BuyingTime Daily - May 13, 2026
Swatch x AP pocket-watch mania erupts, Rolex prices rebound, Breitling cuts jobs, and Ming, Urwerk, Piaget and Seiko steal the spotlight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
“Royal Pop” may have started life as a quirky collaboration idea, but by the end of the day the Swatch x Audemars Piguet pocket-watch launch had turned into full-blown collector mania. Social feeds were flooded with wrist shots of watches that technically are not wristwatches, lines formed outside select stores, and suddenly grown adults were debating the merits of wearing a bioceramic pocket watch on a lanyard like a VIP backstage credential. In a hobby that often takes itself far too seriously, the eight-version “Royal Pop” collection somehow managed to feel playful, disruptive, collectible and oddly self-aware all at once. The manually wound SISTEM51-powered pieces, priced around the $400 range, are already shaping up to be one of the year’s most polarizing and talked-about releases. Somewhere in Switzerland, traditionalists are probably clutching their vintage perpetual calendars while younger collectors are figuring out which colorway best matches their sneakers.
The collaboration also arrives during an interesting week for the broader Swatch Group, where activist investor Steven Wood once again failed to secure a board seat despite continued criticism over governance and profitability. Even with pressure mounting from weaker financial performance and falling operating profit, Swatch leadership appears committed to maintaining long-term production capacity while betting on a stronger 2026. Meanwhile, Breitling is reportedly trimming jobs as global sales slid 11%, another sign that the luxury watch industry is still navigating the uneven aftershocks of inflation, currency pressure and the post-boom market reset. Yet at the same time, the secondary market is showing fresh signs of life, particularly for Rolex, where prices have begun inching upward again as certified pre-owned programs continue to mature and bring a bit more confidence back into the market.
One of today’s best feature reads revisited the fate of NASA-issued Omega Speedmasters, tracing how many of the roughly 100 astronaut-issued watches eventually ended up in museums, private hands, or, in some unfortunate cases, stolen and still missing. The story reinforces why the Speedmaster remains one of the few watches whose mythology genuinely earns the hype. Elsewhere, the spring auction season continued proving that collectors still have very deep pockets for the right independents, with huge results for names like Akrivia, Roger Smith, Philippe Dufour, Greubel Forsey, and F.P. Journe, while important pocket watches quietly reminded everyone that mechanical history still commands extraordinary money when provenance and rarity align.
New releases today leaned heavily into personality. Marathon celebrated America’s 250th anniversary with a patriotic limited-edition Pilot’s Navigator priced, naturally, at $1,776. Ming continued its science-experiment approach to watch design with the mesmerizing 29.06 “Peep Show,” whose polarized sapphire dial seems to transform depending on viewing angle. Piaget embraced full pop-art energy with two bold Andy Warhol hardstone-dial models, while Rado delivered a more practical crowd-pleaser in the navy-blue Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph. Urwerk closed out its UR-10 line with the Spacemeter Blue final edition, which looks less like a watch and more like something salvaged from an interplanetary navigation console. Meanwhile, ZRC doubled down on hardcore dive-watch engineering with new titanium Grands Fonds MN64 models rated to a staggering 3,000 meters, which should comfortably survive almost anything except maybe an airline baggage handler.
On the review side, Angelus revived its unusual 1958 “Tinkler” quarter repeater concept in a wonderfully restrained dress watch that proves not every complicated watch needs to look like a spaceship dashboard. Filippo Loreti continued democratizing mechanical theater with the Celestial Tourbillon, giving enthusiasts a taste of rotating escapement drama without requiring the sale of a kidney. Seiko refreshed its Astron GPS Solar chronograph lineup with cleaner ergonomics and improved usability, while the Stewart Dawson SD 911 Black leaned unapologetically into Porsche-inspired instrumentation aesthetics for enthusiasts who apparently want their wrist to resemble a sports-car tachometer.
Collectors looking for perspective may have appreciated today’s “Stop Buying So Many Cheap Dive Watches” editorial, which gently argued that endlessly accumulating affordable divers can eventually feel less like collecting and more like accidentally becoming your own gray-market dealer. It was one of the more self-aware pieces to hit watch media lately and probably struck a nerve with anyone currently storing twelve nearly identical black-dial divers in a sock drawer.
Event coverage also stayed busy, with London Watch Week preparing a significantly expanded June footprint across the city and the Vancouver Timepiece Show continuing its rise as one of the more relaxed, enthusiast-friendly gatherings on the growing North American watch calendar. The atmosphere increasingly feels less corporate trade show and more community meetup, which may actually be healthier for the hobby long term.
In video viewing, Rolex celebrated a century of the Oyster case with a polished retrospective film reminding everyone that waterproof watches were once a genuinely revolutionary concept rather than just something every smartwatch owner now expects by default. Over at Deployant, Czapek CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel discussed the brand’s evolving direction and 2026 novelties, offering a useful look at how independents are balancing growth without losing identity.
Finally, in BuyingTime at Auction, Tuesday’s purple-enamel H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds failed to meet reserve despite bidding reaching $19,805, proving once again that independent-watch buyers remain selective even when the watches are objectively excellent. Today’s featured lot, however, is considerably rarer: the 20-piece Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary in yellow gold. It remains one of the stealthiest haute horlogerie offerings on the market right now, blending discreet design with serious movement credentials. With bidding still sitting at just $15,250 ahead of today’s 4:35 p.m. EDT close, it currently looks less like a market frenzy and more like an opportunity waiting for the right collector to wake up.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
The Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Collaboration Is Here, And It’s Not A Wristwatch
Swatch and Audemars Piguet have officially launched “Royal Pop,” an unexpected pocket-watch collaboration offered in eight variants across two case styles. The watches use bright bioceramic cases inspired by Royal Oak design cues, paired with a manually wound SISTEM 51 movement and an extended power reserve. The concept leans into portability and display versatility, with options to carry, wear on a lanyard, or use as a small desk clock. Priced around $400–$420 and releasing through select Swatch stores with purchase limits, the collaboration also channels proceeds toward a watchmaking preservation initiative.
Activist investor fails again to join Swatch Group board
GreenWood Investors’ Steven Wood failed for a second year to win a Swatch Group board seat, losing heavily to Andreas Rickenbacher, who received overwhelming shareholder support. Wood argues that the Hayek family’s control and fragmented minority ownership reduce accountability, while Swatch maintains minorities are already represented on the board. The article also points to weakening 2025 performance, with turnover slightly down and operating profit falling sharply year over year. Despite a steep drop in net profit, Swatch kept production capacity intact and is projecting improved sales and profitability in 2026 as conditions normalize.
Breitling reportedly trims jobs as global sales drop 11%
Breitling is facing a meaningful slowdown, with global sales down 11% and profit also declining, pressured by currency strength, higher costs, and inflation. In response, the company has cut about 50 roles across corporate functions while using Switzerland’s short-time work programs to limit broader layoffs. The piece also highlights a sharp drop in the UK market, where revenue and operating profit both fell year over year. Recent leadership changes are framed as part of a strategy to strengthen U.S. momentum and expand the broader group’s brand portfolio.
Rolex prices rise again on secondary market
The secondary market for luxury watches is showing early signs of recovery, led by a modest uptick in pre-owned Rolex pricing and small gains across other major brands. Analysts note that most tracked brands have moved back into positive territory, suggesting stabilization after the post-2022 correction. Certified pre-owned programs are becoming a major force in this rebound, with Rolex’s CPO initiative now representing a meaningful share of transactions. The story emphasizes how buyers are increasingly choosing between discounted secondary listings and higher-confidence certified offerings, depending on priorities like price and service.
Feature Time
Here’s What Happened To The NASA-Issued Speedmasters!
NASA issued Omega Speedmaster chronographs to astronauts from the mid-1960s through the 1970s, beginning with 97 watches and later adding a few more to reach 100 total pieces. The majority were flown on missions, and many were later transferred to the National Air & Space Museum for long-term custody, display, and institutional loans. Over time, several loaned examples were stolen and remain missing, while others have been tracked and documented by researchers piecing together individual provenance. The article also notes how certain watches were kept for testing or modified for specific mission requirements, underscoring the Speedmaster’s role as a functional tool in spaceflight history.
The Latest Time
Marathon Watch Company
Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator
Marathon is marking America’s 250th anniversary with a 41mm limited-edition Pilot’s Navigator built around patriotic details, including a “1776” stamp surrounded by stars and other anthem/flag-inspired cues. The watch uses an anthracite stainless-steel case, includes tritium (including a red tube highlight), and keeps the brand’s MIL-SPEC/tool-watch DNA tied to its long relationship with the U.S. military. Only 250 pieces will be made, reinforcing the collectible angle alongside the heritage story. Price is $1,776.
Ming
The Ming 29.06 Peep Show and its Ever-Changing Face
Ming’s 29.06 “Peep Show” continues the brand’s fascination with light and transparency, using polarized sapphire elements that make the dial appear to shift and “reveal” itself as the discs rotate. It comes in a 40mm grade-5 titanium case with a sleek, bezel-less profile and is powered by the automatic ASE 200.M1 (with a tungsten micro-rotor) offering about 86 hours of power reserve. The watch is limited to 50 pieces and leans hard into experiential, angle-dependent dial effects rather than traditional decoration alone. Price is about $28,187 (converted from CHF 22,000 at ~1 CHF = $1.281).
Piaget
Everybody Must Get Stoned: Piaget Goes Hard with Two New Andy Warhol Models
Piaget introduces two new Andy Warhol models featuring hardstone dials, leaning into bold material choices as the defining design statement. Both are presented in 18k rose gold with a large 45mm profile and use Piaget’s in-house automatic 501P1 movement. The release frames these as a continuation of Piaget’s pop-culture connection to Warhol while emphasizing the brand’s long-running reputation for jewelry-like experimentation in watch dials. Pricing isn’t included in the database entry.
Rado
The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in Navy Blue
Rado’s new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph pairs vintage-leaning dive aesthetics with a modern 43mm monobloc high-tech ceramic case and 300 meters of water resistance. It runs on the automatic caliber R801 (ETA A31-based) with a Nivachron hairspring and a 59-hour power reserve, adding contemporary durability and anti-magnetic performance to the package. The navy-blue and rose-gold-tone accents aim for a more upscale, maritime look while retaining the Captain Cook identity cues. Price is about $7,638 (converted from EUR 6,500 at ~1 EUR = $1.175).
Urwerk
The Final Edition Of The Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue
Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter Blue closes out the line with a final edition limited to 25 pieces, built around the brand’s signature sci-fi industrial design language. The watch layers conventional time display with distance/astronomical-style counters that track aspects of Earth’s motion, underscoring Urwerk’s “cosmic timekeeping” concept. Inside is the in-house UR-10.01 with Urwerk’s turbine system, delivering a 43-hour power reserve and high-frequency operation. Price is about $89,670 (converted from CHF 70,000 at ~1 CHF = $1.281).
ZRC
The New ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 Titanium Editions
ZRC’s Grands Fonds MN64 Titanium editions modernize the brand’s deep-diving lineage with a 41.5mm grade-5 titanium case, a crown at 6 o’clock, and engineering aimed at extreme depth performance. The watches are rated to 3,000 meters and use a Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with a stated 56-hour power reserve and tight accuracy targets. Two variants are offered—one on a titanium bracelet and one on a rubber strap—positioned as serious tool watches with updated materials and usability. Price is about $5,880 (CHF 4,590) for the full-titanium version and about $5,111 (CHF 3,990) for the rubber-strap variant (converted at ~1 CHF = $1.281).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Angelus
Angelus Tinkler 1958—The Quarter Repeater Makes a Comeback
Angelus revives the rare 1958 “Tinkler” concept with a modern quarter-repeater that chimes one strike per hour and a double strike for each quarter. The reissue keeps a vintage-leaning 38mm case and a domed white sunburst dial with distinctive quarter markers, while using the in-house A600 caliber with a 70-hour power reserve and high-end finishing. Produced in very small numbers across yellow gold and stainless steel, it’s positioned as a faithful heritage return for an obscure but historically notable acoustic complication. The design is intentionally understated and dress-forward, with modest 30m water resistance that reinforces its formal intent.
Atelier Loreti
Filippo Loreti Atelier Loreti Celestial Tourbillon Review: Redefining A Once Haute Complication
The Celestial Tourbillon is framed as an accessible way to experience a tourbillon-style display without traditional haute-horology pricing. It uses a modified Miyota 8215 base movement and puts the rotating mechanism on display at 6 o’clock, paired with a 42mm steel case (including gold-tone PVD options) and 100m water resistance. The review emphasizes how the tourbillon has shifted from exclusivity to enthusiast appeal—more about mechanical animation and interest than pure status. It also notes tradeoffs in design and proportions, but positions the watch as compelling value for someone who wants the tourbillon look and feel at an entry-level price point.
Seiko
Hands-On With The New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs HAB001, HAB002, HAB003, And Limited HAB004
Seiko updates its Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph line with a redesigned titanium case and a clearer dial layout that relocates sub-dials to 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for better legibility. The new in-house caliber 5X63 brings automatic time-zone adjustment, a 24-hour chronograph totalizer, and strong everyday accuracy, reinforcing the Astron’s tech-forward identity. The lineup includes multiple dial/strap configurations, with a limited edition distinguished by lighter coloring and added quick-change versatility. Overall, the emphasis is on improved ergonomics and readability while keeping the “always-correct time” GPS Solar proposition central.
Stewart Dawson
Hands-On With The Stewart Dawson SD 911 Black
The SD 911 Black is an automotive-inspired piece that directly references the Porsche 911’s classic gauge design, translating that dashboard look into a high-contrast black dial with bold numerals and red accents. Its 42.5mm stainless-steel case is built for daily wear with 100m water resistance, and the design extends to a leather strap styled to echo performance-car interior details. Inside is a Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve, prioritizing proven reliability over novelty. The review frames it as a well-executed homage aimed at both watch enthusiasts and Porsche fans, while noting that a smaller size could broaden its appeal.
Comparing Time
Stop Buying So Many Cheap Dive Watches: 6 Tested Divers That Explain Why
This piece looks at how easy it is to keep adding low-cost dive watches to a collection, since each purchase feels like a small, reasonable decision. It argues that while many budget divers deliver solid value and real capability, repeatedly buying them can leave you with volume instead of a more satisfying, intentional collection. The article suggests using those affordable watches as a learning tool—pay attention to what you actually like (wearing comfort, bezel action, dial design, practicality) and let that guide fewer, better choices. The goal is to shift from accumulating “good deals” to building a collection that’s clearer in purpose and more enjoyable long term.
Event Time
London Watch Week to expand across capital as collectors and major maisons converge for June edition
London Watch Week is set to broaden its city-wide footprint in June 2026, spreading activations across Mayfair, Savile Row, and other key destinations. The program is designed to feel more like an immersive collector experience than a conventional trade show, mixing high-complication showcases, independent-maker events, and brand-led gatherings. Organizers are aiming to blend heritage maisons with emerging independents, giving attendees more opportunities for hands-on discovery and direct conversation. The long-term goal is to cement London as a recurring stop on the global watch calendar as participation and recognition grow over the next several years.
Photo Report: Watch Spotting And Highlights From The Vancouver Timepiece Show
The Vancouver Timepiece Show returned for its second edition with a lively, enthusiast-driven atmosphere and roughly 3,000 attendees—up about 20% year over year. Hosted at the Shipyards in North Vancouver, it showcased a wide range of brands and styles, from colorful independents to more experimental designs and materials. The report highlights the appeal of seeing everything from vintage favorites to fresh releases in one place, including limited collaborations and strong value-oriented pieces. Overall, the event underscores Vancouver’s growing reputation for casual, collector-first watch culture alongside an expanding Canadian show circuit.
Deal Time
Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season
The spring 2026 auction season produced standout results, with major houses setting new highs for both independent watchmakers and significant pocket watches. A stainless-steel Akrivia AK-06 reportedly sold for $3.8 million, alongside big outcomes for names like Rexhep Rexhepi, Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith—signals of sustained demand for rare indie production. Pocket watches also surged, including a Louis Richard Triple Detent Constant Force chronometer that reached just under CHF 4 million (about $5.1 million). At the very top, blue-chip lots still led the market, with Patek Philippe’s reference 2523 hitting $10 million and an F.P. Journe “Souscription No. 18” setting a record at CHF 4.88 million, reinforcing how the biggest money is concentrating around exceptional complications and provenance.
Watching Time - Videos
Oyster Story – Celebrating 100 Years of an Icon - YouTube - ROLEX
Rolex’s “Oyster Story” film marks 100 years of the Oyster—its first waterproof wristwatch—and traces how that breakthrough helped define modern watchmaking expectations. It follows the Oyster from early demonstrations of durability and real-world usefulness through the evolution of the concept into Rolex’s best-known models. The video positions the Oyster case as the foundation for a century of technical refinement and brand identity, connecting heritage moments to the present-day product line.
Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek talks to us about Czapek and the 2026 novelties. - YouTube - Deployant.com
Deployant.com sits down with Xavier de Roquemaurel to discuss how Czapek has evolved over the last decade and what the brand is emphasizing in its 2026 lineup. He explains how Czapek is revisiting core pillars—especially the Antarctique collection—while adjusting design details and overall product direction. The conversation also points viewers toward related coverage, including the Time Jumper anniversary context and broader 2026 releases, framing the novelties as both a refresh and a continuation of the brand’s recent momentum.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2025 H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept 40 Steel / Purple Enamel / Strap (1201.1200) - was bid to $19,805 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary 39 Yellow Gold / Gold/Brown / Strap - Limited to 20 Pieces (161992-0001)
Auction Report: Chopard’s 20-Piece L.U.C Qualité Fleurier Anniversary Watch Brings Quiet Gold to the Block
The 2025 Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is not the sort of watch that screams for attention, which is exactly why serious collectors tend to notice it. Limited to just 20 pieces, reference 161992-0001 celebrates two decades of Chopard’s Qualité Fleurier program, one of the more demanding quality standards in Swiss watchmaking and a reminder that Chopard’s L.U.C division remains a legitimate haute horlogerie player, not merely the watchmaking sidecar to a jewelry empire.
This example is cased in 39 mm ethical 18-karat yellow gold with a warm golden sector-style dial, brown strap and the automatic L.U.C 96.09-L movement. That caliber is a major part of the story: a thin micro-rotor automatic with Chopard’s Twin technology, two stacked barrels and roughly 65 hours of power reserve. It is also COSC-certified and Fleurier Quality Foundation certified, which gives the watch more technical backbone than its elegant, mid-century-inspired face might initially suggest.
Condition appears strong, with the dial, hands and crystal listed as excellent, and only minor signs of wear to the case, bezel and strap. The presence of both box and papers matters here, especially because the production run was so small. With a watch limited to 20 pieces, completeness is not a nice extra; it is part of the collectability.
Chopard priced the watch around $36,600 at retail, and current secondary-market asking prices appear to cluster roughly from the high-$20,000s into the mid-$30,000s. At auction, the smart-money zone is probably somewhere around $26,000 to $32,000, depending on bidder enthusiasm. Anything meaningfully below that would look attractive for a full-set example. Anything above retail would require two collectors deciding that 20 pieces really means 20 pieces, which, to be fair, it does.
The auction ends today at 4:35 p.m. EDT (May 13, 2026), and this is one of those lots where the appeal is not hype but substance. It is gold, discreet, beautifully made, properly certified and scarce enough that you will not see another one every Tuesday. For collectors who understand what L.U.C represents inside Chopard, this is a serious anniversary watch hiding in very elegant clothing.
Current bid: $15,250