BuyingTime Daily - November 17, 2025
Swiss tariffs fall, Breguet wins big, indie heat rises, and tonight’s Lange Double Split auction steals the spotlight. Your Monday watch universe, fully charged.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 17, 2025
Tariff relief finally has a shape: Switzerland and the U.S. agreed to cut the extra duty on Swiss goods from 39% to 15%, with Bern signaling investment sweeteners and a framework that still needs formal approvals. We ran the core details in Friday’s issue and again in a Special Bulletin; today’s takeaway is simple—pricing pressure eases at the margin, sentiment improves, and the U.S. remains the growth stage for Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, and company as the new rate phases in.
Geneva’s big night crowned craft over noise as Breguet took the Aiguille d’Or for the Classique Souscription 2025, a tidy capstone to the brand’s 250th. Zenith, Bvlgari, and other LVMH stablemates stacked wins, fueling the “group momentum” chatter you’re hearing this morning, while Richemont’s quiet podium raised the usual second-guessing about participation strategy. The winning roadshow now heads to Dubai Watch Week.
On the novelty front, ArtyA is leaning all the way into sapphire with an AquaSaphir unique piece sporting a quadricolored bezel and a small green LE tuned to Dubai’s palette—pure spectacle, 60m rating, and a conversation starter if there ever was one. Christopher Ward drenches the C1 Bel Canto Lumière in lume without dulling the chime’s theater. Nomos goes precious with a 35 mm Tangente Neomatik in solid 18K gold at €9,800, a stealth-wealth flex for the minimalists.
Depth chart picks: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date Green lands at about USD$2,900 with a silicon escape wheel and 60-hour reserve, punching up in finishing and spec. Romain Gauthier’s C Carbonium Edition trims mass, shows off layered composite, and lists from USD$ 72,964 before taxes—43 grams of featherweight micromechanics. Seiko’s Australasian LE “Kame” brings reef-blue vibes and a charity tie-in, while Tutima’s Patria Evergreen (25 pieces) gives titanium-light formality in rich green at USD$10,324.
Indie radar: Voutilainen debuts the KV21 Tonneau—barrel case, direct-impulse escapement, and eight pieces per metal, starting around USD$168,840. It’s classic Kari: new shape, uncompromised finishing, and just enough production scarcity to make collectors twitch.
Reader favorites to chew on: an integrated-bracelet “showdown” where Citizen’s titanium know-how trades jabs with Tissot’s PRX refinement; a candid chat mapping Longines’ design/heritage strategy; and a timely love letter to “entry” icons—Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, IWC Mark XX, Grand Seiko SBGW231, Tudor Ranger, Seiko “Turtle,” OmegaSpeedy/Seamaster—arguing joy per dollar still lives below spec-sheet one-upmanship. (We’ll keep an eye on whether brands shade MSRPs post-tariff; don’t hold your breath for across-the-board cuts.)
List time, quickly: Tudor’s current sweet-spot five—Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time,” Black Bay Master Chronometer “Monochrome,” Black Bay Pro, Pelagos Ultra, and Black Bay 54—reflect the brand’s split personality: modern toolish vs. warmly vintage, with METAS momentum underneath.
Event snaps: Fratello × Breitling filled a new boutique with Navitimer, Premier, and Superocean wrist-time; consider it more proof that IRL watch nights are back in full swing. And if you’re brushing up on fundamentals, today’s “ABCs of Time” winding primer is your two-minute tune-up before the next launch cycle.
BuyingTime at Auction: Friday’s Urwerk UR-T8 20th Anniversary topped out at $25,000 and missed reserve—still taking offers. Tonight’s target is a black-dial platinum A. Lange & Söhne Double Split 404.035; full set, very good, and the kind of over-engineered rattrapante that still makes pros grin. Our window sits roughly $70k–$100k depending on crispness and service history; mid-$70s to mid-$80s feels like the happy lane if the stars align. Current bid: $10,000. - Michael Wolf
News Time
U.S. And Switzerland Reach Tariff Deal Bringing Relief To Swiss Watchmakers
Switzerland and the U.S. agreed to reduce tariffs on Swiss watches from 39% to 15%, easing pressure on an industry already contending with currency strength and rising material costs. The U.S., a critical export market for Swiss brands, is expected to see stabilized pricing and improved conditions as the new rate takes effect. The agreement follows meetings between Swiss business leaders and U.S. officials, signaling a renewed commitment to stronger trade ties. Alongside the policy shift, improving results from major groups like Richemont hint at a cautiously brighter outlook for the sector.
GPHG 2025: The Aftermath — LVMH Is A Big Winner, But Breguet Takes Home The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix
Breguet captured the top “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix at GPHG 2025 with the Classique Souscription 2025, marking a milestone during the brand’s 250th anniversary year. LVMH brands dominated the ceremony with five awards, including victories for Zenith and Bvlgari, underscoring the group’s momentum at the high end. Meanwhile, the absence of wins for Richemont brands spurred discussion about shifting competitive dynamics and participation strategies. The winning pieces will travel from Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire to Dubai Watch Week, bringing the year’s highlights to a broader audience.
Feature Time
Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds Vs. Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm
A head-to-head compares the Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds and the Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm as affordable integrated-bracelet sports watches. Citizen brings pioneering titanium expertise, a distinctive design, and a lower price point. Tissot counters with refined finishing and a more mainstream, versatile appeal. The debate weighs specs, aesthetics, brand history, and emotional pull to help readers decide which better fits their style and budget.
Discussing Longines design, heritage and strategy with its CEO
Longines’ CEO Patrick Aoun outlines three pillars that shape the brand: professional timekeeping, instruments for pilots and explorers, and elegance. The Spirit line is presented as the bridge between tool-watch credibility and luxury feel, while keeping accessibility at the core. Aoun signals slimmer cases, exclusive movements, and value-led luxury as priorities, with models like the Ultra-Chron positioned for collectors. The strategy centers on delivering a compelling experience rather than chasing price points.
When A Watch Brand’s “Entry Point” Is The Best Option
Entry-level references often capture the essence of a brand in the most wearable, recognizable way. Examples like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, IWC Mark XX, Grand Seiko SBGW231, Tudor Ranger, Seiko “Turtle” SRPE93, and Omega’s Speedmaster or Seamaster show how smart buying doesn’t require complex specs. These pieces emphasize comfort, reliability, and timeless design codes. The case for “entry” models is about value and daily joy rather than merely being the cheapest option.
Buying Guide: Suit Up In Style, With 6 Refined & Surprisingly Accessible Dress Watches
A seasonal guide curates six dress watches that balance elegance, function, and price. Highlights include the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage, Nomos Tangente Gold, and Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, alongside Seiko’s Presage Classic SPB529, the HU-01, and Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante. Each offers a distinct take on classic formality, from minimalist gold to contemporary sparkle. The list spans diverse tastes and budgets to complement holiday attire.
Are complex calendars the next great opportunity in accessibly priced complications?
Perpetual and annual calendars draw growing interest, but most modern offerings remain expensive for many enthusiasts. Brands like Frederique Constant hint at accessible paths, yet a wide gulf persists between entry outliers and established Swiss heavyweights. The piece argues for more options in the $10,000–$20,000 band and creative calendar formats that reduce adjustment frequency. Independent makers and microbrands may spur innovation, while neo‑vintage can bridge the gap today.
The Best Historic Military Watches We Tested With Real Service DNA
This roundup tests historically rooted military watches for durability, legibility, and purpose-driven design. Standouts include the Marathon Navigator, CWC SBS Diver, CWC 1983 Quartz Royal Navy, Marathon TSAR, and CWC 1980 Royal Navy Re-Issue. Features like tritium illumination, robust water resistance, and simple, high-contrast dials reflect their service heritage. Each model transitions easily from field utility to everyday wear.
Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches
A curated selection showcases five Tudor models that reflect the brand’s current strengths. The Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time,” Black Bay Master Chronometer “Monochrome,” Black Bay Pro, Pelagos Ultra, and Black Bay 54 cover military inspiration, modernized classics, and vintage charm. Each is praised for distinctive design, robust engineering, and compelling wrist presence. Readers are invited to consider how each fits their preferences and collections.
Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Event In Enschede
At Koelink Jewelers, guests celebrated a new Breitling boutique and the brand’s 2025 releases in a lively, full-house setting. A welcoming talk set the tone, with hands-on time for Navitimer, Premier, and Superocean collections. Attendees brought an eclectic mix of watches, underscoring an inclusive enthusiast community. The evening concluded with thanks and a teaser for a golden-themed follow-up event.
The ABCs of Time - How Are Mechanical Watches Wound? A Guide to Automatic and Manual Movements
This primer explains how hand-wound and automatic movements store and deliver power. Crown-winding remains the standard approach, while automatic watches rely on rotors—central, micro-rotor, or peripheral—to wind on the wrist. Innovations in rotor design enable slimmer profiles and different aesthetic effects. The overview traces the evolution of winding solutions, giving enthusiasts a clear map of the landscape.
4 Things I Learned About Grand Seiko on a Cross-Japan Road Trip
A road trip from Seiko House Ginza to Shinshu and Shizukuishi reveals Grand Seiko’s deep vertical integration and craft ethos. Nature-inspired design language, meticulous finishing, and technologies like Spring Drive shape the brand’s distinctive identity. The journey highlights how accuracy, beauty, and cultural heritage converge in the workshop. It culminates in the author finding a vintage 45GS as a personal emblem of the experience.
The Latest Time
Artya
Artya Unveils Exclusive Watch with Quadricolored Sapphire Bezel for DWW 2025
Artya’s AquaSaphir debuts as a statement piece for Dubai Watch Week 2025, crafted almost entirely from sapphire crystal, including its case, crown, and bezel. A unique quadricolored bezel edition echoes the UAE flag via NanoSapphire treatment, while an emerald green sapphire limited version offers a vivid alternative. Though styled like a diver, it’s rated to 60 meters and intended primarily for visual impact, powered by a La Joux-Perret G100 movement. Pricing is CHF 49,900 for the green limited model and CHF 79,900 for the quadricolor unique piece.
Christopher Ward
Introducing: Christopher Ward Goes All Out On Lume With The C1 Bel Canto Lumière
Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto Lumière transforms its chiming concept with an extensive use of lume across the dial and even on strap options. Housed in a lightweight 41mm Grade 5 titanium case, it features a smoked sapphire display, a blue Globolight ring, and a bird-inspired hour chime indicator. The FS01 caliber, based on Sellita SW200-1, underpins the striking design with reliable performance. Prices range from $4,910 on the luminous rubber strap to $5,290 on bracelet.
Kollokium
New: Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant G
Kollokium’s Projekt 01 Variant “G” refines the brand’s neubrutalist language with a softer cornflower blue dial contrasted by deep navy PVD pins. The dial’s 468 steel pins are filled with luminescent pigment, and buyers can choose between two handset options. Inside is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic with a 68-hour power reserve, while the die-cast 316L steel case maintains the line’s industrial character. Limited to 499 pieces, it retails at SGD 5,555.
Nomos
Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold
Nomos brings precious metal to its Bauhaus icon with a 35mm Tangente Neomatik in solid 18K gold, offered in Classic, Doré, and Ruthenium variants. Powered by the ultra-thin DUW 3001 automatic movement, it remains elegant at just 6.9mm thick and delivers 43 hours of power reserve. Ethical sourcing is emphasized through Responsible Jewellery Council-certified gold and premium Shell Cordovan straps. Priced at €9,800, it targets enthusiasts seeking discreet luxury and enduring design.
Orient Star
Viridian Starfall: A New Glow for Orient Star
The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green pairs a striking green, optically layered dial with the brand’s in-house F8 movement featuring a 60-hour power reserve. Its patented silicon escape wheel and power reserve indicator underscore the technical value proposition. Crafted in Japan with high-quality finishing, the watch blends practicality and visual drama for daily wear. At $2,900, it aims to punch above its price in design, tech, and execution.
Romain Gauthier
The C by Romain Gauthier Carbonium Edition
Romain Gauthier’s Carbonium Edition brings a lightweight, layered carbon composite case and a semi-openworked dial combining sapphire and Carbonium elements. The in-house, hand-wound movement runs at 4Hz with about 60 hours of reserve, delivering the brand’s signature finishing and engineering. Weighing just 43 grams including the rubber strap, it emphasizes comfort without compromising presence. Priced at CHF 58,000 before taxes, it is a non-limited, design-forward evolution of the C collection.
Seiko
Seiko Prospex Sea Australasian Limited Edition SRPM04K “Kame”
Inspired by Australia’s Fitzroy Island, the “Kame” features a blue-green fumé dial and gold-toned bezel within a 45mm dive-ready case rated to 200 meters. Powered by the 4R36 automatic, it’s limited to 1,000 pieces for Australia and New Zealand. A portion of proceeds supports the Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, aligning the watch with marine conservation. At A$995, it fuses local inspiration with a purpose-driven mission.
Tutima
Tutima Patria Evergreen
Limited to 25 pieces, the Tutima Patria Evergreen pairs a polished Grade 5 titanium case with a green, pyramid-textured dial and matching alligator strap. Inside is the in-house Caliber 617 with at least 65 hours of reserve, finished to Tutima’s high standard. Arabic-Indian numerals add a distinct design flourish that nods to brand heritage. Presented at Dubai Watch Week 2025, it’s priced at EUR 8,900.
Voutilainen
The Voutilainen KV21 Tonneau, An All-New Collection for the Indie Watchmaker
Kari Voutilainen’s KV21 Tonneau introduces a new barrel-shaped case with exquisite hand-guilloché dials and meticulous finishing. The hand-wound KV21 movement features a direct impulse escapement and about 65 hours of reserve. Available in steel, gold, or platinum with polished and satin accents, each variant is limited to eight pieces and customizable in color and pattern. Prices start at CHF 134,000, underscoring its rarity and artisanal pedigree.
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Bell & Ross
Hands-On With The Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass — A Smartly Executed Tool Watch With A Twist
The BR-03 GMT Compass keeps Bell & Ross’s squared aviation DNA while adding a GMT hand that doubles as a solar compass. Its 42mm steel case, bidirectional 24-hour bezel, and layered, luminous handset emphasize legibility and function. Finishing details like the reflective mid-case and sharp case lines give it visual punch to match its utility. Limited to 500 pieces, it offers a strong value proposition for a purpose-built traveler’s watch.
Hanhart
Is The Hanhart Aquasphere Ocean Fade The German Diver We’ve All Been Waiting For?
Hanhart shifts from chronographs to a modern 42mm dive watch with a blue-to-black gradient dial, 300m water resistance, and a helium escape valve. Comfort-first ergonomics include recessed lugs and a grippy screw-down crown, with multiple strap options and a forthcoming micro-adjust bracelet. A Swiss automatic Soprod P024 movement regulated in-house keeps accurate time, aided by bold hands and strong lume. Priced between $1,727 and $1,959, it blends tool-watch credibility with everyday wearability.
Hamilton
Hamilton’s Call of Duty Special Edition Khaki Field watch is now on sale
Hamilton releases the Khaki Field Automatic 38mm Call of Duty: Black Ops 7 Special Edition, aimed at fans and collectors alike. The piece ties pop culture and watch enthusiasm together, landing as a collectible that still fits daily-wear parameters. The article also surveys the shifting odds for the next James Bond, with brand ambassador dynamics shaping speculation. It’s a snapshot of how cinema, gaming, and watches intersect in 2025.
Jacques Bianchi
Review: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc
Co-designed with U.S. Navy Diver Brock Stevens, the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc prioritizes real-world underwater ergonomics. A Grade 5 titanium case with a tumbled texture, a Destro crown, and a deep, grippy bezel boost comfort and control. Legible, luminous markers and a Swiss Soprod P024 movement deliver reliability within six seconds per day. Although limited to 150 pieces and sold out, it sets a compelling template for future dive releases.
TAG Heuer
Hands-On: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 New Balance Edition Is A Luxury Smartwatch For Runners
This runner-focused E5 New Balance Edition swaps steel for lightweight, black DLC-coated grade 2 titanium and adds a 0–100 sports scale bezel. TAG Heuer’s in-house OS layers customized sounds, haptics, and training metrics over robust wellness sensors and 50m water resistance. A patented Cushion Comfort strap system includes a special running strap with New Balance race-shoe fabric. At $2,050, it targets athletes who want premium build with dedicated training features.
Timex
Timex Marlin Quartz GMT Review: How Good Is A $199 GMT Watch?
The Marlin Quartz GMT channels mid-century charm with a recycled steel case, domed acrylic crystal, and a subtle blue sunburst dial. A Swiss Ronda 515.24H “caller” GMT allows independent 24-hour hand setting, though the interface takes practice. Quibbles include inconsistent lume and a quirky 24-hour scale color split. At $199, it’s a stylish, accessible dual-time gateway for budding collectors.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2022 Urwerk UR-T8 Transformer “20th Anniversary” L.E. 48.35MM Black Dial Leather Strap (UR-T8-Black)- was bid to $25,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2007 A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronograph 43.2MM Black Dial Leather Strap (404.035)
A Split Second Above: 2007 A. Lange & Söhne Double Split (Ref. 404.035) — Auction Report
There are chronographs, there are rattrapantes, and then there’s the Double Split—the watch that let Lange lap the field in 2004 by “splitting” not just the seconds hand but the minutes as well. It was the first mechanical double-rattrapante ever put into series production, a technical flex that no one meaningfully challenged until Lange themselves went Triple Split years later.
This example is the black-dial, platinum 404.035: 43.2 mm across and a very honest 15.6 mm thick, housing the hand-wound caliber L001.1 with 465 parts and flyback functionality. On the dial you get the stacked chronograph/rattrapante architecture with twin totalizers, a power-reserve at 12, and that familiar Saxon discipline that makes the back of the watch look like a miniature opera stage. The spec sheet reads like a brag—950 platinum case, sapphire back, 3 bar water resistance—and it all checks out.
The seller represents it as very good, full set, fitting up to a 7.5-inch wrist. That’s the right configuration for collectors who want the lot complete, and the condition plus boxes/papers is a meaningful nudge in a reference whose trading history spans both stealth-wealth daily wearers and safe-queen completists.
Value context helps. At the rostrum, the Double Split has ranged widely: Phillips sold a platinum 404.035 for CHF 60,960, while Christie’s realized CHF 88,200 on a later example—both reasonable for the category and era. On the dealer side, recent secondary listings cluster roughly in the high-$70Ks to low-$110Ks depending on condition, provenance, and platform, with market trackers showing 2025 sales/asks from the high-$60Ks to low-$110Ks as liquidity ebbs and flows. Taken together, that frames today’s fair-market window around ~$70,000–$100,000, with premiums for exceptional sets and recent service.
As a piece of horological history, the Double Split is still a singular proposition. The movement doesn’t just stop a chasing seconds hand; it lets you capture and compare two elapsed times for seconds and minutes, reset on the fly thanks to the flyback, and do it all with Lange’s trademark black-polished steelwork and hand-engraved balance cock. Even two decades on, it feels like over-engineering in the very best way.
For bidders tonight at 10:38 pm (Monday, November 17, 2025), here’s the read: if you can land this complete, very-good 404.035 in the mid-$70Ks to mid-$80Ks, you’re buying at the heart of recent comps; push closer to six figures only if the example’s crispness, set completeness, and recent service justify the stretch. Either way, you’ll own the watch that made every other high-end chronograph feel just a little under-spec’d.
Current bid: $10,000
This piece really made me think about market dynamics. Your analysis of Richemont's quiet podium and 'participation strategy' was very insightful. I'm curious about the underlying calculus there. What variables are in play for their long-term market posistion?