BuyingTime Daily - March 5, 2026
Watch retail goes gamified, boutique wars heat up, Rolex Pepsi rumors swirl, and fresh releases from Bianchet, Hermès, Seiko and more keep the watch world ticking.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Watch news moved on several fronts yesterday, mixing market experimentation, boutique expansion, new product launches, and a few reminders that the business side of horology is rarely boring. If yesterday felt like the watch world needed a quick wind, today delivered a little more motion as retailers, brands, and analysts all pushed fresh narratives into the conversation.
One of the more unusual developments comes from the retail side, where Luxury Bazaar announced a partnership with Courtyard.io that blends high-end watches with a gamified discovery-shopping format. The concept introduces “reveal” style purchasing experiences where collectors open digital packs to uncover authenticated watches, supported by a 95 percent buyback guarantee designed to soften the risk. The partnership will also feature livestream activations and even a reveal event involving a watch valued at up to $90,000. Whether this format becomes the future of discovery commerce or simply a flashy experiment remains to be seen, but it certainly reflects the industry’s ongoing search for new ways to make watch collecting feel interactive rather than transactional.
On the talent-development side of the industry, the Swiss non-profit Tad Kozh announced the launch of its New Talent Award aimed at watchmakers between 18 and 35 years old. Founded by Alix and Baudouin van Es, the program combines practical finishing examinations with mentorship and access to specialized machinery to help early-career watchmakers refine their craft. The initiative will also produce small collaborative limited editions with partner brands and artisans, with proceeds funding the award program. In a world where much of the spotlight goes to heritage brands, it is encouraging to see structured support for the next generation of independent watchmakers.
Retail strategy is also back in focus thanks to an analysis of how tax policy is shaping boutique expansion across the luxury sector. The article notes that 100 percent bonus depreciation in the US from the 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act has dramatically improved the economics of boutique construction by allowing companies to immediately deduct the cost of capital improvements. That policy has helped justify high-profile projects such as Rolex’s massive Fifth Avenue headquarters, and it has encouraged other brands to accelerate store upgrades before the depreciation advantage phases out. If the tax treatment changes again, the pace of boutique expansion could slow just as quickly as it accelerated.
Meanwhile in Paris, Piaget has reopened its significantly expanded flagship at Place Vendôme, doubling its footprint and introducing a retail concept expected to roll out globally. Designed by Rafael de Cárdenas, the two-level boutique combines references to Piaget’s historic dial work with elements of twentieth-century French decorative arts. Marble, coral tones, blue stone accents, and flowing architectural details create a client journey that feels part jewelry salon, part art gallery. The reopening signals that the boutique arms race among luxury brands is far from over.
Market speculation continues to swirl around the GMT-Master II “Pepsi,” with reports suggesting authorized dealers may no longer be receiving new deliveries. While the model still appears on Rolex’s official website, collectors are increasingly wondering whether a discontinuation announcement could arrive at Watches and Wonders. The uncertainty has already pushed secondary prices higher as buyers scramble to secure examples, demonstrating once again how quickly the rumor mill can influence the market for Rolex sports models.
A separate industry analysis of Morgan Stanley’s latest Swiss watch report highlights the continuing dominance of Rolex while noting that Omega experienced a sales decline during the year. The data suggests that average retail prices among the top brands climbed nearly ten percent between 2024 and 2025, well ahead of inflation. Tudor emerged as a notable climber thanks to rising average prices and unit volumes, while Longines appears to have lost some momentum. The report also notes that smaller independent and micro-brands continue filling niches abandoned by larger players, reinforcing the idea that the watch ecosystem is broadening rather than consolidating.
The editorial conversation today circles around the controversial arrival of watch futures trading from Bezel and Kalshi. The concept allows participants to speculate on the future price movements of watches, effectively turning certain references into tradable prediction markets. Critics argue that the model risks pushing collecting closer to sports betting than traditional appreciation of horology. Supporters say price discovery is inevitable in a market already shaped by speculation. Either way, the debate highlights a growing tension between watches as objects of craftsmanship and watches as financial instruments.
The social side of the industry also gets a moment in the spotlight with news that the 24 Karat Club of New York will return to the Waldorf Astoria on March 14 for its annual banquet. Under President Steven Lagos, the organization is widening its invitation list in an effort to bring younger professionals and new voices into the fold. It is a notable shift for a club that historically leaned toward exclusivity, and it suggests the jewelry and watch industries are slowly adapting to generational change.
New watch releases today cover everything from high-end independents to affordable enthusiast pieces. Bianchet unveiled the B 1.618 UltraFino Titanium, an impressively thin automatic flying tourbillon measuring just 8.9 millimeters thick while weighing only 77 grams on bracelet. Hanhart introduced the limited 417 TI Desert Pilot, a titanium flyback chronograph with tactical styling and a sand-toned dial. Hermès expanded its Slim collection with the skeletonized Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, combining openworked architecture with a moonphase complication. Seiko released two Japan-only Prospex divers celebrating Shohei Ohtani with gold accents and limited runs tied to the baseball star’s jersey number. Meanwhile Serica added a playful cultural twist with the Ref. 6190 TDM, replacing the traditional California dial numerals with Thai characters.
In the review department, Ollech & Wajs returned to its military roots with the OW MK-102, a modern reissue inspired by watches originally produced during the Vietnam War era. The 39.5 mm diver features a distinctive dial with a red date display, 300 meters of water resistance, and a robust Soprod automatic movement, offering a compelling combination of heritage design and modern durability.
The video lineup today is packed with watch commentary and collector insight. Time+Tide stages a three-watch showdown featuring a Rolex Submariner alongside a Studio Underd0g collaboration and a rare Japanese grail. The channel This Watch, That Watch dives into the developing dispute between Swatch Group and Morgan Stanley’s market report. Watch Society explores whether the watch market is facing a correction or something worse in 2026. Full Set Watches argues that case diameter is far less important than how a watch actually wears. Monochrome highlights the gold versions of the Nomos Tangente and Ludwig, while the Business of Watches video podcast features an interview with Zenith CEO Benoit De Clerck discussing production strategy and demand alignment.
On the auction front, yesterday’s Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Centenary Four Seasons stalled at $12,258 without meeting its reserve, leaving potential buyers free to negotiate an offer. Meanwhile today’s featured auction is the 2025 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite, a cosmic interpretation of the classic chronograph with a genuine meteorite dial and actual rare fragments of lunar meteorite embedded in the moonphase display. Powered by the Master Chronometer caliber 9914 and housed in a 43 mm steel case, the watch currently sits at a $10,250 bid with the hammer scheduled for later this afternoon.
Taken together, today’s watch universe shows an industry that is experimenting with retail formats, debating financialization, investing heavily in boutiques, and continuing to release a steady stream of fascinating watches across every price tier. In other words, the gears of horology keep turning—even if sometimes they need a little winding to get started.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Luxury Bazaar partners with Courtyard.io to bring discovery shopping to high-end watches
Luxury Bazaar is partnering with Courtyard.io to offer a curated lineup of authenticated luxury watches to Courtyard’s collector community through a digital “reveal” shopping format. The experience is designed to make high-end collecting more engaging while reducing downside risk through a 95% instant buyback guarantee. The partnership will also include live-stream activations, including a pack-opening event featuring a reveal and giveaway of a watch valued up to $90,000. Overall, it blends e-commerce and gamified discovery, letting buyers keep, trade, relist, or redeem watches within the platform.
Tad Kozh, a Award for New Talents Mixed with Artistic Crafts Limited Editions
Tad Kozh is a Swiss non-profit founded by Alix and Baudouin van Es to encourage traditional watchmaking and help develop early-career talent. Its New Talent Award invites watchmakers ages 18 to 35 with a watchmaking diploma to submit professional projects and demonstrate finishing skills through practical exams. Winners receive mentorship and access to specialized machinery to deepen their capabilities. Tad Kozh will also release small-batch collaborative limited editions with brands and artisans, using proceeds to fund the award program, with the first two editions planned for 2026.
How Trump’s tax policy is turbo-charging boutique building for Rolex and its peers
The article explains how 100% bonus depreciation introduced under the 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act has made boutique buildouts far more attractive for luxury retailers. By allowing brands to deduct the full cost of capital improvements immediately, the policy improves cash flow and speeds up returns, helping justify major investments like Rolex’s new Fifth Avenue headquarters. As the benefit has started tapering, retailers have extra incentive to accelerate store upgrades before the advantage declines further. The piece also notes that uncertainty around future tax treatment could change the economics of expansion and push brands toward more cautious strategies.
Piaget reopens Parisian flagship
Piaget has reopened a significantly expanded and refurbished flagship boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris, doubling its footprint and debuting a new store concept intended for wider rollout. The refresh is positioned as part of a brand revitalization effort, especially as competitors have invested heavily in high-impact retail environments. Designed by Rafael de Cárdenas, the two-level space blends references to Piaget’s historic dial work with influences from 20th-century French decorative arts and rich materials like marble, blue stones, coral, and gold. Intimate rooms, custom furniture, and a flowing staircase create a cohesive client journey through the boutique.
Feature Time
Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore”
The piece explores growing speculation that the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” may be headed for discontinuation. While the models still appear on Rolex’s website, reports suggest authorized dealers no longer see them in ordering systems, fueling uncertainty about what comes next. That uncertainty has already pushed pre-owned prices higher as collectors move quickly to secure examples. With Watches and Wonders 2026 approaching and the GMT-Master having recently marked its 70th anniversary, attention is on whether Rolex makes a minor tweak, a major overhaul, or pivots to another bezel colorway.
Morgan Stanley’s top 50 Swiss watch brands for 2025, analyzed again
This analysis highlights major shifts in the Swiss watch market based on Morgan Stanley’s 2025 top-50 ranking, with Rolex still dominant and Omega showing a sales decline. It notes that average retail prices across the group rose 9.8% from 2024 to 2025, outpacing inflation. Tudor is singled out for gains in both average selling price and unit volume, suggesting stronger pull with buyers seeking alternatives to higher-priced brands, while Longines is described as losing ground. The piece also points to micro-brands filling gaps left by larger players and argues that brands will need to emphasize value and customer relationships to stay resilient through economic changes.
Editorial Time
Does Anybody Want This? Kalshi and Bezel Now Offer Watch Futures Trading
The launch of watch futures trading from Bezel and Kalshi raises concerns that watch collecting could become more like sports betting, shifting attention from enjoyment and craft to pure pricing and speculation. The platform lets users wager on watch valuations and new releases, which introduces ethical questions around transparency and whether insiders could exploit privileged information. Critics worry this could encourage flipping and gambling behavior over genuine appreciation, and further normalize betting as part of everyday life. The piece ultimately questions whether the watch community can preserve passion for horology as financial incentives become more central.
Event Time
The 24 Karat Club Returns To NY Waldorf With More Inclusive Invite List
The 24 Karat Club of New York will return to the Waldorf Astoria for its annual banquet on March 14, 2026, marking a homecoming after the hotel’s renovation. Under Club President Steven Lagos, the event is also being positioned as a shift toward a more inclusive, forward-looking guest list. The club is aiming to bring in younger professionals and new voices from across the jewelry and watch worlds, moving away from the exclusivity that shaped earlier editions. Steps like distributing invitations to help members invite newcomers are meant to keep the organization relevant as the industry evolves.
The Latest Time
Bianchet
Insider: Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Titanium. The Independent Tourbillon Punching Above Its Weight
Bianchet’s B 1.618 UltraFino Titanium marks the brand’s first ultra-thin design, its first automatic movement, and its first integrated bracelet, all in a 40mm Grade 5 titanium case that’s just 8.9mm thick. Despite the slim profile, it is positioned as a tough, modern piece with 50m water resistance and claimed shock resistance up to 5,000 Gs. Inside is the new calibre UT01, an automatic flying tourbillon built entirely from titanium with a 70-hour power reserve, and the watch is said to weigh just 77 grams on bracelet. Price is listed at CHF 55,500, which converts to about $71,040 USD at current rates.
Hanhart
The Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot, The Titanium Flyback Chrono
The Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot is a limited-edition flyback chronograph built around a sandblasted Grade 5 titanium case and a matching sand-toned dial for a modern, tactical look. It comes in both 39mm and 42mm sizes, uses a bi-compax layout, and is rated to 100m water resistance. Power comes from the Sellita AMT5100 M movement with at least a 58-hour reserve, pairing heritage pilot-chronograph cues with contemporary materials. The retail price is EUR 2,990, which converts to about $3,530 USD at current rates.
Hermès
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watch
Hermès expands the Slim d’Hermès line with the Squelette Lune, highlighting a skeletonized approach that puts the engineering on display while integrating a moonphase into the design. The 39.5mm watch uses the H1953 movement developed with Vaucher, keeping the profile slim at just under 9mm while delivering a 48-hour power reserve. Two versions are offered, one in aqua green titanium and one in platinum, each emphasizing refined finishing and a distinctive, design-forward layout. Prices are listed at $25,500 USD (titanium) and $42,450 USD (platinum).
Seiko
Seiko Drops Two Gold-Accented Dive Watches to Honor Shohei Ohtani
Seiko released two Japan-only limited Prospex divers, the 1965 Heritage SBDC222 and SBDC224, as tributes to Shohei Ohtani and his success with the LA Dodgers. Both use a 40mm steel case and feature gray or blue colorways tied to the team, with gold accents referencing the MLB MVP patch. Personal touches include “17” engraved details and a production run limited to 1,700 pieces, matching Ohtani’s jersey number, with the Caliber 6R55 automatic inside. The price is listed at approximately $1,832 USD.
Serica
The Serica Ref. 6190 TDM, a Thai Twist on the California Dial
The Serica Ref. 6190 TDM is a Thai-market limited edition that reinterprets the California dial by swapping in Thai numerals for a more locally specific identity. It keeps a compact 37.7mm stainless steel case and pairs the look with a COSC-certified SoProd M100 automatic movement. With a glossy black, enamel-like dial treatment, luminous broad-arrow hands, and 200m water resistance, it is framed as both distinctive and genuinely functional. The price is listed at EUR 1,190, which converts to about $1,406 USD at current rates.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Ollech & Wajs
Ollech & Wajs OW MK-102 Watch Review: A Reissued Unit Timepiece From Military History
The Ollech & Wajs OW MK-102 is presented as a modern reissue rooted in the brand’s history of supplying military-oriented watches, with ties to pieces originally made for soldiers during the Vietnam War era. It uses a distinctive dial layout with the date at 6 o’clock and red date text, along with Super-LumiNova markers for strong low-light legibility. The watch comes in a 39.5mm steel case with 300m water resistance, paired with a black PVD timing bezel and strap options that include a NATO-style strap or a mesh bracelet. Inside is a modified Soprod P024 automatic movement housed behind a solid caseback, and the price is listed at 1,496 CHF.
Watching Time - Videos
Rolex Sub, Studio Underd0g x Fears & a rare Japanese grail — Erika’s 3-WATCH THROW DOWN - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches
This video spotlights a three-watch showdown built around a Rolex Submariner, a Studio Underd0g x Fears collaboration, and a rare Japanese “grail” piece. It frames the trio as very different kinds of enthusiast watches, using comparison and storytelling to explain what makes each one compelling. Along the way, the discussion focuses on the distinct character, context, and appeal of each watch rather than treating them as interchangeable status objects. The result is a guided, enthusiast-oriented breakdown that helps viewers understand why these specific picks matter right now.
March news: Morgan Stanley & Swatch fight + movements - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
This episode focuses on a developing clash involving Morgan Stanley and Swatch, using it as a lens to talk about broader watch-market narratives and how big players try to shape them. It highlights the push-and-pull between industry analysis, brand messaging, and what collectors take away from headline data. The video also touches on “movements” as a theme, tying business-level news back to product and technical decisions that affect enthusiasts. Overall, it is positioned as a quick, market-aware roundup of what is moving conversations in watches right now.
Watch Market 2026: Correction or Crash? - YouTube - Watch Society
This video examines whether the watch market heading into 2026 is facing a normal correction or something more severe. It breaks down drivers that could influence pricing and demand, and it frames the discussion around how collectors and buyers might interpret changing conditions. The emphasis is on being deliberate and informed, especially for anyone making purchase decisions with market dynamics in mind. It uses a forward-looking approach to help viewers think through risk, opportunity, and what a downturn could realistically look like.
Watch Sizes Mean NOTHING (Here’s What Matters Instead) - YouTube - Full Set Watches
This video argues that watch size alone is a poor way to judge whether a watch will work, and it encourages a more practical, personal approach to fit. It emphasizes comfort, style, and how a watch integrates into day-to-day life over fixating on diameter specs. It also points to design, materials, and functionality as the factors that usually make a bigger difference in satisfaction than millimeters on a spec sheet. The takeaway is a more holistic framework for choosing watches that actually get worn and enjoyed.
5 Things I Hate About Watch Collecting (After Years in The Game) - YouTube - Watch Clyde
This video offers a candid look at the less-glamorous parts of long-term watch collecting, focusing on frustrations that tend to build with experience. It touches on issues like market swings, trend pressure, and the emotional weight that can come with chasing or maintaining a collection. The perspective is meant to be relatable, reframing collecting as something that can be rewarding but also mentally and financially taxing. It ultimately encourages viewers to prioritize enjoyment and personal meaning over external hype or purely monetary thinking.
Going For Gold, With The Elegantly Timeless Nomos Tangente & Ludwig Gold - YouTube - Monochrome Watches
This video highlights the Nomos Tangente and Ludwig Gold models, focusing on how gold changes the feel of Nomos’s typically restrained design language. It emphasizes craftsmanship and design detail, presenting the watches as elegant, long-lasting choices rather than momentary trend pieces. It also connects the material choice to broader themes of luxury and refinement in watchmaking, using the two references to illustrate that point. The result is a visually driven overview aimed at viewers who value classic design with a precious-metal twist.
Listening Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Zenith CEO Benoit De Clerck
This episode features an interview with Zenith CEO Benoit De Clerck focused on how the brand is navigating a tougher environment by aligning production more tightly with retail demand. It also discusses Zenith’s role supplying movements to other LVMH brands as a growth lever and strategic asset. Additional commentary from Logan Baker adds perspective on Zenith’s position and how luxury-watch valuations are shifting, including remarks related to Breitling. Overall, it is a business-focused look at how major brands are adjusting strategy as market conditions evolve.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Centenary Four Seasons (Four Seasons) - was bid to $12,258 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Steel / Meteorite / Bracelet (304.30.43.52.01.001)
Auction Report: The Meteorite Moonwatch — Omega’s Cosmic Take on the Speedmaster Moonphase
The watch crossing the auction block today is the 2025 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite, reference 304.30.43.52.01.001, an ambitious modern interpretation of the brand’s most famous chronograph that pushes the Speedmaster further into astronomical territory. Offered in unworn condition with box and papers, this example combines the historic DNA of the Moonwatch with an unusually dramatic dial material and one of Omega’s most technically advanced manual chronograph movements.
The Speedmaster line hardly needs an introduction. Since accompanying astronauts on the Apollo missions and becoming the first watch worn on the Moon in 1969, the Speedmaster has evolved into one of the most recognizable watches in the world. Over the decades Omega has experimented with complications and materials that expand on the original Moonwatch formula, and the Moonphase versions represent one of the most poetic expressions of that heritage. The 2025 meteorite models are among the newest additions to the family and are positioned as higher-end variants within the modern Speedmaster catalog.
The defining visual feature of this reference is its dial, crafted from genuine meteorite. The material is sliced and treated to reveal the crystalline Widmanstätten patterns formed during millions of years of cooling inside an asteroid. Each dial is therefore unique, giving every watch an extraterrestrial fingerprint. On this version the meteorite appears in a dark tone, contrasting with applied indexes and chronograph registers while retaining the unmistakable Speedmaster layout. At six o’clock sits the moonphase display, which adds another cosmic touch: the moon discs themselves incorporate very rare actual lunar meteorite fragments and are set against a starry sky representation.
The watch is housed in a 43 mm stainless-steel case with a steel bracelet and a ceramic tachymeter bezel. While the dimensions are larger than the classic 42 mm Moonwatch, the design remains unmistakably Speedmaster. The chronograph pushers, twisted lugs, and balanced dial layout maintain the lineage while accommodating the additional complications. Water resistance is rated to 100 meters, making it more robust than many traditional chronographs in the category.
Inside the watch is the manual-winding Omega caliber 9914, a modern Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. This caliber offers a 60-hour power reserve and is certified for high magnetic resistance and chronometric performance under METAS testing standards. It powers the chronograph, date, and moonphase displays, representing a technically sophisticated engine compared with earlier automatic Speedmaster Moonphase movements.
When released in 2025, the meteorite Speedmaster Moonphase carried a retail price of roughly $17,100, positioning it significantly above standard steel Speedmaster models and emphasizing the rarity of the dial material and the upgraded movement. The list price is now $19,200. On the secondary market today, listings for this reference generally fall in the mid-$14,000 to $19,000 range depending on condition and completeness of the set, with unworn full-set examples often hovering around the middle of that band.
That pricing context makes this particular lot especially interesting. The watch is listed as unworn and complete with its original accessories, which is exactly what collectors tend to prefer for modern Omega pieces that may become future reference points in the Speedmaster timeline. While meteorite dials appear across the industry, combining one with a manual chronograph, a moonphase complication, and the Speedmaster’s lunar heritage creates a compelling narrative that resonates with collectors who enjoy watches that tell a story beyond simple timekeeping.
In practical terms, the 304.30.43.52.01.001 sits in an intriguing niche. It is neither a vintage collectible nor a limited edition chasing speculative hype. Instead, it represents a technically ambitious modern Speedmaster that celebrates the brand’s space legacy in a literal way: the dial material comes from outer space, the complication tracks the moon’s cycle, and the watch belongs to the family that actually traveled there.
With the auction closing at 1:45 p.m. today (Thursday, February 5, 2026), the final price will reveal how the market is currently valuing Omega’s newest meteorite-dial Speedmaster. If the bidding lands somewhere in the mid-teens, it will likely confirm the current secondary-market equilibrium for this still-new reference. Should it push toward the upper range, it may signal that collectors are beginning to appreciate the watch not simply as another Speedmaster variant, but as one of the more distinctive celestial-themed executions in the modern catalog.
For buyers who like their watches with a little bit of cosmic drama, this Speedmaster may be one of the more literal “space watches” available today.
Current bid: $10,250