BuyingTime Daily - November 28, 2025
Dubai Watch Week drives big headlines, new releases land fast, and Black Friday “watch deals” tease the brave. Plus, an Urwerk UR-103.03 heats up at auction tonight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 28, 2025
To our U.S. readers, we hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving—and welcome to Black Friday, the one day of the year when the phrase “watch bargains” doesn’t sound like satire. If anything remotely resembling a deal crosses your feed today, treat it like Halley’s Comet: rare, fleeting, and probably already gone.
Dubai Watch Week continues to cast a long shadow across the industry, with CEOs from Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Chopard, Hublot, and the rest of the Swiss brain trust sounding off on strategy, leadership, and how to avoid the whiplash of another boom-and-bust cycle. AP’s Ilaria Resta urged the industry to finally align supply with reality—something collectors have been begging for since, well, forever. Despite the squeeze on suppliers, the consensus vibe was cautious optimism for 2026, with most brands leaning into identity, design discipline, and sustainable growth. A rare moment of group therapy, Swiss-style.
Back in the U.S., Pittsburgh’s historic Strip District is now home to the new Orr’s Jewelers flagship, an 8,500-square-foot cathedral of steel, brick, and luxury. Omega gets the spotlight, Rolex sits this location out, and the Gordon family says the whole neighborhood reminds them of Shoreditch—tech buzz included. Early visitors say the store feels like a slice of New York or Miami retail transplanted onto the Monongahela.
Dive-watch aficionados get fresh praise today with a deep look at bezels from Seiko, Rolex, and microbrands that punch far above their weight. The takeaway is simple: feel matters, alignment matters, and everyday timing tasks are the real proving ground. Meanwhile, a pair of unissued vintage Perseo railway watches turned up in a Bologna flea market—manual-wind Unitas inside, all business on the outside, and a reminder that utilitarian charm ages better than most trends.
Dubai Watch Week also delivered a roundup of new releases tailored to each brand’s DNA. Oris sharpened its ProPilot Date, MB&F unveiled an Art Deco-infused HM11, and Daniel Roth balanced heritage and finesse with a new platinum tourbillon. As for asymmetry, the latest crop—from Hamilton to independents like Exaequo and Nectere—proves that sculptural case design still has plenty to say. Henry Catchpole also pulled readers into the beautiful parallels between dashboard gauges and watch dials, hoping their tactile artistry survives our march toward screens.
The event’s official editorial wrap-up paints a picture of Dubai Watch Week 2025 as its most ambitious yet: 90 brands, nearly 50,000 visitors, and enough panels, launches, and meet-the-makers moments to power the horological internet for weeks. Cameos from Rolex’s Jean-Frédéric Dufour and technical highlights from Chopard and Audemars Piguet capped a fair that’s quickly becoming as essential as Geneva and Watches & Wonders.
Independent watchmaker Dann Phimphrachanh also earns the spotlight for his stunning Seconde Vive, which uses a Reuleaux cam to animate its expressive seconds display. With limited production and a growing waitlist, his work signals a breakout moment in artisanal indie watchmaking. And for those brushing up on complications, a refresher on retrograde mechanics—powered by snail cams and dramatic resets—ties together examples from Patek Philippe to Longines.
Shinola’s WU25 panel offered a cultural deep-dive into Detroit-influenced design, while Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens reflected on 15 years of human-centered horology and new steps forward with titanium bracelets and artist collaborations. Vintage fans get a whimsical detour through the 1990 Timex Hooks, and technical die-hards can savor Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 and 9SA4 movements, each proving that high-beat precision can still feel poetic.
On the event front, Phillips prepares to open its A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte exhibition in New York, timed to the 150th anniversary of Ferdinand-Adolph Lange’s death—complete with tourbillons, sonneries, and enough German engineering to make any collector’s knees buckle.
New releases round out the day, from Cimier’s bright and accessible 47° North field watch to the jewel-like Ferragamo Crystal Petite. Furlan Marri, G-Shock, Heinrich, Hublot, Panerai, Pequignet, Schaefer & Companions, Serica, Zenith, and concept-driven zeruzzi all drop fresh pieces, each leaning into distinct aesthetics from desert tones to full-blown futuristic philosophy.
Reviews include the 250th-anniversary Breguet Classique 7225, a magnetic-pivot technical triumph in warm gold; a limited G-Shock celebrating the EVANGELION anime’s 30th anniversary; a refined midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso; a platinum-cased malachite-rich Louis Vuitton Escale; a radiant new MeisterSinger Kaenos; Praesidus’ historically themed Victory Day dress watch; and Ressence’s Type 8 Daniel Engelberg with its kinetic dial art.
And in the auction corner, yesterday’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date stalled at $5,700 and missed its reserve—still a sleeper for anyone wanting a modern JLC diver at the right number. Tonight’s big headline is our in-depth Auction Report on the Urwerk UR-103.03, a white-gold satellite-hours icon with a current bid of $7,500. There are “deals,” and then there are independent milestones. This feels like the latter.
Enjoy the hunt, enjoy the leftovers, and may your Black Friday browsing yield at least one watch that doesn’t require a refinancing conversation. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Top Swiss Watch CEOs Talk Leadership And Strategy Amid Industry Challenges At Dubai Watch Week
At Dubai Watch Week, leaders from Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Chopard, Hublot, and others discussed how to steer through a post‑boom downturn that is squeezing suppliers and component makers. Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta cautioned that production and supply chains must be better aligned to avoid another boom‑and‑bust cycle that could endanger Swiss watchmaking’s heritage. While conditions are tough now, the group expressed cautious optimism for a recovery in 2026. Their focus is on sharpening brand identity and pursuing responsible growth in a more competitive market.
Orr’s opens in former industrial area of Pittsburgh
Orr’s Jewelers has moved from Squirrel Hill to a new flagship in the Strip District, transforming a historic warehouse with 22‑foot ceilings and exposed brick into an 8,500‑square‑foot luxury space. The family‑owned retailer, founded in 1952, showcases top jewelry and watch brands in the new showroom, with Omega among the featured names and Rolex not included at this location. Co‑owners David and Marcia Gordon and their daughters, Aliza and Leslie, say the Strip District’s buzz and tech energy remind them of London’s Shoreditch. Early client feedback highlights a warm, upscale atmosphere akin to premier stores in New York and Miami.
Feature Time
The Best Dive Watch Bezels We’ve Ever Tested From Seiko To Microbrands
Dive bezels do more than time dives. Across models from Seiko’s SKX173 and Turtle to the Rolex Submariner and Baltic Aquascaphe, the best bezels balance precision, feel, and durability. Smooth, deliberate actions and secure alignment make everyday timing tasks easy and reliable. These watches demonstrate how thoughtful bezel design elevates both function and aesthetics.
Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market
A pair of authentic yet unissued Perseo railway watches surfaced at a Bologna market, embodying the brand’s functional legacy for Italy’s State Railway. The C‑shaped steel case, white dial, and black numerals capture a formal, utilitarian charm. Powered by a manual-wind Unitas, the watch’s high-contrast design prioritizes legibility and reliability. Light wear underscores its workhorse character and the vital role of timekeeping in rail travel.
Five Dubai Watch Week Debuts That Play to Brand Strengths
Dubai Watch Week spotlighted launches that stayed true to their makers’ DNA while pushing form and tech forward. Oris refreshed its ProPilot Date with purposeful updates, while Vanguart’s Black Hole Tourbillon leaned hard into futuristic luxury. MB&F’s HM11 “Art Deco” riffed on early 20th‑century design language to bold effect. Pieces like the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum balanced heritage cues with refined modern execution.
5 Asymmetrical Watches Embracing Avant Garde Case Design
Asymmetrical cases are redefining what a wristwatch can be, prioritizing individuality and sculptural form. Independent makers lead the charge with designs that feel like wearable art, from Hamilton’s Ventura Edge Skeleton to Exaequo’s Melting Watch. Standouts like Nectere’s Order From Chaos and Toledano & Chan’s B/1.2 tell vivid design stories. These watches provoke conversation while proving that exceptional horology transcends symmetry.
On Clockfaces, Dials, And Dashboards
Henry Catchpole explores the deep connection between car gauges and watch dials, celebrating their shared blend of beauty and function. From the GMA T.50 to classic Ferraris, analog instruments elevate the driving experience with clarity and character. Even as screens replace needles, drivers still crave tactile controls and legible layouts. Catchpole hopes the artistry of great dials endures amid the digital shift.
Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025
The seventh Dubai Watch Week hit new scale with 90 brands and 49,000 visitors, transforming Burj Park into a dynamic waterfront fair. Despite the size, the atmosphere encouraged personal encounters among leaders, collectors, and creators. Major launches ranged from Chopard’s technical showpieces to conceptual accessories from Audemars Piguet. Panels featuring figures like Rolex’s Jean‑Frédéric Dufour underscored the event’s growing global importance.
Seasoned Watchmaker Dann Phimphrachanh And His Stunning Seconde Vive
Dann Phimphrachanh’s path from France and Portugal to Switzerland culminates in a handcrafted debut with a distinctive seconds mechanism. Embracing traditional techniques, he uses a Reuleaux cam to create a unique, expressive seconds display. Limited production and a growing waitlist reflect his quality‑over‑quantity ethos. As an AHCI candidate, he aims to complete a trilogy of fully hand‑made watches while mentoring and collaborating within the community.
What Is A Retrograde Complication And How Does It Work?
Retrograde displays replace circular tracks with linear arcs for functions like date or day, snapping back dramatically at cycle’s end. The mechanism typically uses a snail cam to store and release energy for the reset. Designs can boost legibility by clearly marking start and end points while opening creative dial layouts. Notable examples span Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications to Longines models with multiple retrograde readouts.
WU25 Panel: How Culture Shapes Shinola’s Design Process
Shinola’s design culture blends craft, storytelling, and Detroit heritage, from sign painting to music icons like J Dilla. Products incorporate cultural motifs thoughtfully, such as cassette‑inspired cues that honor local history. The team balances audience understanding with experimentation to welcome diverse and younger customers. High‑quality execution underpins collaborations and keeps the brand’s community‑centric vision authentic.
Inside the rise of Ressence with founder Benoît Mintiens
Benoît Mintiens reflects on 15 years of Ressence, emphasizing human‑centered ergonomics and interaction over tradition for its latest advances. This year brought the brand’s first integrated titanium bracelet and artist partnerships, advancing both feel and form. Organic shapes and intuitive interfaces remain core to Ressence’s identity. Despite industry production challenges, Mintiens is optimistic about deepening roots in both watchmaking and design.
Gone Fishin’ with the Timex Hooks: A Look Back at What 1990s Horological Tech Had to Offer
The 1990 Timex Hooks packed outdoor‑ready features like a tide indicator, thermometer, compass, chronograph, and countdown in a playful, rugged package. Its green case, orange accents, and hinged‑lug construction gave it distinctive style and wear. Well‑kept examples typically run around $100–$125, but buyers should verify full function and display condition. The original tapered band with integrated compass adds both charm and utility.
Inside Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 and 9SA4 Calibers
Grand Seiko’s high‑beat 9SA5 and 9SA4 pair an 80‑hour reserve with the efficient Dual Impulse Escapement. Built at Studio Shizukuishi, the movements balance beauty, precision, and longevity without compromise. A free‑sprung balance, optimized tooth profiles, and double barrels deliver stable performance. The result sets a high bar for modern mechanical watchmaking where elegance and engineering coexist.
Event Time
A World-Class Exhibition On A. Lange & Söhne And Glashütte Watchmaking By Phillips And Dr. Helmut Crott Comes To New York
Phillips’ New York headquarters will host a curated exhibition on A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte watchmaking from December 3–5, 2025, assembled by Dr. Helmut Crott. Drawn from his collection, highlights include a 1921/1931 Bruno Reichert Flying One‑Minute Tourbillon and a 1990s A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, underscoring Glashütte’s technical artistry. Timed to the 150th anniversary of Ferdinand‑Adolph Lange’s death, the show also features complex pocket watches like the Grande & Petite Sonnerie. Open 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM, it invites New Yorkers to experience the depth and beauty of German horology.
The Latest Time
Cimier
The New Cimier 47° North Collection, a Fun and Accessible Field Watch
Cimier’s 47° North is a compact 38mm field watch with bright, highly legible dials in multiple colors and 100 meters of water resistance. The domed dial, large numerals, and orange seconds hand emphasize readability, while the ETA 2824-2 automatic keeps dependable time with a 38-hour reserve. Strap choices in smooth or suede calf leather match the dial tones for an easy daily-wear combo. Price: CHF 850 (excl. taxes).
Ferragamo
Ferragamo unveils jewel addition to Fall-Winter collection
The Crystal Petite distills Ferragamo’s architectural Crystal design into a refined 15 x 20mm rectangular form with a faceted sapphire “crystal” that plays with light. Black or white enamel-finished dials pair with interchangeable karung leather straps or a steel bracelet for versatile styling. A Swiss-made quartz movement and 30 meters of water resistance round out the jewel-like package. Price: $1,295.
Furlan Marri
Furlan Marri x CLÉ Sahra Edition
Created with CLÉ: The Gallery, the Sahra Edition evokes desert light with a golden brown and tan dial and Eastern Arabic numerals. The 316L steel case houses a Seiko VK64 mechaquartz chronograph, offering vintage charm with modern reliability and 50 meters of water resistance. Delivered with two leather straps and a sand-themed box, it’s limited to 750 pieces. Price: CHF 685.
G-Shock
Fresh mini G-Shock rings arrive just in time for Christmas
Casio shrinks the DW-5600 into one‑tenth scale “watch rings” that still display time, dual time, stopwatch, and an auto calendar on a backlit LCD. Bio-based resin cases in black, yellow, or red come with proper buckled straps, water resistance, and replaceable batteries. High demand has already pushed resale prices upward from the $110 retail. Price: $110 retail.
Heinrich
Introducing the Heinrich Radiance Guilloche
Heinrich’s Radiance Guilloche adds CNC‑patterned guilloché flair to its pared‑back 38.5mm case and vintage‑style multi‑link bracelet. The dial work provides precise texture and everyday visual punch, without the fragility of traditional engine‑turning. Limited to 50 pieces each in burgundy and turquoise, with deliveries beginning in December. Price: $1,120 (pre‑order).
Hublot
The Hublot Big Bang Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Editions
Two celebratory Big Bangs honor 20 years of Hublot’s icon and 75 years of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons: a 10‑piece All Black ceramic and a 25‑piece Titanium Grey. Both carry Arabic numerals and the in‑house Unico HUB1210 with 72 hours of power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. Bold contrasting finishes and rubber straps keep the look unmistakably Big Bang. Prices: CHF 24,900 (All Black) and CHF 21,900 (Titanium Grey).
Panerai
The new Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01783
Limited to 80 pieces online, the Luminor GMT PAM01783 packs a 40mm sandblasted black ceramic case with 300 meters of water resistance and a signature crown guard. The blue sun‑brushed sandwich dial delivers superb legibility, while the P.900/GMT automatic offers a 3‑day reserve and a second time zone. A tool‑free quick‑change system swaps between calfskin and blue rubber straps easily. Price: EUR 15,800 or USD 16,300.
Pequignet
The New Pequignet Attitude with Tiger’s Eye Stone Dial
Pequignet’s Attitude showcases a shimmering Tiger’s Eye dial in a 39mm case, with minimalist indices and refined finishing that let the stone’s character take the stage. The in‑house Calibre Initial provides a 65‑hour reserve, underscoring the brand’s focus on French manufacture and function. Leather straps by Maison Jean Rousseau complete either the steel or rose gold execution. Prices: EUR 3,500 (steel) and EUR 10,900 (rose gold).
Schaefer & Companions
Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie — Straw You Can Actually Clutch At
The Solune blends horology with fine straw marquetry by artisan Sabine Aucoulon in dials that play with light and texture. Its angular Renaissance‑inspired case in 904L steel frames an ETA 2892‑A2 automatic with a 42‑hour reserve and a star‑shaped running indicator. Offered in Argent, Bleu marine, and Sable doré, the watch is both artistic statement and technical instrument. Price: CHF 3,105.
Serica
A Hands-On Introduction To Serica’s Sophisticated And Functional Expedition Bracelet
Serica’s Expedition Bracelet combines Milanese mesh structure with articulated links and a spring‑loaded clasp for comfort and quick micro‑adjust. It pairs naturally with the 8315 Travel Chronometer but adapts to 20mm lugs broadly. The design offers a refined alternative to standard mesh while retaining daily practicality. Prices: €289 without guilloché end links, €349 with guilloché end links.
Zenith
Zenith Applies the Midas Touch to Selected Defy Skyline Models
Zenith’s Defy Skyline adds rose and yellow gold executions across time‑only, skeleton, and chronograph variants. The high‑frequency El Primero provides precision, while modular straps, luminous details, and robust construction keep daily utility intact. Openworked dials and starry motifs lend depth and brand‑distinctive flair. Price: not disclosed.
zeruzzi
The zeruzzi FAZE 1 Makes us Ponder our Condition
Zeruzzi’s Swiss‑made FAZE 1 debuts a human‑head‑inspired steel case under sapphire, powered by an ETA movement and fitted on calf leather. Thematic packaging and design speak to time as inner experience, tying form to philosophy rather than heritage. Produced within a limited order window, it signals a concept‑driven approach to modern watchmaking. Price: not disclosed.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
The Breguet Classique 7225, and the Refinement of the Magnetic Pivot
Marking Breguet’s 250th anniversary, the Classique 7225 refines the magnetic pivot concept in a more elegant 41mm case with a hand‑guilloché dial. Powered by the new 10Hz Calibre 74SC, it delivers chronometric performance rated within ±1 second per day. The magnetic‑pivot system dramatically reduces positional error, pairing cutting‑edge mechanics with traditional craftsmanship. The warm Breguet‑gold case and thoughtful detailing align the watch with the brand’s historical aesthetic while pushing precision forward.
Casio G-Shock
Casio G-Shock GA-110EVA30-7A Watch Celebrates 30th Anniversary Of EVANGELION Anime Series
G‑Shock’s GA‑110EVA30‑7A embraces EVANGELION’s vivid palette and themes while retaining the model’s hallmark durability, including 200 meters of water resistance. Powered by Casio’s 5146 module, it covers the essentials with time, calendar, and alarms. Though not individually numbered, availability is expected to be naturally limited through 2025. The result is a functional collectible that resonates with both G‑Shock fans and anime enthusiasts.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds — A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty
This midsize steel Reverso blends timeless proportions with a new guilloché dial that deepens legibility and visual texture. Measuring 40.1 by 24.4mm, it features applied Arabic numerals, blued hands, and a small seconds at 6 o’clock. Inside is the hand‑wound Calibre 822 with a 42‑hour reserve, paired with a black calfskin strap. It offers a classic look with subtle updates at a price point below comparable Tribute models.
Louis Vuitton
Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite: A Soft-Rock Watch With A Touch Of Platinum
The Escale Malachite pairs a platinum build with a richly veined malachite dial and case band, nodding to LV’s trunk‑making heritage through its lugs and markers. A 50m rating and an overhanging platinum bezel add everyday practicality to the striking stone‑dial aesthetic. The LFT023 automatic movement provides a 50‑hour reserve and a 22K rose gold micro‑rotor visible through the sapphire back. It’s an expressive, limited piece for collectors drawn to material artistry as much as watchmaking technique.
MeisterSinger
MeisterSinger Kaenos Sunburst Golden Yellow
MeisterSinger’s single‑hand Kaenos brings a playful, sporty spirit in a 40mm DLC‑treated case and a vibrant golden sunburst dial. The design encourages a relaxed reading of time while maintaining robust, daily‑wear capability. Automatic movements and varied date options cater to different preferences, and yellow calf straps amplify the bold look. Limited to 50 pieces, it’s aimed at collectors who enjoy color-forward originality.
Praesidus
Praesidus Victory Day Review: Can A Dress Watch Celebrate Military History?
The Victory Day dress watch commemorates the 80th anniversary of World War II’s end by channeling the elegant timepieces chosen by returning soldiers. At 38mm and 10.8mm thick, it’s compact and versatile, with a gold‑tone PVD case and sapphire crystal. A commemorative caseback and minimalist dial underline the theme of peace and prosperity. Powered by the Miyota 9039 and rated to 100 meters, it extends the brand beyond its military roots.
Ressence
High Optics: Ressence Type 8 Daniel Engelberg
Ressence’s Type 8 DE distills time to hours and minutes while the titanium case keeps weight to just 42 grams. The patented ROCS system delivers the brand’s signature orbital display with a thin, wearable profile. Artist Daniel Engelberg’s concentric rings create a kinetic optical effect as the dial rotates. Limited to 40 pieces per color, it fuses modern art and refined mechanics into a uniquely minimalist experience.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 42MM Blue Dial Textile Strap (Q906868J)- was bid to $5,700 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Urwerk UR-103 36MM Black Dial Leather Strap (UR-103.03)
Auction Report: Urwerk UR-103.03 – The Indie Icon That Bent Time Sideways
If you’ve ever wanted a front-row seat to the birth of contemporary independent watchmaking, the Urwerk UR-103.03 is basically your ticket stub. This example, a UR-103 in 18k white gold with black dial and leather strap, comes in “good” condition and, crucially, without box or papers. That lack of accessories will matter when we talk value, but it doesn’t change the fact that this is one of the defining shapes of 21st-century horology, and still one of the wildest ways to read the time on a wrist.
The UR-103.03 takes Urwerk’s signature satellite wandering-hours display and wraps it in a 36 x 50 mm white gold case with the “targa” style sapphire opening that exposes the orbiting hour satellites as they sweep along the minute scale at the bottom of the dial. Three rotating hour carriers take turns gliding across the 0–60 minute track, so you get a kind of mechanical comet trail instead of traditional hands. On the reverse, the caseback is where Urwerk hides the real nerdery: a control board with small seconds, a power-reserve indicator and the brand’s hallmark user-adjustable fine-tuning screw, allowing the owner to trim the rate by roughly ±30 seconds per day. It’s all driven by the hand-wound calibre 3.03, with about 43 hours of power reserve, and finished off with a leather strap that keeps the whole spaceship surprisingly wearable.
Historically, the UR-103 family is where Urwerk truly became Urwerk. Launched in the early 2000s (the first UR-103.01 in 2003), it set the design DNA that would carry the brand for the next two decades: satellite hours, sculptural cases, and the idea that a mechanical watch could be more starship than pocket-watch remake. The UR-103.03 in particular is often singled out as the variant that really “opened up” the wandering-hours display visually, thanks to that larger targa crystal and the engraved case flanks. Collectors and commentators routinely describe the 103 as a landmark piece that helped define “contemporary horology” alongside the early work of brands like Richard Mille, and it remains a touchstone reference for anyone diving into independents.
On the market side, the pricing story is a mix of original sticker shock and today’s more approachable, but still serious, numbers. Period retail for a white-gold UR-103.03 was around $70,000–$72,000. Dealer asks today for white-gold 103.03s with box and papers tend to span roughly the high-$20ks up into the $40k+ zone, depending on condition and completeness; you can find examples offered in the $27,000–$47,000 range at specialist pre-owned dealers and platforms. Auction data give a more grounded picture: EveryWatch shows a UR-103.03 estimated around $15,000–$20,000 in one sale, with a platinum/titanium UR-103.03 bringing about $31,700 at Ineichen in December 2024, while broader UR-103 variants have been hammering in the low-$30ks and up to around $50k for especially desirable configurations at top houses like Phillips.
This specific watch is listed in good condition, but without box or papers, which knocks it down a step versus the full-set examples in those comps. The Grailzee listing confirms the basics—white-gold case, black dial, leather strap, manual-wind movement, no accessories—and positions it as a straight, honest wearer rather than a safe-queen investment piece. Given recent auction results in the $30k–$32k zone for UR-103.03 and related references with boxes and papers, plus dealer asks in the mid-$20ks and above, a realistic fair-market band for this watch, as offered, is probably in the low-to-mid-$20,000s, with an outside chance of creeping higher if two bidders decide they must have this reference and aren’t box-and-papers sensitive.
With the auction closing at 9:12 pm on Friday, November 28, 2025, this feels like one of those lots that will attract a small but very serious pool of indie collectors who understand exactly what they’re looking at. For a buyer, anything meaningfully below $25,000 would look like strong value for a foundational Urwerk in precious metal, even with the paperwork gap, while pushing much beyond the low-$30ks would mean you’re paying close to recent full-set auction money for a naked watch. Either way, whoever wins will end up with a milestone of independent watchmaking on the wrist—one that still looks like it arrived from the future, even though it helped define the present.
Current bid: $7,500