BuyingTime Daily - March 9, 2026
Why people still wear watches, a Swatch–Morgan Stanley clash, new releases from Omega, Moser, and Unimatic, plus a gold Rolex “Smurf” diving through today’s auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — March 9, 2026
In a world where the smartphone has become the universal timekeeper, today’s watch conversation begins with a simple psychological observation: people who still wear wristwatches may not be clinging to the past—they may simply be better at protecting their attention. One of the more interesting reads circulating today argues that checking the time on a phone rarely stops at the time itself. It becomes a gateway to notifications, scrolling, and distraction. A mechanical or quartz watch, by contrast, offers a clean transaction with time: glance, register, move on. In a productivity-obsessed era, that small behavioral boundary might explain why watches—especially well-made ones—continue to resonate with people who value focus and intentional living.
Meanwhile, the industry itself continues to debate how it measures its own health. The recent disagreement between Swatch Group and Morgan Stanley over the bank’s annual watch-industry report highlights the challenges of analyzing a notoriously opaque market. When a single report attempts to rank brand performance based largely on estimates, tensions are inevitable. Swatch Group pushed back publicly on several of the report’s assumptions, reminding observers that in an industry where sales numbers are rarely disclosed, even widely circulated rankings should be viewed with a healthy degree of skepticism.
One of today’s more enjoyable historical pieces looks back at Timex, the quintessential American watch brand whose roots stretch back to 1854 when it began life as the Waterbury Clock Company. Over the decades Timex became synonymous with durable, affordable timekeeping, from mid-century advertising campaigns promising watches that could “take a licking and keep on ticking,” to the Indiglo illumination breakthrough and the Ironman Triathlon models that defined the sports-watch boom of the 1980s and 1990s. The brand’s staying power illustrates an important truth: not every watch needs to be haute horology to matter culturally.
That said, haute horology certainly had its moment today as well. Independent watchmaker Krayon continues to explore poetic calendar complications with the rose-gold Anyday, a refined 39mm piece that transforms the humble calendar into an elegant mechanical planner on the wrist. The watch’s unusual display architecture and in-house movement underscore how smaller independent brands can often approach everyday functions with fresh creativity.
Another important theme circulating today is serviceability. One article makes the practical argument that a watch’s long-term value depends not just on its durability but on the ecosystem that exists to maintain it. Brands like Rolex benefit from enormous global service networks, while companies such as IWC have built restoration capabilities capable of supporting watches that are more than a century old. For collectors hoping their watch will outlive them, access to parts and skilled watchmakers may matter as much as the original purchase price.
Guides and explainers also filled the day’s reading list, including a breakdown of classic watch categories—field watches, pilot watches, and sports watches—many of which trace their design language back to military requirements such as the famous WWII “Dirty Dozen” field watches. Another timely piece tied to International Women’s Day highlighted the growing number of female watchmakers, founders, and executives shaping the industry today, building on a tradition that stretches all the way back to the early 19th century when Breguet created what is widely considered the first wristwatch for Caroline Murat.
As for actual new watches hitting the market, today delivered an eclectic mix. De Rijke & Co. unveiled three ceramic Amalfi Special Editions featuring Champlevé enamel artwork depicting classic cars such as the Land Rover Defender and Porsche 911, each limited to just 50 pieces and powered by a Sellita SW-300 automatic movement. At the higher end of the spectrum, H. Moser & Cie. continues its introduction of the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton in red gold, showcasing the brand’s distinctive anthracite-finished movement architecture and dual balance springs in a dramatic openworked layout.
For collectors who prefer more accessible territory, Isotope released the Moonshot Chronograph Thunderclap with telemeter scale and bold storm-themed colors, while Raymond Weil refreshed its dressy Toccata Heritage line with a vivid red sunray dial housed in a slim rose-gold PVD case. Omega also joined the news cycle with a special Seamaster Diver 300M honoring the currently running Milano Cortina 2026 Paralympic Winter Games, pairing a winter-inspired white-ceramic aesthetic with the brand’s Master Chronometer caliber 8806.
Further down the price ladder, Seiko enthusiasts revisited the gold-tone SNA414 “Flightmaster,” a quirky but capable chronograph variant powered by the 7T62 quartz movement. Meanwhile, Italian tool-watch brand Unimatic collaborated with Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury on the Modello Cinque UT5-TANC, a compact 36mm field watch designed around vintage military cues and built to MIL-STD durability standards.
Hands-on reviews today included a closer look at the Biver Automatique Micro-Rotor collection, where the fine finishing and understated dial materials reveal themselves slowly rather than shouting for attention. Another review explored the Guinand HS109 skin diver, a limited tribute to Helmut Sinn’s 1960s dive-watch designs, while Panerai’s Radiomir Quaranta continued to make the case that sometimes the most restrained version of a watch is also the most wearable.
Collectors also had plenty to chew on in the comparison and buying-guide category. Several writers highlighted overlooked dive watches from brands like Glycine, Certina, Mido, and Longines, arguing that many excellent divers live in the shadow of the usual icons. Elsewhere, a guide to rectangular watches ranged from utilitarian classics like the Casio G-Shock DW5600 to high-design pieces from Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Richard Mille, illustrating how dramatically case shapes can influence a watch’s personality. A curated vintage selection also caught attention with pieces from Audemars Piguet and Girard-Perregaux, proving that the hunt for unusual watches remains as vibrant as ever.
Looking ahead, anticipation for Watches & Wonders 2026 continues to build, with wishlist speculation calling for potential updates from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, Credor, and Tudor—including everything from new dial treatments to possible anniversary chronographs.
An opinion piece today also reminds readers that resale prices do not tell the whole story when evaluating a brand’s health. Used-market charts can be useful signals, but they capture only one slice of a far larger ecosystem involving retail sales, brand perception, and long-term product development.
The video lineup today was equally packed. Predictions for 2026 from channels like Unpolished and IDGuy explored what Rolex, Omega, and Tudor might have in store, while Time+Tide staged a lively three-watch showdown involving the Rolex Land-Dweller. Other videos explored the evolution of independent brand MING, the mechanics of servicing an Omega, and even the historical appeal of the Waltham A-17 military watch. For those wanting rapid updates, ONE Watches also delivered a quick rundown of eight of the hottest new releases currently generating buzz.
Finally, over at BuyingTime at Auction, Friday’s Breguet Marine Chronograph in white gold reached $17,600 but failed to meet its reserve—meaning someone may still be able to negotiate a deal. Today’s featured auction piece is the 2019 Rolex Submariner Date “Smurf,” the white-gold diver whose blue dial and ceramic bezel make it one of the more distinctive modern Submariners ever produced. With the auction closing at 12:30 pm today, the current bid sits at $34,755—still well below typical dealer pricing for the model and a reminder that sometimes the best way to acquire a gold dive watch is simply to wait for the right moment.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Psychology says the people who still wear a wristwatch in a world of smartphones aren’t behind — they have a specific relationship with time and intention that most people quietly abandoned without realizing what they gave up
In a smartphone-first world, the piece argues that checking the time on a phone often turns into an unintended distraction spiral driven by notifications and endless scrolling. By contrast, a wristwatch offers a single-purpose, interruption-free time check that can reinforce focus and follow-through. It also frames watch-wearing as a boundary-setting behavior—separating “knowing the time” from “entering the digital world”—and suggests that intentional rituals and single-purpose tools can reduce decision fatigue and improve daily productivity.
Subprime Reporting? Thoughts On The Recent Morgan Stanley/Swatch Group Controversy
Morgan Stanley’s annual Swiss watch industry report sparked a public dispute after Swatch Group challenged the report’s methodology and estimated turnover figures. Swatch argued that some brand numbers were materially inaccurate, raising concerns about how much the market should rely on analyst estimates presented as rankings. The controversy highlights the importance of transparency about assumptions and data sources, especially when reports influence consumer and retailer perceptions. It also prompts a broader conversation about media and analyst responsibility in an industry already facing significant headwinds.
Feature Time
A History and Guide to Timex Watches
The piece traces Timex’s roots back to 1854 as the Waterbury Clock Company and follows its evolution from clocks and pocket watches into wristwatches, especially as World War I helped cement the wristwatch’s place in everyday life. It highlights the brand’s mid-century reinvention—adopting the Timex name in the 1950s and leaning into affordable, durable watches made with new manufacturing approaches. Over the decades, Timex is positioned as a resilient American mainstay that kept pace with shifting competition by staying practical and accessible. The summary also underscores how later hits like Indiglo and the Ironman Triathlon line reinforced Timex’s reputation for reliability while helping the brand remain relevant to both casual buyers and collectors.
Krayon’s rose-gold Anyday turns the humble calendar into high horology
Krayon’s Anyday in rose gold is presented as a modern high-horology take on the everyday calendar, pairing a slim 39mm case with an inventive in-house movement built around clear monthly-date legibility. Founder Rémi Maillat emphasizes the idea of delivering essential information on-wrist—without defaulting to a smartphone—while elevating the calendar into something artistic and mechanical. The design is described as understated and elegant, using a clean dial layout and a dual-hand display that functions like a practical workweek planner. The article frames Krayon’s small-scale independence and engineering-meets-handcraft approach as what helps it stand out in a crowded landscape.
Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch?
The article argues that long-term serviceability is as important as durability when buying a mechanical watch, because a watch’s lifespan depends on parts availability, brand support, and access to skilled watchmakers. It contrasts the relative ease of servicing a vintage Rolex—supported by a broad ecosystem—with the uncertainty that can come with brands that lack robust infrastructure. The piece highlights how some manufacturers, like IWC, maintain restoration capabilities that extend back more than a century, signaling commitment to keeping older watches functional. Ultimately, it positions service support as a key factor in whether a watch becomes a lasting heirloom or a difficult-to-maintain mechanical relic.
The ABCs of Time: The Most Populard Watch Styles Explained
This overview breaks down major mechanical watch styles by purpose and design language, starting with field watches that prioritize toughness and legibility and tracing their lineage to military requirements. It uses the WWII-era “Dirty Dozen” as a defining example—highlighting the specific design cues that have made those watches highly collectible today. The article also touches on categories like pilot’s watches and broader sports watches, noting how functionality (like water resistance and rugged construction) shaped what became modern benchmarks. It closes by acknowledging that categories often overlap—sports and luxury can blur—yet each style still reflects an underlying intent and philosophy.
The best female-led watch brands
Framed around International Women’s Day, the piece spotlights female-led brands and leaders who are actively reshaping modern horology, while grounding the theme in history with early milestones like the first wristwatch made for Caroline Murat in 1810. It emphasizes how women have expanded their influence beyond being consumers to becoming recognized experts, designers, and founders within the industry. The article highlights a range of figures—from highly credentialed watchmakers to entrepreneurs—who are pushing innovation and advocating for broader representation. Overall, it presents their work as both proof of progress and a call to continue building a more equitable watchmaking landscape.
The Latest Time
De Rijke Watches & Co
De Rijke & Co. Launches Three Special Edition Amalfi Designs In Ceramic
De Rijke & Co. introduced a limited trio of Amalfi Special Edition watches created with artist Guy Allen, pairing automotive-inspired artwork with a distinctive ceramic case made for practical use behind the wheel. Each model features a Champlevé enamel dial on a solid silver base depicting an iconic car (Land Rover Defender, Porsche 911, or Lancia Stratos) and is powered by a high-grade Sellita SW-300 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The 38.2mm watches are limited to 50 pieces per design and come on a rubber strap with a custom buckle. Pricing is €4,595 (about $5,340).
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton Watch
H. Moser & Cie.’s Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton blends dramatic openworking with a tourbillon, using an anthracite-grey finished HMC 814 caliber to give the skeletonized architecture a more modern look. The watch is housed in a 40mm 5N red-gold case that stays elegant on the wrist thanks to its sub-11mm thickness, while details like the intricate caseback and refined finishing emphasize its high-horology focus. The movement’s technical appeal is reinforced by its use of two flat balance springs, adding both performance interest and collector intrigue. The price is 85,400 CHF (about $110,750).
Isotope
Isotope Introduce Moonshot Chronograph Thunderclap with Telemeter
Isotope’s Moonshot Chronograph Thunderclap adds a telemeter scale to the brand’s signature chronograph format, letting wearers measure distance based on the time between seeing an event (like lightning) and hearing it (thunder). The look is intentionally bold—storm-grey tones with ultraviolet/purple accents—developed with designer Matt Smith-Johnson (Teenage.Grandpa), and the watch is limited to 30 pieces. Buyers can choose between two movement options (ETA Valjoux 7753 or Landeron 73), with pricing varying by strap/bracelet configuration. The price is £2,400 (about $3,210) on rubber, or £2,720 (about $3,630) on bracelet.
Omega
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paralympic Winter Games Milano Cortina 2026
Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M Milano Cortina 2026 edition celebrates the brand’s role as Official Timekeeper for the Paralympic Winter Games with a crisp white-ceramic and titanium “winter” aesthetic. While it keeps the core Diver 300M specs, it adds event-specific design touches like a frosted pattern dial inspired by the Milano Cortina emblem and a colorful gradient seconds hand. Inside is Omega’s Master Chronometer calibre 8806, built for precision, durability, and strong anti-magnetic performance with a 55-hour power reserve. Pricing is CHF 8,200 (about $10,630) excluding VAT, or €10,400 (about $12,080) including VAT.
Raymond Weil
A New Red Dial for the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage
Raymond Weil refreshed the Toccata Heritage with a vivid red “grape” sunray dial paired with a rose-gold PVD-coated elliptical case designed to feel dressy but more visually assertive. Despite the bolder color, the watch stays slim and elegant, powered by a thin hand-wound movement based on the Sellita SW210-1 with a 45-hour power reserve. Buyers can choose either a black leather strap or a matching rose-gold PVD bracelet, giving two distinct looks from the same design. Pricing is €1,750 (about $2,030) on leather or €1,850 (about $2,150) on bracelet.
Seiko
The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic
The Seiko SNA414 “Gold Flightmaster” is positioned as an under-the-radar variant in the Flightmaster family, notable for its gold-tone treatment and the more robust 7T62 quartz movement. The update brings practical gains like improved chronograph capability while keeping the tool-watch character intact, including a 42mm case and 200m water resistance. The article also flags trade-offs—like mineral crystal instead of sapphire and the difficulty of sourcing bands due to the 21mm lug width—making condition and completeness important for buyers. Typical used-market pricing is about $150–$250.
Unimatic
Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury
Unimatic’s Modello Cinque UT5-TANC collaboration with Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury leans into vintage military cues, offered in two compact 36mm steel variants with distinct color treatments. The watches emphasize rugged practicality, using a Seiko VH31A quartz movement and a case built to MIL-STD-810H durability standards, paired with a nylon strap that reinforces the utilitarian feel. Design details like Arabic numerals, orange accents, and a standout lumed seconds hand keep the look characterful without straying from the field-watch theme. Each version is limited to 150 numbered pieces at €660 (about $770).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Biver
Biver Automatique Micro-Rotor Watches Hands-On: Passion In The Details
The Biver Automatique Micro-Rotor line is presented as understated luxury that rewards close inspection, with much of its appeal living in meticulous finishing and details like natural stone dials and precisely crafted hands. The review notes that while Jean-Claude Biver’s legacy brings credibility, the brand’s storytelling and marketing haven’t clearly communicated what makes these pieces special, which can cause them to be overlooked at first glance. Inside is the JCB-003-A caliber (developed with Dubois-Depraz), running at 3.5Hz and featuring a zero-reset mechanism for more precise time setting. The collection is positioned as competitively priced within high-end watchmaking, with pricing spanning a wide range depending on configuration.
Guinand
Guinand HS109 Watch Review: A Funky And Unexpected 1960s Skin Diver Tribute To Helmut Sinn
Guinand’s HS109 is a limited-edition skin diver tribute that channels the playful, funky design language of Helmut Sinn’s 1960s-era dive watches while pairing it with a tougher, more modern case concept. The watch uses a stainless-steel case just under 41mm and mixes vintage cues—oversized markers, retro hands, and a classic diver layout—with contemporary legibility via Super-LumiNova C3. Power comes from an ETA 2824-2, and the package leans into wearability with a rubber tropic strap and quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes. Production is capped at 109 pieces per model, priced at €1,649 including VAT.
Panerai
Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch?
The Radiomir Quaranta PAM01572 is framed as a more refined, wearable modern Panerai that keeps the core Radiomir identity but in a smaller, more elegant format than many of the brand’s larger offerings. The review highlights its restraint—polished steel case, clean black dial, and practical functions like sub-seconds and a date—arguing that simplicity is what makes it versatile. Over extended wear, it’s described as adaptable across casual and formal settings, staying comfortable and legible while still feeling distinctly Panerai. Pricing is listed at €6,300 / £5,500 / US$6,500 / A$10,200.
Comparing Time
5 Best Dive Watches That Most Collectors Forget
The piece argues that collectors often default to the same “usual suspects” in dive watches, overlooking several models that deliver strong real-world performance without the hype. It highlights the Glycine Combat Sub for its slim, easy-wearing profile; the Certina DS PH200M for vintage-inspired charm paired with strong specs and a long power reserve; and the Mido Ocean Star for lightweight titanium and high legibility. It also calls out the Archimede SportTaucher for its utilitarian comfort-focused design (including a smart crown placement) and the Longines HydroConquest for modern looks and solid dive credentials, with the main knock being bracelet execution. Overall, the takeaway is that these forgotten divers offer comfort, durability, and capability that can rival more mainstream choices.
Best rectangular watches
This guide rounds up a dozen standout rectangular watches to show how non-round cases can bring a distinct kind of character and sophistication to a collection. It spans everything from tough, everyday icons like the Casio G-Shock DW5600 to dressier, heritage-leaning options such as the Hamilton American Classic Boulton. The selection also includes modern independents and niche designs (like echo/neutra’s Rivanera) alongside classic luxury staples such as the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. At the top end, it highlights high-complication and high-design pieces like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph and the Richard Mille RM 16-02, emphasizing that rectangular form can work across nearly every category.
Bring a Loupe: An Audemars Piguet VZ SSC, A Girard-Perregaux ‘Playboy,’ And More
The article spotlights a curated set of watches currently catching attention, mixing serious collector pieces with charming, value-oriented finds. It leads with an Audemars Piguet VZ SSC—priced at €38,000—praised for its notable movement and distinctive lug design that elevates the watch beyond typical vintage appeal. It also features a Girard-Perregaux “Playboy Moon Watch” with a hand-painted dial, presented as a simple time-only watch with plenty of charm and an asking price of $368. Rounding out the selection are options like a classic Sportsways Skin Diver for utilitarian vintage diver flavor and a historically important Glycine Airman, underscoring how varied collecting can be across budgets and genres.
Buying Guide: Small But Mighty With 6 Versatile Watches Of 36mm And Under
This buying guide makes the case that sub-36mm watches can still deliver big versatility, balancing comfort with strong design identities. It includes a mix of styles, from the Bauhaus-leaning Nomos Tangente Gold to the compact, brutalist Toledano & Chan B/1.3R, plus a practical Tudor Ranger Dune White as an everyday option. The list also spans sportier and more luxurious territory with the integrated Pequignet Concorde Titanium, a classic Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic, and a high-end Rolex Land-Dweller in Everose gold. Across the six picks, the emphasis is on thoughtful proportions, strong finishing, and distinctive aesthetics—showing that smaller watches can cover everything from daily wear to formal settings.
Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Released In February 2026
The roundup highlights five notable February 2026 launches that range from ultra-high-end innovation to accessible, fast-selling collaborations. It points to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked as a technical and material-forward standout, while also celebrating the playful, affordable Citizen × seconde/seconde/ Tsuyosa limited edition. Breitling’s Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco F1 Team edition is framed as a strong motorsport-meets-aviation statement in modern materials. The list also includes Panerai’s Radiomir Viaggio nel Tempo Experience editions for collectors who value exclusivity beyond the watch itself, and Unimatic’s Modello Cinque U5S-BL as an approachable release that sold out quickly—together reflecting the breadth of what excited enthusiasts that month.
Racing Hearts: Six cool watches with a motoring theme :
This piece explores six watches that lean into motorsport inspiration, timed to the start of the Formula 1 season. It includes icons like the TAG Heuer Monaco while also emphasizing less-obvious picks that echo car dashboards and racing history through design and complications—such as the Reservoir GT Tour Blue Edition and the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph. The selection mixes rugged, performance-driven aesthetics (like the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing) with more artistic, sculptural approaches (like the MB&F HM9 Flow), showing multiple ways “motoring” can translate into watchmaking. Overall, it positions these choices as compelling alternatives to the usual mainstream racing chronograph conversation dominated by the Daytona and Speedmaster.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot
This head-to-head compares two everyday-capable watches that share similar specs but express them through very different design priorities. The Tudor Ranger is presented as the more rugged, adventure-oriented option with a heavily brushed case and a robust bracelet, though it’s criticized for certain typography choices and some sharper, less refined edges. The Longines Spirit Pilot is described as more polished and visually balanced, but it’s held back by a bracelet that doesn’t feel fully aligned with the case’s execution. With roughly a €700 price gap, the article frames the Spirit Pilot as the value play while the Ranger leans on heritage and toughness—leaving the decision to whether refinement or rugged character matters more.
Watches and Wonders 2026
A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026
This wishlist looks ahead to Watches and Wonders 2026 and lays out the author’s “hope list” for major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, Credor, and Tudor. It calls for realistic-but-ambitious updates, including a smoked sapphire-dial take on Patek’s in-line perpetual calendar and a smaller Grand Seiko Spring Drive dive watch that still meets serious water-resistance expectations. The piece also argues Credor has room to push further into the luxury spotlight with more accessible, market-facing releases. It closes by tying Tudor’s 100th anniversary to the idea of a modern “Big Block”-style chronograph powered by a new in-house movement.
Opinion Time
According To Ariel: Used Watch Prices Do Not Tell The Full Story On Brand Health Or Growth
The article argues that judging a watch brand’s health mainly by used-market pricing is misleading, because secondary prices capture only a slice of what’s really happening. It says the more meaningful measure is overall sales volume (new and used), but that data is usually hidden due to the industry’s secrecy. It also points to the rise of speculators and “watches as investments” culture, which can distort prices away from genuine consumer demand. The takeaway is that brand desirability, quality, and long-term growth require a broader, more nuanced view than tracking resale charts.
Watching Time - Videos
7 New Watch Predictions for 2026 (Rolex, Omega, Tudor, & More!) - YouTube - Unpolished
This video looks ahead at what 2026 could bring for some of the biggest names in watches, including Rolex, Omega, and Tudor. It frames the discussion around likely trends and potential releases, aiming to help enthusiasts think through what’s plausible versus pure wishful thinking. The episode is built to spark debate about how brands may evolve their designs, specs, and lineup strategy in response to the current market. Overall, it’s a forward-looking take meant to keep collectors and fans alert to what may be coming next.
8 Hottest New Watches Just Dropped! - YouTube - ONE Watches
This roundup highlights eight newly released watches positioned as some of the most exciting recent drops. It focuses on what makes each pick stand out—design details, novelty, and overall “buzz”—in a quick, enthusiast-friendly format. The video is intended to give collectors a snapshot of what’s new right now, with commentary geared toward what’s worth paying attention to. It’s essentially a rapid briefing on fresh releases for anyone trying to stay current.
A Few Favorite Watches From Intersect New York City That You May Not Have Heard Of (Over 17 Watches) - YouTube - Devin Pennypacker
This video tours more than 17 watches spotted at Intersect NYC, emphasizing pieces and brands that fly under the mainstream radar. It’s curated to broaden viewers’ horizons beyond the usual suspects, focusing on what makes these watches interesting in design and execution. Along the way, it highlights craftsmanship and creativity as reasons to consider lesser-known makers. The result is a discovery-driven watch list meant to inspire deeper exploration.
A Military Watch With Real History That Doesn’t Cost Thousands — The Waltham A-17 Pilot - YouTube - Windup Watch Shop
This episode spotlights the Waltham A-17 Pilot as a historically rooted military watch that remains relatively attainable. It leans on the A-17’s reputation for durability and practical functionality, explaining why it resonated with aviation and military use. The video also positions it as a way to own a meaningful piece of horological history without luxury-watch pricing. Overall, it’s a case for value through provenance and purpose-built design.
Omega needs fixing - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
This repair-focused video walks through issues affecting an Omega watch and what it takes to get it back into proper working order. It’s aimed at viewers who enjoy the nuts-and-bolts side of watch ownership, from diagnosis to the hands-on steps of restoration. The episode underscores why servicing matters for accuracy, longevity, and preserving value—especially with higher-end pieces. It’s an educational look at maintenance that deepens appreciation for the mechanics behind the brand.
Rolex Land-Dweller SURPRISE Reveal + Credor, Cartier & More | 3-WATCH THROW DOWN - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches
This “three-watch throw down” centers on a surprise reveal of the Rolex Land-Dweller and stacks it up against other luxury options, including Credor and Cartier. The format is comparative, focusing on what each watch does best—design language, specs, and overall value proposition. It’s built to help viewers clarify preferences by seeing the watches contrasted directly rather than in isolation. The video delivers a lively, enthusiast-oriented breakdown of how these contenders differ and who each one is for.
Rolex Release Predictions 2026: What Can We Expect? (Milgauss 70th Anniversary & Coke GMT Return) - YouTube - IDGuy
This video dives into possible Rolex moves for 2026, including speculation around a Milgauss 70th-anniversary angle and the potential return of a “Coke” GMT. It frames the predictions in terms of Rolex history and what collectors tend to respond to, blending brand heritage with market-driven reasoning. The discussion is meant to help viewers think through what changes are realistic—whether in design updates, lineup shifts, or commemorative releases. Overall, it’s a hype-checking prediction session for Rolex fans and collectors.
The Evolution of MING Watches - YouTube - Kevin O’Leary
Kevin O’Leary discusses how MING has developed its identity in the modern independent watch space, focusing on what makes the brand distinctive. The video is part business story and part design/craft commentary, tracing the brand’s growth and the choices that shaped its reputation. It highlights how MING differentiates itself from competitors through aesthetic direction and product philosophy. The overall aim is to explain why the brand resonates with enthusiasts and how it has built momentum.
The Two New Rolex Books Every Collector Will Want | AFTER HOURS - YouTube - The After Hours Show
This episode covers two newly released Rolex books positioned as essential references for collectors. It outlines why the publications matter—how they add context on history, details, and the broader Rolex ecosystem beyond just model specs. The discussion emphasizes that serious collecting is strengthened by better information, and that high-quality print resources can sharpen how people evaluate and enjoy watches. It’s a guide for enthusiasts who want to deepen knowledge, not just shop.
This New Skin Diver is Next Level and Affordable - YouTube - WatchChris
This video spotlights a new skin-diver-style watch presented as a strong performance-to-price option. It focuses on the features and design choices that elevate it above typical budget divers, while still keeping it accessible. The episode is framed for practical enthusiasts who care about capability and value, not just brand cachet. Overall, it’s a “worth your money” evaluation of a new affordable diver.
Tudor Is Getting More Expensive. That Changes Things. - YouTube - Doug’s Watches
This commentary explains how Tudor’s price increases could shift the brand’s position in the market and change how buyers evaluate it. It considers what happens when a brand known for relative value creeps upward—impacting first-time buyers, cross-shopping with competitors, and perceptions of “bang for the buck.” The video also touches on how pricing moves can influence collector behavior, including resale expectations and desirability. It’s a market-focused take on what higher MSRPs may mean for Tudor’s future.
When a Boring Watch Becomes Interesting - YouTube - Doug’s Watches
This video explores how certain watches that appear plain at first glance can become compelling once you understand their details, context, or story. It emphasizes that intrigue often comes from nuance—design restraint, unusual features, or historical relevance—rather than obvious flash. The episode encourages viewers to look past surface impressions and consider why “quiet” watches can be the most satisfying over time. Overall, it’s a perspective shift on how to judge what’s truly interesting in a collection.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Friday’s auction watch, the Breguet Marine Chronograph 5527 White Gold / Blue / Alligator (5527BB/Y2/9WV) - was bid to $17,600 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2019 Rolex Submariner Date White Gold “Smurf” (116619LB-0001)
Auction Report: Blue Blood Diver | The Rolex “Smurf” That Proves Gold Can Go Underwater
The watch crossing the auction block today is one of the more unusual members of the modern Submariner family: the 2019 Rolex Submariner Date White Gold “Smurf,” reference 116619LB. At first glance it looks like a standard blue Submariner. Then you pick it up and realize something is very different. The case and bracelet are not steel—they’re solid 18-karat white gold. Suddenly the familiar dive watch takes on a completely different personality: part professional tool watch, part stealth wealth flex.
Rolex introduced the reference 116619LB in 2008 as the brand’s first Submariner crafted entirely from white gold. It arrived with a bold blue dial and matching blue ceramic bezel, a color combination that immediately made it stand apart from the traditional black Submariner lineup. Collectors quickly gave it the nickname “Smurf,” a playful reference to the vibrant all-blue color scheme that looked unlike anything Rolex had previously done in its professional dive watch collection. Under the hood, the watch remained a serious piece of engineering, offering 300 meters of water resistance and powered by Rolex’s robust Caliber 3135 automatic movement, a workhorse movement used across the brand’s lineup for decades.
The Smurf also marked an important design moment in Rolex history. It arrived during the era of the so-called “Super Case” Submariners, with broader lugs and crown guards that gave the watch a more muscular stance on the wrist. Combined with the ceramic Cerachrom bezel insert and the luminous Chromalight display, it blended traditional Submariner DNA with Rolex’s modern materials and finishing. But the real story was the metal. A white-gold Submariner is heavy—substantially heavier than the steel versions most collectors know. It’s the kind of watch that quietly reminds you every time you move your wrist that you are wearing something decidedly luxurious.
Originally retailing around the high-$30,000 range when new, the Smurf has held a relatively steady position in the secondary market. Recent pre-owned estimates hover around roughly $38,000, with actual listings and dealer offerings often ranging from about $40,000 into the upper $40,000s depending on condition and completeness. Full sets with box and papers—like the example offered here—typically command stronger bids because collectors value the completeness and traceability of the watch.
This particular 2019 example appears to be an honest, worn piece rather than a safe queen. The dial, hands, and crystal remain in excellent condition, preserving the deep sunburst blue that defines the Smurf aesthetic. The case and bracelet show scratches consistent with regular use and light polishing, the sort of marks you would expect from a white-gold sports watch that has actually seen daylight rather than spending its life in a vault. In a way, that makes the watch more appealing. The Submariner was designed to be worn, and a few battle scars simply prove that someone understood the assignment.
Timing also works in the Smurf’s favor. The reference 116619LB has been discontinued, replaced by the newer 41mm white-gold Submariner variants, which means the classic 40mm Smurf now occupies a specific chapter in Rolex’s design evolution. For collectors who prefer the older proportions—or who simply want the original all-blue Submariner in precious metal—this model remains the one to own.
As the auction approaches its close at 12:30 pm on Monday, March 9, 2026, the Smurf stands as one of those Rolex watches that manages to be both playful and serious at the same time. It’s a luxury dive watch made of solid gold, colored like a cartoon, and engineered like a submarine instrument. In other words, exactly the sort of contradiction that keeps collectors fascinated.
If you’ve ever wanted a Submariner that looks like steel but weighs like a gold bar, this might be the moment. Just don’t expect it to stay secret for long once someone picks it up.
-Michael Wolf
Current bid: $34,755