BuyingTime Daily - November 13, 2025
Tariff relief may finally be here as Trump eyes a Swiss deal, plus big moves from LVMH, AP’s new leadership era, fresh releases, and a sizzling JLC Duomètre at auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — November 13, 2025
Today feels like one of those rare days when geopolitics, haute horlogerie, and a bit of good old-fashioned watch-world drama all intersect—and for once, the mood is trending upward. The big headline, of course, is that President Trump could sign a Swiss trade deal as soon as today, potentially slashing the brutal 39% tariff down to a far friendlier 15%. Swiss executives are suddenly smiling again, polishing their inventory a little brighter, and whispering “maybe today” like schoolkids waiting for a snow day announcement. Whether the final terms get tangled in U.S. demands for concessions in energy or defense remains to be seen, but hope is very much alive—and the industry needs the relief.
Corporate maneuvering continues as LVMH quietly but strategically takes a minority stake in movement specialist La Joux-Perret. This is vertical integration with finesse, reinforcing the group’s pipeline for TAG Heuer and Tiffany & Co. while preserving LJP’s independence. With La Joux-Perret’s solar-quartz and mechanical know-how, future LVMH sports and everyday collections may lean greener and sharper at the same time. Meanwhile, things at Audemars Piguetare getting a little more cosmopolitan. CEO Ilaria Resta’s ten-person leadership team is a blend of insiders, outsiders, and multidisciplinarians—a deliberate cultural reboot for AP’s next 150 years, powered by big-tent thinking rather than pure horological lineage.
On the retail front, Christopher Ward continues its global charm offensive by opening a new appointment-only showroom in Mayfair, betting that customers want to handle the goods without sacrificing the brand’s direct-to-consumer pricing. Demand for hands-on time seems strong enough that bookings are capped at just 30 visitors a day. And speaking of curated experiences, the 2025 GPHG unveils its roster of pre-selected finalists across fifteen categories today. Whether you’re a complication chaser or a Challenge-class realist, there’s something to root for ahead of tonight’s prize ceremony.
Education gets its own spotlight as the Horological Society of New York unveils a major expansion of its financial aid, boosted by a donation that triples its scholarship pool and opens international access for the first time. Add in a new Independent Watchmaker Grant Program, and the message is clear: tomorrow’s horology needs more hands, more craft, and more imagination—and HSNY plans to fund it.
Feature stories today bring serious heat, including a gripping account from Geneva’s auction weekend centered on a steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 that thundered to CHF 14.19 million after an opening volley bid of CHF 8 million. If you’ve ever wanted a front-row seat to high-stakes collecting, this is it. Meanwhile, the TimeVallée leadership interview offers a peek into how the multisided retail concept is adjusting itself city by city, and Armin Strom co-founder Claude Greisler drops insight on resonance, apprenticeships, and building movements with logic rather than hype.
The new-release parade is long and lively, highlighted by the ultra-limited Arnold & Son Luna Magna in turquoise and opal, a revived Chronoswiss Digiteur pair in jump-hour “no hands” form, and a flurry of new Christopher Ward, Czapek, and Jaeger-LeCoultre references—all proving that 2025 design is anything but sleepy. Even Ralph Lauren gets in on the fun with a turquoise-dial Western model that’s more art piece than “fashion watch.” Add in new releases from Roger Dubuis, Mido, McQuaide, Whitby Watch Co., and others, and you’ve got a day brimming with color, complications, and limited editions.
Reviews today range from the platinum A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon—possibly the world’s most elegant black-tie flex—to a fresh quartet of Nomos Tetra Origins and a closer look at the charmingly understated Parmigiani Fleurier Toric. There’s also an affordable gem in the solar Timex Expedition Field Post Solar, which proves that under $200 can still get you a dependable field watch with real presence. And for those who prefer their anniversaries astronomical, Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind 270th-anniversary pieces are a reminder that horology’s upper stratosphere is alive and well.
The auction circuit is heating up, too. Wednesday’s Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “John Mayer” in yellow gold hit $61,500 but failed to clear reserve—so yes, offers may be entertained if your courage (and wallet) allow. Today’s highlighted listing is the 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire in rose gold. The Dual-Wing Calibre 381 remains one of the most conceptually brilliant movements JLC has ever produced, and the market appears to be rediscovering first-generation Duomètres since the line’s 2024 relaunch. Bidding sits at a modest $5,000 as of this writing, with a realistic end range around $18,000–$24,000 depending on appetite and nerves. The foudroyante at 6 o’clock will do plenty of flexing if you win.
Plenty more to enjoy across Talking Time, new releases, and the ongoing 2025 performance trackers—all reminding us that even with macro uncertainty, the watch universe keeps spinning with its usual mix of innovation, optimism, and occasional chaos. And maybe—just maybe—we’ll see those tariffs drop today. Fingers crossed. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Trump could sign Swiss trade deal as early as today
Swiss watchmakers are optimistic that the current 39% additional tariff on exports to the U.S. could be reduced to 15% as soon as today (Thursday), following a recent Oval Office meeting that improved the tone of negotiations. Talks led by Switzerland’s economy minister Guy Parmelin and U.S. trade representative Jamieson Greer have reportedly become more positive. President Trump has signaled a willingness to lower tariffs, though final terms still need approval and may include U.S. asks in defense, energy, gold, and pharmaceuticals. The outcome remains uncertain, but industry sentiment is improving.
LVMH Acquires Minority Stake in Swiss Manufacture La Joux-Perret
LVMH has taken a minority stake in movement maker La Joux-Perret, strengthening vertical integration across its watch brands after a fruitful commercial relationship benefiting TAG Heuer and Tiffany & Co. La Joux-Perret controls the full value chain from development to assembly, with capabilities spanning automatic calibers to high-precision solar quartz. The structure preserves La Joux-Perret’s independence and client base while deepening collaboration with LVMH’s watch division. A focus on solar energy know-how points to sustainable innovations in LVMH’s future sports and daily-wear collections.
Meet the insiders and outsiders now running Audemars Piguet
CEO Ilaria Resta has assembled a ten-person leadership team, mixing four women and six men from both within and outside traditional watchmaking. The group blends expertise in marketing, finance, legal, and digital transformation, reflecting a deliberate shift toward diverse backgrounds and shared values. Resta emphasizes culture, energy, and collaboration to guide AP into its next 150 years. The structure is designed to spur innovation while respecting the brand’s heritage.
Christopher Ward opens London showroom in Mayfair
Christopher Ward has expanded its physical retail footprint with an appointment-only showroom near Savile Row, following strong performance from its U.S. lounges. The brand aims to enhance the buying experience by letting customers handle the watches while retaining direct-to-consumer pricing advantages. The space will showcase the full collection and is expected to be the company’s highest-traffic site, with bookings available from November 17. Capacity is limited to three appointments per hour, accommodating up to 30 visitors daily.
All Pre-Selected Watches in the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The 2025 GPHG features six pre-selected watches in each of 15 categories, spanning Ladies’, Men’s, Complications, Iconic, Tourbillon, and Mechanical Exception, among others. The lineup showcases aesthetic refinement, creative mechanics, and accessible entries via the Petite Aiguille and Challenge classes. The prize presentation is scheduled for November 13, 2025. Enthusiasts can explore the full nominations for a detailed look at this year’s standout timepieces.
The Horological Society Of New York Expands Financial Aid Programs With Donation From The Vogt Foundation
A major donation from the Vogt Foundation will triple HSNY’s annual scholarship pool from $160,000 to $480,000 and, for the first time, open eligibility to international applicants. The gift also launches an Independent Watchmaker Grant Program to fund essential tooling and startup needs based on innovation and design quality. HSNY leaders highlight the initiative as critical support for preserving human craftsmanship in a digital age. The expanded programs aim to cultivate the next generation of horological talent worldwide.
Feature Time
At My 7 O’Clock: The Closest Look You’ll Ever Get at a Steel Patek Philippe 1518
A firsthand account of Geneva auction weekend captures the drama around a rare steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518, including an audacious CHF 8 million bid from a prominent collector. The piece explores the tension and excitement in the room as the watch ultimately sells for CHF 14.19 million. It also examines the intricacies of vintage condition and restoration, underscoring how transparency and history shape value. The narrative offers a nuanced view of why this 1518 sits at the pinnacle of collecting.
The Big Interview: Hélène Maslin, deputy CEO, TimeVallée
Hélène Maslin discusses TimeVallée’s new Arcadia, Greater Los Angeles boutique, the brand’s third in North America, developed with CH Jewelers. Each location is tailored to its market while preserving an immersive luxury experience, offering a curated set of brands and services including a VIP salon and watch servicing. With roughly 50 boutiques in 15 countries, TimeVallée grows through local partners who understand regional clients and brand identity. The aim is a stable, long-term platform that enhances both partner value and customer care.
Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom
Armin Strom co-founder Claude Greisler traces his journey from apprentice to independent manufacture, and how the brand evolved from skeletonization to movement creation. He explains Armin Strom’s philosophy of mechanical transparency and logically structured calibers, where every component has purpose. A highlight is the resonance system, with twin balance wheels that stabilize rate deviations for improved precision and visual intrigue. Greisler hints at future complications while reaffirming a focus on genuine innovation over hype.
Citizen Promaster vs Seiko Turtle: Affordable Dive Watch Showdown
This comparison pits two beloved divers with different philosophies against each other. The Citizen Promaster champions practicality with solar Eco-Drive convenience, durability, and lightweight comfort, making it ideal for everyday wear. The Seiko Turtle appeals to enthusiasts who value mechanical charm, a tactile winding experience, and vintage-inspired design, though it requires more attention. Both excel as tools, but the Promaster is ultimately crowned the better everyday diver for reliability and ease of use.
The Latest Time
Arnold & Son
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Red Gold 5N Turquoise Edition. Exclusive to Exquisite Timepieces
This ultra-limited Luna Magna edition, created with Exquisite Timepieces, features a 12 mm three-dimensional moon sphere crafted half in turquoise and half in Cacholong opal to evoke the bond between Earth and sky. The 44 mm 18K 5N red gold case frames an Arizona turquoise dial, while the opal hour subdial receives SuperLumiNova for legibility. The moon completes its 29.5-day cycle in sync with the lunation, showcasing both artistry and technical execution. Only five pieces will be made, underscoring rarity and craftsmanship.
Chronoswiss
The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Sand And Granit — Two Homage “Montres Sans Aiguilles” In Steel
Chronoswiss revives its 2005 handless Digiteur concept with two limited 99-piece versions, Sand and Granit, each in a 30 x 48 mm stainless case. Time is displayed via jumping hours and digital minutes driven by the manual C.85757 movement with 48-hour power reserve. Artisanal touches include partial hand-guilloché on the movement and a sandblasted case segment for contrast. Pricing is CHF 12,500 / €13,800 / US$15,200.
The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur, The Return of the Brand’s Jumping Hour Guichet Watch - Read More >
Christopher Ward
The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V
Christopher Ward reintroduces its mechanical jump-hour complication in a refined 39 mm steel case with layered dial construction and a ceramic Globolight insert for legibility. The proprietary JJ01 module enables an instantaneous hour jump atop a Sellita SW200-1 automatic base with 38-hour reserve. Available in two variants with either bracelet or leather, water resistance is 30 meters. Pricing is €2,975 on bracelet and €2,800 on leather.
Christopher Ward Can’t Keep Getting Away With This - Read More >
Czapek & Cie
Czapek Genève Time Jumper. A Retro-Futuristic Celebration of 10 Years of Rebirth
Marking a decade since its rebirth, Czapek debuts the Time Jumper with a new Calibre 10 and a distinctive jumping hour display on dual sapphire discs. The retro-futuristic design nods to pocket watch heritage with a half-hunter style while setting a foundation for future complications. Limited to 180 movements, it comes in steel or 18K yellow gold. Pricing starts at CHF 42,000 (steel) and CHF 64,000 (gold).
The new Czapek Time Jumper, A Double-Digit Jumping Hour Guichet Watch - Read More >
Maison de Revolution
Maison de Revolution x Fam-al Hut Nebula
This 25-piece limited edition celebrates independent watchmaking with a bi-axis tourbillon housed in Amorphous Zirconium. The collaboration reflects founders’ passion for astronomy and honors Revolution’s 20th anniversary through design details. The Maison serves as a curated platform connecting collectors with distinctive independents, emphasizing storytelling and craft. Appointments are hosted at Revolution Watch Bar in Singapore.
McQuaide
McQuaide unveils its second Damascus Steel series: the C1 Cosmopolitan
McQuaide’s second collection leans into British watchmaking with unique Damascus Steel cases and a refined, urban design. The 39 mm cushion case, 100 m water resistance, and Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement aim for daily versatility. Four textured guilloché dial colors reference nature and travel experiences, and each watch bears a distinctive Damascus signature. Assembled in Berkshire, the collection launched globally following a Kickstarter debut.
Mido
The New and Fun Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02
A 40 mm TV-shaped case with grey PVD finish frames a multicolour relief “pixel-noise” dial and a big date at 12 o’clock. The Calibre 80 delivers an 80-hour reserve, while the quick-change system swaps between a grey-PVD bracelet and bold rubber straps. With 100 m water resistance and a screw-down crown, it blends playful design with practicality. Priced at CHF 1,290, it’s a special edition without numerical limitation.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Adds a Turquoise Dial to their Western Watch Collection
Ralph Lauren expands its Western Watch Collection with a striking turquoise dial that underscores the brand’s Americana roots. Movements by Piaget, hand-engraved cases, and Texas-tooled leather straps distinguish these from mass-market fashion watches. Pricing for standard versions ranges from $24,900 (sterling silver) to $40,500 (gold), with the new turquoise likely similar. Limited production accentuates exclusivity for collectors.
Roger Dubuis
Bi-Retrograde’s Back: Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide
For its 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis revives the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar in the Hommage La Placide, limited to 28 pieces. A traditional 38 mm pink gold case houses refurbished RD14 movements, showcasing heritage with modernized reliability. A layered dial, retrograde indicators, and Poinçon de Genève finishing elevate the composition. Boutique-exclusive, it’s priced at CHF 115,000.
Roger Dubuis Hommage ‘La Placide’ Perpetual Calendar. A Tribute to the Master Himself - Read More >
Whitby Watch Co.
The Whitby Watch Co. CF-100 “Canuck” Watch Pays Tribute to Canada’s All-Weather Fighter
Inspired by the Avro CF-100, the titanium “Canuck” comes in 39 and 43 mm sizes with 100 m water resistance and SW200-1 calibers. The Mark I echoes the jet’s rounded nose, while the Mark II adopts a turbine motif; both feature a lightning bolt seconds hand. The collection also includes the Arrow pilot watch with a Seiko NH38 automatic movement. Together they merge functional design with Canadian heritage cues.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Is the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon In Platinum The Perfect Tuxedo Watch?
This limited-edition 1815 Tourbillon pairs a 950 platinum case with a deep black baked enamel dial for formal elegance. Its hand-wound caliber L102.1 features a tourbillon with zero-reset for precise setting and a 72-hour power reserve. Sized at 39.5 mm by 11.3 mm, it’s designed as an evening piece, though the dark dial slightly tempers legibility. Limited to 50 pieces and priced around €220,000, it blends traditional finishing with modern mechanics.
Nomos
Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches
The Tetra Origins series introduces four square dress watches in muted, nature-inspired tones like Ochra, Salvia, Terra, and Basalt. Each 29.5 mm model remains slim and comfortable, with contrasting sub-dials and bright accents that elevate the minimalist design. Powered by the in-house DUW 4001 with a 53-hour reserve, they offer everyday practicality with 5 atm water resistance. Offered on vegan velour or steel bracelet, pricing ranges from €1,960 to €2,180 depending on the case back.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Simple? Stunning! Closer Look at Parmigiani Fleurier Toric
The Toric showcases Parmigiani’s eye for purity in form, blending understated design with meticulous detailing. Its elegance is matched by technical refinement, reflecting the brand’s high standards in movement finishing and casework. The watch balances classical proportions with contemporary execution, appealing to seasoned collectors and newcomers alike. Overall, it stands out as a quietly luxurious entry in haute horlogerie.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide
Limited to 28 pieces, La Placide honors the founder with a ‘Leman Blue’ dial and a biretrograde perpetual calendar. Housed in a 38 mm pink-gold case, it is crafted in-house to Poinçon de Genève standards and powered by the self-winding Calibre RD1472. The movement integrates the brand’s first automatic calibre with a perpetual calendar module and a 48-hour reserve. It’s a collector-focused piece that marries traditional craft with contemporary expressiveness.
Timex
The Affordable Field Watch We All Needed: Timex Expedition Field Post Solar Review
This 36 mm field watch delivers military styling, solid water resistance, and a screw-down crown in a compact, durable package. A solar quartz movement eliminates winding and keeps ownership fuss-free, though the lume is noted as a weak spot. At $199, it offers reliable utility and classic legibility for daily use. The result is a straightforward, affordable tool watch that earns its place in a collection.
Vacheron Constantin
Unique Pieces to Celebrate Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary
VC marks its 270th year with unique commissions like the reversible Cosmica Duo, which packs 24 astronomical indications into a wearable form. The Celestia models honor Ptolemy and Copernicus with intricate engravings and advanced complications, while the Armillary Tourbillon adds mythic themes via a double‑axis tourbillon. A high jewelry “Moon Dust” underscores the maison’s gem-setting prowess. Together, these pieces fuse technical mastery with artistic expression to commemorate a milestone year.
Watching Time
New Watches of 2025: how they’re performing so far
Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler of Armin Strom
NEW Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour: The Good, the Bad & the Ugly
November News: New watches heaven
Baltic’s Back! The Aquascaphe Mark II
The MANCHESTER UK WATCH SHOW, one of THE best watches shows I’ve ever attended! A Massive Success!
Fam al Hut x Maison de Revolution Möbius Mark I “Nebula”: The Smallest Bi-Axis Tourbillon Ever Made
The Dive Watch I Bought by Mistake
Who Can Build The BEST 4 Watch Collection with @wristenthusiast
Talking Time
The Worn & Wound Podcast Ep. 424: EDC Check-In
The latest episode features a discussion on everyday carry (EDC) items, highlighting recent acquisitions, trends, and seasonal choices as colder months approach. The hosts also share travel and packing strategies, inviting listeners to share their favorite EDC items and questions for future episodes. Listen Now>
The Business of Watches Podcast: Audience Q&A Special With Hodinkee’s Editor-In-Chief James Stacey
In this episode of The Business of Watches, Hodinkee’s Editor-In-Chief, James Stacey, answers audience questions covering topics such as the best perpetual calendars under $20,000, rising watch prices, the increase in Swiss watch exports to the U.K., and the popularity of Halloween in Switzerland. Listeners are encouraged to leave comments and subscribe to the show on various podcast platforms. Listen Now>
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, 2018 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40MM Green “John Mayer” Dial Yellow Gold Oyster Bracelet (116508) - was bid to $61,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Lunaire 42MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (Q6042520)
Auction Report: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire in rose gold is one of those rare birds that reminds you how seriously the Grande Maison takes movement architecture. Inside the 42mm case sits the hand-wound Calibre 381, the original “Dual-Wing” layout with two barrels and two independent gear trains regulated by a single balance—one train for timekeeping, the other to run the calendar and moonphase—so the complications don’t sap the chronometric side. You also get the party trick at 6 o’clock: a foudroyante jumping-seconds hand that snaps in 1/6-second steps, a kinetic tell on the watch’s precision bias. Power reserve is ~50 hours, and the whole affair is finished the old-fashioned way: anglage, polished sinks, and blued screws that reward a loupe.
Launched in the early 2010s and produced across metals, this reference (Q6042520) is the classic rose-gold/white-silver dial configuration with the asymmetrical “inverted pyramid” tri-register layout: hours-minutes at 2, date/moonphase at 10 (Northern/Southern hemisphere readout), twin power-reserves flanking the bottom, and that foudroyante at 6 to tie the two gear trains together. The look lands somewhere between instrument and heirloom—semi-openworked to hint at the mechanics without shouting. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own materials and multiple independent reviews document the core spec: Cal. 381 at 3 Hz, twin barrels, 50-hour reserves, and the Dual-Wing concept patented by the brand.
Market context matters here. Since Jaeger-LeCoultre resurrected the Duomètre line in 2024 (including a new steel Quantième Lunaire at US$49,500), collectors have been revisiting the “first-generation” pieces like this one, which deliver the same movement architecture and foudroyante show without the contemporary retail sticker. That dynamic has provided a soft floor under good examples, even as broader luxury pricing has been choppy.
Recent comps: active dealer/marketplace asks for the rose-gold Quantième Lunaire sit roughly in the low-$20Ks to high-$20Ks depending on year, set completeness, and freshness of service—examples include listings and dealer pages clustered around ~US$21k–$28k, with one aggregation site showing an active Q6042520 at US$21,500. Auction results tend to clear lower than dealer asks; a similar rose-gold Duomètre Quantième Lunaire reference has hammered in the mid- to high-teens at major houses over the past couple of cycles. Net-net, the spread between public-auction comp and optimistic dealer ask is still real on this model.
Given this example is represented in very good condition with boxes, papers dated 2014, and extras, my estimate range is US$18,000–$24,000 all-in as a realistic band, with bidding discipline toward the lower half if there’s no recent service paperwork and the strap/buckle show age. If you’re aiming to resell quickly, try to buy closer to the high-teens; if you’re keeping it, stretching to the low-$20Ks can be justified by the full set and the enduring cachet of the Dual-Wing 381. For reference-level specs—including the 1/6-second foudroyante and movement layout—see the period reviews and dealer tech sheets; for current retail context on the revived line, JLC’s site is the anchor.
Bottom line: if you’ve been waiting for a mechanically special precious-metal piece that doesn’t scream across the room, this is the kind of lot you circle in pen. Just remember that the Duomètre cult is growing again post-2024 refresh, and great, fully documented examples are getting harder to shake loose under US$20k. The auction closes at 9:46 pm EST on Thursday, November 13, 2025—plan your ceiling, and let the foudroyante do the flexing.
Current bid: $5,000