BuyingTime Daily - December 17, 2025
Swiss watch jobs tighten, independents shine, Richemont defies gravity, Reddit melts over a $125 dive watch, and 2025’s best gifts take center stage.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 17, 2025
The Swiss watch industry is hitting an uncomfortable milestone, facing its first employment downturn since the post-Covid rebound. About a quarter of companies are now leaning on Switzerland’s short-time work scheme to preserve skilled labor while demand cools, exports slip, and geopolitical and tariff volatility keep planners awake at night. A recent tariff reduction offers some breathing room, but the mood heading into 2026 is cautious rather than celebratory.
On the independent front, the 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize lineup underscores just how creative the margins of watchmaking have become. Five finalists, spanning everything from pedagogical design to advanced chronometry and poetic displays of time, will be judged by a heavyweight jury that includes Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Frank Geelen. With €150,000 and a year of mentorship at stake, this remains one of the few prizes that can genuinely move an independent career forward.
At the group level, Richemont continues to defy gravity in the UK, posting solid sales growth and a sharp jump in operating profit while rivals struggle. That resilience extends—at least on the top line—to Watchfinder, where sales rebounded strongly even as losses persisted, a reminder that the pre-owned market is still wrestling with price volatility and post-boom normalization.
Elsewhere, watch culture did what it does best: collectively lost its mind over value. A once-aspirational dive watch resurfacing around $125 has Reddit buzzing, proving that nothing ignites debate faster than a dramatic price collapse. Meanwhile, gift-watch lists, shaped dress watches, and artisanal deep dives—from Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe to Bovet’s deeply personal approach to high horology—round out a season where heritage, accessibility, and experimentation are all colliding at once.
From galaxy-inspired GPS pieces by Seiko to bronze divers from Yema, restrained collaborations from TAG Heuer, and anniversary reverence at Breguet, today’s watch universe feels broad, slightly uneasy, and still relentlessly inventive. Even in a slowdown, time, it seems, refuses to stand still. -Michael Wolf
News Time
Swiss Watch Industry Faces First Employment Downturn Since Post-Covid Era
The Swiss watch industry is facing its first post-Covid employment downturn, with roughly a quarter of companies relying on Switzerland’s short-time work (RTH) scheme to cut labor costs without resorting to mass layoffs. The RTH program has been extended from 18 to 24 months as a prolonged slowdown in demand weighs on the sector, even as it helps preserve specialized watchmaking skills. Exports are down 1.6% year-to-date versus 2024, pressured by geopolitical conflicts, weaker growth in Europe and China, and volatile U.S. import tariffs. Although a recent agreement lowering tariffs from 39% to 15% offers some relief, the industry remains wary of potential deeper cuts and structural challenges in 2026.
The Finalists and Jury Members for the 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize
The 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives highlights five finalists chosen from a wide field of independent watchmakers, each presenting technically ambitious and visually distinctive timepieces. The shortlisted creations include Daizoh Makihara’s nature-inspired wristwatch, Fam Al Hut’s compact bi-axis tourbillon, Hazemann & Monnin’s pedagogical School Watch, Lederer’s advanced Central Impulse Chronometer, and Quiet Club’s atmospheric Fading Hours. A jury composed of prominent industry figures, such as Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Frank Geelen, will evaluate the watches on innovation, design, and horological merit. The winner, to be announced on March 24, 2026, will receive a €150,000 grant and a year of tailored mentorship to support further development.
Richemont UK outperforms rival groups with 5% rise in sales
Richemont’s UK watch and jewelry business achieved a 5.3% increase in sales to £277 million (about $372 million) for the 2024–25 financial year, bucking the downward trend seen at competitors LVMH and Swatch Group. Operating profit surged 155% to £32 million (around $43 million), reflecting the strength of the group’s brand portfolio and strategic positioning. Over the past decade, Richemont’s UK sales have grown 370%, far outpacing LVMH and Swatch in the same period. This performance underscores resilient demand for high-end timepieces and jewelry in the UK market despite broader luxury sector headwinds.
Watchfinder sales rise by 18% but losses persist
Watchfinder & Co., part of the Richemont group, reported an 18% increase in sales to £110 million (about $147 million) in 2024–25, reversing a previous decline and confirming the UK as its core market with £93 million in domestic revenue. Despite the top-line growth, the company recorded an operating loss of £12.6 million (around $17 million) for the year, bringing cumulative operating losses over the last three years to £37 million (about $49 million). Management attributes the red ink to sharp price volatility in the pre-owned watch segment and a challenging UK economic backdrop. Backed by Richemont, Watchfinder aims to leverage its market-leading position to strengthen brand awareness and selectively expand its international footprint.
Feature Time
Porsche Celebrates Founder’s 90th Birthday with Exclusive Capsule Collection
Porsche is marking the 90th birthday of its founder with an exclusive capsule collection that blends the brand’s motorsport heritage with contemporary luxury. The collection centers on special-edition pieces that reinterpret classic Porsche design cues through carefully chosen colors, materials, and graphic details. Each item is positioned as both a tribute to the company’s history and a statement of its ongoing commitment to performance and style. Together, they create a cohesive offering aimed at dedicated Porsche enthusiasts and collectors.
A Famous $2,000 Dive Watch Is Now Selling for $125, and Reddit Is Going Nuts
A once highly regarded $2,000 dive watch has resurfaced at a dramatically reduced price point of around $125, sparking intense discussion and excitement on Reddit. Enthusiasts are debating whether the new version retains enough of the original’s build quality, design, and specifications to justify the buzz. Some users see it as an unbeatable value for a beater or entry-level dive watch, while others question compromises in materials, finishing, or movement. The online reaction underscores how quickly watch culture can mobilize around a perceived bargain, especially when a once aspirational model suddenly becomes widely accessible.
Top Ten Watches to Gift this Christmas—Some of My Favorites in 2025
The 2025 holiday season brings a curated selection of ten standout luxury watches that balance technical achievement with strong brand heritage. Highlights include the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222, a tribute to the brand’s 270th anniversary, the Rolex Land-Dweller 40 with its cutting-edge movement, Patek Philippe’s refined Calatrava with a salmon dial, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Geographic featuring an intuitive world-time display. Each piece is chosen not only for its functionality, but also for its ability to serve as a lasting symbol of mechanical artistry and craftsmanship. Together they form a gift list tailored to serious collectors and enthusiasts who value both innovation and legacy.
The Art of Bovet
Bovet has undergone a renaissance under Pascal Raffy since 2001, returning the historic name to prominence with intricately decorated, highly artisanal timepieces. The Virtuoso XI, the brand’s first fully skeletonized watch, exemplifies this direction with a distinctive case inspired by old writing desks, a patented double-sided flying tourbillon, and a ten-day power reserve that showcases both technical and decorative mastery. Bovet’s collaboration with Rolls-Royce for bespoke Boat Tail timepieces pushes personalization even further, integrating elements like wood marquetry and engraving that echo each car’s unique design. These watches can even serve as dashboard clocks, reinforcing Bovet’s focus on turning horology into an intimate, functional art form tailored to individual owners.
The Latest Time
Autodromo
The Autodromo Mobil 1 Group B Pegasus Edition
The Autodromo Mobil 1 Group B Pegasus Edition is a limited-edition tribute to the wild 1980s Group B rally era, featuring a black DLC-coated stainless steel case with a titanium core that measures 39mm across and 9.9mm thick. Its high-contrast black dial, inspired by vintage racing tachometers, uses luminous hands and red Pegasus accents to evoke classic Mobil 1 imagery. Powered by the Miyota 9015 automatic movement, it offers a 42-hour power reserve and a slim, wearable profile. Limited to just 70 pieces, it is priced at $995 USD and sold exclusively through Autodromo.
De Rijke Watches & Co
The Capri, The Shaped, Dress Watch Collection of De Rijke & Co.
The Capri collection from De Rijke & Co. shifts focus from mechanical complexity to sculptural design, with a compact stainless steel case measuring 28.5mm by 38mm and just 6.5mm thick. Its curved dial comes in three refined executions—black onyx, black aventurine, and Capri Blue lacquer—each with subtle details like a small seconds subdial on the blue version and minimalist openworked hands on the others. Inside is a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100 or D101 movement with a 50-hour power reserve, underscoring the watch’s blend of elegance and mechanical depth. Limited to 50 pieces per dial variant, each Capri is priced at EUR 2,195 (about $2,553 USD before tax), with deliveries expected to begin in March 2026.
Monochrome
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4, Launching 18 December 2025
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 continues the series’ formula of pairing an independent watchmaker collaboration with a traditional seconde morte (jumping seconds) complication. Limited to just 33 pieces, it features a monochromatic, discreet dial design created with a young designer, aiming for a refined and slightly utilitarian aesthetic. The watch will be offered via a subscription campaign, with a two-week ordering window and reservations secured by a down payment. Production will begin after the subscription period closes, with first deliveries scheduled for January 2026 and all pieces completed by the end of March 2026.
Seiko
The Seiko Astron SSH187 And SSJ039 — Two Galaxy-Inspired GPS Solar Limited Editions
The Seiko Astron SSH187 and SSJ039 are limited edition GPS solar watches featuring “cosmic” dials inspired by swirling stars, rendered in dark turquoise with a subtle glitter effect and embossed spiral patterns. Both models retain Seiko’s proven 5X83 and 3X62 calibres, wrapped in fully black-coated titanium cases that balance durability, lightness, and modern styling. Rated to 10 bar of water resistance and treated with a scratch-resistant coating, they are built for everyday wear despite their decorative dials. Each reference is limited to 1,500 pieces, with the SSH187 priced at EUR 3,000 (about $3,489 USD) and the SSJ039 at EUR 2,500 (about $2,907 USD).
Yema
Yema Superman Bronze CMM.10 Limited Edition
The Yema Superman Bronze CMM.10 Limited Edition revisits the brand’s classic dive-watch template with a bronze case and a deep blue, two-layer “sandwich” dial that offers strong nighttime legibility. Inside is Yema’s in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 10 movement, delivering a robust 70-hour power reserve and modern accuracy. The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance and comes with two FKM Viton rubber straps in blue and white, each secured with a brushed bronze pin buckle. Limited to 200 numbered pieces, it is priced at EUR 1,790 (about $2,082 USD) and includes a five-year international warranty.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
Hands-On: The Breguet Classique 7235, My Favourite Watch of the 250th Anniversary
The Breguet Classique 7235 is part of the brand’s 250th-anniversary collection and focuses on honoring Breguet’s historic design language rather than pushing technical extremes. Its dial, inspired by the famous No. 5 pocket watch, uses intricate guilloché patterns to separate complications like the moon phase and power reserve, creating a rich yet harmonious layout. The ergonomic case, crafted from a special Breguet gold alloy, balances comfort and traditional aesthetics while showcasing the brand’s signature style. Limited to 250 pieces, it features a new in-house movement with an offset oscillating weight and silicon balance-spring, and a caseback engraved with the Quai de l’Horloge, where Breguet’s original workshop was located.
Movado
Movado Museum Imperiale Watch Review
The Movado Museum Imperiale extends the iconic Museum Dial concept with a cleaner, sportier interpretation that still feels elegant. Its defining feature is a sun-style hour marker at 12 o’clock, paired with bold hands and SuperLumiNova for strong legibility. Offered in 33 mm and 40 mm sizes, the 40 mm version houses a Swiss Made automatic movement and a date window at 3 o’clock, with a mix of 904L and 316L steel for durability and visual refinement. Available in multiple colorways and designed to work in both casual and formal contexts, it delivers a versatile, quietly stylish option for everyday wear.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition is the third collaboration between TAG Heuer and Hiroshi Fujiwara’s fragment design, built around a philosophy of visual restraint and clarity. Using the 39 mm Carrera Glassbox platform, it features a bezel-less steel case, a matte black opaline dial with three recessed subdials, and a subtle lightning-bolt motif that nods to the partnership without overpowering the look. Inside, the in-house Calibre TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement provides an 80-hour power reserve and is visible through a sapphire caseback. Limited to 500 pieces, the watch pairs a seven-row “beads-of-rice” bracelet with a minimalist, graphic dial, underscoring how timeless proportions and legibility can feel fresh and contemporary.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Grey Dial Leather Strap (5960P-001)- was bid to $18,727 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 41MM Black Dial Leather Strap (117.028)
Auction Report Title: The Big-Date Minimalist, Supersized — A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (117.028) in White Gold
If you want the pure A. Lange & Söhne vibe—big date, off-center geometry, and finishing that makes other “luxury” watches feel like they were assembled during a coffee break—the Grand Lange 1 is the cleanest way to get it in a modern, wrist-present 41mm package. The reference 117.028 pairs a 41mm white-gold case with a black dial made from solid silver, using the brand’s signature asymmetrical layout: time on its own subdial, small seconds, the “AUF/AB” power reserve, and that wonderfully German outsize date that’s basically the Lange family crest at this point. On paper it’s deceptively simple; on the wrist it’s the sort of simple that only looks easy after you’ve spent 30 years perfecting it.
A quick bit of context helps explain why the “Grand” matters. The original Lange 1 became the post-revival icon in 1994, and the Grand Lange 1 arrived later as the larger alternative. In 2012, A. Lange & Söhne essentially “fixed” the big-case version by giving it a movement designed for the larger dial architecture—calibre L095.1—so the proportions feel intentional rather than stretched. That L095.1 is a manually wound movement with a 72-hour reserve, and A. Lange & Söhne explicitly calls out the single-barrel setup that still delivers three days of run time—very on-brand, very Saxon, very “because we can.”
Now, the reality check: this listing is for the watch only, with no box and no papers, and that matters in today’s A. Lange & Söhne market. On the plus side, your seller calls it “very good condition,” and the reference itself is well-established enough that buyers care more about condition, originality, and service history than about hype. Still, “naked” tends to compress bidding because the next buyer you sell to will also want a discount. As for value, current market tracking has recently pegged the 117.028 around $26,013 (as of December 15, 2025), and live secondary listings commonly cluster in the mid-$20Ks to low-$30Ks depending on completeness and condition. A recent public auction result for the same reference shows a sale around $29,418 (noting auction comps vary heavily with set/completeness and venue).
So what’s a sensible bidding posture here? With no box/papers, you’re typically shopping for value rather than trophies. If the watch presents honestly as “very good,” and assuming nothing scary appears in the photos (soft hallmarks, over-polishing, moisture marks, or a tired strap/buckle situation), a rational target is often below full-set market—think “priced like a keeper, not like an investment brochure.” Also remember the unsexy grown-up detail: at some point, every A. Lange & Söhne needs service, and you don’t want to discover your “deal” was just pre-paying for your first trip back to Glashütte.
The punchline is that the 117.028 is one of those rare modern watches that feels inevitable—like the dial layout always existed and everyone else simply took a different wrong turn in 1994. If you’re buying it to wear (and you should), the missing kit is annoying but not fatal. If you’re buying it to flip, the missing kit is your entire problem. Either way, the auction ends Wednesday, December 17, 2025 at 8:43 PM Eastern—which, given today is Tuesday, December 16, means it’s tomorrow night, not “tonight” (unless your calendar is already living in the future like a true watch collector).
Current bid: $14,000