BuyingTime Daily - November 19, 2025
Seiko surges, UK luxury stumbles, and a wave of standout releases—from Omega to MB&F—keeps the watch world buzzing. Plus: tonight’s Patek 5930G auction spotlight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 19, 2025
Today’s watch universe feels like a tale of two markets: the Japanese are sprinting ahead, the British are limping a bit, and the independents are doing that wonderful “we refuse to be normal” thing they do best. The big headline is how Seiko and Grand Seiko continue to put pressure on their Swiss counterparts by simply… performing. Seiko Group’s latest financials show the watch segment now pulling in 61% of total revenue, with a muscular 15.1% operating margin that leaves Richemont and Swatch Group looking a bit winded. Grand Seiko is thriving in the U.S., Europe is feeling soft, and Credor is getting groomed for global stardom with a Watches & Wonders 2026 debut. Not a bad way to start a Wednesday.
Meanwhile, over in the UK, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith are having a character-building year, with sales down 28% thanks to inflation, high mortgage costs, and the dreaded Tourist Tax. LVMH is calling the results “satisfactory,” which is very British code for “please don’t ask follow-up questions.” The good news is that Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet managed modest gains, while Swatch Group shrank by 12%, confirming that entry and mid-luxury remain the trickiest parts of the market.
On the collaboration front, Teddy Baldassarre has officially entered the arena, teaming up with Brew on a blue-dial Brew Metric with the Seiko VK68 hybrid movement. It’s compact, chronograph-y, espresso-timer-y, and $475. A safe bet to sell like hotcakes.
The feature slate today is wonderfully global, starting with Belvans, a young French brand channeling its Parisian roots and the craft of Franche-Comté in a playful-meets-serious Heritage Collection. Apple joins the fun with a deep dive into its 3D-printed titanium cases, proving once again that it can disrupt anything—even watch-case manufacturing—by swapping cutting tools for lasers and powdered metal. China’s rising star Fam Al Hut gives a thoughtful interview about mechanical art, cultural grounding, and what comes after winning the Audacity Prize at the GPHG. And for community lovers, a warm photo report from the Speedmaster GTG Netherlands shows why Omega enthusiasts remain one of the most fiercely connected tribes in the hobby.
Collectors will enjoy today’s primer on hallmarks and why those tiny stamps carry oversized meaning, plus an in-depth look at the Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra 嚮, which brings Chinese and Middle Eastern influences together in one very refined enamel dial. And if you like a side-by-side brawl, the Tudor Black Bay vs Omega Seamaster comparison crowns the Seamaster the clear winner—because sometimes precision, polish, and METAS certification simply win the day.
New releases are flowing. Bremont adds an adventure-ready Terra Nova with compass bezel and power reserve. Felipe Pikullik’s Mondphase II delivers an artistic openworked moonphase with the new FPMP2 calibre. Lederer flips the movement to the front with the Inverto Titanium. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin go full fairy-tale with an “Unfrogettable” regulator that somehow works. MB&F revives Art Deco geometry with the HM11. Norqain drops a meteorite-heavy Wild One built like a space helmet. Omega unveils the fourth-generation Planet Ocean, slimmer and cleaner than ever. Parmigiani Fleurier, Ressence, YOUHR, and Zenith all join the parade with strong, distinctive entries that further confirm November as the unofficial “new releases everywhere” month.
On the review bench, Draken’s Kruger V2 chrono gets praise for its rugged, ranger-inspired design. A hands-on with the Grand Seiko SLGW007 reveals a slim, elegant “Moonlit Birch” with the new 9SA4. The new Omega Planet Ocean earns multiple write-ups for its refined case geometry and tool-watch credibility, while Orient Star’s M45 Moon Phase showcases just how far $3,000 can go with traditional craft.
Watching Time brings hands-on looks, horological experiments, and bargains, while Buying Time surfaces notable auction action—including Tuesday’s A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase stalling at $26,500, reserve unmet.
Tonight’s big auction spotlight goes to the 2014 Patek Philippe 5930G-001 World Time Chronograph, a blue-dial beauty that represents a turning point for modern Patek complications. With box and papers, a richly layered movement, and a market that has settled into the low-to-mid $40Ks for clean examples, this could be one of the night’s smarter buys if the hammer stays restrained. Current bid: $19,800. Bring popcorn.
Time keeps moving—thankfully so do the watches.
News Time
Seiko and Grand Seiko financials put Swiss in the shade
Seiko Group’s first-half FY2025 sales rose 6.3% to ¥160 billion, with the watch segment up 8.8% to ¥98.2 billion and now 61% of total revenue. The watch division’s 15.1% operating margin far outpaces Swiss rivals Richemont and Swatch Group. Grand Seiko excelled in the U.S. on the back of strong markets, while Europe lagged with softer luxury demand. Seiko also plans to elevate Credor globally with a debut at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026. Read More >
TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith sales slide by 28% in the UK
LVMH Watch & Jewelry (UK) Ltd saw 2024 sales fall 28% to £87 million, with operating profit down 62% amid inflation, higher mortgage costs, and the UK Tourist Tax. Sales are now 36% below the 2023 peak, though LVMH called the result “satisfactory” given the market. Performance varied by brand group: Rolex grew modestly, while Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet also advanced. Swatch Group’s UK turnover fell 12%, echoing the broader pressure on entry and mid-luxury tiers. Read More >
Teddy Baldassarre Launches His First Watch Collaboration: a Brew Metric
Teddy Baldassarre’s first collaboration is the Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition with a blue-tone dial, new handset, no date, and the brand’s espresso timer details. It runs the Seiko VK68 hybrid meca-quartz for quartz accuracy and mechanical-style chronograph action. The 36mm case, sapphire crystal, and engraved caseback keep the compact, enthusiast-focused formula intact. Marketed as a “special edition” without a set cap, it’s priced at $475. Read More >
Feature Time
How Belvans is reviving the spirit of French watchmaking
Belvans, founded by three Parisians in 2023, aims to restore French watchmaking’s identity with design-led pieces produced in Franche-Comté. The Heritage Collection blends playful details like an Eiffel Tower-inspired seconds hand with serious materials and construction, including a steel case with a titanium inner layer for stability. A finely regulated Miyota 8315 delivers a 60-hour power reserve, while guilloché finishing on the rotor highlights craft intent. Multiple metal finishes and Italian leather straps, plus free engraving, position each watch as a personal statement of French heritage. Read More >
In-Depth: The Engineering Behind Apple’s 3D-Printed Watch Cases
Apple’s Series 11 and Ultra 3 cases use Laser Powder Bed Fusion to 3D-print with 100% recycled titanium, cutting waste and energy versus traditional machining. The 20-hour process builds over 900 layers and enables structural features that can’t be milled, while preserving the familiar Apple case aesthetic. Apple estimates saving more than 400 metric tons of titanium annually, aligning with its sustainability goals. This shift also opens new creative avenues that could influence both industrial design and future mechanical case engineering. Read More >
Interview: A Deep Dive into Fam Al Hut, the New Indie Sensation from China
Fam Al Hut, creators of the GPHG Audacity Prize-winning Möbius, frames its mission as mechanical art that transcends timekeeping. Founders Xinyan Dai and Lukas emphasize originality rooted in Chinese culture and classical horology, moving beyond inherited Swiss templates. They plan limited annual production while pursuing ambitious ideas like an ultra-thin tourbillon and an amorphous zirconium case. The goal is to evoke curiosity in collectors through bold design and meticulous craft. Read More >
Photo Report: The Third Edition Of the Speedmaster GTG Netherlands
Fifty-seven guests from 13 countries gathered near Utrecht for an intimate, safety-forward Speedmaster meet with Omega representation and the Moonwatch Only authors. Nine months of planning produced a collector-first setting that favored trust, connection, and informal watch spotting. Attendees brought rare vintage references, including CK2915-3, alongside notable modern editions. The event underscored the strength of Speedmaster community and shared enthusiasm across eras. Read More >
Striking The Mark
This feature explains how hallmarks on precious metal cases authenticate origin, quality, and condition, and why collectors value them. It traces hallmark histories from the Swiss Helvetia head to today’s St. Bernard symbol, and contrasts with England’s intricate system dating to the 14th century. As production centralizes, diverse hallmark sets have become rarer, increasing their charm and significance. Contemporary touches, like Chopard’s discreet platinum bee, show how small marks still carry big meaning. Read More >
The Allure of Antiquity: Atelier Wen × Revolution: Ancestra 垚 (Yáo)
Ancestra 垚 debuts at Dubai Watch Week 2025 as a bridge between Chinese and Middle Eastern aesthetics, reframing “Made in China” through artisanal excellence. A fumé grand feu enamel dial shifts from desert sand to deep chocolate, set in a case inspired by Hongshan jade carvings. Powered by Pequignet’s EPM03 with 65 hours of reserve and 100 meters of water resistance, it balances robustness and refinement. Built to order for $5,850 with deliveries in late 2026, each dial’s handcraft ensures subtle variation. Read More >
Tudor Black Bay vs Omega Seamaster: Years Of Testing, One Clear Winner
This comparison sets the Black Bay’s vintage-tool ethos against the Seamaster’s modern luxury and technical prowess. Tudor emphasizes rugged usability and reliable, no-nonsense mechanics that honor dive-watch roots. Omega counters with METAS-certified precision, elevated finishing, and refined ergonomics that raise the bar for capability and polish. The verdict favors the Seamaster for its comprehensive sophistication and execution. Read More >
The Latest Time
Bremont
Bremont’s Rugged Adventure Watch Looks More Outdoor-Ready Than Ever
Bremont’s Terra Nova Turning Bezel Power Reserve debuts in NYC with a gradient black-to-green dial, satin radial-brushed steel case, and a bi-directional compass bezel. The 40.5mm piece adds small seconds and a power reserve display, pairing legible markers with a brown nubuck strap. Limited to 50 pieces with 100 meters of water resistance, it’s powered by the automatic Bremont BB-556AH with a 41-hour reserve. Price: $4,250.
Felipe Pikullik
Felipe Pikullik Mondphase II
Felipe Pikullik’s Mondphase II introduces the brand’s first in-house calibre FPMP2 with a separate module for setting and winding, showcasing a more artistic, openworked architecture. The 41mm hand-wound watch features hours, minutes, moonphase, and 24-hour indications, with about 40 hours of power reserve. Limited to 20 pieces per case material across steel, bronze, and platinum, it emphasizes both craft and scarcity. Price: €45,000 (steel), €58,000 (bronze), €65,000 (platinum).
Lederer
The Lederer Inverto Titanium
Lederer flips the script with the Inverto Titanium, placing the movement front-and-center under a concave crystal in a hand-polished 39mm titanium case. The manual-wind calibre 9019 features twin barrels, dual gear trains, and two escapement wheels for a 38-hour reserve. Though not a numbered limited edition, production will be constrained; strap choices include blue calf leather or caoutchouc. Price: CHF 152,000.
Louis Erard
First Look: The new Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin create a playful “frog princess” regulator by rotating the movement 90 degrees to form a dial “face,” with time shown via discs and an arrow minute hand. The grade 5 titanium case, sapphire crystal, and Kurozan leather strap blend whimsy and quality. Limited to 178 pieces per each of two colorways, the watch runs on the Sellita SW266-1 automatic movement, visible through the caseback. Price: CHF 4,500.
MB&F
Introducing: The New Art Deco Editions of the MB&F HM11
The HM11 Art Deco reimagines the HM11 Architect’s mechanics in a 1930s geometric language, with a titanium quatrefoil case, double-domed sapphire “roof,” and 20m water resistance. Its three-dimensional hand-wound movement offers 96 hours of power and a case-rotation winding system. Available in blue or green with matching lizard straps, production is limited to 20 pieces. Price: CHF 198,000 or €215,000 (excl. taxes).
Norqain
First Look: The Norqain Independence Wild One Meteorite 42 (Incl. Video)
In burgundy Norteq with a grey rubber shock absorber, the Wild One Meteorite 42 withstands shocks up to 5,000G and carries a COSC-certified Kenissi NN20/1 with 70 hours of reserve. The 42mm, 200m-rated watch features a genuine meteorite dial and integrated rubber strap. Limited to 300 pieces. Price: CHF 5,950 (pin buckle) or CHF 6,300 (folding clasp).
Norqain Wild One Meteorite: Limited Edition - Read More >
Omega
Omega Launches The Fourth Generation Seamaster ‘Planet Ocean”
To mark 20 years of Planet Ocean, Omega unveils a sharper, more angular 42mm case that’s slimmer at 13.79mm with a titanium caseback. The 8912 Master Chronometer delivers a 60-hour reserve; the date is omitted for balance. Retaining 600m water resistance, it adds a redesigned bracelet and bold numerals in white or matte orange.Price: $8,600 (rubber) to $9,500 (bracelet).
The Fourth Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, All New For Its 20th Anniversary - Read More >
Parmigiani Fleurier
The new Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Artic Rose
The Minute Rattrapante complication overlays two minute hands to measure elapsed minutes on demand, here paired with an elegant Arctic Rose dial in steel. Calibre PF052 offers a 48-hour reserve with Geneva stripes and a solid gold rotor. Water-resistant and hand-guilloché details emphasize craft and refinement, cementing the Tonda PF’s modern identity. Price: CHF 29,700.
Ressence
The New Ressence Type 1 Round RG, with Rose Gold-Toned Dial
Ressence’s limited Type 1 Round RG uses a titanium “pebble” case with sandblasted mid-case, polished bezel, and double-domed sapphire to frame a warm rose gold-toned dial. The crownless ROCS system displays hours, seconds, and weekday via rotating discs on a sunray surface. Limited to 70 pieces and paired with a light grey suede strap, it’s powered by a customized automatic ETA 2892 with a 36-hour reserve. Price: CHF 18,150 (excl. taxes).
YOUHR
YOUHR’s debut meets vintage and modern in the middle
Veteran watchmaker Roland Gloor launches YOUHR ONE, an ultra-flat 39×40mm gold dress watch just 8.2mm thick, blending round-square geometry and hand-finished integrated lugs. A hand-guilloché dial, openworked rhodium dauphine hands, and Arabic numerals frame the Vaucher 5400-based ultra-thin automatic with 48 hours of reserve. Designed with Jacqueline Dimier, the piece channels “perfect lines” and quiet luxury. Price: CHF 38,800.
Zenith
Zenith Looks to Japan for Inspiration on Its Latest Throwback Panda Chronograph
The Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition nods to Lupin the 3rd with a beige faux-patina panda dial in microblasted titanium. Sized at 37mm with 50m water resistance, it houses the El Primero 400 high-beat automatic with a 50-hour reserve. Limited to 200 pieces, it launched in Japan on Nov 19, 2025, with global online sales from Nov 26, priced at $10,400.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Draken Kruger
Draken Kruger V2 Watch Review: Tough, Tactical, And Surprisingly Wearable
The Kruger V2 pays tribute to Southern Africa’s rangers with a rugged yet comfortable chronograph designed for daily wear. Options span Swiss automatic movements in premium variants and Seiko mechaquartz in standard models, with multiple dial layouts, bezels, and finishes. Built from grade 2 titanium with a scratch-resistant coating, it features a domed sapphire crystal, bidirectional rotating bezel, excellent lume, and easy strap changes. Prices range from $459 to $599, reflecting strong build quality and versatility. Read More >
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW007 owner’s review
The SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch” pairs a textured navy dial with a slim 38.6mm steel case and a box-shaped sapphire crystal for a refined, dressy presence. Its hand-wound 9SA4 movement delivers an 80-hour power reserve and is visible through a see-through case back. Nuanced casework combines hairline brushing and zaratsu polishing, while tall markers and distinctive hands ensure legibility. Priced at $10,000, it’s available from Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers. Read More >
Omega
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean: The Fourth Generation
The fourth-generation Planet Ocean refines the line’s mix of style, function, and technology while preserving core design DNA. Upgrades focus on robust materials and enhanced durability suited to real diving. Precision and reliability remain central, underscoring Omega’s commitment to innovation in a flagship tool watch. The result is a balanced evolution that feels both modern and true to the collection’s roots. Read More >
The All-New, 4th-Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean - Read More >
Orient Star
The new Orient Star M45 Mechanical Moon Phase
Available in white or a limited grey dial, the hand-wound M45 features a 39.5mm steel case, mother-of-pearl moon phase, and crisp pad-printed details. The F8A62 movement offers over 70 hours of power reserve and employs a silicon escape wheel, visible through a sapphire case back. Its dial execution and traditional techniques underscore thoughtful craftsmanship at an approachable level. Price: $3,040 (white dial) and $3,280 (limited grey dial). Read More >
Watching Time
Hands-On: The New 4th Generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
I Designed A Watch With Brew Watches
These Mind-Blowing Watches Just Dropped!
This Bargain Integrated Bracelet Diver gives you ALL of the Specs in one Watch
Talking Time
No new episodes today
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2015 A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase 41MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (139.032) - was bid to $26,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2014 Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 39.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (5930G-001)
Auction Report: Global Blue: Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G-001 Heads to Auction
Tonight’s lot is one of those “if you know, you know” Patek complications: a 2010s Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G-001 in white gold, with blue guilloché dial, box and papers, and a seller-claimed very good condition. On paper it sounds like just another modern complicated Patek, but this reference quietly marks a turning point for the brand: it’s the first regular-production World Time paired with a flyback chronograph, a combination collectors previously only knew from a unique 1940s piece in the Patek Museum.
The basics are all here and nicely executed. The 39.5mm white-gold case wears compact but substantial, with a simple polished bezel that leaves your attention on the dial. The blue center is hand-guilloché in a circular motif, ringed by the 24-city disk and 24-hour ring, with applied white-gold indexes and silver-toned hands keeping the whole thing legible rather than busy. The subdial at 6 o’clock handles the 30-minute chronograph register, while a central chronograph seconds hand runs over the world-time display; it’s a lot of information, but in typical Patek Philippe fashion, it’s organized rather than chaotic. The blue leather strap and matching white-gold folding clasp finish off a package that’s firmly in the “dressy traveler” camp rather than sports-lux.
Under the hood is the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 HU, essentially Patek Philippe’s modern vertical-clutch column-wheel chronograph movement married to the Louis Cottier-derived world-time mechanism. That means you get a flyback chronograph you can let run continuously without undue wear, plus the classic one-pusher local-time jump that advances the city ring and 24-hour disk together. It’s a technically dense movement—24 time zones always on display, a chronograph on top of that, automatic winding, and a relatively svelte 12mm overall case thickness—which is why, when this reference debuted at Baselworld 2016, it was one of the big talking points of the fair.
From a historical and collecting standpoint, the 5930G is interesting because it bridges two important parts of Patek Philippe’s identity. World Time pieces are among the brand’s most romantic complications; chronographs are among its most technically respected. Before the 5930G, that combination essentially existed only as a one-off from 1940 (museum watch no. P996), so this reference brought that idea into the regular catalog—and in a very contemporary, blue-dial, travel-ready package. The model is now discontinued, with later variants like the green-dial 5930G-011 trading at a sizable premium, which tends to cast the original blue version as the “pure” launch edition and a relatively sensible entry point into modern complicated Patek.
Value is where things get interesting. When new, the 5930G carried an eye-watering list price in the low-to-mid $70,000s—Hodinkee reported $73,712 at launch, and some retailers later quoted retail around $81,610 as of 2022. The secondary market has since done what the secondary market does. WatchCharts pegs the overall 5930G market price at roughly $51,500, with the blue 5930G-001 variant around $53,000 as of November 2025. Chrono24 listings cluster in the low-to-mid $50,000s for used examples with box and papers, with the occasional ambitious dealer trying their luck in the 60s.
Auctions have been slightly more disciplined. Recent data compiled by EveryWatch shows 5930G-001s changing hands in the low-to-mid $40,000s: about $45,500 in April 2025, and roughly $41,500 in August 2025 at Bezel Auctions, while a Sotheby’s sale in late 2024 reached around $48,000. In other words, the market seems to have settled into a band where serious but non-trophy complicated Pateks live: a noticeable discount to retail, but still firmly in “serious money” territory.
Against that backdrop, tonight’s example—with box and papers, in very good condition—slots neatly into the story. A sensible estimate range would be in the $42,000 to $48,000 zone, with upside into the low-50s if two world-time diehards decide they both need this one. The presence of complete paperwork and a clean case profile will matter; so will any recent service history the consignor can document. In a world where steel sports hype has cooled and collectors are rediscovering “real” complications, a white-gold World Time Chronograph starts to look less like an indulgence and more like a quiet vote for substance.
For the right bidder—a global traveler who actually uses the complication, or a collector trying to build out the modern Patek Philippe complication arc—this 5930G-001 is a compelling play. You’re getting a historically significant reference, serious movement architecture, and an aesthetic that has aged gracefully in less than a decade. If the hammer stays on the friendly side of $50,000, this could be one of tonight’s smarter ways to buy a lot of Patek for the money.
Current bid: $19,800