BuyingTime Daily - March 16, 2026
Rolex’s Oscars greenroom, TAG Heuer’s historic new CEO, Swatch’s AI-designed watches, fresh releases from Timex and Beaubleu, and a platinum-titanium AP Royal Oak at auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world opens the week with a reminder that Rolex still knows how to stage a scene. At the 2026 Oscars last night, the brand’s greenroom leaned into the signature Rolex palette with green velvet, brushed metal, and champagne-gold accents, creating a setting that felt more like a gallery than a lounge. Instead of filling the room with screens, portraits of Oscar winners took center stage, reinforcing the brand’s long-running relationship with cinema and its preference for timeless aesthetics over digital spectacle. Meanwhile, a major leadership shift arrived at TAG Heuer, where Béatrice Goasglas has been named CEO, becoming the first woman to lead the 166-year-old brand. Her task is clear: reinvigorate growth, sharpen the strategy behind core collections, and steer the brand forward as it navigates a competitive luxury landscape. In the more playful corner of the industry, Swatch rolled out its AI-driven “AI Dada” customization tool in the United States, letting customers design their own watch with a text prompt and receive a one-of-a-kind piece in about five days—proof that personalization is quickly becoming part of the watchmaking conversation.
Feature coverage today stretches across both the philosophical and the practical sides of collecting. A new installment of Bring a Loupe highlights everything from a rare quartz Vacheron Constantin 222 to a Miami Vice–era Ebel linked to Don Johnson’s Sonny Crockett, along with vintage Yema chronographs that are quietly gaining collector attention. Another feature dives into the technical difference between openworked and skeletonized watches, explaining how modern machining has allowed watchmakers to expose the inner mechanics in increasingly intricate ways. There’s also a thoughtful look at whether saving for a Rolex Submariner still makes sense in 2026, balancing the model’s enduring prestige against changing market dynamics. Meanwhile, design experimentation is on display through Samuel Ross’s collaboration with Hublot on the Big Bang Unico SR_A, a ceramic chronograph that prioritizes functionality and airflow through its distinctive honeycomb structure. Add in an exploration of oil-filled watch cases and a profile of independent pioneer Vincent Calabrese—whose movement-as-sculpture philosophy helped reshape modern horology—and the day’s features offer plenty of perspective on how creativity and engineering continue to shape the industry.
New releases keep the momentum going across several corners of the market over the weekend. Beaubleu has teamed up with the Monnaie de Paris for the La Pièce series, using minting techniques to create richly textured dials inside a 39mm case powered by a France Ebauches automatic movement. Erebus delivers a practical twist on the field watch with its Twenty-Four model, emphasizing a full 24-hour dial layout and offering multiple sizes with a Miyota automatic inside. Over at Timex, the brand leans into playful nostalgia with a Peanuts-themed pickleball capsule that places Snoopy onto a trio of approachable watches, including a Weekender, a Marlin Quartz, and a Marlin Automatic.
Hands-on reviews today span a wide spectrum of watchmaking. Certina revisits its heritage with the modern DS-2, a robust tool watch powered by the Powermatic 80 movement that manages to feel vintage-inspired without drifting into faux aging. At the high end, Chopard experiments with automotive-inspired architecture in the Zagato Lab One Concept, a skeletal tourbillon watch built around a lightweight tubular framework. Citizen offers practical travel capability through the Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT, while Girard-Perregaux goes full spectacle with the Planetarium Tri-Axial tourbillon and its rotating celestial display. Elsewhere, Maen continues refining its Hudson diver, Pequignet demonstrates French mechanical strength with the Royale Paris Icy Blue and its in-house Calibre Royal, Rolex owners weigh in on the everyday wearability of the Land-Dweller 36, and RZE shows how titanium pilot watches can still deliver strong value.
Comparisons and buying guides round out the day’s reading with several collector-friendly angles. A collaborative GMT from Nodus and Raven channels some Rolex Explorer II DNA at a far more approachable price, while a guide to sub-40mm mechanical chronographs highlights models from Zenith, Raymond Weil, and Audemars Piguet. Another roundup explores credible alternatives to the Rolex Submariner from brands like Omega, Tudor, Seiko, and Unimatic, and a head-to-head showdown compares the iconic Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 with the Overseas Self-Winding—heritage elegance versus modern versatility.
The road to Watches and Wonders is also heating up, with early previews suggesting that the 2026 edition in Geneva will be one of the largest yet, featuring 66 exhibiting brands and renewed participation from Audemars Piguet as it celebrates its 150th anniversary. The coming show is expected to set the tone for the industry’s next wave of releases, especially with milestone moments anticipated from Patek Philippe and Rolex.
On the editorial side, a thoughtful commentary argues that artificial intelligence will never fully replace humans in the luxury sector. The reasoning is simple: luxury buyers ultimately value craftsmanship, storytelling, and personal interaction—qualities that still depend on human skill and emotion. AI may streamline certain processes, but the magic behind a finely made mechanical watch remains deeply human.
Today’s video lineup offers plenty to watch while the markets tick along. Highlights include a deep dive into microbrand standouts, a look at how Cartier quietly became one of the most influential watchmakers in the world, a behind-the-scenes tour of Tudor production, and several analyses of the shifting Rolex market. Other videos explore collecting philosophies, industry critiques, and speculation about future releases, providing a broad snapshot of the watch conversation happening online.
And finally, in the auction corner, Friday’s listing for the 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee edition closed at $5,775 but failed to meet its reserve, leaving the door open for offers. Attention now turns to the titanium-and-platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331IP, currently bidding around $40,500 ahead of its late afternoon close. With its mix of lightweight titanium construction and platinum bezel flash, it remains one of the more intriguing modern Royal Oak variants—and the kind of watch that tends to quietly attract serious collectors.
—Michael Wolf
News Time
Step inside the 2026 Rolex Oscars greenroom
Rolex’s 2026 Oscars greenroom leans into the brand’s signature aesthetic with green velvet paired with brushed metal and champagne-gold finishes. Instead of relying on video screens, the space highlights portraits of Oscar-winning stars, reinforcing a more timeless, gallery-like feel. The design underscores Rolex’s long-running connection to film while emphasizing craftsmanship and visual harmony throughout the room.
TAG Heuer Calls On US President To Lead The Brand To Growth
TAG Heuer has named Béatrice Goasglas CEO, making her the first woman to lead the company in its 166-year history after the sudden departure of Antoine Pin. Goasglas previously served as president of the Americas and steps in as the brand works to reverse a multi-year sales decline and slipping industry rank. Her focus will be on sharpening strategy and innovation across core collections and partnerships like Formula 1, while also evaluating what’s next for the Connected smartwatch line.
You Can Now Make Your Own Unique Swatch Using Its ‘AI Dada’ Tool
Swatch has introduced its AI Dada tool in the U.S., letting customers generate a custom watch design by submitting a prompt of up to 300 words. The resulting quartz watch is produced and shipped in roughly five days for $195, offering a fast, personalized route to a one-off piece. Each design is unique and marked “1/1,” and users can tailor options within the New Gent 41 format while drawing on Swatch’s deep archive of past styles.
Feature Time
Bring a Loupe: A Quartz Vacheron 222, A Sonny Crockett Ebel, A Trio Of Vintage Yemas, And More
This installment spotlights a varied set of notable watches, led by a rare quartz Vacheron Constantin 222 and the Miami Vice–linked Ebel 1911 associated with Don Johnson’s character. It also dives into vintage Yema pieces, pointing to renewed collector interest in overlooked chronographs. The column mixes appreciation with buyer-beware guidance, including a cautionary example of a misidentified Tudor Ranger to underline the importance of diligence in the vintage market.
Do You Know The Difference Between Openworked And Skeletonized Watches? You Should
This article clarifies the often-muddled distinction between openworked and skeletonized watches, noting that “openworked” can sometimes be used loosely in marketing. Skeletonization involves intentionally cutting away movement components to reveal the mechanics, while openworked pieces may simply use transparent or partially transparent dials. It also explains how modern tools like CNC machining have expanded what’s possible, enabling cleaner, more intricate designs while still showcasing traditional craft.
Is Saving For A Rolex Submariner Worth It In 2026?
This feature examines whether putting money aside for a Rolex Submariner still makes sense in 2026, weighing market trends, brand reputation, and the broader economic backdrop. It considers the Submariner’s investment narrative versus the possibility that other watches could offer stronger value or less financial risk. Beyond the numbers, it also discusses the watch’s cultural prestige and emotional pull, encouraging buyers to be clear on whether they’re motivated by status, history, or long-term value.
Samuel Ross and Hublot’s new Big Bang is ‘driven by functionality first’
Samuel Ross’s collaboration with Hublot results in the Big Bang Unico SR_A, a limited 200-piece chronograph designed with wearability and practicality as the starting point. The watch pairs a monochrome ceramic case with a honeycomb-pattern rubber strap, aiming for comfort and a clean, contemporary look while showcasing the Unico chronograph movement. The perforated, honeycomb approach is presented as more than styling: it reduces visual mass and improves airflow to help minimize sweat during wear.
The ABCs of Time: Why Are Some Watch Cases Filled with Oil?
This explainer looks at the niche world of oil-filled watches and why some brands intentionally replace air with oil inside the case. It outlines practical benefits like improved legibility and reduced distortion—especially relevant underwater—while also noting that certain approaches can dramatically enhance water resistance. Because fully oil-filled designs generally don’t pair well with traditional mechanical movements, many examples lean quartz, making the appeal as much about the unique visual experience as it is about performance.
Vincent Calabrese Turns Watch Movements Into Sculptures
This profile traces how Vincent Calabrese reshaped modern independent watchmaking by turning movements into the main event rather than hiding them behind cases. It revisits his breakthrough Golden Bridge concept and later innovations like the flying tourbillon, highlighting how he pushed mechanical artistry forward during and after the quartz crisis. The piece also covers his role in advancing the independent scene through organizations like the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, and emphasizes his playful, unconventional aesthetic built around movement-as-sculpture.
The Latest Time
Beaubleu
Beaubleu and the Monnaie de Paris Join Forces with La Pièce 1 & 2
Beaubleu partnered with the Monnaie de Paris to release two limited-edition models—La Pièce no. 1 and La Pièce no. 2—each limited to 888 pieces per colorway, using the mint’s dial-making techniques to create distinctive textures and relief details. Both share a 39mm steel case with hollowed flanks, sweeping lugs, and a hidden crown, but La Pièce no. 1 emphasizes a concave stepped dial with a floating seconds hand while La Pièce no. 2 is more ornate with polished bas-relief finishing. Each runs on a France Ebauches automatic movement with a 46-hour power reserve and offers multiple dial colors plus interchangeable mesh bracelet or leather strap options. Pricing is listed at €1,790 (about $2,060) on leather or €1,890 (about $2,180) on mesh.
Erebus
Erebus Twenty-Four
Erebus’ Twenty-Four puts a practical twist on the classic field watch by centering the display around a 24-hour (military time) format instead of the usual 12-hour layout. It comes in 38mm and 40mm case sizes with a wide range of dial variations, pairing straightforward legibility with a robust stainless-steel build, sapphire crystal, and lume. Inside is a modified Miyota 9000-series automatic movement with roughly a 40–42 hour power reserve, and the watch ships with both a color-matched leather strap and an additional NATO strap for versatility. The pricing is $499 for the 38mm and $599 for the 40mm.
Timex
Timex x Peanuts Pickleball Series
Timex teams up with Peanuts for a pickleball-themed trio that places Snoopy into playful on-court scenes across three different models. The lineup includes a 37mm Weekender with a recycled-plastic strap priced at $169, a 38mm Marlin Quartz at $249 featuring a floating pickleball seconds hand, and a 40mm Marlin Automatic at $349 powered by a Miyota automatic movement. The collection is positioned as approachable, giftable fun while still offering solid specs and recognizable Timex value. Overall, it’s a lighthearted capsule that keeps the designs whimsical without pushing prices out of reach.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Certina
Three Weeks With The Modern Certina DS-2
The modern Certina DS-2 aims to capture the spirit of the late-1960s original while still working as a genuinely capable everyday tool watch. Its striking red dial leans into vintage inspiration, but the build is thoroughly modern, including a robust case and a Powermatic 80 movement. After weeks of wear—including swimming in the Pacific—it comes across as versatile, resilient, and easy to live with. The review emphasizes that it avoids faux-aging while still feeling authentic to the DS-2 lineage.
Chopard
Coachbuilder Meets Watchmaker on the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept
Chopard’s Zagato Lab One Concept is built around an avant-garde “chassis” concept, using a skeletal framework of ceramicised titanium tubes to prioritize rigidity while minimizing weight. The watch essentially replaces the traditional dial with an architectural display built around Zagato branding and an openworked presentation inspired by engine components, paired with a one-minute tourbillon. Despite the technical showmanship and bold form, the piece is designed to remain wearable and comfortable, and it ships with both a technical fabric strap and a calfskin option. The review frames it as a clear statement of experimentation, produced in a very small run of 19 pieces.
Citizen
Hands-On: The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT
Citizen’s Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT is positioned as a practical, affordable travel watch with a field-watch sensibility and the convenience of light-powered charging. The GMT setup is a hybrid approach: the hour hand can jump forward but not backward, which can be a drawback when moving across time zones in both directions. The hands-on notes strong legibility and a well-finished build, including an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that supports the watch’s “use it anywhere” intent. Overall, it reads as a value-driven GMT that’s easy to recommend for buyers who want capability without the usual mechanical-GMT price jump.
Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri-Axial Tourbillon Watch Hands-On: Bulging With Earth
The Planetarium Tri-Axial is an ultra-high-end spectacle built around a triple-axis tourbillon that rotates in three dimensions, emphasizing animation and mechanical theater. Its 18k pink gold case is substantial at 48mm, and the display includes a hand-painted titanium globe along with celestial-style indications like moon phase and day/night. Even with its size, the hands-on notes it’s engineered to sit flat and wear comfortably, helped by an elegant blue alligator strap. The watch is presented as a collector-level statement where craftsmanship and visual impact take priority over restraint.
Maen
Maen Hudson MK5 Watch Review: An Incremental Update For A Mainstay Diver
The Maen Hudson 38 MK5 updates the brand’s core diver with subtle refinements rather than a full redesign, keeping the familiar 38mm footprint while pushing water resistance to 300 meters. Changes like a polished ceramic bezel insert and an upgraded bracelet with quick-release features modernize the package, while a slightly thicker, more vintage-leaning case shape shifts the feel on-wrist. The review likes the textured dial and syringe handset, but flags details like mixed finishing on lugs and endlinks and lume that could be stronger. It’s characterized as a solid, dependable diver anchored by the La Joux-Perret G100, even if it feels more like an incremental maintenance step than a leap forward.
Pequignet
Pequignet Royale Paris Icy Blue
Pequignet’s Royale Paris Icy Blue centers on a textured 39.5mm dial meant to evoke a winter Jura landscape, combining multiple finishing techniques to keep the surface lively while maintaining readability. The display packs in several indications—dual moon phase, day-date, and power reserve—yet the review notes the layout stays coherent rather than busy. Inside is the in-house Calibre Royal, notable for integrating complications on a single plate and delivering a long 96-hour power reserve, with components sourced locally around the manufacture. Overall, it’s presented as a blend of distinctive French design language and serious mechanical substance.
Rolex
Rolex Land-Dweller 36 owner’s review
The owner’s perspective on the Rolex Land-Dweller 36 argues the watch makes more sense in daily wear than early reactions suggested, especially thanks to its slim 9.6mm profile and balanced 36mm proportions. Design cues nod to vintage Rolex while still feeling modern, and the integrated flat-link Jubilee bracelet is called out for comfort and a more “complete” integrated look. Performance is a highlight, with the in-house Calibre 7135 described as running extremely accurately—around half a second per day in real use. Even the debated honeycomb dial is framed as something that ultimately supports the watch’s slightly futuristic character.
RZE
Hands-On With The New RZE Resolute Type A — A Whole Lot Of Pilot’s Watch For Your Money
The RZE Resolute Type A is a modern pilot-style watch built in UltraHex-coated Grade 2 titanium, aiming to deliver durability and lightness at an approachable price point. It uses an automatic Miyota caliber 82S0 with a 42-hour power reserve and pairs that with 100m water resistance for real everyday versatility. The hands-on emphasizes that the bead-blasted finishing and crisp dial feel more premium than the pricing suggests, even if the crown action isn’t perfectly smooth. Overall, it’s positioned as strong value in the pilot-watch space, with design rooted in historical aviation cues.
Comparing Time
Affordable GMT With Explorer II DNA: Nodus x Raven Watches TrailTrekker Basecamp
This comparison-style piece looks at the Nodus x Raven Watches TrailTrekker Basecamp as a budget-friendly GMT that borrows some of the visual “Explorer II” playbook while aiming to stay distinct. It emphasizes the watch’s mix of everyday versatility and travel-ready functionality, positioning it as something you can wear casually but still rely on for real use. The write-up also highlights the collaboration’s attention to build details and finishing, arguing it delivers strong quality without a luxury price. Overall, it frames the TrailTrekker Basecamp as a compelling option for buyers who like the Explorer II vibe but want an affordable alternative.
Buying Guide: Small But Mighty II, Six Mechanical Chronographs Under 40mm
This buying guide compares six sub-40mm mechanical chronographs for enthusiasts who want compact sizing without giving up capability or design credibility. It highlights a spread from more attainable options like the Atelier Nossedh AN.01 and Raymond Weil Millésime Chronograph to higher-tier choices like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, plus heavy-hitters such as the Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue. The piece underscores how each watch approaches the same goal—wearable proportions with serious chronograph hardware—through different aesthetics, movements, and price points. The overall takeaway is that the “small chronograph” category is thriving, with strong options across multiple budgets.
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Submariner Alternatives In 2026
This roundup compares five notable substitutes for the Rolex Submariner, chosen to span a range of styles and budgets while keeping the core “go-anywhere dive watch” appeal. The list includes heavy contenders like the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome,” plus options that shift size and presence like the Rolex Sea-Dweller. It also brings in a strong-value Japanese pick with Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 and a budget-friendly minimalist option in the Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver. The piece reinforces that there are plenty of credible alternatives depending on whether you prioritize heritage, specs, or price.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding
This head-to-head compares two gold Vacheron Constantin icons: the Historiques 222, prized for its 1977-rooted story and slim, compact elegance, and the Overseas Self-Winding, valued for its more modern proportions and daily-wear versatility. The 222 is framed as the more historically loaded, refined statement—especially with its 37mm sizing and ultra-slim profile—while the Overseas leans practical with a 41mm case and interchangeable strap system. Both are praised for finishing and craftsmanship, but the decision is positioned as a choice between romance and heritage versus flexibility and contemporary usability. In the end, the comparison suggests your preference hinges on whether you want a faithful nod to a classic or a modern luxury sports watch built for variety.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Perspective: One Month to Watches and Wonders 2026—What Our Predictions Tell You Before We’re There
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 is framed as the event’s most ambitious edition yet, with 66 exhibiting brands and a new partnership with the Montreux Jazz Festival that signals a broader cultural push. The preview highlights major expected storylines, including Audemars Piguet’s return to the show alongside its 150th anniversary, plus anticipated anniversary-driven moves from Patek Philippe and Rolex. It also points to the rising stakes for exhibitors as standout releases from non-participating brands raise expectations ahead of Geneva. The piece positions the coming week of coverage as an early read on where trends and innovation in the industry are headed.
Editorial Time
According To Ariel: Why Artificial Intelligence (AI) Will Never Truly Replace Humans In The Luxury Industry
This editorial argues that AI is unlikely to fundamentally disrupt luxury because the category is built on human effort, intention, and emotional resonance. While AI can improve efficiency and support parts of design or operations, luxury buyers often value the story of craftsmanship—time, skill, and artistry—which is inseparable from people. It also emphasizes that authentic, high-touch human interaction remains central to the luxury purchase experience, with consumers preferring knowledgeable staff over automated systems. In this view, AI’s best role in luxury is as a tool that enhances human-led experiences rather than replacing them.
Deal Time
eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Omega DeVille, a Vintage JDM Seiko Diver, and a Funky Hamilton Chronograph
This Deals roundup highlights a mix of distinctive vintage picks currently available on eBay, spanning everything from classic dressy pieces to bolder, design-forward chronographs. Standouts include an Omega Seamaster DeVille with a classic look and historical appeal, plus a rare JDM Seiko 6306-7001 diver that’s differentiated from the more common 6309 by its Japan-market details. The selection also calls out more unconventional shapes and aesthetics, like the Hamilton Chrono-Matic Fontainebleau (noted as needing service) and the asymmetrical Zodiac Olympos “mystery dial” style. Overall, it’s positioned as an opportunity for collectors to snag characterful watches from multiple eras, with condition notes to help buyers weigh value versus restoration needs.
Watching Time - Videos
20 Microbrand Watches I’d Buy RIGHT NOW - YouTube - Jag’s Watches
This video highlights 20 microbrand watches the creator would buy right now, focusing on what makes each pick stand out in today’s crowded market. The selections emphasize distinctive design, enthusiast-friendly features, and the sense of individuality microbrands often deliver. It also frames microbrands as a strong value proposition, frequently offering craftsmanship and creativity at prices that undercut mainstream luxury. Overall, it’s positioned as a practical shortlist for anyone looking to explore smaller brands with character.
How Cartier Quietly Took Over the Watch Industry - YouTube - Britt Pearce
This video breaks down how Cartier built outsized influence in watchmaking through a mix of heritage, design consistency, and smart positioning in luxury. It traces the brand’s ability to appeal to both traditional collectors and newer consumers by balancing classic icons with a modern, fashion-forward presence. Key milestones are used to show how Cartier strengthened its narrative of sophistication and exclusivity over time. The overall argument is that Cartier’s dominance wasn’t sudden—it was the result of long-term strategic execution.
How Tudor Watches Are ACTUALLY Made - YouTube - Teddy Baldassarre
This behind-the-scenes video walks through how Tudor watches are produced, from early design considerations through manufacturing and final assembly. It focuses on the craftsmanship and process discipline required to deliver consistency at scale, highlighting the human skill involved at each stage. The episode also looks at how Tudor blends traditional watchmaking methods with modern materials and production technology to maintain quality and performance. The result is an accessible tour of what goes into making a Tudor beyond the finished product.
Rolex in 2026: The Crash, the Chaos, and What It Means - YouTube - The Watch Bros
This video discusses the turbulence in the luxury watch market through the lens of Rolex, focusing on shifting prices, demand changes, and broader economic pressures. It lays out how market swings impact both collectors and everyday buyers, especially those who entered during peak hype cycles. The analysis connects Rolex’s movement to wider industry dynamics, suggesting the chaos could reshape how luxury watches are valued and perceived. It’s framed as a snapshot of a market recalibrating in real time.
Rolex Perditions 2026 - NEW 42mm GMT - YouTube - Brendan Boswell
This video spotlights a purported new Rolex 42mm GMT release, focusing on what’s notable about the model’s design and functional updates. It’s presented as a detailed overview meant for enthusiasts who want a quick but comprehensive rundown of the watch’s key specifications and changes versus prior GMT iterations. The commentary is positioned to build anticipation by highlighting the elements that could make the release significant for collectors. Overall, it aims to be a “first look” style briefing on the new GMT concept.
See Tim Mosso’s Three Watch Collection - YouTube - The 1916 Company
Tim Mosso walks through a personal three-watch collection, explaining what each piece contributes in terms of history, design, and practical wear. The video pairs strong visuals with detailed commentary, using the three watches as a way to talk about broader collecting philosophy and what makes a collection feel complete. Mosso’s perspective emphasizes craftsmanship and the stories embedded in each timepiece rather than pure hype or resale value. It’s structured as both entertainment and a learning-friendly overview for collectors at any level.
Swiss Watches Are COOKED (+More) - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands
This video argues that parts of the Swiss watch industry are under real pressure, pointing to factors like market saturation, shifting buyer priorities, and competition from smartwatches. It frames these headwinds as forces that challenge traditional brand playbooks and pricing structures. Alongside the critique, it suggests the disruption could push brands toward clearer differentiation and more meaningful innovation. The episode is positioned as a big-picture take on where Swiss watchmaking may be headed next.
The watch brands that have gotten worse - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
This video discusses watch brands the creator believes have declined over time, looking at how changes in design direction, production choices, and brand strategy can erode enthusiast trust. It connects these shifts to disappointment among collectors who value heritage, consistency, and perceived quality. The commentary invites viewers to think about how brand identity is built—and how quickly it can be weakened when decisions feel disconnected from what made the brand desirable. Overall, it’s a critical overview of brand trajectories in the modern market.
Why Rolex’s Next Release Will Be “Boring” (And Why That’s Smart) 📉 - YouTube - Theo and Harris
This video argues that a “boring” Rolex release may be intentional strategy rather than creative failure, using restraint as a way to protect the brand’s timeless image. It suggests that subtle evolution helps Rolex avoid the boom-and-bust cycle of expectation that can follow more radical launches. The commentary frames consistency and refinement as part of Rolex’s long-term value proposition, appealing to buyers who prefer stability over novelty. The central takeaway is that understatement can be a competitive advantage in luxury.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #761 : All About The Glasgow Watch Show 2026 - Scottish Watches
This episode previews the return of the Glasgow Watch Show in 2026, set to take place at Hampden Park. It runs through the expanding roster of exhibitors, mixing established names with independents and microbrands, and highlights the appeal of seeing rare pieces in person. The discussion frames the show as an accessible, high-energy gathering fueled by the Scottish watch community, with affordable tickets and plenty to discover. Overall, it’s positioned as a practical “what to expect” listen ahead of the May event.
SJX Podcast: State of the Industry 2026
This episode breaks down recent market reports (including Vontobel and EveryWatch) to explain what’s happening in both the primary and secondary watch markets. It discusses K-shaped dynamics, why certain independents (notably F.P. Journe) stand out, and how Cartier continues to perform across multiple price tiers. The conversation also explores the emotional drivers behind buying decisions and the growing “financialization” of collecting. It ultimately suggests that while market reports can be illuminating, they don’t always translate cleanly into actionable guidance for individual collectors.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee - Limited to 350 Pieces (6041.7.01.008.10.5) - was bid to $5,775 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 Titanium / Platinum / Slate Gray (26331IP.OO.1220IP.01)
Auction Report: Titanium Muscle, Platinum Flash: The Royal Oak Chronograph That Quietly Flexes
When Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331 series at SIHH in 2017, it marked a major refresh of the brand’s modern chronograph lineup—coming roughly two decades after the original Royal Oak Chronograph debuted. Among the variations released that year, the titanium-and-platinum reference 26331IP.OO.1220IP.01 quickly became one of the most interesting combinations in the catalog: a watch that looks understated at a glance but quietly carries a lot of precious metal weight.
The formula is clever. The 41mm case is crafted primarily from lightweight titanium, but the bezel and several bracelet links are made from polished 950 platinum. The result is a watch that wears comfortably while still delivering the visual punch of platinum whenever the light hits that iconic octagonal bezel. Pair that with a slate gray “Grande Tapisserie” dial and contrasting chronograph counters and you have a piece that feels both technical and luxurious—the exact sort of aesthetic balance Audemars Piguet has been refining since the Royal Oak first rewrote the rules of luxury sports watches in 1972.
Inside the watch sits the automatic caliber 2385, a proven chronograph movement with about a 40-hour power reserve and the familiar tri-compax chronograph layout. It’s not the newest movement in the brand’s stable, but it has long been appreciated for its reliability and slim profile, helping the watch maintain the sleek proportions that collectors expect from the Royal Oak Chronograph family.
This particular titanium-and-platinum configuration was produced for only a relatively short period beginning around 2017 and has become something of a sleeper favorite among Royal Oak collectors. Some examples have been described as limited to around 500 pieces, which only adds to the appeal for buyers looking for something slightly rarer than the standard steel chronograph.
On the secondary market the reference has held up well. Recent listings hover around the high-$60,000 to low-$70,000 range, with notable auction sales reaching roughly $78,000 depending on condition and completeness of the set. Over the past several years, the model has outperformed the average Audemars Piguet watch in terms of price appreciation, climbing more than 40% over five years in some tracking indexes.
That context matters when evaluating the watch currently heading to auction. This example lacks both box and papers, which will almost certainly shave a meaningful amount off the hammer price. Collectors at this level tend to like their Royal Oaks complete, and when you’re spending north of $60,000 on a watch, the cardboard and booklets suddenly start looking pretty important.
Condition, however, appears solid. The dial, hands, and crystal are reported as excellent, while the titanium case and bracelet show the usual light wear you’d expect from a sports watch that was actually worn. Given how easily the sharp facets of a Royal Oak can reveal over-polishing, honest wear is often preferable to an over-restored example.
All of which sets up an interesting auction dynamic when bidding closes at 5:20 p.m. EDT on Monday, March 16. Without the box and papers, this piece may trade at a noticeable discount to the typical dealer listings floating around the $70,000 mark. But the reference itself—combining titanium practicality with platinum swagger—remains one of the more intriguing Royal Oak chronographs of the modern era.
For the right buyer, this might be the kind of Royal Oak that quietly slips onto the wrist and then refuses to leave. And in the world of Audemars Piguet, that’s usually when the real collecting begins.
— Michael Wolf
Current bid: $40,500