BuyingTime Daily - November 24, 2025
Bold releases, big Dubai energy, and Rolex, Omega, Tudor, and more driving late-2025 hype. Color, complications, and collector buzz close the year strong.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – November 24, 2025
If late 2025 needed a color palette, Fratello basically handed us the paint box. From Grand Seiko’s vivid purple U.F.A. SLGB005 to the eggshell serenity of Lebois & Co’s Heritage Chronograph and the playful anime vibes of Zenith, the year’s final stretch is leaning hard into bold dials, sharp finishing, and complications that don’t take themselves too seriously. Even Nomos got in on the purple party, just in case minimalism needed a mood swing.
Meanwhile, Dubai Watch Week 2025 appears to have decided subtlety is overrated. A bigger venue, a louder schedule, and—most shockingly—a rare public appearance from Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who waded into the Apple Watch conversation like the world’s calmest referee. Product launches ran from statement pieces like TAG Heuer’s Monaco Chronograph to crowd pleasers such as Tudor’s 36mm Ranger, proving that everything from ultra-luxury to starter-enthusiast is fair game under the Dubai skyline.
The fair’s top-ten recap read like a mechanical victory parade: Arnold & Son’s constant-force tourbillon, Chopard’s L.U.C Grand Strike drama, Daniel Roth in full platinum form, and a left-field collaboration between Ulysse Nardinand Urwerk. If Dubai wanted to cement itself as a launchpad for horology’s next wave, mission accomplished. And for anyone craving unconventional artistry, Roger Dubuis, Armin Strom, and Louis Vuitton pushed materials, skeletonization, and whimsy into territory where “why not?” is the governing design principle.
On the review front, Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date reminded everyone that a square case can still be cool, especially when backed by an in-house flyback caliber and a price tag that favors individuality over conformity. And the eternal debate rages on as Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M squares up against the Rolex Submariner 124060, with the Sub still taking the win on restraint and refinement while Omega flexes modern swagger and deep-sea bravado. The verdict: personal taste remains undefeated.
Collectors continued to prove sentimentality is a feature, not a bug, with a full-circle story about finally buying an Issey Miyake TO just because design can matter more than movement specs. And if you’re hunting vintage, online finds from Seiko, Omega, and Enicar delivered the usual mix of charm, condition quirks, and “maybe I should bid” temptation.
New releases kept rolling in from all corners: Atelier Wen blending Chinese and Middle Eastern aesthetics, Bulgari teaming up with Mattar Bin Lahej on a laser-engraved Octo Finissimo, De Bethune flipping its dual-faced GMT magic, and Perrelet, Frederique Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Kudoke, Movado, and Vanguart each dropping pieces that prove innovation comes in every size, price, and level of audacity.
And yes—Dubai brought the fire (literally, if you count marketing) with more than 90 brands lighting up the Burj vicinity, including a rare lightning-bolt moment from Rolex and a thunderous complication reveal from Chopard. The independents of the AHCI also stepped into the spotlight, underscoring that small workshops and big ideas are still very much the future.
In the “real life meets wrist life” department, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar found itself center stage in a culinary identity crisis involving hamburgers, proving once again that haute horology pairs well with existential angst. And for pure fun, Spinnaker turned Popeye’s arms into watch hands because, frankly, why shouldn’t they?
As always, the market keeps churning, YouTube keeps yelling, and everyone keeps asking whether Tudor just beat somebody, whether Omega just dethroned something, and whether Grand Seiko deserves more love. Spoiler: probably yes on all three, depending on who you ask.
Onward to tomorrow—because somewhere out there, another limited edition is being announced before you can even finish reading this sentence.
News Time
Fratello’s Top 5 Late Highlights Of 2025 — Featuring Grand Seiko, Lebois & Co, Nomos, And More...
Fratello spotlights five notable late-2025 releases that showcase fresh design and technical craft. Picks include Grand Seiko’s U.F.A. SLGB005 with a vivid purple gradient dial and Spring Drive precision, and Lebois & Co’s Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” with a beautifully executed eggshell-tone dial. Also featured are the adventure-ready Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT and a purple-dial Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, along with the anime-inspired Zenith Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition. Together they reflect current trends in finishing, color, and complication across price tiers.
Dubai Watch Week 2025 is on a whole other level
This year’s Dubai Watch Week stepped up with a larger venue, extended hours, and a programming slate centered on watch culture and industry dialogue. A rare panel appearance by Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour addressed the Apple Watch’s place versus traditional watchmaking, underscoring the continuing value of mechanical craft. On the product front, launches spanned from luxe statements like TAG Heuer’s Monaco Chronograph to fan-favorite, accessible releases including Tudor’s 36mm Ranger case. Nighttime skyline launches and a steady cadence of updates cement the fair as a must-visit for enthusiasts.
Feature Time
Recap: The 10 Best Watches Launched at Dubai Watch Week 2025
Dubai Watch Week’s 10th anniversary delivered a slate of headline pieces, from Arnold & Son’s Constant Force Tourbillon 11 Platinum to Chopard’s L.U.C Grand Strike and Daniel Roth’s Tourbillon Platinum. Limited editions and technical showcases included the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC x Seddiqi and H. Moser & Cie’s Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite. Tudor’s Ranger Dune White and the Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk UR-Freak collaboration rounded out a diverse field that blended design bravado with mechanical innovation. The releases underscored the fair’s growing role as a launchpad for cutting-edge horology.
The Flyback: Dubai Watch Week Edition!
A luxury-leaning selection from Dubai Watch Week highlighted the Roger Dubuis Hommage ‘Sukoon Al-Layl,’ a one-off platinum piece that evokes desert tranquility with a biretrograde perpetual calendar. Armin Strom’s One Week Skeleton in rose gold showcased visible mechanics and hand finishing, while Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin’s whimsical “Unfrogettable” kept regulator functionality with a playful face. Gérald Genta’s larger Gentissima Oursin introduced a meteorite dial, and Raúl Tena’s Pearl Diver fused sculpture and enamel artistry. Louis Vuitton’s stone-dial Escales in malachite and turquoise pushed material experimentation further.
Chatting with Armin Strom on the new Tribute 1 and Mirrored Forced Resonance
Serge Michel introduces the new Tribute 1 in green, focusing on design, proportion, and finishing. Claude Greisler dives into the Mirrored Force Resonance in gold, explaining how the synchronization system elevates chronometric performance. Together they outline the brand’s approach to blending visual clarity with technical depth. The video captures both the aesthetic intent and the mechanical ingenuity behind the releases.
How this Glashütte Original stands out from the crowd
The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date breaks from round-watch convention with a rounded-square case and an integrated, in-house flyback chronograph caliber. Its dial integrates a large Panorama Date, applied indices, power reserve, and a scrolling hour display in a balanced layout. Color-forward variants, from yellow to pink, inject personality without sacrificing sophistication. Starting at A$22,300, the watch remains a distinctive and practical alternative in the chronograph space.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
The Planet Ocean 600M presents modern styling and robust depth ratings, but is critiqued for a busier dial and a less refined clasp. The Submariner, as the established benchmark, earns praise for its design hierarchy, legibility, and overall polish. The debate weighs heritage and everyday luxury against tool-watch credentials and contemporary aesthetics. Ultimately, it comes down to whether one values Rolex’s timeless restraint or Omega’s assertive modernity.
A watch collecting full circle moment
A lifelong watch enthusiast finally acquires the Issey Miyake TO, a design-first piece that sparked their early fascination with horology. The purchase, made during a meaningful trip to Japan, celebrates aesthetics and tactile satisfaction over mechanical purity. Despite its quartz movement, the TO’s comfort and design reaffirm the value of following personal taste. The story champions authenticity and the artistry found beyond complication counts.
Exclusive Video: Lightning from Rolex, Fire from Chopard, and 90+ Brands Lighting Up Dubai Watch Week 2025!
Dubai Watch Week brings more than 90 brands to the Burj Khalifa vicinity, creating a high-energy showcase of releases and presentations. Highlights include a rare address by Rolex CEO Jean Frédéric Dufour and Chopard’s unveiling of its most complex L.U.C Grand Strike. On-the-ground coverage captures the atmosphere and rapid-fire news as the fair unfolds. The event’s scale and momentum make it a focal point for collectors and media alike.
Keris MECA01 and Winding PUSH
This year’s Dubai Watch Week raised the bar with a larger venue and program emphasizing culture and conversation. Panels with industry leaders, including Rolex’s Jean-Frédéric Dufour, tackled topics like smartwatches versus traditional craft. Product highlights stretched from TAG Heuer and Chopard statements to Tudor’s crowd-pleasing 36mm Ranger case. Evening launches and extended hours amplified the fair’s magnetism across price tiers and tastes.
Independent Succession: Meet The Five Candidates Of The AHCI
Five emerging independents affiliated with the AHCI illustrate the movement’s artisanal resilience amid industry scale. Their backgrounds—from astronomy to banking—feed distinct approaches, from celestial timekeepers to full in-house builds. The AHCI’s mentorship and visibility help preserve traditional skills while encouraging experimentation. Together they signal a fertile future for small, craft-driven workshops.
It’s Complicated: A Vacheron Constantin Overseas And Losing A Fight Against Hamburgers
Chef and author Eddie Huang reflects on identity and the pressures of menu design while wearing a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar. The story juxtaposes culinary expectations—like adding a burger—with the symbolism and gravity of a high-complication watch. Negotiating authenticity versus commercial demand becomes a narrative thread through the kitchen and the wrist. The piece ultimately advocates staying true to one’s creative compass.
eBay Finds: Vintage Finds from Seiko, Omega, and More!
A curated set of vintage listings spans a Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead in excellent condition, a 1970s Aquadive diver, and a charming lapel pin watch. A military-style Gotham and a NOS Enicar Ocean Pearl add variety, while a 14k gold-filled Omega stands out for its pristine dial and unique bezel texture. Each piece carries a story, balanced by condition notes and period details. Links direct collectors to active auctions for deeper dives.
The Latest Time
Atelier Wen
The New Atelier Wen x Revolution Ancestra Yao
Atelier Wen fuses Chinese craftsmanship with Middle Eastern aesthetics in the Ancestra Yao, debuting at Dubai Watch Week 2025. The 38mm 904L steel case draws on Hongshan jade dragon forms, while a hand-worked 925 silver base and grand feu enamel create depth on the dial with Eastern Arabic numerals and lab-grown diamonds. A customized Pequignet EPM03 automatic movement provides a 65-hour power reserve and refined finishing details. Built to order from November 18–27, 2025, it is priced at EUR 5,100 with deliveries slated for late 2026.
Bulgari (Bvlgari)
A Tale of Two Cities: Roman Jeweler Bulgari Brings the Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo to Dubai Watch Week
Bulgari’s 70-piece Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo collaboration merges Italian design with Emirati calligraphy, presented under the patronage of Sheikha Latifa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. A titanium case is laser-engraved with a quote from Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, highlighting imagination and innovation. The brand’s immersive booth spotlights craftsmanship with live demonstrations and a watchmaker’s table. Pricing is not specified; this is a limited artistic edition centered on cultural dialogue.
De Bethune
A New Edition of the De Bethune Kind of Two Jumping GMT
De Bethune’s Kind of Two Jumping GMT uses a pivoting double-faced case to offer a contemporary movement-forward dial on one side and a classic anthracite GMT display on the other. The polished grade 5 titanium case features patented floating lugs and houses the hand-wound DB2517 caliber with a four-day power reserve and deadbeat seconds. The watch allows two independent time zones and is finished to the brand’s exacting standards. Price is CHF 195,000, with production limited by capacity.
Echo/Neutra
The echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo, an Impressive Follow Up to their Hit Contemporary Dress Watch
Echo/Neutra scales its Rivanera design into the compact, sporty Rivanera Piccolo at 26mm x 33mm and 6.9mm thick in lightweight titanium. The retro-modern case, sharp angles, and faceted crystal frame dial options that include “Grain de riz” guilloché and Musou Black. An automatic Sellita SW1000 brings a date at 6 o’clock and everyday reliability. The watch is priced at $1,980 and adds a ribbed rubber strap option to complete the look.
Ferdinand Berthoud
First Look: The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary
Released for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ 75th anniversary, this three-piece platinum edition showcases a domed sapphire crystal and a side porthole at 9 o’clock to reveal the cylindrical hairspring. The hand-wound calibre FB-SPC is COSC-certified, offering a 72-hour power reserve and a distinctive construction. Engraved anniversary markings and a champagne-toned dial with yellow gold hands elevate the commemorative design. Price is on request, with similar models around CHF 160,000.
Frederique Constant
Introducing: Frederique Constant Celebrates its 37th Anniversary with The Elements Collection
To mark its 37th anniversary, Frederique Constant presents five limited watches across its signature complications, each with unique stone dials so no two pieces are identical. The collection spans Classic Moonphase Date, Worldtimer, Perpetual Calendar, Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, and Classic Tourbillon, all limited to 37 pieces. Presented in a wooden box, the set blends accessibility with elevated craft. The complete set is expected to retail at approximately CHF 64,000, with individual pieces arriving in early 2026.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues
JLC debuts copper-dial Master Ultra Thin Moon and Date models in 39mm stainless steel, each with a grainy texture and classical detailing. The Moon uses calibre 925 while the Date uses calibre 899, both with a 70-hour power reserve and polished applied indexes. Interchangeable alligator straps complement the elegant, versatile designs. Prices are €12,800 for the Moon and €10,500 for the Date, each limited to 800 pieces.
Kudoke
Introducing: The Kudoke 3 Sky Blue, A New Shade for Stefan Kudoke’s Clever Multi-Hander
Stefan Kudoke’s multi-hander concept returns in a soft, frosted sky blue dial within the 39mm HANDwerk stainless steel case. The rhodinised three-sector hour plate, infinity-tipped heat-blued minute hand, and 50m water resistance maintain practicality and elegance. The hand-wound Kaliber 1, developed with Habring², provides a 46-hour power reserve with artisanal finishing. The Kudoke 3 Sky Blue is priced at EUR 11,500 and offered on leather or Alcantara.
Movado
Introducing: Movado’s 1917 Heritage Collection Finds The Future In Its Past
Movado reinterprets early wristwatch geometry with a rectangular case, stepped bezel, and stylized numerals in two sizes: 45.2mm and 34.1mm. Vibrant sunburst ombré dials in blue, green, and charcoal gray sit over Sellita automatic movements, paired with unilink bracelets or elegant straps. The aesthetic balances modern personality with archive cues to broaden appeal. Pricing ranges from $795 to $1,795.
Perrelet
Introducing: The New Perrelet x Diaa Allam Launches at Dubai Watch Week
Perrelet partners with Emirati calligrapher Diaa Allam on a 50-piece Turbine limited edition, where spinning rotor blades reveal vibrant artwork inspired by palm leaf wickerwork. The grade 2 titanium case with black DLC delivers durability and modern presence, while a COSC-certified automatic movement ensures precision. Arabic inscription details underscore the cultural collaboration alongside practical features like 100m water resistance and AR-coated sapphire. The watch is priced at CHF 5,180 with deliveries beginning April 2026.
Vanguart
First Look: The New Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon in Rose Gold
Vanguart’s Black Hole Tourbillon Rose Gold integrates case and movement into a single flowing 45mm form weighing 173 grams. A levitating flying tourbillon and concentric automaton display with linear time readout emphasize depth and motion, all driven by the 775-component T-1701 movement. Anthracite PVD titanium dial elements and an exoskeleton-fuselage architecture create a dramatic wrist presence. Limited to 8 pieces, it is priced at CHF 410,000.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Atelier Nossedh
Atelier Nossedh AN.01
Atelier Nossedh’s AN.01 is a vintage-inspired chronograph that channels the elegance of 1940s design in a compact 37mm stainless steel case. It uses a manually wound Sellita SW510 calibre with a 63-hour power reserve and a clean dual-register layout, offered in six dial variants from dark champagne to copper sunburst. Understated pump pushers, a polished bezel, and thoughtful proportions keep it dressy yet contemporary, with 50 meters of water resistance. Priced at €2,200, pre-orders run until January 30, 2026.
Circula
Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea
The Circula ProSea is a modern diver with a unique dial texture inspired by manta ray skin, designed with Guy Bove. It features a unidirectional ceramic bezel, surface-hardened 316L steel case, and 200 meters of water resistance, plus a domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating for clarity. Inside is the Swiss Sellita SW200-1a automatic with a 41-hour power reserve, available in blue, petrol, and anthracite. Pricing is €1,090 on rubber and €1,290 on the hardened stainless steel bracelet.
Spinnaker
Hands-On With The Spinnaker Challenger Automatic Popeye Anchor Arms Limited Edition
Spinnaker’s Challenger Popeye edition turns the sailor’s muscular arms into the hour and minute hands across three vibrant models. A 42mm stainless steel case, ultra-domed sapphire crystal, and 300-meter water resistance deliver bona fide dive-watch credentials, while a wave-textured dial and lume amp up the fun factor. The automatic Seiko NH35 provides a 41-hour power reserve and robust reliability for daily wear. Priced at $475, this limited run totals 1,200 pieces across the variants.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Saturday’s auction watch, the 2018 Patek Philippe Aquanaut 40MM Brown Dial Rubber Strap (5167R-001)- was bid to $65,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40MM Blue Dial White Gold Oyster Bracelet (126509)
Auction Report: The New-Blue Heavy Hitter – Rolex Daytona 126509
Rolex didn’t exactly tiptoe into 2025 with the new white-gold Daytona. Reference 126509 is the precious-metal flex that replaced the long-running 116509 and brought with it a big jump in both tech and ticket price. Retail at the boutique is currently about $51,800 in the U.S. for the white-gold Oyster-bracelet version. On top of that, this particular configuration – 40mm white gold on Oyster with the bright blue dial and contrasting chronograph registers – is the headline act of the new lineup and is already being treated as “the” white-gold Daytona to have.
The watch itself is classic modern Daytona with all the new toys. You get a 40mm 18k white-gold Oyster case with screw-down pushers, tachymeter bezel, and that mirror-like Rolex polish that makes the watch read bigger and more substantial on the wrist than the specs suggest. The bright blue sunburst dial with three sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 keeps legibility strong with luminous markers and hands while giving you that unmistakable pop that earlier blue-dial 116509s made famous – one reason those older pieces became cult favorites. The bracelet is the expected solid-link white-gold Oyster with Oysterlock clasp, and in this case the seller notes it’s been sized but includes the removed links, which is exactly what you want to see for future owners and future wrists.
Under the hood is Rolex’s new-generation caliber 4131, the movement that rolled out across the latest Daytona family. It’s essentially an evolved 4130 with Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, updated winding system and improved shock protection, maintaining a 72-hour power reserve and 4 Hz beat rate. On some 1265xx variants that means a sapphire caseback and a nice view of the newly decorated rotor; in any case, you’re buying into the current-spec Daytona architecture, which is likely to define the model for years. Compared with the outgoing 116509, the 126509 arrived with roughly a $10,000 bump in retail pricing, justified by the new movement, design tweaks and, frankly, Daytona demand plus higher gold prices.
The seller is calling the watch “new,” which, combined with 2025-dated papers, the full box and accessories, and the extra links, puts this squarely into the “fresh out of the case” category, even though it’s been sized. That’s important because we can triangulate value against the real-world market rather than just MSRP. WatchCharts currently pegs the overall market estimate for the 126509 family (across dials) around $44,700 pre-owned, noticeably under retail, signaling some normalization in Daytona pricing versus the wild pandemic era. But that’s for the reference generally; the new blue-dial 126509 is its own animal. Asking prices for 2025 blue-dial examples from established dealers are clustering in the low to mid-$60Ks, with several U.S. listings in the roughly $62,000–$66,000 range for “new/unworn” full sets. Even eBay has at least one 2025 bright-blue-dial 126509 offered around the mid-$60Ks with authenticity guarantees.
So where does that leave this auction? Given the watch’s status as THE current-generation white-gold Daytona, its 2025 papers, and effectively full bracelet, I’d treat the $51,800 retail as the floor for replacement cost and the mid-$60Ks asking prices as the aspirational dealer retail ceiling. In a rational auction, a “new but sized” piece like this landing somewhere in the mid-to-high-$50Ks would represent a fair outcome for both sides: you’re paying a premium over the generic 126509 index to get the hot blue dial and the very latest reference, but you’re not handing over the full dealer fantasy tax. Once the number starts with a 6 and has a 5 or higher after it, you’re solidly in “trophy chase” territory rather than value hunting.
As always with modern Rolex, the larger story here is Daytona’s place in the market. Ever since the model’s 1960s origins on the wrists of racing drivers and later in the mythology of Paul Newman and company, white-gold Daytonas have marked the point where tool-watch DNA crosses fully into luxury metal. The 126509 blue dial is the 2025 update to that storyline: a precious-metal sports chronograph with a thoroughly modern movement and a dial that’s built to jump off the wrist in every Instagram shot you’ll ever take. If you’ve been waiting for an excuse to move from the steel waitlist circus into the precious-metal owner’s enclosure, this is the reference the market is currently circling.
The hammer drops tonight at 8:44 pm on Monday, November 24, 2025. If you’re in the hunt, decide upfront whether you’re chasing a sensible entry into the latest-generation Daytona or you absolutely must have this blue-dial 126509 right now. Bid like it’s the former and you might come away with a strong buy in the high-$50Ks. Bid like it’s the latter and, well, just know that somewhere a Rolex AD is smiling as you push the total toward – or above – that glitzy mid-$60K asking band.
Current bid: $46,200