BuyingTime Daily - May 14, 2026
Royal Pop mania continues, new Seikos, Geneva Seal’s big move, orbital IWC ambition, and a purple AP Royal Oak tourbillon at auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
“Pocket watch summer” was apparently not a joke. The luxury watch universe spent most of May 13 trying to process the increasingly surreal launch frenzy surrounding the Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop collaboration, with flippers already attempting to turn a roughly £350 bioceramic fob watch into a £1,500 flex before the watches have even officially reached wrists, pockets, or apparently neck lanyards. Somewhere in Switzerland, a marketing executive is probably staring lovingly at spreadsheets while collectors prepare to camp outside stores for a watch that technically isn’t even a watch in the conventional sense. The collaboration’s hand-wound SISTEM51 movement, Royal Oak-inspired geometry, and scarcity-fueled distribution strategy have already transformed the Royal Pop into the closest thing the industry currently has to a luxury Happy Meal toy for adults. The funniest part may be that the discourse surrounding the collection has become almost more entertaining than the watches themselves, with YouTube commentators split between declaring the project genius, sacrilege, performance art, or the end of Western civilization.
Meanwhile, the luxury retail landscape continues shifting in interesting ways as Geneva Seal Gallery packed up from East Oak Street and planted a massive new flag in Chicago’s Fulton Market district. The move feels symbolic well beyond watches. Fulton Market has increasingly become the preferred habitat for affluent professionals who want their luxury retail mixed with restaurants, boutique offices, creative studios, and expensive espresso. The new 16,000-square-foot flagship gives independent brands and names like Breitling, Omega, Hublot, and H. Moser & Cie. a significant stage in one of America’s fastest-evolving luxury corridors. Somewhere, traditional Michigan Avenue landlords are quietly stress-eating.
The feature stories today leaned heavily into questions of identity and restraint. A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid offered a fascinating reminder that high horology still operates on timelines wildly disconnected from the modern hype cycle. Scaling production at Lange isn’t as simple as “make more watches,” especially when the company is trying to preserve finishing standards while training watchmakers capable of assembling movements most humans cannot even pronounce correctly. On the opposite end of the design spectrum, De Rijke & Co.’s minimalist Capri demonstrated that independent brands continue finding clever ways to balance Bauhaus restraint with modern ergonomics and playful engineering details.
Then there was IWC, which effectively decided ordinary pilot’s watches were no longer ambitious enough and built the Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive for actual orbital use. With its bezel-driven interface, rocker switch controls, and testing for the upcoming Haven-1 space station, the watch feels less like traditional Swiss watchmaking and more like something designed by engineers who casually use the phrase “pressure chamber qualification” during lunch. At $28,200, it may also be the first watch specifically designed for people who view low Earth orbit as a lifestyle accessory.
The “pocket watch renaissance” story gained additional momentum today as multiple outlets argued that 2026 may genuinely become the year the category returns to cultural relevance. That still sounds slightly absurd until you step back and realize the industry has spent the last several years rediscovering smaller watches, jewelry-adjacent accessories, and nostalgia-driven design language. If someone had predicted five years ago that luxury collectors would enthusiastically line up for brightly colored bioceramic pocket watches with AP branding, they probably would have been escorted out of Baselworld by security.
New releases continued arriving at a pace that increasingly suggests every brand on earth is terrified of being ignored for 48 consecutive hours. Bell & Ross unveiled the technically impressive BR-X3 Patrouille de France, while Bulova went full stealth mode with the Lunar Pilot “Black Hole,” a watch apparently coated in enough darkness to absorb nearby joy and ambient light simultaneously. H. Moser & Cie. countered with a wildly attractive lime-green Streamliner enamel dial that somehow works far better than it has any right to. Panerai delivered another enormous skeletonized Submersible GMT that looks capable of surviving either a deep-sea dive or an industrial accident. Parmigiani Fleurier continued its quiet campaign to become the thinking collector’s integrated-bracelet obsession with a rose-gold Tonda PF Chronograph that may be one of the most elegant chronographs released this year.
Seiko arguably had one of the busiest days in the industry, slimming down its GPS Solar Astron while simultaneously rolling out anniversary editions across the Prospex and Presage lines. The new Presage porcelain and silk-textured dials especially reinforced Seiko’s ability to dominate the “looks far more expensive than it is” category with alarming consistency. Elsewhere, Orient Star celebrated its 75th anniversary with a sharply executed skeletonized hand-wound piece that continues the brand’s ongoing mission to quietly embarrass competitors at higher price points.
The review section leaned heavily into enthusiast practicality and modern wearability. Citizen’s Promaster Land GMT earned praise for value and functionality despite its slightly unconventional GMT implementation, while the Horage Tourbillon 3 Relik continued proving that independent brands can now deliver legitimate haute horlogerie specifications in sizes normal humans can actually wear. Jaeger-LeCoultre quietly revived gem-set Reverso cocktail references because apparently even the Reverso now has a nightlife strategy. Vacheron Constantin pushed the Overseas Dual Time further into titanium sport-luxury territory, and Zenith reminded everyone that a properly executed tropical chronograph dial remains one of watchmaking’s most unfair aesthetic advantages.
Over in comparison land, the search for worthy replacements for the discontinued Seiko SARB033 continued, which is basically the watch enthusiast equivalent of trying to replace a favorite pair of jeans from 2012 that you irrationally believe were made better than everything currently available.
The video lineup today was almost entirely consumed by Royal Pop mania, with creators debating whether the collaboration is brilliant, embarrassing, historically important, commercially cynical, or all four simultaneously. Oisín O’Malley, Britt Pearce, and several others dissected the release from every possible angle, while TimePiece Talk dramatically asked whether the $300 AP watch is a scam. In fairness, the modern watch industry does increasingly resemble performance art wrapped in scarcity economics and sold with complimentary tote bags.
Podcast listeners got a strong episode from the Business of Watches Podcast featuring Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito discussing Credor, Grand Seiko, and the challenge of scaling ultra-premium Japanese watchmaking without sacrificing craftsmanship. The conversation also hinted at future dive-watch developments that will almost certainly result in collectors once again convincing themselves they urgently need another titanium sports watch.
Finally, over at BuyingTime at Auction, Wednesday’s spectacularly limited Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary failed to meet reserve but remains available for anyone suddenly discovering they have an extra $27,690 lying around. Meanwhile tonight’s featured auction belongs to the purple-dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary,” which continues quietly reminding the industry that even amid all the bioceramic chaos, ultra-thin steel Royal Oaks with flying tourbillons still occupy a completely different level of collector obsession.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Flippers advertise £350 AP x Swatch Royal Pop for £1,500
Ahead of the May 16 launch, early listings show the Swatch × Audemars Piguet Royal Pop pieces being advertised well above retail, with some pre-sale prices ranging from about £1,200 to $2,030. The collection consists of eight colorful, bioceramic fob watches that echo the Royal Oak’s design language and use a Swiss-made Sistem51 mechanical movement with a 90-hour power reserve. The watches will be sold only in physical Swatch stores with strict purchase limits, fueling hype and encouraging camping and queueing in major cities. The combination of scarcity, fashion-forward design, and collaboration branding is driving the resale frenzy and concerns about theft.
Geneva Seal moves to Chicago’s Fulton Market
Geneva Seal Gallery has relocated from Chicago’s East Oak Street to a new 16,000-square-foot flagship in Fulton Market, signaling the neighborhood’s rise as a luxury retail destination. The new space is designed to showcase 26 independent watchmakers while also housing mono-brand boutiques for major names like Breitling, Omega, Hublot, and H. Moser & Cie. The move reflects a broader shift of high-end retail toward mixed-use, “live-work-play” districts favored by affluent professionals and creative businesses.
Feature Time
Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions
This interview previews A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming releases, including discussion around the Saxonia Annual Calendar and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen.” Schmid explains how the brand thinks about limited editions, and why scaling output isn’t simply a matter of demand when training watchmakers and supporting new movements takes significant time. He also addresses why Lange avoids a custom-order model, keeping focus on disciplined production and long-term consistency. The conversation frames these decisions against the broader Watches & Wonders backdrop and Lange’s strategy of balancing innovation with capacity constraints.
De Rijke and Co.’s Balancing Act
De Rijke & Co. is positioned as a brand that routinely challenges conventional watch design, shifting from bold, mechanism-driven concepts to more playful collaborations. The Capri marks a deliberate pivot toward minimalist elegance, centered on a rectangular dress-watch silhouette and a curved crystal inspired by 1930s shop windows. The piece also highlights how Laurens De Rijke’s engineering mindset shapes the watch’s execution, including sourcing complex curved glass and integrating hidden construction details. Overall, the story emphasizes a design philosophy that prioritizes ergonomics, visual clarity, and a distinctly Dutch, Bauhaus-leaning restraint.
A Closer Look: IWC’s Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive Is Built for Orbit
IWC’s Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is presented as a purpose-built mechanical watch for human spaceflight, replacing a traditional crown with a bezel-driven system and a side rocker switch. Developed with Vast, it pairs Ceratanium with a white zirconium oxide ceramic case and a long 120-hour power reserve, designed to operate reliably across changing gravity conditions. The story underscores the extensive qualification testing—vibration, pressure-chamber work, and material compatibility—required for use on the upcoming Haven-1 commercial space station. At $28,200, it’s framed as a boundary-pushing tool watch that merges high-horology engineering with aerospace requirements.
9 of the Best-Looking Watch Winders for Showing Off Your Collection
This piece curates nine watch winders chosen as much for design appeal as for mechanical utility, ranging from compact single-watch units to larger multi-watch cabinets and sculptural display-style systems. It highlights premium materials and finishes—lacquered wood, leather, and decorative inlays—positioning winders as functional décor for collectors. The story also emphasizes the wide spread in pricing, from entry-level options to high-end units costing several thousand. Across the selection, features like programmable rotation, touchscreen controls, fingerprint locks, Bluetooth connectivity, and lighting are framed as ways to combine presentation with proper care for automatic watches.
Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop: Price, Where to Buy and Release Date
The Royal Pop collaboration is described as an eight-piece collection of convertible pocket watches that translates Royal Oak-inspired design cues into Swatch’s bioceramic format. Launching May 16, 2026, the watches are priced around £335–£350 and use a hand-wound SISTEM51 movement with a 90-hour power reserve, with two models adding small seconds. Each version is differentiated by bold color combinations and naming tied to “eight” in multiple languages, reinforcing the collectible theme. The limited in-store sales approach—one watch per person per day—echoes the MoonSwatch playbook while the proceeds are directed toward preserving watchmaking heritage and supporting future talent.
Why the Pocket Watch could be the Biggest Trend of 2026
This article argues that pocket watches are resurging, driven by a mix of modern collaborations, limited editions, and headline-grabbing auction results that have renewed collector interest. It points to both contemporary releases from major brands and the market impact of historically significant pieces selling for extraordinary sums, reinforcing the category’s craftsmanship appeal. The story also connects pocket watches to current fashion and cultural visibility, including appearances in luxury campaigns and on red carpets. At the same time, it acknowledges the practicality debate, suggesting pocket watches may thrive more as tactile art objects and special-occasion accessories than as everyday wear for most people.
The Latest Time
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Patrouille de France—The Brand’s Most Coveted Watch for France’s Most Elite Pilots
The BR‑X3 Patrouille de France is a technically ambitious pilot’s watch built around Bell & Ross’ partnership with France’s elite aerobatic team, combining a multi-layer dial with aviation-specific motifs like an Alpha Jet seconds hand and “Diamond” formation insignia. The 41 mm steel case is matched to a COSC-certified automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve, plus 100 meters of water resistance and two strap options (rubber and Velcro nylon). Positioned as a collector-focused tool watch, it’s limited to 250 pieces and presented as the most complete expression of the collaboration to date. The listed price is $8,100.
Bulova
Bulova Lunar Pilot “Black Hole”
Bulova’s Lunar Pilot “Black Hole” pushes the moonwatch concept into extreme stealth territory with a Musou black-coated 41 mm case that absorbs most ambient light, paired with a high-frequency quartz chronograph movement. Practical specs are still front-and-center: sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating, a screw-down caseback, and 100 meters of water resistance. The package is also designed as a collectible, including a special presentation box with a travel pouch and a themed travel clock. The listed price is $1,650.
H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Lime Green Enamel Boutique Edition
This Streamliner Small Seconds edition spotlights a vivid lime-green enamel fumé dial that fades darker toward the edges, keeping Moser’s minimalist, logo-free aesthetic intact. The 39 mm steel case and integrated bracelet maintain the Streamliner’s sporty profile, backed by 120 meters of water resistance. Inside is the in-house HMC 500 automatic with a platinum micro-rotor and a 74-hour power reserve, finished in Moser’s contemporary anthracite style. The listed price is $42,752 (converted from CHF 33,400).
Orient Star
The Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding
Created for Orient Star’s 75th anniversary, the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding is a limited 430-piece release built around a skeletonized display that highlights a blue silicon escape wheel produced with MEMS technology. The 39 mm black-plated steel case and bracelet give it a modern, technical look, while the hand-wound movement delivers a 70-hour power reserve. It comes with an additional black cordovan leather strap, reinforcing the idea that this is meant to be worn as both a sportier statement piece and a dressier alternative. The listed price is $3,250.
Panerai
The Skeletonized Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495
The PAM01495 is a maximalist Submersible concept: a 47 mm titanium DMLS case designed to cut weight, paired with a skeletonized movement view and a bold blue-and-orange color scheme. Functionally, it layers serious dive specs (500 m water resistance) with a GMT display and a 72-hour power reserve from twin barrels, while keeping Panerai’s industrial design language front and center. The watch is positioned for a boutique, statement-piece audience rather than traditional understated luxury buyers. The listed price is $50,300.
Parmigiani Fleurier
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold
Parmigiani’s rose-gold Tonda PF Chronograph elevates the line with a mineral-blue guilloché dial and a fully matching gold bracelet, leaning into refined finishing rather than overt sport styling. The integrated PF070 chronograph runs at a high 5 Hz, is COSC-certified, and uses a column-wheel architecture with a 65-hour power reserve. At 40 mm, it keeps the proportions relatively compact for a precious-metal chronograph while emphasizing warm metal tones against the cool blue dial. The listed price is $89,600 (converted from CHF 70,000).
Seiko
Seiko Slims the Solar-Powered Astron
Seiko’s new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph series marks the brand’s 145th anniversary by refining its high-end quartz platform into a slimmer 12.4 mm case while retaining GPS-synced timekeeping and a full complication set (dual time, perpetual calendar, world time, and chronograph). The story also emphasizes a new push-button interchangeable strap system, bringing more versatility and hinting at potential future retrofits. Limited editions include a 2,000-piece run, with different configurations spanning titanium bracelets and silicone straps. Prices are listed as $3,167–$3,519 (converted from €2,700–€3,000).
The Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001, a Duo of Divers in Seiko Blue and Silver
These two Prospex anniversary divers reinterpret familiar Seiko designs with strong “Seiko Blue” accents and updated specs aimed at modern wearability. The HBC005 modernizes the 1965-inspired Heritage Diver format in a 40 mm coated steel case and is positioned as the higher tier option with a 3-day power reserve movement, limited to 4,000 pieces. The HBB001 “Samurai” follows with a slightly larger but still compact profile, a more accessible spec set, and a higher production cap at 9,999 units. Prices are listed as $1,760 (converted from €1,500) for the HBC005 and $762(converted from €650) for the HBB001.
The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004
Seiko’s Presage anniversary pair leans hard into craft dials, with the HCC007 using deep cobalt Arita porcelain and the HCC004 using a more understated silk-textured aesthetic. Both run on the 6R51 automatic with a 72-hour power reserve, but they target different use cases via sizing and water resistance—39.6 mm / 30 m for the porcelain model versus 36 mm / 100 m for the silk-textured version. Limited production (1,500 and 2,500 pieces) keeps them positioned as celebratory collector releases rather than standard lineup staples. Prices are listed as $2,112 (converted from €1,800) for the HCC007 and $1,232 (converted from €1,050) for the HCC004.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Citizen
The Citizen Promaster Land GMT Watch Adds A Second Timezone To A Fan-Favorite Design
The Citizen Promaster Land GMT extends the Promaster Tough formula with a 39.5 mm stainless-steel case, 200 m water resistance, and a fixed 24-hour bezel for tracking a second time zone. It comes in two variants—a blue dial on a gray NATO strap and a red dial on a steel bracelet—both with bold Arabic numerals, a date at 3 o’clock, and bright blue-glowing lume. Power comes from Citizen’s Eco‑Drive Caliber B878, which charges from light and includes features like low-charge warning and quick-start. The review notes the GMT implementation is unconventional, since timezone changes require advancing the local 12-hour hand (no backward adjustment), making travel use less intuitive even though overall value remains strong.
Horage
Horage Tourbillon 3 Relik Watch Review
The Horage Tourbillon 3 Relik is positioned as a more wearable, “affordable” high-complication option, shrinking the concept into a 38.5 mm case compared to earlier, larger models. Its skeletonized dial uses a grid of colored squares to frame a flying tourbillon, while the caseback reveals the K‑TOU movement architecture and its five-day power reserve. Practicality is emphasized alongside spectacle, with 100 m water resistance, a sapphire crystal presentation, and a dark-blue rubber strap. The review highlights modern performance specs like silicon escapement and silicon hairspring plus COSC certification, while acknowledging the strap choice may not appeal to everyone.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail”
Jaeger‑LeCoultre has quietly brought back the Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail” collection, adding two white-gold versions set with 46 baguette-cut emeralds or blue sapphires, alongside an updated rose-gold ruby model. The watches keep the familiar Reverso proportions (45.6 × 27.4 × 7.56 mm) and use the manually wound caliber 822 with a 42-hour power reserve, paired here with a white-gold Milanese bracelet. The launch was seeded through celebrity visibility—worn at the Met Gala—and supported by plans for a Miami pop-up later in May. The piece frames the strategy as a mix of craftsmanship, controlled scarcity (reported 30 pieces per style), and modern brand-building aimed at raising visibility with newer audiences.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”
The Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” editions add a second time zone to the Overseas line in a 41 mm titanium case with 150 m water resistance and a color-coded theme across four versions (North, South, East, West). Inside is the automatic Cal. 5110 DT/3 with a 60-hour power reserve, and the overall package is built around versatility, including an interchangeable titanium bracelet plus matching rubber or textile straps. The review positions the watch as a pragmatic, sport-luxury dual-time offering that still carries Vacheron’s finishing and design identity without moving into ultra-thin precious-metal pricing territory. Subtle orange accents and coordinated dial/strap details are presented as key to the collection’s cohesive visual character.
Zenith
Discovering The Magic Of The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical revives the blocky 1960s A384 case shape while introducing a “chocolate panda” tropical dial that blends an off-white base with warm brown registers and old-radium lume tones. It’s powered by the El Primero 400 automatic chronograph running at 36,600 vph with a 50-hour power reserve, keeping the performance narrative as central as the retro styling. Wearability is reinforced by the flexible ladder bracelet, which adds a strong vintage feel, even if the clasp is described as somewhat flimsy. The review frames the watch as a successful mix of heritage design cues, modern build quality, and a distinctive colorway that stands out within the Revival lineup.
Comparing Time
Best Seiko SARB033 Alternatives for Fans of the Discontinued Classic
This comparison rounds up a range of watches that can fill the everyday-wear role once occupied by the Seiko SARB033, focusing on clean styling, versatile sizing, and solid reliability. It compares options across multiple price tiers, from accessible Seiko picks like the SRPE51 to Swiss and microbrand alternatives such as the Mido Datoday, Monta Atlas, and Grand Seiko SBGV233. The analysis breaks down how each candidate matches (or improves on) the SARB033’s core strengths—subtle design, wearable dimensions, and practical performance—while calling out differences in movements, water resistance, and dial execution. The goal is to help readers choose the closest fit based on budget and the specific details they value most.
Watching Time - Videos
SWATCH AP Royal Pop / Oak REVEALED!! - YouTube - Oisín O Malley
Oisín O’Malley breaks down the hype around the Swatch × Audemars Piguet Royal Pop/Oak collaboration after days of speculation and AI mockups pointing toward a colorful Royal Oak-style wristwatch. The main twist, they argue, is that the real product shown by Monochrome isn’t a wristwatch at all—it’s a pocket watch/pendant—which could disappoint some people waiting in line. They still expect big launch-day queues in cities like NYC and London, plus early flipping above retail (already appearing on eBay), but predict it won’t have the MoonSwatch’s long-lasting momentum because it’s less wearable. The video also touches on the perceived “rivalry” between luxury and budget watch fans, suggesting most AP owners won’t feel threatened and may even be relieved it can’t be mistaken for a real Royal Oak.
Swatch X AP Royal Pop MISTAKE? Or Brilliant? - YouTube - Britt Pearce
Britt Pearce reacts to the official ROYAL POP release and argues it’s unexpectedly fun and culturally significant, capturing some of the original MoonSwatch energy. The video walks through the full lineup of colorways and explains the two pocket-watch-inspired formats (Lepine vs. Savonnette), along with availability and rollout details. A key technical highlight is a new hand-wound version of Swatch’s Sistem51 movement created specifically for this collaboration. Pearce also connects the release to 1980s Pop Swatch design DNA and Royal Oak pocket-watch history, then closes by outlining what they see as the biggest pitfalls Swatch needed to avoid—and why this launch feels like Swatch at its best.
Hamilton Released A NEW AFFORDABLE Seamaster?! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
This video reviews Hamilton’s newly released Khaki Navy Scuba diver as an “affordable Seamaster” alternative, focusing on the stylistic overlap with Omega’s Seamaster look and feel. The reviewer discusses why that visual similarity may be the main draw for buyers who want the vibe of a premium diver without paying luxury pricing. It also runs through key features/specs and frames the watch as a value-oriented option within the category. Overall, the takeaway is that Hamilton is delivering a recognizable design lane at a more approachable price point.
Hands on: Maen - Grand Tonneau Nico Leonard Collab - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
This hands-on review covers the Maen “Grand Tonneau” collaboration with Nico Leonard, using it as a springboard to talk about the upside and risk of influencer/brand partnerships. The video highlights a distinctive tonneau-shaped design with vintage vibes, offered with multiple fumé dial colors and a slim profile aimed at wearability. It also calls out the manual-wind La Joux-Perret D101 movement (no date, two-hander layout) and discusses competitive context at the price point. The conclusion praises the collab for being a genuinely original design rather than a lazy logo exercise, while warning that the influencer identity can sometimes overshadow the underlying brand.
Why The New $300 AP Watch Is A Scam - YouTube - TimePiece Talk
This video argues that a $300 AP-adjacent “Royal Pop” collaboration risks diluting the Royal Oak’s brand equity and could impact existing owners more than it attracts new buyers. It recaps how the Royal Oak became iconic—through Gerald Genta’s design plus scarcity and grey-market pricing—then frames the collaboration as a deliberate mass-audience awareness play. A major concern raised is that AP has lost elements of Royal Oak design trademark protection in key markets, potentially accelerating lookalike production and softening secondary-market values. The video ends by saying it’s only a “scam” if someone is buying for exclusivity/status; judged as a fun, well-designed automatic watch celebrating an iconic silhouette, it may still be a strong value.
The AP x Swatch Royal Pop Has A Hidden Secret... - YouTube
Andrew and James discuss the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop collaboration, describing it as a set of 40mm bioceramic, 1980s Pop Swatch-inspired pieces with accessories like lanyards and a desk clock. They point out that two models are rotated differently to accommodate a sub-seconds layout, and speculate the project may have originally included a bracelet before a late change. The hosts also debate how “proceeds” are framed—more as support for watchmaking know-how/training than straightforward charity—and what that messaging means. The episode closes on hype-cycle expectations, comparing likely early frenzy to MoonSwatch dynamics and questioning whether the collaboration meaningfully affects AP’s long-term brand perception.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito
This episode features a conversation with Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation, centered on Credor’s recent debut at Watches & Wonders and Seiko’s plans for international expansion. Naito explains why scaling Credor is difficult, emphasizing that the brand’s ultra-premium work depends on highly specialized skills that take years to develop. The discussion also covers Grand Seiko’s dramatic international growth—driven especially by the U.S.—and teases upcoming developments like a compact, ultra-accurate dive watch and continued focus on the 9F quartz platform. The episode closes with analysis of notable spring 2026 auction results, highlighting strong performances from brands like Journe and Patek Philippe and record-setting outcomes in Hong Kong.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2025 Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary 39 Yellow Gold / Gold/Brown / Strap - Limited to 20 Pieces (161992-0001) - did not meet its reserve but is available for sale for $27,690. - Buy it now]
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary” 37 Steel / Purple / Bracelet
Auction Report: The Purple Reign of the Royal Oak Tourbillon
There are Royal Oaks, there are complicated Royal Oaks, and then there are the watches that make otherwise rational collectors suddenly begin calculating what organs they can live without. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary” in steel with the purple dial squarely falls into the third category.
Reference 26660ST.OO.1356ST.01 arrived as part of the brand’s 50th anniversary celebration of the Royal Oak in 2022, a year that effectively turned the entire luxury watch industry into one long waiting list. While collectors expected commemorative pieces, Audemars Piguet delivered something more dangerous: a highly wearable, ultra-thin flying tourbillon Royal Oak in stainless steel with a smoked purple dial that somehow managed to feel both restrained and wildly unnecessary at the same time. Naturally, that made everyone want one immediately.
At 37mm, this watch occupies a fascinating niche in modern collecting. Most complicated sports watches today continue their inflationary march toward wrist-mounted dinner plates, but this piece channels the proportions of earlier Royal Oaks while hiding a remarkably sophisticated movement inside. The AP Caliber 2968 is one of the stars of the show here, featuring the brand’s flying tourbillon architecture in an impressively thin automatic package. The movement itself represented an evolution for the manufacture, designed to fit elegantly within the slimmer Royal Oak case profile while still giving collectors the visual theater they expect from a tourbillon.
And yes, the flying tourbillon absolutely dominates the visual experience. Sitting at six o’clock beneath that rich purple Petite Tapisserie dial, it creates exactly the sort of hypnotic mechanical animation that makes people stop mid-conversation at dinner. It is also one of those rare watches where the purple dial actually works in person. Many brands try purple and end up with something resembling melted grape candy. Audemars Piguet instead delivered a dial with shifting tones that move from plum to black depending on the light, adding just enough drama without turning the watch into cosplay.
The “50th Anniversary” designation matters more than simple marketing here. Watches from this celebratory production period included commemorative rotor engravings and have increasingly become viewed by collectors as an important transitional moment for the modern Royal Oak line. The anniversary hype was admittedly exhausting at times, but it also cemented 2022 as one of the defining years in the history of the Royal Oak. For collectors who believe provenance and era matter, these watches sit in a very desirable sweet spot.
Condition on this example appears solid overall, with the expected light scratches on the case, bezel, bracelet, and clasp that inevitably occur the moment someone actually attempts to enjoy a Royal Oak in the real world. The dial, hands, and crystal remain in excellent condition, and the inclusion of the box, papers, and product literature helps preserve the all-important completeness factor that buyers in this segment increasingly demand. Nobody spending this kind of money wants to hear the phrase “papers misplaced during move.”
From a market perspective, these watches have remained exceptionally strong despite broader softening across portions of the secondary luxury watch market. Ultra-thin complicated Royal Oaks in steel continue to occupy an elite tier of demand, particularly when paired with more unusual dial configurations. The purple dial variant has developed a following precisely because it feels slightly more daring than the standard blue while still remaining unmistakably Royal Oak. Depending on condition and completeness, recent market values for examples like this have generally traded comfortably above original retail, often landing in the range where even seasoned collectors begin pretending they are “investing.”
What makes this watch especially interesting today is the timing. The industry is currently obsessed with oversized statements, collaborations, and increasingly cartoonish luxury flexing. Yet here sits a relatively restrained 37mm steel Royal Oak with a flying tourbillon quietly reminding everyone that genuine watchmaking credibility still matters. Of course, it also costs approximately the same as a luxury SUV, so let us not pretend this is entirely an exercise in humble sophistication.
The auction for this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary” concludes at 9:00 pm EDT on Thursday, May 14, 2026. Expect aggressive interest from collectors who missed the original allocation window and from those still convinced purple is the new blue in high-end watch collecting. For one lucky bidder, this may become the world’s most elegant way to tell time while worrying about future insurance premiums.
Current bid: $13,775