BuyingTime Daily - November 20, 2024
Breitling revives legends, TAG Heuer melts titanium and gold, AP automates perpetuals, and Dubai Watch Week unleashes a torrent of high-octane releases.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 20, 2025
Dubai Watch Week has turned into the Olympics of horological flexing, and this year’s opening volley came from Breitling, where Georges Kern revealed his new “House of Brands” strategy with the confidence of a man rearranging the chessboard mid-game. Universal Genève will be reborn as an ultra-luxury flagship, Gallet becomes the entry-level heir to Swiss heritage, and Breitling proper anchors the center. Three distinct lanes, one manufacturing backbone, and a whole new reason for collectors to argue with one another. If you needed proof that legacy revivals aren’t slowing down, here it is.
Over at TAG Heuer, the brand introduced the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1, a watch with a titanium-and-gold case structure built using Selective Laser Melting—a process that sounds exactly like what it is. Hollow lattice architecture, visible skeletonization, and a CHF 150,000 price tag that says “please don’t drop me.” It lands in December, ready for the collectors who think the standard Monaco is just too… solid.
The creativity kept rolling with Ineichen Auctioneers announcing that the one-off “White Rabbit” grand-complication wristwatch and Konstantin Chaykin’s original painting will sell together on December 13. A reversible case, sixteen complications, Wonderland-themed storytelling, and 691 components mean it’s basically horological theater—and this is your only shot at buying one publicly. At the other end of the innovation spectrum, Audemars Piguet unveiled a robotic, camera-guided setting box for the Royal Oak Perpetual, a device that corrects the entire calendar in under five minutes. The new 7136 and 7138 calibres simplify perpetual ownership to the point where even the most absent-minded collector can survive a week off the wrist.
Auction previews also picked up steam as Phillips Hong Kong spotlighted matched sets—from gem-themed Christophe Claret minute repeaters to hand-painted Meissen-dial beauties and ensembles from Patek Philippe and Glashütte Original. Meanwhile, Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 270th anniversary by reminding everyone that nobody does absurd complication counts quite like they do, revisiting milestones up to the 41-complication Solaria Ultra Grand Complication of 2025.
On the product side, it was a deluge. Biver expanded the Automatique line with new enamel and stone-dial references, while Bovet honored Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with an elaborate seven-piece Récital 30 Worldtimer. Bremont added upgraded takes on two fan favorites, Bulgari produced a sandblasted titanium Octo Finissimo limited to just ten pieces with laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy, and De Bethune went full dual-identity with the Kind of Two Jumping GMT and a celestial DB25 Perpetual Sky. Even Gérald Genta resurfaced with a larger 41mm Oursin that looks like a medieval weapon redesigned for a yacht party.
The heavy hitters kept coming: Girard-Perregaux marked the Laureato’s 50th anniversary with a Three Gold Bridges tourbillon; Laurent Ferrier delivered a perfectly serene Classic Origin Beige; Louis Vuitton got seriously stoned with malachite and turquoise Escale models; Oris refreshed the ProPilot Date with thoughtful ergonomic tweaks; Schwarz Etienne released a slim, micro-rotor 1902 GMT; and TAG Heuer doubled down with the wild Monaco Air 1. Even Tudor joined the fun with a new 36mm Ranger and a crisp Dune White dial, proving they haven’t forgotten the understated field-watch crowd. And then came the unexpected but strangely logical collab of Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin, giving the world the UR-Freak—an angular, crown-less hybrid powered by the calibre UN-241 that looks like it escaped from a sci-fi prop vault.
In the review corner, Biver, Chopard, and Daniel Roth all reminded collectors that timeless craft is still the industry’s north star. And yes, the UR-Freak earned its own deep dive for good reason: silicon, bezel-based setting, a 90-hour reserve, and unapologetic weirdness. You can also catch Tom Segura talking watches, the latest YouTube therapy sessions about overspending, and the Worn & Wound crew debating big auction results and GPHG snubs for entertainment during lunch.
Today’s auction highlight is the 2017 Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual Calendar (326-03), our featured piece tonight at 8:36 pm. A rose-gold beast with a forward-and-backward-correcting perpetual calendar, travel-ready GMT pushers, and the UN-32 calibre doing all the work, it’s one of the most functional maxi-complication travel watches ever made—and trading miles below its original mid-$50K retail. With a full set and 2017 papers, this example should sit somewhere in the low-to-mid-20s if market logic prevails. Current bid? A very eyebrow-raising $7,500.
Time keeps moving—and today, at least, it’s moving fast.
News Time
White Rabbit & “A Mad Horological Party”
Ineichen Auctioneers will offer the sole “White Rabbit” wristwatch and Konstantin Chaykin’s original painting “A Mad Horological Party” on December 13, 2025. The grand-complication watch features sixteen complications, including the first wristwatch perpetual calendar in Russian watchmaking and a reversible case with a suspended time function. With 691 components, it blends playful Wonderland-inspired storytelling with rigorous haute horlogerie. The sale represents the only chance to acquire this model publicly.
Georges Kern Unveils ‘House of Brands’ Strategy at Dubai Watch Week
Georges Kern introduced a “House of Brands” strategy that will revive Universal Genève and Gallet under Breitling’s umbrella. Gallet will relaunch in autumn 2026 as an entry-level luxury brand emphasizing accessible Swiss craft and heritage, while Universal Genève will target the ultra-luxury segment with art-forward, modern design. The plan positions each marque with a clear identity and leverages Breitling’s manufacturing credibility. Announced at Dubai Watch Week, the move gives collectors distinct lanes from tool-watch modernity to haute horlogerie.
TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco is an Impressive Achievement in Additive Manufacturing
TAG Heuer revealed the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 at Dubai Watch Week, advancing the ultra-light split-seconds concept with a dramatically re-engineered case. Using Selective Laser Melting, the hollow, honeycomb structure combines Grade 5 titanium with solid yellow gold while preserving the model’s 85-gram weight. The sapphire dial maintains legibility and shows off the intricately skeletonized architecture, echoing Formula 1 design cues. Priced at CHF 150,000, deliveries begin in December.
Feature Time
Audemars Piguet Unveils an Innovative Setting Device For its RO Perpetual
Audemars Piguet introduced an automated setting device for the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar at Dubai Watch Week 2025. When the watch stops, placing it in a special box triggers a camera-guided system that identifies the needed corrections and completes them in under five minutes. The new automatic calibres 7136 and 7138 consolidate all adjustments through a single crown while displaying the full calendar and moon phase. It’s a blend of mechanical finesse, robotics, and AI aimed at making perpetual calendars easier to live with.
Highlights: Magnificent Matched Sets at Phillips Hong Kong | SJX Watches
Phillips Hong Kong is spotlighting matched sets, led by the Concord Saratoga Splendour: four Christophe Claret minute repeaters representing diamond, sapphire, ruby, and emerald. Rare sets from Patek Philippe and Glashütte Original join the lineup, including pieces with hand-painted Meissen porcelain dials. The sale runs November 21–23, 2025, with previews November 15–23 in West Kowloon. The focus on curated sets underscores enduring collector interest in thematic horological ensembles.
Vacheron Constantin: The Maison’s 11 Most Record-Setting Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin’s legacy spans milestones from early minute repeaters to record-setting grand complications. Historic achievements include the Tour de l’Île with 16 complications and the Reference 57260 with an unprecedented 57. In 2025, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication pushed boundaries again with 41 complications and novel astronomical displays. The through line is relentless technical ambition paired with artisanal craft.
The Latest Time
Biver
Biver Launches 11 New Variants Of The ‘Automatique,’ Including New Enamel And Stone Dials
Biver expands the Automatique line with 11 new references featuring Grand Feu enamel and richly textured stone dials in precious metal cases. Each model runs the Calibre JCB-003 with a 65-hour power reserve and 80-meter water resistance. The additions lean into the current appetite for stone dials while keeping the brand’s elegant, minimalist language. Prices start at CHF 80,000 and rise to CHF 125,000, with some models listed as price on request.
Bovet
The new Bovet Recital 30 Worldtimer Seddiqi Limited Edition
Bovet marks Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a seven-piece Récital 30 Worldtimer that uses 26 city rollers, a central 24-hour disc, and day‑night indication. Offered in grade 5 titanium or 18k red gold, the Dimier-style case frames a green guilloché dial highlighting Dubai in red. The in-house calibre R30-70-001 delivers a 62-hour reserve and elegant travel utility. Pricing is CHF 68,000 in titanium and CHF 96,800 in red gold.
Bremont
Bremont unveils two upgraded fan-favourite models
Bremont introduces the Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine in a frosted 904L steel case, limited to 50 pieces and powered by the BC634 with instantaneous jumping hours. The Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-pusher adds a skeletonized grade 2 titanium variant featuring a 24-hour GMT globe and leap year sub-dial. Both watches emphasize refined mechanics and a modern, aviation-inspired design language. Availability aligns with Dubai Watch Week’s November dates.
Bulgari
The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition
Limited to 10 pieces, this 40mm sandblasted titanium Octo Finissimo bears laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy inspired by the words of H.H. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. The ultra-thin BVL 138 micro-rotor calibre offers 60 hours of power reserve, visible through a sapphire back. It retains the model’s svelte 5mm profile and 30m water resistance while adding a uniquely artistic flourish. Price is EUR 23,000.
De Bethune
De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT. Two Dials, Two Time Zones, One Extraordinary Movement
A dual‑face design presents two distinct aesthetics and time zones, both driven by a single movement in a polished grade 5 titanium case with floating lugs. The execution balances mechanical ingenuity and comfort, with meticulous finishing throughout. The configuration underscores De Bethune’s blend of technical boldness and artisanal refinement. Price is USD 235,000.
The new De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky
De Bethune marries a perpetual calendar with a titanium “night sky” dial set with white gold star pins and a 24k-gold Milky Way inlay. The hand-wound DB2005 delivers a five-day reserve, while the 40mm polished titanium case keeps proportions slender and wearable. Indicators for date, day, month, moon phase, and central time are balanced and legible. Price is CHF 125,000 (before taxes).
Gerald Genta
The Gérald Genta Genissima Oursin Goes Big With New 41mm Models (Live Pics)
Genta’s spiky Oursin returns with 41mm matte titanium cases studded with 234 polished white gold “beads” and a sporty rubber strap. A faceted octagonal crystal and pink‑emitting lume lend drama, while the Zenith Elite GG‑005 offers 50 hours of reserve. The new size pushes the watch toward everyday sportiness without diluting its eccentric character. Price is CHF 25,000.
Girard-Perregaux
The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges (Incl. Video)
Marking 50 years of Laureato, this limited 41mm edition pairs a steel case and white gold bezel with an openworked GP9620 movement and tourbillon. Finishing standards are exacting, from beveled bridges to a featherweight titanium tourbillon cage and integrated micro-rotor. The integrated bracelet maintains comfort and sporty elegance. The edition of 50 is priced at CHF 162,000, with a diamond-set version at CHF 215,000.
Laurent Ferrier
The Incredibly Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Beige
In 5N red gold with a soft beige opaline dial, the Classic Origin’s symmetry and warmth highlight javelin hands and applied markers. The hand‑wound LF 116.01 supplies an 80‑hour reserve and superlative finishing. A mocha nubuck strap completes the refined presentation. Price is CHF 43,000.
Louis Vuitton
Getting Stoned with Two New Louis Vuitton Escale Timepieces at Dubai Watch Week
Escale adds malachite and turquoise dial variants, each stone’s natural variance making every watch unique. Chronometer-certified LFT023 movements provide 50 hours of reserve, visible through open casebacks. Platinum elements across lugs, bezel, and case enhance the high-luxe execution, capped by a saffron-hued sapphire signature. These pieces underscore LV’s fusion of fashion-forward design and serious horology.
The new Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite and Turquoise, With Stone Dials and Cases - Read More >
Oris
Introducing: The Updated Oris ProPilot Date Collection, Sensible and Flight-Ready
The refreshed 41mm ProPilot Date keeps its aviation roots with cleaner lines, improved ergonomics, and textured dials in black, chalk, or moss. A screw‑in crown, 100m water resistance, and bracelet or suede strap options emphasize practical versatility. The calibre 733 runs 41 hours with a date at 6. Prices start at CHF 1,950 on suede and CHF 2,150 on bracelet.
Schwarz Etienne
The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT
In a 39mm grade 5 titanium case under 11mm thick, the 1902 GMT combines clear multi‑level dial architecture with a prominent GMT hand and small seconds. The in‑house ASE 320.00 features a flush micro‑rotor, new ball‑bearing system, and an 86‑hour reserve. Alligator straps are rubber‑lined for comfort and color‑matched to the dials. Price is CHF 19,850 (excl. taxes).
TAG Heuer
The Innovative TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1
Limited to 30 pieces, the Air 1 wields Selective Laser Melting to shape a 41mm skeletonized titanium case with laser‑cut 18k gold accents. The TH81‑00 rattrapante chronograph brings high‑frequency precision and a 65‑hour reserve, while a translucent sapphire dial preserves legibility. The look blends technical bravado with motorsport cues and modern materials. Price is CHF 150,000.
Tudor
New Dune White Dial and 36mm Case for the Tudor Ranger
Tudor adds a 36mm case and a new Dune White dial to the Ranger, complementing the 39mm option and keeping 100m water resistance and a screw‑down crown. The 36mm runs the MT5400 while the 39mm uses MT5402, with bracelet or fabric strap options. The Dune White dial features crisp black numerals and markers for a clean, vintage‑leaning look. Pricing for 36mm: EUR 3,450 (steel) or EUR 3,120 (fabric). For 39mm: EUR 3,560 (steel) or EUR 3,230 (fabric).
The Tudor Ranger, Now In 36 Millimeters And With A New ‘Dune’ White Dial - Read More >
Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin
Urwerk And Ulysse Nardin Team Up To Release The UR-Freak
A 44mm sandblasted titanium case houses a crown‑less system with time set via bezel, a central silicon oscillator, and a satellite hour display carousel. Powered by Ulysse Nardin’s calibre UN‑241, the watch winds automatically and can be wound manually. Limited to 100 pieces, it ships on yellow textured rubber or black integrated rubber. Price is $122,200.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Biver
Biver Automatique Clous de Paris
Biver’s Automatique Clous de Paris blends traditional hand‑guilloché craft with modern watchmaking in a platinum case and an 18k gold blue Clous de Paris dial. The Calibre JCB‑003‑A with a gold micro‑rotor offers refined zero‑reset seconds and meticulous finishing from anglage to perlage. The design emphasizes quality over cost, delivering simplicity on the surface with deep mechanical sophistication beneath. Price is CHF 85,000.
Chopard
Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike
Unveiled at Dubai Watch Week 2025, the L.U.C Grand Strike combines minute repeater, grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, and tourbillon into a highly sophisticated chiming wristwatch. Its 43 mm ethical 18k white gold case showcases a movement that is both chronometer‑certified and Poinçon de Genève compliant. Dual power‑reserve indications and an open presentation of key components highlight the engineering depth. Price is CHF 780,000.
Daniel Roth
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon In Platinum
This third‑generation Daniel Roth Tourbillon adopts a cool, monochrome aesthetic in a platinum double‑ellipse case measuring 38.6 × 35.5 mm and only 9.2 mm thick. The manually wound DR001 is displayed through a sapphire back with classic finishes such as Côtes de Genève and gold chatons. Grey‑toned, hand‑finished guilloché elevates the dial, now produced in‑house at La Fabrique du Temps. Price is CHF 185,000.
Urwerk
In-Depth: The Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-FREAK, an Unexpected Collab with a Stunning Result
The UR‑FREAK fuses Ulysse Nardin’s Freak architecture with Urwerk’s wandering‑hour satellites in a 44 mm sandblasted titanium case without a crown. Time is set via the rotating bezel, while the co‑developed Calibre UN‑241 integrates silicon and DIAMonSil components. With a 90‑hour power reserve and limited production of 100 pieces, it captures both brands’ avant‑garde spirit. Price is CHF 100,000.
Ulysse Nardin And URWERK Create The UR-FREAK Watch - Read More >
Watching Time
Rolex Won’t Like This… Omega & Tudor’s NEW Watches
I Spent WAY Too Much… My 2025 Watch Collection
Why is Omega’s New Planet Ocean a Perfect Tribute Seamaster ?
Nomos Club Worldtimer Review: The good, the bad, the bauhaus
This Microbrand Diver Embarrasses Watches 3x the Price!
Finally! But Why Did It Take So Long? Formex Essence 41 Stainless!
Talking Time
Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a humorous discussion about his passion for watches, covering topics like his experiences with sales staff, collecting philosophy, and watch pairings with vehicles. The episode includes links to various watch-related content and notable mentions, showcasing a range of luxury timepieces. Listen Now>
In the latest episode of the Worn & Wound podcast, hosts Zach Kazan and Griffin Bartsch discuss the fall auction season, highlighting a particularly notable sale of an expensive steel Patek Philippe that has caught the attention of the watch community. The conversation extends to other significant timepieces that have recently been auctioned, including some that have garnered media attention and others that have flown under the radar, showcasing the diversity and excitement of the current watch market. The timing of the recording coincided with the conclusion of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony, allowing the hosts to share their immediate reactions to the evening’s winners. The discussion invites listeners to engage by sharing their thoughts on the GPHG results, including any perceived snubs among the award recipients, fostering a sense of community around the latest developments in the watch industry. Listen Now>
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2014 Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 39.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (5930G-001) - was bid to $23,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2017 Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual Calendar 43MM Black Dial Leather Strap (326-03)
Auction Report: Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual Calendar Ref. 326-03 – The Bull That Does All the Math for You
The 2017 Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual Calendar (326-03) in this auction is one of those “if you know, you know” watches: a 43mm rose gold complication monster with a black ceramic 24-hour bezel, black dial and a perpetual calendar that cheerfully adjusts both forward and backward without having to go back to the mothership. The seller is representing it as being in very good condition, with inner and outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated 2017, paired here with a leather strap that tones down just a bit of the “gold bull on your wrist” drama while keeping it comfortable for regular wear.
To understand what you’re bidding on, it helps to know where the El Toro sits in the Ulysse Nardin universe. The line launched around 2010 as the evolution of the brand’s famed GMT +/- Perpetual concept first developed in the 1990s with Ludwig Oechslin. The El Toro/Black Toro platform combines a dual-time mechanism with the in-house calibre UN-32, a perpetual calendar that can be adjusted both forward and backward via the crown—even through tricky dates like leap years and the year 2100—without risking damage to the movement. Ulysse Nardin wrapped this technical flex in a bold, architectural case: 43mm of solid 18k rose gold topped with a fixed black ceramic 24-hour bezel, rated to 100 meters of water resistance and finished with a sapphire display back showing the decorated movement and its roughly 48-hour power reserve.
On the dial side, the watch leans all the way into “complicated sports-luxury.” The black dial is finished with Côtes de Genève striping and dominated by the raised ceramic “T-bar” that visually anchors the calendar indications. You get a large double-date at about 1 o’clock, day and month apertures flanking center, and a two-digit year display above 6 o’clock, all driven by the UN-32’s perpetual logic. The oversized skeletonized hands keep things legible without blocking the calendar, with luminous tips and luminous hour markers helping at night. The second time zone is handled by an arrow-tipped central hand reading against the ceramic 24-hour bezel, while the local hour hand can be jumped forward or backward in one-hour increments using the plus/minus pushers integrated into the case flanks—ideal for real travel, not just “Instagram airport flex.”
Historically and technically, this watch punches far above where it trades. Contemporary reviews have called the El Toro “perhaps the most robust and user-friendly perpetual calendar out there,” emphasizing how unusual it is to have a full perpetual calendar that you can correct both ways on the wrist with simple crown and pusher actions instead of a forest of micro-pushers and a service invoice if you mess it up. From a lineage standpoint, it’s also one of the last great “maxi-complication” travel watches of the pre-integrated-bracelet hype era—a bit of a cult favorite among people who like clever mechanics more than waiting lists.
Then there’s the money. When new, the rose gold El Toro/Black Toro sat at a sticker price in the mid-$50,000s; one well-documented reference for the closely related 326-03-3 gives a last known retail of about $55,500, with other El Toro variants of similar construction carrying list prices up toward $59,600–$61,900. Today, the secondary market tells a different story. Dealer and marketplace listings for El Toro/Black Toro pieces in rose gold with black ceramic bezel typically cluster in the low- to mid-20s, with some outliers higher and some aggressively priced examples lower. Essential Watches has shown pre-owned 326-03 El Toro GMT Perpetuals with box and papers around $24,200, while a similar rose-gold, black-dial 326-03 at The Watch Outlet was recently offered at $17,950 with box but no papers, heavily discounted from its original $56,400 MSRP. Chrono24 and other aggregators show asking prices for rose-gold El Toro/Black Toro references spanning roughly the low $20,000s up into the $30,000s and beyond depending on condition, configuration, and seller optimism, with several rose-gold GMT Perpetual listings between about $22,000 and $32,000 and a few “shoot-your-shot” listings above $40,000.
Against that backdrop, this particular watch looks commercially interesting. You have a 2017-dated example in very good condition, with full boxes, papers, and additional items, on a leather strap that many buyers actually prefer for balance and comfort. The full set and later-dated papers matter: they put this piece toward the top of the desirability curve versus earlier or incomplete examples, and they support long-term resale if you ever decide to move it on. Given the current market data, a realistic “fair value” band for a strong 326-03 with box and papers probably sits somewhere in the low- to mid-$20,000s, say roughly $20,000 to $26,000, with anything significantly under $20,000 starting to look like opportunistic money and anything well into the 30s demanding either exceptional condition or a very motivated El Toro fan.
For bidders, the play is straightforward. If the hammer plus premium comes in below the low-20s, you are essentially buying one of the most technically user-friendly perpetual calendar travel watches ever made at an enormous discount to original retail and at or below the current dealer market for comparable pieces. Between the UN-32’s forward/backward perpetual functionality, genuine 100-meter water resistance, and real-world travel usability of the GMT system, it is one of the rare complicated gold watches you can actually wear and use without babying. If bidding drifts into the mid-20s, you are paying what the market broadly considers fair for a full-set, later-paper example; in that range, the justification is less about “deal” and more about locking in a specific configuration you may not see often. Once the all-in price heads much past the high-20s and into the 30s, you’re paying a premium for emotion, and you should be sure you’re in love with the El Toro look and the heft of a 43mm rose-gold case.
Bottom line: for the right buyer, this 2017 Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual Calendar is a quietly brilliant piece of high-function horology hiding in plain sight behind a big, flashy case and a ceramic bezel. If the auction tonight, Thursday, November 20, 2025 at 8:36 pm, settles in that low-20s band, this is a bull worth backing.
Current bid: $7,500