BuyingTime Daily - November 6, 2025
Swiss tariffs, Bon Jovi’s watches, Vegas watch fair revamp, Grand Seiko’s Snowdrop & a purple-dial Glashütte at auction—today’s watch world is in full tick.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – November 6, 2025
It’s not every day that Rolex and Richemont sit down with a U.S. President, but that’s exactly what happened at the White House as Jean-Frédéric Dufour and Johann Rupert met with the US President to discuss the growing tariff headache—currently pegged at a whopping 39% on Swiss watches. Despite a dramatic September drop, the U.S. remains the top Swiss watch market YTD. Meanwhile, on the trade show circuit, the Las Vegas Jewelry Shows are beefing up their horological footprint for 2026 with expanded offerings and dedicated platforms like “Timepieces at Luxury” and a Couture-Time to Watches partnership, aiming to rekindle the stateside retail flame.
Back in New York, Windup Watch Fair celebrated a decade of disrupting the industry playbook with 140 brands, 11,000 attendees, and panels that bridged heritage and indie design. Notable releases included Christopher Ward’sBrooklynite and a limited edition Bulova Snorkel. In Texas, Korman Fine Jewelry’s new Rolex-anchored showroom, The Jewel House, takes the hospitality concept seriously—cocktails, snacks, lounges, and a Rolex service center all under one (very glamorous) roof.
In collection gossip, Jon Bon Jovi’s watch box gets the spotlight with pieces ranging from Cartier to TW Steel and a bespoke Jacquet Droz tourbillon—rockstar vibes, horological heart. Elsewhere, Aera and Trilobe show that British and French independents are punching well above their weight: Aera with toolish minimalism, Trilobe with Parisian vertical integration and the new X-Nihilo movement. Marathon gets a retrospective too, with its military-issue SARs now gaining cult civilian appeal.
Marketwise, A Collected Man is having a stellar year, up 73% in sales by focusing on ultra-rare grails for American clients—even as tariffs loom. And in the auction world, Phillips is fanning collector flames with a rare steel Patek Philippe 1518—a grail among grails, with eight-figure potential. Meanwhile, AI has entered the watch lab, helping shape new designs while raising questions of soul versus software.
On the product front, BA111OD, Circula, and Elka all launched compelling new editions—think fluted bezels, skin-diver tributes, and monochrome minimalism. Franck Muller went full spectacle with the diamond-drenched Round Triple Mystery, while Grand Seiko introduced two elegant GMTs—Snowdrop and Moondrop—that reinterpret the classic SBGM221 with seasonal flair. Hamilton flexed future-forward with the Ventura Edge Skeleton, and Panerai added Chinese numerals to its Radiomir 8 Giorni for the Lunar New Year.
For the purists, Ferdinand Berthoud’s hand-made Naissance d’une Montre 3 (yes, handmade) offers over 11,000 hours of labor and COSC certification—a 7-figure masterpiece. Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Auto Horizon and Ressence’s Type 3 BB2 both pushed design language forward in more understated ways. Seiko dipped into ‘80s nostalgia with its Power Design Project, and Tutima rolled out titanium Patria dress watches that prove German Glashütte isn’t all business suits and Bauhaus minimalism.
On the auction floor, the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (Ref. 1‑37‑02‑20‑02‑70) with its electric purple dial and full set is heating up. Listed as “new condition” with papers dated August 2025, it’s part of a 100-piece limited edition and currently bid at just $720. A steal? Maybe—for now. Full auction report in today’s BuyingTime at Auction section.
News Time
Rolex and Richemont meet President Trump in the White House
President Trump met Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour and Richemont chairman Johann Rupert to discuss trade issues amid a 39% U.S. tariff on Swiss watches. The meeting emphasized strong private-sector ties and set plans for further talks between the U.S. trade representative and Swiss leaders. Despite a 55.6% drop in Swiss watch sales to the U.S. in September, year-to-date exports to the U.S. remain up 10.4%. The U.S. continues to be the largest market for Swiss watches by a wide margin.
Las Vegas Jewelry Shows Just Got Better For Watch Debuts
Las Vegas will expand dedicated watch exhibition space at the Couture, JCK, and Luxury shows for May/June 2026, signaling a resurgence of American watch fairs. Couture is partnering with Time to Watches to bring a curated mix of independent brands, underscoring the connection between watches and jewelry. JCK and Luxury will introduce “Timepieces at Luxury,” focusing on retail-forward brands and improving visibility and engagement for the industry. The initiative aims to reconnect retailers with brands and revitalize the U.S. watch landscape.
Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Recap: Ten Years In and Still Breaking the Mold
Windup’s tenth anniversary drew over 11,000 attendees and featured 140 brands from 17 countries, cementing its role as a community-first watch event. The fair balanced independents and heritage makers, with notable launches like Christopher Ward’s The Brooklynite and Bulova’s Snorkel Windup NYC Limited Edition. Panels highlighted the evolution of independent watchmaking and included appearances from industry figures like G-SHOCK’s Kikuo Ibe. The event reinforced a culture that breaks barriers between brands and collectors.
Rolex anchors another spectacular new showroom in Texas
Korman Fine Jewelry opened The Jewel House in Austin, a roughly 11,000 sq ft flagship anchored by Rolex and featuring brands like Omega, Tudor, and Breitling. Designed with a hospitality-forward approach, the store includes intimate lounges, a bar with signature cocktails, and locally sourced snacks. It also houses an accredited Rolex Service Center staffed by master watchmakers and a De Beers-partnered bridal salon. The space aims to create a relaxed, non-transactional environment for discovering fine timepieces and jewelry.
Feature Time
Inside Jon Bon Jovi’s Watch Collection
Jon Bon Jovi’s collection reflects a personal, eclectic taste shaped by decades on stage, mixing high horology with approachable pieces. Highlights include the Jacquet Droz Skelet Red Gold Bon Jovi anniversary tourbillon and a Cartier Roadster that balances elegance and function. He also gravitates to Franck Muller designs and the bold TW Steel Canteen, showing a blend of luxury craftsmanship and casual flair. Often hidden under a leather jacket, his watches still make a statement when they appear.
Aera Is the Independent British Watch Brand Setting a New Design Standard
Founded in 2021, Aera marries Swiss precision with a distinctly British design language across its M-1 field watches and C-1 chronographs. Meticulous engineering and comfort-first design define its understated, reasonably priced offerings. Looking ahead, Aera plans new materials, colorways, and a fifth “essential” model in 2026 while pursuing collaborations that align with its timeless, instrument-first ethos. The goal is to build enduring tools, not disposable accessories.
The French Connection: Trilobe’s Parisian Workshop
Trilobe is rebuilding Parisian industrial watchmaking, moving from a design-led startup to a vertically integrated maker under founder Gautier Massonneau and partner Volcy Bloch. Centralizing production has enabled faster feedback loops, better execution, and the brand’s first in-house movement, X-Nihilo, launched in the Trente-Deux. Producing about 400 watches annually, Trilobe is shifting toward locally made movements and expanding into horological art with ambitious clock projects. The strategy blends creativity with disciplined manufacturing to revive French watchmaking.
A History and Guide to Marathon Watches
Since a 1941 Royal Canadian Air Force order, Marathon has evolved into a key supplier for militaries and governments, building rugged watches in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Their parkerized 316L steel construction and mission-focused designs serve the U.S. Government, Canadian Armed Forces, first responders, and international clients. Recent years have brought a stronger civilian presence with divers, pilots, and general purpose models. The SAR lineage—GSAR and TSAR especially—embodies the brand’s commitment to performance in extreme conditions.
A Collected Man delivers record watch sales
A Collected Man’s sales jumped 73% to £31.3M ($40.8M) as operating profit rose nearly 500% to £897K by focusing on ultra-rare pieces and private placements. The low-volume, high-value model features trophy watches like a platinum Dufour Simplicity and a Patek Philippe 5059P. With a largely American clientele, the business navigates new Swiss-watch tariffs while operating more like an art consultant than a traditional dealer. Trust, discretion, and curation remain central to its growth.
Best Italian watch brands
Italy’s watch scene spans minimalist independent makers to jewelry-rooted maisons, showcasing rich heritage and forward design. Brands like echo/neutra and HTD emphasize clean aesthetics and small-batch builds, while Bulgari integrates haute joaillerie into serious horology. Panerai’s military origins loom large, with newer names like U-Boat and Unimatic carving distinct, utilitarian paths. Venezianico, Giuliano Mazzuoli, Gucci, and D1 Milano round out a landscape where tradition and modernity coexist vibrantly.
Top Collectors, Rivals, And Scholars Talk ‘Grail Of All Grails’ As Sale Of Extremely Rare Steel Patek Philippe 1518 Nears
Phillips is auctioning a steel Patek 1518—one of four known—renewing debate on the “grail” perpetual calendar chronograph’s market-defining status. Experts and dealers discuss its construction differences versus gold versions, historical sales, and the meticulous care required to preserve value. With the 2016 record at CHF 11M, expectations exceed CHF 8M and could influence future high-end auction dynamics. The 1518 remains both a financial benchmark and a living object demanding stewardship.
AI and Watchmaking: The Future of Design, Creativity, and Authenticity
AI is increasingly shaping design and engineering in horology, promising novel solutions while raising concerns about homogenization and authenticity. A G-SHOCK partially designed with AI illustrates potential benefits when human creativity guides the tech. Skeptics worry brands may lean on data-driven safety over bold ideas, but AI could also unlock hyper-accurate mechanics and solve persistent technical challenges. For enthusiasts, everyday AI tools already add value—like quick watch identification from images.
Reading Time at HSNY: You Don’t Need a Weatherman
The Horological Society of New York’s collection highlights the deep links between timekeeping and meteorology through historic barometers, thermometers, hygrometers, and hybrid instruments. Archival letters from the Henry J. Green Company map 19th-century trade networks and the evolution from mercury to aneroid barometers. Cultural artifacts like weather vanes reinforce how measurement tools permeated daily life and art. The piece closes on a playful note tying craftsmanship to creativity—even in the kitchen.
The Latest Time
BA111OD
BA111OD reinvents Chapter 6 with sleek five-link steel
BA111OD expands its Chapter 6 line with new stainless steel bracelets and a two-tone option featuring either a fluted bezel or a lab-grown diamond-set bezel. The collection includes luminous two-tone models, a starry-sky aventurine dial, and a 2N PVD gold-case edition, all showcasing a semi-open dial over the Swiss SOPROD P024 Skeleton automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Crafted in-house in Neuchâtel, the watches feature sapphire crystals with double AR, transparent casebacks, and 3 ATM water resistance. Five-link 316L bracelets and an easy strap exchange system add everyday versatility, with prices from CHF 795 (ridged bezel) to CHF 1,395 (diamond-set).
Circula
Circula Celebrates 70 Years with a Tribute to the Skin Diver
Marking its 70th anniversary, Circula revives the AquaSport II Original Limited Edition, channeling 1970s skin-diver spirit with a faithful dial layout and a blue tone aged toward violet. Legibility and function are paramount, with bold markers, Super-LumiNova, and a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings. A cushion-shaped stainless steel case adds vintage charm and durability, while a reliable Swiss automatic movement and a unidirectional sapphire bezel modernize performance. Interchangeable straps and pricing from 940 euros make this limited edition a compelling enthusiast piece.
Elka
Introducing: Elka Watch Co. Celebrates B&W with Its Latest S Series Monochrome Editions
Elka teams with photographer Christian Coigny on limited Black and White S Series Monochrome Editions that celebrate the purity of monochrome design. Offered in 40.8mm and 36mm, each stainless-steel watch features a domed sapphire, minimalist dial without markers, and polished hands, powered by the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic with a 68-hour reserve. Limited to 100 pieces per model, they are available for pre-sale at Espace Diorama in Geneva from November 4 to December 10, 2025. Priced at CHF 1,855, the collection pairs analogue artistry with precise watchmaking in a refined, minimal package.
Franck Muller
New with impressions and hands on: Franck Muller Round Triple Mystery
The Round Triple Mystery evolves Franck Muller’s disc-based time display with three rotating discs for hours, minutes, and seconds in a mesmerizing kinetic dial. Offered in 18k rose or white gold at 39mm, the watch dazzles with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds—237 on the dial alone—priced at SGD 138,300 and SGD 240,100. Inside, the automatic MVD 2800-TMY provides a 42-hour reserve, showcasing technical finesse behind the spectacle. Opulent yet cleverly engineered, it’s a statement piece that marries creativity with haute horlogerie.
Grand Seiko
First Look: The new Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop
Grand Seiko revisits the beloved SBGM221 template with two textured-dial variants, the SBGM255 “Snowdrop” and SBGM257 “Moondrop,” each in a 39.5mm polished steel case. The Snowdrop pairs a crisp white dial and blue accents, while the Moondrop brings a deep navy dial with gold details; both use the in-house Calibre 9S66 true GMT movement. Priced at EUR 5,200 and slated for December 2025 release, they maintain the elegance and proportions that made the original a classic. Crocodile straps and refined finishing complete their casual-meets-formal appeal.
Grand Seiko’s Legendary Entry-Level Automatic GMT Just Got Some Company - Read More >
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 — New Dials For The Dressy GMT - Read More >
Hamilton
The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton
Hamilton’s Ventura Edge Skeleton pushes the iconic silhouette forward with an asymmetrical 51mm x 47mm case in sandblasted steel or black PVD. A gradient sapphire protects the openworked dial, while the skeletonized H-10-S automatic delivers an 80-hour reserve visible through the back. Bold geometry, a black rubber strap, and assertive finishing create a striking, futuristic profile. Pricing is CHF 1,575 in steel and CHF 1,675 in black PVD.
Panerai
An Iconic Military Watch Gets a Fascinating, Never-Before-Seen Dial Update
The Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 debuts rare Chinese numeral hour markers in a Lunar New Year tribute, limited to 300 pieces. Its 45mm Brutino steel case houses the hand-wound P.5000 with an eight-day reserve, echoing the reference 3646’s military roots with faux-vintage finishes and blued hands. A domed sapphire, sterile dial with railroad minute track, and brown leather strap round out the design with 100m water resistance. Launching in late November for China and broader Asia, wider global release follows in January.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Ferdinand Berthoud
Hands-On: Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3: A Return To How Watchmaking Used To Be Done
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is a fully handmade, 11-piece limited edition that revives endangered traditional techniques while advancing haute horlogerie. It features a fusée-and-chain mechanism delivering constant force and a 50-hour power reserve, with exceptional finishing aligned to Ferdinand Berthoud’s design ethos. Notably, it is the first fully handmade watch to pass COSC certification, and each piece requires roughly 11,000 hours to complete by a dedicated Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard team. Priced above $1,060,000, it blends historical significance with contemporary excellence for the most discerning collectors.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon
The Classic Auto Horizon showcases Laurent Ferrier’s devotion to line, shape, and texture, powered by the LF 270.01 with a platinum micro-rotor. Its translucent blue lacquer dial evokes the horizon, pairing elegant white gold markers with a small seconds and date inspired by the brand’s motorsport roots. A polished 40 mm steel case and hand-stitched taupe goat leather strap highlight refined craftsmanship, while the sapphire back reveals the caliber’s celebrated finishing. With a 72-hour reserve and a 45,000 CHF price, it signals a thoughtful evolution of Ferrier’s design language.
Patek Philippe
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel
The stainless steel Ref. 1518—one of only four known—was the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph and remains a cornerstone of watch history. Despite its modest 35 mm size, its rarity and pedigree have propelled it into the auction stratosphere, with past results approaching CHF 11 million and current estimates above CHF 8 million. The movement mirrors its gold counterparts, while the dial and hands exemplify meticulous craftsmanship. Heading to auction in November 2025, it epitomizes the intersection of heritage, scarcity, and market-defining value.
Ressence
Hands-On: Deciphering The Oil-Filled Ressence Type 3 BB2
The Type 3 BB2 advances independent watchmaking with an oil-filled upper chamber for crystal-clear legibility and a crownless interface using magnetic transmission. Its domed display reads like a digital screen yet remains fully mechanical, showing time, date, day, and oil temperature with distortion-free clarity. The novel construction and interaction captivate on the wrist, drawing attention to its inventive engineering. Retailing at EUR 50,600 and produced in low quantities, it rewards patience with a uniquely engaging horological experience.
Seiko
Seiko Revisits Its Past to Move Fashionably Forward with the New Power Design Project Collection 1
Seiko’s Power Design Project Collection 1 mines the brand’s archives—especially 1984’s Tissé—to craft modern interpretations with fresh materials and tech. A compact 20.2 mm case houses the Caliber 4N30 quartz movement, while a reimagined bracelet of flattened, beveled links creates a distinctive, asymmetrical flow. Limited to 500 pieces per variant, the line launches in stainless silver-tone, dark grey, and gold-tone. Prices start at €405 (silver-tone) and €450 (dark grey, gold-tone), with deliveries beginning in December 2025.
Tutima
Hands-On: Tutima Goes Titanium With Its Patria 6612 Watches
Tutima’s Patria 6612 refresh focuses on wearability and clarity, reducing the case to 41 mm and crafting it in polished grade 5 titanium. Water-resistant to 50 m, it comes in silver-white, graphite gray, and anthracite, with a refined dial featuring stick markers and classic hands. Inside is the in-house caliber 617, a manually wound 3 Hz movement with a 65-hour reserve and traditional German architecture. Priced at €8,600, the collection represents a pragmatic pivot toward practical elegance while honoring Glashütte heritage.
Watching Time
Patek Philippe 1518 Stainless Steel – Collectors’ Holy Grail
Deciphering The Unconventional Ressence Type 3 BB2
Teddy Baldassarres’ visit to Breitling: What they didn’t say
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron - All In
The Worn & Wound Podcast Ep. 423: Is the Watch Industry Out of Ideas?
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2015 Breguet Tradition 40MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (7057BR/G9/9W6)- was bid to $12,900 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Glashütte Original Seventies Panorama Chronograph Date L.E. 40MM Purple Dial Steel Bracelet (1-37-02-20-02-70)
Auction Report: Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date 1‑37‑02‑20‑02‑70 (40 mm Purple “Plasma” Dial, Steel Bracelet)
Today we present the auction listing of the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (Ref. 1‑37‑02‑20‑02‑70), a highly limited‑edition timepiece offered in “new condition” by the seller. The piece is reported to have been resized with all removed links retained, and comes complete with inner and outer boxes, full papers dated August 22, 2025, and is part of the 100‑piece worldwide run. The auction is scheduled to end at 7:52 pm EST on Thursday, November 6, 2025.
From a historical and value‑perspective, this model merits close attention. Glashütte Original launched this special edition under its Seventies collection, combining vintage design cues—most notably the 40 × 40 mm cushion‑shaped steel case with softly rounded corners—with modern in‑house technique. The “Plasma” purple dial is a standout: a matt‑lacquered violet finish created in‑house, described by the brand as a colour “whose hues change according to how light falls on the dial,” representing a “vision of the future in which the real and the digital world go hand in hand.” The model is powered by the manufacture Calibre 37‑02 with column‑wheel flyback chronograph, 70‑hour power reserve and a Panorama Date display — all visible through a sapphire case‑back. As a 100‑piece limitation, this reference instantly attains rarity status among collectors.
Turning to value: When new, this edition retailed at around €17,000 for the steel bracelet version according to pre‑release commentary. On the secondary market, a listing in Europe shows the model offered for €19,999 (approx. USD 23,840) in new condition. Prior variants of the Seventies Panorama Date chronograph series (e.g., non‑purple dials) show substantially lower recent market prices — for example, a reference 1‑37‑02‑03‑02‑70 showing a market price of USD 11,403 as of November 1, 2025. Given the limited quantity, the striking dial, and full set with papers, the subject piece is positioned toward the upper end of the market for this collection.
In this particular listing the seller states “new condition,” though the fact of bracelet sizing and removed links means there is one minor caveat: while the watch appears unused on the wrist, resizing technically introduces handling and the removed links emphasize transparency and completeness, which works in favour of the buyer. The inclusion of boxes, full papers dated August 22, 2025, and the full link set further enhance completeness and collectibility. From an auction perspective it’s worth noting that a full‑set, limited edition chronograph with colour exclusivity tends to attract enthusiastic bids from those who seek something beyond the standard catalogue model.
In terms of strategy for bidders: Given retail and recent listing benchmarks, a bid in the US market above USD 20,000seems justified, with the potential stretch into the low to mid‑USD 20,000s for truly excellent, full‑set condition. The one caveat is liquidity: niche limited editions by independent luxury manufacturers can carry a premium for dedicated collectors, but may also be subject to slower resale compared to more mainstream icons. The fact that this piece is fresh (papers dated August 2025) means it is early in its life cycle and may carry upside for the future collector willing to hold rather than flip quickly.
In summary, the subject Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date 1‑37‑02‑20‑02‑70 represents a compelling blend of design heritage, modern manufacture, striking dial exclusivity and limited production. Assuming the watch is genuinely unworn and the full set is intact (boxes, papers, links), it stands as a strong candidate in the auction arena. Bidders should calibrate accordingly, aiming to secure near the estimated value but mindful of the “collector‑premium” element built into limited editions.
Current bid: $720