BuyingTime Daily - November 14, 2025
Geneva’s big winners, new GPHG champs, bold collabs, tariff drama, and brands from Breguet to Breitling lighting up the watch world—today’s universe is packed.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 14, 2025
Geneva might as well start charging admission for emotional whiplash, because this fall’s auctions delivered everything from quiet confidence to multi-million-franc fireworks. The season’s headline belonged to a 1943 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 that soared to CHF 14,190,000—the kind of result that tells you the top of the market still has zero interest in subtlety. Beneath the headlines, bidding was measured, rational, and pleasantly hype-resistant, with independents earning genuine respect while mass-market modern pieces cooled. A mature market? Possibly. A boring one? Absolutely not.
Meanwhile, the collabs keep coming. Straum teamed up with The Real Time Show on a titanium Jan Mayen “Stormy Seas” edition that leans hard into maritime moodiness with its brooding blue dial and orange seconds hand. At $1,930, it lands in that sweet spot of “enthusiast-friendly but still makes your accountant sigh.” On the opposite end of the PR spectrum, Norqain scored a multi-year NHL sponsorship deal that basically says: “We’ve decided to go pro.” The Wild One special-edition Player-of-the-Game prize is either genius marketing or the beginning of horology’s ESPN era.
Awards season brought its own drama as Breguet claimed the GPHG’s Aiguille d’Or with the Classique Souscription 2025, an elegant single-hand watch that proves simplicity still wins hearts—and juries—when done right. The full roster of winners was a reminder that the industry’s creative bandwidth remains wide: from fire-opal Genta creations to Chopard’s seasonal fantasia. And in the “Rolex news that is somehow real” department, the first Rolex Submariner Desk Clock hammered for $17,750, suggesting that if the Crown put its logo on a doorstop, someone would pay five figures.
Back on the geopolitical front, Switzerland is still trying to charm its way out of Trump’s 39% tariff. Ministers arrived last week in D.C. with business leaders, diplomatic smiles, and apparently some thoughtful gifts. Rumors now point to a drop to 15% if pharma expansion is part of the package. Swiss exporters are hoping this works—because furloughs are the next step if it doesn’t.
The indie world refuses to stay quiet. German Polosin’s cyber-sculptural “Kopf” piece won over the design crowd, while researchers in Manchester keep chasing the eternal grail of friction-free watch movements with help from Roger Smith. If they pull it off, expect your next service interval to stretch into the next decade—and every brand to suddenly claim they “saw this coming.”
On the event circuit, Geneva’s November auction week rolled on with record breakers, specialty sales, and the kind of collector mingling that powers next season’s consignment lists. In Brooklyn, Junghans is about to host what can only be described as a Bauhaus-and-beer mixer, complete with snacks and the chance to win a 1972 Chronoscope Sports Edition. And in Hong Kong, Phillips is spotlighting pocket watches that make even seasoned collectors realize how little they know.
Brands stayed busy too. Bamford teamed with Disney for a 50-piece Fantasia-flavored GMT; Breitling rolled out a red-gold holiday capsule; Christopher Ward lit up the night with the Bel Canto Lumière; Circula dropped a manta-ray-themed diver; Czapek unveiled its futuristic Time Jumper series; Kollokium introduced a new neo-brutalist Variant G; Nomos went gold with precious-metal Tangente and Ludwig editions; and reviewers turned their attention to everything from Casio’s Back to the Future calculator watch to Vacheron Constantin’s over-the-top Les Cabinotiers showpieces.
Today’s standout auction watch is the Urwerk UR-T8 Transformer 20th Anniversary, a flipping, swiveling, sci-fi block of titanium theater that looks like it escaped from a cyberpunk museum. With only 30 made and a current bid of $25,000, it’s one of tonight’s most intriguing auctions, reminding everyone that the indie world’s wildest ideas still carve out real market space.
And with that, the universe keeps turning—loudly, creatively, and occasionally upside down.
News Time
Headlines and Takeaways from Geneva Fall Auctions
The Geneva fall auctions signaled a mature market with focused, deliberate bidding rather than frenzy. A 1943 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518 led the season at CHF 14,190,000, becoming the most expensive vintage Patek Philippe wristwatch sold at auction. Independent makers thrived as collectors rewarded mechanical originality and historical resonance over hype, while commonplace contemporary pieces drew softer interest. The overall tone reflected confidence, substance, and enduring value.
Straum and The Real Time Show Podcast Collaborate on the Jan Mayen Titanium “Stormy Seas” - Worn & Wound
Straum teamed with The Real Time Show on a limited Jan Mayen variant inspired by a 2022 expedition to the volcanic island. Its dark “stormy seas” blue dial and bright orange seconds hand lean into an adventurous, maritime theme without superfluous complications. The 39 mm Grade 5 titanium case houses the La Joux-Perret G101 with a 68-hour power reserve and 100 m water resistance on an FKM strap. Pre-orders run through November 20 at $1,930, with deliveries expected in February 2026.
Norqain Scores Multi-Year Sponsorship Deal With NHL Aimed At Vaulting Swiss Brand To The Big Leagues
Norqain secured a multi-year deal as the NHL’s official sports watch, unlocking branding and logo rights across the U.S., Canada, and Europe. The partnership coincides with the 2025 NHL Global Series, where a special Wild One will be awarded to the Player of the Game. Co-founder and former NHL player Mark Streit underscores the brand’s deep hockey ties, alongside ambassadors like Sidney Crosby. The move aims to boost visibility and elevate the brand within the sports ecosystem.
The Full List of Winning Watches from the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The 25th GPHG honored 90 nominated watches across 15 categories, with the “Aiguille d’Or” awarded to the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. Notable winners ranged from the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal to Chopard’s Imperiale Four Seasons, reflecting breadth from ladies’ pieces to tourbillons and icon prizes. The event showcased evolving artistry and technology and remains a yearly highlight for the industry. A complete list of winners accompanied the coverage.
First new Rolex Submariner Desk Clock sells at auction
Rolex’s new Submariner Date Desk Clock ref. 909010LN debuted at auction for $17,750, well above its $10,270 retail price. The premium reflects strong secondary market demand for collectible brand-adjacent objects and follows a relatively quiet product introduction. While high auction prices for luxury clocks have precedent, enthusiasm raises questions about availability and long-term collectability. The sale underscores persistent appetite for Rolex-branded pieces beyond wristwatches.
The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Wins the GPHG 2025 (And All Prize Winners)
Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025 captured the GPHG’s top prize, marking a philosophical turn toward refined simplicity during the brand’s 250th anniversary. The single-hand watch recalls historical roots with elegant restraint rather than technical showmanship. A diverse roster of category winners highlighted innovation across chronometry, tourbillons, and more. The Special Jury Prize went to Alain Dominique Perrin for contributions to haute horlogerie.
Swiss deploy charm offensive in bid to slash crippling Trump tariffs
Swiss ministers met in Washington to push down the additional 39% U.S. tariff on Swiss exports, which has strained the economy. After earlier resistance, a meeting involving Swiss business leaders—and symbolic gift-giving—appeared to soften the U.S. stance. Officials now signal a potential reduction to 15%, aligned with EU neighbors, in exchange for Swiss pharma expansions in the U.S. The talks carry urgency amid fears of furloughs at Swiss firms if relief does not materialize.
Feature Time
The Wild Watches of German Polosin
The Kopf watch by German Polosin blends cybernetic aesthetics with traditional craftsmanship, presenting an anthropomorphic face with tritium-lit eyes, a hinged crown guard, and a robust stainless steel case. Powered by an ETA 2892 and water-resistant to 30 meters, it’s conceived as a mechanical sculpture rather than a conventional timepiece. Polosin’s journey from Russia to England and his “perpendicular design” philosophy underpin the limited run of 100 pieces, emphasizing originality and artistic commentary in independent watchmaking.
Why do we need friction-free watch movements?
For centuries, watchmakers have pursued friction-free movements to reduce reliance on lubricants that degrade and require costly servicing. Researchers at Manchester Metropolitan University, collaborating with Roger Smith, are developing a nano material that could significantly lower friction and extend service intervals from five years to as much as fifteen. Despite past incremental improvements and industry skepticism, this work aims to minimize lubrication needs and could influence sectors beyond horology, including aerospace and automotive.
Event Time
Pietro’s report from Geneva’s November 2025 auctions: from record breakers to hidden gems
Geneva’s November auctions mixed historic milestones with modern innovation, from Sotheby’s Breguet 250th anniversary sale to Phillips’ record CHF 66.8 million “Decade One” result. Headliners included the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel at CHF 14,190,000 and notable moments like a unique Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar for AP’s 150th. Antiquorum broadened access with a wide spread of pieces, while the city’s charged atmosphere reaffirmed its status as the watch world’s epicenter. Collectors and dealers converged to trade insights as vintage icons and contemporary masterpieces shared the stage.
Join Junghans at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for an Evening of Bauhaus and Beer
On November 20, 2025, Junghans hosts an evening at the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom celebrating Bauhaus design with beer tastings. Guests can explore special Junghans models and chat with Junghans and Worn & Wound team members about the brand’s design heritage. Snacks and beverages will be served, and one attendee will win a 2025 edition of the 1972 Chronoscope Sports Edition. RSVP is required for entry at 540 President Street, Suite 1G, Brooklyn, NY.
Highlights: Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXI spotlights pocket watches that trace two centuries of horological evolution. Highlights include an S. Smith & Son Tourbillon Chronometer with Kew Class A certification and a Patek Philippe tourbillon crowned at the 1924 Geneva Astronomical Observatory. The catalog also features enamel masterpieces and pieces tailored to the southern Chinese market, reflecting East–West exchange. Preview runs November 15–23, with auctions November 21–23 in the West Kowloon Cultural District.
The Latest Time
Bamford
Bamford launches exclusive Disney watch with Selfridges
Bamford London teamed up with Disney for the limited-edition Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Bamford Steel GMT, sold exclusively at Selfridges. Limited to 50 pieces, it takes inspiration from Mickey Mouse’s Fantasia role and features a satin navy dial in a 40 mm 316L steel case. The watch runs on the Sellita SW330-2 automatic with 56 hours of power reserve, offers GMT functionality, and is water resistant to 100 meters. It ships on a navy Cordura strap in a collector’s box shaped like Mickey’s silhouette and is priced at £1,800.
Breitling
Breitling Gets Festive With Limited-edition Red Gold Capsule
Breitling unveiled a five-watch capsule in 18K red gold for the holidays, comprising three Navitimers and two Premiers. The models introduce exclusive dial colors and fresh movements, pairing each watch with a color-matched alligator strap and red-gold clasp. The Navitimer designs nod to the 1952 pilot’s icon, while the Premier pieces celebrate the brand’s mid-century land chronographs. The collection is limited in availability and priced from $13,300 to $22,700 at select boutiques and online.
Christopher Ward
Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière
The C1 Bel Canto Lumière evolves the Bel Canto concept with layered Super‑LumiNova that creates dramatic blue and green effects after dark. Housed in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, it retains the discreet hourly chime and is powered by a regulated Sellita SW200‑1 caliber. At just 53 grams on the luminous strap, it focuses on wearability as much as visual theatre. Prices start at €4,615 on the Aquaflex Lume rubber strap.
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière Turns the Chime Into a Full-On Light Show - Read More >
Circula
Circula Unveils the ProSea: A Modern Dive Watch Inspired by the Manta Ray
Circula’s ProSea adds a manta ray–inspired, textured design to its tool watch lineup with a hardened 40 mm 316L steel case. A two-tone rehaut and ceramic bezel emphasize legibility and durability, backed by 200 m of water resistance. Inside is the Swiss Sellita SW200‑1a automatic with a 41‑hour power reserve. Available in blue, petrol, and anthracite, it’s priced at $1,090 on rubber or $1,290 with both rubber and steel bracelet.
Czapek & Cie
The Czapek Time Jumper — A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect
Czapek celebrates its revival with the Time Jumper, a limited series pairing a modern jump-hour display with a half-hunter cover that includes a magnifier. Its open-worked Calibre 10.01 shows jumping hours on twin sapphire discs with trailing minutes, beneath a guilloché pattern that creates a striking optical illusion. Case design leans futuristic yet maintains classical craft, with steel and yellow gold variants. The run is tightly limited to mark the anniversary.
Czapek Time Jumper - Read More >
Kollokium
Back in Blue, Meet the Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant G
The Variant G continues Kollokium’s neo‑brutalist theme with a 40 mm die‑cast steel case and a new soft blue dial for improved legibility. Its dial is built from 468 hand‑applied steel pins set at varying heights and widths, filled with luminous blue pigments. Powered by La Joux‑Perret’s automatic G101 (68‑hour reserve), it comes on a navy elastic textile strap with hook fastening. Limited to 499 pieces at CHF 2,999 (ex‑tax).
Nomos
Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig
Nomos introduces precious metal takes on two signatures: the Tangente Gold Neomatik (DUW 3001 automatic) and the Ludwig Gold (DUW 4001 hand‑wound), both in 35 mm gold cases. The Tangente leans Bauhaus-minimal with slim proportions and refined finishes, while the Ludwig adds Roman numerals and a railroad minute track for a classical tone. Both include Shell Cordovan straps and enter the permanent collection. Pricing is EUR 9,800 for Tangente Gold Neomatik and EUR 8,700 for Ludwig Gold.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Casio
“OUTATIME” Casio Calculator CA-500W Watch Celebrates Back To The Future Movie 40th Anniversary
Casio marks the 40th anniversary of Back to the Future with a special CA-500EWBF-1A that nods to the DeLorean’s stainless-steel look with a shiny chrome case and single-link steel bracelet. Details like the “OUTATIME” license plate graphic and a Flux Capacitor motif deepen the nostalgic theme, while classic calculator-watch functions keep it practical. The packaging mimics a VHS tape for a full throwback experience, and the retail price is $120. This release aims to rekindle love for vintage calculator watches through pop culture appeal.
Jack Mason
Jack Mason’s Strat-o-Timer GMT Is Impossible to Ignore Now
The Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT updates a popular affordable GMT with a lightweight titanium case and bracelet, a refreshed dial, and a new partially skeletonized GMT hand. Its ceramic bezel now serves a 60-minute dive timer while GMT markings shift to the dial, maintaining the 40 mm proportions and brushed finish. The watch runs on the Miyota 9075 with a travel-friendly local hour jump, and it’s priced at $1,399—about $250 over the steel model. A vivid cobalt blue option and included rubber strap round out the value proposition.
Vacheron Constantin
Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th
For its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled standout Les Cabinotiers pieces including the reversible Cosmica Duo with 24 astronomical functions and the diamond-laden Moon Dust with 16 complications. The Cosmica Duo pairs a deep blue sidereal sky and time zone displays with a skeletonized reverse revealing a tourbillon and celestial indicators. Moon Dust emphasizes opulence with extensive baguette diamonds and grand complications like a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. Together they highlight the maison’s blend of technical ambition and aesthetic refinement.
Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”
This unique piece celebrates the brand’s 270th with a double‑axis armillary tourbillon, bi‑retrograde time, and an intricately engraved yellow‑gold case inspired by the Pleiades myth. The heavily open‑worked dial and case took hundreds of hours to finish, showcasing artisanal engraving and mechanical virtuosity. Inside, the Caliber 1990 delivers COSC certification and a 65‑hour power reserve in a 45 mm 18k pink gold case. It’s available exclusively through boutiques with pricing on request.
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Lunaire 42MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (Q6042520) - was bid to $15,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2022 Urwerk UR-T8 Transformer “20th Anniversary” L.E. 48.35MM Black Dial Leather Strap (UR-T8-Black)
Auction Report: “When Time Bends: The Urwerk UR-T8 Transformer 20th Anniversary”
There are statement watches, there are independent watchmaking flexes, and then there is the Urwerk UR-T8 Transformer 20th Anniversary—a kinetic sculpture with a wrist strap. Released in 2017 to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary, the UR-T8 marked a turning point in Urwerk’s already avant-garde design language. This was the first reversible case in the brand’s history, a literal flipping of expectations in which the watch swivels inside its cradle to reveal either the satellite display or a fully armored, shielded caseback. In one motion, the T8 transforms from a sci-fi time display into a futuristic black monolith, a concept that pushed Urwerk from “creative independent” into “mechanical renegade.”
The 20th Anniversary Limited Edition came in only 30 pieces, and this example—dated April 20, 2022—represents one of the most elusive modern Urwerks to appear at auction. The PVD-coated titanium case is enormous yet ergonomic, measuring 60.23mm by 48.35mm, built to exaggerate the Transformer effect and enhance the depth of the openworked mechanical landscape. Under the curved sapphire crystal, the T8’s signature wandering satellite complication rotates its three hour modules along a 120-degree minute track, each disc counter-rotating to keep numerals upright. This choreography of planetary gearing, cams, and carousels is the kind of mechanical theater that justifies Urwerk’s cult status.
Market-wise, the UR-T8 has always been a rare sight. Original retail hovered near $100,000 depending on edition, with early examples trading hands in the $85,000–$110,000 range during the indie-boom years of 2020–2022. More recent sales show a stabilized but still thin market, with private-treaty deals and the occasional auction result suggesting mid-to-high five-figure expectations. The black PVD limited editions—especially the ultra-scarce 20th Anniversary run—tend to command premiums due to their sharper aesthetics and microscopic production numbers. Given the condition of this watch, its full box and papers, and today’s stronger appetite for neo-vanguard independents, bidding interest should be substantial.
As an auction piece, this UR-T8 offers something that’s increasingly hard to find in the independent segment: radical design unburdened by hype cycles. It’s not a minimalist micro-brand diver or a neo-vintage reissue—it’s a rebellious, architectural object that feels built for collectors who want something genuinely different. With its limited edition pedigree, excellent condition, and the Transformer complication that remains one of Urwerk’s most theatrical creations, this example landing at auction tonight at 10:56 p.m. is poised to draw the attention of seasoned Urwerk collectors and newer indie-watch enthusiasts alike. However it hammers, it will stand as a reminder that when Urwerk celebrates an anniversary, they don’t bake a cake—they build a spaceship.
Current bid: $25,000