BuyingTime Daily - March 27, 2026
Moser bets on margins, Omega redefines precision, and AP’s Royal Oak headlines auction action—plus fresh releases and sharp takes across the watch world.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world continues to thread an interesting needle—balancing ambition, exclusivity, and just enough disruption to keep things from feeling too predictable. Case in point: H. Moser & Cie is openly doubling down on a strategy that feels almost contrarian in today’s volume-chasing environment. CEO Edouard Meylan is making it clear that margin discipline—not unit growth—is the priority, even as the brand eyes expansion with a new factory and broader production capabilities. In a market where many are quietly discounting or overproducing, Moser’s insistence on scarcity and pricing power reads less like caution and more like a long-term bet on brand equity.
Meanwhile, Richard Mille is doing what Richard Mille does best—finding high-performance human machines to match its mechanical ones. The brand’s new partnership with undefeated UFC champion Ilia Topuria brings combat sports into the fold for the first time, and it fits surprisingly well. Topuria’s precision, explosiveness, and discipline mirror the ethos behind pieces like the RM 67-02 he’s been spotted wearing, reinforcing the brand’s ongoing alignment with elite athleticism across increasingly diverse arenas.
On the product side, Omega is making a quietly significant technical statement with its new Constellation Observatory collection. Two-hand watches achieving Master Chronometer certification might sound like a niche flex, but the underlying acoustic testing innovation—essentially “listening” to timekeeping performance over an extended cycle—signals how seriously the brand is pushing precision beyond traditional benchmarks. It’s a reminder that even the most classic-looking watches are becoming increasingly data-driven under the hood.
The reviews and releases today span the full spectrum of watchmaking philosophy. Breguet leans into unapologetic classicism with the gold-on-gold Classique Phase de Lune 7235, a watch that feels almost deliberately out of step with modern minimalism in the best way possible. At the other end, Breva continues its instrument-inspired niche with the Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold, pairing technical theatrics with a seven-day power reserve that feels built for enthusiasts who enjoy interacting with their watches as much as wearing them. Longines takes a more pragmatic approach, refreshing the HydroConquest into what might be one of the most compelling sub-$3,000 dive watches on the market, while Mido quietly sharpens its Commander Datoday into a cleaner, more contemporary everyday option. Nomos, as usual, splits the difference with subtle color updates that make its Club Campus line feel fresh without trying too hard, and independent player Maghnam leans all the way into modular, sculptural storytelling with the Mohareb—arguably one of the more concept-driven releases in recent memory.
Elsewhere, the conversation around watch marketing is starting to sound a little more self-aware. The growing critique that luxury communication has become too polished—and therefore forgettable—feels accurate, especially as social media continues to reward authenticity over perfection. The brands that figure out how to loosen the tie without losing credibility are likely the ones that will stand out in the next cycle.
On the ground, BLADE Show Texas offered a reminder that enthusiast culture is still very much alive and well, even outside traditional watch events. The crossover between gear, knives, and watches continues to produce some of the most organic community moments, the kind that no marketing campaign can quite replicate. At the same time, the auction world is keeping things interesting, with a no-reserve sale headlined by a high-complication Richard MilleRM11-03 alongside heavy hitters from Rolex, Cartier, and Breitling, reinforcing that when the safety net disappears, attention tends to spike.
If you’re watching along at home, the video lineup today is particularly strong. There’s a first look at Omega’s new Constellation that helps contextualize its design direction, a practical breakdown of how to actually choose a watch without falling into brand-driven traps, and multiple hands-on takes on the new Longines HydroConquest that collectively make a convincing case for its value proposition. Add in a few industry deep dives—from strap pricing exposés to discussions about the evolving sweet spot around $3,500—and there’s plenty to chew on beyond just new releases.
At auction, yesterday’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds pushed to $25,000 but failed to meet reserve, a small but telling data point about where the market is drawing its lines right now. Attention now shifts to today’s closing lot, the 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26240ST, currently sitting at $25,500 as it heads toward its 5:25 pm EDT finish. As a modern benchmark for the Royal Oak line—with its integrated Caliber 4401 and 50th-anniversary pedigree—it’s exactly the kind of watch that tests whether steady demand still translates into decisive bidding.
All told, today feels less about any single headline and more about a broader recalibration. Brands are refining their strategies, collectors are getting more selective, and the line between hype and substance continues to sharpen. In other words, the watch world is doing what it does best—evolving just enough to keep everyone paying attention.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
H. Moser says it must maintain margins while doubling sales
H. Moser & Cie says it’s pursuing growth without sacrificing profitability, even as the broader Swiss watch industry faces pressure. The brand plans to expand capacity (including a new factory) while protecting exclusivity and pricing power. CEO Edouard Meylan argues that strong margins matter more than chasing volume, preferring to sell fewer watches at healthier profitability to fund innovation and marketing. The company expects this disciplined approach—plus a steady pipeline of new products and collaborations—to support significant growth over the next several years.
Richard Mille teams up with UFC champion Ilia Topuria
Richard Mille has signed UFC champion Ilia Topuria, marking the brand’s first partnership in combat sports. Topuria—an undefeated 17–0 fighter and a rare double champion—frames the collaboration as a shared commitment to discipline and excellence. The story highlights Topuria’s path from a difficult early life across multiple countries to becoming one of the sport’s biggest stars, known for frequent first-round finishes. He’s shown wearing the RM 67-02 Automatic Extra-Flat, a lightweight model he describes as elegant and understated.
Feature Time
CORDER’S COLUMN: This brag made me laugh out loud
Omega has launched a new Constellation Observatory Collection featuring Master Chronometer certification on two-hand watches, a notable flex given the lack of a seconds hand. The brand achieved this by developing an acoustic testing method that listens to each tick while tracking environmental variables over a 25-day test cycle. That continuous stream of data reveals performance details—like positional variation and frequency irregularities—that traditional testing can miss. Prices start around £9,100 for the 39mm steel model and extend up to £49,500 for an all-gold version.
The Latest Time
Breguet
Breguet Classique Phase De Lune 7235 Watch Hands-On: Gold-On-Gold Classicism
The Classique Phase de Lune 7235 is a limited-edition dress watch in 18k “Breguet gold,” pairing a matching gold dial and case with extensive guilloché work. It uses Breguet’s in-house automatic calibre 502.3.DRL, updated with a silicon balance spring for modern stability. The display is intentionally asymmetrical yet balanced, adding subsidiary seconds, power reserve, and a moonphase while staying classically Breguet. The watch is limited to 250 pieces and priced at $85,800.
Breva
The Breva Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold
Breva’s Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold keeps the model’s cushion-shaped titanium case and instrument-style retrograde layout, but adds a warm, matte powder-gold dial. The hand-wound calibre C101 (developed with Jean-François Mojon) delivers a substantial seven-day power reserve with high-end finishing throughout. A double power-reserve system is designed to make the remaining energy especially easy to read in daily wear. Price is CHF 46,000 (about $57,960 USD).
Longines
The All-New 2026 Longines HydroConquest Collection
The 2026 HydroConquest is a full redesign that keeps the 300m dive capability but shifts to a sleeker, more ergonomic case in 39mm and 42mm, with ceramic bezel and updated dial finishing options. Inside is the Longines-exclusive Calibre L888.5 automatic with a 72-hour power reserve and improved anti-magnetic performance. The collection offers multiple bracelet styles (including Milanese), both with micro-adjustment safety clasps. Pricing is CHF 1,850 (about $2,331 USD) on the H-link bracelet, or CHF 1,950 (about $2,457 USD) on the Milanese bracelet.
Maghnam
The Maghnam Mohareb: A Gladiator of Time with Sculptural Swiss Watch Innovation
The Mohareb is positioned as a sculptural, modular independent watch that blends cultural storytelling with a distinctly modern Swiss build. It was introduced with three interchangeable external configurations—Blades, Halo, and Wings—so the watch can be re-styled while keeping the same core structure. Time is displayed via a hand-wound movement with a bi-retrograde module, using sweeping arcs and a vertical counter for a more “instrument” feel than a standard dial layout. Launch price is CHF 7,200 (about $9,072 USD), with limited availability through select retailers.
Mido
The Mido Commander Datoday Just Got a Seriously Clean Redesign
Mido’s refreshed Commander Datoday targets the $1,000-ish integrated-everyday-steel-watch crowd with a noticeably cleaner, more modern dial. The update swaps older dot indices for baton markers and pairs them with faceted hands and sunburst finishing, while keeping the day-date display at 3 o’clock as the signature feature. The 40mm case uses a box sapphire crystal, is rated to 50m, and runs on the Powermatic 80 for an 80-hour power reserve. Pricing is listed as $1,090 for blue/silver/anthracite versions, or $1,260 for the green dial with rose-gold accents.
Nomos
The Nomos Club Campus Gets Two New Colors In Full Rose And All Olive
Nomos added two more understated dial options to the Club Campus line—“Full Rose” and “All Olive”—aimed at buyers who want something quieter than the brand’s more playful recent colors. Both versions keep the casual, approachable Campus identity while leaning into more versatile tones and contrasting minute/track accents. They’re offered in 36mm and 38.5mm and run the manual-wind DUW4001 with a 53-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance. Prices are $1,890 or $2,070 depending on size, with an optional sapphire caseback for an additional $290.
Omega
The All-New Omega Constellation Observatory Collection
Omega’s Constellation Observatory Collection revisits classic Constellation cues—like the pie-pan dial and dog-leg lugs—while introducing modern construction across steel, gold, and platinum references in a 39.4mm case. The headline is that these are the first two-hand watches to reach Master Chronometer certification, enabled by updated testing methods designed to validate precision without needing a seconds hand. Beyond accuracy, the certification process emphasizes real-world resilience, including resistance to magnetism and longer observation under varied conditions. Pricing is listed from EUR 10,700 to EUR 37,300 (about $12,305 to $42,895 USD).
Opinion Time
Is Watch Communication Too Serious?
Luxury watch marketing has long leaned on polished, formal visuals that signal heritage and prestige, but can also feel predictable and humorless. Social media has expanded what’s possible, letting brands share more human, behind-the-scenes content that creates authenticity and emotional connection. The piece argues that traditional campaigns—especially in places like airports—often blur together because they prioritize aesthetic perfection over being memorable. The challenge now is for brands to keep craftsmanship and heritage intact while taking bolder creative risks that spark emotion and stand out.
Event Time
Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas
BLADE Show Texas kicks off a yearly trilogy of blade-and-gear gatherings, with this Fort Worth stop offering a smaller, more relaxed counterpart to the larger Atlanta show. The report highlights the intense enthusiasm—people lining up hours early for rare items—alongside the social aspect of reconnecting with familiar faces and meeting new ones. Watch spotting is part of the fun, with everything from luxury pieces to community favorites seen on wrists, plus practical notes like prioritizing comfortable shoes and staying hydrated. The looser pace and ample venue space make it easier to have meaningful conversations with vendors and other attendees.
Brand-defining Richard Mille Model Heads Luxury No-reserve Auction
Wilsons Auctions is running online-only, no-reserve sales in late March featuring high-end watches and luxury accessories, all located in the UK. The headline lot is a Richard Mille RM11-03 in 18ct rose gold and grade 5 titanium, with an openworked dial and a complication-heavy RMAC1 automatic movement (flyback chronograph, countdown timer, oversized date, and more). Other notable lots include an Everose Rolex GMT-Master II and an unused HermèsBirkin 40, with a separate Belfast luxury sale also offering pieces like a 2025 Cartier Tank Must and a rose-gold Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary. The key hook is the rarity of seeing these brands offered without reserve, presenting an unusual shot for collectors.
Watching Time - Videos
A First Look At The New Omega Constellation Observatory - YouTube - Fratello
This video previews Omega’s newest Constellation Observatory models, focusing on what makes the line distinctive in both design and positioning. It walks through the visual details and finishing that drive the Constellation’s more elegant, precision-forward identity. The presentation also calls out the modern technical updates Omega is using to keep the collection current while staying rooted in the brand’s traditional strengths.
How to chose the perfect watch. My criteria. IWC, Tudor, Rolex, Mido, Christopher Ward etc - YouTube - ConstanTime
This episode lays out a practical framework for choosing “the perfect” watch by prioritizing personal criteria over brand hype. Using examples like IWC, Tudor, Rolex, Mido, and Christopher Ward, it highlights trade-offs between style, movement choices, and everyday usability. The core takeaway is to align the watch with your lifestyle and preferences so the purchase feels intentional and long-term.
NEW Longines Hydroconquest - Best Budget Submariner?! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
The video evaluates whether the Longines Hydroconquest can credibly serve as a budget-minded alternative to the Rolex Submariner. It focuses on the design language, dive-watch functionality, and overall perceived quality that make the comparison tempting. By breaking down specs like water resistance, movement, and finishing, it aims to clarify where the Hydroconquest truly delivers value—and where expectations should be managed.
Timothée Chalamet’s Red-Carpet Watch Of Choice | Drop #270 - YouTube - Subdial
This drop spotlights Timothée Chalamet’s latest red-carpet watch choice and why it works so well with their fashion-forward styling. It digs into the watch’s design cues and the brand/story context that make it more than just an accessory. The broader theme is how celebrities are using watches as intentional style signals rather than generic luxury add-ons.
Fratello Talks The Talking Points That Define Horology - YouTube - Fratello
This discussion-style video tackles the big recurring topics that shape modern watch enthusiasm and collecting culture. It frames horology as a mix of history, design, mechanics, and evolving industry trends, aiming to give viewers a clearer lens for what matters and why. The overall tone is more reflective than product-driven, inviting deeper appreciation beyond specs and releases.
Hands on: NEW 2026 Longines Hydroconquest - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
A hands-on look at the 2026 Longines Hydroconquest, with attention on what’s new in the latest generation. The video emphasizes the watch’s on-wrist feel, design refinements, and the practical details that matter to enthusiasts considering it as a modern dive-watch option. It’s positioned as a visual-first walkthrough paired with commentary on what the updates mean in real-world wear.
EXPOSED: $540 Watch Strap… Costs $15 to Make (I Have Proof) - YouTube - Scott Adam Lancaster
This exposé claims to document a dramatic markup between a watch strap’s retail price and its production cost. It uses that gap to critique how “luxury” pricing can be driven more by branding and positioning than materials or labor. The video’s bigger point is consumer awareness—encouraging viewers to question value, transparency, and what they’re truly paying for.
The Best Watches Right Now Are $3,500. Here’s Why. - YouTube - The Watch Bros
The argument here is that ~$3,500 has become a sweet spot where build quality, movements, and finishing feel meaningfully “serious” without crossing into pure luxury pricing. The video links this to shifting buyer preferences toward dependable, distinct watches that still feel like a considered purchase. It also suggests that watches in this range can be both wearable daily and potentially collectible, balancing enjoyment and value.
Why De Bethune Is What Rolex CAN’T Be - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
This video contrasts De Bethune with Rolex to explain why the two brands represent fundamentally different kinds of luxury watchmaking. It emphasizes De Bethune’s experimental engineering, avant-garde design language, and artisanal approach as areas where a mass-recognized powerhouse like Rolex simply isn’t trying to compete. The takeaway is that De Bethune appeals to collectors seeking boundary-pushing, niche horology rather than universally recognized prestige.
Inside the Rolex CPO Sourcing War – ADs Are Driving Up Prices - YouTube - Collective Horology
This video examines how Rolex CPO demand and authorized-dealer sourcing practices can contribute to rising market prices. It frames the situation as a push-pull between constrained supply, dealer strategy, and buyer expectations, making the shopping experience more complex for collectors. By mapping incentives across the channel, it aims to explain why “official” pre-owned can still feel like a battleground—and what that signals for the broader luxury-watch market.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #764 : Pac Man Krayon, Summer Swatches, New Breitling, 50 Years Of Eco Drive and Much More - Scottish Watches
This episode covers a wide sweep of watch-world news, starting with a Pac-Man-inspired complication from Krayon that blends playful nostalgia with serious mechanical craft. It then shifts to Breitling’s new Superocean Heritage chronograph, focusing on its vintage-leaning design and how it fits today’s market. The discussion also highlights more accessible releases, including Citizen’s 50th anniversary Eco-Drive and Swatch’s bright “Totally Tropical” lineup. It wraps up with a look at independent watchmaking via Dominique Renaud’s one-hertz concept and the final edition of Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Convexe S².
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2026 H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds 42.8 Steel / Midnight Blue fumé / Strap (3250-1200)) - was bid to $25,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 / Blue (26240ST.OO.1320ST.01)
The Modern Royal Oak Benchmark: AP’s 26240ST Chronograph in Steel
There are few watches that define an era quite like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, and the 2022 reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01 represents a pivotal moment in that lineage. Introduced as part of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary evolution, this 41mm stainless steel chronograph refined the formula rather than reinventing it—sharper case geometry, a subtly redesigned bracelet taper, and most importantly, a new generation of in-house movement that finally brought the chronograph fully into the modern era.
At the heart of the watch is the automatic Caliber 4401, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that replaced the long-serving modular architecture of earlier Royal Oak chronographs. This was a meaningful upgrade, both technically and philosophically. It signaled Audemars Piguet’s continued push toward vertical integration and horological credibility in a segment that increasingly demands more than just iconic design. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, often featuring the special “50-years” oscillating weight on early examples, tying this reference directly to a milestone year in the brand’s history.
Aesthetically, the watch remains unmistakably Royal Oak. The Grande Tapisserie dial—here described as black but often appearing as a deep, shifting tone depending on light—anchors the visual identity, framed by the sharply brushed and polished octagonal bezel. The chronograph layout has been subtly rebalanced, improving legibility while maintaining the symmetry collectors expect. The integrated steel bracelet, still one of the best in the business, continues to deliver that seamless transition from case to wrist that has defined the Royal Oak since 1972.
From a market perspective, the 26240ST sits in an interesting position. Originally retailing in the mid-$40,000 range, the model has consistently traded above retail, with current secondary market values generally clustering in the low-to-mid $50,000s depending on condition and completeness. Listings across major platforms frequently range from roughly $55,000 to $65,000, with premium examples pushing higher, particularly for full sets in strong condition. That said, compared to other Royal Oak references, this model has shown slightly more price stability than explosive growth—an indication that while demand is strong, supply is not as constrained as in earlier hype cycles.
This particular example, offered as a full set with box, papers, and folio, lands squarely in the sweet spot for collectors. The condition—pre-owned with minor wear to the case and bracelet but excellent dial and crystal—suggests a watch that has been enjoyed but not abused. That matters here. The Royal Oak’s finishing is notoriously difficult to restore perfectly, so honest, lightly worn examples often carry more appeal than over-polished ones. The inclusion of all original accessories further reinforces its liquidity and long-term collectibility.
The broader significance of this reference is worth noting. The 26240ST is not just another Royal Oak chronograph; it is the blueprint for what the modern Royal Oak is becoming. It bridges the gap between heritage and contemporary expectations, combining Gérald Genta’s enduring design with a movement that finally matches the watch’s stature. In many ways, this is the Royal Oak Chronograph that collectors had been waiting for.
As the auction approaches its close at 5:25 pm EDT today (Friday, March 27, 2026), the question is not whether this watch will find a buyer, but at what level conviction meets opportunity. Given current market comps and the desirability of early 50th anniversary-era production, a final result in the mid-$50,000 range would feel entirely in line, with upside potential depending on bidding momentum.
For collectors looking for a modern Royal Oak chronograph that balances wearability, pedigree, and mechanical legitimacy, this reference remains one of the most rational—and compelling—entries into the Audemars Piguet universe.
Current bid: $25,500