BuyingTime Daily - March 24, 2026
Markets wobble, watches don’t—PAC-MAN meets haute horology, TAG Heuer goes SoHo, and a Patek 5172G tests the smarter side of today’s market.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world woke up yesterday morning with one eye on Geneva and the other on geopolitics, and unfortunately it’s the latter driving sentiment. Shares across Swatch Group, Richemont, and Watches of Switzerland took a meaningful hit as the Iran conflict rattled confidence, reminding everyone just how exposed luxury still is to global instability. Gulf-region demand has quietly been a pillar of Swiss exports, and when that pillar starts to wobble, markets react fast. That said, there’s already a counter-narrative forming—more measured voices suggest this is less a collapse in demand and more a recalibration after a frothy few years.
On the ground, retail continues to double down on experience, not retreat. TAG Heuer’s new SoHo boutique is a perfect example: compact, curated, and clearly designed to control the narrative around Carrera, Monaco, and Formula 1. The Ryan Gosling–stamped opening signals exactly where the brand wants to sit—somewhere between heritage and Hollywood, with just enough education layered in to make buyers feel like insiders rather than customers.
Product-wise, today’s releases run the full spectrum from deeply serious to delightfully unserious. Greubel Forsey closed a chapter with its final Balancier Convexe S² editions in ceramic, limited to just 22 pieces total and priced accordingly in the “call your banker” range. At the other end of the emotional spectrum, Krayon leaned fully into nostalgia with its PAC-MAN Anywhere, somehow making a video game feel appropriate inside a six-figure complication watch. It shouldn’t work, but it absolutely does.
Collaborations and color continue to carry the middle of the market. Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein delivered another pair of playful but thoughtful pieces, while Richard Mille kept the high-gloss, high-jewelry energy alive with its candy-colored RM 07-01 ceramics. Meanwhile, Seiko did what Seiko does best—quietly reinforcing its credibility with serious tool watches in the new Marinemaster releases, proving once again that not everything needs a celebrity ambassador or a gemstone bezel.
Further down the ladder, the creative energy is arguably even stronger. Selten, TAOS, Tedoro, and Venezianico all leaned into texture, storytelling, and material experimentation, from verdigris dials to Bauhinia-inspired mother-of-pearl executions. These are not watches chasing status—they’re chasing identity, and increasingly, that’s what resonates with newer collectors.
On the review side, things skewed practical but interesting. Bulova’s Super Seville Mini shows that the industry is finally taking smaller sizing seriously again, while Leica continues its slow but credible entry into watchmaking with the ZM 11, blending camera DNA with legitimate mechanical backing. Raymond Weil and Sero Watch Company rounded things out with classically positioned pieces that compete on proportion, finishing, and value rather than hype.
Opinion remains divided on where the industry actually stands. One camp sees cracks forming; the other sees normalization after an unsustainable run-up. The truth, as usual, is probably somewhere in between—less boom, less panic, more discipline.
If you need a break from all that, the video lineup today is strong. There’s a surprisingly thoughtful dive into underrated luxury watches, a speculative but entertaining look at what Tudor might have up its sleeve for 2026, and a behind-the-scenes tour of Audemars Piguet’s London presence that reinforces just how much physical space still matters in a digital-first world. The Krayon PAC-MAN piece also gets its moment on screen, which is worth watching just to see how seriously the industry can take something so inherently playful.
On the auction front, yesterday’s platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 stalled just short of its reserve at $42,855, a small but telling data point in a market that is no longer blindly chasing every modern release. Today’s headliner—the Patek Philippe 5172G in white gold—sits in a much more intellectually satisfying lane. It’s not about hype, it’s about horology, and with bidding currently in the low $40,000s against a market that typically floats higher, it’s exactly the kind of watch that rewards patience over impulse as the auction closes later this afternoon.
All told, today feels like a snapshot of where the watch world is right now: slightly uneasy at the macro level, highly active at the product level, and still endlessly creative where it counts.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Iran war wipes millions off the value of watch industry
The ongoing conflict in Iran has rattled investor confidence in the watch sector, triggering sharp share-price declines across major watch and luxury groups. After a period of strength, Swatch Group slid from above CHF 200 to around CHF 165, while Richemont dropped about 19%, reflecting wider fears around consumer demand and the macro outlook. The selloff also hit retail exposure, with Watches of Switzerland Group down roughly 17%, underscoring how quickly sentiment can turn when geopolitical risk rises. With Gulf markets representing a meaningful share of Swiss watch exports, concerns are mounting that weakened confidence in the region could pressure sales further.
Watch Shopping: TAG Heuer Opens New SoHo Flagship in NYC
TAG Heuer has opened a new flagship boutique at 99 Prince Street in SoHo, presenting a tightly curated lineup centered on Carrera, Monaco, and Formula 1, alongside limited editions and recent releases. The selection reinforces the brand’s current positioning: Carrera as the adaptable chronograph pillar, Monaco as the heritage statement, and Formula 1 as the accessible entry point. Designed around TAG Heuer’s latest retail concept, the 615 sq. ft. space blends modern architecture with cues from Swiss watchmaking and adds educational elements to deepen the in-store experience. The opening was marked by an event featuring ambassador Ryan Gosling, aligning the boutique with culture-forward storytelling and a push for more brand-controlled, immersive retail in key markets.
The Latest Time
Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey’s Final Balancier Convexe S², In A Black And White Ceramic Limited Edition
Greubel Forsey has unveiled a final limited edition of the Balancier Convexe S² in white and black ceramic, with each color limited to 11 pieces. The watch pairs a curved, sporty ceramic case with the brand’s signature high-end finishing, and it’s powered by a hand-wound movement offering a 72-hour power reserve. Built for refined wear rather than extreme use, it is rated to 30 meters of water resistance and highlights technical architecture like its openworked, suspended-bridge construction. The stated price is CHF 295,000 (about $374,000 USD).
Krayon
Krayon Introduce PAC-MAN Anywhere Limited Edition
Krayon’s PAC-MAN Anywhere marks the arcade icon’s 45th anniversary with an ultra-limited run of 15 watches that place PAC-MAN, ghosts, and fruit motifs directly into the time display. It retains the Anywhere model’s core complication set, including a 24-hour indication plus sunrise and sunset times customized to the owner’s latitude. The 39mm platinum case houses a manual-wind movement with a 72-hour power reserve, paired with an onyx dial and 30 meters of water resistance. The listed price is CHF 188,000 (about $238,000 USD).
Louis Erard
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue
Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein expand their collaboration with two blue-dial releases: the Smile-Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue, both in 40mm titanium with 100 meters of water resistance. The Smile-Day Blue uses an automatic Sellita base and adds a playful day indicator that shifts color to distinguish weekdays from weekends, alongside a day/date display. The Tourbillon Régulateur Blue goes more technical with a hand-wound movement, regulator-style display, a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and a 100-hour power reserve. Pricing is CHF 4,000 (about $5,100 USD) for the Smile-Day Blue and CHF 15,900 (about $20,200 USD) for the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue.
Richard Mille
The Richard Mille RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramic Gets Even Sweeter
Richard Mille’s RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramic arrives in three vivid final-series colorways—blush pink, lavender pink, and powder blue—each limited to 50 pieces. The watches use high-tech TZP ceramic cases and a bold graphic approach with rubber appliqués and diamond-set elements, contrasted by polished white-gold case bands set with assorted gems. Inside is the in-house automatic CRMA2 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve and a skeletonized architecture that emphasizes the brand’s technical aesthetic. Each model is priced at $363,000 USD.
Seiko
The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Divers HBF001 And HBF002 JAMSTEC Limited Edition
Seiko adds two top-tier Prospex Marinemaster divers—the HBF001 and the JAMSTEC-linked HBF002—both rated to 300 meters and powered by the high-end Caliber 8L45 with a 72-hour power reserve. While the specifications align across both models, the HBF002 stands out with a blue dial inspired by polar ice and is limited to 1,000 pieces, while the HBF001 keeps a more classic black-dial look. Both include a steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment clasp and are positioned as premium, professionally oriented divers within Seiko’s lineup. Prices are $3,600 USD for the HBF001 and $3,900 USD for the HBF002.
Selten Watch
The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia in Pink and Purple MoP
This Watch Ho & Co. x Selten limited edition takes inspiration from Hong Kong’s Bauhinia flower, pairing a luminous mother-of-pearl base with an intricate “mountain” texture that shifts with the light. It comes in two colorways—light pink and purple—each limited to 200 pieces, housed in a compact 39mm steel case with 50 meters of water resistance. The watch runs on the Miyota 9039 automatic movement and uses heat-treated, skeletonized sword hands that echo the dial’s palette. The price is $1,250 USD.
TAOS Watches
TAOS Unveils Genese and Odonata
TAOS introduced two artistic limited editions—Génèse and Odonata—both in 38mm white-gold cases and built around highly decorative, multi-technique dials. Génèse draws on mineral textures, combining engraving under enamel with stones like black jade and blue agate, while Odonata leans into nature-fantasy imagery with high-relief engraving and diamond setting across a layered dial. Both use movements developed with Telos and emphasize hand-applied decoration aligned to each watch’s theme, while still targeting everyday practicality with sapphire crystals and modern build standards. Prices are CHF 150,000 (about $190,000 USD) for Génèse and CHF 200,000 (about $254,000 USD) for Odonata.
Tedoro
Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab Limited Edition
The Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab is a 39mm integrated-bracelet steel watch built around a vivid mother-of-pearl dial and Eastern Arabic numerals, with “Sarab” (mirage) referencing its shifting, light-catching look. It uses the Miyota 9075 automatic movement, offering a practical GMT function and a stated 42-hour power reserve, while keeping durability in mind with 100 meters of water resistance and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Limited to 300 pieces, it balances a distinctive dial with a wearable, not-overbuilt case and bracelet profile. The price is $785 USD.
Venezianico
Introducing the Venezianico Nereide Verdigris
The Venezianico Nereide Verdigris is defined by a brass dial treated with an oxidation process that creates a one-of-one verdigris patina, shifting between green, turquoise, and blue tones. It’s housed in the brand’s 42mm Nereide diver case and adds a maritime-minded detail with a tungsten bezel insert. Power comes from the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, and the watch is positioned as both a functional diver-style piece and a design tribute to Venice’s aging copper rooftops and waterside textures. It’s priced at $1,395 USD.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bulova
Bulova Super Seville Mini
The Bulova Super Seville Mini is a compact, style-forward watch that leans into Bulova’s 1970s design heritage with a refined 25mm stainless-steel case. Its coin-edge bezel and integrated three-link bracelet reinforce the retro-inspired look while keeping the watch comfortable and wearable. Offered with white mother-of-pearl, red mother-of-pearl, or brushed silver dials, the emphasis is on texture and finishing rather than mechanical complexity. Pricing is positioned accessibly at $495 in steel and $575 in gold-toned steel.
Leica
A Closer Look at the Leica ZM 11
The Leica ZM 11 combines a modern, camera-brand design language with a technical foundation anchored by the automatic Caliber LA-3001 movement (supplied by Chronode) and a 60-hour power reserve. A dual-layer dial creates a strong sense of depth and gradient color play, giving the watch much of its visual identity. The 41mm case comes in titanium or stainless steel, is water-resistant to 100 meters, and includes a quick-change strap system inspired by Leica’s lens-lock mechanism. The lineup spans three models, with pricing described as coming in under $10,000.
Raymond Weil
The new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm :
The Millesime Small Seconds 39mm is presented as an elegant, Art Deco–influenced daily wearer with a slim 39mm stainless-steel case and a distinctive “red grape tuxedo” dial layout. It includes a small-seconds display and Super-LumiNova-treated hands to keep legibility strong in low light. Inside is the self-winding Calibre RW4251, described as reliable, though not especially decorative in its finishing. The review places the retail price at CHF 2,075 and notes it competes well with options from brands like Longines and Nomos.
Sero Watch Company
A Closer Look at the Sero Watch Company Signature
Sero’s debut Signature model aims for classic, enduring proportions with a 37.5mm stainless-steel case and a dial designed to be clean yet characterful. Details like a vertical brushed dial finish, engraved Breguet numerals, and bold hand-blued hands push it toward a more elevated, traditional aesthetic. The watch offers multiple dial colors and strap/bracelet choices, including leather options and a beads-of-rice bracelet for added versatility. It’s powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW210-1b hand-wound movement with notably strong finishing, and the price is listed at €1,199 (with reduced pre-order pricing mentioned).
Opinion Time
According To Ariel: Investors & Brand Finance Managers Are Mistaken That The Watch Industry Is Doing Poorly
The piece argues that much of the “watch industry is struggling” narrative is exaggerated, and that luxury watches are better described as moving through a post-bubble transition than a true slump. It points to real headwinds—geopolitical instability, supply chain disruption, and shaken investor confidence—but frames them as pressures on sentiment and strategy rather than proof of collapsed demand. A key example is the pre-owned market, where inflated prices have corrected, creating the impression of broader weakness even as underlying interest remains strong. The article also emphasizes sustained enthusiasm among younger audiences (driven heavily by social media), suggesting that demand could translate into future sales as those consumers gain purchasing power, with the U.S. market highlighted as a relatively healthy driver.
Watching Time - Videos
True Underrated Iconic Luxury Watches for Less - YouTube - WatchChris
This video highlights a selection of iconic luxury watches that tend to be overlooked, focusing on models that deliver strong heritage and craftsmanship without the usual price premium. The emphasis is on value-for-money pieces that still feel “legit luxury” in design and build, even if they aren’t the most hyped references. By spotlighting less-talked-about brands and models, it encourages collectors to broaden their search beyond the usual headlines. The overall takeaway is that there are credible, prestige-leaning options that can be bought for less while still feeling special.
My CONFIDENT Tudor Predictions for 2026 - YouTube - Adrian Barker
This video is framed around forward-looking Tudor predictions tied to 2026, positioning itself as a confident take on what could be coming from the brand. It’s set up to discuss likely trends, potential releases, and what signals to watch for in Tudor’s design and product direction. The long summary is intentionally light on specifics, so the substance of the predictions is primarily delivered in the video itself. Expect a speculative, enthusiast-driven rundown rather than a recap of confirmed announcements.
Inside The New Home of Audemars Piguet In London (and no, they didn’t offer me a job!) - YouTube - Justin Hast
This video tours Audemars Piguet’s new London space, using the location to illustrate how the brand expresses its identity through architecture, interior design, and atmosphere. It focuses on the visual and experiential elements that shape a boutique visit, emphasizing a polished, immersive environment aligned with AP’s luxury positioning. The creator’s humorous aside about not being offered a job sets an informal tone, but the core is a look at the brand’s presentation and customer experience. It serves as a window into how a top-tier manufacture builds exclusivity through physical retail.
The Craziest Finds at British Watchmakers Day 2026 - YouTube - WatchGecko
This video recaps standout and unusual watches seen at British Watchmakers Day 2026, spotlighting the creativity and technical variety on display. It frames the event as a showcase for modern British horology, where distinctive design choices and inventive engineering can take center stage. Alongside the “wow” pieces, it underscores the broader craft culture and heritage that continues to shape British watchmaking. The result is an energetic highlights reel meant to inspire curiosity and deeper exploration of the makers featured.
I Found the ULTIMATE Watch Collection! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
This video presents a large, impressive watch collection, leaning into visual storytelling to emphasize the variety of brands, styles, and craftsmanship on display. It aims to convey what makes a collection feel “ultimate” by focusing on distinctive features and the appeal of high-end finishing and design. Alongside the showcase aspect, it touches on the history and innovation behind the watches, helping explain why certain pieces are meaningful to enthusiasts. It’s positioned as both an entertaining tour and a celebration of horology as a passion.
GENEVA SWITZERLAND WATCH PROWLING! We walk the streets of Geneva in search of the Coolest Watches! - YouTube - Rob the American
This video takes a street-level tour through Geneva with the goal of spotting and discussing interesting watches and storefronts in one of the world’s key watch cities. It blends travel and shopping energy with watch-enthusiast commentary, using different boutiques and sightings to illustrate the breadth of styles available. Conversations and observations along the way reinforce Geneva’s reputation for craftsmanship and watch culture. It’s equal parts exploration and education, designed to make the watch world feel tangible and accessible.
PAC-MAN in High Watchmaking?! | Krayon Anywhere PAC-MAN - YouTube - Revolution Watch
This video explores the Krayon Anywhere PAC-MAN as an example of how high watchmaking can incorporate playful, pop-cultural themes without losing its technical seriousness. It focuses on the design integration—bringing PAC-MAN elements into the dial and display—while treating the watch as both a functional instrument and a collectible art object. The presentation emphasizes craftsmanship and the thinking behind the concept, positioning it as a fresh kind of luxury storytelling. Overall, it argues that nostalgia and serious horology can coexist in a way that appeals to both collectors and gaming fans.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #763 : Catching Up With An Old Friend - Scottish Watches
Harlan from WristReview returns for a relaxed but wide-ranging conversation about what’s changed in watches over the past year. A major theme is luxury fashion houses (like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermès) pushing further into serious mechanical watchmaking and reshaping the high-end landscape. The discussion also calls out brands that feel less clearly positioned—Blancpain is mentioned specifically—while giving credit to Hublot’s growing creative momentum and noting how Zenith and Omega are navigating their design identities. It’s an episode built around industry-direction talk rather than a single product story.
SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases | SJX Watches
This episode focuses on the “affordable” end of the market and how brands are competing on value, quality, and innovation. Seiko is positioned as trying to reassert itself as a value leader, with attention on models like the King Seiko Vanac (now in titanium) and an upgraded Marinemaster. The hosts also run through noteworthy releases from other brands such as Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, including discussion of Christopher Ward’s in-house GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Overall, it’s a survey of strong new options for buyers who want substance without moving into high-luxury pricing.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2026 Rolex Perpetual 1908 39 Platinum / Ice Blue (52506-0002) - was bid to $42,855 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Patek Philippe Chronograph White Gold / Blue (5172G-001)
Auction Report: The Thinking Man’s Chronograph: Patek Philippe 5172G Blue in White Gold
There are chronographs, and then there are Patek Philippe chronographs. The 2023 Patek Philippe Chronograph ref. 5172G-001 in white gold with a blue dial sits firmly in the latter category—a watch that doesn’t scream for attention, but quietly asserts its place among the most refined manually wound chronographs in modern production.
Introduced as the successor to earlier references like the 5170, the 5172G represents Patek Philippe leaning heavily into its own archives while refining the formula for contemporary collectors. The design is unmistakably vintage-inspired, from the stepped lugs and pump pushers to the syringe hands and tachymeter scale, all cues pulled from mid-century Patek chronographs that today trade in the stratosphere. What makes the 5172G compelling is that it doesn’t feel like a reissue—it feels like a continuation.
At the heart of the watch is the manually wound caliber CH 29-535 PS, one of Patek Philippe’s most respected in-house chronograph movements. It’s a movement that balances traditional architecture with modern engineering, offering a column-wheel chronograph with exceptional finishing and tactile engagement. For collectors, this is the kind of movement you buy not just to own, but to interact with—winding it daily becomes part of the experience.
The 41mm white gold case gives the watch presence without excess, while the blue dial adds just enough sport to what is otherwise a very classical composition. It’s a versatile piece—equally at home under a cuff or paired with something more casual. This particular example, offered with box, papers, and additional literature, presents in pre-owned condition with only light wear, including minor scratches on the case. The dial, hands, and crystal remain excellent, which is where collectors tend to focus their scrutiny.
From a market perspective, the 5172G is an interesting case study. While Patek Philippe as a brand often commands premiums, this reference trades below retail on the secondary market, with recent estimates hovering around the mid-$50,000 range against a retail price just under $100,000. Comparable listings typically fall between roughly $60,000 and $80,000 depending on condition and dial variation, suggesting a relatively accessible entry point into high-end Patek chronographs. That relative “discount” is less a knock on the watch and more a reflection of shifting collector tastes and broader market normalization after the post-pandemic boom.
And that’s where this watch becomes particularly compelling. The 5172G is not a hype piece. It is not a Nautilus or an Aquanaut. It is something better for a certain kind of buyer: a purist’s chronograph, rooted in traditional watchmaking values, with a design language that will likely age far more gracefully than trend-driven pieces.
The auction for this example closes at 4:15 pm EDT today, March 24, 2026. For a collector looking to acquire a serious Patek Philippe chronograph without paying peak-market premiums, this is exactly the kind of opportunity worth watching closely.
Current bid: $42,500