BuyingTime Daily - November 4, 2025
Omega goes Olympic, Fossil restructures, Atelier Wen stuns with tantalum, and Louis Erard drops Astro Boy. Time Graphing covers it all—don’t miss today’s issue!
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing — Today’s Watch Universe (November 4, 2025)
Omega is going for gold—and snow. The brand will open its first winter-themed Omega House during the 2026 Milan Winter Olympics, bringing a luxe blend of sport and hospitality to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Expect celebrity sightings, Speedmaster tributes, and a $6,800 “Milano Cortina 2026” edition with a frosty white dial and blue ceramic bezel. Meanwhile, Fossil is feeling the chill in another way, entering financial restructuring as debts, tariffs, and smartwatch whiplash finally caught up. Chalk it up to tough competition and even tougher margins.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is reminding everyone it’s not just about Reversos and dress pieces. Their traveling “Adventure Spirit” collection just landed in Las Vegas, highlighting decades of sport watch evolution—from WWII precision to deep-diving Memovox models and beyond. Over at IWC, the new “IWC.Inspired.” campaign celebrates influential women across industries, while Cartier continues to flex a century of style with a 12-model retrospective spanning Santos to Ballon Bleu.
Collectors, take note: the Calatrava-style dress watch is being re-declared essential. Whether you lean Patek Philippe, vintage IWC, or entry-level Orient, this timeless aesthetic continues to anchor collections with quiet sophistication. Speaking of quiet no longer, Atelier Wen is making a lot of noise with the Inflection—a full-tantalum, Swiss-powered, grand feu-dialed powerhouse that brings $20K+ refinement in very limited numbers. Watches don’t get more boutique than this.
Bell & Ross adds GMT and a compass to its cockpit aesthetic with the BR-03 GMT Compass, while Benrus revives the Ultra-Deep in a charming 36.5mm compressor-style diver. For retro flair with a twist, Lebois & Co is rolling out three heritage small-seconds watches at under €2,200, while Louis Erard hits the nostalgia button with an Astro Boy collab—limited to 178 pieces and priced around CHF 3,990. Pop culture meets high horology, and yes, it works.
On the creative indie front, Maen and IFL Watches channel NYC nightlife into the neon-lit Manhattan After Dark, while Minase brings poetic dial art to life via Japan’s Yusai technique. Nomos quietly updates the Metro 38 with a faster date set and the DUW 4601 movement, keeping things minimalist and functional. Meanwhile, Swatch x Omegaare howling at the moon again—this time with the “Beaver Moon” MoonSwatch, featuring luminous Snoopy and a tree-bitten moonphase.
Elsewhere, Seiko fans are enjoying a nostalgic flashback with the digital A031-5019, while Straum and Time+Tide drop a titanium Jan Mayen with Norse elegance and 68 hours of power. Reviews are in too: Breitling’s Superocean Heritage ’57 still charms with retro vibes and under-10mm thickness, Neotype pushes affordable microbrand chronos with a creamy Panda dial, and Seiko 5 Sports gets a six-year checkup against its SKX legacy—with mixed but generally positive results.
Over on Grailzee, Monday’s auction saw the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 stalling at $19,000, missing its reserve. Tonight’s star is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, reference 26221FT, heading to the checkered flag at 9:42 PM. Only 221 were made, and current bidding sits at $100,000. If you’re in the market for racing-inspired haute horology, this one’s got both pedigree and technical bravado. Let’s see who gets the win.
Stay synchronized. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Omega House to open in heart of Milan for Winter Olympics
Omega will debut its first winter-edition Omega House in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II during the 2026 Winter Olympics. The exclusive space will host celebrities and VIPs with dining at Cracco, live event coverage, and themed appearances. The venue underscores Omega’s role as Official Timekeeper and its blend of luxury and sport. Omega is also marking the occasion with a white-dial Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 featuring a blue ceramic bezel, priced at $6,800.
Fossil Is Restructuring As Debt And Tariffs Take Toll
Fossil Group is entering financial restructuring in UK and US courts after sustained losses and shrinking sales. The company struggled following its retreat from smartwatches, while tariffs and trade policies squeezed margins for products largely made in Asia. Consumers have shifted toward higher-quality mechanical watches and dominant tech competitors, eroding Fossil’s share. The restructuring aims to keep operations running while reorganizing debt and potentially finding more favorable outcomes via UK proceedings.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘The Adventure Spirit’ Traveling Collection Lands in Las Vegas
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings its traveling exhibition to the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace from November 1–24, spotlighting eight decades of sports watch innovation. The narrative unfolds across four chapters, from 1940s military precision to 1960s diving icons like the Memovox Deep Sea, 1970s bold design, and high-concept modern sports watches. Highlights include the historically significant Geophysic presented to the Nautilus submarine commander. The showcase aims to broaden perceptions beyond JLC’s dress watch heritage by emphasizing its robust sports lineage.
According to Ariel: How Watch Shows And Events Offer Both Opportunities And Challenges
In-person watch events are surging as crucial touchpoints where consumers can handle products and brands can deepen relationships. Despite the rise of digital marketing, tactile experiences still drive buying decisions and advocacy. Yet the growth in shows raises questions of cost, sustainability, and calendar crowding for both newcomers and established houses. A period of consolidation and smarter coordination may be needed to balance impact with efficiency while preserving the benefits of direct engagement.
Feature Time
Wempe Signature Collection Nomos Tangente neomatik 39
Nomos’s Tangente neomatik 39 for the Wempe Signature Collection embodies the brand’s clean, minimalist design ethos. Its slim profile comes from the neomatik movement, which delivers modern efficiency without sacrificing traditional watchmaking values. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, it transitions easily from casual to formal wear. The result is a refined, reliable piece with timeless appeal for design-focused enthusiasts.
IWC launches series dedicated to inspirational women
IWC’s new global series, IWC.Inspired., celebrates women who use their time with purpose through video storytelling and live events. Featuring figures like Melanie Grant, Michelle Kennedy, and Jodie Kidd, it highlights leadership and creativity across industries. The initiative underscores IWC’s long-standing connection to women’s timepieces and its values of precision and innovation. It positions women as influential luxury consumers shaping the modern watch landscape.
Timeless Innovation: A Century of Cartier Watchmaking Excellence in 12 Iconic Models
Cartier’s watchmaking legacy spans over a century, uniting elegance, precision, and inventive design. From the Santos-Dumont and Tank to the Crash, Panthère, Ballon Bleu, and Drive, each model reflects both technical progress and style. These icons showcase distinctive shapes and practical functionality that resonate with collectors and fashion enthusiasts. Through continual evolution grounded in heritage, Cartier remains a benchmark of horological sophistication.
Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”
The Calatrava-style dress watch epitomizes quiet elegance and balanced design, drawing on classics like the vintage IWC Cal. 89. Beyond Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, options from Omega’s Constellation to Orient Bambino and Grand Seiko SBGW show the style’s breadth across budgets. Its clean lines and simplicity showcase craftsmanship over complexity, making it a cornerstone piece. Collectors value these watches for their timelessness and versatility that endures across generations.
The Latest Time
Atelier Wen
Atelier Wen Inflection Series
Atelier Wen debuts the Inflection series with a full tantalum case and optional bracelet, showcasing the metal’s density, hypoallergenic nature, and distinctive bluish-grey hue. The 40mm integrated design adds comfort and fluid lines, while grand feu enamel dials in green, blue, and black elevate the artistry. A customized Girard-Perregaux movement brings Swiss precision with thoughtful finishing and reliability. Production is kept to 100 pieces in year one, available via application, at $19,800 on strap or $29,800 on bracelet.
Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection - Read More >
First Look: Atelier Wen Launches Inflection, an Integrated Bracelet Watch in Full-Tantalum - Read More >
Bell & Ross
First Look: The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass
The BR-03 GMT Compass combines a 42mm square case, a 24-hour bezel, and a compass scale to assist pilots and travelers with navigation and dual-time tracking. Luminous hands and markers ensure legibility, while the bidirectional bezel helps separate day and night hours. Powered by the BR-CAL.303 (Sellita SW-330-2 base), it offers a 42-hour reserve. Limited to 500 pieces at EUR 4,900, it includes both rubber and fabric straps.
Benrus
Introducing: Benrus Brings Back the Ultra-Deep as a Compact, Vintage-Inspired Compressor-Style Dive Watch
The Ultra-Deep returns with a 36.5mm compressor-style case, dual crowns, and 200 meters of water resistance for authentic dive-ready capability. A matte-black dial with cathedral hands and C3 Super-LumiNova pairs with an internal rotating bezel for timing. The Soprod P024 automatic movement provides a 38-hour power reserve. Sold on a quick-release Jubilee-style bracelet with an extra NATO strap, it’s priced at USD 1,195.
Lebois Co.
Introducing: The new Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection
Revived from its 1934 origins, Lebois & Co introduces three small-seconds models in a compact 38.7mm case inspired by 1940s–50s designs. “Baton,” “Script,” and “Numeral” dials offer distinct aesthetics, from sunray blue to Breguet-style numerals and utilitarian Arabic markers. Each watch is COSC-certified with the LC-350 automatic movement and a 56-hour power reserve. Limited to 100 Founder’s Launch pieces at EUR 2,200, deliveries begin Spring 2026.
Louis Erard
First Look: The New Louis Erard x Astro Boy Brings Pop Culture to the Wrist
Limited to 178 pieces, the Louis Erard x Astro Boy fuses pop culture with high-end finishing on a multi-layered dial. The hybrid titanium and steel case measures 40mm and pairs with a refined bracelet that balances elegance and durability. Inside is the automatic Sellita SW300-1 with a 56-hour reserve and a customized rotor. Priced at CHF 3,990, it’s designed as a collector’s statement piece with vibrant storytelling.
Introducing: Louis Erard 2340 X Astro Boy. When Childhood Dreams Take Flight on Your Wrist - Read More >
New: Louis Erard x Astro Boy - Read More >
Maen
MAEN And IFL Watches Team Up To Launch The Manhattan After Dark Limited-Edition Watch
The Manhattan After Dark translates New York nightlife into a hand-painted dial with neon and shadow interplay. A 37mm octagonal steel case on an integrated bracelet houses the Sellita SW200-1 automatic with a 38-hour reserve. Bright Super-LumiNova enhances legibility and after-hours character. Priced at $1,499, the first 300 pieces ship mid-December 2025, with later deliveries in July 2026.
Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition - Read More >
Minase
Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches
Minase partners with artist Towa Takaya to create Yusai dials from natural pigments that shift with the light. The 5 Windows Mid evokes a serene garden, the 7 Windows suggests weightlessness in deep blue, and the Divido captures ethereal luminosity with mother-of-pearl. Each piece is made to order and available exclusively online. Prices range from $6,900 to $9,100 with an estimated three-month lead time.
Nomos
Introducing the New Nomos Metro 38 Date
The Metro 38 Date upgrades to the DUW 4601 caliber, enabling faster, more convenient date setting than earlier versions. A single date indicator at 6:00 refines functionality while keeping the Metro’s calm, minimalist design language intact. Light blue hour markers and clear layout preserve legibility and balance. Retail is $3,830, underscoring Nomos’s blend of modern mechanics and classic restraint.
Omega x Swatch
Introducing: Omega x Swatch Are Finding New Moons To Conquer With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase Moonshine Gold “Beaver Moon”
Available from November 5 to the New Moon on November 20, 2025, this MoonSwatch features a blue bioceramic case and a white, sparkly-accented dial. The whimsical moonphase shows a beaver-gnawed tree, with Snoopy details including a hidden luminous thought bubble. Sized at 42mm by 13.75mm, it includes a rubber strap with velcro loop and 3-bar water resistance. Priced at $450, it continues the series’ playful, collectible spirit.
Seiko
The Seiko A031-5019: Seiko’s First Digital Alarm Wristwatch
Debuting in 1977, the A031-5019 marks Seiko’s first digital alarm wristwatch with a crisp LCD and intuitive front-facing controls. Its 37mm steel case and chiclet bracelet create a slender, timeless profile. Collectors value its strong contrast display and programmable alarm, with prices typically $150–$400 depending on condition. With 20mm lugs, strap options abound, making it a versatile vintage entry point.
Straum
Straum x Time+Tide Jan Mayen Titanium
This limited edition blends Norwegian design with sports-luxury cues in bead-blasted grade 5 titanium at 39mm by 11.5mm. A textured green dial with a golden undertone, bold indices, and Super-LumiNova hands provides presence and clarity. The La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement offers 68 hours of power. Priced at £1,908 and water resistant to 100 meters, it’s available for pre-order through Time+Tide’s studio.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Atelier Wen
Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Inflection Pushes The Boundaries With A Full Tantalum Design And Grand Feu Enamel Dials
Atelier Wen’s Inflection introduces a full tantalum case and bracelet, a rare and demanding material that gives the watch its dense weight and unique bluish-grey hue. Curved facets and polished finishes elevate the design, while grand feu enamel dials in green fumé, black, and midnight blue showcase artisanal craft. A customized Girard-Perregaux movement underpins the technical performance and refinement. Pricing is $29,800 on bracelet or $19,800 on sailcloth, squarely positioning it in haute horology.
Breitling
Breitling Superocean Heritage ‘57 Outerknown Review
A tribute to the 1957 original, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown pairs a slim, under-10mm case with a bidirectional bezel and easy-wearing comfort. Offered in stainless steel or two-tone with rose gold bezel, it emphasizes vintage charm, legibility, and distinctive hands. The watch ships on an integrated brown Econyl strap, adding a sustainable touch to the heritage design. Prices hover around $3,000 for steel and $4,000 for two-tone, well below original MSRP.
Neotype
Neotype LM02 Type C Panda
The LM02 Type C Panda updates Neotype’s multipurpose tool watch with a creamy “panda” dial and black sub-registers. A robust 39mm steel case, 200 meters of water resistance, domed sapphire, and screw-down crown ensure durability. Seiko’s VK64 mechaquartz delivers chronograph functionality with a 24-hour indicator and 60-minute totalizer. Limited to 150 pieces for panda and 75 for reverse panda, it’s priced at €525 and €566 respectively and includes FKM rubber plus an extra NATO-style strap.
Seiko
6-Year Review: Does The Seiko 5 Sports Live Up To The Seiko SKX?
This long-term review examines design, durability, and performance to see whether Seiko 5 Sports meets the SKX’s iconic standard. It details movement upgrades and broader versatility aimed at today’s enthusiasts. User feedback and ownership experiences highlight both strengths and trade-offs since launch. The verdict weighs value within Seiko’s legacy and the expectations of collectors.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 41MM Black Dial Leather Strap (117.028) - was bid to $19,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher L.E. 44MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (26221FT.OO.D002CA.01)
Auction Report: “Tracking Time and Speed: The Historically Bold Impact of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher 26221FT.OO.D002CA.01”
Our auction listing presents a very good‑condition example of the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, reference 26221FT.OO.D002CA.01, accompanied by box and papers (undated). This important limited‑edition piece—one of just 221 worldwide—is currently heading into its auction close tonight (November 14 2025, at 9:42 PM). Given the model’s rarity, historical significance and technical innovation, it deserves a careful read of provenance, condition, market context and valuation.
History & Technical Significance
Launched by Audemars Piguet in around 2015 (announcement via insiders). The watch was commissioned and developed in collaboration with seven‑time Formula 1 world champion Michael Schumacher, who challenged Audemars Piguet to design a mechanical wristwatch able to measure consecutive lap times—an advanced racing‑inspired chronograph tool. The result is the “Laptimer” complication: it features two central chronograph seconds hands (enabling the timing of two successive laps), flyback functionality and a mechanism powered by three column‑wheels, unique at the time. The case is forged carbon (44 mm diameter) with a titanium bezel and a skeletonised dial that reveals the high‑tech architecture beneath—including red accents and titanium bridges. The limited‑edition count of 221 was chosen to reflect Schumacher’s number of F1 Championship‑point‑earning Grand Prix races (or some such symbolic tie) and thus adds to the collect‑backstory. All of this places the watch in the intersection of high‑horology, motorsport legacy and boutique scarcity.
Your Specific Listing Aspects
The listing noting “very good condition” (rather than mint/new) means wear may exist—but with a rare piece such as this the original box & papers significantly enhance value. Because no specific date of the papers is given it will help to clarify full set completeness, original purchase warranty card, serenely the correct reference and serial, and whether any servicing history is documented. Given its age (roughly a decade) check for movement service, case condition (carbon tends to show micro‑marks), strap condition and whether original rubber strap is intact. The reference matches that offered by multiple sources (26221FT.OO.D002CA.01) and the specs mentioned align with published details (44 mm forged carbon case, skeleton dial, rubber strap). For prospective bidders this limited print run underscores high desirability but also higher expectations for condition and completeness.
Market Value & Auction Outlook
Market listings for this reference reflect a fairly broad spread, partly due to condition, completeness, geography and market volatility. For example, one listing showed USD 195,000 for this model. Another shows asking prices in the ~$150,000 range. Older references note the original retail price was CHF 210,000 at launch. According to market‑analytics site WatchCharts the model has experienced recent headwinds: the model is down ~10.8% over the past year, and down ~11.4% over the past five years, under‑performing both the brand average and overall market indices. That suggests while the watch remains rare and unique, its liquidity and appreciation potential are more complex than “buy and hold will always go up”.
Given the “very good” condition designation (versus “mint”/“new”/“full set flawless”), the presence of box & papers is a strong positive, but one should expect some adjustment in hammer price compared to the top‐priced listings. A realistic mid to high 5‑figure USD starting point—and likely range somewhere between about USD 130,000‑200,000 depending on condition, servicing, and full completeness—is consistent with market today.
Bidding Strategy & Considerations for this Auction
Because the auction ends tonight at 9:42 pm, time is tight. If you’re representing the seller, ensure all documentation is clear (box & papers verification), condition photographs (especially of case/strap/bracelet) are provided, and the listing emphasises the model’s technical story (first mechanical laptimer, Schumacher link, limited 221 piece run). For the buyer side, set a maximum bid in advance based on condition and completeness relative to those listing comparables ~195 k USD and ask for any service history or reserve details. Consider that the market for such technical limited editions is more niche than everyday Royal Oak models—meaning fewer bidders, possibly lower competition but higher risk if condition or provenance is weak.
Conclusion
This 26221FT.Laptimer Michael Schumacher represents one of the more compelling collector pieces from Audemars Piguet’s bold Concept line—both technically and historically. Its rarity (221 pieces), F1 association, and mechanical innovation give it story value well beyond its material. In the auction tonight, provided the condition is as described and the completeness is verified, I would value it in the USD 130,000‑200,000 range, leaning toward the upper end only if condition and set are exceptional. The key for the seller will be clarity of provenance, condition transparency and presentation of the story; the key for bidders will be readiness, due diligence and a realistic ceiling based on recent market performance.
Current bid: $100,000