BuyingTime Daily - May 22, 2026
Pre-owned watch rally stalls, Norqain and Orient grow, new releases flood in, and the Patek Cubitus tests the auction market.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for Friday, May 22, 2026 feels a bit like the watch market staring at itself in the mirror after a very energetic winter and realizing maybe things got carried away again. The secondary-market rally that helped lift pre-owned pricing for the past six months appears to be losing momentum, with April slipping slightly month-over-month and the annualized gains suddenly looking less impressive once compared against plain old cash sitting in a bank account. Rolex flattened, Patek Philippe and Cartier cooled, and brands like Breitling remain under pressure, while TAG Heuer and Omega managed to keep moving upward. In other words, the luxury-watch market is starting to look selective again rather than universally euphoric, which probably explains why reserve prices are increasingly becoming emotional-support devices for sellers.
Meanwhile, smaller and more disciplined brands are showing how growth can still happen without flooding the market. Norqain continues its expansion strategy through carefully managed retail partnerships in the U.K. and U.S., leaning heavily on dealer relationships and controlled allocations instead of endless hype drops. Orient is also quietly having a very strong run in Britain, doubling sales year-over-year and betting that affordable Japanese mechanical watches still have plenty of runway. Elsewhere, Belfast-based Nomadic Watches landed a notable visibility win by becoming the first official timing partner of the United Rugby Championship, proving once again that sports partnerships remain one of the fastest ways for independent brands to gain credibility outside enthusiast circles.
Feature coverage today leaned heavily into watch culture psychology. Fratello’s discussion about whether collectors should wear vintage watches or preserve them as safe queens turned into a surprisingly philosophical conversation about fear, ownership and authenticity. Another feature suggested the chaotic launch of the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop may actually revive interest in pocket watches, which sounds ridiculous until you realize watch collecting has become an industry where almost anything can become fashionable again if social media decides it should. Panerai, meanwhile, doubled down on its core identity with an expanded Luminor collection led by the massive 31 Giorni PAM01631, featuring a 31-day power reserve and enough military nostalgia to make old Italian naval officers emotional.
New releases today covered nearly every corner of the hobby. Arken introduced the titanium Alterum Sage Grey travel watch with dual-time functionality and a compact 38mm case. Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Yoon and Verbal” edition, shrinking the normally gigantic Concept line into a more wearable 38.5mm format while still looking aggressively futuristic. Citizen launched the regatta-focused Promaster Wave Tracker, loaded with tide, moon-phase and sailing functions, while Jaeger-LeCoultre delivered perhaps the most elegant release of the day with gem-set Reverso “Or Deco Cocktail” models dripping in baguette-cut stones. Longines revived the watch that arguably started its modern heritage renaissance with the new Legend Diver 59, and Omega rolled out the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph “007 First Light,” a gaming-inspired Bond-adjacent release that somehow manages to feel both modern and very familiar at the same time.
Other standouts included the compact and dressy March LA.B AM2 XS, the wonderfully strange oil-filled Ressence Type 7 updates, and the ruggedly compact Serica Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer, which makes a strong argument that real tool watches do not need to resemble frying pans strapped to wrists. On the review side, A. Lange & Söhne refined the Saxonia Annual Calendar into a more compact and wearable package, while Seiko continued proving it understands affordable enthusiast watches better than almost anyone with the new Presage “Silver Bullet” GMT. Panerai also reminded everyone that there is apparently no upper limit to experiential luxury pricing with the $99,500 Navy SEALs Submersible “Experience” watch, which comes bundled with tactical training and enough masculinity signaling to require its own Pelican case.
Comparison coverage focused on practical collecting, with field and GADA watches under €1,000 showing just how competitive the entry-to-mid-level enthusiast market has become. The Seiko Samurai versus Turtle comparison reinforced that the Turtle remains one of the hobby’s most lovable daily divers, while the Samurai continues appealing to people who want their wristwatch to look like it might also transform into a robot.
The video lineup was especially entertaining today. “The Most Overhyped Watches EVER!” took predictable but still amusing shots at the Rolex Daytona, Nautilus mania and integrated-bracelet fever dreams. Another video argued Audemars Piguet is outperforming Rolex because exclusivity and finishing now matter more than sheer brand ubiquity, while “Rolex Isn’t Fighting Superclones — It’s Surrendering” explored how authentication and provenance are becoming more important than traditional anti-counterfeit strategies. Fratello’s vintage-wear debate appeared again in video form, and one particularly spicy clip warned viewers to avoid the “Royal Flop” hysteria altogether. Over in podcast land, Scottish Watches delivered “The Royal Plop,” which may be the most accurate description yet of the post-launch aftermath surrounding the AP × Swatch collaboration circus.
At auction, Thursday’s Rolex Day-Date 40 in white gold with olive-green Roman dial stalled at $37,500 without meeting reserve, another subtle reminder that the market is becoming less forgiving toward ambitious seller expectations. The spotlight now shifts to the unworn 2024 Patek Philippe Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date Platinum Ref. 5822P-001, currently sitting at just $750 ahead of its Saturday evening close. Of course, nobody expects it to stay there. The larger question hanging over the Cubitus remains whether collectors are witnessing the birth of a future icon or simply participating in one of the more fascinating luxury-brand social experiments of the modern era.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Pre-owned watch price rally runs out of steam
A six-month upswing in luxury pre-owned watch prices peaked in April, with the market up 3.2% year-over-year and 4.9% over the last six months. That momentum faded as April posted a 0.4% month-on-month decline, dropping the annualised increase to 2.1% and implying cash would have outperformed flipping second-hand watches in the same window. Performance diverged by brand: Patek Philippe and Cartier both fell in April after prior gains, while Rolex flattened. TAG Heuer and Omega were the only major names mentioned as rising in April, with others like Breitling still trading at meaningful discounts amid a softer market.
Traditional retail partnerships are turbo-charging Norqain growth
Norqain’s expansion is being fueled by a deliberate strategy of working closely with multibrand retail partners to grow distribution without flooding the market. In the UK, a local team secured placements with major jewelers and independents, plus access to large e-commerce platforms via Watches of Switzerland Group. A similar approach in the US added a mix of big chains and independents to broaden reach while keeping the footprint controlled. The brand backs this with retailer education, co-op support, and tailored marketing/allocations—using popular releases like the Freedom Ice Cream chronograph line to keep demand strong.
Orient doubles UK sales as retail expansion gathers pace
Orient doubled UK sales year-on-year in FY25, driven by rapid expansion into larger retail chains, online channels, and new partnerships. Since its 2023 market entry, the brand has leaned on local relationships and broader European distribution momentum, supported by a longer-term trend of steady revenue growth. For 2026, Orient is projecting another 50–75% UK increase and plans to introduce 75th-anniversary limited editions alongside a new GMT line. The brand also intends to push into Southern Ireland, aiming to capture rising demand for accessible Japanese mechanical watches.
Nomadic Watches named first official timing partner of United Rugby Championship
Nomadic Watches, an independent brand based in Belfast, has been named the United Rugby Championship’s first official timing partner. The partnership will activate during the URC Play-Offs and includes plans for custom watch designs inspired by the league’s 16 clubs, alongside fan-facing initiatives around the final stages and Grand Final. Both sides frame the relationship around shared themes like precision, resilience, and performance—connecting mechanical watchmaking with elite sport. Strategically, it’s positioned as a way to elevate the championship’s profile while giving Nomadic a high-visibility platform across the URC’s multi-country footprint.
Feature Time
Fratello Talks: Vintage Watches — Wear It Or Spare It?
This episode digs into a classic collector dilemma: should vintage watches be worn often or preserved in near-mint condition. The Fratello team compares their own habits, ranging from regularly wearing 1950s pieces to keeping an early-’80s watch untouched, and a middle-ground approach that depends on the specific watch. The discussion surfaces practical considerations like durability and water resistance, alongside the emotional pull of letting a vintage watch pick up honest wear. It ultimately frames the choice as personal—guided by condition, confidence in the watch, and how much someone values experiencing its history on-wrist.
In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches
The article argues that high-profile collaborations like the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop could nudge collectors toward renewed interest in pocket watches, even if the market isn’t fully ready for a true comeback. It points out a noticeable gap in the mid-range, with options tending to cluster at entry-level price points or jump quickly into ultra-luxury territory. To make the category more approachable, it curates four modern picks across budgets, from an affordable Mondaine to a more classic Tissot Savonette in both mechanical and quartz forms. The list then leaps to extremes with examples from Patek Philippe and a limited Omega Olympic piece, underscoring how wide the price spectrum is.
Panerai Plays the Long Game with the Luminor
Panerai’s 2026 Luminor lineup leans hard into the brand’s military roots while showcasing modern hand-wound engineering, led by the standout Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631. That centerpiece introduces a new movement with four barrels and an attention-grabbing 31-day power reserve, housed in a 44mm Goldtech case and produced in a limited run. The broader collection riffs on historic references with variations in case size, dial color, and movement, often pairing vintage-style cues like sandwich dials and the signature crown guard with contemporary finishing. Across the range—spanning three-day, eight-day, and the new 31-day configurations—the message is consistency: the Luminor remains the platform Panerai uses to blend recognizable design with incremental technical progress.
The Latest Time
Arken
The Arken Alterum Sage Grey
Arken’s Alterum Sage Grey is a compact 38mm dual-time travel watch with a grade-2 titanium case, a sage-grey dial, and a quick-release sailcloth strap. Inside is a modified Miyota 9015 with a proprietary module that adds a second time zone plus day/night indication, while still keeping a sporty 200m water-resistance rating. The release is structured in two steps: a limited in-stock drop followed by an unlimited pre-order with later delivery. Pricing is listed at about $850(from £630 converted to USD).
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet Launch Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon Yoon and Verbal Edition
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Yoon and Verbal” edition is a 150-piece collaboration with AMBUSH, built around a notably smaller 38.5mm titanium case for the Concept line. The watch pairs a partially openworked black aventurine dial with a vivid red-anodized flying tourbillon cage and contrasting colored hands for maximum visual impact. Power comes from the hand-wound caliber 2982 with a 72-hour reserve, and the set includes interchangeable black and red rubber straps with a micro-mosaic pattern. Pricing is noted as available on request.
Citizen
Citizen Promaster Wave Tracker
Citizen’s Promaster Wave Tracker is designed specifically for sailing and yacht racing, using an analog-digital layout with a high-definition MIP display driven by Cal. U812. It packs regatta-focused tools—countdown-to-stopwatch race timing, a tide graph, moon-phase information, and sunrise/sunset data for a wide set of locations—aimed at real on-water use. A rotating bezel functions like a slide rule for direction/angle calculations, tying the digital utility back to traditional instrument-watch ergonomics. Pricing is listed between about $825–$920 (from SGD 1,057.30–1,177.20converted to USD).
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’
Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a high-jewelry twist to the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with three gem-set versions that frame the dial in baguette-cut stones. Rubies dress the pink-gold model, while emeralds or blue sapphires elevate the white-gold versions, and each remains true to the Reverso idea by keeping a clean, undecorated reverse side. The 18k cases are paired with matching gold Milanese mesh bracelets and powered by the hand-wound Cal. 822 with a 42-hour power reserve. Each variant is limited to 30 pieces, and pricing is available on request.
Longines
Longines Just Brought Back the Dive Watch That Started Its Vintage Revival
Longines revives its Legend Diver heritage with the Legend Diver 59, a modern interpretation that keeps the vintage-forward look while upgrading the mechanics and specs. The watch preserves the signature internal-bezel diver aesthetic and leans into aged-lume styling, but adds a modern L888.6 movement with a long 72-hour reserve, silicon balance spring, and chronometer certification, plus 300m water resistance. It’s positioned as a more collector-leaning offering above the brand’s HydroConquest line, especially for those who want the larger-case Legend Diver format and period-correct vibe. Price is $4,100.
March LA.B
March LA.B Goes Dressy and Compact with the AM2 XS
March LA.B’s AM2 XS is a dress-leaning, compact 32mm watch built around a very slim 6.7mm steel case and a manual-wind La Joux-Perret D101 movement. The design focuses on polish and texture—an angular octagonal case, a 4 o’clock crown, and a houndstooth-style dial motif—while skipping sport cues like lume and a date window to keep things clean. Despite the refined intent, it still offers 50m water resistance and a 50-hour power reserve, making it more wearable than many traditional dress watches. Pricing runs about $2,315–$3,245 (from €1,995–€2,795 converted to USD), depending on strap choice.
Omega
The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light
Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph “007 First Light” ties directly to the 007 First Light video game, bringing an in-line chronograph into the 300M family with a 44mm steel case and full 300m water resistance. The black ceramic dial is accented by a bronze-gold tone around the sub-dials and branded caseback artwork, while the movement is Omega’s Master Chronometer caliber 9900 with a 60-hour reserve and column-wheel chronograph architecture. Although it’s delivered in special packaging, it’s positioned as a non-limited release, with extra NATO strap options that mirror the game’s strap palette. Price is about $9,300 (from CHF 7,300 converted to USD).
Ressence
The Ressence Type 7 Black and Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps
Ressence expands the Type 7 with Black and Cactus versions that keep the brand’s signature oil-filled, ultra-legible display and integrated bracelet format, now complemented by matching rubber strap options. The orbital display layout shows hours plus GMT and additional indicators (including an oil temperature readout), driven by a modified ETA base movement paired with the ROCS 7 module and a crownless, caseback-based winding/setting system. With a 41mm grade 5 titanium case and 50m water resistance, it’s positioned as an avant-garde daily wearer rather than a fragile concept piece. Price is about $45,700 (from CHF 36,000 converted to USD, before taxes).
Serica
First Look: The new Serica Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer, 35mm of True Ruggedness
Serica’s Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer argues that true ruggedness doesn’t require big dimensions, delivering a compact 35mm case with serious 200m water resistance and a slim profile. It runs on the Soprod M100 automatic movement with COSC chronometer certification, a 4 Hz beat rate, and a 42-hour power reserve, paired with three dial executions ranging from military “minute-critical” layouts to a tuxedo-style two-tone option. A redesigned Bonklip bracelet with upgraded end-links and a safety-focused clasp rounds out the tool-meets-vintage package. Pricing is about $1,265 for the minute-critical dial (from €1,090) and about $1,380 for the tuxedo dial (from €1,190), converted to USD.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Watches Get An Update
A. Lange & Söhne updates the Saxonia Annual Calendar with a more compact 36mm case and a slimmer 9.8mm profile, while keeping signature elements like the outsized date and balanced calendar layout. Dial refinements (cleaner minute track, richer moonphase, and more dimensional subdials) make the design feel more spacious and contemporary without losing the formal Saxonia character. Inside, the new L207.1 caliber boosts usability with a single-push correction that advances the full annual calendar, along with a longer 60-hour power reserve and upgraded rotor architecture. Price is about $75,465 USD (from €65,000).
Bausele
Bausele Elemental Coorong Mist Review
The Bausele Elemental Coorong Mist is a limited-edition, community-designed sports watch that blends a rugged spec sheet with a distinctly textured, sand-inspired dial. It pairs ~40mm steel construction and 200m water resistance with a Sellita SW200 automatic movement, plus extra protection via a rubber-lined cage and magnetic shielding. Practicality is reinforced by a dual-scale bezel (count-up plus 12-hour/GMT scale) and a tool-less micro-adjustment clasp aimed at real daily wear comfort. Price is $750 USD.
FVF Genève
Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”
FVF Genève’s FVF1 “Seven Poets” takes the brand’s tourbillon platform and turns the day display into an artistic statement, using a roller engraved with seven poets’ names that advances daily. The watch keeps the core technical package intact—titanium case, hand-wound movement, 100-hour power reserve, and a 60-second tourbillon—while adding an interactive, narrative-driven complication you can manually advance. Finishing details (brushed and beveled titanium, gold-plated accents, and durability-focused lug treatment) emphasize that it’s not just conceptual, but carefully executed. Price is not listed in the database entry.
Panerai
Panerai Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech: $100,000 Experience Watch Offers Protection From Water, Radiation, Emasculinity
Panerai’s Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech “Experience” edition is built around a rare hafnium case in an oversized 47mm format, paired with the brand’s in-house automatic GMT movement and a 72-hour power reserve. It leans into extreme tool-watch territory with 1,000m water resistance and a substantial rubber strap to balance the weight and size. The main selling point extends beyond specs: buyers are invited to a curated training experience with former Navy SEALs, positioning the watch as a lifestyle package as much as a timepiece. Price is $99,500 USD.
Seiko
A Closer Look at Seiko’s New Presage “Silver Bullet” GMT for the Cocktail Time Collection
Seiko’s Presage “Silver Bullet” GMT adds travel functionality to the Cocktail Time formula, pairing the collection’s signature patterned dial work with a more subdued, versatile silver tone. The GMT is integrated via a 24-hour scale and a playful cocktail-inspired GMT hand, while the automatic 4R34 movement keeps things accessible with a roughly 41-hour reserve. With a polished 40.5mm case and manageable thickness, it’s positioned to work for both dressier and casual settings without pushing into luxury pricing. Price is $625 USD.
Comparing Time
What Are 10 Of The Best Field And GADA Watches Under €1,000?
This roundup surveys ten field and “go-anywhere-do-anything” watches that aim to balance durability, versatility, and style while staying under the €1,000 mark. It spans both modern, spec-forward options and well-known value staples, comparing practical details like case size, movement type, power reserve, crystal material, and water resistance. The common thread is everyday usability—watches that can handle casual wear, outdoor time, and more polished settings without feeling out of place. The takeaway is that a genuinely capable field/GADA watch doesn’t require luxury pricing, as long as you prioritize the features that match how you’ll actually wear it.
Seiko Samurai vs. Seiko Turtle: Hands-On Affordable Dive Watch Comparison
This hands-on comparison breaks down the Seiko Samurai and Seiko Turtle across design, comfort, construction, movement, crystal, water resistance, lume, and overall value. The Samurai is framed as the sharper, more aggressive option with angular casework and a bolder presence, while the Turtle leans into a softer, classic dive-watch profile that tends to wear easier day to day. Both deliver dependable Seiko automatic movements, Hardlex crystals, 200m water resistance, and strong lume performance. Pricing places the Samurai broadly in the $300–$700 range versus the Turtle around $370–$475, with the Turtle ultimately positioned as the more comfortable long-term daily wearer, while the Samurai caters to those who want a more distinctive look.
Watching Time - Videos
The Most Overhyped Watches EVER! - YouTube
Andrew and James (A Podcast About Watches) debate which watches are “most overhyped,” arguing that market heat often exceeds what the watches deliver in real life. They call out staples like the Rolex GMT‑Master II “Pepsi,” the Rolex Daytona, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, while also touching on the broader integrated-sports-watch craze. They disagree a bit on the Aquanaut, bring up the FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu as an example of pricing running far ahead of value, and argue over whether the Universal Genève Polerouter is actually underrated. They wrap by pointing to the Omega Speedmaster’s mythology/marketing—and hype-adjacent offshoots like the MoonSwatch—as another overhyped phenomenon.
Subdial x Blancpain - The Villeret | Drop #278 - YouTube - Subdial
Subdial and Blancpain unveil the Villeret “Drop #278,” highlighting the collaboration’s positioning in the luxury market. The video walks through the watch’s design details, finishing, and overall value proposition, with commentary on how the partnership elevates brand prestige and collector appeal.
What do REGULAR PEOPLE know about WATCHES? - YouTube - Watch RNG
This video reacts to street-interview watch trivia filmed in South Carolina, using quick Q&A clips to show what non-enthusiasts actually recognize. It highlights which brands and terms (Rolex, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Invicta, etc.) land with passersby and which ones miss completely. The core theme is the gap between enthusiast assumptions and mainstream awareness. The reactions focus on what the answers reveal about brand visibility outside the watch bubble.
Why AP Is Selling Better Than Rolex - YouTube - Big Moe Watches
Mo argues that Audemars Piguet feels “a step above” Rolex because of perceived finishing, open casebacks, complications, and a sense of constant innovation. He shares client anecdotes of people trading multiple Rolex watches for a single AP because Rolex feels more common while AP reads as rarer and more status-signaling. He also credits AP’s marketing and collaborations for amplifying demand and keeping attention high. The video ends by framing it as a trade-off question—whether viewers would swap Rolex holdings for AP.
Fratello Talks: Vintage Watches, Wear it or Spare it! - YouTube - Fratello
This episode digs into whether vintage (and neo-vintage) watches should be worn regularly or kept safe, with the main argument being that wearing them can be rewarding but requires more caution. The speakers emphasize risks around water resistance and aging gaskets, suggesting pressure testing before swimming or travel and being mindful of shocks and daily hazards. They also highlight servicing and parts availability as a deciding factor—Rolex and Omega tend to be easier, while some older Seiko references and certain high-end pieces can be harder and costlier to maintain. A recurring point is that already-worn examples feel less stressful to wear than pristine ones, and that modern water resistance is a major reason to buy new for worry-free daily use.
Rolex Isn’t Fighting Superclones — It’s Surrendering - YouTube - The Watch Business
The video argues Rolex isn’t trying to “win” the superclone battle with stronger consumer-facing anti-counterfeit tech, but is instead shifting toward authenticating buyers and provenance through controlled channels. It frames Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program, the acquisition of Bucherer, and tighter allocation/VIP dynamics as parts of one strategy: keep verification inside an authorized ecosystem and maintain an “unbroken chain of custody.” Rather than offering public tools (like open serial lookup or app-based verification), Rolex allegedly makes “verified” effectively synonymous with buying within its network. The conclusion is that the brand is prioritizing distribution control over solving gray-market authentication for everyone.
🤮 Don’t Buy The Royal Flop… Buy THESE Instead! —] Pull The Crown - YouTube - Pull The Crown
The video warns viewers about the dangers of purchasing the “Royal Flop,” highlighting how the product can lead to disappointment and wasted money. It explains the common pitfalls associated with the flop and encourages the audience to consider alternative options that provide better value and satisfaction. By presenting a clear analysis of why the “Royal Flop” is a poor choice, the content guides viewers toward more informed buying decisions, suggesting specific alternatives that are more reliable and cost‑effective. This approach helps the audience avoid common mistakes and make smarter purchases.
Rolex Raises Prices & Swatch x AP Royal Pop | Dual Time Podcast #1 - YouTube - Roman Sharf
The episode delves into the recent price increase announced by Rolex (mostly the January 1, 2026 increase), exploring the factors behind the brand’s decision to raise its watch prices and the impact on the luxury watch market. It also examines the collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet, highlighting the design and inspiration behind the Royal Pop collection and what the partnership means for both companies and enthusiasts. Viewers gain insight into how these developments reflect broader trends in the watch industry, including shifting consumer preferences, brand positioning, and the balance between heritage and innovation. The conversation provides context for collectors and casual fans alike, offering a nuanced perspective on pricing strategies and collaborative projects shaping the future of horology.
How He Went From Tudor to Vacheron at 23 Years Old - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
This video follows a 23-year-old collector named Abraham, whose collection blends modern enthusiast favorites with meaningful family-inherited vintage pieces. He describes how receiving his grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin and Piaget watches pushed him to learn watch history and think more deeply about the emotional value of heirlooms. The conversation also covers why Rolex is often a “gateway” brand for younger collectors and why GMT watches are especially practical for everyday/travel use. The overall theme is how collecting can evolve from chasing milestones into building taste and honoring personal legacy.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #781 : The Royal Plop - The AP Aftermath Plus New Watches from Moser, Breitling, Meistersinger and More - Scottish Watches
This episode recaps the chaotic rollout of the Swatch × Audemars Piguet Royal Pop, focusing on the long lines, crowd frenzy, and reseller-driven aftermath. It then pivots to new-release talk, including Moser’s lime-green Streamliner Boutique Edition spotted at a Bucherer event in London, plus highlights like a Meistersinger jumping-hour Guilloché piece, Perrelet’s casino/roulette-themed Turbine Casino, and the latest Breitling Chronomat updates. The hosts also pause to pay tribute to Jean‑Marie Schaller, crediting him with reviving Louis Moinet and leaving a meaningful mark on independent watchmaking. The episode points listeners to show notes for extra photos and links and invites feedback through the podcast’s contact channels.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2024 Rolex Day-Date 40 White Gold / Fluted / Olive-Green / Roman / President (228239-0033) - was bid to $37,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Patek Philippe Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date Platinum / BlueX (5822P-001)
Auction Report: The Cubitus Grows Up Fast: Patek Philippe’s Platinum 5822P Hits the Auction Block
The 2024 Patek Philippe Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases Ref. 5822P-001 is not merely another new Patek. It is the serious one in the Cubitus family — the platinum, complicated, headline-grabbing version of Patek Philippe’s first new collection in roughly a quarter century. When the Cubitus arrived in 2024, it immediately divided collectors, which of course meant everyone was talking about it. The square case, Nautilus-adjacent personality and very Patek confidence made it impossible to ignore.
This example is being offered in unworn condition with box and papers, which is exactly how collectors prefer to see a modern complicated Patek appear at auction. The watch has a 45 mm platinum case, a blue dial, and the automatic caliber 240 PS CI J LU, an ultra-thin self-winding movement with a 22k gold micro-rotor. The complication package is the point here: instantaneous grand date, day display, moon phase and small seconds, all arranged in a watch that is more architectural than delicate. At 45 mm, this is not hiding under the cuff and pretending to be vintage Calatrava poetry. It is Patek Philippe making a big, square, platinum statement.
The retail price is about $97,525, but the market has treated the 5822P as one of the more desirable Cubitus references. Recent secondary-market indications have placed examples well above retail, commonly in the mid-six-figure neighborhood, with asking prices often around $135,000 to $165,000 depending on condition, completeness and seller ambition. That does not mean every auction result will land there, especially in today’s softer and more selective secondary market, but it does show that the 5822P remains one of the Cubitus models with real premium support.
Historically, the significance of this watch is easy to understand. Patek almost never launches a completely new collection, and when it does, collectors argue first and buy later. The Cubitus was criticized, memed, defended and chased almost immediately, which is generally how modern icons are manufactured now, whether anyone wants to admit it or not. The 5822P also carries the advantage of being the complicated platinum launch model, not the simpler steel or two-tone reference. That gives it a stronger long-term collector story.
This particular watch is described as unworn, with excellent dial, hands, crystal, case, bezel and bracelet condition. It comes from the United States and includes the box and papers. For a buyer who wants the flagship Cubitus without waiting through authorized-dealer theater, this is the clean setup.
The auction ends at 9:35 p.m. EDT on Saturday, May 23, 2026. The question is not whether the Cubitus matters. It already does, if only because Patek made sure it would. The better question is whether bidders believe the 5822P is still early in its collector arc or whether today’s premium already prices in too much of tomorrow’s legend.
Current bid: $750