BuyingTime Daily - November 3, 2025
Flippers get blocked, carbon cases go bold, and Zeus meets haute horology. Plus: auctions, artistry, and the return of the bullhead. Dive into today’s watch world.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing: Today’s Watch Universe — November 3, 2025
Studio Underd0g earned applause the other day by canceling a $16,000 order from a suspected flipper after spotting the same watches listed en masse on eBay. Founder Richard Benc said the move protects real enthusiasts—a rare act of integrity that went viral in all the right ways. Meanwhile, a cautionary tale: a roundup of luxury watches that shed value faster than a new car includes models from Hublot, TAG Heuer, Panerai, and Ulysse Nardin. The takeaway? If you’re playing the value retention game, you’re better off with Rolex or Omega—or just buy what you love and don’t look back.
For reading material, The Book of Rolex was praised for offering an accessible, non-nerdy dive into the brand’s history. It’s the kind of gift that says, “I know what a Parachrom Bleu hairspring is—but I also like coffee table books.” Over at Fratello, the dress watch smackdown continues, with Chopard’s L.U.C Qualité Fleurier taking on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso in a match too elegant to call. Elsewhere, “The Magnificent Seven” highlighted watches as wearable art—like Hermès’ musical enamel dial and Glashütte Original’s Meissen-inspired porcelain vibes.
The indie scene buzzed with the debut of Manteio’s Zeus, the myth-infused creation from self-taught watchmaker Alex Goetschi, and Aubert Ramel’s first release, the Ouréa—limited to just 14 pieces and infused with haute horlogerie detail. Also worth watching is the ongoing comparison between microbrand contenders Baltic and Nodus, both vying for your wrist with style and specs under $1,000. Meanwhile, Fratello featured five carbon-case newcomers, including the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” and the TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback TH-Carbonspring, proving carbon is officially in its cool era.
Sotheby’s and Christie’s fall auctions in Geneva offered up a candy store for collectors: Cartier mystery clocks, Breguet pieces once tied to royalty, and a Patek Philippe 3970 with Breguet numerals. Closer to home, the Audrain Newport Concours d’Elegance brought out the best of A. Lange & Söhne, classic cars, and celebrity wristwear—Jay Leno included. And if you’re bored of steel, today’s deep dive into exotic case materials—from bronze and ceramic to full sapphire—might inspire your next horological adventure.
One collector’s journey with his stolen MB&F HM9, recovered after two years and a legal paper trail across continents, reminded us that sometimes watches carry not just value, but stories worth telling. Speaking of stories, someone just reflected on their Tudor Heritage Ranger surviving a motorcycle crash—and still ticking. And Panerai’s 8-day Luminor PAM00915 got a heartfelt review from a skeptic turned convert.
If you’re in the market, the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (117.028) is up for auction tonight. With no box or papers but a clean white gold case and a sharp black dial, it’s a chance to grab German horology with presence and pedigree. Current bid: $15,100. Market value? $26K–$34K. You do the math. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Studio Underd0g cancels a flipper’s US$16,000 order
Studio Underd0g canceled a US$16,000 order for ten watches after spotting an eBay listing marked up with multiple units “available,” indicating flipping. Founder Richard Benc said prioritizing customer integrity over quick profit allows genuine enthusiasts to get the watches. The move drew strong praise across social media. Some suggested adding per‑buyer limits on future limited runs.
6 Luxury Watches That Lose Value Faster Than Cars
Many luxury watches depreciate quickly, with examples like Hublot’s Big Bang often dropping 40–60% due to overproduction and saturated demand. TAG Heuer and Breitling can face similar resale challenges, and models like Panerai’s Luminor or Cartier’s Roadster have seen waning popularity. Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer may also lose over half its value despite quality, due to lower mainstream recognition. Buyers focused on retention may seek limited editions from brands like Rolex or Omega, while others may value design and enjoyment over resale outcomes.
Book Review: The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge on The Crown
The Book of Rolex distills a century of brand history and innovations into a clear, approachable guide for both enthusiasts and newcomers. Originally in Danish and updated in English, it balances breadth and readability without cataloging every reference. It traces Rolex from Wilsdorf & Davis to its icons, materials, collections, and cultural milestones. With strong sales and refreshed content, it makes a thoughtful gift and a concise reference on the brand’s legacy.
Feature Time
Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 — Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Fratello pits the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition against the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Chopard’s piece is celebrated for the prestigious Qualité Fleurier seal, an elegant yellow gold case, two-tone dial, and the finely finished L.U.C 96.09-L caliber. The Reverso counters with elegant design, a rose gold Milanese bracelet, and the brand’s rigorous 1000 Hours Control testing. Both watches showcase high craftsmanship, leaving the audience to decide which advances.
The Magnificent Seven: Mixed Media Watches That Embody Artistic Expression
This feature surveys seven watches that fuse horology with high art across materials and techniques. Highlights include Hermès’ Arceau On Air! with musical motifs, Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Spirit honoring Japanese literature, and Czapek’s Antarctique Plique-à-Jour enamel artistry. Glashütte Original’s porcelain-inspired Senator Meissen and Montblanc’s theatrical Exo Tourbillon add cultural depth. Each timepiece becomes a wearable canvas that tells a story beyond timekeeping.
The Manteio Zeus, Self-Taught Watchmaker Alex Goetschi’s Divine Debut
Alex Goetschi unveils Manteio with “Zeus,” a debut inspired by Greek mythology and personal passions for birds and mechanical art. A self-taught watchmaker with an engineering background, Goetschi spent six years building his workshop and developing the project. The zeus-themed dial and classical architecture details are matched by a movement co-developed with Jean‑François Mojon of Chronode. Each watch ships with a book narrating the myth and the making, inviting collectors into the story.
The Man Who Lost (and Found) His Grail: Paul Blandford and the Tale of the Stolen MB&F HM9
After a 2022 mugging, collector Paul Blandford began a two-year quest to recover his stolen MB&F HM9. Along the way he acquired another HM9 in a trade, only to learn his original had resurfaced in Istanbul and then at auction in Zürich. With legal support and Art Recovery International, the watch returned to him in 2024. The journey deepened its meaning, now bearing the marks of loss and resilience.
Affordable Microbrand Watch Showdown: Baltic vs Nodus
This comparison analyzes Baltic and Nodus to help enthusiasts find the best value at accessible prices. It weighs design, build quality, and functionality as well as comfort and style versatility. Brand reputation and ownership experience are considered to provide a fuller picture beyond specs. The article guides buyers toward a microbrand that fits their preferences and lifestyle.
Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Carbon Watches — Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Zenith, And More
Fratello highlights five recent releases that showcase carbon’s growing role in watchmaking. Picks include the Zenith × Revolution “Cover Girl Carbon,” the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon, and Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25.” TAG Heuer’s Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH‑Carbonspring brings an innovative hairspring. G‑Shock’s GCW-B5000UN variations round out the list with bold designs and functionality.
Buying Guide: The Depth of Detail, With 6 Beautifully Textured Blue Dials
Six standout blue dials demonstrate different approaches to texture and storytelling. Grand Seiko’s SLGW007 evokes birch bark, while Oris’s Aquis Pro 1000 delivers a wave-patterned gradient for divers. GoS brings Damascus steel artistry inspired by Viking relics, and Citizen’s Tsuyosa 60 adds accessible guilloché charm. Louis Erard’s integrated-sports aesthetic and Czapek’s Lapis Lazuli Mount Erebus further broaden the palette.
Auctions: Incredible Mystery Clocks, Breguet Watches for Royalty, And A Rare Set of Pateks At Sotheby’s And Christie’s Fall Geneva Auctions
Sotheby’s and Christie’s present standout Geneva auctions with rare clocks and important watches. Highlights include the Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster, Cartier’s Shinto Shrine Gate Mystery Clock, and Breguet pieces tied to royalty. Christie’s features modern rarities like Richard Mille and a Patek Philippe ref. 3970 with Breguet numerals. From vintage icons to contemporary grails, the catalogs target collectors across tastes.
Photo Report: A Day Of Cars And Watches At The 2025 Audrain Newport Concours d’Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne
The Audrain Newport Concours blends automotive excellence with fine watch spotting. Sponsored by A. Lange & Söhne, the event showcased over 150 cars and a parade of notable timepieces on attendees’ wrists. Industry figures like Wilhelm Schmid and Jay Leno underscore the shared ethos between cars and watches. The day celebrated craftsmanship, design, and the communities around both.
The ABCs of Time - Beyond Steel, Unusual Materials Used for Watch Cases
This primer explores alternative case materials beyond steel, gold, and titanium. Bronze offers corrosion resistance and a distinctive patina, while titanium balances lightness and strength. Ceramic and carbon fiber deliver modern aesthetics, durability, and color versatility, and sapphire cases push clarity and hardness—at a price. The trend reflects a growing appetite for individuality and material innovation.
Revisiting the bullhead: the rebel of chronographs returns
Bulova’s 150th anniversary collaboration with Shelby Racing revives the bullhead chronograph layout with pushers at 12 o’clock. The ergonomic, driver‑focused design improves lap timing but adds bulk and manufacturing complexity. Citizen’s reissues and pop‑culture appearances hint at a niche resurgence. Even so, specialized tooling and economics suggest bullheads will remain a connoisseur’s choice.
Coming To Terms With A Motorbike Crash With My Tudor Heritage Ranger
A reflective ride along Australia’s Convict Trail becomes a meditation on survival and memory. The author’s Tudor Heritage Ranger, scarred in a past crash, embodies resilience and the will to move forward. Paired with a vintage BMW R65, the watch underscores durability and emotional connection to objects. Each mile reconciles past trauma with present gratitude.
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM00915 owner’s review
A skeptic turns admirer after living with Panerai’s manual‑wind Luminor 8 Giorni PAM00915. The cushion case, sandwich dial, and eight‑day autonomy deliver distinctive character and tactile engagement. While the movement’s finishing and lack of a power reserve indicator draw critique, comfort and presence win out. It earns its spot by offering a refreshing break from conventional designs.
The Latest Time
Aubert Ramel
Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa
Aubert Ramel introduces the Ouréa, a limited-edition piece crafted with meticulous attention and independent watchmaking know-how. Its distinctive “scraped” dial with teal accents applied via atomic layer deposition gives the watch a minimal yet striking aesthetic. The 40.40 mm watch blends functionality and finish, with in‑house movement components and a 72‑hour power reserve. Limited to 14 pieces in grade 5 titanium, it underscores the brand’s commitment to quality at an haute horlogerie level.
Brellum
First Look: The new Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE
Brellum’s Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE is limited to 33 pieces and pairs a 43 mm steel case and tachymeter bezel with a multi‑level panda dial. A COSC‑certified BR‑750RM automatic movement based on the Valjoux 7750 delivers a 46‑hour reserve and full chronograph functionality. Versatility comes via a steel bracelet and black veal leather strap, plus 100 m water resistance. An exhibition back reveals the finely finished movement for a sport‑elegant package.
Ebel
EBEL 1911 Globe: 24 time zones, a single movement
The EBEL 1911 Globe combines stainless steel, 18‑carat yellow gold, and a black ceramic bezel for a bold, durable 42 mm case. Its galvanic turquoise dial carries 18‑carat gold continents and a 24‑time‑zone ceramic bezel for global legibility. A Swiss automatic movement offers precision without batteries, and water resistance is rated to 100 meters. The watch comes with a three‑year warranty and is positioned for buyers who value both aesthetics and function.
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original Captures Starry Glashütte Nights In The PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Watch
To mark 180 years of watchmaking in Glashütte, the brand unveils a 180‑piece PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition in platinum with a shimmering aventurine dial. Its mother‑of‑pearl moonphase and Panorama Date complement the signature off‑center layout. Inside is the in‑house Calibre 92 automatic with a 100‑hour power reserve, finished and assembled by hand. The result is an artisanal showcase of precision and Saxon heritage.
Haim
New Release: The Haim Annum Watch Brings An Annual Calendar To The Microbrand Scene
Haim celebrates its fifth anniversary with the Annum, featuring a customized automatic movement with annual calendar and moonphase. The Caliber HWC‑2, based on Miyota’s 9000 series, adds a gold‑plated tungsten rotor and a transparent disc for a cleaner view of the mechanics. The 38 mm steel case (12 mm thick) houses dials in Dark Cobalt, Stone White, or Fumée, paired with handmade Epsom leather straps. With early reservations opening November 7, 2025, it targets rare functionality at an accessible price point.
Northern Watches
Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner
Northern Watches debuts the NW1 Bronze Age (CuSn8) and NW2 Northerner (316L steel), each with a minimalist Northern‑European aesthetic and natural stone dials. A unique 24‑hour display and 38 mm cases with double‑domed sapphire give the duo a distinctive presence. Both run on the Sellita SW330‑2 with independently adjustable hours, paired with quick‑release Alcantara straps. A live Kickstarter campaign offers early access with pricing from CHF 1,211 to CHF 1,398.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Steel And Rose Gold With A Stone Blue Dial
This Tonda PF Micro‑Rotor refresh blends warm rose gold accents with a shifting stone blue dial in a 40 mm, 7.8 mm‑thin case. The hand‑guilloché Grain d’Orge texture, applied indices, and skeletonized hands elevate the refined aesthetic. Inside, the ultra‑thin PF703 maintains a 48‑hour reserve and 100 m water resistance. Priced at CHF 28,200, it bridges the all‑gold and steel‑platinum variants with a distinctly modern elegance.
Sartory Billard
Sartory-Billard SB04-E Tantoster
Sartory‑Billard’s SB04‑E Tantoster introduces a tantalum guilloché “grand panier” dial, showcasing rare‑metal artistry and machining prowess. Limited to 10 pieces and retailing at USD 6,850 via Oster Jewelers, it pairs a 39.5 mm steel case and 100 m water resistance with distinctive finishing. Powering the watch is a La Joux‑Perret automatic movement with a 68‑hour reserve for reliability and practicality. Two included straps—leather and rubber—round out a compelling, material‑led design.
Yema
Yema Just Did Something No One Else Has: a Mother-of-Pearl Bezel on a Diver
Yema’s Navygraf Pearl adds a mother‑of‑pearl bezel to the diver category, extending iridescent elegance beyond the dial. The 39 mm steel case offers 200 m water resistance, with Blue limited editions and darker standard models showing natural nacre variations. A manufacture micro‑rotor movement (Morteau 20) helps deliver a slim profile and strong autonomy. Offered on an H‑link bracelet or perforated rubber, it leans refined over toolish while staking a unique material claim.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Axia Time
Watch Review: The AXIA Time NGA Argos Adds Geospatial Style To A Classic Diver Design
The NGA Argos is a custom 42 mm dive watch created for the U.S. National Geospatial‑Intelligence Agency, blending classic dive cues with mission‑driven details. A stainless steel case, compass bezel, and topographic‑map dial underscore its navigation theme, while a Swiss Sellita SW200 ensures reliable automatic timekeeping. Thoughtful touches include a date marking the agency’s founding and its motto on the rehaut, with both bracelet and rubber strap included. Priced at $1,145, it targets enthusiasts who appreciate purpose-built design and versatility.
Ball Watch Company
Ball Roadmaster M Model A Watch Review: A Mechanical GMT Alarm That Glows
The limited‑edition Roadmaster M Model A pairs a mechanical alarm with GMT functionality in a robust steel package. With 29 tritium tubes and a dual 24‑hour scale, legibility and utility lead the design, powered by Ball’s RRM7379 movement. While the alarm crown can be awkward due to bezel overhang, the piece delivers uncommon complications and presence in 904L steel. At $6,599, it’s a distinctive tool for collectors who want something rare and technical.
Blancpain
Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection
Blancpain refreshes the Villeret line with slimmer bezels, larger crowns, and refined lugs for a more elegant profile. Cleaner typography and enlarged calendar windows improve dial legibility, while automatic calibers deliver strong power reserves and fine finishing. The range spans 40 mm Extraplate and Quantième Complet Phases de Lune models plus a 33.2 mm diamond‑set option, in steel or 18K rose gold. With steel starting at CHF 9,900, the collection balances classical style and thoughtful updates.
Brellum
Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE
Limited to 33 pieces, the Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE brings a 43 mm steel case, panda dial, and COSC‑certified BR‑750RM movement. The watch adds a power reserve indicator, tachymeter, and luminous detailing for practicality. Despite its size, a five‑row bracelet aids comfort, and a sapphire back reveals tasteful perlage and Geneva stripes. Priced at CHF 3,125, it blends classic looks with enthusiast‑grade specs.
Citizen
Hands-On: Limited-Edition Citizen Attesa JAXA HTV-X H800 Watch Delivers Space-Themed Spectacle
Inspired by JAXA’s HTV‑X cargo vehicle, this Attesa features a black DLC Super Titanium case and midnight‑blue aventurine dial. The Eco‑Drive H800 brings radio sync, perpetual calendar, and a chronograph, all presented in an elegant, traditional layout. With a matching Super Titanium bracelet and angular case lines, the space motif stays cohesive and wearable. Limited to 1,300 pieces at $1,350, it’s a tech‑forward, visually striking limited edition.
Metrical
Hands-On: the Metrical Epiphany One
The Epiphany One reimagines time display with a graphical sun‑and‑moon hour indicator and a self‑explanatory minute hand. Guilloché dial work and strong lume amplify the concept’s visual impact, while a 39 mm steel case keeps it approachable. A Sellita SW331‑2 movement powers the unconventional design, which nods to ancient timekeeping with a modern execution. Its thematic cues may not appeal to everyone, but the craft and clarity suggest real promise.
Rolex
Hands-On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo
The yellow‑gold Perpetual 1908 Settimo introduces a seven‑link bracelet that blends vintage charm with modern comfort. At just 9.5 mm thick and powered by the cal. 7140, it balances elegance with Rolex’s industrial precision. A lacquered dial with crisp markers and sub‑seconds complements the sleek Oyster‑inspired case. Priced at $35,900, it offers a refined, contemporary take on the classic dress watch.
Urwerk
Review: The Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion, Streamlined, Redefined, Still with the Same Bite
Urwerk evolves its satellite display with a 240‑degree retrograde arc, blue anodized satellites, and a sculpted, ergonomic case. Despite bold dimensions, the watch wears comfortably and retains the drama of Urwerk’s signature time‑telling. The automatic UR‑50.01 caliber offers a 43‑hour reserve and twin turbine regulation, visible through a sapphire back. Limited to 50 pieces at CHF 90,000, it’s a masterclass in avant‑garde horology with real‑world usability.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 39MM Black Dial Leather Strap (6006G-001) - was bid to $17,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 41MM Black Dial Leather Strap (117.028)
Auction Report: Acquisition Opportunity — A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 41 mm White Gold Reference 117.028
This refined wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne combines understated luxury with the brand’s hallmark Germanic precision. The Grand Lange 1 line was introduced as a larger‑case variant of the iconic Lange 1, itself launched in 1994 and celebrated for its asymmetric dial layout and outsized date display.
The 117.028 variant features an 18‑carat white gold case (41 mm diameter) paired with a black dial crafted from solid silver and a high‑quality leather strap. According to the listing, the case houses the manually wound calibre L095.1 movement, which offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and bears the hand‑engraved balance cock typical of Lange’s finishing. The dial is laid out in the characteristic Lange fashion: a subdial for hours and minutes, a smaller seconds counter, a power‑reserve indicator and the large date window. The substantial size combined with the elegant materials makes this a serious dress watch with presence.
Historically, the Grand Lange 1 was first launched in 2003 in a 41.9 mm case, then refined in 2012 to about 40.9 mm diameter and thinner profile. The model 117.028 is now discontinued, enhancing its appeal as a collector’s item. Current market‑data indicates a pre‑owned market price in the region of USD ~$25,400 as of November 1, 2025. More specifically, listing and recent sale data show examples of ref. 117.028 in white gold with black dial trading in the range of $26,000 to $34,000, excluding full set or special condition.
From a value‑perspective the original retail price was approximately USD 45,800 in March 2020. Thus the current auction offers a chance to acquire a high‑horology piece from Lange in white gold at a meaningful discount to original retail — provided condition, service history, and completeness are taken into account.
Given that the listing excludes box and papers, it is prudent to factor‑in a modest discount relative to full‑set examples. With that caveat, if the seller’s “very good condition” is confirmed (minimal signs of wear, case and strap in fine shape, movement running well), bidding within the $28,000‑$32,000 range (subject to market competition tonight) would align with precedent. Above that range the incremental premium for condition or rarity starts to weigh heavily.
In summary: the 117.028 is a desirable white‑gold Grand Lange 1, representing one of the more accessible entries into Lange’s high‑end dress sport watches. Tonight’s auction closes at 8:35 pm—if you’re in the market for German haute horlogerie with strong pedigree, this is certainly one to monitor.
Current bid: $15,100