BuyingTime Daily - November 12, 2025
Rolex cools off: Pre-owned prices slip as buyers push back on hype. Geneva auctions soar, independents regroup, and tariff talks tick forward.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Wednesday, November 12, 2025
The Crown is wobbling. Rolex—long the untouchable benchmark of Swiss prestige—is facing a rare reality check as pre-owned prices slide and consumers start catching on that the brand’s halo might have gotten a little too bright (and a lot too pricey). Market trackers can’t agree on the exact slope of the downturn, but WatchCharts logged a 1.1% October decline with the Datejust, Day-Date, GMT-Master II and Daytona all taking hits. After years of speculative frenzy, the crowd that once called every Rolex a “can’t-lose asset” now seems to be asking, “Wait, how much?”
This comes at a fascinating crossroads for watch culture. At the Geneva Fall Auctions, the ultra-elite still rule: a steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 fetched CHF 14.2 million and F.P. Journe continued to capture collector imagination. But the mid-tier vintage market is thinning out, leaving room for independents and creative collaborations to tell fresher stories. Kerbedanz, newly helmed by industry veteran Vahé Vartzbed, aims to inject momentum ahead of its 15th anniversary, proving that personality and craft still count in a price-obsessed landscape.
Meanwhile, innovation hasn’t gone quiet. Jaeger-LeCoultre stunned enthusiasts with its double-sided Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Gyrotourbillon—a rose-gold kinetic sculpture that feels equal parts mechanical ballet and bravado. Hermès lightened the mood with its joyful Arceau Jour de Casting series—dogs, diamonds, and métiers d’art playfulness that remind us time can still smile back. And Bulgari found poetry in light with its Lucea Notte di Luce, blending Japanese Urushi lacquer with Roman gem-setting flair.
Add in the rising tide of regional storytelling—like Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th-anniversary collaborations featuring desert-inspired dials from Ressence, Chronoswiss, and MB&F—and the message is clear: while Rolex searches for its new price equilibrium, creativity across the rest of the industry feels newly liberated.
Even geopolitics is lending drama. The U.S. and Switzerland are reportedly nearing a deal to reduce that punishing 39% tariff on Swiss watches to 15%. After a 55.6% drop in exports to the U.S. in September, any relief would be more than symbolic—it could jump-start optimism across every brand tier.
So yes, Rolex is cooling, collectors are re-evaluating, and the rest of the horological universe is responding with art, imagination, and—dare we say it—better value. In a world learning to spend smarter, that might be the most important watch trend of all. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex pre-owned prices continue rollercoaster rise and fall
Conflicting market indexes have muddied the picture for Rolex prices on the secondary market, with a sharp drop after late-September highs followed by mixed signals from different trackers. A data ingestion error initially distorted one index, but broader trends still point to lingering declines that challenge the notion of stabilization. With ChronoPulse, Subdial x Bloomberg, and EveryWatch each telling a different story, buyers and dealers face uncertainty. In this climate, careful research and expert guidance are more important than ever.
Report: Geneva Fall Auctions 2025
Geneva’s fall auctions saw “trophy” watches capture the spotlight while the broader vintage market softened. A steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518 led at CHF14.2 million, and a notable Breguet pocket watch achieved CHF1.88 million. Independent watchmaking drew rising interest, highlighted by strong results for F.P. Journe. The gap widened between exceptional pieces and more common vintage offerings, underscoring a narrower high-end audience.
HYT’s former CEO returns to lead independent Kerbedanz
Vahé Vartzbed returns to the industry as CEO of Kerbedanz, bringing experience from Roger Dubuis, Girard Perregaux, and Greubel Forsey. His mandate includes expanding the brand’s appeal and refining distribution while preserving its identity in haute horlogerie. Kerbedanz, founded in 2011 and known for the Maximus—the largest wristwatch tourbillon—aims to balance exclusivity with broader desirability. Co-founders signal confidence that new leadership will inject momentum ahead of the brand’s 15th anniversary.
Bonhams Named Lead Auction House For Dubai Watch Week
Bonhams will headline Dubai Watch Week 2025 with a program of previews, valuations, and panel discussions at Dubai Mall. Highlights include a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time and Cartier Bamboo Coussin among the showcased pieces. The event extends beyond watches with fine jewelry, designer handbags, and haute couture. Daily experiences and expert-led sessions are designed to engage both collectors and enthusiasts.
News: Fondation Haute Horlogerie Partners with Geneva Tourism to Unveil Geneva Watchmaking Guide
Geneva Tourism and the FHH have launched a 175-page hardcover guide celebrating the city’s watchmaking heritage. The bilingual French-English volume blends history, manufacturing visits, and technical insights with interviews and illustrations. Priced at CHF 29.50, it’s available at tourism points, museums, hotels, bookstores, and online. The release complements the Geneva Food Guide and invites visitors to explore the living culture of haute horlogerie.
Switzerland closing in on tariff deal for watchmakers
President Trump signaled openness to reducing the 39% additional tariff on Swiss watches, potentially to 15% within two weeks. The talks follow a steep 55.6% drop in Swiss watch sales to the U.S. in September, even as year-to-date exports remained up on pre-tariff stock positioning. The U.S. remains Switzerland’s largest market at CHF 3.5 billion, ahead of Japan and China. Swiss officials have provided limited public detail as negotiations continue.
Hing Wa Lee owner was underbidder for $18m Patek Philippe
David Lee, owner of Hing Wa Lee, was the underbidder on a steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 that sold for CHF 12 million at Phillips Geneva. The 1943 reference, one of only four in steel, drew intense competition and sits among the most significant vintage watches ever made. Six lots exceeded CHF 1 million, including a pink-on-pink Ref. 1518 from 1947 at CHF 3.6 million. Patek Philippe archival confirmation addressed questions about the record-setting piece’s details and provenance.
Feature Time
Six Highlights from Ahmed Seddiqi’s Series of 75th Anniversary Timepieces
To mark its 75th anniversary, Ahmed Seddiqi is collaborating with leading watchmakers on limited editions that fuse regional storytelling with technical craft. Standouts include the Ressence Type 9 S75 using real Emirati sand and a Chronoswiss with a desert-inspired dial. Pieces like the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Tiger’s Eye and the DOXA SUB 250 Seddiqi blend exotic materials with purpose-built engineering. MB&F and Ulysse Nardin editions reinforce the series’ emphasis on innovation, sustainability, and fine finishing.
Best 1970s watches
The 1970s were a watershed decade, ushering in LED and LCD technology alongside bold mechanical innovation. Icons like the Hamilton Pulsar P1 and Omega Seamaster 600 PloProf sat beside purpose-driven classics from Heuer and Rolex. The era also birthed the luxury steel sports watch with integrated bracelets, led by the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s 222, Baume & Mercier’s Riviera, and Cartier’s Santos Carrée expanded the design vocabulary that still shapes modern watchmaking.
Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 1: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (34mm)
This head-to-head pits the Art Deco drama of the rose-gold Reverso against the understated refinement of the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815. The Reverso’s textured dial and Milanese bracelet deliver a confident, luxurious statement. The 1815 counters with compact proportions, crisp German detailing, and versatility that suits everyday elegance. Readers are invited to weigh boldness versus restraint in defining the modern dress watch.
WU25 Panel: A Conversation with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato
Davide Cerrato outlines a revitalized Bremont grounded in aviation heritage and aimed at a broader, younger adventure audience. He highlights durability upgrades, new materials, and extended warranties, framed by a playful-but-serious design ethos. The new Wayfinder logo and “Take It Further” campaign signal an identity that spans land, air, and sea. Expect continued exploration of materials and expanded collections that reinforce Bremont’s exploratory DNA.
Will third time be the charm for a revived Universal Genève?
With Breitling’s backing, Universal Genève is laying the groundwork for a comeback through a refreshed site and limited releases. Early pieces, including Nina Rindt Compaxes and Polerouter anniversary models, use precious metals, grand feu enamel, and a restored calibre 281. Enthusiasts now look to 2026 for a full Polerouter return that balances legacy and modern practicality. Pricing whispers suggest entry points near CHF 15,000, signaling a premium positioning for the storied name.
The Latest Time
Awake
Awake So’n Mài - Fragments
Awake’s So’n Mài – Fragments is a 100-piece limited edition releasing on November 12, 2025. The piece blends artistry and craft to create a distinctive collector-focused design, launched with a deliberately pared-back publishing strategy. With exclusivity at its core, anticipation centers on the model’s creative concept and the brand’s innovative spirit. Interest is expected to be high within the enthusiast community.
Bell & Ross
Navigating Through Time and Space: Meet the Bell & Ross BR 03 GMT Compass
Limited to 500 pieces, the BR 03 GMT Compass fuses dual-time functionality with a compass-inspired layout for modern exploration. A 42mm steel case frames a black dial with compass-style markings, a red GMT “needle,” and a bi-directional 24-hour bezel for tracking a second time zone. Aligning the GMT hand with the sun helps determine cardinal directions, underscoring purposeful design. Powered by the BR-CAL.303 with a 54-hour reserve, it ships with rubber and textile straps and is water-resistant to 100 meters.
Bulgari (Bvlgari)
Bulgari Explores the Poetry of Light with the Lucea Notte di Luce
The Lucea Notte di Luce pairs Japanese Urushi artistry with Roman design, crafted with master Yasuhiro Asai in Kyoto. Layered black lacquer and mother-of-pearl inlays create a dial that shimmers like reflected light, set in 33mm steel or rose gold with a diamond-set bezel. Limited to 80 pieces per variant, it houses an automatic movement with a 48-hour reserve. The piece embodies Bulgari’s commitment to artistic craft and modern luxury.
Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
The Unique Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie
This bespoke 40mm titanium Planetarium Julie showcases a meteorite bezel and sapphire dial over a hand-skeletonized movement. It depicts real-time orbits for Mercury through Saturn, demonstrating the brand’s mastery in astronomical complications. Personalized details celebrate the collector’s daughter, highlighting CVDK’s bespoke capabilities. Though allocated, it exemplifies the atelier’s potential for future custom commissions in materials and complications.
Hanhart
Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date
The 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date reimagines a motorsport aesthetic in deep brown with flyback functionality and a signature red pusher. Its 42mm steel case houses the hand-wound Sellita AMT5100 with 58 hours of power and 0 to +8 sec/day accuracy. Offered on steel bracelet or rugged calfskin bund with quick-release, it’s limited to 200 pieces. Prices are $3,318 on bracelet and $3,089 on bund, with strong utility and style appeal.
Hermès
Hermès Arceau Jour de Casting. When Man’s Best Friend Becomes Metiers d’Art
Three limited Arceau Jour de Casting models celebrate playful canine portraits through wood marquetry, engraving, leather appliqué, and cloisonné enamel. Each 38mm white gold piece features 71 diamonds on the bezel, a leather bone appliqué, and the H1912 automatic movement with 50-hour reserve. “Orson,” “Amy,” and “Taco” each express different métiers d’art techniques in joyful fashion. The series embraces Hermès’ philosophy of time as a canvas for spontaneity and recreation.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
A New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Gyrotourbillon
Limited to 10 pieces, this rose-gold Reverso introduces a double-sided display with black and grey lacquers housing the Calibre 179 Gyrotourbillon. Measuring 51.2 by 31mm, it expands the classical proportions while retaining comfort and visual drama. Independent dial settings and a 24-hour rear display add practicality to the kinetic spectacle. A 40-hour manual reserve and an intricate 46-component folding clasp complete the art-meets-engineering statement.
Kross Studio
Wingardium Leviosa! Harry Potter and the Floating Tourbillon
Kross Studio’s limited run of 10 features a central flying tourbillon with hand-painted figures orbiting the dial in pursuit of the golden snitch. The 42mm watch is powered by the KS 7,006 with a 120-hour reserve across 229 components, channeling the Hogwarts clock tower’s design language. Each piece includes a music box playing “Hedwig’s Theme,” enhancing the narrative experience. Priced at CHF 120,000, it blends whimsical storytelling with haute horlogerie.
Moritz Grossmann
The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar
Celebrating the brand’s 17th anniversary, this perpetual calendar in 18k rose gold or 950 platinum balances traditional craft with a modern, legible peripheral date. The 41mm case with sapphire crystals houses the new Calibre 101.13, totaling 401 components and a 42-hour reserve. Functions include small seconds, moon phase, and leap year, with a patented winder system for protection. Priced at EUR 83,000 (gold) and EUR 91,800 (platinum), it’s paired with a dark brown alligator strap.
Peren
The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph
Peren’s new chronograph fuses minimalist ‘80s cues with a dual-register dial and Globolight indices in a 200m marine-grade steel case. The Seiko VK64 meca-quartz delivers quartz accuracy with mechanical chronograph feel, priced at CHF 569 during pre-order and CHF 693 thereafter. Limited to 1,111 numbered pieces, it ships in January 2026 on a steel bracelet with brushed and bead-blasted finishing. It’s an accessible, design-forward addition to Peren’s growing lineup.
Rado
The New Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart Sparkling
Rado’s 38mm high-tech ceramic case in white or plasma frames an electroplated openworked dial with a diamond-powder effect and 12 diamond markers. The calibre R734 offers an 80-hour reserve, pairing daily practicality with a lightweight, scratch-resistant build. Water-resistant to 50 meters, it’s designed for versatile wear with polished contours and refined ergonomics. Retail is CHF 3,050, highlighting Rado’s materials expertise and modern elegance.
Unimatic
Unimatic and Todd Snyder Team Up Again for the Modello Quattro U4-GMT
The 40mm stainless steel U4-GMT arrives in two limited styles—100 black and 250 cream—with a streamlined, dateless dial and 300m resistance. Powered by the NH34A GMT with a 41-hour reserve, it blends everyday utility with crisp, Bauhaus-inspired numerals. A quick-release textured suede strap and strong lume support wearability and legibility. Priced at $998, it’s sold via ToddSnyder.com and select stores.
Vaer
Worn & Wound Team Up With Fan Faves Vaer And Topo For The New Solar Hiker
This solar-powered 38mm field watch offers 200m resistance, oversized numerals, and strong lume, with a dual-scale ceramic bezel for timing and travel. Available in green (brushed steel) or black (DLC), it includes colorful hook-and-loop straps and a custom EDC case. Limited to 300 green and 200 black, it’s powered by the Epson VS22 with up to six months of reserve. Priced at $349, pre-orders ship in early December.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Review: A Sensible Amalgam Of Dress Watch Styles
The Classics Premiere pairs a Swiss Made La Joux-Perret G100 automatic with a mid-range dress watch design that borrows cues from Breguet and Patek Philippe. Applied Breguet-style numerals and a polished steel case create broad appeal, though polished hands and markers can hinder legibility in certain light. At 38.5mm by 10.7mm with 50 meters of water resistance, it is versatile for daily wear and runs at 4Hz with a 68-hour reserve. Priced at $2,395 USD, it targets multi-brand retail shoppers who want enthusiast-grade components with a familiar look.
Kiwame Tokyo
Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo
Kiwame Tokyo’s first models, the Usuki and Kurotsuki, embrace a “Japanese Calatrava” aesthetic with compact 38mm cases and the reliable Miyota 9039 automatic movement. The Usuki offers an off-white dial with applied black Breguet numerals, while the Kurotsuki brings a glossy black dial with brushed numerals. Each balances elegance and wearability at an accessible $650 price point, reflecting the rise of Japanese microbrands beyond the major players. Though limited to 99 pieces each and now sold out, the strong reception hints at promising future releases.
Lebois Co.
Hands-On: The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf”
To mark its 90th anniversary, Lebois & Co presents a manual-wind column-wheel chronograph with a Grand Feu enamel dial in a warm eggshell tone. The 10.9mm-thick steel case is wearable and water resistant to 50 meters, while black Breguet numerals, leaf hands, and a pulsometer scale emphasize classic charm. Inside, the La Joux-Perret LC-450 delivers a 60-hour reserve at 28,800 vph. Limited to 25 pieces per year via subscription, it is priced at EUR 9,800 with a EUR 2,940 deposit.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2022 H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Tourbillon 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (8804-1200)- was bid to $18,400 but did not meet its reserve of $38,000. - make an offer]
2018 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40MM Green “John Mayer” Dial Yellow Gold Oyster Bracelet (116508)
Auction Report: Rolex Daytona 116508 “John Mayer” – Green Fire, Calmer Fever
The 2018 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40mm Green “John Mayer” Dial in yellow gold (116508) remains one of the few modern references that can still make a seasoned collector’s pulse jump without any help from crypto or Instagram. This example, represented as being in good condition and offered with box (inner and outer) and papers, is exactly the configuration the market continues to reward: full set, clean provenance, peak-era production, and that iridescent green dial that turned a precious-metal Daytona into a modern cult object.
Introduced in 2016, the 116508 with green sunburst dial and yellow gold case (often catalogued as 116508-0013) was originally just another precious-metal Daytona variant sitting politely in display trays next to more conventional champagne and black dials. Then John Mayer went on Hodinkee’s “Talking Watches” in 2019, called it a sleeper and wore it like he meant it—and the watch was reborn with a nickname and a waiting list. Secondary prices rocketed from under retail to six-figure territory at the 2021–2022 peak. Detailed market analyses from platforms like Wristcheck and others chart that run-up and the subsequent cooling as broader watch speculation deflated, while confirming the “John Mayer” as one of the standout Daytonas of its era. The model was discontinued in 2023 when Rolex refreshed the Daytona line, formally locking in its status as a closed chapter, not a revolving-door SKU.
Fast forward to November 2025 and we’re in the post-hysteria, price-discovery phase. The crazy 120–130k asks are mostly gone; today, data-driven sources peg the green-dial 116508 “John Mayer” variant in the roughly $70,000–$80,000 trading band for strong full-set examples, with some dealer listings and marketplaces still fishing higher in the mid-$80s to low-$90s and others transacting comfortably in the high-$60s to low-$70s depending on year, condition, and completeness. WatchCharts’ breakdown shows the green 0013 variant carrying a meaningful premium over other 116508 dials, reinforcing that the market still distinguishes “John Mayer” from the generic yellow-gold Daytona, even after the broader correction.
This 2018 example with box and papers lands in the market’s sweet spot. It benefits from being squarely in the recognized production window, backed by the Caliber 4130, with the right dial, the right metal, and the right kit. The seller’s “good condition” representation (assuming honest, unpolished or sympathetically polished case, clean dial, and a bracelet without excessive stretch) keeps it firmly in the investable and wearable category: desirable enough for collectors tracking reference-correct sets, but not so fragile or museum-grade that it can’t see wrist time.
For bidders heading into the 8:12 pm EST close on Wednesday, November 12, 2025, the play here is disciplined, not nostalgic. A rational target range for this watch, in today’s environment, would be to secure it in the high-$60,000s to low/mid-$70,000s all-in. In that band, you’re buying a discontinued, culturally cemented modern icon at a sustainable post-bubble level, with real long-term liquidity and narrative value. Pushing past the high-$70,000s and into the mid-$80,000s or more means you are paying a premium for the story—John Mayer, the meme, the glory days of peak speculation—and betting that this particular shade of green will always command a halo. That’s not irrational, but it is emotional. As an Auction Report call: if this lot closes in the low-$70,000s all-in, it’s a strong, defensible acquisition; if it chases well beyond that, let someone else buy the memory of 2021.
Current bid: $40,700