BuyingTime Daily - November 26, 2025
1916 jumps into the Birkin game, Blancpain goes sonic, G-Shock pops again, and JLC headlines tonight’s auction. No issue tomorrow—Happy Thanksgiving!
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 26, 2025
The day before Thanksgiving is usually reserved for two things: travel misery and trying to get out of the office early, but the watch world clearly didn’t get the memo. Today’s news cycle arrived fully caffeinated, led by The 1916 Company, which has now decided that watches and jewelry simply weren’t enough. The group is moving into the Hermès Birkin business with its acquisition of Luxury In Reach, bringing authenticated handbags—think Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci—under the same roof as tradeable steel sports watches. This is either a masterstroke or the most expensive impulse buy ever made. Prices will run from $15,000 to $165,000, which means your next Birkin may cost more than a used Patek. Lauren Lynch Schuster is running the division, and the goal is simple: create one luxury destination where you can get a Nautilus and a Birkin without judgment. Good luck to everyone’s wallets.
Meanwhile Rado is leaning hard into Australia’s summer of sport with Ash Barty and Cameron Green fronting “The Rhythm Within,” a campaign focused on precision over pyrotechnics. It highlights Barty’s Centrix Automatic Diamonds and Green’s Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph, a pairing that screams “classy but athletic,” which is pretty much Rado’s brand DNA. G-Shock and Bamford London are back with collaboration number three—this time taking the classic 5600 and rebuilding it with a steel case and bright-blue accents. They’re even opening a Konbini-inspired pop-up in London next week where you can score early access and, naturally, matching apparel.
On the high-horology front, Blancpain decided that ordinary watchmaking just wasn’t enough and unveiled the Grand Double Sonnerie 15GSQ—the world’s first grande sonnerie with selectable melodies—alongside a dazzling lineup that ranges from new Villeret dress watches to a Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in “Blue Abyss” ceramic. Hamilton kept things lighter with its NYC Call of Duty pop-up, offering UV-flashlight missions and gaming stations for the launch of the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Special Edition. Dubai Watch Week wrapped with 49,000 attendees and everything from the Urwerk × Ulysse Nardin UR-FREAK to the wildly sculptural new pieces from Ressence, cementing its status as the most enjoyable watch gathering on earth.
History-minded readers get a treat with Breguet’s Marie Antoinette No. 160, valued at north of $100 million and still somehow managing to feel underappreciated despite its 23 complications and museum-grade backstory. And for collectors who like to complicate things further, the Gerd Ahrens feature reminds us that the line between passion and obsession is very thin—and usually made of polished metal.
Today’s new releases bring even more variety. Fears teamed with Ace Jewelers for a Mondrian-inspired Brunswick 38 that hides its hour markers in the artwork. Chanel unveiled a five-piece limited ring watch that is half Roaring Twenties cocktail ring, half haute-joaillerie micromachine. Chronoswiss resurrected the Digiteur in a dramatic rectangular case, while De Bethune’s DB25 Perpetual Sky once again reminds everyone that cosmic poetry is a legitimate design category. Depancel introduced a crisp motorsport chronograph, G-Shock returned for another Bamford cameo, Grøne unveiled a surprisingly accessible chronograph powered by La Joux-Perret, Hvilina went full train-themed kinetic whimsy, HYT built a cigar-inspired hydromechanical piece, Panerai dropped a vintage-coded Luminor Marina, Peren pushed out an aggressively priced Swiss tool watch, and Zenith delivered a Lupin-the-Third-inspired Chronomaster in microblasted titanium.
On the review side, Armin Strom’s One Week Skeleton shows that skeletonization can still feel fresh in rose gold, Tissot brings an 84-gram titanium PRX that hits the sweet spot at 38mm, and Watchdives asks whether a $94 diver can compete with the Tudor Black Bay—shockingly, in many ways, yes.
And in podcast land, Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar gets a full historical tour via Hairspring, while Fratello debates the greatest dive watches of all time—Rolex, Seiko, Omega, Doxa, Sinn, and other usual depth-rated suspects.
Finally, in the auction world, yesterday’s Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Star Wheel didn’t meet its reserve at $42,500, so yes, you can still try your luck. Tonight’s star lot is the 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date in blue, a like-new full set currently bid to $5,150, and featured in today’s full Auction Report.
And one scheduling note: There is no Buying Time issue on Thursday, Thanksgiving Day, November 27, 2025 in the U.S. We’ll be back Friday—hopefully with lower blood pressure and fewer carbs.
News Time
1916 Company buys into the Hermès Birkin business
The 1916 Company, formed from three family jewelers and WatchBox, is expanding into designer handbags with the acquisition of Luxury In Reach. The goal is to build a single luxury destination where authenticated, refurbished handbags are offered with the same standards as watches and jewelry. Led by co-founder Lauren Lynch Schuster, the division will feature Hermès Birkins priced from $15,000 to $165,000, plus Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci. Handbags will be available online and in select showrooms, with personalized sourcing and service.
Rado’s Ash Barty & Cameron Green-led summer campaign
Rado has launched a global campaign, “The Rhythm Within,” fronted by Australian stars Ash Barty and Cameron Green. The narrative ties the patience, precision, and balance of elite sport to Rado’s ethos, highlighting Barty’s Centrix Automatic Diamonds and Green’s Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph. With Australia’s summer of sport ahead, the campaign underscores quiet confidence and measured performance rather than hype. CEO Adrian Bosshard frames rhythm as the foundation of both achievement and design.
Feature Time
All the Blancpain 2025 Releases: The World’s First Grand Double Sonnerie and More
Blancpain’s 2025 lineup spans high horology and everyday elegance, headlined by the Grand Double Sonnerie 15GSQ, the world’s first grande sonnerie with selectable melodies. The collection also brings the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in a vivid “Blue Abyss” ceramic, a refreshed generation of Villeret dress watches, and smaller 38.2mm Fifty Fathoms models. Ladybird Colors extends Blancpain’s refined women’s offering, while a Swatch collaboration introduces more accessible options. These diverse releases highlight Blancpain’s commitment to innovation, craftsmanship, and luxury.
Inside the Hamilton x Worn & Wound Call of Duty NYC Pop-Up Event
Hamilton and Worn & Wound celebrated the launch of the Call of Duty Special Edition Khaki Field Auto 38mm with an immersive New York City pop‑up. The space featured gaming stations, themed gear, and an optical‑illusion installation by artist Michael Murphy, plus curated EDC essentials tied to the watch. Guests completed a UV‑flashlight “mission” to uncover a hidden code for a chance to win a gaming console. After Thanksgiving, the venue transitions into a Hamilton holiday experience that keeps the brand’s enthusiast community engaged.
Top 10 watches from Dubai Watch Week 2025
Dubai Watch Week 2025 welcomed a record 49,000 attendees and more than 90 brands, celebrated for its open, hospitable atmosphere that promotes interaction. Standout launches ranged from the Urwerk × Ulysse Nardin UR‑FREAK and Girard‑Perregaux’s Laureato Three Gold Bridges to Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Winter editions and Ressence’s Type 1 Round. The event’s energy and intimate access to independents contrasted with Geneva’s more subdued tone. It underscored DWW’s status as a premier destination for both high‑end craftsmanship and innovative design.
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: Breguet’s Marie Antoinette Watch and Its Impact on Horology
Commissioned in 1783 and completed decades later, Breguet No. 160 (“Marie Antoinette”) embodies 18th‑century ambition with 23 complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Though never delivered to the queen, it became a touchstone for modern watchmaking and is valued at over $100 million. Its legend deepened after a 1983 museum theft and a dramatic recovery in 2006–2007, adding intrigue to its technical stature. The watch remains a benchmark for artistry, precision, and innovation in horology.
Complicated Collectors: Gerd Ahrens
Gerd Ahrens, a Swiss watchmaker born in 1920, built a significant collection of over 550 pocket watches, focusing on rare escapements to document the evolution of mechanical precision. His meticulous approach combined technical expertise with scholarly research, resulting in a comprehensive catalogue that serves as a key reference in horological literature. Ahrens’ legacy emphasizes collecting as an intellectual pursuit, preserving the craftsmanship and history of watchmaking, while his collection continues to influence collectors and scholars alike.
The Latest Time
Ace Jewelers X Fears
The Ace Jewelers X Fears Brunswick 38 ‘De Stijl’ Edition Celebrates A Dutch Art Movement With Secret Hour Markers
This limited edition collaboration marks Ace Jewelers’ 50th anniversary with a Mondrian-inspired dial that cleverly hides the hour markers within the artwork. Based on the Fears Brunswick, it uses a manually-wound Swiss movement and a 38mm stainless steel case for elegant, everyday wear. The design prioritizes visual impact and craft over outright legibility, making it a collector-forward piece. Priced at €3,400, it blends functional watchmaking with bold, gallery-worthy aesthetics.
Chanel
Chanel Ring Watch “The Lion of Mademoiselle”
Chanel commemorates the Roaring Twenties with an 18k yellow gold ring watch set with 357 diamonds and a hidden dial beneath a sculptural lion’s head. The lion references Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign, while a black lacquer over onyx dial keeps time via a high-precision quartz movement. Modeled after 1920s cocktail rings, it balances high jewelry opulence with discreet timekeeping. Limited to five pieces worldwide, it’s a rare intersection of haute joaillerie and horology.
Chronoswiss
Chronoswiss Brings Back the Digiteur
Chronoswiss revives its mechanical digital-display icon in a rectangular 48mm steel case with refined finishing and era-evoking disc indications for hours and minutes. Powered by the hand-wound Caliber C.85758 with a 48-hour reserve, it’s offered in Granit (anthracite) and Sand (warm gold-toned) executions. The design updates typefaces and textures while preserving the Digiteur’s kinetic charm. Limited to 99 pieces, it is priced at $15,200.
De Bethune
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky. Where Cosmic Poetry Meets Perpetual Precision
A blued titanium dial becomes a celestial tableau with hand-set white gold “stars,” laser-engraved Milky Way, and gilt leaf inlays. A highly accurate 3D moonphase sphere at 12 o’clock deviates by only one day every 122 years, paired with a legible perpetual calendar on blue discs. The mirror-polished yellow gold hands and silvered chapter ring elevate legibility and elegance. Limited in production, it merges high watchmaking with genuine cosmic artistry.
Depancel
The New Depancel Allure Black Tangerine Chronograph
Limited to 50 pieces, this 43mm stainless steel chronograph leans into classic motoring cues with a black PVD dial and high-contrast orange indicators. The ETA 7753 automatic movement provides a 54-hour reserve, quick-reading subdials, and a date display, with 100m water resistance for daily versatility. A box sapphire crystal, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet or French bull leather strap round out the package. Priced at €2,400 / $2,400, it delivers strong value with motorsport character.
G-Shock
G-Shock And Bamford London Collaborate On Third watch
The third G-Shock × Bamford London drops in the classic 5600 silhouette but upgrades to a more durable steel case and playful blue accents. It preserves the G-Shock toolkit—200m water resistance, shock resistance, EL backlight, alarm, countdown timer, and stopwatch—for real-world utility. A Konbini-inspired pop-up in Central London (Dec 5–8) offers early access alongside special packaging and apparel. The general online release follows on December 9.
Grone
The Grøne Moment Meter, The Grönefeld Brothers’ Take on the Accessible Chronograph
Grøne Oldenzaal, the Grönefeld brothers’ new venture, introduces the 39mm Moment Meter with a hand-wound La Joux-Perret movement and 60-hour reserve. Its sunray salmon dial, pulsometer scale, and polished markers channel vintage elegance in a modern steel case with sapphire crystals. Limited to 300 pieces, it aims to capture life’s “moments” in a more accessible package without sacrificing detail. Priced at €3,490 (excl. taxes and shipping), orders open December 3 with deliveries from January.
Hvilina
Hvilina Does the Locomotion with the New L&MR Rainhill Trails
A playful tribute to the 1829 Rainhill Trials, the L&MR Rainhill Trails uses two miniature trains to indicate hours and minutes over a skeletonized dial. The 41.2mm watch houses a Sellita SW200 automatic movement and pairs historic cues with modern construction and sapphire. Available in four versions, each limited to 500 pieces, the design balances fun storytelling with practical specifications. Pre-order pricing is €1,100.
HYT
HYT S1 5N Gold Titanium Cigare
Limited to eight pieces, the S1 5N Gold Titanium Cigare fuses HYT’s hydromechanical fluidic display with a cigar-inspired palette and finishing. Its caliber 501-CM offers a 72-hour reserve, while the presentation case includes Hulecos’ H1 device to measure cigar moisture content. The concept links precision timekeeping with refined cigar culture for a complete luxury experience. It is priced at CHF 78,000 before taxes.
Panerai
The Vintage-Inspired Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01759
This 44mm stainless steel Luminor revives vintage military-diver codes with a domed sapphire crystal, matte black sandwich dial, and full Arabic numerals in green Super‑LumiNova. Inside, the in‑house P.9010 runs three days and adds independent hour setting in a slim profile. Delivered on a brown vintage‑style calf strap with a spare black rubber strap, it’s limited to 1,000 pieces with 300m water resistance. Priced at €9,900 / $10,200, availability begins December 2025.
Peren
Peren Regia Lunar Eclipse Dark Review: An Aggressively Priced Modern 39mm Swiss Tool Watch
A stealthy 39mm DLC-coated case, minimalist dial, and high-contrast markers give the Regia Lunar Eclipse Dark a purposeful, modern tool-watch vibe. The Sellita SW-200 automatic beats at 4Hz with roughly a two-day power reserve, and 200m water resistance adds real utility. Two strap options—FKM rubber and NATO—simplify daily wear, though the date aperture is modest. Retail is 777 CHF, positioning it as an attainable Swiss-made sports watch.
Zenith
The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition
Inspired by the Lupin the Third character, this 37mm microblasted titanium Chronomaster Revival pairs a beige dial with black registers and ruthenium-plated, Super‑LumiNova hands. The in-house El Primero 400 runs at 36,000 vph with a 50-hour reserve and is visible under a sapphire back etched with Jigen’s silhouette. Limited to 200 pieces, it debuts at Isetan Shinjuku before wider boutique and retailer rollout. Pricing is CHF 10,400 or JPY 1,430,000.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Armin Strom
Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Rose Gold
This limited edition showcases Armin Strom’s mastery of skeletonization with an 18K rose gold 41mm case framing the meticulously openworked ARM21-S calibre. Twin barrels deliver a steady seven-day power reserve, while the minimalist dial layout keeps attention on the mechanics and small seconds. A contemporary black textile strap balances the watch’s technical elegance with everyday wearability. Limited to 50 pieces and priced at CHF 47,000, it’s a statement of visible horology and refined craftsmanship.
Tissot
Hands-On With The Lightweight Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm
The PRX Titanium 38mm brings a lighter, more compact take to the beloved integrated-bracelet line with a brushed titanium case and bracelet. An anthracite dial paired with rose-gold luminous hands and indexes creates a cohesive, warm monochrome look that softens the geometry. At only 84 grams, it wears effortlessly while housing the Powermatic 80 caliber with an 80-hour reserve and sapphire display back. This size fills the gap for enthusiasts who found the 40mm version a touch large, keeping the PRX fresh and versatile.
Watchdives
Watchdives WD7922 Review: Can This Affordable Dive Watch Compete with the Tudor Black Bay?
At just $94, the WD7922 delivers a vintage-inflected diver aesthetic with a brushed case, matte black dial, gilt accents, and a well-executed bezel. Inside, the reliable Seiko VH31 quartz offers a smooth sweep and impressive accuracy, gaining only two seconds over two weeks in testing. The bracelet provides solid comfort and fit for the money, with easy strap‑swap versatility. Thoughtful finishing and proportions make this homage stand on its own as a value‑driven daily diver.
Watching Time
The Rolex Legacy: An Afternoon with Watch Legend James Dowling (Part 1)
A Closer Look At The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie
BEST 3 Watch Collection in Dubai! $10,000 / $50,000 and No Budget
Talking Time
Hairspring
This podcast episode provides a detailed chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar, highlighting significant references such as the 1526, 2497, and 3448 models, along with lesser-known pieces like the 96 QP and 1527. It emphasizes the importance of the perpetual calendar in establishing Patek Philippe’s reputation and includes links to various resources for further exploration of these timepieces.
Fratello On Air: The Greatest Dive Watches Of All Time
The podcast episode discusses the greatest dive watches of all time, highlighting iconic models like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko Tuna, and Omega PloProf. The hosts share their personal picks and emphasize the evolution of dive watches from functional tools to popular fashion items. They also mention other notable brands such as Doxa and Sinn, inviting listeners to share their thoughts on the selections.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2024 Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Star Wheel 41MM Aventurine Dial Textile Strap (15212NB.OO.A002KB.01) - was bid to $42,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 42MM Blue Dial Textile Strap (Q906868J)
Auction Report: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date “Blue Double Gradient” (Q906868J)
The 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 42MM Blue Dial Textile Strap (Q906868J) coming up tonight is one of those lots that reminds you how good modern JLC can be when it leans into its own history. The seller represents the watch as being in like-new condition with boxes (inner and outer), additional items, and papers dated May 31, 2025, so you’re effectively looking at a very fresh, full-set example with most of its factory warranty life still ahead of it.
The Polaris Date is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s contemporary tribute to the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch, borrowing its internal rotating timing bezel, bold Arabic numerals and sport-tool personality, but updating everything else for a modern daily-wear sports watch. The 42mm stainless-steel case follows the current Polaris design language: sharp lines, slim bezels, a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and a sapphire display back that shows off the manufacture calibre inside. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters, which means this isn’t just a “desk diver”; it can actually do vacation duty without complaint.
What really makes this reference special is the dial. The “Blue Double Gradient” Polaris Date is a boutique-style execution whose lacquered dial uses multiple finishes—opaline on the flange, grained on the index ring, and sunray in the center—to create depth and to separate the various zones of information. The color shifts from a deep navy at the edge to a lighter, brighter blue toward the center, with the orange triangle at 12 o’clock on the inner bezel and generously lumed Arabic numerals and markers providing both contrast and legibility. In person, it reads more “modern compressor diver” than vintage re-issue, which is exactly the point.
Inside is the latest-generation Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899, a fully in-house automatic movement designed, decorated and assembled at the Grande Maison. This family of movements has been updated in recent years to provide nearly three days of power reserve while maintaining a relatively slim profile. Combined with the 42mm case and curved lugs, it gives you a watch that has proper wrist presence but doesn’t feel top-heavy. The included textile strap (in the Polaris catalogue you’ll also see rubber/strap options for this reference) keeps the overall vibe sporty and casual, and it’s easily swapped onto rubber or a bracelet if you want to dress it up or down.
On the history side, this “Blue Double Gradient” Polaris Date first appeared as a U.S.-exclusive boutique edition limited to 800 pieces, priced around $8,250 at launch in 2019 before it became more widely available. The watch was explicitly positioned by Jaeger-LeCoultre as a modernized, everyday-wearable echo of the original Memovox Polaris, trading the alarm complication for a date and cleaner layout while keeping the dual-crown internal bezel architecture. Collectors who like heritage pieces without faux-vintage gimmicks have generally gravitated to this model as one of the most attractive contemporary Polaris references.
Retail pricing today sits firmly in “serious luxury sports watch” territory. Multiple authorized retailers and brand boutiques quote the Polaris Date Blue (Q906868J) at approximately $12,500 USD. That sets the ceiling for what a brand-new boutique example costs if you walk in off the street. On the secondary market, the story is more interesting. WatchCharts currently pegs the pre-owned market estimate for this reference around $7,700 in new or like-new condition, with roughly 35 recorded sales in the past year and a median time to sell of just over 22 days—healthy turnover without being flipper fuel. Individual dealer and platform listings back that up: a 2023-dated example is offered at $7,850, while other pre-owned pieces cluster in the mid-$7,000s to mid-$8,000s, depending on condition and completeness.
So where does that leave tonight’s auction? Given the like-new condition, full set, and very recent 2025 warranty card, this is effectively top-of-market quality for a pre-owned Polaris Date. The rational value band, using current secondary-market data, probably runs from the mid-$7,000s up to around $8,000–$8,200 all-in. Anything in that range represents roughly a 35–40% discount to current retail while still reflecting the strong demand this reference enjoys. If bidding stalls in the low-to-mid $7,000s, buyers can feel they’ve captured both the boutique-edition look and nearly full warranty at a meaningful savings to list. Pushing much beyond the high-$8,000s would start to compress that discount to the point where a new piece from an AD begins to make more sense, especially if a buyer values the first-owner experience.
In collecting terms, the 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date Q906868J is a compelling proposition: a modern, fully in-house sports watch with genuine historical roots, a technically current movement, and a dial that doesn’t look like anything else in its segment. With the auction ending tonight at 6:00 p.m. on Wednesday, November 26, 2025, it will be interesting to see whether bidders price in the boutique-style mystique and fresh warranty, or whether someone manages to sneak away with what could be one of the better value plays in the contemporary dive-adjacent space.
Current bid: $5,150