BuyingTime Daily - November 11, 2025
Prices bite back, Miles Teller flaunts TAG x Porsche, Rolex gifts Trump a desk clock, and Geneva auctions remind us heritage still hammers high.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Welcome to today’s edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe—your daily micro-dose of wrist-watch world news, served up light but incisive, for November 11 2025.
It seems the luxury watch industry may have built its own booby trap. According to an analysis published by Ariel Adams Ltd. (“According to Ariel”), escalating prices at the top of the market have started to alienate buyers rather than impress them. The argument: brands kept pushing cost higher without delivering meaningful innovation or cultivating new buyers, and now demand is faltering. If this holds, we could be witnessing a reckoning where price (not supply) becomes the real gatekeeper—and where accessible pricing and higher production volume might be the rescue path.
In more show-and-tell territory, actor Miles Teller was spotted hosting Saturday Night Live, wearing the collaboration piece between TAG Heuer and Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. It’s a 42 mm chronograph with a “sprint” hand that whips ahead in the first 9-ish seconds—a fun nod to the original Porsche 911’s acceleration. The rose-gold version he wore is clearly style-forward, and the placement underscores TAG Heuer’s desire to reach a broader audience via pop culture rather than just horology purists.
On the diplomatic business front, it’s been confirmed that a desk-clock gifted to Donald Trump by Swiss business leaders came from Rolex. The letter from CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour framed it as a symbol of Swiss-U.S. friendship, with design cues drawn from Rolex’s Datejust lineage (fluted bezel, green dial). Although this clock isn’t commercially available, it underscores the way high horology sometimes intersects soft diplomacy - as in a bribe. This was part of a larger meeting focused on business ties amid trade/tariff issues.
Looking at the auction floor, the eventful week in Geneva gave us everything from a modest Lip “Paul Newman” at CHF 3,000 to a steel Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph hammering for CHF 12 million. On top of that, the stalwart Breguet’s 250th anniversary sale saw a pocket watch fetch CHF 1.88 million and a clock hit CHF 1.9 million. The takeaway: heritage still counts, but wristwatch lots (especially steel/modern) are dominating headlines. If you follow auctions, you’re seeing value consolidating around brands and materials that say “now”. (Data per multiple auction houses.)
In feature land, an interview with Girard‑Perregaux’s Managing Director Marc Michel-Amadry reveals a strategy pivot to combine heritage (Laureato, Three Bridges) with new-tech manufacturing and sustainability. The brand wants to reclaim its place in haute horlogerie by being agile, independent, and future-ready. Points of emphasis: shared facilities with Ulysse Nardin, yet distinct identities; and upcoming launch of Calibre 4800 to mark Laureato’s 50th anniversary.
Meanwhile, the debate around theft and fraud prevention in the watch world saw a lively comparison: The Watch Register (human-oversight recovery services) vs. Enquirus (AI-driven image recognition). The up-shot: different models serve different stages of the problem, but collaboration across buyers, sellers, insurers and law-enforcement remains critical if the illicit side of the business is to be tamed.
On the ultra-artistry front, Vacheron Constantin just released its “Les Cabinotiers” high complication series (Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”, Cosmica Duo Grand Complication with 24 complications, Moon Dust, Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication). These aren’t about volume—they’re about showing technical and artistic command, bespoke commissions, gem-setting and enamel-work on sprawling mechanical canvases. For the collector who wants expression more than exclusivity, this is the playground.
For more accessible gift ideas this holiday season, the curated list of sub-$1,000 watches stands out: rugged fashion pieces like the G-Shock “CasiOak”, the Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51, the Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Diver, the Orient Kamasu, and the Tissot PRX all offer strong value and design without bleeding your wallet dry.
And finally, in deep-watch-nerd territory: the 21st-century calibre breakthroughs. From Ulysse Nardin’s Freak (silicon innovation) to F.P. Journe Octa 1300 (120-hour autonomy) to Urwerk’s UR-103 and MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential (dual trains, Twinverter) — these tell us tradition and avant-garde aren’t mutually exclusive. The technology lesson: watchmaking isn’t just fashion—it’s engineering.
That wraps today’s “Time Graphing” scan of the universe. Keep your wrists sharp, your mind curious, and your mix of serious horology and accessible style alive. I’ll be back tomorrow with more tick-tock tales. - Michael Wolf
News Time
According To Ariel: The Luxury Watch Industry Created Its Own Worst Enemy With High Prices — Now It Faces A Reckoning
Escalating prices across luxury watch brands have alienated buyers, prompting many to sit out rather than pay inflated premiums. Repeated hikes without meaningful product changes have strained trust and stunted the cultivation of new customers. The analysis argues that price, not supply, is the core barrier dampening demand. A reset toward more accessible pricing and higher production volumes could broaden appeal and stabilize the market.
Miles Teller wears a TAG Heuer x Porsche Chronosprint on SNL
Miles Teller showcased the TAG Heuer x Porsche Chronosprint while hosting SNL, tying the watch to his high-speed persona after Top Gun: Maverick. The 42mm model, seen here in 18k rose gold with a cream dial, features a distinctive chronograph that accelerates the seconds hand for the first 15 seconds, nodding to the original Porsche 911’s stats. The Chronosprint is offered in steel or rose gold with 100 meters of water resistance and an automatic movement boasting an 80-hour power reserve. TAG Heuer’s placement aims to capture a broader audience through Teller’s visibility.
Confirmed: President Trump’s Mystery Desk Clock Came From Rolex
A desk clock on President Donald Trump’s Resolute Desk was confirmed as a gift (aka bribe) from Rolex during a visit by Swiss business leaders. In a letter from CEO Jean‑Frédéric Dufour, the piece was framed as a symbol of friendship between Switzerland and the United States, with Datejust cues like a fluted bezel and green dial. Not commercially available, the clock underscores traditional Swiss watchmaking and diplomatic goodwill. The meeting focused on strengthening business ties amid tariff tensions, rather than negotiating specific trade agreements.
Geneva Auction Week Report — Highlights From Antiquorum’s Geneva Auction, Phillips’ Watches: Decade One (2015–2025), And The Celebration Of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary Auction At Sotheby’s
Antiquorum’s sale mixed modern and vintage pieces, from a 1960s Lip “Paul Newman” at CHF 3,000 to a rare Rolex Daytona at CHF 150,000, plus a historically notable Glycine “Jump Hour” at CHF 14,000. Phillips’ event notched the week’s marquee result with a steel Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph hammering for CHF 12 million. Sotheby’s honored Breguet’s 250th with standout lots, including a pocket watch at CHF 1.88 million and a clock at CHF 1.9 million. The week underscored brand legacies and collector appetite, with calls for more wristwatch prominence in future Breguet sales.
Feature Time
Interview: Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux
Marc Michel‑Amadry outlines a vision centered on heritage and innovation, spotlighting pillars like the Laureato and the Three Bridges. With decades across watchmaking and auctions, he aims to reinforce GP’s identity as an agile, independent manufacture. He details shared facilities with Ulysse Nardin while keeping brand identities distinct, and previews the Calibre 4800 and the Laureato’s 50th anniversary. The emphasis is on precision, artistry, and sustainability to reclaim GP’s place in haute horlogerie.
Comparative Analysis—Here’s Another Leading Platform’s Approach To Theft And Fraud Prevention
The piece contrasts The Watch Register’s human‑oversight recovery services with Enquirus’ automated, AI‑driven approach. Enquirus focuses on instant checks and image recognition to flag stolen or counterfeit items, prioritizing speed and scale over case recovery. It positions collaboration among buyers, sellers, law enforcement, and insurers as critical to reducing illicit market activity. The result is a complementary ecosystem where different models target distinct stages of theft prevention.
Vacheron Constantin’s High Complication, High Art Les Cabinotiers Releases
Vacheron Constantin unveils astronomical, high‑art pieces such as the Armillary Tourbillon ‘Myth of the Pleiades’ and the double‑sided Cosmica Duo Grand Complication with 24 complications. Additional creations like ‘Moon Dust’ and the Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication blend engraving, gemsetting, and enamel into bespoke works. The series serves as a laboratory for individualized commissions while demonstrating technical virtuosity. Together, these releases reinforce VC’s leadership in artistic and mechanical excellence.
The Best Watches To Gift This Holiday That Look Pricier Than They Are
A curated list of ten sub‑$1,000 watches balances design, function, and value for holiday gifting. Highlights include the rugged, customizable G‑Shock “CasiOak,” Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51, and Citizen Eco‑Drive Promaster Diver. The Orient Kamasu’s strong lume and the Tissot PRX’s refined aesthetic round out versatile options. Each pick reflects hands‑on wear and aims to deliver a premium feel without the premium price.
The 21st-Century Calibre Breakthroughs That Have Redefined Watchmaking
From Ulysse Nardin’s Freak and its silicon revolution to the F.P. Journe Octa 1300’s 120‑hour autonomy, modern calibres have reset expectations. Urwerk’s UR‑103 transformed time display, while Greubel Forsey’s Double Tourbillon 30° attacked positional errors. MB&F’s Legacy Machine Sequential rethought the chronograph with dual trains and the Twinverter. These innovations show how tradition and cutting‑edge engineering can coexist to elevate the wearing experience.
Gucci Play
Gucci revives its 1980s interchangeable‑bezel icon with modern upgrades, now called the Gucci Play. The bangle‑style watch gains ceramic bezels, a larger head, a thicker bracelet, and 50m water resistance. Six color bezels and distinctive packaging emphasize personalization and fashion‑forward versatility. Positioned at €2,500, it channels vintage charm into a contemporary, design‑driven accessory.
Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs — “The Nina” Returns
Ahead of a full 2026 relaunch, Universal Genève offers two sets of three Tribute to Compax chronographs in white and pink gold, honoring the “Nina” worn by model Nina Rindt. Each set is by request at CHF 135,000 pre‑tax and includes artisan Bund straps by Satoru Hosoi. The 36mm watches use the historic in‑house Calibre 281 and Grand Feu enamel dials in multiple colors. Faithful details like aluminum bezels underscore a respectful revival that sets the stage for UG’s in‑house future.
The Latest Time
Bamford Watches
Summer is a state of mind with Bamford
Bamford’s Mayfair 2.0 is a playful, eco‑minded rework of the 2019 Mayfair Sport, made from bioceramic recycled material and offered in Electric Blue, Viper Green, Cocktail Pink, and Neon Yellow. Interchangeable 40mm cases and a choice of rubber or fabric straps make customization easy, including a chevron strap from recycled ocean plastic. A titanium core and Swiss quartz Ronda 3540.D deliver lightweight durability, 100 meters of water resistance, and a split‑second chronograph. It strikes a balance between whimsical color and serious everyday function around the $550 mark.
Casio
Casio Just Dropped the Coolest $70 Watch You’ll See This Year
The vintage‑styled AQ‑240E blends a brushed sunray analog dial with a digital window for clear day‑date and alarm readouts. Its compact stainless steel design leans into nostalgia while staying practical and affordable at $70. A quartz movement offers around three years of battery life with no‑frills reliability. Available in silver or teal (with a gold version expected), it pairs an integrated bracelet with clean, timeless lines.
Favre Leuba
Welcome back: Favre Leuba Launches the Sea Sky Revival in a Cool Color Scheme
The Sea Sky Revival chronograph channels bold 1980s looks with a vivid green dial and black counters, nodding to heritage pieces from the 1960s. A 40mm steel case with a bidirectional ceramic bezel frames tachymeter and telemeter scales, while Super‑LumiNova in green ensures strong low‑light legibility. Inside is the self‑winding FLC01, co‑developed with La Joux‑Perret, offering a 60‑hour power reserve. Finishing details like Geneva Stripes and blued screws are visible through the sapphire back, with pricing at $4,950.
Jack Mason
One of the Best Affordable GMT Watches Just Transformed into a Travel-Ready Titanium Diver
The Strat‑o‑Timer Titanium Diver GMT updates Jack Mason’s steel favorite with a lightweight titanium case and bracelet while preserving its mid‑century tool watch roots. A 40mm elliptical case adds improved drainage and ships with an extra black FKM rubber strap; the bezel now features a 60‑minute scale. The Miyota 9075 provides a “true” GMT with independently adjustable local hour and a 42‑hour reserve, regulated to around ±5 seconds per day. Priced at $1,399, preorders start with a striking Cobalt Blue variant.
Longines
Longines’ Overpowered Dress Watch Is More Stunning Than Ever Thanks to One Surprising Change
The Master Collection Chrono Moonphase now arrives in a solid 18k rose gold case, elevating the classic tri‑compax chronograph with day, month, pointer date, and moonphase. Despite its complexity, the 42mm watch maintains a refined, dress‑ready presence on a brown alligator strap. Longines’ L687.5 automatic features a column wheel chronograph and a 66‑hour power reserve. At $26,100, it targets exceptional value among solid‑gold, full‑complication dress chronographs.
Louis Moinet
First Look: The new Louis Moinet Impulsion Titanium Green
Created for Dubai Watch Week 2025, the Impulsion Titanium Green combines a monopusher chronograph with a flying tourbillon in a sculptural Grade‑5 titanium case. Deep green accents, carbon and smoked sapphire elements, and a 42.5mm form emphasize visual impact and mechanical theater. The Concepto‑developed movement delivers a 96‑hour power reserve, while water resistance is rated to 30 meters. Limited to 12 pieces and around CHF 110,000, it’s a collector‑focused showcase of high‑end craft.
Ming
Introducing: The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey
The 37.11 Odyssey adds a GMT to Ming’s refined dive‑oriented platform, pairing a Grade 2 titanium 38mm case with 300 meters of water resistance. A smoked sapphire dial, gradient luminous hands, and thoughtful proportions keep it elegant and legible. The customized Sellita SW330.M2 offers a 50‑hour reserve, with options from FKM rubber to Grade 5 titanium Polymesh. Orders begin November 11, 2025, starting at CHF 4,950 and continuing into 2026 without a limited cap.
The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor - Read More >
Dive Across Time Zones with the New MING 37.11 Odyssey - Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
Favre Leuba
Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton
Favre Leuba’s first-ever skeleton watch draws from the 1955 Sea Chief and showcases an open-worked movement developed with Manufacture AMT. A vertically aligned architecture highlights the mainspring barrel and balance, with fine finishing for strong visual depth. Two 40 mm cushion‑case versions are offered: steel with a gold‑finished movement, or black DLC with an anthracite finish, both 100 m water resistant. Quick‑change straps and curved sapphire crystal complete a thoughtfully modernized heritage piece.
Grand Seiko
Review: The New Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch”
The SLGW007 evokes moonlit birch forests with a subtly fading navy dial and crisp white print, building on the elegant Evolution 9 profile. Powered by the 5 Hz Calibre 9SA4 with an 80‑hour reserve, it delivers precision and reliability in a refined, time‑only package. Priced at USD 10,000, it stands out among rivals like Jaeger‑LeCoultre and Chopard for movement prowess and dial finesse. For those preferring a deeper tone than the SLGW003, this is a sophisticated alternative without compromise.
Jack Mason
Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT
Two lightweight titanium Strat‑o‑Timers keep the retro GMT aesthetic while boosting comfort and everyday wearability. The 40 mm Grade 2 titanium case, polished unidirectional bezel, and luminous markers deliver clarity and presence, with black or bright blue colorways. Inside, the Miyota 9075 automatic provides a 42‑hour reserve and enhanced regulation for accuracy. At $1,399, it’s a compelling, modern take on vintage tool‑watch charm.
Vanguart
Hands-On: Time in Orbit with the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon
The Orb blends organic, ergonomic design with an in‑house openworked flying tourbillon and a unique peripheral rotor. Its 41 mm titanium case keeps the watch lightweight, while the movement runs at 3 Hz with a 60‑hour power reserve. A manual‑to‑automatic winding switch adds versatility, and an interchangeable rubber strap boosts wearability. Starting at CHF 150,000 in titanium (CHF 180,000 in gold), it’s a distinctive independent high‑horology statement.
Vario
A Watch Like Fine Wine: Hands-On with the Vario Futurist
Vario’s Futurist channels 1970s space‑age flair with a 39 mm case, faceted sapphire, and a sunburst wine‑red dial. Thoughtful details include sculpted indices and hands, a grooved crown, and a flat caseback for comfort on the Italian leather strap. The screw‑down back with astronaut engraving and 100 m water resistance match the theme and utility. Powered by the Miyota 9039 (4 Hz, ~40+ hours), it’s available in multiple colorways at $648.
Review: Looking Forward (and Back) with the Vario Futurist - Read More >
Watching Time
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 41MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (7900V/110A-B334) - was bid to $23,300 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2022 H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Tourbillon 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (8804-1200)
Auction Report: Funky Blue Gravity – 2022 H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Tourbillon 42MM (8804-1200)
The 2022 H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Tourbillon (8804-1200) is what happens when a classically styled officer’s watch sneaks out of the museum, raids the modern atelier, and comes back with a flying tourbillon beating at 21st-century speed. In steel, 42mm, with that now-instantly-recognizable Funky Blue fumé dial, it delivers Moser’s favorite party trick: old-world cues—railroad minutes, rounded case profile, wire-style lugs aesthetic—wrapped around an unapologetically contemporary engine. That engine is the in-house automatic calibre HMC 804, boasting a three-day power reserve, one-minute flying tourbillon, and Moser’s patented double hairspring architecture designed to better average out positional errors. Officially rated to 3 ATM, this is more salon than seashore, but no one is buying a Heritage Tourbillon to time their laps.
This example, represented in very good condition with box, outer box, and March 2022 papers, hits the sweet spot for serious bidders: young, fully documented, and in a configuration that collectors actually want to wear. As context, the model launched in the high CHF 40,000s–low USD 50,000s range at retail, depending on market, with later listings and authorized channels quoting around $50,000–$55,000. On the secondary market, well-presented full-set pieces have been offered in the high-$30,000s to low-$40,000s, reflecting both the niche nature of H. Moser & Cie. and strong respect for its high-complication work relative to the usual blue-chip suspects. Against that backdrop, this 2022 full-set Heritage Tourbillon should be viewed as an opportunity to secure a modern independent flying tourbillon—with genuine horological credibility, in versatile steel—for materially less than grand-complication money from the “big three.” For value-oriented collectors, a rational target band sits roughly in the $38,000–$44,000 range, with anything meaningfully below the low-40s framing this lot as a strategically attractive acquisition, provided condition and originality match the representation. With bidding scheduled to close at 7:28 pm EST on Tuesday, November 11, 2025, this is one of those moments where the market’s lingering preference for recognizable logos over real watchmaking might work in your favor.
Current bid: $15,000