BuyingTime Daily - March 19, 2026
Watch prices tick up, Breitling salutes Concorde, Seiko dives deeper, and a floral Roger Dubuis steals today’s auction spotlight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
March 19 brings a nicely mixed snapshot of the watch world: a market that looks a bit healthier, a heritage-minded brand leaning into history, a few serious conversations about leadership and representation, and a fresh crop of new releases that prove nobody in this industry has any intention of calming down. The headline market takeaway is that February appears to have given collectors and dealers a modest reason to exhale, with the WatchCharts Overall Market Index up 0.6% and the biggest names still doing most of the heavy lifting. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all posted gains, but Patek Philippe especially seems to be enjoying a very good run, helped along by ongoing appetite for the Aquanaut and Nautilus families. Even better, the tone of the recovery sounds less like speculative chaos and more like actual demand, which is usually a healthier sign than a bunch of people convincing themselves a steel sports watch is better than retirement planning.
Elsewhere in industry news, Vacheron Constantin is inviting collectors to bring the old magic back with its first Concours d’Élégance dedicated to timepieces, a Geneva event that feels equal parts celebration, scholarship, and polite flex. At the same time, Wei Koh’s appointment as President of the Jury for the GPHG adds another notable leadership moment to the week, with his reflections underscoring how deeply personal this business can be for the people inside it. On a more structural level, WatchPro’s Women in Watches gathering in the U.S. highlighted the steady push toward broader representation in the American watch business, with executives and industry leaders focusing not just on visibility, but on actual pathways to leadership. Then, because the watch world always insists on reminding everyone that glamour has a dark side, the sentencing of a British Rolex trader who used his business as a front for drug dealing and money laundering offered a useful reminder that luxury watches remain attractive not only to collectors, but also to criminals with extremely bad long-term planning.
Feature coverage today adds a welcome layer of depth. Mauron Musy continues to carve out its very specific lane with technical innovation, tiny production, and a determinedly independent identity, which in 2026 still counts for a lot. Ardra Labs, meanwhile, delivers one of the more interesting genuinely new ideas of the day with The Delta Type, a GMT built to handle the half-hour and 45-minute offset realities that standard GMTs usually ignore. That is the sort of clever niche problem-solving that gives enthusiast watchmaking some life. And for anyone who likes their sparkle with a side of education, the deep look at diamond-set watches serves as a useful reminder that gem-setting at this level is not just decoration. It is engineering, patience, hand skill, and a lot of opportunities to get things wrong if you are not very, very good at your job.
As for the new watches, there is plenty to keep wrists and wallets busy. Awake expands its lacquer-dial artistry with the Atlantis Blue, which sounds like a strong candidate for the “small brand doing something genuinely beautiful” file. Breitling goes full aviation nostalgia with its Concorde-themed Navitimers and adds perpetual calendar muscle for good measure, proving once again that the brand is not allergic to going large, loud, and historically referential all at once. Delma trims down the Shell Star to a more wearable 41mm, Juha Eskola delivers an elegantly offbeat moonphase with real artisanal character, Norqain doubles down on mountain-flavored adventure watches, Out Of Order offers mother-of-pearl with Venetian personality, and Seiko refreshes the Marinemaster line with a new caliber and the kind of practical seriousness that keeps dive-watch people happily occupied for days.
The review side of the ledger is just as lively. G-Shock gets playful with the Joshua Vides collaboration, turning a rugged classic into something that looks sketched into existence. Ming continues its campaign to make restraint look expensive and poetic with the 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher, while Unimatic shows that a stealthy little 36mm field watch can still come packed with surprising specs and attitude. The comparison piece on moonphase watches also adds a nice touch of romance to the day’s reading, surveying brands that treat the complication not just as a technical display, but as a chance to indulge in a little mechanical storytelling.
The videos are a solid cross-section of hobby energy, market chatter, and event-floor enthusiasm. The Windup Watch Fair Dallas roundup is the obvious stop for anyone wanting a quick pulse check on what enthusiasts are buzzing about in person, while Jag’s Watches offers a lively look at British Watchmakers’ Day. There is also room for collector sentiment with Watch Clyde, market forecasting with TimePieceTrading, some value-hunting with ONE Watches, and a dose of watch-adjacent humor from Justin Hast. On the audio front, the Doxa CEO interview is worth a listen for anyone interested in how legacy tool-watch brands are trying to grow sensibly in a market that is becoming more expensive and more competitive at the same time.
At auction, yesterday’s Patek Philippe Celestial made it to $128,500 but still fell far short of reserve, which tells you both how ambitious the seller was and how picky the market can be when six-figure territory is involved. Today’s featured watch takes a very different route into the spotlight with the 2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36, a rose-gold, diamond-set, floral, mother-of-pearl limited edition that is about as subtle as an operatic finale in a chandelier showroom. With a current bid of $5,200, it stands as today’s reminder that the watch market still has room for pieces that are less about stealth wealth and more about unapologetic spectacle. And honestly, that is probably healthier for everybody.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
March 2026 Watch Market Update
In February 2026, the WatchCharts Overall Market Index rose 0.6%, with major brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all posting similar gains. Patek Philippe showed especially strong momentum, up 16.2% year-over-year, fueled by continued demand for Aquanaut and Nautilus models. Mid-tier brands including Cartier and Omega also performed well, while Breitling saw price declines. Overall, the market appears to be strengthening on more “organic” demand rather than the speculative surge patterns of the early 2020s.
Celebrating Heritage and Timeless Elegance
Vacheron Constantin is launching its first-ever Concours d’Élégance dedicated to timepieces on November 10, 2026 in Geneva, inviting submissions of pocket and wristwatches made between 1755 and 1999. The event is positioned as a celebration of the brand’s heritage and of collectors as long-term stewards of that legacy. An expert international jury will evaluate entries on authenticity, elegance, rarity, and emotional resonance. Seven categories—from chiming watches and chronographs to Métiers d’Art and design—underscore the breadth of Vacheron’s historical output, with registration open until April 30, 2026.
GPHG President of Jury: Wei Koh
Wei Koh reflects on a 26-year journey in watchmaking, describing how the craft has given him purpose, passion, and a deep sense of community. He draws parallels to The Godfather to convey the formative relationships and defining moments that shaped his career and worldview. His appointment as President of the Jury for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève represents a major milestone and personal honor. Koh also pays tribute to outgoing president Nicholas Foulkes and emphasizes his commitment to collaboration, creativity, and preserving traditional watchmaking for future generations.
Women in Watches: changing Representation In The US Industry
WatchPro’s Women in Watches event on March 6 brought together more than 60 senior professionals from across the American watch industry to discuss representation, visibility, and leadership pathways. The conversations highlighted women’s growing influence on both the commercial and cultural direction of the category, while also addressing persistent structural barriers. A panel including leaders from Citizen Watch America and the 1916 Company focused on the value of more diverse leadership teams. The overall takeaway centered on tangible opportunities for brands and retailers to strengthen inclusivity and better support women shaping the industry’s future.
British Rolex trader was front for drug dealing and money laundering
Bertie Payne, a luxury watch trader in South East Britain, was sentenced to 15 years in prison for leading a drug distribution and money laundering operation that used his business, About Bezels Ltd, as a front. Investigators uncovered a network moving cocaine, ketamine, and ecstasy with an estimated distribution value exceeding £800,000. During the operation, police seized 38 luxury watches—primarily Rolex—valued at more than £534,000. The assets are being handled under the Proceeds of Crime Act, with the case underscoring how high-value luxury goods can be intertwined with broader criminal enterprises.
Feature Time
Mauron Musy, under the sign of thirteen
Founded in 2013, Mauron Musy has built its reputation on technical innovation—most notably its nO-Ring system, which achieves 300m water resistance without traditional gaskets. With production around 300 pieces per year, the brand emphasizes tight retail partnerships and direct engagement with collectors, especially in Japan, the Middle East, Switzerland, and other key enthusiast markets. As it grows, Mauron Musy is leaning into storytelling around Swiss heritage, family spirit, and craft, while continuing to refine designs and expand manufacturing integration. Pricing has risen to around CHF 28,000 on average, reflecting this push upmarket and the increased in-house capabilities.
Ethical hacker turned horologist reveals first timepiece
Nava Krishnan—an ethical hacker turned horologist—has launched Ardra Labs and debuted The Delta Type, designed to solve a real-world GMT problem for Indian travelers: half-hour time-zone offsets. The watch uses a patented PAN-GMT approach so it can track two time zones even when one has a 30- or 45-minute offset, addressing gaps that standard GMT watches can’t cover. Unveiled at Mumbai Watch Week, it pairs Sellita’s SW-330 automatic GMT movement with design cues inspired by Indian architecture in a 39mm steel case with 100m water resistance. The initial run is limited to 300 pieces and priced at $2,450 on a rubber strap.
Inside Diamond-Set Watches: Craftsmanship, Stones & Settings | WatchTime
Diamond-set watches sit at the crossroads of jewelry and horology, and the piece highlights how much of their value comes from selection, design, and setting skill—not just the stones themselves. It walks through how watch diamonds are chosen (especially small stones suited to pavé) and how the setting craft—snow, invisible, and other styles—demands extreme precision to secure stones without compromising structure. The article also notes how diamond-setting has expanded beyond precious metals into materials like steel and titanium, opening the door to sportier and more versatile designs. Ultimately, the watches become showcases of technical mastery as much as decorative luxury.
The Latest Time
Awake
Awake Sơn Mài Atlantis Blue
Awake expands its Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf collection with the Atlantis Blue, a limited edition of 100 pieces featuring a fully handcrafted gradient lacquer dial inspired by ocean depths and the Atlantis myth. The dial is produced by master lacquerers in Hanoi using layered silver leaf, lacquer, and pigments in a process that takes over ten hours per dial. Power comes from the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour reserve, paired with French-made suede straps. Price is about $2,340 (converted from €2,000).
Breitling
Breitling Launches The Navitimer Tribute To Concorde In Steel, A Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum, And A Full-Platinum LE
Breitling marks the 50th anniversary of Concorde’s maiden flight with limited-edition Navitimer releases led by the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde, featuring a dark blue dial inspired by the view from high altitude and “White Bird” contrasting sub-dials. Limited to 593 pieces, it uses the in-house B01 with a 70-hour power reserve in a 43mm case. The launch also includes Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar variants that combine chronograph functionality with a perpetual calendar complication. Pricing is about $37,440 (converted from €32,000) for the steel-and-platinum version and about $57,330 (converted from €49,000) for the full platinum model.
Delma
The Steel Delma Shell Star Automatic, now in 41mm
Delma updates the Shell Star Automatic into a more compact 41mm cushion-shaped steel case while keeping the bold tool-watch character intact. The watch improves ergonomics, offers 200m water resistance, and includes a unidirectional bezel plus highly legible luminous markers and hands with a date at 3 o’clock. Inside is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic running at 28,800 vph with a 41-hour power reserve. Starting price is about $1,344 on bracelet (converted from CHF 1,090) or about $1,293 on rubber (converted from CHF 1,050).
Juha Eskola
Finnish Indie Watchmaker Juha Eskola Presents the N2 Moonphase
Juha Eskola’s N2 Moonphase builds on the N2 platform with a refined 37mm case (steel or 14k yellow gold) featuring hand-hammered concave scallops and a tuxedo-style dial layout. The key change is a double moonphase display at six o’clock, replacing the earlier small-seconds execution and emphasizing the watch’s classical character. Power comes from a refurbished Longines 30L movement, finished in-house, with roughly a 36-hour reserve. Pricing is about $15,210 (converted from EUR 13,000) for steel and about $17,550 (converted from EUR 15,000) for gold, excluding VAT.
Norqain
Norqain Introduces COSC-Certified Adventure Models with Mountain DNA
Norqain expands its Adventure line with three COSC-certified 40mm models featuring a mountain-pattern dial, 200m water resistance, and a unidirectional bezel with integrated crown guards. They use the Norqain caliber N08 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback, and pricing runs from $3,790 to $4,120 depending on strap or bracelet. The limited Adventure Neverest 40mm Orange adds a black DLC case and compass bezel plus a gradient dial, while supporting the Butterfly Help Project with 10% of proceeds. The Neverest pricing is $4,450 on rubber or $4,990 on bracelet.
Out Of Order
The New Out Of Order Watches Casanova 38 MOP Automatic Collection
Out Of Order’s Casanova 38 MOP Automatic collection introduces three Venice-inspired models with mother-of-pearl dials (Giudecca Blue, Rialto Ember, and San Marco Ivory) in 316L steel cases with mixed brushed and polished finishing. The watches aim for everyday versatility with 100m water resistance and a Seiko NH35 automatic movement offering a 41-hour power reserve. Design details include Super-LumiNova indexes and distinctive branding touches such as a logo on the seconds hand. Price is about $702 (converted from €600), and the brand positions the line as an approachable step up in finishing and style.
Seiko
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and JAMSTEC Limited Edition HBF002
Seiko’s Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver refresh brings two models that keep the iconic 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver-inspired case architecture at 42.6mm and over 14mm thick. The HBF001 leans classic with a black aesthetic and updated dial details, while the JAMSTEC-linked HBF002 adds a blue ceramic bezel and a textured dial referencing marine research, limited to 1,000 pieces. Both models introduce the new Calibre 8L45 with improved performance and up to a 72-hour power reserve, alongside a ceramic bezel insert and 300m water resistance. Pricing is about $4,446 (converted from €3,800) for the HBF001 and about $4,797 (converted from €4,100) for the HBF002.
Wearing Time - Reviews
G-Shock
From ‘Reality To Idea’ With The Casio G-Shock X Joshua Vides DW5600JV-7 Watch
The G-Shock x Joshua Vides DW5600JV-7 translates Vides’ “Reality to Idea” concept into a cartoon-sketch aesthetic, using a bright white base with graphic black linework that makes the watch look illustrated. Despite the playful look, it retains classic G-Shock toughness with a resin case and 200m water resistance. Inside is a standard quartz digital module (Module 3525) with practical functions like stopwatch and alarm. The limited-edition pricing is $180.
Ming
Living Life Like It’s Golden: A Close-Up of the Ming 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher
Ming’s 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher is a highly exclusive anniversary release, limited to 20 pieces, pairing a refined La Joux-Perret movement with a rose-gold case and a guilloché dial made by Kari Voutilainen. A sapphire crystal dial layer adds a contemporary, light-catching effect while keeping the design focused on depth and detail rather than flash. The watch integrates the chronograph actuation into a clean, minimal case profile and uses careful lume application to maintain legibility. Price is about $61,440 (converted from CHF 48,000), before taxes.
Unimatic
UNIMATIC Modello Cinque U5S-BLN Review: A Stealthy Higher-End 36mm Field Watch
Unimatic’s Modello Cinque U5S-BLN is a limited-edition 36mm field watch with a stealthy black DLC-coated steel case and an unexpectedly serious 300m water-resistance rating. Although compact, the wide dial and lug geometry help it wear larger, while the glossy black dial is paired with UNILIGHT luminous hour markers for strong low-light readability. It runs on the Swiss Sellita SW200-1b automatic movement, positioning it above more entry-level offerings in the line. Price is $1,390, and it ships with both a black leather strap and a khaki NATO-style strap.
Comparing Time
To the Moon and Back: Eight Creative Moonphase Watches
This piece surveys eight inventive takes on the moonphase complication, framed by the long-standing human fascination with the moon as both inspiration and timekeeper. It highlights how brands blend technical ambition with visual storytelling, from ultra-precise moon displays to more poetic, artistic interpretations. Standout examples include Hermès’ approach using rotating subdials to show lunar phases for both hemispheres, and travel-friendly concepts like dual moonphase indications. Overall, the selection shows how modern watchmaking continues to reinvent a classic complication through design, mechanics, and cultural symbolism.
Watching Time - Videos
The Best Watches From Windup Watch Fair Dallas 2026 - YouTube - Relative Time
This video highlights standout watches shown at the 2026 Windup Watch Fair in Dallas, giving viewers a quick tour of notable brands and models from the event. It focuses on what made certain pieces memorable—whether that’s design, execution, or overall wrist presence—while capturing the broader mood of the fair. The result is a useful snapshot of current enthusiast trends and what’s drawing attention on the show floor.
5 Things I LOVE About Being a Watch Collector - YouTube - Watch Clyde
This video is a personal, enthusiasm-driven look at why collecting watches is so satisfying, from the thrill of discovering new pieces to the community that forms around the hobby. It leans into the emotional side of collecting—how specific watches can carry stories and meaning over time. It also touches on the appreciation of craftsmanship and the deeper enjoyment that comes from learning how watches are made.
What’s Coming to the Watch Market in 2026… - YouTube - TimePieceTrading
This video outlines what to expect in the watch market in 2026, including shifts in design direction, technology, and changing buyer preferences. It discusses how brands may adapt their strategies to stay relevant as the market evolves. The video also calls out themes like sustainability and the growing role of smart or tech-forward features in shaping consumer demand.
Four Married Men Episode 8: Boomerang Watches - YouTube - Justin Hast
Episode 8 centers on “Boomerang watches,” using the concept as a springboard for humor and commentary on style, personality, and the role accessories play in everyday life. The episode’s dynamic comes from the group’s contrasting tastes and practical considerations, paired with comedic back-and-forth. It’s positioned as light entertainment with a watch-themed hook that ties into self-expression.
I Went to British Watchmakers’ Day 2026… This Watch Blew Me Away - YouTube - Jag’s Watches
This video recaps British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 and spotlights a particularly impressive watch that stood out for its craftsmanship and design. It conveys the energy of the event and the chance it provides to see a wide range of work from British brands and makers. The broader message is about the strength of British horology and the enthusiasm it continues to generate among collectors.
The Best Value Watches Just Dropped! - YouTube - ONE Watches
This video rounds up newly released watches positioned as strong “value for money,” focusing on what you get for the price in terms of design, specs, and overall quality. It walks through multiple options to suit different tastes, aiming to help viewers narrow down practical buys. The emphasis is on affordability without sacrificing solid materials and credible watchmaking.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Doxa CEO Jan Edocs
This episode of The Business of Watches features Jan Edocs, CEO of Doxa, discussing how the century-old Swiss brand is working to grow while staying grounded in its dive-watch heritage. The conversation focuses on Doxa’s push to strengthen storytelling and broaden distribution beyond primarily online sales into a larger global retail footprint, targeting 300+ locations across markets like the U.S., Japan, the Middle East, and Australia. Edocs also addresses real operational pressures—cost inflation and tariffs—and why clear brand messaging matters more as the market shifts toward higher-priced offerings. It’s a strategy-heavy listen on positioning a legacy tool-watch brand for modern buyers.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2015 Patek Philippe Celestial Platinum / Blue (6102P-001) - was bid to $128,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36 Rose Gold / Diamond-Set / MOP/Diamond-Set with Flowers and Leaves / Strap - Limited to 88 Pieces (RDDBVE0049)
Auction Report: Garden Party, Geneva Style
There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that seem mildly offended you even asked. This 2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36 in rose gold belongs firmly in the second camp. Reference RDDBVE0049 is less a daily wearer than a miniature exercise in watchmaking theater, pairing a 36 mm rose-gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial, hand-finished floral decoration, diamonds across the bezel and lugs, and the kind of visual drama Roger Dubuis has long used to separate itself from the more buttoned-up corners of Swiss watchmaking. Limited to 88 pieces, it was never meant to be common, subtle, or remotely shy.
The Velvet line has long been Roger Dubuis’s answer to the idea that women’s watches should be both mechanically serious and unapologetically decorative. The Blossom models, in particular, helped define that formula by combining high jewelry cues with métiers d’art dial work and the brand’s in-house automatic caliber RD821. In this version, the flowers and leaves are rendered in carved enamel over a mother-of-pearl base, with rose-gold branches tying the scene together and diamonds placed at the center of the blossoms for extra sparkle. It is the sort of dial that reminds you Roger Dubuis has never been interested in doing “nice” when it can do extravagant instead.
From a technical standpoint, the watch brings more to the table than its jewelry-first appearance might suggest. The automatic RD821 movement has been a familiar and respectable part of the Velvet story, offering the kind of Swiss mechanical credibility collectors want when the exterior is doing this much visual heavy lifting. The 36 mm size also feels right for the watch. It is large enough to give the dial room to breathe and show off its layered textures, but still restrained enough to preserve the elegance that the Velvet collection is built around. This is not a piece that relies on sheer case diameter to make an impression. It earns attention the old-fashioned way, with craftsmanship, finishing, and a great deal of confidence.
As for value, this is where things get interesting. Market listings for RDDBVE0049 and closely related examples suggest asking prices that land broadly in the mid-$20,000s on the low end and can stretch much higher at specialty dealers, with at least one retail-style listing reaching into the low-to-mid $70,000 range. That spread is wide, but not unusual for a niche, gem-set limited-edition watch from a brand that inspires passion in some corners and caution in others. Roger Dubuis pieces often live in that strange space where artistry and rarity are obvious, but resale depth is not always as robust as it is for the usual blue-chip sports-watch suspects. In plain English, this is a beautiful watch with real substance, but it is also the kind of watch that needs the right buyer, not just any buyer.
That dynamic may work in favor of an auction bidder. This example is unworn, comes with box and papers, and dates to 2025, which means it checks nearly every box for someone who wants the full presentation and near-boutique condition without boutique pricing. For a collector of expressive modern dress watches, or for someone who appreciates the odd, glamorous corner where haute horlogerie meets jewelry design, it has real appeal. And because it sits outside the usual Rolex, Patek, and Audemars Piguet stampede, there is at least a chance that it could slip through at a level that feels surprisingly rational for something this ornate and this scarce.
The auction ends at 1:50 p.m. EDT today, Thursday, March 19, 2026, and it should attract attention from buyers who want something mechanical, feminine, lavish, and quite a bit rarer than the average diamond-set luxury watch. This is not a watch for minimalists, spreadsheet collectors, or anyone who thinks beige is an adventurous color choice. It is a watch for someone who wants rose gold, flowers, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and the satisfaction of knowing only 87 other people in the world could conceivably show up wearing the same thing. In a market full of watches trying desperately to look tougher, cooler, and more “versatile,” this Roger Dubuis takes the far more entertaining route. It simply blooms.
Current bid: $5,200