BuyingTime Daily - March 13, 2026
Rolex “Pepsi” GMT prices surge toward $30K as rumors swirl. Plus TAG Heuer’s new CEO, Grand Seiko signs Ohtani, fresh releases from Breitling, Serica and more.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world is waking up this morning with a familiar story: scarcity, speculation, and a healthy dose of rumor swirling around Rolex. Reports that the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” may have been discontinued are pushing secondary-market pricing toward the $30,000 mark, with some listings stretching even higher as dealers lean heavily into the certified pre-owned narrative. Whether the discontinuation proves real or simply a supply hiccup remains unclear, but the reaction illustrates the peculiar gravity that certain Rolex references exert on collectors. The Pepsi’s lineage stretches back to the original 1955 GMT-Master built for Pan Am pilots, and the modern ceramic-bezel revival launched in 2018 has spent most of its life living on waiting lists. If the taps have truly been turned off, expect the speculative machine to run at full speed for a while.
Meanwhile, TAG Heuer reshuffled the executive deck by naming Béatrice Goasglas as its new CEO, effective May 1. Goasglas has been deeply involved in the brand’s digital strategy and the Connected smartwatch program since joining in 2018, and her promotion suggests that the LVMH brand intends to double down on modern retail dynamics—particularly e-commerce and data-driven client relationships. The move arrives at a time when luxury brands increasingly need both heritage and digital fluency to stay competitive, and TAG Heuer appears to be leaning into that reality rather than resisting it.
On the ambassador front, Grand Seiko scored a high-profile global partnership with baseball phenomenon Shohei Ohtani, who officially joins the brand on April 1. The two-way superstar—pitcher and hitter—embodies the sort of precision and discipline that Grand Seiko loves to align itself with, but the significance here is geographic as much as symbolic. Historically, the brand relied heavily on regional ambassadors in Asia, but Ohtani’s global fame gives Grand Seiko a far broader platform, particularly in North America where the brand continues to push for stronger recognition among collectors.
Retail expansion remains alive and well too, with Omega opening a new boutique in Austin’s Domain Northside following five consecutive years of record sales. The launch event featured actor Glen Powell, an Austin native and brand ambassador, and underscores how aggressively Omega continues to invest in U.S. retail presence. Austin has quietly become a strong luxury-watch market as tech wealth spreads beyond traditional coastal cities, and the boutique’s moon-landing-inspired interior design reminds visitors that Omega still plans to lean heavily on its storytelling heritage.
Not every brand is riding the same wave, however. Fossil Group reported a break-even fourth quarter for 2025 after an 18% sales decline year-over-year. That might sound modest, but for a company that was flirting with serious financial trouble only months ago, stabilization itself counts as progress. A restructuring of $150 million in unsecured debt helped prevent a potential Chapter 11 scenario, and management says the turnaround strategy will focus on tightening costs and concentrating on its core brands. Whether that translates into sustained growth remains an open question, but at least the ship has stopped taking on water.
The industry also paused to remember Philipp Wolf IV, longtime leader of the luxury accessories company WOLF, who passed away at 89. Wolf spent decades expanding the brand internationally after joining the family business in 1958 and helped establish it as one of the best-known names in watch winders and storage systems. His leadership helped connect the accessory world to the watch industry itself, making WOLF boxes and winders a familiar sight in collectors’ homes around the globe.
Collectors following the independent scene have a new auction to watch as well. Marteau & Co launched “The Echo,” an online-only sale dedicated to independent watchmaking, running March 12 through March 19. The concept introduces a “Maker’s Fee,” which gives the original watchmaker a share of the hammer price—an unusual move that effectively brings resale royalties into the watch world. With pieces ranging from Daniel Roth chronographs to technical creations from F. P. Journe, the sale reflects a growing awareness that independent watchmakers deserve a stronger financial stake in the secondary market built around their work.
Elsewhere, a feature on the Swiss village of Sainte-Croix reminds readers that mechanical art—automata, music boxes, and other intricate machines—remains a living tradition rather than a museum curiosity. Educational programs and modern tools like 3D printing are helping the next generation carry forward the craft, proving that the Jura region’s reputation for delicate mechanics extends well beyond wristwatches. And in Helsinki, independent watchmaker Juha Eskola is emerging as another name to watch after debuting his N1, a moonphase watch built with a German-silver three-quarter plate and a clear devotion to traditional finishing.
New releases provided plenty to browse as well. Breitling introduced a reverse-panda version of the Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42, pairing vintage cues with a modern in-house chronograph movement and 70 hours of power reserve. Farer went in the opposite direction, expanding its cushion-case lineup with compact 35mm watches in bold raspberry and teal dial colors powered by a manual-wind Sellita movement. Fortis reinforced its tool-watch credentials with an updated Marine Master M44 featuring a DLC-coated case, 500 meters of water resistance, and a Kenissi movement inside. Girard-Perregaux moved into the realm of haute horlogerie with its new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, a pink-gold skeletonized watch combining a tourbillon and minute repeater around the brand’s floating bridge architecture. Meanwhile, Hamilton introduced the Jazzmaster Quartz Octet series—eight accessible everyday watches in multiple dial colors—and Serica debuted the 5330 Dive Chronometer, the brand’s first model to add a date window while maintaining its understated vintage diver aesthetic.
Hands-on reviews highlighted some serious mechanical artistry. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton showcased the reborn brand’s focus on elegant skeletonization and meticulous finishing, while the Louis Erard Astro Boy collaboration proved that playful pop-culture design can still coexist with serious Swiss mechanics. At the extreme end of the spectrum, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication demonstrated what happens when watchmakers decide subtlety is overrated, combining a flying tourbillon, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar into one spectacularly complex package.
For those hunting the mythical “one-watch collection,” a comparison piece examined everything from humble Casio classics to icons like the Rolex Submariner, arguing that durability, legibility, and versatility ultimately matter more than brand prestige. An accompanying opinion essay suggested that the next real innovation in watchmaking may come not from new complications but from a renewed appreciation of traditional craft—symbolized by something as simple as a paintbrush in a watchmaker’s hand.
The events calendar also remains busy. British Watchmakers’ Day drew a packed crowd earlier this month, reinforcing the momentum behind the UK’s independent watch scene. Meanwhile, Geneva’s Time to Watches Village returns in April with more than 85 brands and a social-first format designed to encourage conversation rather than just product launches.
On the video front, there is plenty to queue up tonight: Fratello’s roundtable on the microbrands worth watching in 2026, The 1916 Company’s predictions for Watches & Wonders, Subdial’s exploration of rule-breaking watch designs, and a grail-level tour of rare Audemars Piguet pieces from the Zero to Sixty channel. Swiss Watch Gang dives into the mechanics of sourcing ultra-rare pieces from brands like F. P. Journe, while Chisholm Hunter counts down ten sports watches they can’t stop thinking about. For the data-minded crowd, WATCHES TV breaks down the latest Morgan Stanley industry report.
Finally, a quick note from the auction desk. Yesterday’s Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase topped out at $3,013 but failed to meet its reserve, suggesting there may still be room for a private offer. Meanwhile, attention shifts to the current Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee Limited Edition—an unworn 2024 example with a current bid of $3,700 and an auction closing tomorrow afternoon. For fans of automotive-inspired chronographs and stealth-black design, that one could get interesting before the hammer falls.
All in all, the watch universe continues its usual rhythm: rumors pushing steel sports watches skyward, independents experimenting with new auction models, and brands from Breitling to Serica filling the pipeline with fresh releases. As always, the real challenge isn’t finding something interesting—it’s deciding which watch story you’re going to obsess over first tonight.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex GMT Pepsi prices could hit $30,000
Secondary-market prices for the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” are climbing toward $30,000 amid reports that the model has been discontinued, with some listings far higher than that benchmark. Dealers are also leaning into premium pricing for certified pre-owned examples, adding warranties that further shape buyer expectations. While Rolex has not publicly confirmed the discontinuation, reported delivery stoppages are pushing waitlisted customers to consider alternatives, fueling demand and scarcity-driven pricing. The story also highlights the model’s long lineage from the original 1955 GMT-Master and the modern version’s 2018 relaunch with upgraded materials and performance.
TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO
TAG Heuer has appointed Béatrice Goasglas as CEO starting May 1, 2026, following an unexpected leadership departure earlier this year. Goasglas, currently president of the Americas, rose through roles focused on digital marketing and client experience after joining the brand in 2018. Her background includes major involvement in TAG Heuer’s Connected smartwatch efforts, signaling continuity with the brand’s push into modern consumer behavior. The appointment points to a strategy centered on stronger e-commerce, sharper client relationships, and staying competitive in a luxury market that increasingly rewards digital fluency.
Shohei Ohtani Joins Grand Seiko As A Global Ambassador
Shohei Ohtani has been named a global ambassador for Grand Seiko effective April 1, aligning with a major moment in his career as he leads Japan in the World Baseball Classic and heads into the MLB season with the Dodgers. The partnership underscores his rare two-way dominance as both pitcher and hitter, along with a run of top-tier accolades and championships. For Grand Seiko, it signals a notable shift from primarily regional faces to a truly global sports star, aimed at expanding the brand’s international reach. Ohtani also emphasized his appreciation for the brand’s heritage, suggesting a values match that Grand Seiko can build on in future campaigns.
Omega builds on record year with new boutique in Austin
Omega is extending its momentum in the U.S. after five straight years of record sales, crediting strong launches and a wave of boutique openings. Its newest boutique in Austin’s Domain Northside is designed to keep that growth going, with a launch event featuring brand ambassador and Austin native Glen Powell alongside Omega U.S. leadership. The store leans into Omega’s signature retail design, including bright surfaces, red accents, and moon-landing-inspired artwork. The opening also reflects Austin’s growing luxury-watch retail scene, with other major jewelers investing in the market.
Fossil Group breaks even as turnaround plan gains traction - WATCHPRO USA
Fossil Group reported a break-even fourth quarter in 2025 after an 18% year-over-year sales decline, marking a meaningful stabilization after the company had been at risk of administration. A key move was restructuring $150 million in unsecured debt, which helped avoid a potential Chapter 11 filing. The quarter delivered a small operating profit, a sharp improvement from the prior year’s loss, even as broader regional sales challenges persisted. Management says the turnaround plan now centers on prioritizing core brands and tightening the cost structure to return to growth and strengthen long-term profitability.
Philipp Wolf, Fourth Generation Leader Of WOLF, Has Died
Philipp Wolf IV, longtime leader of luxury accessories company WOLF, has died at 89, closing a major chapter in the brand’s family-run history. After joining the business in 1958, he helped expand WOLF internationally and played a key role in building manufacturing capabilities and partnerships across jewelry and watch markets. Beyond business, he was known for an energetic personal life spanning aviation, music, and cycling, reflecting a larger-than-life presence. He is survived by his wife Judie, his son Simon (who leads the company), two daughters, and five grandchildren, with funeral arrangements still to come.
Feature Time
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Marteau & Co
Marteau & Co has launched The Echo, an online-only auction centered on independent watchmaking, following the success of its earlier sale, First Strike. A key novelty is the “Maker’s Fee,” which gives watchmakers a percentage of the hammer price—an uncommon, resale-rights-style approach in this corner of the industry. The catalog spans important independent names and styles, from historically significant pieces like the Daniel Roth Chronograph Ref. 2147 to technically ambitious watches like the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum. Running March 12–19, the auction positions itself as both a collector opportunity and a way to financially support the makers behind the work.
Sainte-Croix: The Beating Heart of Mechanical Art
Sainte-Croix, in the Jura region, is portrayed as a modern stronghold of mechanical art—especially automata—supported by institutions and community groups dedicated to keeping these skills alive. The article traces how the area’s legacy (watchmaking, music boxes, and precision craft) evolved into a broader “mechanical art” identity, with education and training designed to pass techniques to the next generation. It also shows how new tools like 3D printing are expanding what’s possible while preserving the charm and artistry that make automata compelling. Partnerships and interest from luxury maisons underscore that this craft isn’t just surviving—it’s becoming culturally and commercially relevant again.
Portrait: Juha Eskola, The Latest Indie Discovery From Finland
Juha Eskola is a Helsinki-based independent watchmaker creating small-run, highly personal watches that foreground craft, proportion, and aesthetic balance. His path into watchmaking started early, intensified after encountering an automatic watch, and ultimately led him through formal training at the Finnish School of Watchmaking. The piece highlights his debut N1—featuring a moonphase and a German-silver three-quarter plate bridge—as a statement of intent to build meaningful work under his own name. It also notes a collaborative working environment with other watchmakers and his ambition to keep developing new models while supporting future talent.
The Latest Time
Breitling
Breitling Introduces The Stylish Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42
Breitling’s new Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42 channels the look of the 1957 SuperOcean ref. 807 while delivering modern spec and finishing. The watch pairs a black dial with two silver sub-dials in a 42mm steel case, topped with a black ceramic bezel, and it’s rated to 200 meters. Inside is the in-house B01 automatic chronograph, offering a 70-hour power reserve in a clean two-register layout that keeps the design legible and purpose-built. Price: about $10,700 on rubber or $11,100 on mesh bracelet.
Farer
The New Farer Cushion Case Watches Make a Case for 35mm
Farer expands its Cushion Case line with two new 35mm models—Furneaux and Belzoni—using a more dramatic scaled-down case profile than the prior 38.5mm versions. Both feature distinctive gradient-textured dials, with the Furneaux in raspberry pink and the Belzoni in teal, aiming squarely at a compact dress-watch feel with bold color. Power comes from a Sellita SW210-1 b Elaboré movement, shown through an exhibition caseback and backed by a stated 45-hour power reserve. Price: $1,165.
Fortis
Fortis Marine Master M44
Fortis updates the Marine Master M44 with a new DLC coating for a tougher, more monochrome look, while keeping the line’s serious tool-watch intent. The watch is engineered for extreme use with 500 meters of water resistance and is paired with a textured FKM rubber strap for durability and comfort. Two dial variants differentiate the vibe—one leaning vintage with beige accents, the other more modern with polished steel details—without changing the core architecture. The watches are powered by a Kenissi automatic caliber with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification.
Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House
Girard-Perregaux’s Minute Repeater Flying Bridges showcases the new in-house GP9530, combining a minute repeater and tourbillon in a highly openworked, “floating” style presentation. Set in a 44mm pink gold case, the skeletonized architecture is designed to put the mechanics front and center while maintaining a cohesive, mostly monochrome palette against the warm metal. The piece signals the brand’s renewed emphasis on serious complications and fine finishing, including extensive hand work and elaborate beveling across the movement components. It delivers a 60-hour power reserve and 30 meters of water resistance, blending traditional complication-making with a modern visual language.
Hamilton
Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four
Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Quartz Octet launches as an eight-watch range offered in 40mm and 32mm sizes with six dial colors, aiming for an everyday dress-watch look with straightforward quartz practicality. The watches emphasize clean lines and contemporary finishing, pairing sunray-brushed dials with a steel case and a three-row bracelet. Details like dauphine-style hands and 50 meters of water resistance keep the formula versatile for daily wear rather than purely formal use. Price: about $510.
Serica
Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer — The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window
Serica’s new 5330 Dive Chronometer adds a date window for the first time, while keeping the brand’s familiar 39mm case profile and restrained, vintage-leaning dive aesthetic. The update includes a dark gray ceramic bezel and a matte black dial, with the date positioned at 3 o’clock in an eggshell-toned frame with red numerals to maintain legibility. Inside is the COSC-certified Soprod M100 automatic movement, paired with a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch is designed to wear especially well on the brand’s mesh bracelet. Price: about $1,990.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Daniel Roth
Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton signals a fresh start for the relaunched brand, leaning into a pared-back, elegant design while showing off a fully skeletonized architecture. A standout detail is the 18k rose gold movement, which provides a rich visual contrast and emphasizes the craftsmanship throughout. It runs at 4Hz, delivers a 65-hour power reserve, and includes a power reserve indicator for practical day-to-day usability despite the showpiece construction. Positioned as a limited-production high-horology watch, it carries a price of CHF 85,000 and is aimed squarely at collectors who value finishing and mechanical artistry.
Louis Erard
Louis Erard 2340 X Astro Boy Watch Hands-On: A Refined Pop Art Character Dial
This Louis Erard 2340 collaboration with Tezuka Productions uses Astro Boy as the centerpiece of a layered, character-driven dial that blends pop art fun with real watchmaking intent. The design keeps the figure visually dominant while using muted background elements so the watch remains readable and wearable, not just novelty. Housed in a 40mm case mixing steel and titanium, it’s powered by a Swiss automatic movement with a 56-hour power reserve, targeting casual versatility with a distinctive look. Limited to 178 pieces, it’s priced at CHF 3,990 and offers a different, more expressive alternative within the 2340 line.
Roger Dubuis
Hands-On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Bi-Retrograde Watch
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication is built around an extreme “everything at once” approach, combining a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar with a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater. Its display is arranged to emphasize drama and legibility, pairing retrograde indications for date and day with a bold blue aesthetic and a strong wrist presence. The RD118 caliber is highly complex—684 components—and its finishing is underscored by the Geneva Seal, framing the watch as a true grand complication rather than a styling exercise. With a 45mm case and substantial thickness, it’s an unapologetically statement-making piece priced at $691,000.
Comparing Time
11 Ultimate One Watch Collection Candidates: Top Picks After Testing
This piece looks at what makes a true “one-watch collection” work in real life: practicality, comfort, reliability, and the ability to handle a wide range of daily situations. It compares watches across a broad spectrum—from inexpensive, no-nonsense options like classic Casios to higher-end icons like the Rolex Submariner—through the lens of long-term wearability. Specific picks are evaluated for traits like durability, water resistance, legibility, and ease of use, arguing that these functional details matter as much as brand or prestige. The takeaway is a shortlist of versatile watches that can realistically become an everyday default while still matching personal style.
Opinion Time
Essays: Could The Most Radical Innovation In Watchmaking For 2026 Be A Paintbrush?
This essay argues that the most meaningful “innovation” in watchmaking might come from subtracting complexity rather than adding it, using the humble single-bristle paintbrush as a symbol of craft-first progress. It suggests that the industry’s fixation on incremental technical advances can eclipse the emotional pull and artistry of handmade processes. With fewer artisans entering the trade, the piece frames traditional skills as increasingly fragile—but also points to independent watchmakers and new training efforts as reasons for optimism. The conclusion is a call to balance technology with renewed respect for patience, mastery, and the human stories embedded in watchmaking.
Event Time
Gallery: British Watchmakers’ Day 2026
The third annual British Watchmaker’s Day took place on March 7, 2026, drawing a packed crowd of brands and enthusiasts and reinforcing the momentum behind the British independent watch scene. The write-up emphasizes the event’s personality and collaborative spirit, along with the appeal of event-specific limited editions and the excitement of seeing standout watches in one place. A large photo gallery captures the highlights and the energy of the day, underscoring that the community aspect is as much the point as the products. The piece frames the fair as a yearly anchor for collectors and media who keep coming back for the mix of craftsmanship and camaraderie.
The Time to Watches Village
Time to Watches returns for its fifth edition during Geneva Watch Week in April 2026 at Villa Sarasin, expanding into a network of spaces meant to feel more fluid and curated. With more than 85 exhibiting brands, the focus is on independent watchmaking, approachable luxury, and creating an environment that encourages genuine conversation rather than just product launches. Beyond the watches, the event leans into social programming—breakfasts, an opening night show, and informal interactions among journalists, influencers, and enthusiasts. Its central social hub, the Garden, is positioned as the heart of the experience, and the organizers also plan to extend the concept with a U.S. edition in Las Vegas in May.
Watching Time - Videos
Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 - YouTube - Fratello
This episode of Fratello Talks surveys microbrands that could be worth watching in 2026, focusing on what makes smaller makers compelling in a crowded market. The discussion highlights how microbrands often prioritize distinctive design, focused craftsmanship, and strong brand narratives over mass-market scale. It frames these companies as potential disruptors that can capture collector attention through originality and tight product execution. Overall, it’s positioned as a trend-and-discovery watch for anyone tracking the next wave of interesting independents.
Watches & Wonders 2026: Our Predictions (and Wishes) - YouTube - The 1916 Company
This video looks ahead to Watches & Wonders 2026 with predictions, wish lists, and broader expectations for where the industry might go next. It uses the upcoming show as a springboard to discuss potential releases, tech developments, and design directions that could shape the year’s conversation. The tone is forward-looking and community-driven, encouraging viewers to compare their own takes with the presenters’ forecasts. It’s essentially a pre-show roadmap for what to pay attention to as the event approaches.
Watches That Break The Rules | Drop #268 - YouTube - Subdial
Drop #268 spotlights watches that intentionally reject traditional norms, centering on unconventional design choices and unusual mechanical or material approaches. It frames “rule-breaking” as both an aesthetic stance and an engineering opportunity, where modern techniques can enable shapes, layouts, and concepts that older constraints discouraged. The video balances visual exploration with commentary on why these pieces matter in an industry that often leans conservative. It’s aimed at viewers who enjoy the more experimental edge of contemporary watchmaking.
ON TIME: Collector Shows Rarest Audemars Piguet Watches Ever Made - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
This video showcases a collector’s selection of exceptionally rare Audemars Piguet watches, emphasizing both the craftsmanship and the exclusivity that drive collector fascination. It focuses on what makes these pieces special—design execution, mechanical details, and the historical context that elevates certain references into legend status. The presentation also leans into storytelling, using each watch as a way to illustrate AP’s broader legacy in high-end horology. It’s designed as an educational deep dive as much as a visual tour of grail-level collecting.
How To Find & Sell The Rarest Watches In The World - F.P. Journe, Berneron, Simon Brette & More! - YouTube - Swiss Watch Gang
This video is a practical explainer on navigating the ultra-rare end of the watch market, using brands like F.P. Journe, Berneron, and Simon Brette as examples. It covers how scarcity is created and recognized, and what collectors should look for when sourcing and evaluating genuinely rare pieces. A major theme is the business side—market dynamics, provenance, and the network/knowledge required to buy and sell effectively. It’s positioned as a strategy-focused watch for collectors who want to understand how the top tier of the market functions.
Top 10 Sports Watches I’m OBSESSED With - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
This video presents a top-10 list of sports watches, focusing on what makes each pick appealing from both a functionality and style standpoint. It emphasizes versatility—watches that can handle active use while still looking good as everyday wear. The structure is fast-moving and list-driven, with each selection framed around standout features and overall design appeal. It’s intended as a watchable roundup for anyone shopping or browsing for modern sporty options.
STATE OF THE INDUSTRY - Morgan Stanley Report - Part 2 - YouTube - WATCHES TV
This video summarizes and discusses key themes from a Morgan Stanley “state of the industry” report, focusing on trends and metrics shaping the current watch market landscape. It’s structured to translate a research-style overview into a more accessible, watchable format, emphasizing what the data suggests about where the industry is heading. The content is more macro than product-specific, aimed at viewers interested in market dynamics rather than individual releases. Overall, it serves as a high-level briefing for enthusiasts and investors who want context for the broader business environment.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #760 : British Watchmakers Day 2026 - What Happened - Scottish Watches
Episode #760 recaps British Watchmakers’ Day 2026, highlighting how the third edition has grown in scale and polish while continuing to celebrate modern UK horology. The discussion walks through standout moments from the event, including the atmosphere on the floor, notable brands, and the excitement around new releases. It also frames the show as a key gathering point for independent makers, collectors, and enthusiasts, reflecting the broader resurgence of British watchmaking. Insights from Katya of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, plus interviews with brands like Fears and Studio Underdog, add depth to the on-the-ground coverage.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase 38 Steel / Sunray brushed Anthracite Metal / Strap - Limited to 500 Pieces (37.05 Series 2) - was bid to just $3,013 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee - Limited to 350 Pieces (6041.7.01.008.10.5)
Auction Report: The Coolest Car-Guy Chronograph You Probably Won’t See Twice
The 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee is one of those watches that knows exactly what it is and, more importantly, refuses to apologize for it. This is not a flashy collaboration in the modern limited-edition sense, with loud colors, gimmicky packaging, or some tortured backstory about “community.” It is a blacked-out, instrument-panel chronograph built around one of the most durable design ideas in modern watchmaking: the original 1972 Porsche Design Chronograph 1, the watch that helped define the all-black tool-watch genre in the first place. That original watch was designed by F. A. Porsche, took its visual cues from automotive gauges, and was sold through Porsche dealerships after its early success. The Hodinkee edition keeps that lineage front and center, while updating the package with a titanium case and bracelet, matte-black titanium-carbide coating, a COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.140 automatic chronograph movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and a 48-hour power reserve. It was produced in a run of 350 pieces and launched at $9,650.
That history matters because this watch is not merely “inspired by” an old favorite. It is consciously trying to answer a very specific question: what would the Chronograph 1 look like if it were executed today without ruining the original idea? The answer, thankfully, is that Porsche Design and Hodinkee did not get cute. The watch keeps the unmistakable 6-9-12 subdial layout, the dashboard-born legibility, the stealthy case profile, and the hard-edged functionalism that made the original such a cult piece. Even the details are unusually disciplined. The rehaut includes the old “1 Mile” marking, the dial carries only a subtle nod to Hodinkee, and the closed caseback gets the limited-edition numbering and collaboration engraving rather than a view of the movement. In other words, this thing behaves like a proper tool watch, even though most of its buyers are probably timing absolutely nothing more dangerous than an espresso shot or a Porsche club brunch.
From a collector’s standpoint, the appeal is easy to understand. You have a limited run of 350 pieces, a collaboration partner with a built-in enthusiast audience, a famous industrial design lineage, and a case-and-bracelet execution that feels much more serious than the average media-collab special edition. The titanium construction also helps. At roughly 41mm, the watch has real presence, but the material and finish keep it from feeling like a cinder block on the wrist. And unlike so many modern black watches that look menacing in product photography and vaguely silly in person, the Chronograph 1 still works because the underlying design was born from pure legibility and function. That is the secret sauce here. The darkness is not fashion first. It is history first.
As for value, the market appears reasonably healthy but not delirious, which may actually be the good news. Retail was $9,650, and current secondary asking prices that surfaced publicly are clustering below that, with examples around $8,060 to $8,611, while at least one recent Bezel auction listing for the same reference went unsold. That suggests this is not some instant-flip rocket ship, but rather a narrower enthusiast watch whose buyer pool is made up of people who specifically understand the Porsche Design story, appreciate the Hodinkee tie-in, and want this exact expression of the Chronograph 1. In practical terms, that means the watch has become attainable on the secondary market without collapsing into bargain-bin territory.
That makes this particular auction lot interesting. An unworn 2024 example with box, papers, and product literature is about as clean a version of the proposition as you could want. If someone missed the original drop and still wants the watch as intended, this is the kind of lot that removes a lot of the usual friction. No condition drama, no incomplete set, no “light wear consistent with ownership” euphemisms doing heroic labor. It is the full package, and in a watch like this, completeness matters because the appeal is tied as much to the limited-edition narrative as it is to the hardware itself.
My view is that the sweet spot here is below retail but not dramatically below it. Once you get into the low $8,000s, the watch begins to look pretty compelling for a buyer who wants a genuinely distinctive modern chronograph with real design credibility. Push too close to original retail and the equation gets tougher, simply because this is still a very specific taste and not the kind of universally liquid sports watch that bails you out later. But at the right number, it is a sharp buy: historically grounded, visually coherent, and uncommon enough to stay interesting long after the latest hot collab has gone cold.
With the auction ending at 4:40 p.m. EDT on Saturday, March 14, 2026, this feels like one to watch less for speculative fireworks and more for a sanity check on where the market currently values thoughtful modern limited editions. My guess is that the winning bidder will not be buying it because they think it is the next frenzy watch. They will be buying it because they get it. And in this corner of the watch world, that is usually a better reason.
Current bid: $3,700