BuyingTime Daily - November 5, 2025
Dive into today’s issue packed with rare watch auctions, showroom reveals, and standout new releases—your wrist‑worthy update from the November 5, 2025 watch universe.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing — Today’s Watch Universe
November 5, 2025
Auction season is in full swing and the horological world is heating up faster than a ceramic bezel under a spotlight. Antiquorum kicks things off with a November 8–9 sale stacked with collector bait, from an Urban Jürgensen ref. 8 and Heuer Monaco 1133 to a Rolex Submariner 5510 ‘Big Crown’ and an ultra-light Vacheron Constantin aluminum pocket watch. The estimates range from CHF 2,000 to CHF 120,000, which feels like the spread between a MoonSwatch and a Voutilainen these days. Over at Phillips, two timepieces with ties to J.P. Morgan Jr. are stirring things up—including the first-ever Cartier mystery clock from 1913. Meanwhile, Sotheby’s is throwing a Breguet birthday bash with nearly 70 lots celebrating 250 years of watchmaking genius.
Speaking of Breguet, our spotlight auction on Grailzee tonight features a stunning 2015 Tradition 7057BR/G9/9W6in rose gold, with full box and papers and a skeletonized dial that lays bare the 507DR1 caliber. With a current bid of $5,500 and market comps ranging from $14K to $30K depending on condition, this one could surprise.
On the retail side, Cartier unveiled a Miami showroom that’s part luxury temple, part architectural art piece. The façade alone might qualify as haute horology. Over at Vortic, the Military Edition returns November 11 with titanium builds powered by WWII-era pocket watch movements—because nothing says durability like something that survived a bombing run. Also, François-Paul Journe reminisced about the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the $5.5M clock that started it all, proving once again that Journe is playing chess while the rest of us are winding quartz.
Watchmakers are flexing their micro-mechanical muscles too. Jaeger-LeCoultre dropped not one but two versions of its Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, both limited to 10 pieces and dripping in pink gold and black lacquer. Louis Erard introduced the sporty new 2340 cushion-case collection, while Panerai shrank things down with a new 40 mm Luminor GMT Ceramica. TAG Heuer lit the track ablaze with a Senna-themed Formula 1 Chronograph, packing Calibre 16 and forged-carbon bezels. And Tissot just gave the PRX line its most wearable update yet with 38 mm titanium and Damascus steel variants, keeping prices sub-$1,200.
In the world of reviews, the Omega Speedmaster FOiS remains a nuanced, handsome cousin to the Moonwatch, while the Scurfa M.S.25 continues to win over divers with real specs and a sub-$400 price. Chopard’s Mille Miglia GTSRace Edition gets a fuel-gauge power reserve and serious salmon dial energy, and Seiko impressed with the Shiracha-toned Presage SPB529 and a crisp white-dial Alpinist TSG Exclusive. Meanwhile, Yema brings a shimmering mother-of-pearl treatment to its Navygraf diver—because why not look elegant at 300 meters?
Finally, in the “Don’t Sleep On It” file, Dryden’s Heartlander Solar field watch gets a solar update and a fresh rubber strap starting November 7. Think daily beater energy with just enough lume to light the way to your next auction win. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Cartier reopens stunning Miami Design District showroom
Cartier has unveiled a reimagined boutique in Miami’s Design District, pairing a sculptural glass façade by Diller Scofidio + Renfro with interiors by Laura Gonzalez. The space channels Miami’s color, light, and landscape for an immersive, sensory retail experience. Across two floors and a rooftop terrace, the boutique blends jewelry, watches, leather goods, and accessories in vivid, locally inspired settings. The design invites curiosity and underscores a lively, contemporary expression of luxury.
10 watches of note from Antiquorum’s 2025 sale
Antiquorum’s November 8–9 sale brings a tightly curated slate of collector-friendly highlights spanning icons and rarities. Standouts include the historically significant Urban Jürgensen ref. 8 with a Frederique Piguet movement and the legendary Heuer Monaco ref. 1133. Omega’s Seamaster 300 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 mark milestones in brand evolution, while an unusual Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Rectangular” and the Omega De Ville Co-Axial showcase technical shifts. Additional headliners include a Rolex Submariner ‘Big Crown’ 5510, Zenith El Primero SP 1301, a Vacheron Constantin aluminium pocket watch, and the Breitling Navitimer AOPA 806, with estimates from CHF 2,000 to CHF 120,000.
J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock
Two historically important timepieces linked to financier J. P. Morgan Jr. headline Phillips’ Geneva sale. The first-ever Cartier Model A mystery clock from 1913 features levitating hands within rock crystal and carries a CHF 300,000–600,000 estimate. A Charles Frodsham split-seconds minute repeating chronograph pocket watch, commissioned by Morgan’s firm and gifted to a young partner, embodies both technical prowess and personal legacy. Together, they illuminate the Morgan family’s deep collecting heritage and the era’s opulent craftsmanship.
Sotheby’s Marks 250 Years Of Breguet With Historic Auction
Sotheby’s honors Breguet’s 250th anniversary with the brand’s most significant dedicated sale in over three decades. Nearly 70 pieces trace more than two centuries of horological innovation, including the first Classique Souscription 2025 and works from Breguet’s lineage. Highlights range from an 1827 perpetual watch made for King George IV (300,000–800,000 CHF) to an early 18ct gold four-minute tourbillon (350,000–700,000 CHF). The auction underscores Breguet’s enduring influence and invites collectors to vie for museum-grade horology.
Feature Time
Everything You Need to Know About this Year’s Vortic Military Edition Releases
Vortic’s annual Veterans Day Military Edition returns with three options that repurpose authentic military pocket watch movements and dials, headlined by AN5740-1 pieces originally designed for the WWII Army Air Corps. This year adds watches powered by vintage Swiss movements and titanium cases that bridge historic purpose with modern durability. Ten hand-painted “Specials” with luminous dials are priced at $10,000, and five St-Imier Special Editions with rare Longines movements are offered at $15,000. The launch continues Vortic’s push for innovation despite recent challenges, with sales opening on November 11 at 11:00 AM MT.
Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 — Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
This matchup contrasts two philosophies of dress watch excellence: Daniel Roth’s sculptural Extra Plat Souscription and Patek Philippe’s timeless Calatrava 6196P. The Roth captivates with its distinctive form, intricate dial details, and solid gold case back that celebrate artisanal expression. The Calatrava counters with platinum refinement, a salmon dial, and a movement that balances heritage and contemporary appeal. Readers are invited to weigh design versus tradition as they vote a contender into the semifinals.
In His Own Words: François-Paul Journe on the Clock That Started It All
François-Paul Journe reflects on the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the CHF 5.51 million clock that catalyzed his pursuit of an enduring horological legacy. Inspired by Breguet, Journe’s meticulous development of a modern Sympathique led to the creation of THA and innovations that blended classical craft with forward-looking engineering. The clock’s eight-day running architecture and unique winding mechanism reveal a philosophy that marries function and beauty. This singular project remains a defining link between Journe’s identity and the lineage of Breguet.
Vox Populi: Gears, Gas, and Guts
Watchonista explores the enduring kinship between watchmaking and automobiles through collectors’ perspectives on design, performance, and materials. Icons like the Rolex Daytona and Richard Mille RM 67-02 anchor the discussion, alongside calls for deeper, co-engineered collaborations that go beyond superficial branding. Contributors advocate for material innovation and engineering-led partnerships that authentically channel automotive spirit into timepieces. The result is a roadmap for future collabs that speak to enthusiasts’ passions on both sides of the garage door.
The Latest Time
Dryden
This Ultra-Affordable Daily Field Watch Gets a User-Friendly Update
Dryden’s Heartlander Solar upgrades the brand’s compact field watch with an Epson VS42 solar quartz movement for fuss-free daily wear. It keeps the 38 mm brushed steel case and adds a refreshed dial in green, blue, black, or gray with Super‑LumiNova and a date window. A quick‑release FKM rubber strap and traditional field‑watch hands round out the practical updates. Water resistance is 100 meters, with availability beginning November 7, 2025.
Furlan Marri
Furlan Marri Introduces Blue Cornes de Vache watch
Furlan Marri expands its Cornes de Vache line with a blue sector‑dial variant inspired by 1930s layouts and refined double‑stamped details. The 37.5 mm stainless‑steel watch features cow‑horn lugs, raised Breguet‑style indexes, and anti‑reflective sapphire. Inside is the La Joux‑Perret G100 automatic with a 68‑hour power reserve and tasteful finishing. Water resistance is 50 meters, and the watch ships with two leather straps.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Black Lacquer and Pink Gold
Limited to 10 pieces, this Reverso pairs black lacquer and 18K pink gold with the fourth‑generation multi‑axis Gyrotourbillon. Dual dials deliver two time zones via the patented Duoface system, showcasing meticulous hand‑finishing and nearly two centuries of savoir‑faire. The technical spectacle is matched by Art Deco cues and a refined rectangular profile. It’s a connoisseur’s piece that blends engineering bravura with high craft.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Hybris gets an upgrade - Read More >
Louis Erard
Louis Erard Introduces the 2340 Collection
Louis Erard debuts a cushion‑case sports line with integrated bracelet, blending brushed titanium and polished steel elements. Three 40 mm variants feature mint, blue, or slate dials with distinct textures, hand‑beveled components, and a butterfly clasp. The Sellita SW300‑1 offers a 56‑hour reserve and is visible through a sapphire back. Priced at CHF 2,900, the 2340 family is a modern, crafted take on daily versatility.
Panerai
Panerai Unveils the First-Ever 40mm Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460
Panerai’s first 40 mm ceramic Luminor brings sandblasted black ceramic, the signature crown bridge, and 30‑bar water resistance to a compact GMT. The P.900/GMT automatic delivers a three‑day reserve, hacking seconds, and everyday precision. A smoked sapphire back reveals the movement, while quick‑release calfskin and rubber straps enhance wearability. The monochrome sandwich dial and robust build underscore form‑meets‑function design.
TAG Heuer
First Look: The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Senna
A tribute to Ayrton Senna, this Formula 1 features a black DLC Grade 2 titanium case, forged‑carbon tachymeter bezel with Senna signature, and 200 m water resistance. The sunray black dial uses bold Super‑LumiNova and a clean tricompax layout. Inside, the Calibre 16 automatic offers proven reliability and a 42‑hour reserve. Finished on a vivid yellow rubber strap, it’s immediate, purposeful, and unmistakably motorsport.
Hands-On Debut: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph X Senna 44mm Watch Brings Vibrant Brazilian Color To The Collection - Read More >
TAG Heuer Expands Its Senna Collection With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs - Read More >
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Senna 2025 Collection - Read More >
Tissot
First Look: The Tissot PRX now in 38mm, In Full-Titanium or Damascus Steel
Tissot’s PRX grows more versatile with new 38 mm titanium and Damascus steel options, each keeping the integrated, sporty‑chic identity and 100 m water resistance. The Powermatic 80 provides an 80‑hour reserve and robust performance. Titanium prioritizes lightness and comfort, while Damascus brings distinctive, patterned character. Pricing lands at €875 for titanium and €1,075 for Damascus.
The Definitive Affordable Sports Watch Just Achieved Its Most Perfect Form - Read More >
The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 38mm In Damascus Steel - Read More >
Tissot Adds One Damascus Steel PRX And Two Titanium Versions To The Lineup - Read More >
Tissot PRX Titanium & Damascus Steel - Read More >
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication ‘Homage to Ptolemy’ and ‘Homage to Copernicus’
Two Les Cabinotiers masterpieces translate geocentric and heliocentric models into 23 astronomical complications per watch. Each 18K‑gold piece, powered by Calibre 3600, displays civil, solar, and sidereal time alongside perpetual calendar, precision moon phase, and sunrise/sunset. The reverse reveals constellations, sidereal time, and a tourbillon in a profound display of high craft and celestial poetry. These are horological artworks for the ages.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Chopard
The Car Enthusiast’s Choice, Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control
Chopard’s Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition leans into the brand’s automotive heritage with a robust 43 mm Lucent Steel case and the in‑house 01.02‑M movement. Details like the tire‑tread rubber strap and fuel gauge‑style power reserve tie the design directly to motorsport. Limited to 250 pieces, the watch showcases a textured salmon dial and elevated finishing across the case and straps. Priced at $8,350, it strengthens the Mille Miglia’s identity as a collector‑friendly driver’s watch.
Omega
Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS
This review highlights the FOiS’s gray‑blue dial that shifts with the light, vintage‑toned lume, and straight‑lug case for a purposeful, utilitarian look. Inside, the 3861 movement brings precision and Master Chronometer credentials while the bracelet and finishing emphasize daily usability. The author admires the FOiS but views it as complementary to, not a replacement for, the Moonwatch’s singular history. Together they represent distinct chapters in the Speedmaster story.
Scurfa
Reviewing the Scurfa M.S.25: An Affordable Dive Watch with Real Credibility
The Scurfa M.S.25 delivers 500 m water resistance, a helium escape valve, and a domed sapphire at a remarkably accessible £344 price. A lumed ceramic bezel and vibrant lume add both functionality and fun, with two strap options included. While the initial look felt busy, switching to the rubber strap improved balance and wrist presence. It’s comfortable, reliable, and playful, offering genuine dive capability without the luxury price tag.
Seiko
Hands-On: The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529
The Presage SPB529 pairs a 40.2 mm polished steel case and dual‑curved sapphire with a warm Shiracha gradient dial, gold markers, and hands. Powered by the 6R55 with 72 hours of reserve, it combines practical accuracy and everyday robustness. Limited to 3,000 pieces, it includes a leather strap made from upcycled materials, underscoring a subtle sustainability angle. With 100 m water resistance, it’s an elegant, smart‑casual all‑rounder.
Seiko Prospex Alpinist - new Thong Sia Group Exclusive
This Prospex Alpinist SPB523 TSG Exclusive, limited to 800 pieces, brings a 39.5 mm steel case, 200 m water resistance, and a snowy mountain‑inspired dial. The solar compass function and cathedral hands reference the Alpinist’s 1959 roots in mountaineering practicality. Running the 6R35, it offers dependable performance and everyday versatility. It’s a sporty, chic option that transitions from trails to the office with ease.
Yema
The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment
Yema’s Navygraf Pearl blends diver functionality with an iridescent mother‑of‑pearl aesthetic while preserving the line’s robust identity. A slim 39 mm case houses the micro‑rotor CMM.2 with a 70‑hour reserve, making it a reliable weekend companion. Offered on FKM rubber or steel bracelet with sapphire back, it features Grade A Super‑LumiNova for low‑light legibility. Available in standard and limited blue‑dial variants starting at $2,190.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher L.E. 44MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (26221FT.OO.D002CA.01) - was bid to $100,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2015 Breguet Tradition 40MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (7057BR/G9/9W6)
Auction Report: Breguet Tradition 7057BR/G9/9W6
The wristwatch up for auction tonight at 8:54 p.m. (November 5, 2025) is a 2015‑dated example of the Breguet Tradition reference 7057BR/G9/9W6, in 18K rose gold, 40 mm diameter, with skeletonised dial, power‑reserve indicator and leather strap. The seller states it is in “good condition” and that the lot includes boxes (inner and outer), all additional items and the original papers dated February 25, 2015.
From a historical and horological perspective this is a significant timepiece. The model belongs to the “Tradition” line from Breguet, which references in its design the brand’s early “Souscription” watches and exposes the movement architecture on the dial side — bridges, gear train, escapement and so on are visible, revealing the watchmaker’s craft. The 7057BR/G9/9W6 is identified on Breguet’s official site with technical specification: 18K rose‑gold case, 40 mm wide, 11.7 mm thick, manual‑winding calibre 507 DR1, 50‑hour power reserve, frequency 3 Hz, 34 jewels, sapphire case‑back, water resistance to 3 bar. The dial is smaller than the case diameter allowing maximum exposure of the movement, and the power‑reserve display is placed at approximately 10 o’clock on the skeletonised dial. Historically the 7057 line followed the earlier 7027 (37mm) in the Tradition family; the 7057 brought the more contemporary 40 mm size and is widely regarded as the modern baseline for the Tradition collection.
In terms of market value, there are several data points to consider. According to WatchCharts, as of November 2, 2025 the pre‑owned market estimate for the 7057BR/G9/9W6 sits around €12,352 globally — which converts (at recent rates) to roughly $13,000‑$14,000. Other recent listings on Chrono24 show asking prices for this reference ranging from approximately US$14,000 to $30,000 depending on condition, completeness, box & papers, region and year of manufacture. LuxuryBazaar puts this model in the ~$20,000 ballpark for 2025, noting the Tradition 7057 series (in various metals) starts around that level. Hence in aggregate one could say that “full set” examples in very good condition might command in the high teens to low‑twenties (USD) while lesser examples or missing accessories trend toward the low to mid‑teens.
Given the particulars of the lot under review — 2015 date, rose gold case, skeleton dial, leather strap, full boxes, papers dated February 2015 — the completeness and provenance are strong selling points. The seller’s description of “good condition” is encouraging but invites closer scrutiny: rose‑gold watches — especially with skeleton dials — demand detailed review of condition (case‑edges, lugs, sapphire crystal, movement condition, servicing history, strap wear). The inclusion of original boxes and papers adds credibility and value premium, particularly for collectors of high‑end independent/haute horlogerie pieces. Given that some listings show asking prices up to ~$30k (though may not necessarily sell at that level) there is real upside potential if condition is excellent and the market under‑supplies this reference. On the flip side, given the lower end of realised values near $13k‑15k, there is modest downside risk if condition is weaker or if any accessories are missing or provenance is uncertain.
From an auction‑strategy viewpoint the closing time (8:54 pm) suggests the bidder community has a limited window. Because this model is somewhat niche compared to mainstream luxury brands, float in value may be greater, meaning strong condition and full set status could produce a premium. Evaluate the strap (leather likely worn), check service records, verify the papers matching serial/reference and confirm that the movement and caseback inscriptions correspond. Also check for any polishing of the case or replacement parts that may diminish value. In short, this is not an off‑the‑shelf commodity watch but a well‐crafted haute‑horlogerie piece that rewards exactness in condition and completeness.
My bottom‑line assessment: For a collector who values the heritage of Breguet, the aesthetic intrigue of an open‑worked movement and the rare combination of rose gold plus full set provenance, this example is a compelling offering. If the condition lives up to the description and no major service issues or missing pieces are revealed, I view a realistic bid range around US$18,000‑22,000 (depending on region/auction fees) with a stretch bid perhaps up to US$25,000‑28,000 if the competitive bidding drives it upward and the piece is superb. If condition is merely “good” rather than “excellent” and if any components or service history are lacking, one must be cautious and consider that value could gravitate toward the $14,000‑16,000 range. Watch the auction dynamics tonight closely.
Current bid: $5,500
The concentration of Richemont brands at these top tier auctions is telling. Vacheron, Cartier mystery clocks, and Breguet pieces commanding those estimates shows the market still values heritage and complications over hype. The Cartier Miami showroom opening alongside this auction activity suggests the group is balancing retail expansion with maintaining scarcity in the secondary markt. That duality is how traditional luxury maintains pricing power.