BuyingTime Daily - November 10, 2025
A steel Patek Philippe 1518 smashes records at $17.6M in Geneva as the watch world buzzes from Vegas to Fossil’s revival—today’s universe keeps ticking.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Here’s your “Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe” for November 10, 2025
Today the big headline screams from Geneva: a stainless-steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 (dating to 1943 and believed to be the very first steel “1518”) hammered for CHF 12 million (approximately US$17.6 million), setting a new record for a vintage Patek wristwatch. This isn’t just about a rare watch—it’s about an epoch-defining moment in collecting. The 1518 was the world’s first serially-produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch (introduced in 1941), so a steel example—of which only four are known—was always going to dominate headlines. The frenzy of bidding (online excluded, ten minutes of phone wars) underlines how serious collectors have become about provenance, material rarity and horological significance. While the result still trails the all-time vintage wristwatch record of the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (US$17.8 million), the message is clear: steel and complication = collector gold.
Meanwhile, over at Fossil Group, creditors have approved a US$150 million debt restructuring, complete with a swap of existing bonds for longer-dated notes and an extra US$32.5 million raised. The move sidesteps administration risk and suggests the company is betting on brand-building (including a new campaign with Nick Jonas) to recover momentum despite a US$104 million operating loss in 2024. Q2 2025 showed US$220 million turnover and an US$8 million operating profit—a small green shoot in what has been a tough landscape. It’s a reminder that even in the watch world, corporate strategy and debt structure matter almost as much as dial design.
In Vegas, the Jaeger‑LeCoultre travelling exhibition “The Adventure Spirit” has landed at The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace through November 24. It’s not just another pop-up. The four-chapter museum-style show walks visitors from military watches to early 2000s sport watches, blending immersion with brand experience—and for anyone near Las Vegas it’s a neat live-event add to peruse alongside market watching.
On the educational front, an interesting feature drilled into “Why are there 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour and 24 hours in a day?” tracing the journey to today’s time-display conventions from Sumerian sexagesimal roots through Egyptian sundials to modern calendars. It’s a great reminder that every chronograph and calendar function on our wrists stands on ancient logic.
The release watch slate remains healthy: from the newly unveiled holiday-leaning slim models from Hermès (Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune in rose gold, GMT in micro-blasted titanium) to independent debuts such as Atelier Nossedh’s AN.01 series (37 mm hand-wound chronograph). Even at the under-US$1,000 tier there’s buzz: Orient expands its AC0F line with five new matte-dial color variants. The industry is clearly covering the full spectrum—from mega-auction blockbusters like the steel Patek to accessible daily-wear pieces.
So, if you ask what’s to watch today: glance back to the steel Patek 1518 sale and let it recalibrate your sense of scale. Then, shift to the players building the future of watch culture—brand strategy, live experience, fresh releases and the ever-improving access for younger collectors. The market isn’t just about heritage trophies; it’s about relevance, diversity, and the next generation stepping in.
That’s the snapshot for today. Here’s raising a glass (of iced coffee) to your next wrist glance.
News Time
Steel Patek Philippe 1518 Sells For $17.6 Million, Highest Ever For A Vintage Patek Wristwatch
A stainless-steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 achieved CHF 12 million (about $17.6 million) at Phillips in Geneva, setting a record for a vintage Patek wristwatch. Produced in 1943, this example is believed to be the first steel 1518 and one of only four known, fueling intense ten-minute phone bidding after online bids were excluded. Introduced in 1941, the 1518 was the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, and its historical significance and provenance drove demand. While a milestone, it still trails the $17.8 million Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” record from 2017.
Fossil Group creditors agree to $150m debt restructuring
Fossil Group secured approval from creditors for a $150 million debt restructuring, swapping existing bonds for longer-dated notes and raising an additional $32.5 million. The plan, backed by all but one creditor in a London meeting, averted administration and a likely worse recovery for noteholders. Despite reporting $1.15 billion in 2024 sales and a $104 million operating loss, Fossil’s Q2 2025 showed a $220 million turnover and an $8 million operating profit. The company is focusing on brand-building, including a global campaign with Nick Jonas, heading into the holiday season.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘The Adventure Spirit’ Travelling Collection is now in Las Vegas!
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “The Adventure Spirit” Travelling Collection is on view at The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas through November 24, 2025, by reservation. The four-chapter exhibition explores the brand’s history across Military Watches, Diving Watches, Bold Sports Watches of the 1970s, and High Concept Sports Watches from the early 2000s. It offers an immersive experience for both seasoned collectors and newcomers. Related community events, including a Time+Tide lounge update and special edition release, add to the engagement.
Feature Time
The ABCs of Time: Why are there 60 Seconds in a Minute, 60 Minutes in an Hour, and 24 Hours in a Day?
The 60-based structure of time traces back to the Sumerians’ sexagesimal system, later refined by the Babylonians for its divisibility and computational convenience. Egyptians advanced the concept with sundials, splitting the day into 12 hours and helping establish the 24-hour cycle. Over centuries, calendars evolved from lunar and solar systems to the Gregorian calendar for long-term accuracy. These ancient conventions underpin the way modern wristwatches display time and calendar functions.
The Japanese watch brands you need to know now
Japan’s watch scene blends tradition, artisanal craft, and modern engineering across major and independent makers. Citizen is pushing into higher-end territory with collections that showcase traditional techniques like Tosa washi, challenging legacy luxury brands. Independents such as Masahiro Kikuno, Naoya Hida & Co., Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Kurono Tokyo emphasize small-batch craftsmanship and classic design. The result is a diverse landscape that’s essential viewing for collectors seeking originality and depth.
Buying Guide: Six Of This Year’s Best Watchmaking Anniversary Celebrations
Anniversary releases showcase brands at their most thoughtful and ambitious. Highlights include Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Fifty, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, and Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025 paying homage to heritage. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 and Hublot’s Big Bang limited editions push modern chronograph and design boundaries. Each piece reframes its legacy with elevated craftsmanship and careful detail.
Windows On Time: Cartier And Louis Vuitton Spearhead A New Era Of Guichet And Jump Hour Watches
Guichet and jump hour designs are resurging with minimalist windows replacing traditional hands. Cartier’s 1928 Tank à Guichets reissue and Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Convergence fuse historical cues with contemporary refinement. Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 and Beda’a’s Eclipse explore inventive displays, while Bremont, Gerald Charles, and Chanel add distinctive interpretations. These watches emphasize design restraint and creative time display as a modern counterpoint to conventional dials.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête métiers d’art
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “La Quête” pairs high horology with métiers d’art across two thematic series. “Homage to Epic Warriors” minute repeaters depict figures like Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan via grand feu enamel on engraved gold, each requiring around 300 hours of work. “Labours of Heracles” turns the dial into a narrative map with a wandering hours display that lets the art lead. The pieces unite sculptural dials and robust mechanics to tell stories through timekeeping.
For m’lady: Six best watches for the lady in your life under SGD 10k :
This guide curates six sub-SGD 10,000 women’s watches for first-time buyers and gift-givers. Longines DolceVita and Cartier Tank deliver timeless elegance, while Omega Constellation offers iconic design and everyday versatility. Chopard Happy Sport and JLC Reverso bring playful charm and reversible ingenuity, with Bvlgari Serpenti adding sculptural glamour. The list balances classic and modern tastes, offering strong choices despite availability and pricing realities elsewhere.
In-Depth: 1.85mm... How Bulgari Created the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?
Bulgari extends its ultra-thin mastery with the 1.85mm Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Reimagined construction minimizes space while preserving function, tackling the inherent complexity of tourbillons within record-thin architecture. Each evolution in the Octo Finissimo line has tightened tolerances and refined materials to push boundaries further. The result blends technical audacity, design clarity, and modern considerations like sustainability features.
News: Man of the Hour, an 8-Episode Horology Series Premiering on Discovery Channel
“Man of the Hour” is an eight-episode docuseries hosted by Wei Koh that spotlights contemporary independent watchmaking. Season one features brands like F.P. Journe, Chopard, and De Bethune, examining their craft, innovations, and the collectors who support them. Koh emphasizes personal connections and rich storytelling to go beyond specs and into the lives of makers. The series aims to engage enthusiasts and newcomers alike, with hints of future seasons to come.
WHO WEAR WATCH: New York’s new Mayor wears man-of-the-people Casio and more
New York’s new Mayor Zohran Mamdani drew attention with a modest Casio A1000MA-7VT, aligning with a relatable, millennial sensibility. Celebrity wristwear contrasted sharply, from Taylor Swift’s $65,000 Louis Vuitton Tambour to Victoria Beckham’s diamond Patek Philippe. A$AP Rocky, Jacob Elordi, and Regé-Jean Page showcased diverse luxury picks, while athletes and icons like Saquon Barkley and Michael Jordan highlighted niche independents. The roundup underscores how watches signal identity across culture, politics, and entertainment.
The Latest Time
Atelier Nossedh
First Look: Atelier Nossedh and its Debut Vintage-Inspired Chronograph, the AN.01 Series
Atelier Nossedh debuts with the AN.01 Series, a Swiss-made, vintage-inspired bi-compax chronograph designed by Alexander Gimell. At 37mm by 10.5mm, it is notably slim for a hand-wound chronograph, with crisp brushed and polished surfaces and a classic 30-minute counter plus small seconds. It uses the Sellita SW510 M manual movement beating at 28,800 vph with a 63-hour power reserve, and pairs to French Epsom leather straps matched to dial colors. Pre-orders open November 21 through January 30, 2026 at EUR 2,200.
Farer
Farer Moonphase Collection 2025
Farer adds two limited models to its Moonphase line: the Stratton with gold PVD and a warm stone dial, and the Burbidge Eastern Arabic Edition in arctic blue with a pink moon motif. Both use hand-wound Sellita calibers and compact 38.5mm cushion cases focused on legibility and modern style. Detailing includes Lumicast numerals, strong textures, 50 meters of water resistance, and a 45-hour power reserve. The Stratton is $2,075 and the Burbidge is $1,895, limited to 100 pieces.
Hermes
Keeping Slim for the Holidays: Hermès Introduces Two New Slim d’Hermès Models
Hermès unveils two Slim d’Hermès pieces for the holidays: the Squelette Lune in 18K rose gold with a skeleton dial and double moonphase, and the GMT in microblasted titanium with a rose gold bezel. The Squelette Lune uses the ultra-thin H1953 movement, while the GMT carries the H1950, both with 48-hour power reserves. Cases are 39.5mm with elegant strap options that emphasize the collection’s refined proportions. The designs blend thin calibers and sophisticated finishing for a distinctive dress presence.
Hz Watches
Hz Watches HZ.03 Blue Marble
Inspired by Apollo 17’s “Blue Marble” photo, the HZ.03 features a 36mm titanium case and dial options including enamel and aventurine. A small seconds sub-dial with an Earth graphic anchors the concept, powered by the reliable Seiko VD78 quartz movement. With 100 meters of water resistance and quick-release straps, it emphasizes comfort and everyday wearability. Prices start at £179 for enamel and £209 for aventurine.
Longines
First Look: A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase
Longines adds an 18k rose gold Master Chronograph Moonphase with moonphase, complete calendar, and chronograph complications in a 42mm polished case. A silvery-white barleycorn dial hosts multiple sub-dials and hands, creating a complex yet balanced layout. The exclusive automatic Calibre L687.5 provides a 66-hour power reserve and refined mechanics. Priced at EUR 25,800, it comes on a brown alligator strap with a gold pin buckle.
Louis Moinet
Hands-On: Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire Watch Introduces A Retro-Fresh, Functional Look
The 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire combines a retro-modern aesthetic with a chronometer-certified LM1806 automatic movement tested at the Geneva Astronomical Observatory. Its grade 5 titanium case and bracelet measure 40.6mm wide, over 15mm thick, with 50 meters of water resistance. A clean dial adds a distinctive synthetic ruby pivot detail for visual pop and functional character. Retail is 18,900 CHF, positioning it in the integrated bracelet category with a distinctive design language.
Orient
Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe
Orient extends its AC0F line with five matte dial colors exclusive to Europe: green, blue, red, ivory, and brown. The 41.6mm stainless steel models feature trapezoid markers, alpha hands, and tasteful color-contrast accents for a contemporary twist on a classic look. Powered by the in-house F6722 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance, they emphasize daily versatility. Pricing is €299.99 or £259.99.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Atelier Wen
Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection
Atelier Wen’s Inflection debuts in 99.9% pure tantalum with a 40mm by 45mm case that wears slim and comfortable, and is water resistant to 100 meters. Three Grand Feu enamel dials in green, obsidian-black, and midnight-blue showcase meticulous craftsmanship and depth. A customized Girard-Perregaux movement delivers refined finishing and strong accuracy. Sales are intentionally personal, with production targeting only 100 pieces in year one, priced at $19,800 on strap or $29,800 on bracelet.
Breguet
Hands-On: Breguet’s New Classique 7225 Features Some Of The Industry’s Most Impressive Watchmaking
The Classique 7225 pairs elegant gold-case aesthetics and rich guilloché with a cutting-edge 10Hz movement for exceptional precision. Silicon components reduce friction and enhance durability, while details like the observation seconds hand and power reserve reflect thoughtful functionality. Its dial language nods to early Breguet pocket watches without feeling nostalgic. At $99,000 and not limited, it embodies heritage-driven innovation for serious collectors.
Citizen
Hands-On: Limited-Edition Citizen Zenshin Fantastic Four — A Character Watch With Character?
Citizen fuses Marvel’s Fantastic Four with a clean, modern design in a 39mm Super Titanium case and a powder blue dial featuring character-inspired indices. Eco-Drive and the J800 quartz movement deliver dependable performance, eight months of power reserve, and ±15 seconds per month accuracy. The watch balances playful thematics with everyday practicality. Limited to 1,100 pieces, it retails for $625 through authorized dealers.
Glashütte Original
Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
This Seventies Chronograph blends retro charm with modern utility in purple (Plasma) and lime green (Fusion) limited editions. The 40mm steel case houses a flyback chronograph, power reserve display, and the signature panorama date. Inside is the automatic 37-02 caliber with 70 hours of reserve and 10 bar water resistance. Priced at €15,900 on rubber or €17,100 on bracelet, each color is limited to 100 pieces.
Hermes
Hands-On With The Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu And The Arceau Rocabar De Rire
The Hermès Cut expands to a 39mm rose gold version with the playful le temps suspendu function that pauses the hands, alongside the more accessible 36mm steel model. Its pebble-like comfort and refined execution underscore Hermès’ design-first philosophy. The Arceau Rocabar de Rire, limited to 12, contrasts with exuberant artistic craftsmanship and a whimsical animated motif. Prices span from €5,900 (steel Cut) to €163,000 (Arceau), celebrating both restraint and creativity.
Omega
Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner: After Our Testing, Who Wins?
The Seamaster emphasizes individuality and modern tech with a textured dial and METAS-certified movement, making it easy to wear from water to dinner. The Submariner remains the archetype of refined dive-watch engineering, yet availability and premiums shift it toward status symbolism. For everyday enjoyment, the Seamaster’s balance of innovation, character, and accessibility stands out. The comparison reframes collecting around wearability rather than waiting lists.
Zenith
Why I’m still smitten with the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135
This tribute to Georges Favre-Jacot refreshes an award-winning lineage with a platinum case, 72-hour reserve, and an artistically guillochéed movement. The lapis and blue-dyed mother-of-pearl dial exudes formal elegance with a bold twist. Limited to 160 pieces, it balances heritage with technical refinement and modern presentation. Starting at £44,900, it’s a compelling 2025 standout for collectors who value history and craft.
Watching Time
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Who Makes the Best Watch? The Politics Behind Your Favourite Watch
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: An Offer You Can’t Refuse
Episode 19 of the SJX Podcast discusses Francis Ford Coppola selling his F.P. Journe FFC prototype and highlights the legacy of F.P. Journe ahead of his museum opening, featuring the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, acquired for CHF5.51 million. Listeners can tune in on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Listen Now>
Scottish Watches Podcast #725 : Bringing Italian Flair To The Watch Industry With D1 Milano
The podcast features Dario Spallone, founder of D1 Milano, discussing the brand’s blend of Italian design and contemporary pop-art. Key topics include the brand’s innovative use of materials, the origins of D1 Milano, and their collaborations, including upcoming projects. The conversation highlights how the brand has established a unique identity in the fashion watch industry. Listen Now>
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41MM Black Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (15400OR.OO.1220OR.01) - was bid to $45,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 41MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (7900V/110A-B334)
Auction Report: The Overseas Dual Time Blue-Chip Traveler
The 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 41MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (7900V/110A-B334) lands in that sweet spot where modern steel sports hype intersects with real horology. Introduced at Dubai Watch Week in 2017 as part of the third-generation Overseas lineup, this reference distilled Vacheron’s travel watch concept into a cleaner, more intuitive package: a 41mm stainless steel case at 12.8mm thick, 150m water resistance, that signature Maltese cross bezel, and the integrated bracelet that instantly signals “I know what I’m doing” to anyone within three tables at the hotel bar. Powered by the in-house automatic caliber 5110 DT (a dual time evolution of the 5100), it delivers local time via an independently jumping hour hand, home time with AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock, pointer date at 6 synchronized to local time, and central seconds, all visible through a sapphire caseback with the 22k gold rotor shaped like a wind rose—a literal mechanical postcard to the spirit of travel.
The blue lacquered/sunburst dial is the money shot: rich, saturated and endlessly photogenic, moving from deep navy to electric blue depending on the light. Paired with luminous markers and hands and framed by that faceted bezel, it’s one of the most recognizable modern sports-watch signatures in the game. As with the rest of the modern Overseas line, this reference was originally delivered with Vacheron’s quick-change system and a full strap kit (steel bracelet plus rubber and leather straps), a detail that matters both for daily wear and at auction—versatility is part of the value proposition, and bidders know it.
On the numbers, this piece remains a firmly established blue-chip. Original retail for the steel Dual Time in this configuration was in the mid-to-high $20Ks (around CHF/SFr 27,510 / roughly high-$20K USD at launch), with later list pricing commonly referenced around $30,900 as pricing adjusted. As of November 2025, recent market data for the 7900V/110A-B334 in very good condition with box and papers typically clusters in the high-$20Ks to low-$30Ks: dealer and marketplace listings frequently range roughly from about $27,000 on the low side to above $33,000 for strong examples, with some optimistic asks stretching higher for pristine sets. Against that backdrop, a 2020 example represented as very good, complete with boxes, papers and extras, sits right in the “serious but sensible” collector lane—this is not speculative crypto-art, it’s a liquid, globally recognized reference from one of the “holy trinity” that buyers actually understand.
For bidders ahead of the 7:20 pm close on November 10, 2025, the playbook is straightforward. Confirm the condition (sharp bezel teeth, crisp case lines, honest brushing, clean dial and hands, bracelet stretch minimal, movement running to spec), verify the 2020 papers, and check whether the original strap kit is included; each missing element is a quantifiable haircut. If everything checks out, a hammer outcome in the roughly $28,000 to $31,000 zone would represent fair to attractive territory relative to current asking levels, with anything meaningfully under the high-$20Ks qualifying as an opportunistic buy for a long-term holder. Push too far into the mid-$30Ks and you’re paying tomorrow’s price today, but given the strength of the Overseas platform and the enduring appeal of this blue Dual Time variant, a disciplined premium for a clean 2020 full set is not irrational. This is a serious travel watch for buyers who want Vacheron’s pedigree, true functionality, and modern desirability in one reference—and for this lot, that combination should draw real, informed money.
Current bid: $21,800