a masterclass in technical ingenuity and design elegance.
Benrus
Benrus Type 1 M1 Watch Review: A 1970s MIL-SPEC Classic Gets Upgraded
The Type 1 M1 modernizes a military classic with a champagne dial, polished and brushed casework, and a bolder 41.5 mm presence. A ceramic unidirectional bezel and 200 meters of water resistance add durability and utility to the distinctive design. Inside, a Swiss ETA 2892 automatic delivers proven reliability with a 42‑hour reserve. At $1,995 on a NATO strap, it blends authentic field‑watch DNA with contemporary flair.
Bovet
The Bovet Récital 30 brings the brand’s groundbreaking worldtimer to a smaller case
Récital 30 distills Bovet’s innovative worldtimer concept into a wearable 42 mm by 12.9 mm case in grade 5 titanium or 18k red gold. A novel roller system enables quick adjustments across 24 time zones, including non‑standard offsets such as New Delhi. The automatic movement runs for 62 hours, with production limited to 30 pieces per year to maintain exclusivity. Priced at CHF 68,000 (titanium) or CHF 96,800 (red gold), it offers a more approachable gateway to Bovet’s signature craftsmanship.
Christopher Ward
Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V
The C1 Jump Hour Mk V revives the brand’s signature complication with a proprietary JJ01 movement and a layered dial that celebrates the jumping hour. Christopher Ward’s Lightcatcher case and dial options in Noon Blue or Dusk Gold add modern character to a historically inspired display. On leather or a five‑link bracelet, it balances everyday wearability with technical charm. Priced at $2,975 on leather and $3,165 on bracelet, it’s a compelling entry into the brand’s higher‑end lineup.
Hands-On Debut: Christopher Ward Brings Back The JJ01 With The C1 Jump Hour Mk V - Read More >
Hublot
Insider: Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire. Hands-On Review
Created with artist Daniel Arsham, this 42 mm piece showcases Hublot’s sapphire expertise and a frosted bezel inspired by water’s kinetic splash. The skeletonized HUB1205 offers a 10‑day power reserve, emphasizing mechanical theater in a lightweight titanium‑and‑sapphire package. While visually striking, minute‑hand visibility and a narrow strap may divide opinions. At $69,000, it’s a bold, art‑driven departure from conventional Hublot fare.
Monovant
Monovant Rheon Watch Review
Rheon fuses retro‑futurist styling with a sleek 40 mm x 9.7 mm tonneau case and minimalist stone dials in Imperial Jade or Royal Lapis. Modern touches include an H‑link bracelet, a 3D‑printed watch box, and NFC‑enabled leather straps. Powered by a Sellita SW200 with a 42‑hour reserve, it’s limited to 99 pieces per configuration. Priced at €970 during pre‑order and €1,250 retail, it’s an inventive microbrand take on the rising stone‑dial trend.
Straum
Straum x TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas Watch Review
In grade 5 titanium at 39 mm, this limited collaboration pairs a sculptural case with a lacquered grey‑blue dial evoking Arctic waters. A custom integrated FKM rubber strap and polished bevels sharpen the design, while the “Light Sabre” seconds hand adds a vivid accent. The La Joux‑Perret G101 movement offers a robust 70‑hour reserve in a lightweight, comfortable package. Priced at £1,590, it delivers distinctive Scandinavian identity and everyday practicality.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Glashütte Original Seventies Panorama Chronograph Date L.E. 40MM Purple Dial Steel Bracelet (1-37-02-20-02-70) - was bid to and sold for $20,000 - $2,700 more than the list price shown on the Glashutte website.]
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41MM Black Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (15400OR.OO.1220OR.01)
Auction Report: “The Rose-Gold Revival — A Strategic Shot at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41 mm Ref. 15400OR.OO.1220OR.01”
We are facing tonight’s 9:14 pm ET close of the auction for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41 mm in 18k rose gold with black “Tapisserie” dial and matching rose‑gold bracelet (ref. 15400OR.OO.1220OR.01). The seller describes the watch as being in “like‑new” condition, and it is offered with its inner and outer boxes plus booklet—but without original papers and with the production year unspecified. Given these facts, the timepiece presents a compelling yet nuanced acquisition opportunity.
First, a bit of background. The Royal Oak line from Audemars Piguet has long been a pillar of luxury sports‑watch desirability. The “15400” family was introduced as the 41 mm iteration of the Royal Oak Selfwinding, offering greater wrist presence than the earlier 39 mm versions. This reference in rose gold is less common than the steel versions and therefore occupies a more exclusive niche. According to the market data, examples of the rose‑gold 15400 (various dial colors) have recent secondary market estimates around roughly USD 60,000 for strong condition pieces. The model in steel, by comparison, trades significantly lower — for example, the steel 15400ST black‑dial variant currently estimates around USD 30,000‑40,000.
Turning to our subject lot: the rose gold case and bracelet already places it at the luxury‑and‑premium end of the Royal Oak spectrum. The black dial and full gold bracelet combination is particularly desirable in the secondary market, since it aligns sport‑watch performance (41 mm size) with dress‑watch opulence (full gold). The inclusion of both boxes and booklet is a favorable sign; however, the lack of original papers and unknown year do create slight headwinds. Papers (warranty card or certificate) often aid in provenance and resale value, and an unspecified year can add uncertainty for the buyer.
From a value standpoint, the recent listing data shows a rose gold ref. 15400OR.OO.1220OR.01 with black dial trading in the range of USD 68,000‑75,000 (for full‑sets, certified examples) according to Chrono24. On another variant (white/other dials) the market estimate was about USD 60,000 as of early 2025. In context then, a “like‑new” specimen without papers but with boxes/booklet could justify a strong bid in the USD 50,000‑65,000 zone depending on condition, service history, etc. From a portfolio‑perspective, this is a best‑in‑class opportunity for strategic acquisition given desirability, gold metal premium, and relative rarity—provided the buyer is comfortable with the missing papers risk and can verify condition carefully (bracelet links, scratches, movement service history).
Historically, the Royal Oak line has seen increasing collector interest, especially for full gold variants. One commentary observed that by 2021 the 15400ST (steel variant) had already climbed from “mid‑$30K” levels to “no less than mid‑$40K” for full sets in very good condition. That trend of gold models outpacing steel is consistent with the typical luxury metal premium (rose gold vs steel) and integrated bracelet mindset of collectors. The discontinuation of the reference (Audemars Piguet moved on from 15400 to newer calibres) adds to the secondary market impetus.
Operationally, for the potential buyer of this lot I would recommend verifying whether the bracelet is full rose‑gold (no aftermarket links or replacement parts), checking for polished surfaces (excess polishing diminishes value), establishing if the movement calibre (3120) has been serviced, and verifying that the boxes/booklet are original to the piece (matching reference number). Because no papers are included, it could be prudent to factor a discount compared to an identical piece with full set and papers. On the flip side, the “like‑new” condition claim suggests minimal wear; if true, that preserves value. It’s worth also checking for any accessories or warranty history, and the relative number of links remaining (bracelet in full length is preferable).
In summary: the auction ending tonight at 9:14 pm presents a rare chance to secure a top‑tier gold version of the Royal Oak at a potentially favourable entry point. If condition is truly “like new” and the purchaser accepts the missing‑papers caveat, this lot can represent strong value retention and future upside. In competition bidding, I would suggest placing a ceiling bid in the USD 60,000‑65,000 range (or equivalent) if the market feels heated, but willingness to stop around USD 50,000 might provide margin given the missing papers. The watch is in the sweet spot of high luxury sport‑watch appeal, gold metal premium, integrated bracelet design legacy, and secondary market strength.
Current bid: $40,000