BuyingTime Daily - May 19, 2026
Royal Pop resale prices cool after launch riots, while Citizen tops CHF 1B in watch sales. Plus new releases from IWC, Longines, Seiko and more.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world spent yesterday doing what it increasingly does best in 2026: sprinting from hype cycle to hype cycle while pretending everyone is calmly “collecting.” The biggest story remains the ongoing fallout from the Swatch × Audemars Piguet Royal Pop launch, where secondary prices finally showed signs of gravity returning to earth. After the initial frenzy pushed prices to nearly four times retail, resale values slipped roughly 6–7% in a day as the market started behaving slightly less like a crypto meme coin. That still leaves the collection trading at massive premiums, which means the Royal Pop remains less “accessible luxury” and more “mall riot with a warranty card.” Meanwhile, sales resumed at select boutiques after global shutdowns caused by overcrowding, police intervention, and general MoonSwatch-style chaos. Apparently, the modern luxury consumer still enjoys a good line-induced adrenaline rush.
Elsewhere, Citizen quietly reminded everyone that the giant Japanese watch groups still print money while the internet obsesses over speculative plastic collaborations. The company officially crossed the CHF 1 billion mark in watch sales after posting a 10% jump in turnover, helped by strong demand across Japan, Europe, and North America as well as the continued momentum surrounding Bulova’s 150th anniversary campaign. While the industry’s social media oxygen often gets consumed by steel sports watches and celebrity ambassadors playing padel, the reality remains that companies like Citizen move enormous global volume through broad product accessibility and relentless execution.
Speaking of padel, the sport continues its rapid evolution into watchmaking’s newest preferred networking playground. Audemars Piguet officially stepped deeper into the scene through its partnership with the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour and world number one Agustín Tapia, joining a growing list of luxury brands attempting to colonize the affluent social-sport universe. Golf still has the history, tennis still has Wimbledon, but padel increasingly has the energy—and apparently the rich people with integrated bracelet watches.
Hollywood also got involved this week thanks to Hamilton, which leaned heavily into its cinematic heritage for the upcoming alien-conspiracy thriller Disclosure Day. The brand’s Khaki Field Mechanical and Jazzmaster Open Heart models become extensions of the characters themselves, continuing Hamilton’s decades-long relationship with film prop departments that probably deserve honorary marketing awards at this point. On the accessories front, Delugs introduced a surprisingly practical micro-adjust CTS deployant clasp that allows quick sizing changes without removing the watch, proving once again that tiny comfort improvements can trigger enormous enthusiasm among people willing to debate clasp tolerances online for six consecutive hours.
New releases kept the pipeline fully saturated. Atelier Wen refined its impressive Perception collection with the new V3 powered by a French-made Pequignet caliber, giving the integrated sports watch category another genuinely interesting entrant beyond the usual Royal Oak cosplay. IWC rolled out a particularly handsome Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar in gold with an olive dial and its increasingly useful ProSet correction system, while Longines revived the 42mm Legend Diver architecture with a faithful no-date execution that may end up becoming one of the sleeper enthusiast favorites of the year. Seiko leaned into traditional craftsmanship with new Arita porcelain Presage models celebrating the company’s 145th anniversary, and Timex teamed with Todd Snyder for a stylish rectangular Lexington dress watch that feels aggressively retro in the best possible way.
At the enthusiast and independent level, there was also plenty to like. Ochs und Junior continued doing beautifully weird engineering minimalism with the Calendario Quattro Anni four-year calendar, Maen delivered a compact GMT traveler with vintage flair, and Trafford pushed bright rectangular color experimentation further with the playful Crossroads S collection. Meanwhile, the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale” quietly offered one of the more interesting small-run dress-watch propositions of the week with compact dimensions and tasteful restraint that feels increasingly rare in an era where every launch tries to scream directly into Instagram’s algorithm.
Review coverage leaned heavily toward icons old and new. Patek Philippe’s latest Golden Ellipse earned praise for its elegant green-and-gold aesthetic, even if reviewers questioned whether it truly represents the pinnacle of the line. Over on the tool-watch side, the Tudor Pelagos FXD continued its victory lap as one of the most respected modern military-inspired divers on the market, with reviewers applauding its stripped-down honesty and titanium practicality.
The video universe remained equally entertaining. The Honest Watch Dealer warned viewers that certain modern Rolex models are suddenly becoming difficult to move as early-release hype fades, particularly around the Land-Dweller and some steel Submariner references. Jenni Elle stirred things up further with a provocative “AP’s downfall has begun” discussion centered around hype fatigue and secondary market saturation, while Andrew and James tackled the eternal question of whether luxury watches are fundamentally overpriced. Spoiler alert: yes, but apparently everyone still wants them anyway. Deployant also delivered an excellent interview with Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger discussing the final edition of the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Architecture, which remains one of the most visually insane mechanical sculptures currently pretending to be a wristwatch.
Podcast listeners had a busy day as well, with Scottish Watches diving into Prestex’s creative Marcato jump-hour release and aBlogtoWatch discussing the increasingly blurry line between luxury merchandising, tourbillon discounts, and marketing warfare.
Over at BuyingTime, Thursday’s A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone in white gold failed to hit reserve after bidding reached $35,500, proving that even exceptional German watchmaking occasionally collides with the reality of cautious buyers. Tonight’s featured auction shifts back into pure 2026 madness with the no-reserve 2026 Audemars Piguet Royal Pop “Orenji Hachi” in blue and orange. Frankly, it may end up becoming the sleeper hit of the entire AP × Swatch circus. It is ridiculous, oddly charming, aggressively unserious, and somehow still one of the most culturally important watches released this year. Which, honestly, tells you almost everything you need to know about the current state of watch collecting.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Citizen becomes CHF 1 billion watchmaker as sales climb 10%
Citizen reported a strong year ended March 31, 2026, with its watches division turnover up 10% to ¥197 billion (about CHF 1 billion), while overall group sales rose 9.4% to ¥347 billion. Operating profit increased 8.7% to ¥30.2 billion, with momentum boosted by a particularly strong Q4 and improved profitability. The company attributed growth to solid demand across Japan, Europe, and North America, alongside effective marketing tied to Bulova’s 150th anniversary. Looking ahead, Citizen expects continued progress but forecasts watch sales growth will moderate to around 2% in fiscal 2026–27.
Royal Pop prices drop 6% on secondary market
Royal Pop watches from the Swatch × Audemars Piguet collaboration saw resale prices fall about 6–7% in a single day after an early surge that sent many models to roughly four times retail. StockX data shows the eight-watch set averaging about $9,476 versus $3,240 retail, while individual pieces have also dipped even as they remain well above original pricing. Listings across eBay, Chrono24, and StockX suggest the market is starting to normalize, with fewer extreme asks and pricing that better reflects actual demand. Even with the pullback, most models still command strong premiums, with retail multiples now clustering around roughly 3.6× to 4.7×.
Royal Pop Sales Resume After Launch Rush For Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced Store Closures
The Royal Pop launch drew overwhelming crowds that forced many Swatch boutiques worldwide to close on safety grounds, with police deployed in multiple regions. Despite the disruptions, sales resumed in some locations, and the $400 watch continued to attract intense demand. The frenzy quickly spilled into the secondary market, where prices rose far above retail across platforms like eBay and auctions. Swatch emphasized that the collection would be available for months, but noted stores may pause sales again if lines grow too large—echoing the chaos of the 2022 MoonSwatch rollout.
Feature Time
Hamilton Gets Into Character For Disclosure Day
Hamilton watches play a prominent role in the upcoming thriller Disclosure Day, premiering June 12, 2026, where key characters wear Hamilton timepieces as part of their on-screen identity. The story centers on a whistleblower and a meteorologist trying to reveal evidence of aliens while powerful officials attempt to suppress the truth. Two specific models are highlighted: the rugged Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm with a black PVD case and NATO strap, and the dressier Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 40mm with a blue-fumé dial and leather strap. Both are non-limited editions that underscore Hamilton’s blend of utilitarian design and cinematic visibility.
The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference
Delugs introduced a tool-free micro-adjustment version of its CTS deployant clasp, adding up to 3mm of extension per side to fine-tune fit without taking the watch off. The update refines comfort and alignment, with smoother edges and a secure spring-loaded butterfly mechanism designed to prevent accidental shifts. It’s offered in multiple widths and finishes, and is compatible with Delugs CTS rubber straps while including the necessary spring bars (plus spares). While the adjustment range is modest, the piece is positioned as a meaningful everyday comfort upgrade—especially when wrist size changes with temperature.
Padel Is Now Watchmaking’s Newest Court of Play
Audemars Piguet is moving into luxury padel by becoming the Official Timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour and partnering with world-number-one player Agustín Tapia. The activation goes beyond branding, with court clocks, venue presence, and planned pro-am events and club collaborations aimed at embedding the brand in the sport’s broader lifestyle ecosystem. The piece frames padel as a fast-growing, high-end social sport that naturally attracts watchmakers seeking affluent audiences and community-driven experiences. It also notes the competitive landscape, with several other major brands already aligning with padel leagues and top players.
The Latest Time
Alato
Alato Ögonsten
The Alato Ögonsten is positioned as a stylish, budget-friendly everyday watch aimed at new collectors, priced under $300. It comes in a 38mm stainless-steel case with 100m water resistance and uses a Swiss-made Ronda 6004 quartz movement with an estimated 40-month battery life. The lineup focuses on classic design cues (sunburst dial, leaf hands) while keeping specs practical and accessible. It’s launching via Kickstarter, emphasizing value and approachability in the microbrand space.
Atelier Wen
Atelier Wen Refines its Core Collection with the Perception V3
Atelier Wen’s Perception V3 upgrades its integrated sports watch with a French-made Pequignet EPM03 automatic caliber, featuring a 4 Hz beat rate, about a 65-hour power reserve, and chronometer-grade accuracy targets. The 40mm, 904L steel case remains slim (about 10mm) with 100m water resistance, and the collection adds a new bamboo-green “Yun” dial alongside existing colors. The movement is heavily decorated and visible through a sapphire caseback, reinforcing the brand’s craftsmanship narrative. The Perception V3 is priced at $4,850.
Horologically Unique
The Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale”
The HU‑01 “Finale” blends classic Calatrava-style proportions with modern materials, offered with either a brushed-grey dial or a jade-toned “Yu” dial accented by lab-grown diamonds. It’s a compact watch at 34mm in diameter (41mm lug-to-lug, 10.1mm thick) powered by the Peseux/ETA 7001 hand-wound movement (21,600 vph, 42-hour reserve). Production is limited to 80 pieces for the grey version and 30 for the jade edition, emphasizing collectibility. Pricing is listed around $2,014 (grey) or $2,327 (jade).
IWC
IWC Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar ProSet Gold and Olive Dial
This Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar ProSet pairs a 42mm 5N gold case with an olive-green sunray dial, aiming for a high-luxury look without losing everyday wearability. The headline feature is IWC’s ProSet system, which allows forward or backward calendar correction via the crown, reducing the traditional risk of damaging a perpetual calendar during adjustments. Inside is the Calibre 82665 with a Pellaton winding system, ceramic components, and a 60-hour power reserve, plus a double-moon display for both hemispheres. The watch is priced at $54,700.
Longines
The new Longines Legend Diver 59, The Return of the 42mm Icon
The Legend Diver 59 revives Longines’ 1959-era 42mm case architecture with dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, while modernizing durability with 300m water resistance and a domed sapphire crystal. It runs on the L888.6 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring for improved anti-magnetic performance. The no-date dial keeps the vintage symmetry intact, and the package includes a Milanese mesh bracelet plus an extra rubber strap. Pricing is listed at CHF 3,400 (≈ EUR 4,000), which is about $4,300.
Maen
First Look: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT MKII, A Compact Traveller’s Watch with Vintage Flair
Maen’s Hudson 38 GMT MKII updates the brand’s compact travel-dive concept with a 38mm steel case (about 11mm thick), 300m water resistance, and a box-domed sapphire crystal. It uses the Sellita SW330-2 automatic GMT movement with a 56-hour power reserve and pairs it with a bidirectional 60-click bezel and a luminous GMT hand for practical tracking. The watch comes on a five-link bracelet with quick-release end links and a micro-adjust clasp, offered with two bezel colorways. Pricing is listed at EUR 1,249 (about $1,450) with a planned EUR 100 increase after May 24 (about $115).
Ochs und Junior
The Ochs und Junior Calendario Quattro Anni, Oechslin’s Four-Year Calendar Watch
The Calendario Quattro Anni is a minimalist four-year calendar designed to need only one manual correction per leap year, using an ETA 2824-2 base with a cleverly simplified calendar mechanism. It’s housed in a 40mm titanium case (about 11mm thick), weighs roughly 65g, and offers 100m water resistance, paired with a dark blue Ecopell calfskin strap. The dial uses restrained apertures and color accents to communicate month/date changes without visual clutter, staying true to the brand’s Bauhaus-meets-engineering identity. Pricing is CHF 7,460 incl. VAT or CHF 6,900 for export, which is about $9,500 or $8,800.
Seiko
Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage
Seiko expands its Presage “Craftsmanship” line with two Arita-porcelain-dial limited editions tied to its 145th anniversary, leaning into traditional artisanal dial production techniques. The larger model is 39.6mm with 30m water resistance, while the smaller is 26mm and rated to 100m, and both use the Cal. 6R51 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Production is limited (1,500 pieces for the larger model and 2,500 for the smaller), and both skip a date window for a cleaner look. Pricing is listed around €1,800 and €1,050, which is about $2,100 and $1,220.
Timex X Todd Snyder
Timex X Todd Snyder 1976 Lexington Dress Watch
Timex and Todd Snyder reinterpret the rectangular 1976 Lexington as an accessible dress watch with a distinctly vintage-meets-modern aesthetic. The polished steel case measures 21mm × 35.5mm (8.5mm thick) and uses a straightforward quartz M060 movement with an estimated three-year battery life. Design emphasis is on dial colorways and styling rather than high specs, with quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes and 30m water resistance for daily use. The watch is priced at $169.
Trafford
Trafford Crossroads S
Trafford’s Crossroads S collection introduces compact rectangular watches in bright paired color themes, aiming for playful design with serious everyday specs. The cases come in two sizes (35×36mm or 31×32mm) with 100m water resistance and a hand-wound Sellita SW210 movement providing a 42-hour power reserve. Details like colored lume, polished syringe hands, and careful finishing are used to elevate the “accessible distinctive” positioning. The Crossroads S is priced at $899 (with optional bracelet available for extra).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Patek Philippe
Is The Latest Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738G-001 The Greatest?
This review looks at Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G‑001, emphasizing its olive-green sunburst dial, matching green strap, and ultra-thin white-gold case that makes it the thinnest model in the brand’s collection. While the colorway strongly evokes a 1970s vibe, the watch is framed more as a design statement than a technical flex, given the Caliber 240’s 48-hour power reserve. The piece ultimately argues that, despite the fresh look, this isn’t the most compelling version of the Golden Ellipse line, and points to alternative references as stronger picks.
Tudor
Tudor Pelagos FXD Review: A Modern Military Dive Watch That Earns the Hype
The Tudor Pelagos FXD is presented as a modern military-style dive watch that balances tough, utilitarian design with surprising everyday comfort. Its matte titanium case, fixed strap bars, and grippy bezel lean into a purpose-built tool-watch feel, while the reduced water resistance and removal of the helium escape valve are portrayed as making the watch feel more “honest” on-wrist. Details like cleaner dial text and strap-friendly bar finishing support legibility and versatility, especially for strap changes. The in-house MT5602 is highlighted for solid performance and a 70-hour power reserve, reinforcing the FXD’s reputation as a reliable daily wearer.
Watching Time - Videos
These Rolex Models Are NOT Selling! - Watch Dealer’s Market Update - YouTube - The Honest Watch Dealer
The Honest Watch Dealer shares a 2026 Rolex market update, noting overall values are ticking up as supply of new/unworn pieces coming through dealers has tightened. They highlight models that are currently sluggish, including the Land-Dweller (36/40) dropping sharply from early hype pricing and the steel Submariner “Starbucks,” which has cooled and is selling slowly. The video also warns about buyers getting burned on early secondary pricing for new releases like the Oyster Perpetual on Jubilee as more supply hits. They contrast that with continued scarcity/strength in certain Daytonas (especially Oysterflex) and the GMT “Bruce Wayne,” which they say continues to move quickly.
YASHA ANSWERS THE INTERNET - YouTube - The Rex Watches NYC
In this Q&A, Yasha from The Rex Watches NYC answers viewer questions about buying and selling watches in NYC’s Diamond District. The discussion covers what their day-to-day work looks like, how to approach selling a watch to their shop, and what to expect when dealing in pre-owned watches. It’s presented in a casual interview format with practical guidance rather than a deep dive into specific models. The video also directs viewers to contact the shop (text/WhatsApp) for inquiries and clarifies they aren’t affiliated with the brands they sell.
Luxury Watches Are Overpriced - YouTube
Andrew and James argue that luxury watches often carry markups driven more by distribution and brand economics than pure build cost. They break down a typical retail price into retailer margin and manufacturer margin, suggesting only a small portion reflects direct manufacturing cost. The conversation also discusses where the rest of the money goes—overhead, R&D, tooling, after-sales service, and especially marketing. They frame luxury pricing as partly psychological, fueled by scarcity and status dynamics, even when real quality exists.
Greymarket-Dealer: “APs downfall has begun.” - YouTube - Jenni Elle
The rapid decline of AP is examined through a focused analysis that highlights emerging market vulnerabilities. By scrutinizing recent developments, the summary underscores the urgency for strategic responses to mitigate potential fallout. Insights emphasize the importance of timely action, illustrating how swift adjustments can address the challenges posed by AP’s downturn and protect broader market stability.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Architecture - YouTube - Deployant.com
Deployant.com shares a short interview with Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger about the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Architecture “final edition.” He explains this is the concluding release after the brand committed to producing the movement for five years. The final edition uses a deep black coating on the main plate to visually minimize it and emphasize the open architecture and components—especially the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Nydegger also points to case details like a sapphire opening around the case band and hints a future replacement model is coming.
221. Royal Oak Keychains, Tourbillon Bargains, and Advertising Wars - YouTube - aBlogtoWatch Weekly
This entry examines how “affordable luxury” accessories—like Royal Oak keychains—and discounted tourbillon offers can shape perception and demand by borrowing prestige cues from high-end watchmaking. It breaks down how pricing and marketing tactics create a sense of exclusivity while still staying within reach for a broader audience. The piece also explores how brands end up in competitive advertising cycles when they pursue similar promotional strategies. Overall, it frames these tactics as a driver of both consumer desire and brand rivalry.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #780 : TAG, Formula 1 and Duckworth Prestex’s Most Creative Watch Yet - The Marcato - Scottish Watches
This episode looks at Duckworth Prestex (now operating under the Prestex name) and digs into its new Marcato jump-hour watch. Neil Duckworth explains why the jump-hour display sits at 9 o’clock, how the “Marcato” name ties to musical inspiration, and why the slim Sellita SW300 was chosen to keep the watch elegant despite the complication. The conversation also touches on the growth of enthusiast-led watch shows and Prestex opening its first dedicated showroom in Buckinghamshire, plus Neil’s role as UK distributor for the revived Favre Leuba brand.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Thursday’s auction watch on GetBezel.com, the 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone White Gold / Black (136.029) - was bid to $35,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
No Reserve - 2026 Audemars Piguet Royal Pop “Orenji Hachi” 40MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (SSX03L103N)
Royal Pop Goes Navy: The “Orenji Hachi” Might Be the Sleeper Hit of the Entire AP x Swatch Circus
The 2026 Audemars Piguet Royal Pop “Orenji Hachi” may end up being remembered as the watch that perfectly captured the absurdity, brilliance, and chaos of the 2026 watch market. Somewhere between collectible art object, wearable social media flex, and accidental riot catalyst, this blue-and-orange collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet has already secured its place in horological pop culture history. The auction for this example ends tonight (Tuesday, May 19, 2026) at 11:02 PM EDT, and the seller represents the watch as brand new with the original box and bag included.
The “Orenji Hachi” — reference SSX03L103N — is one of the eight launch pieces from the Royal Pop collection, the wildly hyped collaboration that fused the visual DNA of the Royal Oak with Swatch’s resurrected 1980s POP platform. The result was a bizarre but strangely compelling hybrid: a 40mm Bioceramic pocket-watch-inspired piece with a blue tapisserie-style dial, orange bezel screws, orange stitching, and a detachable leather strap system that somehow manages to look both ridiculous and completely intentional. The watch runs on a hand-wound variation of Swatch’s Sistem51 movement with a reported 90-hour power reserve, which is honestly more impressive than it has any right to be at this price point.
And yes, the launch was complete mayhem. Store closures, fights, pepper spray incidents, police intervention, overnight camping, and resale madness immediately pushed the Royal Pop collection into MoonSwatch-level hysteria, except arguably worse. Swatch stores across the United States and Europe temporarily shut down after crowds became unmanageable. Secondary market prices exploded almost immediately, with some sets listed for tens of thousands of dollars and individual models rapidly trading well above retail. The “Orenji Hachi” emerged early as one of the strongest colorways because it actually feels wearable compared to some of the louder variants in the collection. The navy-and-orange combination gives it a vaguely vintage sports-team energy while still leaning heavily into AP’s luxury design language.
What makes this whole thing fascinating is that the Royal Pop is technically not even a traditional wristwatch. It is a pocket-watch-inspired object masquerading as a fashion accessory masquerading as a luxury watch collaboration. And yet collectors clearly do not care. In typical 2026 fashion, scarcity, hype, memes, and resale culture became more important than whether the thing made any practical sense. The irony is that Audemars Piguet, a brand built on exclusivity and ultra-high-end mechanical legitimacy, suddenly became associated with mall stampedes and TikTok flipping culture. Somewhere, Gérald Genta is either laughing hysterically or demanding royalties.
As for value, the market remains extremely volatile because the launch is still fresh. Retail pricing landed around the $400 range, but unworn examples have already appeared on secondary platforms near the equivalent of $1,800 USD and above depending on configuration and completeness. Whether prices remain elevated will depend on how long Swatch keeps distribution constrained and whether the company floods the market later this summer. But in the short term, this piece has all the ingredients collectors currently chase: controversy, instant recognizability, strong color execution, and the magical phrase “sold out.”
Frankly, I think this watch works. It should not. But it does. The “Orenji Hachi” is weird enough to feel collectible without crossing fully into novelty-watch territory. And unlike some of the brighter Royal Pop variants, this one might actually still look good five years from now. That alone probably makes it one of the smarter buys in the collection.
Current bid: $1,700